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The Duggler posted:Are GTX 770's frequently used for mining? I am looking at Kijiji/craigslist and there are some great deals to be had, but I don't really want a card that was running full time for months at a time. No not for nvidia, as far as I know basically never. 750tis were feasible, but then it died off. 280x has better memory bandwidth and can make use of 3gb. It can deal with higher resolutions with better performance, but in particular with AA. But they are close. At 1080p the 770 is about the same or beats the 280x sometimes. 280x's were off the radar for a long time because of the price but now they are actually lower than a 770 new at the moment. edit: I like nvidia, but I've liked AMD too. I'd probably own a 280x if I was going to stay single card and it was cheaper than a 770. I see the value in higher memory bandwidth + more memory. Ignoarints fucked around with this message at 16:37 on May 1, 2014 |
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May 1, 2014 16:30
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The Duggler posted:I don't want to mine, I want to know if I buy a used card if it's likely that it was previously used for mining. I figured that a seller wouldn't tell me that they used it that hard. You dont have to worry about nvidia cards and mining.
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May 1, 2014 16:31
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Ignoarints posted:No not for nvidia, as far as I know basically never. 750tis were feasible, but then it died off. Thanks a lot, I am a total dumbass when it comes to this stuff. If I just play to play on single monitor and 1080p a GTX 770 sounds like the way to go. Does the size of the screen I am going to be playing on matter? Do I want 3GB of VRAM if I am playing on say, a larger TV and not a monitor? Don Lapre posted:You dont have to worry about nvidia cards and mining. Thank you for this as well, good to know I don't have to worry about getting a such a worn out GPU secondhand.
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May 1, 2014 16:37
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The Duggler posted:Thanks a lot, I am a total dumbass when it comes to this stuff. If I just play to play on single monitor and 1080p a GTX 770 sounds like the way to go. Does the size of the screen I am going to be playing on matter? Do I want 3GB of VRAM if I am playing on say, a larger TV and not a monitor? You can't go wrong with either for 1080p. If you're talking strictly used, I'd just go with a 770 and make it simple. Screen size is unimportant. 770's only come in 2gb or 4gb, buy 2gb. 4gb only help (for a 770 not in general) with very high resolutions (3x monitors, 2x 1440p, 4k) but the performance is so extremely poor it doesn't matter. In theory 4gb should be better for SLI, but the jury's out if it actually matters before the bandwidth bottleneck is hit and thus performance is too lovely anyway. I'm pretty jealous if you're finding good used 770's, I had a really hard time with that (although eventually I did). I ended up just buying another new though.
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May 1, 2014 16:41
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corinthian68 posted:I wasn't sure whether to post this here or in the parts picking thread. I'm going with here since it seems to be the more "enthusiast" end of the spectrum, but if I should have posted in the other thread then let me know and I'll move over there. 290s have fixed the crossfire pacing issues. Basically any board made in the past 5 years can do crossfire, it was SLI that sometimes was not supported. I'm running triple 290x and on games that actually support multiple cards it is glorious.
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May 1, 2014 16:43
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Sold my GTX 680 to a friend and bought a used Sapphire Tri-X R9 290 off eBay. Just wasn't cutting it anymore at 1440p. I was worried that I wouldn't notice the difference but it's a nice upgrade, my min fps has improved by at least 10fps and games seem much smoother.
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May 1, 2014 21:10
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I believe my PowerColor AX6750 Radeon HD 6750 is on it's last legs. Getting flickering vertical lines and intermittent hard locks after about 30 minutes of gaming or watching video. It had a good 3.5 year run, and it's time to retire it. It ran and still runs everything I play well until it starts to poo poo the bed, but with new releases I do notice I will have to tweak some settings down to get a real smooth framerate. I'm looking at ~$100 options, and I'm leaning towards the MSI R7 260X. The R7 250's can be found for cheaper, and I'm wondering if my processor might bottleneck any performance boosts I may get from the beefier 260X. I'm running a i3-2100 with a Thermaltake cooler, 8GB Crucial DDR3 1333 (PC3 10600), and a 460W Cooler Master PSU. Also, if there are any nVidia GPUs that are comparable in price and performance, feel free to recommend them. I've just always been an ATI/AMD Guy for graphics cards, so that's what I'm familiar with. e: vvv Thanks, will do. Cool Post Beg fucked around with this message at 05:42 on May 2, 2014 |
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May 1, 2014 21:29
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Don Lapre posted:You dont have to worry about nvidia cards and mining. All Nvidia cards are worthless for mining except the 750/750ti which the most energy efficient mining possible, even over AMD. One 750ti running all month will still earn about $20, so plenty of people still mine with them. On the other hand, they don't support overvolting and the dual fan models run at 50c at full load, so it's not like there's any real wear-and-tear to speak of.
