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Try a mini hacksaw, like this?
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Apr 16, 2014 21:16
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I used one just like that. The small space available to fit it in there tapers down to where the screw fastens the chassis to the enclosure, being flush enough such that the blade can't fit next to the screw. I'm gonna take a chance on the hollow extractor.
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Apr 16, 2014 22:30
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Chalets the Baka posted:I used one just like that. The small space available to fit it in there tapers down to where the screw fastens the chassis to the enclosure, being flush enough such that the blade can't fit next to the screw. I'm gonna take a chance on the hollow extractor. Is there a chance you could throw another screw into it externally at a right angle to hold it together? If that screw isn't working from it's original positionand you can't extract it replace it, maybe there's another way to fasten it properly togheter?
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Apr 16, 2014 23:24
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How decent are red knob "The Twin" early 90s Fenders? There's one on the local Craigslist for $450, seems like a solid deal.
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Apr 17, 2014 02:58
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HollisBrown posted:How decent are red knob "The Twin" early 90s Fenders? There's one on the local Craigslist for $450, seems like a solid deal. Very good. Designed by Paul Rivera, solidly built, sound pretty excellent. They can also do higher gain stuff if you're into that. E: Super super crazy loving loud, even compared to a Twin Reverb Declan MacManus fucked around with this message at 03:22 on Apr 17, 2014 |
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Apr 17, 2014 03:18
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Very loud, but it has a Lo/Hi output switch that drops it to 25 watts, which is still pretty loud, and you can pull two tubes to drop it even further to ~12.5 watts. Weak reverb, although that might be just mine. Heavy, I hauled it up a flight of stairs and dread the day I have to do it again. I got mine for $250 a few months back, which I thought was a steal. Over the weekend I picked up a Teisco Checkmate 10 solid state amp for $12, sold as "not tested" which told me it wasn't working, but I needed a project. Get it home, all it does is hum when the power is turned on. Oh, and the power switch is the tone control, which does change the tone of the hum. Unplug, pop it open, and it's 120 volts straight to the circuit with ~10 caps, ~10 resistors, one transistor, and a transformer that's mounted on the speaker. And a two-prong power cord. This is going to be fun with a high possibility of electrocution.
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Apr 17, 2014 04:12
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What's everyone using for attenuators these days? I've been looking long and hard at ordering a Weber Mass 100 or Mass 200. The 200 would cover everything from my VT22 down, but the Mass 100 has more controls and would work well with all of my amps except the VT22... If anyone here has a Mass 100, do you get a lot of use out of the control options? Decisions decisions. 
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Apr 17, 2014 06:18
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nrr posted:Is there a chance you could throw another screw into it externally at a right angle to hold it together? If that screw isn't working from it's original positionand you can't extract it replace it, maybe there's another way to fasten it properly togheter? The problem is that the screw was broken off by the original owner and is stuck deep inside, preventing me from taking apart the amp. If I can get this screw out, I won't need to replace it because it is just one of many that holds the thing together. The trick at this point is extracting it without causing severe cosmetic damage.
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Apr 17, 2014 15:51
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HollisBrown posted:How decent are red knob "The Twin" early 90s Fenders? There's one on the local Craigslist for $450, seems like a solid deal.
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Apr 17, 2014 16:14
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Just ordered a solid state Weber Copper Cap 5AR4 replacement to future-proof the V3 a little bit. Hooray!  Edit:  
XYZAB fucked around with this message at 11:27 on Apr 18, 2014 |
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Apr 17, 2014 22:59
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Feeling an urge to pair my OR15 with an amp focused on having great cleans + perfect platform for pedals (mostly fuzz). What should I look around at? Lunchbox style + under $1k would be perfect but ehhh, doesn't really matter. Just trying to get ideas on more ways I can go poor later this year!
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Apr 18, 2014 04:44
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Anyone have any experience with Hayden amplifiers? I'm looking at a Mini Mofo 15W, just wondering if it sounds as good as it does in videos.
