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oxbrain posted:Are you going to put in an angle to keep the mobile jaw from lifting or rocking? If you look at the guts of mill vises you'll see they are all pushing on an angle to force the jaw down. If it rocks you lose most of your clamping force. I am basing my design off of two designs I found online. One that is built for Sherline mills, and another that is for normal sized mills. My vise is .500" thick, so there isn't that much room to put an angle, although I might be able to do it. I don't have any angle plates or other tools to set up an angled cut right now though. If this design doesn't work, I will make another version. The ones I am using as guides only use 1 bolt, or 2 bolts to hold down the fixed jaw. Mine uses 4, so I think it is a bit more sturdy. The Sherline also isn't the strongest machine, and I am generally only working with aluminum and brass. http://ninoransenberg.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/slimvice1.jpg That is the one that a number of people have made for the Sherline. I didn't want the L shaped fixed jaw because I want to be able to work with larger pieces than that allows. I got the idea of adding a built in parallel from the guy who made that vise. The other one I am basing the design on is this one: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/jstanley/vise1.jpg
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Apr 20, 2014 05:05
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there's a great walkthrough of building a screwless vice here: http://www.deansphotographica.com/machining/projects/mill/vise/vise.html
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Apr 20, 2014 07:32
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I have a screwless vise for my mill. I am making a low profile vise that can be extended to be the entire length of the table.
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Apr 20, 2014 15:19
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Weird side question for metal enthusiasts: If you could build a battleship out of any metal/material without regard to resource scarcity, what would you use? Like what thickness of metal could you build a boat out and it would resist a ww1/ww2 artillery shell?
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Apr 22, 2014 04:32
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You can build a boat out of any thickness of metal you want, as long as the water displaced by the hull weighs more than the hull itself. I don't know about the hull structure itself, but a lot of WWII battleships had like eighteen inches of solid plate steel covering important sections like the turrets and the magazines.
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Apr 22, 2014 04:53
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I know how floating works, I am just curious if there is a very light/strong metal that we can't use for anything because its too rare.
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Apr 22, 2014 05:01
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Titanium is the one that comes first to mind. Zirconium is less common than titanium and equally light with similar properties but I don't know where it falls exactly. If you're trying to make the hull of your fanfic battleship out of something completely bizarre and out there, rhenium is an extraordinarily rare metal and makes a super strong high-temperature alloy with nickel that is used in gas turbine engines. Might be useful for your anti-laser armor or whatever. I'ts very heavy, though.
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Apr 22, 2014 05:17
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Potassium 
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Apr 22, 2014 05:23
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Pretty much what they make it out of now. Steel alloys. It's hard to beat the durability, elasticity, and tensile strength of modern armor plating. Of course, it's always easier to build a gun big enough to penetrate it. If you must be crazy, a composite superstructure with armor composed of carbon nanotube cloth exterior and a honeycomb interior to absorb the impact. There would likely be a lot of wear involved in absorbing fire, but the significant weight savings means bigger guns and much higher speed. edit: Ambrose Burnside posted:Potassium Changing my answer to this.
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Apr 22, 2014 05:28
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Plutonium. Nobody will dare get close enough to shoot it. More seriously, there are exotic steel alloys available now that are both harder and more durable/ductile than the types of steel used in WWII battleships. Carbon fiber is much lighter, and titanium is really good for stiff high-precision-machined durable hard structure. I imagine tungsten could be useful for protection from armor-piercing ordnance given its extraordinarily high melting point. Exotic ceramics might be useful as ablative armor? I don't know enough about materials properties to give a really well-informed answer, but my best guess is if none of: money, material scarcity, or manufacturability were obstacles, you might use some kind of composite or laminate or honeycomb utilizing several of the above materials, to achieve an ideal combination of weight, flexibility, water tightness, resistance to a variety of modern ordnance, speed and maneuverability in the water, and maybe even a hull that can flex and change shape for various different purposes (one shape for stability for when you want a stable weapons platform or landing surface, another when you want top straight-line speed, a third when you want minimum turning radius, a fourth for handling high seas, a fifth for maximum protection from torpedoes, and so forth).
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Apr 22, 2014 05:35
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Leperflesh posted:Plutonium. Nobody will dare get close enough to shoot it. Now I'm wondering if shooting a battleship made of Pu-239 (assuming you could get that much together in one place without it going off) with a high velocity round would initiate a chain reaction in that area as the hull gets explosively compressed.
