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SL the Pyro posted:Well, my computer has arrived and is all assembled... but there's a problem; my ASRock z87 Extreme4 motherboard's PCI slots aren't working right. Some testing with the graphics card and the network card has determined that everything is plugged in right, they're even receiving power from the slots (i.e.: even with the back power connectors on the GPU plugged in, its fans won't spin unless the GPU itself plugged into the PCI). It's all in the right spot, the motherboard just... doesn't realize anything is there. The UEFI system browser says that the slots are even Empty. Meanwhile, everything else works perfectly. That's crazy. What do you have in your slots that isn't being recognized?
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# ? Apr 8, 2014 22:57 |
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# ? Jun 8, 2024 06:46 |
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SL the Pyro posted:Well, my computer has arrived and is all assembled... but there's a problem; my ASRock z87 Extreme4 motherboard's PCI slots aren't working right. Some testing with the graphics card and the network card has determined that everything is plugged in right, they're even receiving power from the slots (i.e.: even with the back power connectors on the GPU plugged in, its fans won't spin unless the GPU itself plugged into the PCI). It's all in the right spot, the motherboard just... doesn't realize anything is there. The UEFI system browser says that the slots are even Empty. Meanwhile, everything else works perfectly. Can you take a picture of your setup?
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# ? Apr 9, 2014 00:02 |
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ShaneB posted:That's crazy. What do you have in your slots that isn't being recognized? I yelled at ASRock tech support, and they believe it may be a defective board and that I'll need to replace it. Which if true really sucks. EDIT: Pictures are incoming, give me a moment. SL the Pyro fucked around with this message at 00:15 on Apr 9, 2014 |
# ? Apr 9, 2014 00:04 |
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SL the Pyro posted:The graphics card and the network card. I've tried plugging them into the other slots and was met with the same result. And I know it's not a driver issue because the GPU drivers refuse to install until the card is actually detected, and I installed the network card drivers and it still isn't recognized. The motherboard itself just isn't noticing them even though it supplies power to them from the PCI slots. Ughhhh
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# ? Apr 9, 2014 00:07 |
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My cable management may be poo poo, but I at least made sure everything was plugged in where it was supposed to be. The PS cables even came with labels on the ends. (The network card is the flat thing between the GPU and the Radiator.) You can't see it for the power cords, but the GPU's LEDs are both on and both green. I didn't hear a click on this thing, but I'm 100% sure I pushed it in the right way, and it won't go any further. This one did click. SL the Pyro fucked around with this message at 00:43 on Apr 9, 2014 |
# ? Apr 9, 2014 00:32 |
There's good stuff on craigslist, people tend to move down greatly on complete computers (or not at all and be 130% of component price when new). I've gotten quite a bit on craigslist, but I've also NOT gotten a lot of it too. I like CL for electronics but you have to wade through an ocean of poo poo. If you stick it out I can promise you'll get a good deal though.
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# ? Apr 9, 2014 00:52 |
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I am thinking of buying this shellshocker deal at Newegg and putting a 750ti in it. http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboBundleDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.1609227 I have never built a computer before but have put in a network card before. Would this have everything I need for a decent gaming machine? I don't care about maxing out Skyrim. I mostly play Diablo 3 and FTL. Right now I am trying to make sure 750ti is compatible with it and wondering which version of the card is best to get? Thank you!
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# ? Apr 9, 2014 00:52 |
AMD cpu, so no, not a good idea.
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# ? Apr 9, 2014 00:54 |
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ToxicToast posted:I am thinking of buying this shellshocker deal at Newegg and putting a 750ti in it. http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboBundleDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.1609227 lovely no-name PSU built into the lovely case, bottom of the barrel FX CPU, and a Biostar motherboard. Also you'll have to shell out another $100 for Windows. At least you get 8GB of RAM! Either get this Pentium model or (preferably) this i3 instead. They both have Windows installed, so no worries there. Your motherboard is likely a dud, yeah. RMA that poo poo. Also you're supposed to feed your ATX/PCIe cables in the bottom hole Hace fucked around with this message at 01:09 on Apr 9, 2014 |
# ? Apr 9, 2014 01:02 |
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SL the Pyro posted:
I have the exact same case+psu by the looks of things. And what you've done there with those cables is a lazy atrocity.
