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luscious posted:omg I love that bc apparently Sherlock loves me sooo much but I'm curious about the "whale eyes" (I need space) bc he comes and sits on me and does that. It is the kind of thing where it is a bad thing when paired with other signs of stress in a dog. Just like how a dog can yawn without feeling stressed, or turn and walk away cause they just want to, not because they are showing respect. The big picture all together is important, not just the individual components alone, if that makes sense?
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Apr 15, 2014 17:41
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According to the chart, my pup gets stressed daily. Is that normal and is there anything I can do to help reduce it?
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Apr 15, 2014 18:05
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ThatPazuzu posted:According to the chart, my pup gets stressed daily. Is that normal and is there anything I can do to help reduce it? Don't get too hung up on stress signals. It's good to be aware of them, but also keep in mind that day-to-day life is innately stressful for us too. Learning and working are innately stressful for dogs and people alike. If your dog is throwing off stress signals, it may be time to increase distance from whatever may be stressing him out, give him some quiet time or play a game of fetch to get those happy chemicals pumping. But consider the big picture and your dog's natural tendencies. Don't get too hung up on the minutia.
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Apr 15, 2014 18:09
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My dog just straight up hates playing dog games. He has no interest in fetch, no matter what object we play with, he has no interest in learning tricks. The only play he likes to do is to murder the hell out of his rope toy. Is this because I am bad at teaching him games, or do some dogs just not have any interest in them? The dogs I had as a kid never even had to be taught games, they'd just follow along with whatever you were doing, but Thor will ignore a thrown ball or toy even if you smear it with his favorite treats first.
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Apr 15, 2014 18:27
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LeftistMuslimObama posted:My dog just straight up hates playing dog games. He has no interest in fetch, no matter what object we play with, he has no interest in learning tricks. The only play he likes to do is to murder the hell out of his rope toy. Is this because I am bad at teaching him games, or do some dogs just not have any interest in them? The dogs I had as a kid never even had to be taught games, they'd just follow along with whatever you were doing, but Thor will ignore a thrown ball or toy even if you smear it with his favorite treats first. Some need to be taught. Some never really learn to love some games. Do you play tug with the rope toy? That sounds like some potentially good reinforcement for training and transferring value to other items.
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Apr 15, 2014 18:32
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Linus never really got fetch for his first six-to-twelve months. It took clicker training to get him to like it/play reliably. His recent obsession is Frisbee but only if it lands on its side and rolls in another direction. It's like crack. Some dogs don't understand/don't care/don't get your stereotypical dog games. Find the ones he enjoys and build off those. If he likes rope, use rope to build to tug. Once he loves tug, use tug to build to fetch.
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Apr 15, 2014 18:34
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Our dog is 3 months old now, and we've had her 2 weeks. It feels like we haven't made much progress on the house training. She regularly has accidents in the house (peed 3 times today) even though I am taking her out every 1-2 hours. She will go out, pee or poop, then 5 minutes later she will just pee in the house. When we take her out she goes pretty much right away, we praise her heavily (sometimes we give her food/treats also but I guess not consistently) and take her back inside. Sometimes when I take her out she will just pee a tiny little amount, and then she will pee inside the house later. I feel like she knows we like her to pee outside, but she doesn't understand really that we don't want her to pee inside. Yesterday I felt like we had a good moment - were playing and she broke it off to run and pee next to the front door. Still inside,but at least in the right direction.
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Apr 15, 2014 19:13
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I'm sure you've considered this, but just in case: what happens if you let her stay outside longer? How long does she wait until peeing in the house again? My dog sometimes pees and poops multiple times in the same trip.
