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Dead Pressed posted:Any recommendation on chainsaw and/or a firewood splitter? Just looking for something to ease in the creation of seasonal firewood for a firepit---not to heat my house or anything. Stihl or Dolmar (Makita). Don't buy from a box store, buy from what ever local dealer gives you the best deal/service.
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Apr 13, 2014 18:03
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See, I totally disagree with that on account of the provided context: yes, there are better brands, but he's not looking to become a lumberjack, he just wants to make some firewood here and there. A little poulon or whatever will do just fine, while still staying out of the Harbor Freight category.
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Apr 13, 2014 19:05
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The irony here is you can actually get a Poulan from Harbor Freight that you can use the ubiquitous 25% off coupon for: http://www.harborfreight.com/42cc-18-in-gas-chain-saw-60729.html
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Apr 13, 2014 19:53
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Ah, well, there you go. But yeah, there's "available AT Harbor Freight" and "of Harbor Freight quality" which CAN be two different things. In general. the best way to avoid the confluence of the two is to not buy no-name products at HF.  I definitely won't argue that poulon isn't a bargain-brand, but it's a bargain brand at HD/Lowe's (for what that's worth). It's probably top shelf at HF.
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Apr 13, 2014 19:57
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Super Waffle posted:Is this a good a deal as it seems? M18 RED Lithium Drill/Driver and Hackzall, two batteries, and a carrying case: If you haven't picked this set up yet, grab it fast. The drill and batteries alone are worth that, so it'll be like getting a free Hackzall. I still can't say enough good things about my M18 drill...I beat the poo poo out of that poor thing and it just keeps on going strong.
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Apr 13, 2014 21:42
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I personally would spend the extra dough for brushless
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Apr 14, 2014 00:29
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Acid Reflux posted:If you haven't picked this set up yet, grab it fast. The drill and batteries alone are worth that, so it'll be like getting a free Hackzall. I still can't say enough good things about my M18 drill...I beat the poo poo out of that poor thing and it just keeps on going strong. No kidding, M18 Batteries are like $100 alone, so two tools and two batteries is a steal. Jump on it man.
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Apr 14, 2014 02:44
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I didn't jump on it  Back up to $200
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Apr 15, 2014 00:44
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Xposting from the quick fix thread: Any machinists lurking about? Is this a surface gauge? Anyone recognize it or know where to find one similar? The surface gauges I've been able to source out have been more puny. 
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Apr 16, 2014 01:14
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dwoloz posted:Ive heard the saw stops can be inadvertently triggered by wet wood or metal. True? I mostly missed the sawstop chat! To verify the answer, yes. Usually it has to be something bigger than just a brad nail or staple but I try not to run that crap through my tablesaw anyway for sake of my blade. Wet wood is a pretty non-issue in my home tests, I finally got it to register (you can disable the feature and the lights will tell you if it would have triggered) by leaving a 2x4 in a puddle of water for a couple hours and running that through. If there's ever a question about it especially green wood or if I'm for some reason (laziness and my bandsaw has the wrong blade on) prepping an especially green piece of turning wood, I'll pop it into the ignore mode.
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Apr 16, 2014 02:31
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TheBigBad posted:Xposting from the quick fix thread: Looks like a height gauge. 
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Apr 16, 2014 05:31
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So, air vs. electric tools? Currently building a house and garage and I want to start building up my tool collection. Question is if I should go for air or electric tools. My dad says electric but I'm kinda leaning towards air tools. Seems to me that air tool are smaller, stronger and more durable than their electric counterparts. Downside is they require a compressor and are thus less mobile, to me this doesn't seem like a huge hurdle, one of my first purchases is gonna be a compressor anyway.
