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Alereon posted:Reminder: Memory is installed in matched pairs. Installing only one module will cut memory bandwidth in half, severely impacting system performance. This needs to be put in the OP, badly.
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Apr 13, 2014 22:39
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beejay posted:Maybe I'm missing it but where in any of that does it make a distinction about one vs. two sticks of memory? I would also be interested in knowing this. quote:Memory speed doesnt affect the frame rate much now. The difference between the slow and fast memory configurations amounts to just a few percent. Thief is an exception, though. It shows that the clock rate of your DDR3 SDRAM is a performance-affecting factor even when you run your game at maximum visual quality settings. So if you're into gaming and want maximum performance, you shouldn't disregard your memory subsystem parameters altogether. From a quick read the message seems to be that certain very artificial scenarios (Thief at 1280x800 resolution, for eg) memory speed makes a big difference but by and large it doesn't. I didn't see anything about the matched pairs thing, and going on the rage and spittle applied I'd think the evidence would be more obvious? sebmojo fucked around with this message at 22:59 on Apr 13, 2014 |
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Apr 13, 2014 22:52
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Alereon posted:This also means that performance scales with memory bandwidth even beyond dual-channel DDR3-1600, because it's not 20-loving-10 anymore and modern CPUs running modern applications need lots of memory bandwidth to feed them. Here's some recent benchmarks showing memory bandwidth scaling performance: These are single digit FPS differences running games at small resolutions with graphics hardware more powerful than the thread recommends (780 Ti? really?). The only time memory bandwidth really matters is when you're trying to run games on integrated graphics, which, if you're serious about using your system for gaming, you also aren't going to do. It's best bang for the buck to have 2x4G at 1600 CL9, but it's not really a red flag to have something different. The specific configuration of those 8 gigs of ram doesn't have a significant impact on gaming performance, web browsing, and light work, which are the main tasks of the systems being recommended.
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Apr 14, 2014 00:14
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While we're on RAM talk, I just realized the Kingston RAM I ordered for my SteamBox is 1.65v, not 1.5v - is my mainboard going to crap itself? It's an ITX MSI H81I. I ordered from Amazon so I can swap it out if absolutely necessary.
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Apr 14, 2014 00:52
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teagone posted:While we're on RAM talk, I just realized the Kingston RAM I ordered for my SteamBox is 1.65v, not 1.5v - is my mainboard going to crap itself? It's an ITX MSI H81I. I ordered from Amazon so I can swap it out if absolutely necessary. It probably means it has XMP, which needs to be enabled in BIOS to make sure it's running at the right speed. It's basically a stock overclock that afaik might affect lifespan. I think.
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Apr 14, 2014 02:40
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teagone posted:While we're on RAM talk, I just realized the Kingston RAM I ordered for my SteamBox is 1.65v, not 1.5v - is my mainboard going to crap itself? It's an ITX MSI H81I. I ordered from Amazon so I can swap it out if absolutely necessary. If it's 1600 1.65v it'll just clock down to 1333 1.5v and be fine.
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Apr 14, 2014 03:15
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My work replaced the lovely 3 year old HP desktop they gave me with a new thin client. This somehow manages to be a significant downgrade, as I now have a slow, locked down virtualized windows 7 desktop. All I need at work is to run a citrix instance of my electronic medical record, MS office, chrome, and a few random things like evernote/dropbox. I have rather rudimentary requirements at work. But I can't do most of these any more because I can't actually install anything on the virtual desktop, so I'm going to bring my own. For my rather basic purposes, would I notice much of a difference between the mobile i3 and i5 processors in the intel NUCs? It's about $80 to upgrade from i3 to i5. Also, please correct me if I'm wrong, but I can't find a better way to get a speedy office/web browsing computer for these prices (400-500 for these systems after you add 8 gb of RAM and a 120 gb SSD). I have a windows 7 license lying around, so I don't have to count that in the expense. I may invest in a cheap larger monitor to finally eclipse 14 inches at work. That makes the total about as much as a cheap ultra book, but if I went laptop I'd still probably want a nicer monitor. Thanks for any advice.
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Apr 14, 2014 03:30
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Propaganda Hour posted:If it's 1600 1.65v it'll just clock down to 1333 1.5v and be fine. Yep, it's DDR1600. Couldn't I just manually set the voltage to 1.65 in the BIOS to get the RAM to run at max speed? Or is that a bad idea?
