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pbpancho posted:So I'm about done with this. 1 Hobbyking order, 4 trips to the local hobby shop for things I forgot, as well as a trip to Menards and a trip to Michaels. I've never built OR flown an RC airplane, so I'm feeling pretty good that I have everything hooked up and functional. Should be able to try it out tomorrow if the weather improves! You probably just haven't put them on yet but do you have vertical stabilizers to go on the wingtips? Good luck with the maiden. My escs and naze finally showed up so I have everything I need to get me miniquad in the air 
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Apr 25, 2014 00:55
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mashed_penguin posted:You probably just haven't put them on yet but do you have vertical stabilizers to go on the wingtips? Good luck with the maiden. Yep, that's one of the steps I haven't gotten to yet. Also need to find my metric allen keys to tighten down those rods. And adjust/trim everything out. I did get my Turnigy 9XR working with the elevon controls though!
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Apr 25, 2014 02:00
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mashed_penguin posted:You probably just haven't put them on yet but do you have vertical stabilizers to go on the wingtips? Good luck with the maiden. If you get stuck setting up the naze32 board send me a PM or something. You can also hop on #multiwii on freenode. I doubt you'll have any trouble though because IMHO the naze32 is a lot easier to setup than arducopter/megapirate and you already did that. CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 02:08 on Apr 25, 2014 |
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Apr 25, 2014 02:05
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Woo! Finally got (mostly) all my parts for my first scratch-built quad! I forgot an HXT to xt60 adapter to charge my battery, but eh. I can use alligator clips for now. HAL Turnigy 585 mm frame, D2830 motors, a KK 2.1 board, and hopefully I have all the right plug & play connectors so I don't have to learn soldering. I'm using the tutorial here. Anyone have any advice for a first build? Stupid stuff that you wish you knew? Ways to avoid frying my ESCs when I'm trying to test my motors?
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Apr 25, 2014 04:05
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CrazyLittle posted:If you get stuck setting up the naze32 board send me a PM or something. You can also hop on #multiwii on freenode. I doubt you'll have any trouble though because IMHO the naze32 is a lot easier to setup than arducopter/megapirate and you already did that. Cheers man. I got it all wired up at about 11:30 last night and didn't want to jump into the software setup that late at night. I actually got the afromini board which seems really cool. It is so ridiculously tiny but that makes finding space on my 250 much easier. It connected to baseflight ok and that is as far as I got with it.
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Apr 25, 2014 15:33
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Arcturas posted:Woo! Finally got (mostly) all my parts for my first scratch-built quad! I forgot an HXT to xt60 adapter to charge my battery, but eh. I can use alligator clips for now. Never work on your quad with a battery hooked up and props on the motors. There is too much potential for something going horribly wrong. I had a scare last year when my quad with 10" props went full throttle in the living room when the flight controller had a brownout. It was something  Don't be lazy like me and take the props off. Make sure you calibrate your escs. I'm not familiar with the kk2 so I don't know if you can calibrate all 4 at once but its really important all you motors start spinning at the same throttle pwm. Last thing I can think of is make sure you maiden it somewhere that has way more space than you think you need. Quads can move really fast and can eat up space if you aren't used to them.
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Apr 25, 2014 15:40
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Thanks! I'll have to figure out how to calibrate ESC's, but I'm sure it's doable. I assume it's just as important to update the firmware on my board? Do I need to hook it to a battery to do that? And thanks for the reminder of plenty of space. My backyard is small, so I was only going to go up and down there to see if it would take off, but I'm right next door to a big open park I was going to use for normal flying, and I can go there for my tests if need be.