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Apr 16, 2014 09:13
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Start with air. Good air tools are around the same price per tool and last decades longer than the currently best Makita and Milwaukee battery tools. e: I guess I'm thinking about just working on cars/equipment in the garage and impacts/air ratchets/grinders/etc. If you're talking about actually building a house and garage and electric vs air for that purpose, I'd get battery tools. Still would need air nailers, but little compressors for that are cheap anyway. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 09:34 on Apr 16, 2014 |
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Apr 16, 2014 09:31
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His Divine Shadow posted:So, air vs. electric tools? Currently building a house and garage and I want to start building up my tool collection. Question is if I should go for air or electric tools. You won't get electrocuted by an air tool and there's no recharge time, unless you are taxing your compressor. And batteries wear out. If you're talking corded electric, air is better because (at least in my experience) air lines don't come unplugged or break as often as extension cords when treated the same. Don't bother with the cheap lovely air hoses, get the semi transparent ones with the braided nylon in them, they're great: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Amflo-1-4-in-x-50-ft-Premium-Polyurethane-Air-Hose-with-Field-Repairable-Ends-and-Fittings-16-50E/202205321 Also, get these swivel fittings to install on any tool you're going to be using a lot, like a frame nailer or roofing nailer: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hitachi-1-4-in-x-1-4-in-NPTF-to-NPTM-Uni-Swivel-Fitting-192141/203677138?N=5yc1vZc29mZ1z10z94 It's an expensive fitting to buy, but when I was using a cheap lovely air hose with my framing nailer to do new sheathing on my roof, I had the hose fail right by the fitting half a dozen times before I installed one of those on the nailer. It failed only once after that (the crummy hoses really don't like the cold...) and I replaced the hose with the one I linked above. Zero problems since then. Totally worth it. Oh, oil your tools and compressor when they say to and drain the tank regularly.
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Apr 16, 2014 16:37
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I would go with electric starting out. Getting out an extension cord and drill out for a small project is easier than with air tools. Although, if you are building your house with your own two hands, you'll probably end up needing both. "Honey, can you hang this towel rack?" "Sure, let me set up my compressor in the living room and run a hose whip up to the bathroom so I can zip two screws into the wall."
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Apr 16, 2014 22:42
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Yeah, I love my air orbital sander, impact wrench and die grinder...but I sure as hell don't want an air-powered drill or impact driver for general house/car/bike/handyman work. Way more convenient to use something battery-powered for that.
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Apr 17, 2014 00:54
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air tools are for big work, overkill for around the house type poo poo
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Apr 17, 2014 01:29
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I'm definitely not suggesting an air drill or anything of that sort, a $100 electric drill is perfectly fine for 99% of tasks. But if you're literally building a house, you're going to need a nailer (honestly, a framing nailer, a roofing nailer, and if you have money for it, a palm nailer, they're awesome) and a few other things that are really best as an air tool.
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Apr 17, 2014 01:31
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i bought a paslode cordless framing nailer (runs on little propane things) and it's great
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Apr 17, 2014 05:39
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WashinMyGoat posted:I would go with electric starting out. Getting out an extension cord and drill out for a small project is easier than with air tools. Although, if you are building your house with your own two hands, you'll probably end up needing both. I got some electric stuff already, small stuff like a dremel and a bosh circular saw. I got a pretty kickass old electric drill from my dad that he took home from work in the 80s, strong & durable as all gently caress. But I don't think that's the kinda quality you get in stores anymore. For work in my future garage I kinda think I will want to focus on air driven stuff though. I am not actually building the house, it's done by professionals, I am building stuff like a woodshed and saw horse right now. I am not planning to go out and buy a shitload of tools right now either, I am instead thinking what direction will I go in? Will I build my future tool collection around air or electric? Air is winning ATM. I'll acquire tools as I need them. But I am thinking about a span of decades here. I've borrowed my dads compressor and a nail gun for the moment, but the nailgun uses too small nails for my purposes, thinking about buying a larger one but which type. Based on the nails the builders used they have some kind of 21 degree model, possibly propane driven based on all the gas tubes lying around on the yard. Apparently the 34 degree models are the most "pro", while the 21 degree models are most common and easiest to find nails for. I got a 5000 euro gift card to a hardware store when I bought my house package so I was thinking I'd get a compressor and nail gun from there. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 07:48 on Apr 17, 2014 |
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Apr 17, 2014 07:41
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Based on what I've read up on english terminology I am looking for a framing nailer. Gas cartridge driven ones look cool, but I think I prefer a compressor model.
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Apr 17, 2014 08:08
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When thinking about investing for the span of decades, think about technology over time. Battery technology changes and will become obsolete. I have a pile of electric batteries right now that will go bad eventually and will be unavailable on the market. I don't have space for air tools right now, but when I do, I'll be sure to include an air-powered backbone.His Divine Shadow posted:I got a 5000 euro gift card to a hardware store when I bought my house package so I was thinking I'd get a compressor and nail gun from there.
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Apr 17, 2014 12:53
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Yeah though we already used up nearly 2k in materials for the house (materials like tiles and klinkers and stuff) I'm sorta hesitant to use it to just shop whatever I want until the major houise expenses are done. Painting is likely to be 1k+ in materials. But I will have use for a solid framing nailer, will be putting up a lot of dry wall in the garage soon too.
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Apr 17, 2014 13:45
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If you're doing a lot of drywall, you want a good drywall screwgun. I hope you weren't planning on using a framing nailer to do the drywall, just the framing behind it...