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Apr 18, 2014 22:39
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is it warranted that I was visually upset? Went to the local music store to get a one spot daisy chain adapter(which they didn't have) and the dude tried to sell me an amazing amp... Line 6 Spider II  I tried to be polite but then he tried to sell me a hybrid amp and told me that I would have to let the preamp tubes to warm up. I just walked out.
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Apr 20, 2014 18:11
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Storage. I have to sore my amp for 6 mos to a year. It is a kick-rear end Peavey Deuce. How can I prepare it for storage? Should I remove the tubes? Thow some desiccant packs in the thing? Remove the speakers and store them separately? I don't want to gently caress this up. Any suggestions? When I think about being super safe about it, I think wrapping it in a thick blanket with some desiccant packs but I am also worried about the speaker cones' integrity. Probably midrange humidity, garage situation.
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Apr 22, 2014 04:01
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Infomaniac posted:Storage. As long as you're storing it in a climate-controlled location, it'll be fine. Seriously.
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Apr 22, 2014 05:16
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I'm a bass player whose band has become a tad inactive because of people becoming parents. To keep my musical urges satisfied, I decided to buy a second-hand Squier Classic Vibe Telecaster Custom and started practicing the wonders of the six-string at home. Now, playing an electric guitar acoustically is not the most optimal solution for a person accustomed to standing next to Ampeg cabs, so some amplification would be nice. On the other hand, the other tenants wouldn't probably enjoy my clumsy chord changes, so I'd rather get a small 5 to 15 watt combo with a headphone input jack option. So, what kind of good-sounding practice amps are there for guitar? This question has possibly been raised a thousand times in this thread and the most common answer may be "try it for yourself at a store", but since I'm not that well-versed in guitar gear as I am in bass gear, I'd rather get some opinions. Some browsing and googling has lead me to believe that Fender Mustang I would possibly be a good choice for me along with Blackstar HT-5R and maybe even Peavey Vypyr VIP. However, I'm leaning towards the Mustang because of the sound clips I've listened to online, and the fact that the latter two are marketed more towards pasty white metal players. In general, I'm more into 70s creamy and bluesy tones rather than ridiculous, buzzsaw overdrive. I've also been eyeing Fender Super Champ X2, but sadly it doesn't seem to have a headphone plugin, which is kind of a deal-breaker. On the other hand, I could get a headphone tap, but I'm not sure if it is worth the extra hazzle. As a sidenote, someone was selling Fender Excelsior under 200 euros locally. If I only lived in the wilderness or at least in a separate house, I would've bought it instantly. These Loving Eyes fucked around with this message at 16:34 on Apr 22, 2014 |
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Apr 22, 2014 15:02
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It sounds like the Mustang I is right up your alley.
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Apr 22, 2014 15:17
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Mustang 1 sounds pretty good as an amp but the headphone output sounds like rear end. I use one of about a zillion iPhone or iPad apps along with an iRig or whatever and it does a much better job. I also have a VOX "classic rock" Amplug that sounds OK. Of course I rarely use any headphone amp if I can avoid it, playing guitar though a loud amp is like good sex, playing guitar through a headphone amp is like jerking off with a condom.
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Apr 22, 2014 15:25
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Remulak posted:playing guitar through a headphone amp is like jerking off with a condom. Perfect analogy, thank you.
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Apr 22, 2014 15:33
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To continue the analogy, playing a guitar through a quiet amp is like masturbating to bad porn, it's not as good as the real thing but much better than the alternatives.