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May 1, 2014 22:16
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beggar posted:I believe my PowerColor AX6750 Radeon HD 6750 is on it's last legs. Getting flickering vertical lines and intermittent hard locks after about 30 minutes of gaming or watching video. It had a good 3.5 year run, and it's time to retire it. It ran and still runs everything I play well until it starts to poo poo the bed, but with new releases I do notice I will have to tweak some settings down to get a real smooth framerate. Jump over to the parts picking thread, they'll give you some great advice (or just read the OP). BTW, they'll want to know your monitor's resolution too.
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May 2, 2014 04:06
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I got a single 780ti yesterday, but I'm still on my 1200p monitor. Unfortunately I seem to be having a problem where the PC crashes if the GPU is under heavy load. I tried it while running benchmarks for both Tomb raider and Rome Total War 2, and it crashes with both of them once I crank up the settings to High or just above. This is an entirely clean install of Windows so I don't think it's a problem with the old drivers or anything. I'm not sure if it's a bad card or a bad power supply. I've got an ASUS GPU and a Seasonic 750W PSU which both seem like reliable brands. Apart from the GPU I don't have anything else that would be a heavy power draw aside from a Haswell CPU. I ran GPU-Z so I could log my GPU temps etc but looking at the numbers I can't seem to see where the problem is. At the time of the crashes they look like: GPU Core Clock [MHz] - 1124 GPU Memory Clock [MHz] - 1749.6 GPU Temperature [°C] - 73 Fan Speed (%) [%] - 61 Fan Speed (RPM) [RPM] - 1806 Memory Used [MB] - 1496 GPU Load [%] - 99 Memory Controller Load [%] - 24 Video Engine Load [%] - 0 Power Consumption [% TDP] - 91.3 VDDC [V] - 1.133 12V [V] - 11.89 VDDC Current [A] - 93 VDDC Power [W] - 105.3 VRM Temperature [°C] - 85 The temps seem fine, the fans aren't anywhere near max speed, the total power draw looks fine, am I missing something? Is my card bad? Is there a way for me to find out exactly what is failing? EDIT: At first I was using a single power cable with 2 8-pin PCIE plugs, but the crashes still happen if I use 2 separate cables, albeit maybe it takes a little longer corinthian68 fucked around with this message at 11:25 on May 2, 2014 |
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May 2, 2014 11:21
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I tried it with my old GTX 670 and the crashes went away, so I'm thinking I may have a bum card. On the other hand, could it still be a PSU problem since the 670 draws a lot less power than the 780ti? GPU-Z gives me less data than it did for the 780ti but I'll list the peak values anyway: GPU Core Clock [MHz] - 1123.5 GPU Memory Clock [MHz] - 1502.5 GPU Temperature [°C] - 70.0 Fan Speed (%) [%] - 41 Fan Speed (RPM) [RPM] - 1170 Memory Used [MB] - 1170 GPU Load [%] - 99 Memory Controller Load [%] - 55 Video Engine Load [%] - 0 Power Consumption [% TDP] - 105.6 VDDC [V] - 1.1620 So if the 670 has a TDP of 150W and it's drawing 105.6% of that then the total draw should be 158.4W, while if the 780ti with a TDP of 250W is drawing 91.3% of that then the total draw is 228.25W, which is higher so I still can't tell if it's a card or a PSU problem.
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May 2, 2014 12:08
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I would guess a bad card.
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May 2, 2014 13:18
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What type of crash do you experience? If the system hard resets, it is extremely likely to be a power supply problem. If the crash is within with windows, or even out to BIOS but not actually a hard reset of the components it is likely to be a GPU issue. At least, this is what I have encountered in my experience.