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Apr 25, 2014 16:28
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mashed_penguin posted:Cheers man. I got it all wired up at about 11:30 last night and didn't want to jump into the software setup that late at night. I actually got the afromini board which seems really cool. It is so ridiculously tiny but that makes finding space on my 250 much easier. It connected to baseflight ok and that is as far as I got with it. Yeah no problem. Just make sure you do the accelerometer calibration and get the prop rotation directions correct (ask me why I know). I'm working my way through setting up a crius v2 with megapirate. By comparison the naze32 is a cakewalk. CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 17:03 on Apr 25, 2014 |
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Apr 25, 2014 17:01
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Arcturas posted:Thanks! I'll have to figure out how to calibrate ESC's, but I'm sure it's doable. I assume it's just as important to update the firmware on my board? Do I need to hook it to a battery to do that? In general to calibrate ESCs you power up the esc with your throttle at maximum. It will make a funny beep sequence then you lower the trottle to minimum and it will beep again. Some brands of ESC are different. If you have ones with simonK firmware then that procedure will work. I haven't used a kk2 board so I don't know about updating its firmware. Generally though you would only need usb or ftdi power to update firmware. EDIT Here is my current qav250 wiring from last night. I've just got the motors solder tacked to figure out prop rotation The escs were a little cramped all squared up so I splayed them out a little bit. 
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Apr 25, 2014 17:02
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mashed_penguin posted:I'm not familiar with the kk2 so I don't know if you can calibrate all 4 at once but its really important all you motors start spinning at the same throttle pwm. 1) take the props off 2) set your transmitter throttle to full 3) hold down the outer two buttons on the KK2 board while plugging in power. Keep holding them. It will boot into "passthrough" mode. 4) Wait for the ESC calibration beep(s). set throttle to minimum. 5) release buttons. mashed_penguin posted:I haven't used a kk2 board so I don't know about updating its firmware. Generally though you would only need usb or ftdi power to update firmware. Yeah, updating is pretty easy but with a KK2 board you probably don't need to unless you have some flight characteristics misbehaving.
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Apr 25, 2014 17:03
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CrazyLittle posted:Yeah, updating is pretty easy but with a KK2 board you probably don't need to unless you have some flight characteristics misbehaving. Is it better to do, since I haven't gotten anything hooked up yet, or should I wait until I have a problem? I've got the asp USB dealio, so I could do it while I'm waiting for my AC -> DC power adapter to come in th email. (I foolishly thought I could use an old laptop power adapter, but that puts out 19 V and the Accucel I picked up needs 11V - 17V inbound, so my 12 V adapter's coming on Monday.)
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Apr 25, 2014 17:19
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Arcturas posted:Is it better to do, since I haven't gotten anything hooked up yet, or should I wait until I have a problem? I've got the asp USB dealio, so I could do it while I'm waiting for my AC -> DC power adapter to come in th email. (I foolishly thought I could use an old laptop power adapter, but that puts out 19 V and the Accucel I picked up needs 11V - 17V inbound, so my 12 V adapter's coming on Monday.) I'd wait until you have a problem. The kk2 board firmware is pretty well established these days.
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Apr 25, 2014 17:52
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mashed_penguin posted:Just make sure you plug nothing into vcc on the ftdi header. Power it from the servo bus with 5v and it will be fine. One thing to bear in mind with the openlrs recievers is that they don't like being rapidly power cycled. Always give it a good 15 seconds after removing power before reapplying it. Any suggestions on powering the tx without the ftdi? What voltage do jr modules take?
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Apr 26, 2014 00:02
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tehk posted:Any suggestions on powering the tx without the ftdi? What voltage do jr modules take? I just unscrew the front cover of the tx module when it is plugged into my 9xr. Then I plug the ftdi cable in as normal with the vcc wire removed from my 6 pin jumper cable. They take 5v from the radio iirc. Gnd 5v and ppm. Two of the 5 pins are nc. I have fried a tx module though doing this when I plugged it into the radio with no case on the module at all. I had the pins misalligned by 1 and blew out the rf module. If you plug it in in the case and then just take the front cover off you can't make that mistake. I have to configure my qav250 rx tonight so I'll post some pics of the setup I'm using.