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# ? Apr 9, 2014 01:46 |
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Hace posted:Your motherboard is likely a dud, yeah. RMA that poo poo. Welp, time to go harass NCIX... Hace posted:Also you're supposed to feed your ATX/PCIe cables in the bottom hole Serephina posted:I have the exact same case+psu by the looks of things. And what you've done there with those cables is a lazy atrocity.
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# ? Apr 9, 2014 02:04 |
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Looks like I won't recommend that motherboard again. Although I know that it's an isolated incident... it doesn't make me happy.
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# ? Apr 9, 2014 02:12 |
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Booley posted:My current motherboard is dieing (2 DIMM slots don't work, I'm getting consistent graphical glitches across multiple different video cards and now at least one SATA port is dead). I'm going to replace it, but I have a 3770k. As far as I can tell there's no performance gain going up to a 4670 or 4770, but I'm a bit unsure about purchasing a new motherboard for an outdated socket. Is socket 1150 going to be around long enough for it to make sense for me to buy a new processor and motherboard, or should I stick with the one I have? The rest of my sata ports just died, so this has moved from something I need to deal with sometime in the next week to something I'd like to deal with in the next day so I can get parts before the weekend. (also, due to an abysmal customer support issue I had with asus when I first bought my current motherboard I'd really prefer to not purchase from them again)
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# ? Apr 9, 2014 02:17 |
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DrAlexanderTobacco posted:Unless I've missed it in the (Excellent) OP, Logical Increments is a fantastic site to get a good idea of what components are in what price range, and what they'd go well with WRT other components. It's not really. It frequently tells you to do dumb things.
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# ? Apr 9, 2014 02:45 |
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ShaneB posted:Looks like I won't recommend that motherboard again. Although I know that it's an isolated incident... it doesn't make me happy. Dead boards can happen with any manufacturer, even ASUS.
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# ? Apr 9, 2014 02:48 |
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I just ordered this build I am excited for the items, but nervous to do the build. It will be my first, so time to watch some videos. THANK YOU to everyone who offered advice and took the time to answers questions.
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# ? Apr 9, 2014 02:52 |
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I really think you should get a B85-chipset at the very least, but that's just me I guess. This for example would be perfect: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D12OAVE/?tag=pcpapi-20 Hace fucked around with this message at 03:01 on Apr 9, 2014 |
# ? Apr 9, 2014 02:58 |
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novak posted:Can I get an opinion on my new build? The rig is going to be used only for gaming, not planning on overclocking. HDD + OS and eveverything else missing will be recycled from an older machine. Case is going to be a Fractal Design R4. There is no scenario where a gaming computer should have a Xeon processor in it. Those are for servers and workstations. Ocular posted:Hi guys, just wanted to say thank you for such a greatly informative thread. My current PC has finally thrown in the towel after a number of years, and lately I've been itching to upgrade. My current PC started shutting off randomly a few weeks ago, and the frequency of the shutdowns became much more common until it would stay on for maybe 2-3 hours before just shutting off completely. Most of the time after a shutdown it would not even POST for a while. Eventually I was able to have it boot up successfully, consistently, however it's now just locking up after 3-5 minutes in Windows, Safe mode, BIOS, whatever. Luckily, I've run into a good chunk of cash and have decided to take the plunge on a new build. This current PC is simply a nightmare at this point, and so far out of date. 1. You won't get any benefit from an i7, but getting a gtx 770 would let you go crazy and max out all the graphics settings on everything. 2. Either way, you don't need a 650w power supply, cut 100w out and get the G-550. 3. You also don't really need a mid tower case/full sized motherboard - there is no reason not to simply get an obsidian 350D (maybe add an extra 140mm front fan to get positive air pressure for keeping dust out, and lower temperatures since you're overclocking; if you're serious about overclocking then replace all the existing fans so that you have 3 Noctua or bitfenix spectre pro fans; 2 as intake and one as rear exhaust) or one of the quiet oriented cases if you want things as quiet as possible (but this will impact your ability to overclock.) Remember those ultra quiet insulated cases are only quiet if you focus on noise reduction throughout the PC - If you try and stick an overclocking build in one you end up with cpu coolers and graphics card coolers that have to work overtime to cope with the reduced airflow. 4. I strongly recommend not using an ancient 800gig hard drive. Just buy a WD red in whatever capacity suits you. 5. You won't be overclocking on the stock cooler. A hyper 212 evo is adequate for mild overclocking, but for anything else get a Noctua U14s, or a U12s if you have motherboard/case compatability issues with the biggger coolers. You can also get a decent mATX mobo that does everything you need it to. MSI Gamer branded stuff has those horrible Killer brand NICs though. I particularly like Asus, they have excellent bios software, and their boards tend to have lots of fan headers to plug in all your case fans (and they let you control them through software/bios).
