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SouthsideSaint posted:how does that toolbox move when its loaded down with tools? I need a bigger box for work since my hundred dollar black four drawer harbor freight cart isn't cutting it anymore. And I have come down to this or the 16 drawer double box combo for $320. I rolled it, fully loaded, across the garage with little issue last Sunday and I'm a huge wuss.
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Apr 22, 2014 05:43
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Motronic posted:I'm not saying theirs are, but what would you think about a $20 torque wrench that's dead on and stays dead on? Probably the same thing I thought about the Snap On side cutters that broke 3 months after I got them. There's always an exception. Just by the sheer volume of stuff they have, HF is bound to put out a quality product or two (and Snap On has their duds). But you can't know except in hindsight, and I wouldn't want to rebuild an engine at work with a $20 torque wrench. Also, I need to justify owning this thing somehow. I got the metric set of Tekton wrenches today. Here's hoping they hold up.
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Apr 22, 2014 06:22
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BoostCreep posted:I'm sick of working on the floor and really need to organize my garage a bit, so I'm finally thinking of getting a work bench. I happen to have a $100 gift card to harbor freight, so I'm thinking of getting this table. Seconding the love for this bench. It's plenty sturdy and built to last. My gripes are with the drawers and the poo poo sliding rails they come with; replace those and you should have a quality product. Though, I wouldn't purchase one outright if I were shopping again, seeing as it'll cost ~1/2 of their sale price to build something similar; I was in the same boat with a gift card, and it fit the bill.
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Apr 22, 2014 08:37
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Rhyno posted:I rolled it, fully loaded, across the garage with little issue last Sunday and I'm a huge wuss. Cool I bought one on lunch today at work and I have it barely loaded with my small amount of tools. They were bursting out of my old box. Now I need more tools to fill the empty. 
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Apr 24, 2014 02:41
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I went and bought the Milwaukee 0234-6 Magnum. But now I need a set of drill bits. I'll be drilling into wood, occasional masonry, and stirring cement with it. Which types/brand of drill bits should I be getting?
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Apr 24, 2014 06:10
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I have one of these: http://www.samsclub.com/sams/ultra-heavy-duty-12-drawer-rolling-workbench/prod1480010.ip?navAction= I like it a lot. The butcher block top is sturdy enough to bolt a vise to or hammer on. It's 20" deep --I don't know what the picture makes it look so narrow. The drawers roll relatively smooth, and the casters lock solid. I'm thinking about getting another, just for more drawers, workspace, and a place to mount a drill press. Is there anything similar I should consider instead? I don't see anything like it in the same price range at HF or Sears without a particle board top.
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Apr 24, 2014 19:27
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melon cat posted:I went and bought the Milwaukee 0234-6 Magnum. But now I need a set of drill bits. I'll be drilling into wood, occasional masonry, and stirring cement with it. Which types/brand of drill bits should I be getting? I just get the mid priced bits, the titanium coated ones for all the random bullshit. But for masonry your going to need actual mason bits. I actually bought a set of el' cheapos from Menard's that wont die for 10 bucks. I cant complain. http://www.menards.com/main/tools-h...712-c-10079.htm They are not the best, but they have held up. And most of the time if I break one its because I am doing something I shouldn't be.
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Apr 24, 2014 19:31
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Bought one of these: Milwaukee M18 Fuel High Torque 1/2" Impact Wrench. Holy crap, best tool ever. It's really nice having it just happily pop bolts off in the junkyard rather than struggle with them. The nut busting torque is insane. It's also nice because it's two-mode, so you can switch it to a lower torque setting if you're tightening bolts. Also, the impact action doesn't begin until the wrench detects resistance, so even in the high-torque mode it's a nice fast electric motor that spins nuts down without breaking anything. If you want to buy one, you can get a bare tool, charger, and two batteries on ebay for less than the cost of the (tool/charger/battery) kit.