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Apr 15, 2014 19:16
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beefnoodle posted:I'm sure you've considered this, but just in case: what happens if you let her stay outside longer? How long does she wait until peeing in the house again? My dog sometimes pees and poops multiple times in the same trip. Depends.. sometimes she will go again, other times she will want to play out there with me or just lie down on the grass and chew a stick. I work from home so I can't really justify waiting out there 10 minutes with her each time unfortunately 
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Apr 15, 2014 19:50
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GanjamonII posted:Depends.. sometimes she will go again, other times she will want to play out there with me or just lie down on the grass and chew a stick. I work from home so I can't really justify waiting out there 10 minutes with her each time unfortunately It actually took Sherlock some time to understand that going for a walk was when it was time to pee since it was mega cold in the winter and he couldn't last more than a few minutes before turning into a whimpering snivveling mess and we used pee pads on the balcony. Now he's good at both if I don't have the time to take him on a full walk during the day. If you can clean up her mess using a paper towel or something and then save it and place it outside so she smells pee outside then that might help. What ended up saving me and Sherlock was crating him for a long period of time (while I was working or overnight) and then taking him out immediately and basically waiting him out while watching him closely. Any time he even sprinkled some pee I would click and treat and make a HUGE deal of it (highest value treat: hotdogs or beef liver snacks) and eventually he caught on and now is a pro. It took a lot of patience but once he got it he was totally fine and now understands fully.
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Apr 15, 2014 20:04
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GanjamonII posted:Depends.. sometimes she will go again, other times she will want to play out there with me or just lie down on the grass and chew a stick. I work from home so I can't really justify waiting out there 10 minutes with her each time unfortunately Try walking with her instead of standing around in one spot. What is she doing when she potties inside? Where is she? Where are you? At 3 months it's pretty normal to still be having issues housebreaking, but you may benefit from supervising her more closely and when you can't do that, give her time in a crate or pen that's small enough that she won't soil an area of it. That your giving regular breaks is great, but the other half of the coin is that you need to control her when she's not on a potty break. If issues persist, consider a vet visit to check for a UTI. They're pretty common in puppies.
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Apr 15, 2014 20:05
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a life less posted:Try walking with her instead of standing around in one spot. What is she doing when she potties inside? Where is she? Where are you? At 3 months it's pretty normal to still be having issues housebreaking, but you may benefit from supervising her more closely and when you can't do that, give her time in a crate or pen that's small enough that she won't soil an area of it. That your giving regular breaks is great, but the other half of the coin is that you need to control her when she's not on a potty break. What she is doing - most anything. I usually keep her in her pen in the back room (tile floor) for a bit while she eats and then after the first bathroom break.. she pees in there regardless of whether I am in the room with her or not.. I rush to grab her and carry her out in those cases where I see it happening. Edit - I put her in the crate in the morning as she is a bit too playful often for me to get anything done. Crate is in my office. She doesn't pee in her crate except when she's super excited that we came home. I will play with her for a bit in the morning or lunch time when she sometimes just stops to pee on the spot. Afterwards when she's tuckered out she sleeps her afternoon nap under my desk or at my feet. She doesn't pee under my desk, and if she gets up to wander away I'll take her out and put her back in the crate after. When my wife and I are both home we usually let her roam the house but she mostly tends to stick near us.. if she wanders off one of us will follow her generally, but we have let her get away from us on a couple occasions.. where she peed. Also she gets so excited when my wife or I come home that she will often pee a little.. but that doesn't count I guess. edit - the paper towel thing is a good idea, I will try that next time she has an accident. She doesn't like walking really.. She is OK around our property but as soon as I try to take her down the street she stops and won't budge. Actually I've been picking her up carrying her a few houses down and walking back with her to show her there isn't anything scary down there. GanjamonII fucked around with this message at 20:21 on Apr 15, 2014 |
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Apr 15, 2014 20:19
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GanjamonII posted:What she is doing - most anything. Sounds like she's mainly peeing when there's activity or excitement. So plan your playtime so that it's preceded and followed by a trip outside, with no more than 15 minutes of uninterrupted play. Enforce quiet time in the crate for other times, and work up gradually.