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# ? Apr 9, 2014 03:05 |
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OnceIWasAnOstrich posted:I currently have a computer that is mostly ~3 years old with a nicely overclocked 2500k. I don't see much point to replacing the CPU considering all the other things that would need to be replaced and the minimal improvement over a 4.6ghz Sandy Bridge. I do have a 2gb 7850 that doesn't quite cut it for the 1440p monitors I am using. I am thinking about the options I have for replacing the graphics card. Remember that even a 770 falls into 'only just adequate' territory when talking about 1440p. If you can afford it, a 780 or R9-290 would be your ideal options, along with a new 550w psu.
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# ? Apr 9, 2014 03:08 |
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Hace posted:I really think you should get a B85-chipset at the very least, but that's just me I guess. That pushes me over budget, and I have to stop somewhere. I wanted to stay under $550, and with taxes it pushed me to $580. Is there a compelling enough reason to change the mobo?
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# ? Apr 9, 2014 03:11 |
The Lord Bude posted:There is no scenario where a gaming computer should have a Xeon processor in it. Those are for servers and workstations. There are still a few questions, however a xeon 1230 or 1240 v3 (etc) is just an i7 haswell with a few extras like ECC support, but no igpu. And it's cheaper. If you aren't going to overclock but need (or want..) hyperthreading it might be a better choice. A lot of motherboards support it, like that one. I actually haven't come across one that doesn't but I don't really look out for it either. But my concern would be more of does a person really need hyperthreading or not. It also uses (probably trivial) 5% less wattage, I'm guessing that accounts for the igpu Ignoarints fucked around with this message at 03:19 on Apr 9, 2014 |
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# ? Apr 9, 2014 03:12 |
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Doomsday Jesus posted:I just ordered this build Keep in mind that since there's no optical drive in that build, you're going to need to install Windows from an ISO image via a bootable USB drive. You can create a bootable USB drive using the Windows 7 USB/DVD tool: http://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msusa/html/pbPage.Help_Win7_usbdvd_dwnTool
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# ? Apr 9, 2014 03:14 |
Looking for some feedback on this build my friend wants to get. Main purpose will be capturing old VHS/Hi8/DV videos and editing them in PowerDirector. This will be paired with a Synology DS412+ filled with WD Reds. No gaming happening on this machine. They are probably going to buy everything from Amazon & Newegg. Might as well overclock this thing a bit as well. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($319.99 @ Newegg) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U12P SE2 54.4 CFM CPU Cooler ($62.98 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: Asus Z87-Pro (V Edition) ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($169.99 @ Newegg) Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($134.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 500GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($269.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 500GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($269.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 770 2GB Video Card ($339.99 @ NCIX US) Case: Corsair 500R Black ATX Mid Tower Case ($124.99 @ NCIX US) Power Supply: SeaSonic 660W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($161.01 @ Amazon) Optical Drive: LG WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($67.98 @ SuperBiiz) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 - 64-bit (OEM) (64-bit) ($99.98 @ OutletPC) Monitor: Asus PA248Q 24.1" Monitor ($294.99 @ NCIX US) Total: $2316.87
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# ? Apr 9, 2014 03:39 |
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teagone posted:Keep in mind that since there's no optical drive in that build, you're going to need to install Windows from an ISO image via a bootable USB drive. You can create a bootable USB drive using the Windows 7 USB/DVD tool: http://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msusa/html/pbPage.Help_Win7_usbdvd_dwnTool Does that work the same for Windows 8.1?
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# ? Apr 9, 2014 03:48 |
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Yeah it'll work with Windows 8. Also remember if you have a .edu email that you can still access, go for the student discount at $69.99.
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# ? Apr 9, 2014 03:56 |
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The Lord Bude posted:stuff Thanks for the tips! Much appreciated, going to re-evaluate those components now.