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Apr 26, 2014 01:11
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A couple of (hopefully) obvious questions for ya folks about the KK2.1.5 and the Turnigy 9X8C-V2 8-channel receiver. On the KK2.1.5, what's the little black cylinder on a pair of wires that comes with the board? On page four of this manual I see it connected to the buzzer pins on the board, but there's a separate white thing in that picture, plus some connections, that I haven't seen. (EDIT: Also, if I'm only getting power to the KK2 board via the ESC connectors, not connecting my battery directly to the red battery monitor pins, will the buzzer even sound? I don't imagine it would) On the receiver, what's the order on the pins, from top/front to back/bottom? I know it's CH1-8, battery, and bind as we go along the ten sets of three pins, but I'm not sure if the three pins for each channel are arranged signal/power/ground from front/middle/back (front being the labeled side of the Rx), like I assume, or if it's the opposite. Similarly, when I go to hook the Rx to the KK2 board, how do I get power to the Rx? I assume I hook the aux row from the KK2 to the bat row on the Rx, and then channels 1-4 are aileron (1), elevator (2), throttle (3), rudder(4). Is it necessary to hook the aux row up, or will the signal rows carry power to the receiver? The receiver's battery row is confusing me a bit. Plus this tutorial is confusing me a little, because it looks like he's only hooking a single pair of power pins (on the aileron(1) channel) to his receiver, though it's a different receiver than mine and doesn't have a bat row at all. (EDIT: On the board, they've silkscreened a little -, 5v, and signal next to the Rx pins, which makes me think the outside pair are the power pins and the inside row (closer to the LCD) are the signal pins. But I don't see any similar indicator on the Rx) Arcturas fucked around with this message at 16:22 on Apr 26, 2014 |
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Apr 26, 2014 15:59
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Arcturas posted:On the KK2.1.5, what's the little black cylinder on a pair of wires that comes with the board? On page four of this manual I see it connected to the buzzer pins on the board Yes that's the buzzer. The extra thing in that picture is an additional LED light that you can use as a visual cue that something's up (battery low etc) Arcturas posted:(EDIT: Also, if I'm only getting power to the KK2 board via the ESC connectors, not connecting my battery directly to the red battery monitor pins, will the buzzer even sound? I don't imagine it would) Arcturas posted:On the receiver, what's the order on the pins, from top/front to back/bottom? I know it's CH1-8, battery, and bind as we go along the ten sets of three pins, but I'm not sure if the three pins for each channel are arranged signal/power/ground from front/middle/back (front being the labeled side of the Rx), like I assume, or if it's the opposite. 1) Aileron (roll) 2) Elevator (pitch) 3) Throttle 4) Rudder (yaw) 5) AUX (auto-level switch) Arcturas posted:Similarly, when I go to hook the Rx to the KK2 board, how do I get power to the Rx? CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 00:32 on Apr 27, 2014 |
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Apr 27, 2014 00:24
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quote != edit
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Apr 27, 2014 00:31
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Thanks! That's really helpful. Regarding the receiver channels, thanks. I eventually puzzled out what 1-5 were, but it's good to have confirmation. But I was also confused whether, for channel 1, the signal pin was the pin closest to the labeled side of the receiver, or the pin toward the back. I figure if I accidentally plug it in backwards, I won't cook anything, so I can try it both ways and see what works.
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Apr 27, 2014 02:55
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I got my Mobius gimbal parts in today and set it up and it's so good I just ordered parts to build a mini Y6 with Naze32. I'm resisting the temptation to buy a DTF UHF until another day. Here's some video from my buddy's FPV250 mini quad: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K997raXv6gU
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Apr 27, 2014 05:51
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Vitamin J posted:I got my Mobius gimbal parts in today and set it up and it's so good I just ordered parts to build a mini Y6 with Naze32. I'm resisting the temptation to buy a DTF UHF until another day. Is the gimbal your design or is it a commercial one? I'm pretty keen to try sticking one on top of my 250. I'm going to order a mobius next week.