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Apr 15, 2014 20:27
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GanjamonII posted:edit - the paper towel thing is a good idea, I will try that next time she has an accident. She doesn't like walking really.. She is OK around our property but as soon as I try to take her down the street she stops and won't budge. Actually I've been picking her up carrying her a few houses down and walking back with her to show her there isn't anything scary down there. I would stop picking her up like that. Try not to acknowledge her fear of moving around. If she senses that you're hesitant or your re-inforce her fears she'll expect to be picked up each time. Just keep walking forward and if you have to drag her for a few feet before she figures it out go for it. Also try walking around in front of your house and treat her every few feet. Eventually she'll forget why she's afraid. Nyx used to hate going past construction equipment but just plowing past it a few times without acknowledging it seemed to help. Also Nyx has a habit of just sniffing around the front yard instead of peeing now. I find I have to walk half a block to get her to go. So movement is probably key with your pup as well.
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Apr 15, 2014 20:38
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a life less posted:Some need to be taught. Some never really learn to love some games. Do you play tug with the rope toy? That sounds like some potentially good reinforcement for training and transferring value to other items. He is very enthusiastic about playing tug, but it's hard to tell if he's enjoying the game or if he just really wants the rope.
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Apr 15, 2014 22:10
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Big thank you to everyone who has helped me out so far. Day 4 with Riley. He seems to take routine very well which is good. He walks to the dog park my apartment has completely fine. He barely pulls and always walks the same way. I think it's because he knows the area pretty well. When we go on walks he is pretty stubborn, he stops frequently and is always pulling/keeping tension on the leash. I'm thinking this is because there are so many new smells for him to take in, and so many new places to mark his territory. What's the best solution? I don't want to pull on his neck. Right now I'm using a 4 ft leash so we stay close. Is that too short? Should I repeat the same trail for awhile to try and get him familiar with the area. In other news. After many tries, I was able to have him catch the stuffed cow in midair. Seemed to take a lot of energy out of him. When we got home he napped while I cooked dinner. Once we get this down pat I'll need to get him catching a disk 
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Apr 16, 2014 03:45
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Yeaaah Tater likes to stall and sniff around plenty on our walks. I bring a few treats as a 'get moving' type of deal, but if we're on a long walk I just bring headphones and double the time I think it'll take. It's like the smells put them in a parallel dimension or something we can't even fathom.
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Apr 16, 2014 05:34
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compton rear end terry posted:Big thank you to everyone who has helped me out so far. Couple of options that worked for me. 1. Buy a Gentle Leader/Halty. It'll take a little work to get the pup used to it but this is a surefire way to prevent him from tugging. 2. Treat incentive. If you do not want to go the Gentle Leader route, figure out which side you want the dog on. Fill that hand with treats and get your dogs attention. Hold your hand by your hip. Your dog should just eyeball your hand. Walk a bit like this and treat. Do this for small distances and slowly increase it. Eventually the dog will understand that walking next to you get's treats. Keep pushing for longer distances and eventually they get the idea. After doing this for 2 weeks Nyx is pretty good about staying at my side. She still goes all Puppy on me and pulls on the leash. I can simply put a treat in my hand and she's back at my side.
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Apr 16, 2014 14:21
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Sherlock discovered a way to pull with the Gentle Leader which is to literally turn his entire body diagonally and pull ahead using his body to brace against the leash. It's ridiculous.
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Apr 16, 2014 16:10
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luscious posted:Sherlock discovered a way to pull with the Gentle Leader which is to literally turn his entire body diagonally and pull ahead using his body to brace against the leash. It's ridiculous. Wow, that's determination. Try the top-connecting alternative one, the sporn?
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Apr 16, 2014 16:12
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pizzadog posted:Wow, that's determination. Try the top-connecting alternative one, the sporn? Nah, the problem is that he hasn't had much leash walking experience with me (he doesn't pull with his walker at all) and generally when he's with me and walking it's a time when he doesn't want to be. I have started doing loose leash walking exercises with him and noticed that he walked perfectly like ZERO PULLING when I was offering hotdogs as rewards so I feel that I have my answer  If I wasn't able to kick the pulling I would go to a Halty, tbh.