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# ? Apr 9, 2014 04:07 |
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I'm looking at getting a bog-standard "Goons will like this" build per the OP. It's more or less purely for gaming, and I'm starting from scratch, so I need to pick up a monitor too. I was leaning towards the Dell U2412M by default, but I'm wondering whether it's worth going for a 120hz TN screen. Just have a couple of questions:
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# ? Apr 9, 2014 04:12 |
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You need this thread buddy: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3372494Hace posted:I really think you should get a B85-chipset at the very least, but that's just me I guess. I moved from Mini ITX to Micro ATX and use this board with an i5 4570. It is good board. I like it. You make good recommendation. Doomsday Jesus posted:I just ordered this build I think moving to the MSI board, changing the case out for a Cooler Master N200 ($49.99) then changing the video card to a 750 Ti ($149.99) would be great. It would put you at $556.10 but the motherboard and video card would both be better for you in the long run. 1997 fucked around with this message at 04:41 on Apr 9, 2014 |
# ? Apr 9, 2014 04:27 |
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Chemondelay posted:I'm looking at getting a bog-standard "Goons will like this" build per the OP. It's more or less purely for gaming, and I'm starting from scratch, so I need to pick up a monitor too. I was leaning towards the Dell U2412M by default, but I'm wondering whether it's worth going for a 120hz TN screen. Just have a couple of questions: Personally for me the improved picture quality of an IPS trumps the improved frame rate of 130hz any day, unless you're a pro gamer. You will need a 770 at least or maybe a 780 to be consistently hitting 120 fps at max details. Our gpu recommendations all assume 60hz monitor.
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# ? Apr 9, 2014 04:28 |
The Lord Bude posted:Personally for me the improved picture quality of an IPS trumps the improved frame rate of 130hz any day, unless you're a pro gamer. You will need a 770 at least or maybe a 780 to be consistently hitting 120 fps at max details. Our gpu recommendations all assume 60hz monitor. I'd probably even say 780+ for max settings on most modern games. I'd say 120 fps is downright rare even (at max settings). AA is a big contributor though. But that might not might mean 80 or 90 fps isn't pretty awesome compared to 60 fps, but I wouldn't know. My goal this year is to get a qnix (or equivalent) and run 1440p at 80 or so fps at max settings, as cheap as possible. Really I just want a 27" 1440p but I know the moment I overclock it the bug will strike again. My tentative plan is two 770's. For chemondelay I'm not sure 120 fps is a super realistic goal for a reasonably priced single GPU, at least right now. At least without performance tradeoffs that wouldn't be worth it. Honestly a solid, actual 60 fps that never dips, drops, or stutters is pretty drat awesome. Ignoarints fucked around with this message at 04:40 on Apr 9, 2014 |
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# ? Apr 9, 2014 04:36 |
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Doomsday Jesus posted:Does that work the same for Windows 8.1? Yep! [edit] If you plan on making any changes to the build as per some other goon suggestions (which are good recommendations, imo), Amazon is really good at changing items and swapping stuff out. For future reference, if anyone doing a build can get components from Amazon as a competitive price, they should do it. Newegg's return policy isn't all that great unless you have a Shoprunner account. teagone fucked around with this message at 05:00 on Apr 9, 2014 |
# ? Apr 9, 2014 04:56 |
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Welcome, new PC building thread! After reading the OP and the last ~20 pages of the previous thread, I thought I'd ask some advice. I have a computer approximately 6 or so years old with the specs listed: Intel Core2 Duo E6750 @ 2.66GHz ASUS P5K-E/Wi-Fi AP 6.00 GB DDR3 RAM NVIDIA GeForce 8800 GTS 512 It's been a good machine and still runs very well, and I'm not in the market to refurbish the whole system. However, I do think that it would be a good idea to replace the power supply (over 5 years old) and pick up a new graphics card. Budget: ~$200 for the graphics card, ~$50 for the power supply Uses: 90% gaming, 10% other media Resolution: 1920 x 1080 My goal is to be able to have modern games look reasonably nice, and play 2-3 year old games like the following at High or Max settings: The Witcher 2, Dishonored, Starcraft 2: HotS, Saints Row 4, and Metro: Last Light. My inclination is that for the graphics card I should go with one of these: PNY GeForce GTX 660 ASUS GeForce GTX 660 Sapphire Radeon R9 270X I have no idea which power supply I should go with. What do I look for to see which of these graphics cards has a dedicated PCIe power plug (or two)? Appreciate all of the help!
