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Galler posted:Here's everything you need in one package unless you're married to the idea of getting the PC. For some reason they don't have the exact same kit for the PC but you can more or less make one starting here. That kit is a excellent deal and I would jump all over it!
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Apr 27, 2014 20:08
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This may not be the right thread for it, but here goes: Window tinting I would like to tint the windows of my '13 Focus ST, however I'm a complete noob to the stuff. I've seen jobs that I would consider good looking, and I've also seen jobs that are complete poo poo (probably the roll-on/stick-on type tint)that leave bubbles everywhere after they've been on for a period of time. Can someone school me on the different types of tint that can be purchased from the aftermarket?
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Apr 28, 2014 03:45
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Use Yelp and find a reputable tint shop and have a professional install it. 3M is very popular and thats what I have. 25% on the side windows, 20% rear.
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Apr 28, 2014 03:52
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It's certainly something you can expect to do yourself without too much pain, MCM did a video on it a few years back that shows you what to do: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P2-b763DTpY Make sure you get good quality film and go slow when applying the film to minimise air bubbles.
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Apr 28, 2014 06:05
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Ephphatha posted:It's certainly something you can expect to do yourself without too much pain, MCM did a video on it a few years back that shows you what to do: What's it say about me that I recognize MCM videos by the title font?
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Apr 28, 2014 16:27
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I've never actually paid for a detail before, but someone gave me an amazon local deal for an interior + exterior detail. The voucher says they paid $130 for it, but it's (supposedly) a $275 value (from looking at their web site, it looks like it's more like $200). What do you typically tip the detailers? Do you do it by time spent or total value?
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Apr 28, 2014 16:45
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MomJeans420 posted:I've never actually paid for a detail before, but someone gave me an amazon local deal for an interior + exterior detail. The voucher says they paid $130 for it, but it's (supposedly) a $275 value (from looking at their web site, it looks like it's more like $200). What do you typically tip the detailers? Do you do it by time spent or total value? I wouldn't tip a detailer. He charged you 200$, pay the 200$. If you think he did his/her job above your expectations, paying more is always welcome. That said, a good detailer will have book times except for special cases such as the Subaru I am working on, at which point I would charge hourly.
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Apr 28, 2014 18:54
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meatpimp posted:Lexol, heavy, let it sit, don't rub it off... until the second or third application. It'll soften up, but depending on the color, it may look a bit worse... I ended up grabbing this kit at the last minute, because I wasn't sure I'd want 101oz of stuff I didn't like, and I'm the only one I know who has leather inside their vehicle in the nearby friends-n-family radius. I've just given the front seats in the '01 a treatment and I'm looking forward to the second. Other than the initial "Armor All" appearance, this seems to be one of the better looking brainless treatments that don't require 40,000 man hours to apply. Thanks for the suggestion! They look passable now, but I still need a couple more applications and to wait for them to soften up.
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Apr 29, 2014 21:14
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West SAAB Story posted:I ended up grabbing this kit at the last minute, because I wasn't sure I'd want 101oz of stuff I didn't like, and I'm the only one I know who has leather inside their vehicle in the nearby friends-n-family radius. If they are too shiny, wait for a day and buff them with a clean microfiber, they usually matte down nicely.
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Apr 29, 2014 21:45
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EVERYWHERE 
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meatpimp posted:If they are too shiny, wait for a day and buff them with a clean microfiber, they usually matte down nicely. I'll do that. I've only done the one application so far, and these
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Apr 29, 2014 21:56
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So, maybe I'm an idiot and don't understand how an orbital is supposed to work. I assumed that it was spinning circular pad, meet car. But when said pad meets the car, it completely stops spinning. I can literally grab it as it spins with my hand and it stops with almost no force. It still vibrates like mad of course. Looks like it's spinning, but that's just the orbiting weight, well, orbiting. Probably why they call it an orbital. I just thought it also rotated the pad some. Am I fundamentally dumb about how this is supposed to function? Or is there something wrong with my PC7424XP? Also what's the best way to wash the pads? Blame Pyrrhus fucked around with this message at 03:00 on Apr 30, 2014 |
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Apr 30, 2014 02:57
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How much weight are you putting on it?