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Apr 16, 2014 16:14
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We recently had success with the Easy Walk front clip harness for our pup, Teagan. She's 50 lbs of solid muscle and if she wanted to get somewhere, she was. The front clip harness helps gain some more control over her but I also recommend treating the heck out of every step on the walk. Be sure to change directions a lot and encourage your dog to follow you rather than lead.
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Apr 16, 2014 20:01
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I'm struggling with our 3.5 month pup. He listens to my husband much better then me, who is super big and loud! I try to be firm, but not yell but I get completely ignored when working on any kind of training. Max is crated in the kitchen, and there's a gate so he has mainly full kitchen access. The outside door is also there. The problem is trying to cook dinner , or do laundry and he is constantly nipping my heels and clothes and he ignores me when I try to distract with toys or commands. I get so drat frustrated and just leave the room. We are doing training once a week but anything he has learned seems to go out the window when it's me practicing.
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Apr 16, 2014 22:25
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lazerwolf posted:We recently had success with the Easy Walk front clip harness for our pup, Teagan. She's 50 lbs of solid muscle and if she wanted to get somewhere, she was. The front clip harness helps gain some more control over her but I also recommend treating the heck out of every step on the walk. Be sure to change directions a lot and encourage your dog to follow you rather than lead. I was also going to recommend a front clip harness, but I was going to recommend the Wonder Walker instead(http://www.wonderwalkerbodyhalter.com/). I prefer it to the easy walk harness for a couple reasons: I like how it sits across my dogs chest and shoulders more, and it doesn't seem to restrict her movement in the shoulder like the EW does on other dogs I've seen, and unlike the EW, it has a front and back clip that you can use(the EW has a sort of martingale style clip on the front that I'm not crazy about and I've seen it fray through on a couple dogs). I like the option of a front and back clip because my puppy knows front clip = no pulling, back clip = pulling is okay. We use the back clip when we're at the park where I don't mind if she pulls because trying to enforce perfect manners would be frustrating to us both with tons of dogs, people, and other exciting things are around. kiriana posted:I'm struggling with our 3.5 month pup. He listens to my husband much better then me, who is super big and loud! I try to be firm, but not yell but I get completely ignored when working on any kind of training. Max is crated in the kitchen, and there's a gate so he has mainly full kitchen access. The outside door is also there. You shouldn't need to yell at your dog, he's just a puppy. What are you using to reward him with? Is he food motivated? If so, find a couple really delicious treats that he likes and use those when training. If he isn't try using a favorite toy to reward him. I can't help a ton with training specifics because I'm new to this myself, but I would start by using something really rewarding to him. Consider training him more than once a week? Kikopup does a good video on puppy biting here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c77--cCHPyU. Consider getting an xpen and put him there(or a crate) whenever you need to use that space. This isn't a solution, but it is a temporary thing you can do so he doesn't get to keep practicing bad behavior.
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Apr 17, 2014 06:54
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Sorry I should have been more specific. We have training classes once a week then practice the rest of the week. We try to do it throughout each day. He's food motivated sort of. He loves the stuff the trainer uses, so we buy it and it's meh. I think I will try getting some hot dogs if that's okay for his age. I will have to start crating him when I'm trying to work in the kitchen. Thank you for the ideas and suggestions
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Apr 17, 2014 12:13
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kiriana posted:I'm struggling with our 3.5 month pup. He listens to my husband much better then me, who is super big and loud! I try to be firm, but not yell but I get completely ignored when working on any kind of training. Max is crated in the kitchen, and there's a gate so he has mainly full kitchen access. The outside door is also there. You don't need to be big and loud for a dog to listen. You just have to be clear and consistent. Dogs are masters are pushing boundaries and knowing just how much you'll let them get away with. But also keep in mind, he's just a puppy. Use your best judgement on how clear exactly you're being to him, and how capable he is of doing as asked. Consider all behaviours the result of reinforcement. Some behaviours, like sitting outside the kitchen, are probably about a 1 on the scale. Coming into the kitchen to be with people is probably a 6 and biting and playing is an 8. Your work, once you understand how rewarding certain behaviours are/aren't for the dog is to make the correct behaviours super rewarding. Hanging out quietly behind a baby gate while you're in the kitchen should have treats rain from the sky. As the pup gets older you can train the dog to chill on a mat and make that super rewarding too. I would suggest start trick training with your dog. All obedience behaviours are tricks as far as the dog is concerned, but for handlers there's much less pressure since tricks aren't seen as important. It teaches you how to communicate with your pup, it teaches your pup how to get good stuff out of you, plus it tires the fucker right out. Start with easy stuff like spin, paw, roll over. Then you can graduate to the really fun stuff. Tricks are my favourite.
