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Hi guys I'm working on a prusa i3 with nema 17 steppers motors. Can someone confirm that I have the right wire color pins association with the ramps 1.4 board? ie: 2B=red etc etc. I tried to spin the motors with pronterface but they were really weak for some reason. http://imgur.com/6XNnmc9 Thanks
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Apr 30, 2014 03:12
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madkapitolist posted:Hi guys I'm working on a prusa i3 with nema 17 steppers motors. Can someone confirm that I have the right wire color pins association with the ramps 1.4 board? ie: 2B=red etc etc. I tried to spin the motors with pronterface but they were really weak for some reason. I've never used one but this article has a lot of wiring diagrams (they use red blue green black but I assume the color is not as important as going from the right pin to the right bit on the motor): http://www.nextdayreprap.co.uk/wiring-reprap-prusa-mendel-build-manual/
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Apr 30, 2014 03:22
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madkapitolist posted:Hi guys I'm working on a prusa i3 with nema 17 steppers motors. Can someone confirm that I have the right wire color pins association with the ramps 1.4 board? ie: 2B=red etc etc. I tried to spin the motors with pronterface but they were really weak for some reason. This is my most used resource: http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4 and http://reprap.org/mediawiki/images/6/6d/Rampswire14.svg From what I've gathered with steppers is, the first 2 and second 2's color aren't critical, but they do affect the rotational direction. If it's plugged in backwards the motor will move backwards. As far as weakness that's a function of the amperage getting supplied from the stepper driver. You could measure the voltage coming off the driver to see what amps you're running. Might help to turn it up http://reprap.org/wiki/Pololu_stepper_driver_board#Tuning_motor_current
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Apr 30, 2014 15:14
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So I've been loaned a Makerbot Replicator 2, with the stipulation that I do the extruder upgrade. Having done that, I was looking around for other mods/upgrades to do to it, and came across the Sailfish firmware. Is this something worth doing? I've dialed in the settings, and done 3 prints, with only one of them having any kind of issues (lack of support material in the model). Also, are there any dual-extruder mods for it? That'd be pretty cool to have.
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May 1, 2014 19:41
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I haven't done it personally on my 2x but my friend upgraded his 2 to sailfish and highly recommends it. I'm not sure if it's possible to upgrade to dual extruders. It sounds like they neutered the motherboard to remove the dual extrusion options for the 2 motherboard. If it is possible the only real difference between the two is the x carriage. I personally don't care for the makerbot hot end. I'd replace it with something like the hexagon or e3d. I think it's dumb to use the stepper motor as part of the heatsink.
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May 1, 2014 20:50
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What are the best 3D modelling software options for Linux?
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May 2, 2014 23:07
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Cheekio posted:What are the best 3D modelling software options for Linux? I don't understand the question.
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May 2, 2014 23:10
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Personally I prefer FreeCAD. OpenSCAD is very popular with the reprap/thingiverse crowd if you want a scripted thing(FreeCAD can also be scripted in Python). I've also found MeshLab useful on occasion for fixing up existing STL files. Wings3D is another interesting modeler I've played around with but never really made anything of note with it. And there's always Blender which I guess is really powerful but I could never get past the learning curve of its UI.
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May 2, 2014 23:13
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So I've never really been a 3D printer guy, but I just got thrown into the mix at work and basically got told, "hey, make this work." They've got a Rostock MAX with a RAMBo 1.2 board. I've got it working with Repetier-firmware and the Repetier software. Kinda. When I home ti with G28 or use the jog buttons, everything seems to respond appropriately. With I move Z down 10mm, it does it. The output prints out "G1 Z-10 f100" When I type "G1 Z-10 f100", it just keeps going, and going, and going, though. "G1 Z-10 f4800" makes it go down very very fast, but no change if I use Z-1, for example. What's the deal? That's just the first step, though, I was put on the job because it has an issue with the filament sticking. I suspect that has something to do with the bowden tube angles, but I can't really troubleshoot that without being able to properly enter GCode. edit: or possibly the hot end getting jammed up Man, these software tools are pieces of poo poo. ante fucked around with this message at 03:02 on May 3, 2014 |
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May 3, 2014 02:58
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thegasman2000 posted:I read back a few pages, I stalked a while ago when I wanted a printer but evenetually decide it was still to expensive, but has anyone seen and discussed this? I pledged on this a few weeks ago and then just backed out on it at the eleventh hour because I figured I should think harder on it. Was worried that at worst this is going to be a piece of poo poo, they won't ship on time, or at very best they'll sit on $300 of my money for 7 months while I have no 3D printer. It also has a fairly small build envelope at basically 4" cubed. I'm expecting that I'll want to make bigger things and end up buying something bigger anyway. So now I come to you sage folks with a few questions. My previous experience with 3D printing has been a night school class I took last summer, covering some 3D modeling techniques with Rhino and printing on a Makerbot 2. I think a Makerbot is probably too rich for my blood. Is there a decent 3D printer I can get for $1200 or less? While I fully expect that anything I buy will not be a turnkey device, if I am likely going to have a bad experience with anything at that price point then I'm perfectly happy sitting this round out.
