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Viper_3000 posted:I think the consensus was that all grease guns are poo poo, but the Lincoln Pistol Grip one was least lovely by a long shot when compared to the rest. That's about it.
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Apr 2, 2014 05:22
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Anyone have the link to that imgur miniature tools album? My mom makes Mid-century Modern miniature furniture and would love to see that stuff.
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Apr 2, 2014 20:37
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DJ Commie posted:Anyone have the link to that imgur miniature tools album? My mom makes Mid-century Modern miniature furniture and would love to see that stuff. I'll bet that tiny furniture isn't a whole lot cheaper to make than regular furniture.
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Apr 2, 2014 21:00
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My current grease gun (I forget the brand, will check later) is, so far, not very infuriating, but I've only used it a few times. If this one pisses me off I'm just gonna save my money and buy one of the ones that uses a 120lb drum of grease and never have to buy grease again in my entire life. We had one of those at the quicklube I worked at with grease guns in all 4 pits and in two years I don't remember it malfunctioning once.
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Apr 2, 2014 21:05
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DJ Commie posted:Anyone have the link to that imgur miniature tools album? My mom makes Mid-century Modern miniature furniture and would love to see that stuff. I didn't save all of them but here are a bunch     
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Apr 2, 2014 22:10
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I want to remove the mirror in our bathroom. But it seems like the metal clips fastening it to the wall have seized up. What's the best cutting tool that will help me remove these fasteners? Would a Dremel tool work? melon cat fucked around with this message at 18:14 on Apr 3, 2014 |
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Apr 3, 2014 17:38
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I got a threaded hex screw cap stuck in a (15mm) socket. It's one of these:  It came from my exhaust, and it was rusty. I've tried PB Blaster and WD40, as well as a hammer to get it the gently caress out, and it won't come out. What tool do I need to remove it?
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Apr 3, 2014 23:32
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Get a bolt of the correct thread, clamp it in a bench vise, thread that back on and use it to hold the nut while you yank on the socket.
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Apr 3, 2014 23:35
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Alternatively you can abuse a screw driver and use one to knock it out from the other side with the aid of a hammer. Tool abuse, yadda yadda, gets the job done. Alternatively you do it the way above, either or, but this is the lazy man way.
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Apr 3, 2014 23:44
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Thanks, boys!
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Apr 4, 2014 00:14
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melon cat posted:I want to remove the mirror in our bathroom. But it seems like the metal clips fastening it to the wall have seized up. How is it fastened from the top/sides? It looks like it's just a bracket to retain things, so it should slide right out with a little elbow grease. If that fails, a cutting wheel might do the trick, provided you can get proper clearance, alternatively, a sledge hammer.
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Apr 4, 2014 01:39
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So the mounting strap on the top of the used dishwasher I bought is broken and I like a dumbass didn't notice until trying to put it in. GE in their infinite wisdom riveted this piece to the metal frame of the dishwasher from the factory, while the replacement is a standard screw. What's the best way to get the rivet out? Preferably without me having to remove the plastic inner lining and hammer it out from the bottom.
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Apr 4, 2014 01:51
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Viper_3000 posted:So the mounting strap on the top of the used dishwasher I bought is broken and I like a dumbass didn't notice until trying to put it in. GE in their infinite wisdom riveted this piece to the metal frame of the dishwasher from the factory, while the replacement is a standard screw. What's the best way to get the rivet out? Preferably without me having to remove the plastic inner lining and hammer it out from the bottom. Same as any other pop rivet: with a drill. Pick a bit just slightly bigger than the middle hole on the rivet.
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Apr 4, 2014 02:15
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eddiewalker posted:Same as any other pop rivet: with a drill. Haven't dealt with rivets before, so this is useful advice. Thanks!
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Apr 4, 2014 02:19
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DJ Commie posted:My mom makes Mid-century Modern miniature furniture and would love to see that stuff. Whoa, hold up. Two of my favourite things combined? Can you link me to any of her work?
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Apr 4, 2014 14:41
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:Whoa, hold up. Two of my favourite things combined? Can you link me to any of her work? Moms and miniature furniture? Some fetishes just seem tame in the internet age.
