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I've really been enjoying this thread, and its inspired me to get of my arse and I'm looking for some pointers on parts I'm a bit stuck with. This is the current state of play:  Getting near the point I can consider painting the body (just some cleanup and filling needed), but there's a couple of things I'm unsure about. First thing is the cockpit - there's an insert that needs to be fixed to the glass canopy, but unsure how I can get this glued without making any visible glue marks. Any ideas?   My second problem is the cowl. The paint scheme I'm going for means that the upper and lower halves of the cowl are different colours. I want to get this fixed and fillered before I paint, but that seems impossible given that there's going to be guns poking out of it. I thought about masking round the guns with it fixed, but then I worry I'll get no paint into them there cavities. What's best to do here?  Last thing - I've been using both Tamiya and Vallejo model air. The Vallejo woks like a charm, whereas the Tamiya paint I'm having some confusion with. Everywhere I read says to thin the Tamiya paint, but I'm finding if I use any more than a few drops of thinner (nothing like the ratio that people seem to recommend) it comes out like a wash. I'm pretty sure it's something I'm doing wrong (and probably the bleeding obvious), but I can't for the life of me figure it out.
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Apr 7, 2014 20:03
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| # ? May 16, 2024 05:22 |
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porkfactor posted:
I generally use Tamiya paints thinned 50/50 with their own thinner X-20A at 1 bar pressure and I find it works very well. Airbrushing takes a bit of getting used to though you want to be aiming for very thing translucent coats building up colour over several layers. Have you got a dual action airbrush? This is a really good DVD for anyones interest but also has nice sections on thinning paint and airbrush basics https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ud33OgZAAs big_g fucked around with this message at 21:28 on Apr 7, 2014 |
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Apr 7, 2014 21:18
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Canopy: have you discovered Future yet? That'll shine your canopy up and be sticky enough to hold that framework. Any white glue that dries transparent should do, too. Don't use regular model glue or superglue, those'll gently caress it up. Painting around the guns: paint the nose first, then add the guns, mask them and then repaint when it's all assembled? That way all the holes should be painted. Airbrush - no clue, don't have one which is why all my stuff looks like crap.
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Apr 7, 2014 23:48
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Ok a bunch of my windows that I "glued" in with future flaked off. What glue should I be using that won't fog up my transparent stuff and will hold strong?
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Apr 7, 2014 23:52
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Baronjutter posted:Ok a bunch of my windows that I "glued" in with future flaked off. What glue should I be using that won't fog up my transparent stuff and will hold strong? Quoting myself from a few pages back: Bloody Hedgehog posted:As Baronjutter said, Future works okay for gluing clear parts. If you want some more strength to the glue though, the best thing you can get is Watch Crystal Cement. Dries crystal clear, is super-strong, and won't craze plastic.
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Apr 8, 2014 01:13
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big_g posted:This is a really good DVD for anyones interest but also has nice sections on thinning paint and airbrush basics https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ud33OgZAAs Thanks for this! I really wish I'd seen that video earlier - long story short, it looks like the root of all my problems is air pressure (and far too much of it). Bloody Hedgehog posted:Quoting myself from a few pages back: this looks perfect (and surprisingly cheap)
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Apr 8, 2014 18:35
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Had to really look around for that watch crystal glue but found some that will ship to canada for less than double the cost of the glue its self. All the US sellers wanted like $10 shipping for $5 glue. Found some in Hong Kong for $7 plus a free package of crystals! FREE CRYSTALS! I'm going to bedazzle the poo poo out of poo poo.
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Apr 8, 2014 20:40
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Working on another building.  
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Apr 9, 2014 18:27
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Saw this the other day in Winners. What aircraft is it and in what universe is a shoddily welded together model of it worth seventy bucks?
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Apr 10, 2014 01:01
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That's a PBY-5 Catalina.
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Apr 10, 2014 01:03
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Could be made of bits of old PBY, in which case... maybe?
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Apr 10, 2014 01:11
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Maybe it's military prison art, and it was smuggled out in some guys butt.
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Apr 10, 2014 02:20
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But guys, it's handcrafted by skilled partisans.
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Apr 10, 2014 03:10
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I've as good as finished the Panther now. I'm quite pleased with how it's turned out in the end.      
