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Order Summary Items: $173.33 Shipping & handling: $70.50 Total before tax: $243.83 Estimated tax to be collected:* $0.00 Order total: $243.83 Getting better!!
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Apr 29, 2014 04:46
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| # ? Jun 9, 2024 17:13 |
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We are having a serious flea problem here and I gave my cats some over the counter drop stuff. Tonight my girl cat was drooling really bad and acting weird so I took her to the vet. Nothing major but the vet said we need to stop this over the counter poo poo and get her real flea medication. She was also due for shots, and doesn't have feline AIDS or leukemia. $117 for everything at 10:30pm on a Monday night.  No sweat I get my raise on the next pay cycle.  MULTIPLE WORKING CARS AND A WORKING CAT.
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Apr 29, 2014 04:50
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You know the rule, you can't mention a cat in an AI thread without pictures.
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Apr 29, 2014 05:00
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ultimateforce posted:
 It's nice to see some things kind of going your way.
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Apr 29, 2014 05:02
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Never though I'd see a working cat in a UF thread, I though you gutted most of them.  
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Apr 29, 2014 05:05
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ultimateforce posted:Current money to waste budget: $1000 Congratulations on paying off your loans!
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Apr 29, 2014 11:09
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EVERYWHERE 
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meatpimp posted:Congratulations on paying off your loans! I sold some stuff I had laying around?
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Apr 29, 2014 12:06
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ultimateforce posted:I sold some stuff I had laying around? He thinks you could put every single dime of expendable money you have into your loans.
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Apr 29, 2014 16:33
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ultimateforce posted:We are having a serious flea problem here and I gave my cats some over the counter drop stuff. Tonight my girl cat was drooling really bad and acting weird so I took her to the vet. Nothing major but the vet said we need to stop this over the counter poo poo and get her real flea medication. She was also due for shots, and doesn't have feline AIDS or leukemia.
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Apr 29, 2014 23:23
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http://www.comfortis.com/
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Apr 30, 2014 00:42
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In other project news... In a few years I plan on being completely debt free with some savings put away. Because I am starting kinda late in life and I have some fabrication skills I was seriously thinking about doing a kit house like this: http://www.firstdaycottage.com/Main.html
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Apr 30, 2014 00:44
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ultimateforce posted:
I just moved back to using my desktop as my main computer, and I forgot I had the XKCD Word Replacer extension installed, so that reads "Multiple working cats and a working cat." hosed with my head. Though it also replaces any reference to "electric" or "electronic" as "atomic," so reading the electric car thread was pretty fun. I removed the XKCD extension, but I'll never remove cloud-to-butt. You can pry that from my cold, dead hands.
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Apr 30, 2014 00:57
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Geirskogul posted:I just moved back to using my desktop as my main computer, and I forgot I had the XKCD Word Replacer extension installed, so that reads "Multiple working cats and a working cat." hosed with my head. Though it also replaces any reference to "electric" or "electronic" as "atomic," so reading the electric car thread was pretty fun. I removed the XKCD extension, but I'll never remove cloud-to-butt. You can pry that from my cold, dead hands. Excellent poo poo, my man.
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Apr 30, 2014 01:00
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W124: Sold S13: Sold SN95: Parts ordered to get it running SF5: Running great D21: Back in the mix Feels good, man. On a side note, these high payments are paying off. I am in the last year of student loan payments. 
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May 3, 2014 16:22
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ultimateforce posted:W124: Sold gently caress yeah
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May 3, 2014 16:24
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ultimateforce posted:W124: Sold
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May 3, 2014 16:35
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Congrats! What's an SF5?
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May 3, 2014 19:13
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mafoose posted:Congrats! I'm wondering this too but GIS shows a bunch of Subaru Foresters. Also, apparently UF owns an Alice Chalmers.