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Apr 22, 2014 06:07
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When it comes to full displacement hulls a light one might not be a good idea. The benefit to a full displacement hull is the low centre of gravity and high stability. A light hull would shift the centre of gravity higher up. Unless you want to make a battleship with a planing hull, I don't even want to think about the engines needed to plane something that big. Material is only part of the armour strategy. Much protection is gained by using armour techniques like double or triple hulls, a hull within a hull with a gap all the way around adds more benefit than a single hull of double the thickness. No, Steel is where it's at for the starting material, we've got almost infinite variations on steel alloys to get exactly the properties you want for a given job. If money was no object though, you could do some very interesting things with it. 3D printing the entire hull as one contiguous unit with multiple skins built in to the structure. Build it in something like 80CRV2 alloy and build a kiln big enough to heat treat the entire hull. Shot peen the whole thing too, then copper plate the entire below waterline structure for superior fouling resistance (marine life just can't stand copper).
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Apr 22, 2014 10:40
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I would like to give forging and blacksmithing a try. I can make a simple forge, I can buy an anvil at harbor freight, but where's the best place to get metal? I'm in Providence RI and there are a ton of scrap metal buyers nearby, but they seem to just load the metal onto ships. I don't know if they'd sell single leaf springs to someone like me. There are some bigger manufacturers in the area, but from their websites I get the impression they sell orders measured in tons. Not two or three bars of steel. Any advice?
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Apr 22, 2014 13:11
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Pagan posted:I would like to give forging and blacksmithing a try. I can make a simple forge, I can buy an anvil at harbor freight, but where's the best place to get metal? I'm in Providence RI and there are a ton of scrap metal buyers nearby, but they seem to just load the metal onto ships. I don't know if they'd sell single leaf springs to someone like me. There are some bigger manufacturers in the area, but from their websites I get the impression they sell orders measured in tons. Not two or three bars of steel. Any advice? There's an auto tuning place near me. I offered them scrap value for any leaf springs they can give me, and they were fine with that. I even got a set of F-150 leaf springs in exchange for making the guys at the shop a bunch of bottle openers. So maybe give that a shot.
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Apr 22, 2014 15:23
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Pagan posted:I would like to give forging and blacksmithing a try. I can make a simple forge, I can buy an anvil at harbor freight, but where's the best place to get metal? I'm in Providence RI and there are a ton of scrap metal buyers nearby, but they seem to just load the metal onto ships. I don't know if they'd sell single leaf springs to someone like me. There are some bigger manufacturers in the area, but from their websites I get the impression they sell orders measured in tons. Not two or three bars of steel. Any advice? I managed to score about a hundred pounds worth of leaf spring by visiting an auto scrap yard. I think all you'd need would be a hack-saw and wrench. I think it's a good place to start if there's one near you. Anyway, my current go to is a self-serve auto scrap yard a half hour drive from home. You can find lots of differently shaped pieces and different sorts of steel for cheap. There was a useful chart on anvilfire.com that showed common types of steel for different types of scrap.
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Apr 22, 2014 15:33
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Pagan posted:I would like to give forging and blacksmithing a try. I can make a simple forge, I can buy an anvil at harbor freight, but where's the best place to get metal? I'm in Providence RI and there are a ton of scrap metal buyers nearby, but they seem to just load the metal onto ships. I don't know if they'd sell single leaf springs to someone like me. There are some bigger manufacturers in the area, but from their websites I get the impression they sell orders measured in tons. Not two or three bars of steel. Any advice? Well, google mapping around near Providence, you've got a cool looking jewelry metal/casting metal supply company called Hallmark Metals, and a source for nickel-based metals. But my guess is your best bet is Mid City Steel. Places like that obviously do most of their business in larger quantities, but I've walked in to several steel suppliers like that and found they're perfectly willing to sell small amounts and scrap. Expect to have to go during working-man's hours (8 to 5 on a weekday), bring heavy duty gloves, and the ideal situation would be if you can handle bringing home a 21' bar, and/or have a portable method for cutting 21' bars into segments that will fit in your vehicle. They seem to be affiliated with Mid City Scrap, and also deal with scrap steel, so you should be able to arrange to buy hunks of scrap steel from them too.
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Apr 22, 2014 15:45
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Leperflesh posted:Well, google mapping around near Providence, you've got a cool looking jewelry metal/casting metal supply company called Hallmark Metals, and a source for nickel-based metals. Thank you, that's very helpful. one other question, though : What kind of metal should I be looking for? I'd like to start simple, hammer and shape some rebar, maybe make my own hammer, then perhaps an axe head. I ordered some tongs, but making my own seems ideal. The end goal is to make knives, though. So besides leaf springs, what else is a good buy?