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Apr 24, 2014 19:42
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melon cat posted:I went and bought the Milwaukee 0234-6 Magnum. But now I need a set of drill bits. I'll be drilling into wood, occasional masonry, and stirring cement with it. Which types/brand of drill bits should I be getting? Wood bits: I use Dewalt's brad point set. http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW1720-Brad-Point-6-Piece/dp/B005GOM3VO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398366244&sr=8-1&keywords=dewalt+brad+point General Purpous: I ended up with a couple sets of these for $30/each. Not sure they are worth $60 though. http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-48-...ukee+drill+bits Comedy option: I have the Harbor Freight 115 piece it and it's held up incredibly well for $26 after coupon. http://www.harborfreight.com/115-piece-high-speed-drill-bit-set-with-index-528.html Masonry: This is not a hammer drill- I recommend only buying the bit size you need and make sure it is for a standard drill. Stirring cement? It's going to suck- a D handle would have been better suited for that. Occasional use, it can easily turn a 3" spade. Any larger and you will have issues holding on. Now if you want to waste a ton of money, I bought a set of Norseman 115 piece Black Moly bits and I loooove them so far. At $535, you might not... the spyder fucked around with this message at 20:09 on Apr 24, 2014 |
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Apr 24, 2014 20:07
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I've never liked buying big sets. Too many sizes you'll never use and generally not that big enough of a discount to matter. Get a couple Huot drill indexes and buy basic HSS drills in the 1/8" increments and add more as you need them.
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Apr 24, 2014 20:22
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the spyder posted:Comedy option: I have the Harbor Freight 115 piece it and it's held up incredibly well for $26 after coupon. Are these really decent? I know its HF, but if they take decent abuse, screw it!
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Apr 24, 2014 22:21
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Everytime I go to Harbor Freight I spend money on things I Bought these: http://www.harborfreight.com/curved-jaw-locking-pliers-set-3-pc-61249.html They seem decent enough. And a few months ago I walked in with a $99 coupon to buy a PREDATOR Honda clone to replace the Tehcrapsuh on my 70s Arien snowthrow. http://www.harborfreight.com/65hp-212cc-ohv-horizontal-shaft-gas-engine-epa-69730.html Heard good things about this motor and the best part is it will bolt to the snowblower frame like its OEM.
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Apr 24, 2014 22:27
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Are these really decent? I know its HF, but if they take decent abuse, screw it! I used the numbered set mainly for the last three years (when tapping) and it held up. I broke one bit and resharpened it. It's been worth what I paid.
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Apr 25, 2014 06:42
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BrokenKnucklez posted:I just get the mid priced bits, the titanium coated ones for all the random bullshit. But for masonry your going to need actual mason bits. the spyder posted:Wood bits: I use Dewalt's brad point set. http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW1720-Brad-Point-6-Piece/dp/B005GOM3VO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398366244&sr=8-1&keywords=dewalt+brad+point And will I need mason bits if I'm drilling through bricks/cinderblocks? the spyder posted:Stirring cement? It's going to suck- a D handle would have been better suited for that. Occasional use, it can easily turn a 3" spade. Any larger and you will have issues holding on. melon cat fucked around with this message at 07:52 on Apr 25, 2014 |
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Apr 25, 2014 07:31
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melon cat posted:And will I need mason bits if I'm drilling through bricks/cinderblocks? They are by far the best tool for the job.
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Apr 25, 2014 07:36
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kastein posted:OBD2 is a festering sore on the already disgusting rear end end of automotive electronics. Toyota used MOBD on my car- Only loving landcruiser to use it too- The V8 petrol got standard OBD2 NOTHING reads it, except for the genuine toyota scan tool...
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Apr 25, 2014 11:47
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melon cat posted:Thanks for these details. It has really narrowed down my options. That was me. I do it every time I need to mix mortar for foundation repairs on my house. I will see if I can find the mixing paddle I use for that later.
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Apr 25, 2014 13:18
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melon cat posted:Thanks for these details. It has really narrowed down my options. You will need masonry bits for drilling through them. Regular bits will get destroyed pretty quickly. I buy these but I just get them individually at Home Depot since I only use 2 different sizes.  That is what he means by a D handle. Your drill should be fine for mixing concrete, just start with a smaller paddle first to gauge how easy it is to hold onto the drill while you mix.
