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Well, on the flip side, if you get her a gas trimmer, and you're the only one that can maintain the engine when it needs it, that's just job security, right? 
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Apr 12, 2014 02:12
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I have a battery powered weed eater. Corner lot of .4 acre and I can trim around the sidewalk, driveway, house and fence line no problem. It doesn't compare to gas on thick stuff, but for basic lawn maintenance it is SOOOO much better than gas, IMO.
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Apr 12, 2014 03:02
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Slavvy posted:I certainly wouldn't buy an electric lawn-mower, and this seems to be kind of the same thing? Sorta? I have an electric lawnmower and I'm perfectly happy with it. 
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Apr 12, 2014 03:10
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Looking at houses online, is a second kitchen a bad thing? I've heard of and like the idea of a mini bar, but a full second sink, electric stove and (hole for) a fridge? The monstrosity can be seen here, there are two pictures of the basement kitchen, flipping through the images and coming to that was a bit shocking. I'm guessing that I could potentially go hog wild with a sledge hammer and remove the problem, but I just want to get an idea for how big of a project that might be, I'm an apartment renter with no home remodeling experience.
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Apr 13, 2014 17:32
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Crotch Fruit posted:Looking at houses online, is a second kitchen a bad thing? I've heard of and like the idea of a mini bar, but a full second sink, electric stove and (hole for) a fridge? The monstrosity can be seen here, there are two pictures of the basement kitchen, flipping through the images and coming to that was a bit shocking. I'm guessing that I could potentially go hog wild with a sledge hammer and remove the problem, but I just want to get an idea for how big of a project that might be, I'm an apartment renter with no home remodeling experience. Around here, that's called a "canning kitchen." If you don't want a second full kitchen, it makes for a great start for a wet bar. It's becoming more an more of an oddity, so you can probably argue it as a negative and try negotiate off enough cash to remove it (even if you really do want to keep the thing). As far as removing it......there's going to be floor and wall repair involved, but nothing too serious. It's mostly just demolition with a tiny bit of capping off plumbing and boxing up electrical. Nothing a crow bar and a sawzall can't handle the bulk of in a weekend. Motronic fucked around with this message at 18:10 on Apr 13, 2014 |
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Apr 13, 2014 18:08
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Motronic posted:Around here, that's called a "canning kitchen." Thanks for your insight about this "canning kitchen", maybe I should actually learn to grow a garden and get into canning foods.  Hypothetically, if sometime in the future my wife and I decided we wanted a bathroom in the basement, I'm assuming that kitchen would be the perfect place to put one? Plumbing is intact, GFCI outlets are intact, just throw up some Of course, I should actually go look at the property before actually making any decisions, I kinda think the price has already been reduced to represent the canning kitchen. I like a lot of what I see in the other pictures except for the blue counter tops, and the fact that it's on the outskirts of Wichita, but listed under the Goddard school district 5 miles out of town. . .
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Apr 13, 2014 18:38
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Crotch Fruit posted:Thanks for your insight about this "canning kitchen", maybe I should actually learn to grow a garden and get into canning foods. As far as adding a bathroom it depends. The drain setup they have for the kitchen sink likely would not accommodate a toilet, I would really need to see what exactly they've got in there to let you know just how much would need to be changed to add one. Either way based on house value alone I would suspect that putting in a bathroom for 10k would be doable if you were willing to do the grunt work yourself and only hire out the parts that require a bit more knowledge.
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Apr 13, 2014 18:50
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Something to consider is that you might be able to set up an in-law unit and rent it out. Maybe that's something you're not interested in, though.
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Apr 13, 2014 20:18
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Jadunk posted:As far as adding a bathroom it depends. The drain setup they have for the kitchen sink likely would not accommodate a toilet, Got to agree with that. A toilet would likely involve busting up some concrete for a pit and grinder pump. It's not the end of the world to do it as you've probably got what you need close by (maybe even a pit and grinder pump for the sink drain depending on grade and where the sanitary sewer line is), but it's gonna take some effort to get a toilet flange and piping on the floor. It's something anyone who is reasonably handy or wants to learn can do mostly on their own with some help/oversight to get them started and through the trickier parts.
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Apr 13, 2014 20:51
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Bad Munki posted:Also, for the trimmer head, get one of those heads that has three arms and a swivel on the end of each one, through which you fish about 12" of standard trimmer string, bent in half at the swivel. They're awesome. No need to buy the precut lengths: just buy a regular coil of trimmer string, cut it into a few dozen 12" lengths, and when you go out to trim, stick a few in your pocket. NTT posted:I sold those heads when I worked at Lowe's. They're kickass. Do either of you remember the name/brand of it?
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Apr 14, 2014 13:56
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Ah, actually, I don't know why I couldn't find it last time, but here's the one I have, it popped right up in my search today: "Shakespeare Ugly Head" http://www.lowes.com/pd_29767-42694...head&facetInfo= But really any head that just has those swivels on the perimeter with doubled up string lengths through them should work great. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 14:03 on Apr 14, 2014 |
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Apr 14, 2014 14:00
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Bad Munki posted:Ah, actually, I don't know why I couldn't find it last time, but here's the one I have, it popped right up in my search today: Awesome, thanks!