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Apr 22, 2014 16:06
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Oh yeah, don't buy a HF anvil, as far as I know they're always cast iron or very soft mild steel and the geometry of stuff like the horn is kind of a crude layman's approximation of how an anvil should look and accordingly really isn't much good for actual forming work. Pick up a big ol' cutoff brick of 4140 or something similar, even if it isn't heat-treated it'll still do you much better than mild steel or crumbly-cracky-hammer-deadening cast iron will. Shouldn't run you more than $50 for something very adequate for small/medium-size work, and you can still radius the edges to different degrees to get some of the functionality of an anvil horn.Pagan posted:Thank you, that's very helpful. one other question, though : Hot-rolled mild. It's the cheapest non-scrap option but is basically fine because you don't need the dimensional accuracy or work-hardening of cold-rolled. If you want to make knives and tools and stuff that'll be tempered, a plain carbon steel is a good place to start- affordable and very amenable to hot-forging. Do Not Make My Mistake, of trying to forge a cleaver from 4140, an alloy that exhibits red-hardness (doesn't want to deform even when glowing hot) on account of the molybdenum. And oh yeah, hammers and axe-heads need a ton of heat to get up to a uniform proper temperature. The forming procedures aren't terribly difficult, but unless you're working at a very small scale they will probably overwhelm your early starting equipment. In addition, the drifts you need for forming the handle eyes are specialized tools you'll need to make or purchase first. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 17:33 on Apr 22, 2014 |
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Apr 22, 2014 17:24
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If I may, some sperg facts about making battleships out of the things that have been suggested: Plutonium is right out. It has three or four phases and they all have very different densities. Also, finely (and not so finely) divided plutonium, much like many other lanthanides/actinides, really like to catch fire on exposure to air. This is a Bad Thing when 1kg of plutonium is enough to poison the entire human race (iirc) even discounting the whole radioactivity thing and you can easily inhale the smoke. Potassium was a joke, and I'd very much like to see someone try  Zirconium and Hafnium iirc are similar to the lanthanides and actinides in how they react to being scraped into fine particles. Think of the sparker in a torch striker, survival firestarter, or lighter. Those are typically lanthanum or cerium alloys. You don't want to make a boat out of these if they're going to be taking hits from armor piercing rounds, because the results will look kinda like a giant firework. Most true metals (groups 1 and 2 plus the triangle section of the periodic table with gallium/zinc/etc in it) are right out, the melting points are too low, too reactive, too mechanically weak. Most platinoid group metals are out, too dense, also too valuable. Very nice chemically though, they don't react to much. Basically, stick with your regular steels and steel alloys, toss in platinoids (chrome, vanadium, etc) to taste/for corrosion and strength improvements. 4000 or 8000 series steels are very strong when properly treated, not sure how they handle corrosion or shell impact though.
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Apr 22, 2014 17:41
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Pagan posted:Thank you, that's very helpful. one other question, though : If they have a cutoff bin, buy some square and some round bar stock of mild steel. Use that for learning the basics: make a coat hook, make a spoon, make a letter opener, and so forth. I don't recommend rebar unless you're getting it a whole lot cheaper than bar stock, and you have a very tight budget. Rebar of unknown provenance has unknown properties, it's often cheapish metal, and I think if you're interested in blacksmithing as a long-term hobby, you'll be working with some variety of flat or round bar stock for the duration: might as well start working with it right away. When you are ready to make blades, truck leaf springs are a great place to start, since they're probably cheaper than bar stock of equivalent alloy from a steel supplier. You can make quite a few blades from just one leaf. And spring steel is typically a basic medium-carbon steel, a fine choice for a basic non-stainless knife blade that you can quench-harden in oil or water, temper, anneal, etc. and wind up with a blade that holds a sharp edge and is reasonably durable. By the time you've got that down, you'll presumably have done enough reading to know what specific alloys you want to work with next, and can seek those out. I recommend Jim Hrisoulas' blademaking books for a good introductory primer to blademaking, but you should start with books that cover the basic techniques first: there are a lot of choices and I'm sure we've reviewed a few of those in the thread, but I don't see it on the first page. I've personally read and found useful The Art of Blacksmithing, Practical Blacksmithing and Metalworking, and The Contemporary Blacksmith (the last of which is more of a picture book to give you ideas, rather than a primer about techniques). Speaking of the OP, I just realized, it's from 2008, and the images on the first page are all missing due to the wafflepocalypse. Is it time for an updated/new thread with updated info in the OP?