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Apr 5, 2014 03:04
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McSpatula posted:How is it fastened from the top/sides? It looks like it's just a bracket to retain things, so it should slide right out with a little elbow grease. If that fails, a cutting wheel might do the trick, provided you can get proper clearance, alternatively, a sledge hammer.
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Apr 5, 2014 04:25
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melon cat posted:I want to remove the mirror in our bathroom. But it seems like the metal clips fastening it to the wall have seized up. Hands. Lift it up (provide a picture of the whole loving mirror). Sir Cornelius fucked around with this message at 12:39 on Apr 5, 2014 |
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Apr 5, 2014 11:40
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melon cat posted:I tried sliding it out, but it won't budge. I live in a cookie-cutter townhouse where most of the fixtures were installed quick, cheap, and not designed for removal. Cutting wheel it is, then. Thanks! If it won't move at all, is the mirror affixed to the wall with some sort of adhesive backing? One retaining bracket alone shouldn't be enough to keep it in place like that.
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Apr 5, 2014 12:34
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McSpatula posted:If it won't move at all, is the mirror affixed to the wall with some sort of adhesive backing? One retaining bracket alone shouldn't be enough to keep it in place like that. Once again, a 3-pound drilling hammer solves all problems. Mirrors are cheap these days, and you'll get time served on the 7 years bad luck from having a mirror glued to the wall. Or just use your prying implement of choice to bend the brackets enough to get pliers on them and rip them out. Edit: but yeah, a Dremel and the fiberglass cutoff wheels would make short work of the brackets. And when the mirror stays on the wall, you'll kick yourself for not heeding my and McSpatula's advice and spending the  on fancy Dremel bits instead of a hammer.
Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 12:44 on Apr 5, 2014 |
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Apr 5, 2014 12:41
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Doesn't the mirror usually just lift up out of those clips? It isn't being clamped against the wall, it is just sitting in them. Pry them open a little, run a utility knife around the mirror parallel to the wall as if you were trying to cut the mirror off the wall to break any paint that's sticking it on, then just lift it up out of the brackets like sir cornelius said. Unless it is actually glued to the wall, then you're pretty much hosed!
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Apr 5, 2014 12:55
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kastein posted:Doesn't the mirror usually just lift up out of those clips? It isn't being clamped against the wall, it is just sitting in them. Pry them open a little, run a utility knife around the mirror parallel to the wall as if you were trying to cut the mirror off the wall to break any paint that's sticking it on, then just lift it up out of the brackets like sir cornelius said. If it's attached to the wall with adhesive, you could always buy some fishing line and work it like a 2 person saw along the back of the mirror.
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Apr 5, 2014 14:02
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ShadowStalker posted:If it's attached to the wall with adhesive, you could always buy some fishing line and work it like a 2 person saw along the back of the mirror. If that's the case, it's much better to use some thin iron wire between two pieces of wood. If it's really nasty just heat the wire a bit with a propane torch or get creative with a 9V battery. If it's really-really nasty just go full-blown-Kastein and circle-kick it with steel-toe boots.
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Apr 5, 2014 14:20
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kastein posted:Doesn't the mirror usually just lift up out of those clips? It isn't being clamped against the wall, it is just sitting in them. Pry them open a little, run a utility knife around the mirror parallel to the wall as if you were trying to cut the mirror off the wall to break any paint that's sticking it on, then just lift it up out of the brackets like sir cornelius said.
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Apr 5, 2014 14:21
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melon cat posted:I know what clips you're talking about. But this mirror doesn't use them. They're just 4 of those metal fasteners. Strange, I know. Picture of the whole mirror now. Glue some paper to it to avoid a selfie.
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Apr 5, 2014 14:29
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melon cat posted:I know what clips you're talking about. But this mirror doesn't use them. They're just 4 of those metal fasteners. Strange, I know. OK I have to ask. Will the mirror slide out of the clips? I seem to recall seeing one mounted like that before.
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Apr 5, 2014 15:44
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Timmy Cruise posted:OK I have to ask. Will the mirror slide out of the clips? I seem to recall seeing one mounted like that before. Typically mirrors are mounted with 2 at the bottom and one at top at each side. None at the top, because Newton takes care of that poo poo. This is quickly turning into a new safe-thread. Don't lift the mirror up OP, use dynamite or tannerite.