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Apr 14, 2014 15:03
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My wife wanted to purchase this light fixture for the house. Is this compatible with dimmable LEDs? And what dimmer switch would I need to go with it? I would be hiring an electrician to install this. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Marquis-...l3Z12l4Z1z0w30y Thanks!
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Apr 14, 2014 16:42
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Just get some dimmable led bulbs and this switch, if it is only a single light switch to control. It is super easy to do yourself also. Just kill the power first. Take a picture of the existing wiring, reference the included diagram and you are good to go. I assume you are replacing an existing light. http://m.homedepot.com/p/Lutron-Tog..._-100672882-_-N spwrozek fucked around with this message at 16:58 on Apr 14, 2014 |
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Apr 14, 2014 16:55
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spwrozek posted:Just get some dimmable led bulbs and this switch, if it is only a single light switch to control. It is super easy to do yourself also. Just kill the power first. Take a picture of the existing wiring, reference the included diagram and you are good to go. I assume you are replacing an existing light. Well I guess what confused me was that the chandelier says that it's compatible with incandescents but doesn't explicitly disallow LEDs. Is the assumption that dimmable LEDs work in all incandescent type light fixtures??
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Apr 14, 2014 19:30
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Insane Totoro posted:Is the assumption that dimmable LEDs work in all incandescent type light fixtures?? Yes. Fixtures are typically pretty "dumb". They're just wires going to a socket. Providing you aren't putting a bulb in that gets too hot for the fixture (CFL and LEDs are obviously quite a bit cooler than incandescents) it's going to be just fine. You just need to make sure your dimmer is appropriate for dimmable LEDs.
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Apr 14, 2014 19:37
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Motronic posted:Yes. Fixtures are typically pretty "dumb". They're just wires going to a socket. Providing you aren't putting a bulb in that gets too hot for the fixture (CFL and LEDs are obviously quite a bit cooler than incandescents) it's going to be just fine. Oh I see! I thought it'd be more complicated than that with all the wiring and the such. What makes a dimmer appropriate for LEDs? Because the one linked earlier here is marked not compatible with LEDs.
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Apr 14, 2014 19:41
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Insane Totoro posted:Oh I see! I thought it'd be more complicated than that with all the wiring and the such. "Sine wave"/digital/PWM dimmers are compatible with LEDs. At home depot they will be explicitly labeled as LED or CFL compatible. SCRs (most cheap dimmers) are not.
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Apr 14, 2014 20:19
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As I understand it, basically dimmers can either work by varying the voltage supplied to the light, or by toggling between high and low voltage very quickly (as thelightguy suggested -- "PWM" means "pulse width modulation", i.e. the duration of each pulse of high voltage is varied (modulated)). Only incandescent lights really work well with variable voltage, which is why you need a different kind of dimmer if you want to dim other kinds of lights. The PWM dimmers basically just turn the light on and off really quickly.
TooMuchAbstraction fucked around with this message at 20:34 on Apr 14, 2014 |
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Apr 14, 2014 20:28
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http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...1vZc34iZ1z0wo9q Okay so am I interpreting correctly that this one would work?
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Apr 14, 2014 21:06
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Yes, that one should work just fine.
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Apr 14, 2014 21:09
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Thanks. My wife will be ecstatic!
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Apr 14, 2014 21:11
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Sorry about my link, home depot mobile failed me. They have them right in the store though on all kinds of variety.
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Apr 14, 2014 21:51
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Dimmer compatibility depends on the bulb as well. Many bulbs use drivers that have circuitry to handle SRC/TRIAC input. And some non-dimmable bulbs can work reasonably well with PWM switches (particularly if your PWM switch has a wired neutral).Insane Totoro posted:Well I guess what confused me was that the chandelier says that it's compatible with incandescents It also advertises "the energy saving incandescent bulbs make it practical", so it would seem the description is targeted at the 1900's consumer looking to upgrade from their kerosene lamps.
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Apr 14, 2014 23:56
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 The piece of wood lying on the bottom step has broken off. I'm not sure how I can fix it. I thought about wood glue but I'm not sure how I would clamp it to hold it there. Any ideas?
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Apr 15, 2014 03:29
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Gatla posted:
Tack it on with a brad nailer. The hole will be small enough you probably won't be able to see it when you're standing up.
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Apr 15, 2014 03:34
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Gatla posted:
That piece is small enough to be held in place with masking tape.
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Apr 15, 2014 03:36
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Coupla finish nails might be an option if you can't rig up a clamp. Uh, for gluing it of course. You need to glue it I think.