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May 3, 2014 19:26
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SF5 - Autocross build Engine: - EXEDY Stage 1 clutch : http://www.exedyusa.com/race_clutch/exedy_stage_1_clutch.php (Bought) - OEM replacement flywheel or resurface (TBD) - New rear main seal(s) - Megan engine / transmission mounts : http://www.meganracing.com/product_detail.asp?prodid=948&catid=97 - Oil change / filter change (Bought) - K&N air filter replacement Suspension: - Stock WRX wheels / tires (TBD) - WRX springs / dampers OR BC Racing coilovers Looking at helmets now, I need a new one to go drifting anyway. My current choice is this one (http://www.saferacer.com/bell-sport-ev-sa2010-auto-racing-helmet) but I am open to suggestions.
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May 4, 2014 16:05
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I thought subaru people mostly went with group N mounts, not megan racing? Not sure why, just sayin'.
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May 4, 2014 16:15
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The Megans are Group N copies. They are pretty nice on my S13 too.
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May 4, 2014 16:38
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Replace the flywheel, don't bother resurfacing. I doubt you need a new rear main seal, probably just need to replace the oil separator plate with a later steel or aluminum item. Group N is all that I've ever run; besides a general dislike of Megan Racing products the description of the product linked is wrong about a lot of stuff (mixing up Legacy, Impreza and STI facts, JDM vs. USDM confusion, misidentifying the application span). It's not a terrible price though. I'd check the vibration with and without the stock dogbone mount to see if the harder durometer is annoying. That helmet should be fine. Opt for post-04 WRX wagon springs and struts; the spring perch changes between 93-03 and 04+ (with other changes to tophats) so you'll get more spring options with an 04+ spring perch. You need to put bigger sways on this thing as well. Not sure what you have to do for rear tophats on an SF. I strongly suggest an ALK, though a lot of it depends on what class you're aiming for. General maintenance, in a hot climate I'd be looking at the coilpack, wires and plugs to be replaced. OEM air filter is usually good enough with the Subaru airbox design. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 16:45 on May 4, 2014 |
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May 4, 2014 16:40
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I thought the Forester was the DD that you weren't going to gently caress with? Jesus dude, if you're blowing money on two cars you're going to stay broke for sure.
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May 4, 2014 16:45
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leica posted:I thought the Forester was the DD that you weren't going to gently caress with? Jesus dude, if you're blowing money on two cars you're going to stay broke for sure. Its called a Daily Drifter for a reason, duh.
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May 4, 2014 16:50
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In my defense this is all maintenance for the Forester, sans the coilovers.
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May 4, 2014 17:02
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I doubt you need a new rear main seal, probably just need to replace the oil separator plate with a later steel or aluminum item. Ugh, the plastic oil separator. I'm 99% sure that's the cause of the leak in my 03, right where you'd expect, and has gotten bad enough over the past year I think I'm going to have to fix it instead of just ignoring it. So annoying, because I have no reason to pull the engine or drop the transmission to get to it. Guess I'll just bite the bullet when I hit 200k km this year and pay someone to pull the engine and do the headgaskets (still original, I think), timing belt and the oil separator. Here's a decent video I ran across a while back showing the problem: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ByYR4asTnjQ And yeah, from what I've read, the rear main seal on Subarus made after 2000 almost never leaks, and replacing it can actually cause a leak, because it can be a pain to get lined up just right. Though looks like as long as you only drive it in until it is flush, it should be fine. Any deeper can block the oil drain-back hole, which means leaks. And it can also leak if it's not evenly installed.
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May 5, 2014 03:01
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I might leave the seal. I am just used to changing them when I do a clutch.
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May 5, 2014 03:36
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Should you even change a seal if it's not leaking, just because "while you're in there"? I was gonna change the front seals on the Miata but I was thinking why bother if they aren't leaking, I could gently caress it up and make a leak that wasn't there to begin with.
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May 5, 2014 04:21
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OTOH it's real easy to make sure you do it right, and oh hey, now you don't have to worry about it for another 5 years. Assuming you don't gently caress up and drive it in too deep like I did my first rear main on the Protege.>_<
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May 5, 2014 04:24
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Don't gently caress with the RMS unless its hemoraging. If the separator plate is plastic, replace with metal. While the motor is out, reseal the oil pan. AND DONT BE A loving DUMBASS AND REPLACE THE RMS WHEN YOUR OIL LEAK IS ACTUALLY THE loving OIL PAN...... not that I'd know or anything..... loving subarus.