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Apr 5, 2014 16:21
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Try not to lose any fingats
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Apr 5, 2014 16:23
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kastein posted:Doesn't the mirror usually just lift up out of those clips? It isn't being clamped against the wall, it is just sitting in them. Pry them open a little, run a utility knife around the mirror parallel to the wall as if you were trying to cut the mirror off the wall to break any paint that's sticking it on, then just lift it up out of the brackets like sir cornelius said. If you're really paranoid about scratching the glass, you could try spraying some rust dissolver (other people make comparable products too) on it first and then try working it.
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Apr 5, 2014 18:16
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Jack chat: I've got an older Michelin-branded jack that I got from Sam's Club about 10 years ago. It's got a quick-lift until it hits resistance, then jacks from that point normally. Or, at least it should. Now it quick-lifts fine, and the first 60% of its travel is normal, but then it goes to poo poo. As it goes further up in the travel, the jack arm has almost no resistance and then the last couple inches result in a slight increase in lift. It is annoying and takes forever to get to maximum height. I don't know anything about jacks, they seem pretty simple, is this something fixable, or should I look at a replacement?
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Apr 8, 2014 17:23
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EVERYWHERE 
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It's hydraulic, right? The master cylinder is probably worn out.
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Apr 8, 2014 17:27
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KozmoNaut posted:It's hydraulic, right? Yup, hydraulic. Are they worth rebuilding, or would it be more of a pain to find the right parts than just replacing it?
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Apr 8, 2014 17:31
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According to this: http://newsgroups.derkeiler.com/Archive/Rec/rec.autos.tech/2009-03/msg00014.html It's perfectly possible to repair it. The symptoms he describes match yours exactly.
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Apr 8, 2014 17:38
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KozmoNaut posted:According to this: Heh, I found the same link as I was digging. I'll play with it and see what I can find out.
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Apr 8, 2014 17:39
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It sounds to me like it just needs fluid, like that link suggests, but I might be wrong. Make sure you use hydraulic jack oil and nothing else, HF sells it, among other places.
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Apr 8, 2014 21:23
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Can anyone recommend me a good 2-3 jaw gear puller. Lifetime warranty would be nice but I want to spend less than 60 on it. Did a little reading and saw that the older craftsman ones are nice but the newer ones are on par with harbor freight's. I broke my last one and I'm tired of renting them from Autozone.
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Apr 10, 2014 03:54
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Are there any ball joint presses that don't suck? I've done the loaners from O'Reilly and Autozone, and half the time it doesn't fit around the stack of cups and adapters needed to actually remove said ball joint (mid-late 90's Accords, I'm looking at you!). Normally I just use the adapters and the 20 ton press, but sometimes that's a whole lot of sketchy piles and bracing needed to level out the knuckles, and I fear for my safety. But I always wear my safety glasses! I'll probably just end up buying an adapter set from someplace, and keep adding to my collection of scrap metal and bearing races to level oddball stuff out on the 20 ton.
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Apr 10, 2014 04:34
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Is this a good deal or no? I'm trying to build up some auto tools; the link in the OP is broken.
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Apr 10, 2014 05:23
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Is there a reason you want the 3 ton version? The one in the OP was this, which is http://www.harborfreight.com/15-Ton...utm_source=1020 Looking through my emails from HF, I don't see any deals on that 3 ton. I do know that I use the 2 ton pretty regularly and it's great - honestly, I don't think you can go wrong with an HF jack. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 05:29 on Apr 10, 2014 |
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Apr 10, 2014 05:27
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PitViper posted:Are there any ball joint presses that don't suck? I've done the loaners from O'Reilly and Autozone, and half the time it doesn't fit around the stack of cups and adapters needed to actually remove said ball joint (mid-late 90's Accords, I'm looking at you!). Normally I just use the adapters and the 20 ton press, but sometimes that's a whole lot of sketchy piles and bracing needed to level out the knuckles, and I fear for my safety. But I always wear my safety glasses! I've actually had really good luck with the one from Harbor Freight. It's built like a tank (soo drat heavy), and has a decent set of cups.
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Apr 10, 2014 05:28
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