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May 2, 2014 13:24
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BurritoJustice posted:What type of crash do you experience? If the system hard resets, it is extremely likely to be a power supply problem. If the crash is within with windows, or even out to BIOS but not actually a hard reset of the components it is likely to be a GPU issue. At least, this is what I have encountered in my experience. Sudden crash to black screen, with the last sound that played in the game looping constantly until I manually reset the computer
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May 2, 2014 13:30
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What card did you get? Many people seem to be experiencing exactly this type of problem with the Gigabyte GV-N78TOC-3GD, if you've bought that one by chance. https://forums.geforce.com/default/...-bad-batch-/11/
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May 2, 2014 13:31
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Fame Douglas posted:What card did you get? Many people seem to be experiencing problems with the Gigabyte GV-N78TOC-3GD, if you've bought that one by chance. I avoid Gigbyte if I can, I got an ASUS DirectCU II OC
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May 2, 2014 13:32
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Contacting Asus support sounds like your best bet, then.
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May 2, 2014 13:35
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BurritoJustice posted:Contacting Asus support sounds like your best bet, then. Unlikely to be a PSU issue then? Ah well, I think I'll return the card to Amazon first and see if the replacement they send works better. They're usually really good with returns and I think it'll be simpler to deal with them as a first step. Thanks a lot.
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May 2, 2014 13:38
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corinthian68 posted:Unlikely to be a PSU issue then? Ah well, I think I'll return the card to Amazon first and see if the replacement they send works better. They're usually really good with returns and I think it'll be simpler to deal with them as a first step. Thanks a lot. Your issue certainly is a pretty typical sign of a card defect. And with a 750 Watt PSU, you have more than enough power headroom for a 780 Ti. Heck, a second 780 Ti should pose no problem.
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May 2, 2014 13:50
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PSUs are analogue creatures, power in power out, so when they have problems they don't manifest in software bugging out. They turn off, or explode, or send lovely power that damages stuff.
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May 2, 2014 13:57
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corinthian68 posted:Unlikely to be a PSU issue then? Ah well, I think I'll return the card to Amazon first and see if the replacement they send works better. They're usually really good with returns and I think it'll be simpler to deal with them as a first step. Thanks a lot. Yes they actually send you a new one before you have to return yours, which is really nice. And fast. I've almost never returned anything in my whole life up until Amazon. The small chance I actually did get something defective I just sort of ate it (never cost too much though). This wouldn't apply to a 780ti of course but at least they make it so very easy now.
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May 2, 2014 14:31
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BurritoJustice posted:PSUs are analogue creatures, power in power out, so when they have problems they don't manifest in software bugging out. They turn off, or explode, or send lovely power that damages stuff. I can second this. My 1100w psu would literally just turn off when I pushed my 3 290s to their max. If you are still getting sound when the machine crashes the psu is still running. Is the card overclocked at all ? As an aside, return it and get an EVGA card instead 
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May 2, 2014 17:58
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veedubfreak posted:I can second this. My 1100w psu would literally just turn off when I pushed my 3 290s to their max. If you are still getting sound when the machine crashes the psu is still running. Is the card overclocked at all ? Nah, not overclocked at all beyond what Asus did in the factory. As far as brands go I was under the impression that Greenlight meant that, with the exception of Gigabyte, all Nvidia brands were pretty much equally reliable? I mean I'm not averse to switching brands or anything but all the Asus cards I've bought in the past were both reliable and super quiet. How does EVGA fare in terms of reliability and noise? It's easier for me to get a like-for-like replacement but if the replacement card is hosed too then I'm open to switching. And on that note: Amazon customer service is great. I asked for a replacement this morning and they've already arranged to get a new one to me by Sunday. Plus I don't have to send the old one back until Tuesday.
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May 2, 2014 18:05
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BurritoJustice posted:PSUs are analogue creatures, power in power out, so when they have problems they don't manifest in software bugging out. They turn off, or explode, or send lovely power that damages stuff. One of the ports on my psu blew up and sent a cloud a fine dust and then turned off. It sat in my closet for a year before i took it out. As long as i dont use that specific port it runs fine. (it was after i used it again that the port blew up)
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May 2, 2014 18:14
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Everyone seems to enjoy EVGA's support and quality. Actual noise varies card to card though, it's best just to look up a benchmark if you can. Also there is nothing wrong with Gigabyte nvidia cards as far as I know. Sometimes they are some of the best by tiny margins depending on the card, benchmark and cooling wise and I wouldn't ever count them out. It really comes down to price. There are some exceptions especially if you are looking to overclock as much as possible. Some have better memory for it.
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May 2, 2014 18:17
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Basically if you ever do actually need to RMA the card, EVGA is going to be the least likely to gently caress you over. They also aggressively bin their cards, so you are much less likely to have a factory overclocked card have issues.