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Apr 27, 2014 07:00
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Arcturas posted:Thanks! That's really helpful. Outside edge of the KK board is ground (black / dk-brown), inner most pin is signal (white/orange) for the ESC and receiver plugs. Don't get in the habit of plugging that in backwards since not all equipment can handle 5v on the pwm channel.
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Apr 27, 2014 07:58
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CrazyLittle posted:Outside edge of the KK board is ground (black / dk-brown), inner most pin is signal (white/orange) for the ESC and receiver plugs. Don't get in the habit of plugging that in backwards since not all equipment can handle 5v on the pwm channel. Yeah, the KK board is labeled. But the receiver is not, and that's the part I am unsure about.
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Apr 27, 2014 14:44
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Arcturas posted:Yeah, the KK board is labeled. But the receiver is not, and that's the part I am unsure about. Top of the receiver is signal, bottom is ground. It's labelled, but just in the laziest way possible on the sticker on top.
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Apr 27, 2014 17:25
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CrazyLittle posted:Top of the receiver is signal, bottom is ground. It's labelled, but just in the laziest way possible on the sticker on top. Any reciever I have come across follows this convention. I'm sure there are some  ones out there that don't though.
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Apr 27, 2014 17:59
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Hah. Thanks, folks.
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Apr 27, 2014 18:42
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mashed_penguin posted:Is the gimbal your design or is it a commercial one? I'm pretty keen to try sticking one on top of my 250. I'm going to order a mobius next week. The gimbal AUW with Mobius is 187g which is why I'm going to a Y6 to carry it. I am using 2208 motors but will try 2206s to try to save some weight.
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Apr 27, 2014 19:07
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Vitamin J posted:I've got both the Flying Mokey laser cut wood gimbal and the Klinker Aerospace 3D printed gimbal. I was going to use the lightest one but they are both pretty much identical in weight. Both designs are similar in the camera section, but the mounts are quite different. I like the Klinker mount better because it's smaller and less bulky, but it makes the gimbal assembly very long. Hmm that might be a bit porky to work well on my 4s 250. it hovers below 50% at 540g. That would probably push it into the 70% range.
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Apr 27, 2014 21:41
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I'm back with another question about the KK2.1.5 board & the 9x receiver, if y'all have the patience to answer another question. Does the receiver have a problem if I hook up multiple power/ground channels, (i.e. I use regular 3-channel servo cables to connect all five channels to the KK2 board), or should I strip out the power lines on everything other than the first channel? I know the KK2 board only takes power from the first ESC, and so you can get away with leaving the power lines in from ESCs 2-4. I'm hoping the receiver is the same way, so I can use the fifth channel to control the auto-level without messing with the cabling just yet.
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Apr 28, 2014 02:27
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How babbe is formed: Arcturas posted:I'm back with another question about the KK2.1.5 board & the 9x receiver, if y'all have the patience to answer another question. Does the receiver have a problem if I hook up multiple power/ground channels, (i.e. I use regular 3-channel servo cables to connect all five channels to the KK2 board), or should I strip out the power lines on everything other than the first channel? You're fine. Since the receiver is just getting its power from the board (which gets its power from ESC#1) then you don't have to worry about multiple leads to it. The situation you want to avoid is multiple voltage regulators trying to supply power to stuff.