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Apr 25, 2014 13:53
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Another minor point of confusion, I may have also gotten it wrong... mortar, cement, and concrete are all different things. I was talking about mortar mix - the kind with portland cement, sand, and not much else in it. No gravel/aggregate. This is the mixing paddle I use: http://www.harborfreight.com/long-mixing-paddle-97357.html I think I've mixed like 10-20 80lb bags worth of mortar up so far, not sure. The abrasive nature of the mix has started eating through the plating, it's copper colored now (due to the plating process - you typically plate steel with nickel, then copper, then chrome, iirc, since some platings won't stick well to some metals) but still works just fine, especially for 6 dollars. e: don't just dump the two things together and go to town with the paddle. Start with about the right amount of water (a cup or so less than they say for the amount of mix you want) then add maybe 1/4 of the required mix. Mix well. Add another quarter to half of the mix. Mix well. Continue adding and mixing until you get the consistency you want. If you overshoot and it's too dry, add little splashes of water and mix until you get what you want. If you just add all the mortar mix at once or add all the water on top of the mix, you will have a hard time getting it to mix right and will have pockets of dry mix and/or really chunky dry mortar that are difficult to get mixed in. kastein fucked around with this message at 16:40 on Apr 25, 2014 |
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Apr 25, 2014 16:34
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Ive done the same thing with concrete and my 18V milwaukee. It works fine, only do 1 bag at a time in a 5 gallon pail. Also remember, mix to water, not water to mix (did it the other way once and it sucked). The paddle I have looks like a paddle, not a twist.
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Apr 25, 2014 19:47
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Krakkles posted:Bought one of these: Milwaukee M18 Fuel High Torque 1/2" Impact Wrench. Aww yeah, glad to hear it. I love mine too, I was shocked at how much heavier it was than I expected though. I can't wait to take it to the pick and pull and just tear stuff up.
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Apr 25, 2014 20:00
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Thanks for the additional info re: using the Magnum for cement mixing. I'm hoping to do a concrete pour for a kitchen sink at some point, so we'll see how that goes.the spyder posted:General Purpous: I ended up with a couple sets of these for $30/each. Not sure they are worth $60 though. http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-48-...ukee+drill+bits
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Apr 25, 2014 20:53
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the spyder posted:I used the numbered set mainly for the last three years (when tapping) and it held up. I broke one bit and resharpened it. It's been worth what I paid. Too bad half of the larger bits look like bananas.
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Apr 25, 2014 21:34
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melon cat posted:Thanks for the additional info re: using the Magnum for cement mixing. I'm hoping to do a concrete pour for a kitchen sink at some point, so we'll see how that goes. Even crappy bits can be useful, you just have to sharpen them more. I suggest you watch some youtube videos on how to properly drill into metals, the videos should cover speed, lubrication, and feed rate, and also look for some videos on how to sharpen your own bits. I bought a HF drill index with like 150 bits a couple years ago to have a good selection of odd sizes, and while they dull faster than quality bits, knowing how to sharpen them saves me money on expensive bits that I rarely use. For sizes that you use often, it is better to buy a quality bit. I will edit this in a little while to post a good video on drilling metals, I can't find it and it is bookmarked on my laptop which is not with me right now.
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Apr 26, 2014 01:07
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Wanting to get some opinions on this: Which would you prefer to keep in your truck: 4-way or a breaker bar with the right sized socket for your lugnuts? Mainly just curious for people's opinions. I've got a 4-way in there now and I'm not planning on taking it out. It's late, and I'm scrolling through HF looking for things to add to my pitiful set of truck tools; they're cheap and I'm thinking about slowly upgrading to something not so cheap*. *though not too expensive; I've got AAA for major stuff and don't want to be out a lot of money if they're stolen.
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Apr 26, 2014 07:10
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Breaker bar every time. The number of times I've hurt myself stamping or kicking one of this 4 way bastards I've lost count.
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Apr 26, 2014 07:19
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Breaker bar, especially if you're going the HF route; they're $10, just work, and have a lifetime - no questions asked warranty.
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Apr 26, 2014 07:31
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Cakefool posted:Breaker bar every time. The number of times I've hurt myself stamping or kicking one of this 4 way bastards I've lost count.