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Apr 30, 2014 03:00
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West SAAB Story posted:How much weight are you putting on it? Enough to press it into any surface that isn't completely flat, which is most of the car. But I'm sure as poo poo not leaning into it!
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Apr 30, 2014 03:01
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Linux Nazi posted:So, maybe I'm an idiot and don't understand how an orbital is supposed to work. Dual action. High-speed orbiting (center of the pad moves in a circle), low-speed rotation (rotating around the center). The orbit is just like the circular hand polishing motion (think wax on/wax off), the rotation would be equivalent to turning the rag as you hand polish. It's meant to be low torque, so it doesn't keep turning when you lean on it and burn through the paint.
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Apr 30, 2014 03:04
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Ya stop paying attention to the spinning and just do nice passes at moderate pressure. I then go really light at the final buffing stage and let it spin up more.
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Apr 30, 2014 03:07
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Linux Nazi posted:Enough to press it into any surface that isn't completely flat, which is most of the car. But I'm sure as poo poo not leaning into it! Then you're doing right, as long as you move it around? 
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Apr 30, 2014 03:08
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Holy poo poo the wax on wax off reference completely explained it to me. Finally being born in the late 70s pays dividends. I mean it seems to be working, here's the before and after so far:   Same area. My question about washing the pads still stands, just water in the garage faucet? Ring it out? Again thanks for the help all!
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Apr 30, 2014 03:14
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I usually wash it under a faucet and then reattach it to the orbital and spin it up and use an old toothbrush to brush off dried on wax/etc. Looks good!
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Apr 30, 2014 03:18
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Chinatown posted:I usually wash it under a faucet and then reattach it to the orbital and spin it up and use an old toothbrush to brush off dried on wax/etc. Sounds like cheating. I like it!
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Apr 30, 2014 03:20
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Looks like you got it figured out but one of the Autogeek videos said to draw a sharpie line on the backing pad thingy so you can tell if it's spinning or not since it's hard to tell normally.
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Apr 30, 2014 03:36
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OH HELLO AGAIN. Does Marcellus Wallace look like a bitch?  I DON'T loving THINK SO.  Trip report with the steam cleaner: I have never had so much fun cleaning poo poo ever. All the dirt just melts away, and quickly too. I would suggest though getting the McCulloch MC1375 Canister Steam System for a few reasons: 1) Larger capacity. 2) More PSI. The product is really REALLY well built, and worked wonders on everything it touched. The seats though, good lord that seat. I had to quadruple attack the seat to get it to look stock again. First I sprayed on PURE loving D101. I have NEVER had to do that to any fabric I have EVER come accross. NEXT I steamed the gently caress out of the D101, getting it ultra hot. NEXT I used the PC7424xp with the nylon bristles to get the D101 ultra foamy. LAST I used my Rug cleaner to suck up the soap. As for the interior: The McCulloch did everything and more that I could have hoped for. It wrecked through all the little lines in the steering wheel, it plowed through the numbers on gear shifter. It DESTROYED any remains of arm grease on the door panel. Marcellus Wallace wasn't a bitch because he had a motherfucking steam cleaner.
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Apr 30, 2014 05:25
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Linux Nazi posted:So, maybe I'm an idiot and don't understand how an orbital is supposed to work. The pad isn't forced rotation on a normal DA. The circular motion of the pad is just coming from the centripetal force of the random orbital rotation. The only forced rotation DA I can think of is the FLEX XC 3401 VRG. In theory the longer throw machines like the RUPES Bigfoot LHR21ES are harder to stop than something like a PC 7424XP. I think the throw of the PC 7424, GG6, and Meg's G110 is 8mm where the RUPES Bigfoot is 21mm. On curved areas of a vehicle it's very easy to stop the rotation of a DA. On areas like bumpers it is much better to get smaller backing plates and smaller pads. Even then, you can only use very light pressure on really tight places before a DA will stop spinning. As mentioned, you should draw a line on your backing plate with a permanent pen to let you easily see when the pad has stopped rotating. It doesn't have to be spinning quickly, but you should try to keep the pad spinning. To clean, I brush the pads with the DA on low to get some of the dried product out, then toss them in a bucket of soap water/degreaser/APC, squeeze it through and let it soak for a bit before squeezing them a bit more, rinse. Squeeze out the water and dry them backing side up.