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Apr 28, 2014 03:20
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Huzzah! Then I think I'm ready for my maiden voyage tomorrow. ESCs are programmed, ESCs are calibrated, rudder & pitch are reversed on my transmitter, when I armed the KK2 board, I was able to spin up the correct motors, and I'm excited to get going. I'm a little annoyed with the plastic adapter rings that came with the slow fly props I picked up. There isn't really a ring that fits snugly on the shaft of my motors. So I tossed on the plastic adapter ring that would fit around the threaded collet adapter shaft, and screwed them on as tight as I could while nudging the prop left and right to try and keep it as centered as I could. One of the plastic adapter rings might be able to be screwed onto the collet adapter shaft, but I'd basically be threading the inside of the plastic to screw it down. EDIT: Fixed the link to the motors. Arcturas fucked around with this message at 14:50 on Apr 28, 2014 |
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Apr 28, 2014 04:02
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Arcturas posted:One of the plastic adapter rings might be able to be screwed onto the collet adapter shaft, but I'd basically be threading the inside of the plastic to screw it down. Welcome to R/C
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Apr 28, 2014 06:04
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Arcturas posted:Huzzah! Then I think I'm ready for my maiden voyage tomorrow. ESCs are programmed, ESCs are calibrated, rudder & pitch are reversed on my transmitter, when I armed the KK2 board, I was able to spin up the correct motors, and I'm excited to get going. What motors are you using? The link you posted for them goes to the props. I don't fly any multis yet but I do a lot of 3D foamies with similar sized motors and props. The old GWS props had a hex on the inside. They got rid of this like a year and a half ago or so and now the inside is just round. Except that the diameter of the ID is bigger than the inscribed diameter of the old hex they used to have, so they included a bunch of plastic rings with them. Except the ID of those rings doesn't mach in the inside diameter of the hex they used to have. So you have to use an adapter ring that comes with the motor, and if you ever lose it after a crash you are hosed. Assuming the HK props are GWS knock-offs that's probably what's going on.Tangentially related: my new airplane is available from Twisted: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUGTx2nJCAc
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Apr 28, 2014 14:02
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Sorry about the link. I'll fix it when I get to a computer, but I think the motors are turnigy 2830's. EDIT: 2830/11's. Arcturas fucked around with this message at 14:49 on Apr 28, 2014 |
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Apr 28, 2014 14:25
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I spent some time last night with a spare case I had lying around and a hot glue gun to make a lunchtime mini quad case. The only thing I can't fit in there is the tripod. Once the new 2.4 dominator modules are available I can drop the tripod groundstation from the mini quad kit and take even less.
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Apr 28, 2014 17:34
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Wojcigitty posted:Tangentially related: my new airplane is available from Twisted: Yeah. Already ordered  (I hate you)
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Apr 28, 2014 17:50
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Yeah. Already ordered Nice, let me know how you like it. It kind of reminds me of the Mini Pitts in energy level when you fly at high throttle but with more precision. On 2S or with the throttle pulled back a bit it's a lot more gentle and stable than the Mini Pitts. It's also a lot easier to build and a lot more durable.
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Apr 28, 2014 18:03
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Sounds good:). I was about to order the Crack Yak,when you posted the hints on RCG, so decided to hold off. Starting on 2S, but will probably buy a stack of 3S lipos later. I'm starting to get comfortable with the Mini Pitts, but it's hard to find days where it's not too windy. This one should hopefully give me a bit bigger window to fly in (And be more durable!. My wife thinks I'm crazy as I keep rebuilding my larger scratchbuilds, when they inevitably break). The Mini Pitts has been a winner in that department...apart from a few hardware changes (servos), it's been my most reliable and durable plane and after I rebuilt the control rods, it's been a lot more precise too. ImplicitAssembler fucked around with this message at 18:21 on Apr 28, 2014 |
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Apr 28, 2014 18:16
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Sounds good:). I was about to order the Crack Yak,when you posted the hints on RCG, so decided to hold off. Yeah this is much better in the wind. In fact that video was done in 10-15 mph winds, that's why it's so much faster going left to right than when going right to left.
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Apr 28, 2014 19:03
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mashed_penguin posted:Hmm that might be a bit porky to work well on my 4s 250. it hovers below 50% at 540g. That would probably push it into the 70% range. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kv6kgP0vtoo
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Apr 28, 2014 20:48
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My Bixler 2 is on the way  and I already have the other accessories I purchased.I have never flown any RC aircraft before. I plan to dive straight into FPV because as far as I am concerned, when flying RC the aircraft is the one having all the fun and I'm not standing for that 
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