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Apr 14, 2014 03:51
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Serephina posted:This needs to be put in the OP, badly. Yeah
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Apr 14, 2014 03:59
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teagone posted:Yep, it's DDR1600. Couldn't I just manually set the voltage to 1.65 in the BIOS to get the RAM to run at max speed? Or is that a bad idea? You wouldn't be able to do it on your motherboard since H81 is the bottom of the line chipset. I think XMP and any RAM overclocking is only on Z87 boards.
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Apr 14, 2014 05:08
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ShaneB posted:Yeah I'm fine with that, but do the linked posts support the assertion? I can't see that they do, unless I'm missing it?
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Apr 14, 2014 05:24
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pokecapn posted:You wouldn't be able to do it on your motherboard since H81 is the bottom of the line chipset. I think XMP and any RAM overclocking is only on Z87 boards. Ahh, ok. I'll just swap it out for 1.5v RAM then.
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Apr 14, 2014 07:16
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I'm not really wanting to spend more than $100 on a mobo. It seems that if I can find one that'll support the new hardware and has all the connections I want, why bother going for one that's pricier? So far the only compromises I can see are having 2 DDR3 slots instead of 4, and maybe only having DVI output instead of DVI plus HDMI...which I'd only use on the mobo for backup in case the new vidcard failed/error-ed, same with the onboard audio. But is this a good mentality to have? To cut corners on the mobo to free up $ for a slightly faster CPU? Is this something I should NOT skimp on? EDIT: forgot to ask, is there any reason I should go for two 4 GB RAM sticks instead of one 8 GB stick, leaving the other slot for another single 8? (this would be on a mobo with 16 GB max, by the way). If I go for a different mobo that can do 32, same question: any advantages between single or double sticks? Agent Escalus fucked around with this message at 12:29 on Apr 14, 2014 |
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Apr 14, 2014 11:56
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Agent Escalus posted:I'm not really wanting to spend more than $100 on a mobo. It seems that if I can find one that'll support the new hardware and has all the connections I want, why bother going for one that's pricier? So far the only compromises I can see are having 2 DDR3 slots instead of 4, and maybe only having DVI output instead of DVI plus HDMI...which I'd only use on the mobo for backup in case the new vidcard failed/error-ed, same with the onboard audio. As long as it's a reputable brand (Asus, Asrock,MSI would be the main ones) just compare the features and feel free to not buy a motherboard that has stuff you don't need. Start by comparing the chipset - Z87 if you need overclocking or multi gpu support, B85 is fine for everything else - then look at things like ram slots, number of PCI-e slots - and layout, if you want a big cooler - quality of the Audio chip, quality of the NIC - Intel ones are the best, cheaper boards will often use realtek or something, leet gamer crap often has Killer. Number of USB ports, USB headers for front panels, fan headers - then start looking at how the board is laid out, especially on tiny boards - some brands for eg put the CPU socket so close to the PCIe slot that you can't fit a tower cooler. z87 boards tend to pile on the overclocking features as you go up in price but b85 boards should all be much of a muchness other than obvious things like the above.
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Apr 14, 2014 12:30
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Whats a safe overclock for a 4670k with a 212? I just enabled the auto overclock on my motherboard which bumped it upto 4.2 and upped the voltage a bit. Not seeing any difference in temperatures from standard and the thing seems stable, I should probably just leave it as is 
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Apr 14, 2014 13:10
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Agent Escalus posted:EDIT: forgot to ask, is there any reason I should go for two 4 GB RAM sticks instead of one 8 GB stick, leaving the other slot for another single 8? (this would be on a mobo with 16 GB max, by the way). If I go for a different mobo that can do 32, same question: any advantages between single or double sticks? Read the last page and this one, it was just discussed.
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Apr 14, 2014 14:20
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Thanks for the advice, I think tonight I'm going to order the fan controller, another memory stick, the Noctua NH-U14S CPU cooler and NF-S12A case fan. What is the rule for case fan positioning and numbers? Rear fan, intake? Is there a minimum number of fans for a non-overclocked computer with no graphics card (yet)? I took a look at the BIOS thermometer last night, as is I think it's running in the middle thirties Celsius.
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Apr 14, 2014 14:21
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smelly cabin filter posted:Whats a safe overclock for a 4670k with a 212? I just enabled the auto overclock on my motherboard which bumped it upto 4.2 and upped the voltage a bit. Not seeing any difference in temperatures from standard and the thing seems stable, I should probably just leave it as is Overclocking thread probably has the info you want. Short answer: 4.4-4.6 is average limits. 1.30 - 1.35 is average vcore before thermal limits. Autotuning is almost always wasteful.