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Apr 22, 2014 17:42
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umalt posted:To continue the analogy, playing a guitar through a quiet amp is like masturbating to bad porn, it's not as good as the real thing but much better than the alternatives. What are the alternatives to masturbating to bad porn? Not masturbating at all? Masturbating without any visual stimuli? And worry not my friends, I can use our guitarist's equipment at our rehearsal space almost whenever I want, but it's a bit of a nuisance to drag my rear end over there just for some ex tempore, incompetent blues noodling. In other words, I put out a wanted ad for a Mustang I in a national musical gear trade site. These Loving Eyes fucked around with this message at 18:11 on Apr 22, 2014 |
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Apr 22, 2014 17:51
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You can get good guitar tone and jam the gently caress out without cranking a 30 watt amp. Like, there's a whole revolution of small amps out there that sound great
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Apr 22, 2014 23:26
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Declan MacManus posted:You can get good guitar tone and jam the gently caress out without cranking a 30 watt amp. Like, there's a whole revolution of small amps out there that sound great I don't get out of bed for less than 100w 
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Apr 23, 2014 01:52
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I am thinking about picking up some Yellow Jacket adapters to run my THD Univalve with an EL84 or a 6V6 to cut down on how far I have to pull its Hot Plate back to get a comfortable volume with the tubes still nice and cooking; right now, by my figures it's putting out about 16-17W with the 6L6 configuration in it, on the High Voltage setting (finding modern-made 6L6 tubes that don't just pop themselves and the fuse when used in that mode is a pain in the rear end, by the way, but worth it!). I probably ought to stick a less efficient speaker in the cab I'm using, frankly, as it stands it's already hitting an average over all audible guitar freqs of >98dB at 1W, and the preamp has two modes, one of which only uses half of the tubes' actual innards - if I run it full bore, god drat is this a loud fuckin' setup. True Class A is loud as poo poo for the ostensible wattage, it just is, but even so, you would not think a cathode biased 15W amp (which, again, I'm fairly sure is running maybe as high as 18W, what little difference that makes) could be this friggin' loud. 1W is loud, 10W is really loud, 100W is jesus christ why do you need this, 1000W is that bizarre Crate monstrosity that they stunt-made for the sake of saying "look what we can do  "The relationship between wattage and efficiency and perceived volume strongly favors low wattage amps. The relationship between my broke rear end back and what I can safely lift up to move around strongly favors this THD Univalve (although, hey, maybe I ought to get one of those Vox Night Train lunchbox amps or an Orange like it - their transformers are not NEARLY as overbuilt as this one, I think they weigh about half of what it does... THD products are just unbelievably well made). Anyone have suggestions for lower efficiency speakers that sound great? I have an old hookup at WGS so I can try pretty much whatever from them so long as I only cash that favor in once, but I've heard good things about Eminence's lineup of higher wattage, lower efficiency speakers too. But I get ahead of myself, I am soliciting opinions and would appreciate whatever you've got. For reference, the cab is pretty much a closed-back 1x12 with the exact same dimensions as a Soldano 1x12; it's roomy inside but very powerful with lots of projection. Couples to the floor very well. Wattage is not really a problem, I won't ever run anything higher than ~18W through it and very likely it'll be lower than that. Think 15W-ish, most probably (it is seriously hard to find my preferred tubes that will run at the appropriate high voltage with this thing, I may have to run at low V instead - still sounds fine, just less headroom and less output, though that's more nominal than meaningful; moving from .5W to 3W is a big deal, moving from 15W to ~18W is not). Agreed fucked around with this message at 05:43 on Apr 23, 2014 |
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Apr 23, 2014 05:38
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Agreed posted:Anyone have suggestions for lower efficiency speakers that sound great?