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Apr 17, 2014 15:10
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I need to pick up a few power tools for general homeowner type duties. I'm borrowing some tools from a friend right now and they're great, but I don't have the money to purchase the same gear as he has so I need to decide. Upcoming projects: - Install ceiling fans and install exhaust fans (will need to cut 2x4s to support) - replace some baseboards (miter saw.. I have a handsaw/miter box but its not big enough to do 5" tall baseboards) - Re-do some fencing (bunch of cutting poo poo here, not sure yet of what dimensions etc) - Redo the base of a hot tub (plywood) - Build an overhang type thing to go over the laundry door (2x4, plywood and shingles probably) - future - replace majority of the current deck with brick patio, and rebuild maybe one section of existing deck. - Repairing a door frame which has some rot at the bottom. - Random wood cutting stuff I'd also like to in the future learn how to make some basic furniture pieces (shelving, cat tower thing, maybe a wood/iron coffee table) So far based on the tools I've borrowed I am thinking: - 18v cordless drill. I have 12v cordless borrowed from father in law, and a corded power drill and the 18v drill I've borrowed is so much more convenient than the corded drill I'm willing to shell out on that basis alone. The 12v would be cheaper but it just hasn't had the power to do some of the jobs I've done so far (removing tapcon screws from concrete for example). - Sliding compound miter saw. Borrowed a regular miter saw and its great, except that its limited in the width of wood it will cut due to not sliding. I am thinking a 10" blade is sufficient for my purposes. - Circular saw for cutting plywood. The one I borrowed is cordless but this doesn't matter so much to me for this particular tool. - I am thinking about one of those oscillating tools to cut out rotted part of a door frame after watching a youtube video on how to perform that repair. This I wouldn't really expect to use much.. may just get a harbor freight deal. - I was half thinking about a harbor freight sawzall because its like $30, and my buddy has one. Would be useful to take apart the remaining decking, most of which so far as been done by hand with crowbar and 12v drill. Does this sound reasonable? Is ryobi a decent entry level brand? For the miter saw I'm looking at this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-13-Amp-10-in-Sliding-Compound-Miter-Saw-with-Laser-TSS101L/202049523 I saw this combo which would knock out circular saw (cordless though), reciprocating saw and drill with two batteries for $160. I dont know if I trust the circular saw and reciprocating saw as the circular saw I've borrowed burns through the battery like crazy. I'm still thinking about whether to just buy a corded one and buy the drill separately. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-One-Plus-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Super-Combo-Kit-4-Tool-P883/203466914#specifications Oscillating tool: http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/oscillating-tools/oscillating-multifunction-power-tool-60428.html Does this sound like a reasonable starting point? GanjamonII fucked around with this message at 15:24 on Apr 17, 2014 |
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Apr 17, 2014 15:21
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That seems reasonable. I really like the cordless circ saw, but I also have a corded one for bigger jobs. One thing you may want to look at/upgrade is to a drill that has a "hammer" setting if you're doing much drilling into concrete (you mentioned tapcons). FYI, I built my office addition with an older similar set of cordless tools (DeWalt 18v) and little else other than air nailers. If I had to do that job again (the drywall and siding part) I would have broken down and gotten a proper cordless drywall screw gun too (like Kastein said: they are awesome.) Since that set only comes with 2 batteries you can make you life a lot easier by picking up a couple more.
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Apr 17, 2014 15:33
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kastein posted:If you're doing a lot of drywall, you want a good drywall screwgun. I hope you weren't planning on using a framing nailer to do the drywall, just the framing behind it... I was actually, well thats too bad. There's some framing work to be done though and lots of other building projects I got planned. A drywall screwgun sounds too unitask-y but I got my electric drill which works real well for that kinda job. Got a Senco FramePro 21 degree nailgun today, it was really the only brand they carried in that store for those kinds of nailguns, I would have liked a Hitachi but since it's essentially free I guess I can't complain as long as it works.
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Apr 17, 2014 20:03
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I actually use my electric hand drill for drywalling too, I just wish I could justify a screwgun. If you're not going to buy a screwgun, get a pack of these: http://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-Drywall-Screw-Setter-4-Pack-DW2014C4/202302391 They allow you to simply pull the trigger and drive the screw in without worrying about it punching through the first layer of paper, as long as you aren't putting orangutan levels of downforce on the thing. They do wear out, after a while the chromeplate starts flaking off the annular ring (resulting in a rough surface that can tear into the paper on the drywall), and the phillips bit does round over after a lot of use, which is why they are cheap and come in packs. Not as good as a screwgun, since it doesn't stabilize the screw (so you have to be careful to not let it tip over when starting it) but if you aren't doing this stuff professionally, $20 in screw setter bits will probably do a whole house worth of drywall. I did the first room of my house without these and it shows. Or at least it did until I mudded everything  I ended up having to redo/double up a lot of screws because I put them through the paper the first time.