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Apr 15, 2014 03:36
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:As I understand it, basically dimmers can either work by varying the voltage supplied to the light, or by toggling between high and low voltage very quickly (as thelightguy suggested -- "PWM" means "pulse width modulation", i.e. the duration of each pulse of high voltage is varied (modulated)). Only incandescent lights really work well with variable voltage, which is why you need a different kind of dimmer if you want to dim other kinds of lights. The PWM dimmers basically just turn the light on and off really quickly. Close. SCRs work by just chopping the sine wave off at a certain point in the cycle, and rely on a minimum load to function correctly. LEDs and CFLs do not load the dimmer enough for it to function properly, which can do anything from killing your bulbs prematurely to simply not dimming and just snapping off when there isn't enough power to drive the voltage regulator in your bulb. PWM dimmers are basically what you described. They require a neutral connection and don't care what load is on them, they'll just output a high frequency signal that roughly resembles a 60hz sine wave at whatever duty cycle is needed to give you the dimming effect. Even when you get SCR dimmers that advertise "no load" operation, the big difference is the frequency of the modulation. SCRs are always 60Hz, resulting in a flicker, PWM dimmers work at several kHz. corgski fucked around with this message at 03:40 on Apr 15, 2014 |
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Apr 15, 2014 03:38
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Gatla posted:
It was glued on originally. You can use a fast-setting epoxy; you'd only have to sit there holding it fast (or use duct tape) for ten minutes or so. Have a rag & some isopropyl alcohol handy to wipe off any excess before it sets up.
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Apr 15, 2014 03:42
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Gatla posted:
Wood glue and finish nails. Pre-drill for the nails.
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Apr 15, 2014 04:27
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Any machinists lurking about? Is this a surface gauge? Anyone recognize it or know where to find one similar? The surface gauges I've been able to source out have been more puny. 
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Apr 16, 2014 01:11
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It's a height gauge.
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Apr 16, 2014 01:58
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Anybody have experience building an at home carbonator and have tips?
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Apr 16, 2014 23:34
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BrainParasite posted:Anybody have experience building an at home carbonator and have tips? I put one together. Bought a reconditioned CO2 tank from a fire extinguisher store, a regulator from a U Brew place and a ball lock valve and a couple ball lock soda bottle caps and connected it up. I can link to the parts as an example if you're interested, but I'm on my phone right now. I cool 2L bottles of water in the fridge to help with solubility, put a ball lock cap on while squishing out any air, connect up the gas and let it rip. Then it's just a matter of shaking the bottle for a minute or two to dissolve the CO2 and I'm drinking the fizziest water I've ever had.
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Apr 17, 2014 06:37
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sund posted:I put one together. Bought a reconditioned CO2 tank from a fire extinguisher store, a regulator from a U Brew place and a ball lock valve and a couple ball lock soda bottle caps and connected it up. I can link to the parts as an example if you're interested, but I'm on my phone right now. I am interested. I've seen a couple similar plans online, but I'd definitely like to see another version.
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Apr 17, 2014 11:24
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The links are to a Canadian store I bought things from, but you can probably find better selection elsewhere. * CO2 tank - The fire extinguisher store does this kind of stuff all the time, so the valve and fittings were whatever the standard is. * Regulator (http://www.ontariobeerkegs.com/product_p/t742hp-02.htm) - Like I said, I got a used one from a U-brew shop for a good deal. I put new tape on the threads and it was good to go. * Hose and ball lock fittings (http://www.ontariobeerkegs.com/Gas_Tubing_Assembly_Ball_Lock_Disconnect_for_Kegs_p/gas-tubing-ball-lock-barb.htm) - These seem to come in liquid and gas versions. * Bottle cap (http://www.ontariobeerkegs.com/Carbonation_cap_for_Beer_p/carbonation-cap.htm) There's a plastic one out there too, but it wasn't a whole lot more to get the steel one domestically for me. I got the barbed fittings for the hose attachments, which use hose clamps. You can get threaded stuff as well, but my regulator already had a barbed fitting on it and that linked combo package of hose and ball lock valve were barbed, so I went with that. I'd recommend picking up whatever washers and O rings your equipment uses if you're making an order online. I needed one of these: http://www.ontariobeerkegs.com/product_p/nylon-co2-washer.htm so I grabbed a couple as spares. Also, those plastic ball lock valves feel very flimsy and use a bit of force to put them on the bottle and contain 60 PSI of CO2, so I feel like that if anything breaks, it'll be that. I should have got a spare. Attached is my setup. Way better and cheaper to operate than a Soda Stream, and not that much more to put together.
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Apr 17, 2014 16:13
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Next inconvenient discovery in my new home: The shower wall has separated from the bathroom wall. Pictures below, but basically the shower wall is a cheap plastic deal that was glued onto the bathroom wall and caulked up along the edges. The long wall of the shower has become nearly completely separated from the bathroom wall behind it, from the top all the way down to where the soap is in the picture. You can push it in, but it bellows right back out an inch or two, to the point that new caulk won't fix it on its own. (The shorter walls are still secure but would need new caulking.) Is this something that I can fix in place, or do I need to take it off and replace it entirely? If the former, how?     
Cranbe fucked around with this message at 01:22 on Apr 18, 2014 |
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Apr 17, 2014 21:05
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^ Can you use timg? I can't see poo poo
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Apr 18, 2014 01:00
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BoyBlunder posted:^ Can you use timg? I can't see poo poo Fixed that. Sorry, I'm phone posting.
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Apr 18, 2014 01:23
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