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Apr 30, 2014 06:08
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That's looking nice, ratbert! I stole my friend's steamer when I was working on the MR2. He didn't like it, I think it's awesome. It works great for cleaning showers, too. As far as pads, I've always cleaned them with warm water and a tight squeeze to dry (no wringing, just direct pressure). I just got some Chemical Guys pad cleaner in a kit order from them, but haven't tried it yet: http://www.chemicalguys.com/Chemical_Guys_BUF_333_16_Foam_Wool_Pad_Cleaner_p/buf_333_16.htm I don't know if a specialty product just for pad cleaning is necessary... maybe I'll change my mind once I use it?
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Apr 30, 2014 12:06
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ratbert90 posted:OH HELLO AGAIN. Seeing where this car was, and where it is now, is oddly satisfying. Fantastic job, ratbert.
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Apr 30, 2014 12:14
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How does the steam cleaner work? Is it like a pressure washer with steam? I have a steamer, but I guess its for clothes as steam just comes out of it like you were waving whatever you have over a pot of boiling water. That doesn't clean anything.
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Apr 30, 2014 21:39
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Linux Nazi posted:Am I fundamentally dumb Well... ratbert90 posted:
That's pretty amazing. Luckily I haven't run into anything that bad that I'd need a steamer, but I'll keep it in mind when I go Craigslist shopping that you can clean an amazing amount of poo poo off the car.
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May 1, 2014 00:27
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subx posted:Well... Indeed. My rule is this: If it isn't physically deep scratched or broken, it can be cleaned.
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May 1, 2014 03:14
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I have a steamer (Scunci Pro 1600) and haven't had great luck with using it in a car, I mostly leave splotches everywhere. I have a similar tool loadout (carpet, nylon/brass brushes, crevice tools), is there a method to using it effectively? Also, is 303 Protectant still one of the better products to use? I'm going to be doing what I can to limp a sun-damaged interior back to usable, if not decent shape.
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May 1, 2014 17:04
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DJ Commie posted:I have a steamer (Scunci Pro 1600) and haven't had great luck with using it in a car, I mostly leave splotches everywhere. I have a similar tool loadout (carpet, nylon/brass brushes, crevice tools), is there a method to using it effectively? For splotches nothing really beats some 10:1 APC with a microfiber rag and a soft bristle brush. The steam cleaner is great for horrible stains and mold and getting into crevices really really easily. And yes, 303 is still a really good product to use. Today I am going to detail the 258,000 mile never-been-washed EJ22! Pictures to come this evening!
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May 1, 2014 18:41
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ratbert90 posted:Today I am going to detail the 258,000 mile never-been-washed EJ22! Pictures to come this evening! Really looking forward to this! I've never done my engine bay so any and all detail on what you use and how you use it will be super helpful.
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May 1, 2014 18:53
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Folderol posted:Really looking forward to this! I've never done my engine bay so any and all detail on what you use and how you use it will be super helpful. Well, I will be hitting it with a two step process. Most (99%) of the time you won't have to use a pressure washer, but the caked on road grime from 22 years of never being cleaned is so thick that a pressure washer is going to be necessary for the heads/block. I need to have them clean in order to see any oil/other fluids leaking from the motor. For the rest of the engine bay, I will be using D101, a garden hose, and a steam cleaner for the majority of agitating dirt and cleaning any plastics and material. Pictures to come soon!