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Apr 17, 2014 12:23
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Psychobabble! posted:I like the option of a front and back clip because my puppy knows front clip = no pulling, back clip = pulling is okay. We use the back clip when we're at the park where I don't mind if she pulls because trying to enforce perfect manners would be frustrating to us both with tons of dogs, people, and other exciting things are around. Wouldn't you want to always encourage no pulling - especially in situations you're describing instead of encouraging them by not even employing the front clip in order to make them more annoying for her? In a way I think that if you're using front and back you might be doing it, er, backwards, yourself? Like you would train her to not pull in less stimulating and less exciting environments and since she isn't quite there with the stimulating and exciting environments you would use the front clip as a tool to prevent the pulling. Training that it's okay to pull on the back clip doesn't make any sense to me as it's enforcing a behaviour that is undoing the one that you are trying to teach simultaneously while the front clip specifically offers a built in un-reward.
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Apr 17, 2014 15:45
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Alright...so out of the dogs I'm looking at right now, there's some cute looking Red Nose Pit Bull puppies. Before I dived into getting one right away, I googled to see if they have issues like Bulldogs(since they both have similar names, you see) and I realized Pit Bulls are the kind they make laws about and ban on pain of death(for the poor dog). I've seen people angrily defending them, so I don't know if that's truly earned or just a false perception. How much would that be a problem and are they really dangerous?
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Apr 17, 2014 17:28
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WickedHate posted:Alright...so out of the dogs I'm looking at right now, there's some cute looking Red Nose Pit Bull puppies. Before I dived into getting one right away, I googled to see if they have issues like Bulldogs(since they both have similar names, you see) and I realized Pit Bulls are the kind they make laws about and ban on pain of death(for the poor dog). I've seen people angrily defending them, so I don't know if that's truly earned or just a false perception. How much would that be a problem and are they really dangerous? They are very cool dogs but not for the novice owner. I would highly recommend you keep looking. They have high prey drive, high energy, are often dog aggressive and strong. They can indeed be dangerous. Try again. Also, the breeder sounds like he's ignorant or manipulative because there's really no such thing as red nose/blue nose/whatever nose pits.
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Apr 17, 2014 18:29
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a life less posted:They are very cool dogs but not for the novice owner. I would highly recommend you keep looking. They have high prey drive, high energy, are often dog aggressive and strong. They can indeed be dangerous. Try again. Advice taken. Thanks, I'm glad I asked. I'm doing my best to be prepared as possible. Getting a dog I can handle is as much for the dog as anyone else. It's the same reason I passed on a really nice but also really sick corgi, as much as I wanted to help it I most likely aren't able to care for it like it'd need or be able to pay for extensive vet visits.
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Apr 17, 2014 19:46
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WickedHate posted:Advice taken. Thanks, I'm glad I asked. I'm doing my best to be prepared as possible. Getting a dog I can handle is as much for the dog as anyone else. It's the same reason I passed on a really nice but also really sick corgi, as much as I wanted to help it I most likely aren't able to care for it like it'd need or be able to pay for extensive vet visits. FWIW, I did a lot of planning and prep for my puppy and am super glad I did but half the stuff I ordered / bought went unused and he has taught me most of what I needed to know. I definitely recommend Ian Dunbar's books though as they gave me a LOT of insight that is invaluable.