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May 3, 2014 21:04
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Hi guys! My friend and I have an idea to make a community website where people with 3D printers can take jobs and make money. Would this be something ya'll might be interested in? And how much would you need to be paid before thinking about accepting the job? We started thinking about this because I've had a number of people approach me via Etsy for either large projects I can't take, or for things they need ASAP. This way you could outsource a large project to multiple people or get something printed near by and pick it up same day. I just wanted to get input on this before we do anything further and I value your opinions.
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May 3, 2014 22:22
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Sounds a little like makexyz.com - any significant differences? I never had luck with local printers for jobs but that's regional probably.
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May 3, 2014 23:02
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You'll be competing with makexyz.com and 3dhubs.com, at a minimum. I'm sure there's others.
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May 4, 2014 05:16
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Korovyev posted:I just wanted to get input on this before we do anything further and I value your opinions. There are two dozen awful services that have tried to do this. What are you going to do to improve on what has failed so far? edit: I'm a little bitter about this because I either get invited to write about yet-another-launch or spammed to sell my services over and over
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May 4, 2014 05:28
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After looking into those sites, it seems like the niche has been filled. We started out wanting to make an entire community website for design and local fulfillment, but its way too much to tackle at once with only 2 people and no multimillion dollar backing. We're going to put everything on hold for a while and see where all these sites go--and possible use our domain for getting a more selective group of designers and 3D printers together that have been vetted to be fantastic at what they do--for the more business/professional oriented projects. I had to make 160 anatomical hearts on my Replicator 2, and would have loved to had a 2nd one operated by someone I trusted to do good work churning away to speed up the order.
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May 4, 2014 16:40
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I ended up with a gig like that from makexyz.com. A guy contacted me and had me print a part, with little context. I printed, and shipped, and all was normal. Then he messaged me a few days later and asked "so, how much for 200 of them?" In the end, he's paying for just machine time, because he sent me $400 of MatterHackers filament. It's worked out well.
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May 4, 2014 17:10
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ante posted:So I've never really been a 3D printer guy, but I just got thrown into the mix at work and basically got told, "hey, make this work." You're telling it to go 10 below 0 in the Z axis (ie. crash the head against the build plate). Have you ever used G-code before? As far as sticking goes, could be related to all sorts of things including: Filament - quality, air exposure, contaminants, etc Overheating of the PEEK section - PLA is especially picky on the transition point Extruder - grip, feed speed, etc Spool - is it getting caught as the extruder pulls in filament or does it turn easily? Lots to look at, it will take a bit to get tuned. I'd highly suggest posting over in the seemecnc.com forums as the community is literally one of the best reasons to go with a Rostock Max. Fatal fucked around with this message at 05:15 on May 5, 2014 |
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May 5, 2014 05:09
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Thanks for the reply. No, I have never used G-Code before, but isn't the position relative? The Repetier software outputs the G-Code that it sends to the machine, and that at least is always Z-10 or Z-1 for going down ten or one mm. I'll give absolute coordinates a shot tomorrow morning, and I'll take another look at the community forums, thanks. I'm pretty sure the filament slipping issue is one of those two things, but I'll know more tomorrow.
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May 5, 2014 06:07
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ante posted:Thanks for the reply. No, I have never used G-Code before, but isn't the position relative? Depends what your firmware default is set to. Send a G91 to set it to relative positioning before issuing commands. I never assume my machines are in a specific state.