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Apr 22, 2014 19:14
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Been futzing around with my HF mini lathe the past couple days. Adjusted the gibs on the cross and compound slides to the point where I can't feel any play anymore, but I haven't nailed down the carriage slide yet. I can't believe how lovely it is really. It doesn't appear to be possible to adjust it so that it is parallel to the underside of the way in its current configuration. I'm considering maybe trying to shim it like this guy does, unless someone knows a better way: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3yQG2uI2Gb4 The other thing that is bothering the crap out of me is all the drilled holes on the face of every sliding surface have godawful burrs all over them. For example the hole that the compound rotates over was particularly bad on mine(picture not mine). The underside of the compound is already gouged to poo poo from this.  Is there a nice deburring hand tool someone would recommend for this? The underside of the hole the same hole is particularly troublesome because of clearance around the dovetails. peepsalot fucked around with this message at 19:18 on Apr 22, 2014 |
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Apr 22, 2014 19:14
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Since leaf springs are a favored material for a lot of you guys it seems - anyone near central massachusetts, hit me up via private message on here, or via facebook, same username there. I have a bunch of old leaf springs from various jeeps I've lifted and/or repaired for people that are no longer serviceable as suspension components, but would be perfectly fine to make knives and stuff out of. Free to whoever wants to pick them up, take any, take all, I don't care. I'd rather see them turn into a fun goon DIY project than get 11 cents a pound for them at the scrapyard. All they're doing for me right now is making the scrapmetal pile I haven't had the motivation to haul across the scales larger.
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Apr 23, 2014 01:34
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For the last 10 years, I've lived in neighborhoods where I am within spitting distance of my neighbors. It looks like I might finally be buying a house with some acreage. 6.7, to be exact. I can almost hear the anvil ringing...
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Apr 23, 2014 03:41
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I finished my slim vise. I need to get some bolts that are shorter. Those are from my hold down set, and will be swapped out asap. The block on the left is squared to the table and then tightened down. It is the 'fixed jaw'. The block in the middle is pushed against the workpiece, and then the block on right is squared and tightened to the table. Then I turn the screw in the right block, which puts pressure on the workpiece being held by the middle and left blocks and tighten the middle block nuts to lock everything in.
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Apr 23, 2014 03:53
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Brekelefuw posted:I finished my slim vise. ooooh I see. that's rad!
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Apr 23, 2014 05:36
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Leperflesh posted:Speaking of the OP, I just realized, it's from 2008, and the images on the first page are all missing due to the wafflepocalypse. Is it time for an updated/new thread with updated info in the OP? It sure is. Lots of people have expressed interest in contributing a small part to it, but so far no one's actually done anything about it. edit: battleship chat: a manufactured single mega-molecule in the shape of a boat of some sort of fantasy trans-uranic metal that is somehow stable with itself. Either that or neutronium. You know, if we're brainstorming here. Slung Blade fucked around with this message at 06:16 on Apr 23, 2014 |
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Apr 23, 2014 06:09
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I made an orange sludge machine out of a truck battery charger, a bucket and some salt water: It cares not for steel, no matter the hardness  Next stage is to scale it up for etching large parts and fast, I have a stainless steel oil drum to use as combination vessel and sacrificial. Goal is heavy duty de-rusting and etching of commemorative plates, signs and blades. Pagan posted:Any advice? Networking (of the in-person, social kind) has netted me a lot free/cheap metal, hardware and tools. Local mechanics, metal supply and metal working / fabrication shops will have an offcuts bin full of bits that are perfect for small blacksmithing projects, many shops are happy to let you have a quick look through the bin if you're friendly. If they do, be a cool dude and bring them a six pack or give them a forged thing like Stalin McHitler did. The next time you swing by it will be no problem at all. I got my brake drum for my forge for free from one of the oldest standing mechanics in my area. I got access to a local engineering firms "rust pile" out the back of their stock shed by befriending the manager. Local independent hardware shops can be a goldmine for all sorts of stuff too. I always make a point of buying stuff from my local hardware store, when they didn't have ball pein hammers in the sizes I needed we got the catalogue out and I ordered them. I buy my flap wheels and consumables from them, too. A couple of months ago I went in to order another thing I could get easier and slightly cheaper online and one of the guys suddenly piped up "Oh hey, you're the guy who does blacksmithing right? hold on one second.". He ran up to the store room and came back with a set of new old stock Picard metal forming hammers of probably 70's vintage. I got the set for £5 ($8?). I found out later that they had a whole pile of them in the store room which they couldn't shift, spoke to the owner after one of the guys introduced me and bought all 70 hammers at a screaming deal.