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Apr 17, 2014 20:11
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I got a Stihl chainsaw by the way, it's got this weird thing where it takes it forever to warm up and become usable, if I hit the gas when it's cold it just dies on me. I tried tweaking the fuel/air feed screw but nothing helps. Had to cut up a tree tonight which had gotten blown down and fallen across the road and it took like 10-15 minutes before it finally seemed to snap out of it and start working properly. I dunno what's causing this, but it seems it's something temperature related.
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Apr 17, 2014 21:37
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Does it have a choke?
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Apr 17, 2014 21:53
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His Divine Shadow posted:I got a Stihl chainsaw by the way, it's got this weird thing where it takes it forever to warm up and become usable, if I hit the gas when it's cold it just dies on me. I tried tweaking the fuel/air feed screw but nothing helps. Had to cut up a tree tonight which had gotten blown down and fallen across the road and it took like 10-15 minutes before it finally seemed to snap out of it and start working properly. First, are you following the start up procedure? (It's a lame video, but you get the point.) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wZGH0UyS9Pk If you still have a problem, and assuming you bought it from a local dealer, take it back.
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Apr 17, 2014 22:02
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Yeah but it's the kind of lever that lets up unless you keep it pressed down, the chainsaw reacts if I press it down, by stopping entirely. I got the chainsaw for free last july btw, along with a power washer. Used it to clear the lot where we built the house which was just forest before. edit again, I haven't been following the procedure in that video, I will try it next time and see what happens. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 22:21 on Apr 17, 2014 |
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Apr 17, 2014 22:13
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Fresh fuel? When was the spark plug last changed or the air filter cleaned? More importantly the fuel filter? Let me know if that helps. I would grab a fuel filter/spark plug. They are cheap and easy to replace (youtube is your friend). They are great saws if you take care of them. If the fuel sat in it, be ready to rebuild/replace the carb.
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Apr 17, 2014 23:08
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kastein posted:They allow you to simply pull the trigger and drive the screw in without worrying about it punching through the first layer of paper I know you're not supposed to do that, but why is it bad?
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Apr 17, 2014 23:38
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stubblyhead posted:I know you're not supposed to do that, but why is it bad? The paper provides the support to keep the screw from just ripping through the rock underneath. If you've ripped the paper the fastener you did it with is about worthless for holding the sheetrock up/on.
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Apr 17, 2014 23:44
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Yeah, basically what he said ^ It also leaves tufts of paper sticking up that really piss off whoever is mudding and sanding the room.
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Apr 18, 2014 00:16
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I've actually had a pretty decent experience using my 18v impact driver for drywall screws. I think I punctured the paper just a few times out of a couple hundred screws. I think it's a lot easier to control than a drill.
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Apr 19, 2014 08:33
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If doing more than 1000 screws, I would just buy a good cheap drywall screw gun, use it for the job and then sell it. I think I paid maybe $30 in lost value vs. new when I sold mine and it saved me a crapload of hassle when driving about 2000 screws throughout my basement. The auto-stop ratcheting action is fantastic which is something you don't get when you use the depth-set bits for regular drills/drivers.
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Apr 19, 2014 18:06
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It's time to replace my cheap Makita corded Jigsaw (4329K) as the base plate has trouble sitting at a true 90, and the blade wobble cutting anything thicker than 1/2" has gotten to be too much. Any recommendations? I was looking at the Bosch JS470 (sidebar: everyone I talk to always push the barrel grip. I've never taken to it personally, but also never gave it a shot. Is anyone here a convert?). I was also toying with the Milwaukee cordless, as I have 6 batteries (albeit only 2 are the 4.0 XC, the rest being compact and probably useless with the saw). Having never used a cordless jigsaw, and having a negative view of previous generation cordless saws (Milwaukee v18 recip, Makita LVT circ) I'm sure I'm probably better off with the corded. And chances are whenever a jigsaw is needed I'll have some sort of work table set up with power. Also, is the Bosch 572 worth the extra cost over the 470? Comes with an L-Boxx...
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Apr 20, 2014 07:06
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Re: jigsaws; I always tell people to buy the best Bosch they can afford. I'm sure there are other good ones out there but jigsaws are what Bosch does.
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Apr 20, 2014 14:58
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