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Apr 23, 2014 06:18
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Agreed posted:Think 15W-ish, most probably (it is seriously hard to find my preferred tubes that will run at the appropriate high voltage with this thing, I may have to run at low V instead - still sounds fine, just less headroom and less output, though that's more nominal than meaningful; moving from .5W to 3W is a big deal, moving from 15W to ~18W is not). I was going to say the Jensen Jet Blackbird but it's a 100W speaker but that's more so you could be my guinea pig b/c it sounds head-and-shoulders above other loudspeakers in YouTube shootouts but augh it's spency
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Apr 23, 2014 06:34
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iostream.h posted:Throwing something in the mail for you tomorrow. Oh god it's not poop in a box is it?! I hope it isn't, I can't handle that a forth time, lord help me. Schlieren, yeeeah, that's probably more than I'm after and I trust youtube less for speaker demonstrations than for literally any other thing. So many variables go into that, and then you've got Youtube's algorithm for content delivery mucking around with it... I understand they've dialed it back in the higher bitrate options but not enough that I feel like I can count on it. Nonetheless, what have you heard about them? Assuming iostream isn't about to just be a slick motherfucker and blow my mind, I'm interested in hearing about all sorts of stuff. The last time I actively hunted out speakers was in 2009 or so, and there must have been some products released between then and now, yeah?  More than I'm after only in the sense that it costs rather a lot, heh. Generally speaking, high wattage speakers with low wattage amplifiers is not a problem at all for practical use. They're already moving a LOT by the time you get up to 1W RMS, and 10W RMS ought to roughly double the perceived volume and get plenty of cone movement going on. There do exist some very high wattage speakers with very low sensitivity that sound a bit too brick-wallish if they aren't fed at least a solid amount of their rated wattage, but even high wattage speakers with massive magnets can get a ton of air moving with just one watt - EVM 12Ls, for another very spendy speaker example, can handle 200W and that's no poo poo, they're probably marginally underrated if anything, but feed them a nice steady 1W RMS and they're loud as hell across most of the guitar spectrum, and up it to just 4W or so and the bass fills out really nicely too. By 10W you're hearing a killer sounding speaker and if someone didn't know you were using a lower powered amp I sincerely doubt they'd be able to guess it based on the sound. This is all especially true, in my experience, with class A power amps, which just push so easily - steady and powerful, regardless of wattage. I know it shouldn't be the case, but a 15W Class A amp sounds a little louder to me than a comparably well made 30W Class A/B amp. Even though the power handoff is done elegantly in most cases, there's just a very stable quality to the power that a good class A amp puts out that makes it sound powerful even if it isn't objectively as capable of the same peak wattage as a higher wattage amplifier. Plus, THDs are just overbuilt from input to output. Chrissakes they've got a transformer isolated line-out that comes AFTER the power section. If you want, you could run the whole thing as a really expensive, tremendously unwieldy, badass distortion box. Just because.  THD so much 
Agreed fucked around with this message at 07:24 on Apr 23, 2014 |
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Apr 23, 2014 07:12
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To answer your question, I'd probably try the Green Beret from WGS (or a Reaper if you're looking for later cone breakup and/or more crunch) or if you really want to get into underpowered, Vox-y territory and you've got cash to blow (or it's a really, really good favor) I'd recommend the Black and Blue 15 watt. And yes, THDs are totally rad 
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Apr 23, 2014 16:17
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Agreed posted:Oh god it's not poop in a box is it?! I hope it isn't, I can't handle that a forth time, lord help me. Agreed posted:Assuming iostream isn't about to just be a slick motherfucker and blow my mind  In all seriousness, I'm about to list a bunch of crap to just get rid of, I've got so many odds and ends that I'll never ever use or repair or get around to dealing with crazy people on Craigslist that I'd just rather say 'hey, if one of you guys want/need it, let me know and I'll send it to you please post a cool pic of you abusing/blending it tia' I need to send some poo poo speakers to the guy who exploded his neighbor's tv's with the 110v cable killer and see what happens. Since I'm still on 'bed rest' and not being allowed to practice the current project of the day is figuring out if: A: Modifying an old 1960 cab for 2x10+2x12 speakers and deciding if I want them in an X or A/B configuration. B: Deciding if I want to hack it in half and make a 'modular' cab setup that's basically 2 1x10/1x12 or a pair of 2x10/2x12 cabs that latch together somehow and have an electrical connector. C: Which 10's to go with either Alnico Blues or Eminence Cannabis Rex or 1/ea I dunno o God help fuuu D: Something Else I'm bored and have a sawsall and screwgun and soldering iron plz advise
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Apr 23, 2014 16:47
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In no particular order: 1 of each, x configuration always x configuration, add some series/parallel switches on your guitars, don't bother.