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Apr 23, 2014 10:00
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Slung Blade posted:It sure is. Lots of people have expressed interest in contributing a small part to it, but so far no one's actually done anything about it.  (I'll try to write up my thing this week 'cause I suddenly have the time)
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Apr 23, 2014 15:04
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ReelBigLizard posted:No, Steel is where it's at for the starting material, we've got almost infinite variations on steel alloys to get exactly the properties you want for a given job. If money was no object though, you could do some very interesting things with it. 3D printing the entire hull as one contiguous unit with multiple skins built in to the structure. Build it in something like 80CRV2 alloy and build a kiln big enough to heat treat the entire hull. Shot peen the whole thing too, then copper plate the entire below waterline structure for superior fouling resistance (marine life just can't stand copper). Yeah, we can make better and more consistent steels nowadays, but it's still just fancy steel heat-treated just so. A Chobham battleship might be interesting, but that's basically how battleships were built traditionally, just with ceramic in place of the air gap between the 18" face-hardened armour and the 1" steel spall liner. Battleship armour is really interesting, metallurgy-wise. It's case hardening writ large -- super hard and brittle on the outside couple inches to shrug off lesser projectiles (up to and including the [previous generation's main guns), and plain ol' mild steel for the inner 2/3 to absorb the hit that breaks through the hard layer. Sort of like a BB to a plate-glass store window vs. a rock chip in a car windshield -- the former spalls a (relatively) bigass cone off the inside, the latter has a soft layer to stop that bit. The former is also the point of AP shells; from solid iron roundshot up to 2700-pound 16" shells, the point is to penetrate halfway and use the splinters of the enemy's own hull to do the actual killing; the bursting charge in a 16" AP shell is mostly a failsafe in case you hit a thin bit. Another analogy is a proper katana, with its glass edge and soft backing. The metallurgy of WWII AP shells is even crazier, with a pointy sheetmetal aerodynamic cap, a blunted mild steel impact cap (to squish onto the armor and provide a foothold for the next bit), and then the actual shell body, which is hardened and weighs literally a ton and is moving as fast as a standard rifle bullet. On the other hand, modern tank APFSDS is a 2-inch-wide, yard-long lawn dart made of something dense enough to hack through a tank if you made an axe out of it. And scooting along at a mile a second. And spontaneously combusts at extremes of heat and pressure, such as like those encountered when punching through a foot of hardened steel. Too bad airplanes became a thing, because I'd like to see the equivalent of the M1A1's Silver Bullet in battleship size.
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Apr 23, 2014 15:33
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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I appreciate all the advice so far. Since the HF anvil is not recommended, what about this one? http://bit.ly/1l3gq5E
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Apr 23, 2014 22:06
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Pagan posted:I appreciate all the advice so far. Since the HF anvil is not recommended, what about this one? Cast iron, it'll break on you eventually, and the rebound will be awful. Please stay away from it, you'll hate it  If you go to one of those scrapyards near you, look for a bar of 4" or bigger round steel, you can make a great anvil from something like that for cheap. Especially if it's a good alloy like from a bulldozer axle or something. Get the ends cut 90 degrees, so you have two flat surfaces and a nice round bar for radius work. You'll have to mount it in something that will hold it standing up and laying down but that's not too hard. Also, I re-did the op with new pictures and a few re-written passages. I will add more to it later, but please let me know if any of you sees anything horribly wrong.
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Apr 23, 2014 22:51
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Pagan posted:I appreciate all the advice so far. Since the HF anvil is not recommended, what about this one? Here is a good one. 295 lbs! If that is too much for you, consider trying a local junkyard or scrapyard for pieces of railroad track. I was at my local you-pick junkyard and I noticed they have some old railroad track off to one edge, even though all you'd think they have is cars and trucks. A foot or two of railroad track is a very common starter anvil.