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May 5, 2014 04:25
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If you are absolutely sure of yourself and it's an easy one to change, sure. If it's an annoying seal to swap or you've never done that particular seal before, gently caress no. Asking for trouble. Especially if it's buried in the nether regions of your car. Supposedly there's some kitchen sink garbage disposal adapter drain piece that people buy just to use as a seal driver for Subaru rear mains because it's the perfect diameter, if you decide to replace it.
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May 5, 2014 04:28
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Fucknag posted:OTOH it's real easy to make sure you do it right, and oh hey, now you don't have to worry about it for another 5 years. Yeah but I was also trying to avoid removing the cam gears if I don't have to I suppose I'll have to see once I'm in there.
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May 5, 2014 04:29
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kastein posted:Supposedly there's some kitchen sink garbage disposal adapter drain piece that people buy just to use as a seal driver for Subaru rear mains because it's the perfect diameter, if you decide to replace it.   ChrisGT ended up getting my RMS in without using the flange, but it was a PITA and a Christmas miracle it doesn't leak.
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May 5, 2014 04:35
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I'll join in on the plastic plate pity party (but I still love you Subaru, I know you hit me because you love me). Also, I'll throw out a suggestion, instead of spending more on the Bell, consider getting something like this for a helmet (which I'll admit I own and have liked just as much as the Bell I owned before it): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003C1ZXWE/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Then you could use the money you save to get the better group N mounts instead of the Megan ones. Good job on the student loans. If you make it to a year maybe we can consider you an AI success story? 
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May 5, 2014 04:37
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Mat_Drinks posted:I'll join in on the plastic plate pity party (but I still love you Subaru, I know you hit me because you love me). That's a motorcycle helmet, so I wouldn't recommend it for auto stuff. Some events it may be ok but I'd rather get the right one for a little more and not have to worry about it being ok for certain events. However, I love my HJC (AR10) and will buy another when it expires since it's a SA2005. I tried buying a cheaper helmet at first but even in a larger size they wouldn't fit my massive dome and put too much pressure on my forehead. The AR10 was perfect and I did multiple two hour stints with it for Chumpcar without issue. Edit: sometimes this site has good prices and sales. http://www.soloracer.com/hjcar10ii.html Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 11:42 on May 5, 2014 |
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May 5, 2014 11:38
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It has to be SA2010 or newer to be legal.
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May 5, 2014 12:11
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Larrymer posted:That's a motorcycle helmet, so I wouldn't recommend it for auto stuff. Some events it may be ok but I'd rather get the right one for a little more and not have to worry about it being ok for certain events. Pardon the stupid question, but wouldn't motorcycle helmet be overbuilt and safer compared to in-car helmet?
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May 5, 2014 13:29
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iv46vi posted:Pardon the stupid question, but wouldn't motorcycle helmet be overbuilt and safer compared to in-car helmet? Rules are rules. Good on you for paying down the loans man. Imagine how it'll be when you're done.
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May 5, 2014 14:22
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No, the opposite. In a bike accident you fall once and stop. In a car your head bounces against poo poo (and possibly catches fire).
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May 5, 2014 14:22
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| # ? Jun 9, 2024 17:13 |
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The car helmet probably gets banged around just in regular use a lot more than a bike helmet. The bike helmet also prioritizes ram air ventilation and a wide eyeport, car apps don't really need either. On the other hand the bike helmet assumes you're hitting an immobile object at high speed (best case, the ground) and then maybe sliding a while, while a car helmet is built assuming you're mostly hitting other parts of the car that are going roughly the same speed you are. So a whole lot of cushioning for one big hit, while maintaining abrasion resistance, vs lower shock loads applied repeatedly and in multiple directions.
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May 5, 2014 14:47
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