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Apr 14, 2014 14:24
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Rockopolis posted:Thanks for the advice, I think tonight I'm going to order the fan controller, another memory stick, the Noctua NH-U14S CPU cooler and NF-S12A case fan. Office work type systems can happily make do with one fan. 2 fans is better for higher end systems with a graphics card. The typical (sensible) gaming PC has 2 intakes and one exhaust (or in some cases one large intake fan and a smaller exhaust fan) because this creates positive pressure that helps keep dust out. Anything beyond 3 case fans and you'd really want to have a bloody good reason. 99% of people have no reason to get a case with more than 3 fans. Stay away from anything with fans smaller than 120mm. Better cases will have 140mm or bigger fans, or at least the option to add them.
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Apr 14, 2014 14:29
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sebmojo posted:I'm fine with that, but do the linked posts support the assertion? I can't see that they do, unless I'm missing it? They more or less do. It's just one of those things where I can't see the reason you would halve the memory bandwidth to save like a dollar. Especially for some level of actual potential future-proofing by increasing memory bandwidth. You are looking at, real-world, less than $5 saved by getting a single 8GB vs 2x4GB of DDR3 1600 RAM. You can then step up to DDR3 1866 RAM for $10 more than 1600. There's really no reason to get a single stick vs two sticks.
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Apr 14, 2014 15:19
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Hmm, I think I can save $40 bucks by not getting a fan controller and buying the 4-pin 140mm fan for the rear mount and connecting it to the motherboard. Bigger fan is better than smaller, right? I was going to ask what the niftiest thing to stuff in a 5.25 bay was, but I figure I'm going to need one for whenever I get a video card and more fans. Do you think a solid front panel will cut down on noise/raise temperature appreciably?
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Apr 14, 2014 15:51
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ShaneB posted:They more or less do. It's just one of those things where I can't see the reason you would halve the memory bandwidth to save like a dollar. Especially for some level of actual potential future-proofing by increasing memory bandwidth. I certainly wouldn't recommend hat somebody go single-stick on purpose to save a piddling amount of money. But I also don't like the assertion that going single channel is a significant performance hit for average users without some benchmarks. I understand that the distinction probably isn't important and I might be getting a little  about this though.
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Apr 14, 2014 16:03
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I wish we hadn't had this conversation because now I want to get some DDR3-2133 from Microcenter and try to sell my old DDR3-1600 and probably spend like $45 for the pleasure of doing so. 
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Apr 14, 2014 16:55
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smelly cabin filter posted:Whats a safe overclock for a 4670k with a 212? I just enabled the auto overclock on my motherboard which bumped it upto 4.2 and upped the voltage a bit. Not seeing any difference in temperatures from standard and the thing seems stable, I should probably just leave it as is With my 212, I wouldn't put my voltage any higher than 1.256V, and even that's pushing it honestly. Currently I'm sitting on 4.2Ghz @ 1.20V, which is perfectly fine for me. My chip isn't the greatest, as it needs 1.256V just to reach 4.4ghz, and 1.29V for 4.5ghz. Hace fucked around with this message at 17:08 on Apr 14, 2014 |
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Apr 14, 2014 17:04
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I am getting a decent PC from selling my PS3 + some games, and looking at the specs it has an i3 and a 7870. Which would probably be the most pressing to upgrade for gaming? I was looking to replace the i3 with an i5, and the 7870 with a 770.
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Apr 14, 2014 18:20
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Fat_Cow posted:I am getting a decent PC from selling my PS3 + some games, and looking at the specs it has an i3 and a 7870. Which would probably be the most pressing to upgrade for gaming? I was looking to replace the i3 with an i5, and the 7870 with a 770. Your GPU is going to matter a lot more, if you are looking for bang for the buck.
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Apr 14, 2014 18:24
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Does anyone have any experience with the MSI Radeon R9 270 that could explain why I'm having to have it replaced because it wouldn't display? I couldn't even install the drivers for the thing, I kept getting error messages. It seemed like it didn't want to fit into my motherboard right if that means anything. It's an ASRock H87 Pro4 if that matters. I know it's an issue with the card because it works with the on board video. I already talked to Newegg and they're replacing it but I don't want to just get the same card again if it's not compatible for some reason (pcpartpicker didn't say it was though) PantsBandit fucked around with this message at 19:04 on Apr 14, 2014 |
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Apr 14, 2014 18:54
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Have you used a video card before? The very first thing I would check for is whether you are actually plugging your monitor into your new graphics card, or still plugging it into the onboard video. After that's checked off you might want to make sure there's nothing inside your PCI-E slot that would prevent good solid contact, as you mentioned it was tough to get in. Even a good amount of dust could be the culprit. After that you are pretty much looking at an RMA situation.