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Apr 10, 2014 16:43
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Very nice. How come you don't have machineguns installed?
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Apr 10, 2014 17:52
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big_g posted:I've as good as finished the Panther now. I'm quite pleased with how it's turned out in the end. Lovely job on the mud. Different shades of brown -> splatter that mother?
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Apr 10, 2014 17:58
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Ensign Expendable posted:Very nice. How come you don't have machineguns installed? The hull mounted gun snapped off in the final stages and zipped off into the gaping jaws of the carpet monster I'm afraid. I've yet to fix it.
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Apr 10, 2014 20:59
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So here's a thing a friend of mine just found around the internet.
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Apr 10, 2014 21:45
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big_g posted:The hull mounted gun snapped off in the final stages and zipped off into the gaping jaws of the carpet monster I'm afraid. I've yet to fix it. Eh, abandoned tanks had their machineguns removed, so it's not horribly inaccurate to not have one.
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Apr 11, 2014 00:31
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Arquinsiel posted:So here's a thing a friend of mine just found around the internet. I presume that's artistic license, rather then the Normandy beaches getting that deep that quick? Local beaches can go out about 50 meters before you're unable to walk on the bottom. On topic: Going to be putting together a see-hund model in the near future, and if I find them, a Neger, Molsh and Biber.
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Apr 11, 2014 11:19
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N17R4M posted:I presume that's artistic license, rather then the Normandy beaches getting that deep that quick? I can't say anything about Normandy specifically, but there are many, many beaches that get very deep less than ten feet from shore. The freakiest one I've personally seen was a secluded beach on Oahu. Beautiful sandy bottom for about 8 feet, and then it just drops off into the depths. It's one thing to hit a drop off, go under, and then see the bottom slope away, it's a whole 'nother to go under and just see the abyss open up under you.
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Apr 11, 2014 11:32
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N17R4M posted:I presume that's artistic license, rather then the Normandy beaches getting that deep that quick?
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Apr 11, 2014 17:44
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From wikipedia but at least Utah beach was apparently only waist deep for the first 100 or so meters out.
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Apr 11, 2014 18:00
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So the "underwater" part is plexiglass and painting, right?
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Apr 11, 2014 18:20
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Nope. Look through the whole thing, it's poured resin or something by the looks of it.
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Apr 11, 2014 18:26
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I'm not so sure if it's poured resin though. If it was, I wouldn't expect such a harsh line on the edge of the surface plane. Plus, it can be hard to keep those underwater plants nice and fluffy with pounds of resin on them. He may have simply cast the top waves portion, and then airbrushed a color gradient on the inside of the tank to simulate the effect of color change with depth.
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Apr 11, 2014 20:53
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I'd just stick a funnel right down to the bottom and fill from there up, but that's just thinking quickly. There's always the option of doing multiple layers. The top section is removable though.
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Apr 11, 2014 21:14
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:I'm not so sure if it's poured resin though. If it was, I wouldn't expect such a harsh line on the edge of the surface plane. Plus, it can be hard to keep those underwater plants nice and fluffy with pounds of resin on them. It's a clear polyurethane tinted with acrylic colors. (Tamiya Model Magazine October 2011) Doesn't say what brand though. Edit: Wait, poo poo. I was thinking of a different diorama.
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Apr 12, 2014 00:25
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Quick Hypothetical. (I Hope. It was damned tempting to buy one!) I was looking at three 1:72 Bomber kitsets at the store, A Revell Lancaster, Airfix Shorts Stirling and an SM Sparviero by Italieri. They all appeared to be fairly recent productions. Would any of them be of inferior build quality or detail?
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Apr 14, 2014 10:56
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Jaguars! posted:Quick Hypothetical. (I Hope. It was damned tempting to buy one!) I was looking at three 1:72 Bomber kitsets at the store, A Revell Lancaster, Airfix Shorts Stirling and an SM Sparviero by Italieri. They all appeared to be fairly recent productions. Would any of them be of inferior build quality or detail? I'm not aware of a recent Revell Lancaster, and the older ones don't fit together too well (though I may be forgetting a recent release). If the Short Stirling is Airfix model no. 07002 (had to check the number) then don't bother, it's just a new box for a 60's mold. Not looked too closely at the Sparviero, but so long as it's actually an Italeri kit and not some mold they've bought then you should be good for it.