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May 5, 2014 11:13
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ante posted:Thanks for the reply. No, I have never used G-Code before, but isn't the position relative? The Repetier software outputs the G-Code that it sends to the machine, and that at least is always Z-10 or Z-1 for going down ten or one mm. I'll give absolute coordinates a shot tomorrow morning, and I'll take another look at the community forums, thanks. Sounds good, depending on when it was purchased it can have pretty different configurations when it comes to the extruder and hot end, the first iteration isn't exactly great compared to what it comes with now. I found a good increase in quality of models by upgrading the extruder and hot end (approx $100 in cost). The first generation extruder is especially finicky, I'd suggest upgrading it at the very least to the current model, it's like a $40 part and prevents alot of headache. This thing: http://seemecnc.com/collections/parts-accesories/products/ezstruder-cold-end-kit
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May 7, 2014 01:16
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Yeah, spent most of the day with it again today. It came with RAMBo 1.2, the latest one, so I'm assuming the parts are the newest iterations. There's not really any way to tell, though, from what I can tell. The hot end jammed in the morning. I pulled it out and cleaned it up, and the melted PLA was all the way up to the bowden tube, even with the fan on full, so I put it all back together and managed to print off a shroud. It still jammed up again right before I left. If it's the same issue when I take a look at it tomorrow, I'll probably just put in an order for a different hot end. It looks like there are some decent adapters for the E3D one, and $60 or whatever is pretty reasonable for my company compared to spending another day loving around with it. Does that all sound reasonable? I know the E3D one had some jamming issues with PLA, but it looks like they managed to fix it by drilling the bore down to 0.5mm long.
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May 7, 2014 02:30
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My printer generates some fantastic prints except the interior dimensions of small holes are always way off. A 6mm diameter hole comes up 5.5mm. The error is pretty consistent, a 10mm hole comes up 9.5mm. I've printed a couple dozen of these test object that has a M3 horizontal nut trap in it. There's one 6.2mm diameter (standard size), 6.4mm, 6.6mm, and a 6.2x5.4 rectangle.  My steps per mm for extrusion is calculated to less than 1% error, and the exterior dimensions are spot on (<0.1mm). I've examined the gcode and the 6.2mm nut is actually laid out with 6.9mm between the points, which given 0.6mm extrusion width should still end up with a ~6.3mm hole, not 5.5mm! I normally print 0.3mm layers with 0.6mm extrusion on a 0.5mm nozzle, but in my tests I've gone down to 0.1mm with 0.5mm width. I've cut the extrusion amount by up to 30%, high speed, low speed, different extrusion widths, Z-home offsets, and extruder temperatures. I've also tightened the GT2 belts on my Prusa i3 to the point you can tightrope walk on them to eliminate potential backlash. If I slice the model with 0.250mm inset the holes come out perfect but then the external dimensions are off by 0.5mm. I know holes naturally shrink a little so you've got to make them slightly bigger, but I've got a friend who can print an object on his home-grown printer and it comes out dimensionally perfect and I want to get to that point. I've run out of things to try, and he's out of suggestions (other than to build another printer or change hotends). Anyone got anything I should try?
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May 7, 2014 14:27
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CapnBry posted:My printer generates some fantastic prints except the interior dimensions of small holes are always way off. A 6mm diameter hole comes up 5.5mm. The error is pretty consistent, a 10mm hole comes up 9.5mm. I'm thinking that it's extruding too much plastic, which would cause everything to expand (and thus the holes to contract), but shrink the model down to compensate for the external creep (which would also shrink the internal holes). It's hard to say what causes this with a well calibrated extruder but the most likely scenario is that your filament averages too large. A way to experiment with this is to watch it print out some small pieces with 100% infill, and see if there is excess plastic deposited Or you could try just cutting down extrusion bump up the size of the parts some (either in size of model, or steps per mm of the x/y axis), and see if that starts to correct it.
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May 7, 2014 15:24
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CapnBry posted:My printer generates some fantastic prints except the interior dimensions of small holes are always way off. A 6mm diameter hole comes up 5.5mm. The error is pretty consistent, a 10mm hole comes up 9.5mm. Are you using Slic3r? It's got bugs with hole diameters.