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# ? Apr 9, 2014 04:56 |
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The 270X blows the 660 out of the water, and you should be able to find Rosewill Capstone 450W at around $50 on Newegg. You also might want to look for the R7 265, which is only $160 but still performs very well. Hace fucked around with this message at 05:18 on Apr 9, 2014 |
# ? Apr 9, 2014 05:16 |
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Is there any real difference between these two PSUs? http://pcpartpicker.com/part/corsair-power-supply-cmpsu750hx http://pcpartpicker.com/part/corsair-power-supply-hx750 They look like the same thing, but with different prices. I must be missing something.
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# ? Apr 9, 2014 05:28 |
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rumspringa57 posted:On the other hand, I've had a hell of a time getting the Linux NVidia drivers to work properly with the GTX 750 Ti. I just went through this about 2 weeks ago. Following this guide got things working for me. I don't do a ton of gaming in Ubuntu, but TF2 was running like a champ after I got the correct drivers installed.
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# ? Apr 9, 2014 05:34 |
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Alright, this is probably a stupid question. I'm thinking about the best way to get stuff off of my current 320GB HDD when I get my new build. My computer is ancient and only has up to USB 2, and most of the devices out there seem to be USB 3 now. Am I right to assume that those would work just fine with my PC and would just have a lower speed than normal, or should I avoid USB 3 devices at all costs?
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# ? Apr 9, 2014 10:03 |
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Ok so I post in here every now and again intending to upgrade and then I end up not getting round to it but I'm totally going to do it this time you guys! Here's what I currently have: INTEL CORE I3-2100 DUAL CORE, 1155, 3.1GHZ, SANDY BRIDGE, HD GFX 2K, 3MB CACHE ASUS P8H77-V, INTEL H77, ATX, LGA1155, PCIE3.0, 4 D3 2200, HDMI, DVI, DP, USB3 ASUS GTX560 DC, 1GB DDDR5, DUAL DVI, HDMI, DIRECT CU, DX11,SLI and 8 gigs of ram. I use it mainly for PC games these days, and it obviously struggles to hit high settings on new games like it used to. If I swap out the CPU and motherboard for: Intel Core i5 4570 Quad Core SRock B85M Pro4 Motherboard (Intel B85, DDR3, S-ATA 600, Micro ATX, etc etc) Am I likely to see much of a bump in performance? I figured the CPU was the main bottleneck but is it worth upgrading the GPU as well? Or should I maybe get the CPU and mobo first, see what the quality of life difference is like, and take it from there? Also, is there any performance difference between the 4570 and the 4670K beyond the ability to overclock? Thanks!
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# ? Apr 9, 2014 10:05 |
Currently have an i3 2100, gtx 460, 8gb ram, 840 evo ssd, 2 x 23" monitors and a lovely old case. I don't play super graphics intensive games, but I feel like that's mostly because my poo poo chugs. I'd like to have the option of playing new poo poo without dreading how it will run. I just bought Everquest Next Landmark (cpu intensive?) and it made me realize that my computer is pretty much a piece of poo poo. Besides that, I browse/video/use photoshop. My budget is $400 or less, wondering if I should just upgrade my GPU or get a haswell i5/mobo/case and stick with my gtx 460 until the next mid range cards drop? edit: woah dude above me has pretty much the same question, hello. Google Butt fucked around with this message at 10:33 on Apr 9, 2014 |
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# ? Apr 9, 2014 10:11 |
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Spielmeister posted:Alright, this is probably a stupid question. I'm thinking about the best way to get stuff off of my current 320GB HDD when I get my new build. My computer is ancient and only has up to USB 2, and most of the devices out there seem to be USB 3 now. Am I right to assume that those would work just fine with my PC and would just have a lower speed than normal, or should I avoid USB 3 devices at all costs? Unless your current HDD is an external drive, just hook it to your new build up via SATA (make sure it's not your boot drive) and copy it's contents onto your new drive. You'll probably want to leave out the system files though. The Grumbles posted:I use it mainly for PC games these days, and it obviously struggles to hit high settings on new games like it used to. What games are you chugging on? Your CPU is getting a little long in the tooth for high settings, but you're probably more GPU limited than anything. Hace fucked around with this message at 10:15 on Apr 9, 2014 |
# ? Apr 9, 2014 10:11 |
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# ? Jun 8, 2024 06:46 |
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Hace posted:
Titanfall and Assassin's Creed 4 have been the first games where I've really had to majorly dial down the settings. I'm currently running Titanfall like 1280x720 in order to keep it at a smooth framerate. I'd really like to upgrade my PC to a point where it can keep up with (and maybe even do better than) the new consoles.
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# ? Apr 9, 2014 10:25 |