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Apr 24, 2014 00:01
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Uncle Enzo posted:Here is a good one. 295 lbs! If that is too much for you, consider trying a local junkyard or scrapyard for pieces of railroad track. I was at my local you-pick junkyard and I noticed they have some old railroad track off to one edge, even though all you'd think they have is cars and trucks. A foot or two of railroad track is a very common starter anvil. If I was anywhere near that anvil I would buy it in a SECOND. Also, if anyone is looking to use railroad track as an anvil, do this:  It puts all that delightfully springy mass right under your striking surface. Welding a nice thick top plate onto that as well wouldn't hurt.
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Apr 24, 2014 03:34
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I have anvil supplies coming, including a nice tree stump, but they aren't here yet. But I DO have a working forge. And a lot of questions. First, any good links or resources on fire management? What do you guys use to light it? I've been falling back to my boy scout days and building little fires out of shaved up sticks and scrap lumber. I'm thinking I should one day soon invest in a handheld propane torch and just use that. How do you make sure it's OUT. I turned off the air, spread everything out, and it seems out, but it's still smoldering and smoking a little. Do you pour water on it and deal with the mess every time, or is there a trick I'm missing?
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Apr 26, 2014 23:22
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I don't know about a forge, but if you want to save the coals try spreading it out. Would be best on a metal sheet or similar that can suck the heat out. Does anyone have any good advice on making square holes? I need a ~9mm hole (23/64 would be close enough) about 1.5" deep. Right now I am planning to bore it and file it square, but I'm not particularly fantastic at filing. Filing blind into a small hole will be a challenge. Rotary or press broaching seems like the obvious answer, but goddamn is it expensive. Also, 9mm is very much not a standard size so availability is a concern.
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Apr 27, 2014 02:47
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Pagan posted:I have anvil supplies coming, including a nice tree stump, but they aren't here yet. But I DO have a working forge. And a lot of questions. I assume you have a coal/charcoal forge, and not gas. A handheld torch is very handy in a blacksmith shop anyway, and it's useful for getting a fire going. The best way to make sure a fuel fire is out is with an airtight lid. This smothers the fire very quickly without producing a lot of smoke, and lets you change your mind and re-light it pretty quickly. Obviously you also need a way to close the hole in the bottom, assuming you have one. In addition, anyone operating a coal/charcoal forge should have a watering can (a metal one), and a bucket of sand with a small spade is a decent idea for putting out a coal that escapes the fire. Finally, every shop that uses fire or things that can catch on fire should have an up-to-date quality fire extinguisher of the appropriate type for what's being used. Put it somewhere easily accessible, highly visible, and not where you'd have to walk past a source of ignition to get to it.
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Apr 27, 2014 03:28
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Pagan posted:I have anvil supplies coming, including a nice tree stump, but they aren't here yet. But I DO have a working forge. And a lot of questions. If you're using charcoal your boy scout stuff will work fine, coal I find much harder to light. In fact I have a propane torch and it doesn't seem to work worth a drat. I just squirt a bunch of lighter fluid on it, light it, wait a minute or two, then turn on the air slow then increasing. As for putting it out, I spread it out and then wait. Coal dies pretty fast and it's usually cool enough to touch in an hour or so. I don't use water on my forge because it has a little fire mortar on it and water will break that down.
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Apr 27, 2014 03:30
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On that note, when I was taking my blacksmithing course the owner/instructor had a cracked iron firebowl/tuyere assembly lying off to the side, the victim of a student pouring a big thinger of water into a forge that had been running hot for several hours.
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Apr 27, 2014 19:37
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I'm using coal. I found a local supplier and it's ridiculously cheap. 40 lb bags for $11 each. Hardwood charcoal is something like a dollar a pound, so I'll use coal. I started saving scraps and shavings from wood working projects, I realize the paper thin curls created by a hand plane are perfect firestarting equipment. Once I get a semi workable space set up, I'll share pictures. This thread has already been an excellent resource.
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Apr 27, 2014 19:53
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Delivery McGee posted:Too bad airplanes became a thing, because I'd like to see the equivalent of the M1A1's Silver Bullet in battleship size. You'll get to, soon enough:  The one in the back is General Atomics' new 32MJ railgun. It or a derivative is intended to be mounted on the Navy's next generation destroyers. It fires some kind of hardened hypervelocity penetrator at Mach 8 over a range of around 200 miles. I don't know what the projectiles look like specifically (current ones look like a saboted KE round except the sabot is made of polished aluminum for electrical conductivity) but the effect on a target would be what you're looking for.
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Apr 27, 2014 22:45
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