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May 7, 2014 21:36
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Aurium posted:I'm thinking that it's extruding too much plastic, which would cause everything to expand (and thus the holes to contract) insta posted:Are you using Slic3r? It's got bugs with hole diameters. Thanks for the suggestions though, guys. I'll keep poking away at it.
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May 8, 2014 16:32
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Is the FlashForge Creator X good or poo poo? The reviews I've encountered thus far seem to say it's basically a clone of the Makerbot 2X, with nearly the same output quality, but at half the price.
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May 8, 2014 17:03
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kitten smoothie posted:Is the FlashForge Creator X good or poo poo? The reviews I've encountered thus far seem to say it's basically a clone of the Makerbot 2X, with nearly the same output quality, but at half the price. It's a clone of the original Replicator, just with a metal casing and other mechanical improvements over the original Creator/Replicator. Only issue I've had with my Creator so far is that one of the guides to my pulleys keeps coming loose and I have to re-seat the belt. The X has extra pillow blocks so it can't have that problem. edit: Also, I won $200 worth of filament from MatterHackers  I have no idea what I'm going to use the SoftPLA and laywood for.
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May 8, 2014 21:49
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Any recommendations on the current state-of-the-art of DIY printers? I've got a bunch of brand new NEMA 17 steppers and I'd like to do something with them, but I'm not sure what designs are considered best of breed right now. A supply-your-own-expensive-parts kit would also be fine.
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May 9, 2014 15:32
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Deltas are the new hotness. Honestly, and I keep beating this drum, I really like the Mendel90...
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May 9, 2014 16:32
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insta posted:
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May 9, 2014 22:07
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ante posted:Yeah, spent most of the day with it again today. Yup, the E3D hotends are quite nice, I'm currently using their 4 headed version and it's legit.
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May 9, 2014 22:31
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Really starting to regret going for the qubd kick starter instead of saving up for something proper.
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May 9, 2014 22:35
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Rapulum_Dei posted:I'm close to pressing the button on a Prusa i3 which looks almost the same. Except it's worse in almost every way, but OK.
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May 9, 2014 23:43
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Except the Mendel90 is fugly and the Prusa i3 is a bit more aesthetically pleasing. That said they're both really ugly. I still want a Rostock Max. Fatal posted:Yup, the E3D hotends are quite nice, I'm currently using their 4 headed version and it's legit. Supposedly the length of the orifice in the nozzle can be up to 1.5mm. I've had a lot of jamming with my E3D's and some people have found success reducing the orifice length to .5mm MickRaider fucked around with this message at 00:20 on May 10, 2014 |
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May 10, 2014 00:17
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I don't think I give a rats rear end how ugly it is as long as it prints well. I'm looking at the Mendel90, seeing a lot of parts that appear to be custom, is that an issue? I do know someone with a printer, could probably get him to print the custom parts if I need to.
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May 10, 2014 00:21
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I know three dudes that use a 3D printer in a professional capacity (other than me now, I guess), and they all have i3s
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May 10, 2014 01:20
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Bad Munki posted:I don't think I give a rats rear end how ugly it is as long as it prints well. You generally need parts printed for your printer, i3, Mendel90, whatever. The Mendel90 is easier to source parts (no water jet cutter needed), and is more stable wobble-wise. I trust nophead a lot more than Prusa after following both for years.
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May 10, 2014 05:05
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Loving Africa Chaps posted:Really starting to regret going for the qubd kick starter instead of saving up for something proper. You too? I'm batch 3, not looking good so far. I'm wondering if they're going to try and sell some at the Maker Faire they're going to next week.
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May 10, 2014 20:11
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I was looking on the RepRap wiki and am thinking about buying a kit (or a kit that had some of the metal bits) but I would like to build one that has a makerbot equivalent build size. Any ideas on a model that has that kind of build size? I have access to a makerbot and a laser cutting to make the bits that can be made, but I am just looking for the right one with a good size build volume.
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May 11, 2014 04:25
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Bonanza.com has 9x12 inch silicone mat heaters for 20 bucks, 1250w @ 120v. Build a Prusa2 and scale the X dimension wider (which is pretty easy and does not require modified printed parts, only rods and belts). Frankenprusas are kind of awesome, the enormous build volume spoils you. 9x12 may also be the stock build volume of a MendelMax
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May 11, 2014 15:51
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