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Apr 17, 2014 21:05
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How old should a puppy be before it's okay to leave them at home while you go to work?
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Apr 17, 2014 21:19
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Steve Yun posted:How old should a puppy be before it's okay to leave them at home while you go to work? Depends on the attitude of your puppy but Nyx is coming up to 1 year and can hold her bladder for a full 8-10 hours. However she is always jacked when we get home and we have to spend at least an hour running her around.
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Apr 17, 2014 21:51
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Steve Yun posted:How old should a puppy be before it's okay to leave them at home while you go to work? ^^ It really depends on the dog. My mother has a pit bull rescue mix that can reliably do 12 hours, which is crazy. Artemis and Jada can do 8-10 in a crate but I don't like leaving them that long. Both my mother and I use dog wallets l walkers during the day so they don't go that long. General rule of thumb is 1 hour per month old so a 4 month puppy shouldn't be expected to last more than 4 hours, even though they may do much better. That's also assuming you only are worried about potty accidents. If it's behavior it really is up to the dog. Rico we leave out all the time and he's fine but he's older. Artemis does OK whenever we test her, but Jada still trios to find everything she isn't supposed to have. The most recent casualty is the belt loop from my new suit and part of my also new belt. She might always be a trouble maker, but for the foreseeable future they will continue to be created until we are better able to anticipate and avoid incidents. Fake edit. ... Phone post don't mind spelling or grammar
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Apr 17, 2014 23:23
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Is it standard to be sort of freaking out a little on the first day? We've adopted a 17 week old lurcher, and he's snoozing in his crate in our room right now. He had a few accidents in the house, but he's also peed and pooped outside which got him a bunch of treats and praise, and he's even started to learn 'sit'. Even still, I'm sort of panicking and I don't know exactly why. I think I'm doing everything right- he ate in his crate, and sat in there happily with the door open, though he does keep coming up to us for attention, and when I shut the door he whined, so I took him out til he peed, then put him back in the crate with a chew bone and a water dish. He whined for a little while but now he's sleeping. As far as I've read, this is all right, but yeah, panicking.
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Apr 18, 2014 01:13
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You're panicking because raising a dog us exciting and stressful. But you sound like a good dog owner to me.  But I have a question myself. I bought a lot of the dog food my vet recommended. It's supposed to be very good for him but he barely eats it. He has a healthy appetite but he just doesn't like what I'm giving him. Is there any way I can encourage him to eat more or do I just have to buy new food?
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Apr 18, 2014 02:21
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ThatPazuzu posted:You're panicking because raising a dog us exciting and stressful. But you sound like a good dog owner to me. He should get used to it. If it's a recent change, he might just need some time. I don't think he'll starve himself, just give him meals on schedule and he'll get the picture. If it's a younger puppy and he doesn't eat, maybe give him another opportunity before too long. If Jada doesn't eat a meal at this point, she just waits until next time. My fiance would add beef broth, or apples, or treats, or peanut butter or whatever when she'd skip a meal, and she got so accustomed to it that she wouldn't eat anything unless we added stuff to it. It took some time before she broke that habit but now she is really good about eating when it's time.
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Apr 18, 2014 02:48
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We got our dog! Her name is JoJo. She's so cute and sweet, but really shy and skittish too. The breeder(different then the one that said they had Red Nose Pits, for the record) seemed fine, but now we're not sure. She really leaped at the first food we gave her and completely obliterated it like she was starving. Still, I'm going to be doing my very best for her and give her the very best love and care. She's a beautiful, sweet Pyrenees and Anatolian mix. WickedHate fucked around with this message at 03:46 on Apr 18, 2014 |
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Apr 18, 2014 03:33
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WickedHate posted:She really leaped at the first food we gave her and completely obliterated it like she was starving. This is the result of a condition known as "being a puppy" from what I understand.
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Apr 18, 2014 03:44
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Cythereal posted:This is the result of a condition known as "being a puppy" from what I understand. Well, this is my first one, so it's new to me.
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Apr 18, 2014 03:45
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