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Apr 14, 2014 12:25
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Post your hobby area! Finally got a bunch of paint racks for my hobby area. Still a tight space, living in a condo, but at least things are organized now. 
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Apr 18, 2014 10:22
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Very nice and neat! This is mine, stuffed in the loft:  The top paint rack is now side-by-side with the other bottle rack, and full of Minitaire paints. Need to decide if I'll rework the A-10 Warthog I've got or just try to build another model next. I might try to find some figures to sit on the various tank models I plan on building.
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Apr 19, 2014 13:46
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Well that certainly beats my workspace by a mile. At least I get plenty of sunlight while painting. Which is also why there is a block of foam behind the paint rack. Also began on the Hasegawa Osprey in earnest with washing the sprues and base coating them. Wherein I learned two lessons in that I should've let them dry for a bit longer to really get rid of any water or soap residue (or possibly rinsed them off) and that base coating is a rather paint intensive affair when it doesn't want to cover really properly due to various reasons. Gonna have to buy another can of paint at some point as mine is down to its last quarter or so.
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Apr 19, 2014 14:46
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Mine is a computer desk and I keep my paints in a box  Probably going to set up a proper workspace when I move, but I don't have the room right now.
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Apr 19, 2014 16:36
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Does anyone know of a good Mig 23 (or Mig 27) model kit, preferably in 1/72 or 1/48? I've seen several but reviews for them are sparse, and I'm wary of old model kits after a rather disastrous Revell Mig-21 (seriously, that thing had more plastic where it wasn't supposed to be than where it was.)
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Apr 21, 2014 00:44
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krushgroove posted:The top paint rack is now side-by-side with the other bottle rack, and full of Minitaire paints. Need to decide if I'll rework the A-10 Warthog I've got or just try to build another model next. I might try to find some figures to sit on the various tank models I plan on building. Where did you get that rack for your rattlecans?
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Apr 22, 2014 14:24
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SkunkDuster posted:Where did you get that rack for your rattlecans? There are no rattlecans in my picture ??? The plain MDF racks are from an ebay seller (http://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/wargame-model-mods) but there's tons of sites and ebay sellers that sell similar stuff. I use a small IKEA rolling metal drawer unit that's at my left hand for storing stuff I don't need every time I sit down. I'm still working through the ergonomics of my setup every time I sit down, but hopefully that's helpful for you.
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Apr 22, 2014 15:39
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krushgroove posted:There are no rattlecans in my picture ??? Oops, my mistake. I had just woken up when I saw that picture and my sense of scale was way off. I thought all those paint jars were rattlecans. That is a pretty nice looking setup.
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Apr 23, 2014 01:04
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A friend and I built a submarine the other day. My first work with an airbrush. Revell 1/72 Seehund     I think it turned out pretty ok.
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Apr 25, 2014 17:11
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I found this for only $13, an RPM TK-3 tankette. RPM is some Polish company I never heard of, but I had decent results with those, and hey, thirteen bucks. The base I used was from a Dragon 1:16th scale figure.    No decals in the kit (I have no idea where I had Polish decals from, but apparently I do), but at least this one comes with a painting guide more interesting than "paint it green". Polish camo is actually really fun to paint! I should do more of their stuff. The manual doesn't mention what to do with the crowbar, however, or the two extra spare road wheels. This thing is absolutely tiny, a bit bigger than a 1:72 tank. I actually looked up a few other kits to make sure this isn't a 1:48 scale kit or something. The small size reflects poorly on the tracks, as they will break when you cut them off the sprue. They aren't individual pieces, entire sections are molded in one piece, so no sagging is possible. The design of the kit is a bit wrong, as the hatch above the machinegun is shifted too far to the left. Also the gun doesn't have an opening, and neither does the exhaust pipe, but that's what the good old soldering iron is for. The gun looks like it should at least be able to move up and down, but can't. The only hatches you can glue open are the top ones, and even then there's no point, as there is absolutely no interior detail.
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Apr 30, 2014 23:19
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