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Apr 23, 2014 18:05
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Brothers, can we talk about effects loops for a moment? I currently own three amps: Carvin MTS3212, Orange OR15, and recently a Mesa Recto-Verb 25. All of which have tube-driven effects loops, and none of which seem to be "compatible" which my true bypass effects. Simply having TB effects in the loops causes an incredible amount of hiss and, once the effect is engaged, a loud pop. Adding a buffered pedal does not alleviate any of this (though buffered effects work fine on their own) and I've checked my cables and power supplies. Is this a thing? Is there something I'm missing? I have a couple pedals I'd really like in the loop rather than out front and I just can't seem to find a solution here.
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Apr 25, 2014 20:28
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Driving so can't look up please post levels of your loops please I suspect I know the issue.
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Apr 25, 2014 20:32
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My OR15 has a little hiss/noise all the time but I've got 3 true bypass pedals through the loop and they don't affect anything. One pedal has a noisy switch when shutting it off but the rest are totally silent.
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Apr 25, 2014 21:21
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Turkey Farts posted:Brothers, can we talk about effects loops for a moment? I currently own three amps: Carvin MTS3212, Orange OR15, and recently a Mesa Recto-Verb 25. All of which have tube-driven effects loops, and none of which seem to be "compatible" which my true bypass effects. Simply having TB effects in the loops causes an incredible amount of hiss and, once the effect is engaged, a loud pop. Adding a buffered pedal does not alleviate any of this (though buffered effects work fine on their own) and I've checked my cables and power supplies.
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Apr 25, 2014 21:38
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I played a Marshall JVCM215C today. It made every guitar sound amazing. Even a $99 Epiphone P90 special. Gives the classic marshall sound at bedroom levels. I want that sound in a cheaper package. Don't need 50 watts, multiple channels, or a big EQ.
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Apr 26, 2014 01:48
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Budget?
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Apr 26, 2014 02:48
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What about the JVM1? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NpHGwYOlhuk Maybe the Dark Terror would be good for you too, they can reach close to the same levels of gain, and there's barely any knobs to fuss with. The Randall RD1 and 5 are also little monsters from the clips floating out there. fappenmeister fucked around with this message at 10:43 on Apr 26, 2014 |
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Apr 26, 2014 10:38
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iostream.h posted:OK, I'm not running over nuns while texting anymore so, I'm curious what pedals you're using in your loop. I'm going to check out the loop stats on those amps as well real quick. At the moment I'm limited to a Mobius and an Empress Tape Delay. I'm certainly not complaining. Some of the pedals that aren't jiving, however, are my EQD Grand Orbiter and Disaster Transport, Red Witch Moon Phaser, and Malekko Ekko 616. The Malekko's interesting because it has a switch for TB and buffered, yet it is troublesome in both modes. I looked up the specs for my amps and couldn't find any helpful information about the loops other than the type of tube they're using (12AX7 in the Mesa and Carvin, 12AT7 in the Orange). Instrument level would make the most sense in terms of compatibility, but given that the signal is post-preamp I'm thinking it might be line level (might also explain the excessive noise). In which case, what good is that to me? 
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Apr 26, 2014 17:15
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ChocNitty posted:I played a Marshall JVCM215C today. It made every guitar sound amazing. Even a $99 Epiphone P90 special. Gives the classic marshall sound at bedroom levels. I had a JVM410C, but sold it to get something more portable. I've bought a Jet City JCA22H and a Harley Benton 2x12 cab with V30's, and I think it sounds much better at the sound levels I play at.
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Apr 26, 2014 23:29
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Boz0r posted:I had a JVM410C, but sold it to get something more portable. I've bought a Jet City JCA22H and a Harley Benton 2x12 cab with V30's, and I think it sounds much better at the sound levels I play at. I've got the 22H as well and I'm loading a 2x12 with some WharehouseGS Veteran30s as well. Same boat as you though - the sound at the volumes I need.
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Apr 27, 2014 16:58
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