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Apr 14, 2014 19:22
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ASrock boards have weird retention mechanisms, too. There is like a piece of plastic that physically slides forward and backward to lock the cards into place. I broke one off removing a card without even realizing it was there.
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Apr 14, 2014 19:25
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It's definitely plugged into the card. I hope I didn't bust any pins because I had to really pull that thing to get it out at one point. I guess we'll see when I get the replacement how boned I am.ShaneB posted:ASrock boards have weird retention mechanisms, too. There is like a piece of plastic that physically slides forward and backward to lock the cards into place. I broke one off removing a card without even realizing it was there. I think that thing broke on my board too. Did it work without it or did you have to figure out a repair?
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Apr 14, 2014 19:28
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PantsBandit posted:It's definitely plugged into the card. I hope I didn't bust any pins because I had to really pull that thing to get it out at one point. I guess we'll see when I get the replacement how boned I am. Oh that's just a retention mechanism. It's not mission critical at all.
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Apr 14, 2014 19:30
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Cool thanks for the help guys. I'm really hoping it's just a DOA card but I'll know soon enough.
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Apr 14, 2014 19:31
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PantsBandit posted:Cool thanks for the help guys. I'm really hoping it's just a DOA card but I'll know soon enough. If your board is the culprit that will be the 2nd ASrock board in this thread in like 2 weeks that had PCI slot issues...
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Apr 14, 2014 19:34
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Hello friend is it bad if after replacing PSU and GPU, the cpu temps with stockcooler are idle at 50 degrees and get up to 84 in BF4? Googling it, some responses are like "don't sweat it until your cpu starts shutting the computer down due to overheating" but that doesn't sound right.
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Apr 14, 2014 19:48
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Not Al-Qaeda posted:Hello friend 84 is too hot for stock, remount it with new paste. If you can drop that 10 degrees I wouldn't worry edit: can anyone recommend me a good overclocking matx mobo that can sli? I'm making longer term plans and while I don't mind atx in the least, I don't want to keep matx out of the picture all things equal. The only focus I have is SLI compatibility and high quality power delivery. Probably a good audio chipset, but everything else I hardly use (3x sata max, bare minimum of USB ports). My mobo knowledge is sadly limited and something I traditionally just throw money at and hope for the best Ignoarints fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Apr 14, 2014 |
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Apr 14, 2014 19:49
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Ignoarints posted:84 is too hot for stock, remount it with new paste. If you can drop that 10 degrees I wouldn't worry Here's five that PCPartPicker gave me. (2-way SLI) I guess just pick whatever one you feel comfortable with/like the look of/want to spend the money on. I'm partial to Asus, but the ASRock one is ~40$ cheaper, if that's your thing.
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Apr 14, 2014 20:17
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Touchfuzzy posted:Here's five that PCPartPicker gave me. (2-way SLI) I guess just pick whatever one you feel comfortable with/like the look of/want to spend the money on. I'm partial to Asus, but the ASRock one is ~40$ cheaper, if that's your thing. If I take Asus for example, it's hard for me to determine the real practical differences between the Gryphon and Maximus VI gene, or even compared to like the ATX Sabertooth. Besides the obvious such as more sata ports and the like, and the shields (lol). The power delivery (at least the 8+2 part) seem the same... and the important slots seem the same.
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Apr 14, 2014 20:34
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I have a box with a 2500k in it that I'm using as a linux machine for programming and poo poo. No games. It has an old radeon HD4890 in there, but the linux drivers seem to be broken and it only has two monitor outputs (I want to start loving around with three). What's an inexpensive video card with 3+ outputs and good linux opengl support? Nvidia's linux drivers are a bit better supported than amd's, right?
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Apr 14, 2014 21:14
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Illusive gently caress Man posted:What's an inexpensive video card with 3+ outputs and good linux opengl support? Nvidia's linux drivers are a bit better supported than amd's, right? Correct, 750 or 750Ti is probably what you want, inexpensive and fairly good performance, they're up there on the price/performance curve so it's the best deal.
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Apr 14, 2014 21:18
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Speaking of that, is that the minimum level to run 3 screens 1080p with absolutely no games?
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Apr 14, 2014 21:22
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