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May 1, 2014 21:04
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Thank you, ratbert and detailing thread. I spent about 4 hours last night wrapping up my car, even went so far as to claybar every area I was working on (since I caused some scratches as I was eliminating others, and suspect I had foreign bodies working against me). Now I have a fantastic mirror finish on my car, which has had various microscratches, spiderwebbing, and swirlies on it since I bought it. This owns. Too bad I live in AZ and dust is conspiring against me, but for now it looks great, and hopefully careful washing keeps it that way. Edit: I should mention, one more thing that really helped me as I went along was this rather bright LED light I borrowed from work.  If I worked an area, this exposed any post-work flaws pretty quick. subx posted:Well... HEY! Easy there, Smalls... Blame Pyrrhus fucked around with this message at 21:42 on May 1, 2014 |
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May 1, 2014 21:35
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Oh hello thread. I didn't forget you, I have stockholm syndrome!  Yesterday I said I would work on the engine! Why you ask? Two reasons. 1) It's loving filthy. 2) My mechanic is going to be by and looking at it, and you can't find fluid leaks if there's a shitload of built up grease grime dirt and probably cum on the engine. So let's begin! Step 1) Open hood and take pictures.  Did I mention it was filthy? That picture probably didn't give it justice.  Oh yeah: :heh:  So first things first! Wrap up electronic components in bags and aluminum foil to make sure that they will be dry.  Next Spray down everything with a 10:1 solution of D101.  Next start hitting it with the power washer. I started with the heads:  Not bad Mccloud!  Next up lets hit up the black hood! Huh, it's gold!  Then I dried everything with a towel. Yes a straight up regular towel. Because it's an engine, which means that it't not paint.  And that's how you clean an engine! Edit* I was running out of daylight, and I realize there is still some dust left on the engine, I will clean the rest tomorrow.
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May 2, 2014 04:37
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I just realized my wife's tires (which don't get cleaned/dressed that often) are brown, I'm guessing that's from the tire shine gel I use? I had heard before that tire dressing will eventually make them brown. My car just got a new set of tires, is there anything that won't make them brown? Of course I haven't really noticed it on previous tires, but I'd like to avoid it either way.
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May 2, 2014 06:07
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Use a water based product. I've been using this: http://www.autopia.org/forum/topic/126988-3ds-ultra-protectant-great-tire-shine/ If you have ArmorAll or whatever make sure to store that in your trash can for later non-use and disposal.
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May 2, 2014 06:11
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My 15 year old ugly black car that has sat outside for, well, probably 15 years shows major waterspotting after it dries. Beyond elbow grease - what can I do to try to bring out what is left of the paint? 
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May 2, 2014 08:54
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Linux Nazi posted:Too bad I live in AZ and dust is conspiring against me, but for now it looks great, and hopefully careful washing keeps it that way. We get the pollen here, which is just as bad. Maybe worse as water alone doesn't always get it off, since it likes to stick. I haven't found any way of keeping it from layering the car. As in: Wash the car on Sat/Sun and it's got a film of yellow poo poo by Tuesday. I cover the BRZ in the garage (that poo poo even gets in there in the spring), but as far as I know there is nothing I can do to the Mariner that sits outside. If anyone has suggestions I'd try just about anything. On another note, anyone know what material would be good for taking off those little sharpie marks that get put on when a car goes to auction? My moms car has a little black "x" on each headlight I want to remove for her, but I don't want to hurt the headlight UV protection.
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May 2, 2014 16:36
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MomJeans420 posted:I just realized my wife's tires (which don't get cleaned/dressed that often) are brown, I'm guessing that's from the tire shine gel I use? I had heard before that tire dressing will eventually make them brown. My car just got a new set of tires, is there anything that won't make them brown? Of course I haven't really noticed it on previous tires, but I'd like to avoid it either way. The tires are brown from being tires. If you use no tire dressing for the life of the tire they'll still turn brown; the rubber is doped up with protective agents which naturally turn brown as they're exposed to ozone. To make the tires less brown, you can simply clean them. They will then gradually brown again as a new layer of exposed antiozonants builds up. To make them black (and blacker for longer), you can dress them. You're not harming the tire with a dressing—or making them browner—unless you're using something really terrible. As long as you stay out of the 99 cent store, you're probably fine with just about anything on the shelf today.
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May 2, 2014 16:57
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subx posted:On another note, anyone know what material would be good for taking off those little sharpie marks that get put on when a car goes to auction? My moms car has a little black "x" on each headlight I want to remove for her, but I don't want to hurt the headlight UV protection. I've not used it on a car, but I've had great luck writing over a sharpie with a dry erase pen, and then wiping both off. Always worked for me.
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May 2, 2014 17:08
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| # ? May 26, 2024 02:14 |
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West SAAB Story posted:My 15 year old ugly black car that has sat outside for, well, probably 15 years shows major waterspotting after it dries. Beyond elbow grease - what can I do to try to bring out what is left of the paint? I once had some hard water spotting that sat long enough it etched the clear. Nothing short of a full polish will get rid of it.
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May 2, 2014 18:16
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