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Apr 26, 2014 09:49
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I keep a breaker bar and a collapsible four way (not enough room for a standard one) in my car. I've used the four way maybe once, the breaker bar every time I do something on the car. I might use the four way on the side of the road after breaking the bolts loose with the breaker bar; much easier to spin in.
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Apr 26, 2014 12:54
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Four way. I pull over for people with car trouble and they usually don't have the same lug size as me. Not as much leverage, but you can push on one side and pull on the other, just as effective as twice the handle length and less likely to round off because you are balanced across the lug nut instead of applying torque off-axis... Oh, and you can stick a piece of pipe on a four way just as easily as a breaker bar.
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Apr 26, 2014 14:06
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kastein posted:Four way. I pull over for people with car trouble and they usually don't have the same lug size as me. Not as much leverage, but you can push on one side and pull on the other, just as effective as twice the handle length and less likely to round off because you are balanced across the lug nut instead of applying torque off-axis... Also I love having that balanced free spinning mass to get the lugs off once free. Unless I wack myself in the shins.
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Apr 26, 2014 17:52
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melon cat posted:Thanks for the additional info re: using the Magnum for cement mixing. I'm hoping to do a concrete pour for a kitchen sink at some point, so we'll see how that goes.
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Apr 26, 2014 19:17
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Any opinions on the best type of clutch alignment tool?
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Apr 26, 2014 23:16
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^ The free one that comes with a full clutch/pressure plate/TOB/pilot bearing kit at the parts store  (I will admit to having bought a clutch kit, carefully used the alignment tool without scuffing it or getting it dirty, then returning the kit the same day when I was extremely broke and needed that money to pay the power bill, but also needed to put my jeep back together.) I just keep the clutch alignment tool out of the kit every time I do a clutch job on anything. Got the AMC 10 spline one, GM 60 degree V6 one, and IIRC a few others lying around at this point. StormDrain posted:Also I love having that balanced free spinning mass to get the lugs off once free. Unless I wack myself in the shins. Glad I'm not the only one who has done that. It works so well until you clobber yourself with it.
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Apr 26, 2014 23:45
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Hmm, I don't recall getting a tool with the last clutch I bought, maybe it's not a common thing here? My choices seem to be a screw-together taper seat type, or a shaft-and-spacers kit type. I was probably going to go for a cheap iteration of the latter. I always thought the best alignment tool was the end of the input shaft cut off a trashed gearbox, but that's not an option for me in this instance (we're swapping engines on my mate's Audi).
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Apr 26, 2014 23:53
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Dunno. Around here if you buy just a clutch friction disc you're on your own, but typically the "everything but the flywheel" clutch service kits come with a cheapo plastic tool that's still way higher quality than single-use. So I just keep them. The other easy method is to find a socket that fits nicely inside the pilot bearing, put an extension bar in it, then carefully wrap (smoothly) with layers of electrical tape until it's the minor diameter of the clutch disc splines. Had to do that a time or two.
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Apr 27, 2014 00:04
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InitialDave posted:Hmm, I don't recall getting a tool with the last clutch I bought, maybe it's not a common thing here? When we did the clutch on my 1989 Citroen ax my uncle turned a cheesy alignment tool out of a bit of wood. Not sure if that helps u, but I guess its an option?
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Apr 27, 2014 14:35
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InitialDave posted:Hmm, I don't recall getting a tool with the last clutch I bought, maybe it's not a common thing here? I have 2 1/2 extension bars that have insulation tape wrapped round them in the correct places and thicknesses to keep them snug. I have a saab one and a landrover one 
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Apr 27, 2014 18:23
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This summer I'll be building my own workbench. I'm looking at other people's workbench projects, and I've noticed that many of them have this tool at the end of their workbench: Not sure what it is, but I keep seeing it everywhere. What is this thing?
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Apr 27, 2014 18:38
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melon cat posted:This summer I'll be building my own workbench. I'm looking at other people's workbench projects, and I've noticed that many of them have this tool at the end of their workbench: A vise. Made of wood so it's softer than a metal one and won't destroy wooden projects.
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Apr 27, 2014 18:43
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