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May 2, 2014 19:17
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veedubfreak posted:Basically if you ever do actually need to RMA the card, EVGA is going to be the least likely to gently caress you over. They also aggressively bin their cards, so you are much less likely to have a factory overclocked card have issues. EVGA also does cross ship.
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May 2, 2014 20:25
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EVGA's coolers aren't anything to write home about though. And their support isn't worth anything outside of the US, so for us Aussies EVGA stuff is 50~ dollars more expensive for no real benefit.
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May 3, 2014 01:41
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BurritoJustice posted:EVGA's coolers aren't anything to write home about though. And their support isn't worth anything outside of the US, so for us Aussies EVGA stuff is 50~ dollars more expensive for no real benefit. Asus tends to be pricy here too. I ended up going with the MSI 780ti - it seems to be the quietest.
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May 3, 2014 02:40
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Right now the craziest deals in aus are on Galaxy cards. The galaxy 780ti HOF is a ridiculous overbuilt card in the vein of the classy and lightning, but it is only $799. Which is $50 bucks cheaper than an EVGA reference card, and a pile of dollars cheaper than a lightning or classy. Also the white PCB looks awesome. EDIT: the stock cooler is not great though (unlike the MSI you got) but with a PCB that sexy it is pretty much made to be waterblocked.
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May 3, 2014 03:05
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BurritoJustice posted:Right now the craziest deals in aus are on Galaxy cards. The galaxy 780ti HOF is a ridiculous overbuilt card in the vein of the classy and lightning, but it is only $799. Which is $50 bucks cheaper than an EVGA reference card, and a pile of dollars cheaper than a lightning or classy. Also the white PCB looks awesome. I looked at those, but I'm pretty sure it's an obese triple slot cooler, which ruled out putting it in my prodigy.
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May 3, 2014 03:26
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Oh yeah the cooler is a monstrosity. Performs pretty well but it is 2.5 slots and sticks out in every direction. The MSI is a better choice but the HOF is the fun choice
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May 3, 2014 03:33
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On a completely different matter -- is it possible to undervolt Nvidia Kepler GPUs through software or is the only way to fiddle with BIOS? I have a Gainward GTX 660 GS, which boosts up to 1084 MHz at 1.175 V. MSI Afterburner and Nvidia Inspector have voltage control but they seem to have no effect.
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May 3, 2014 10:24
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I've got a GTX 660 Ti, and while it handles everything fine enough, I'm curious as to whether I could be seeing considerably better performance. I received an Xbox One as a gift last year, and while I truly appreciated it (and loved Dead Rising 3), there's jack poo poo to play on it and I can't even think of any exclusives I have interest in for the rest of the year. It seems like I should just sell it and invest the money in a new GPU. Is there much I could get right now without buying a Titan or something? Or should I just wait for the next generation of cards?
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May 3, 2014 11:07
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You could sell it and put the money to many better uses - the Xbox One is likely to depreciate faster than previous game consoles, and due to it not having any technical advantages over the PlayStation 4, the only things it does better are that HDMI passthrough, the occasional exclusive (which will be harder for it to come by than for the PS4, and certainly harder than for the 360, unless it manages a comeback that sales numbers and marketing suggest isn't in the cards) and Xbox Live ecosystem things. Then again, the PS4 isn't all that necessary right now either if you have a gaming PC and a PS3, and picking either the PS4 or Xbox One to the exclusion of the other means letting one of your gaming accounts and its records go fallow (not lost, mind you), so if you're deciding on achievements vs. trophies, it'll ring hollow and possibly disingenuous. And the 660 Ti is new enough and good enough that it doesn't feel right to sell someone on another Kepler card that won't pose an upgrade commensurate with the cost. My advice? Sell the Xbox and sit on the money until GTX 800-series cards come up, or put it to better use than video games. dont be mean to me fucked around with this message at 11:57 on May 3, 2014 |
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May 3, 2014 11:54
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Sir Unimaginative posted:You could sell it and put the money to many better uses - the Xbox One is likely to depreciate faster than previous game consoles This is crucial point. They're selling at discounted prices ALREADY. Even if you do want an Xbox One, you could sell it now, and buy one a year down the line when there might be games you want at a lower price. The PS4 is emerging as a sales leader so far, and of course it has a significantly more powerful GPU and more memory bandwidth, a disparity which will never go away. I wouldn't buy a PS4 either, though, because there still aren't many games. I think the new consoles for most people should be something to hold off on until there's a decent line up that isn't available on PC.
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May 3, 2014 12:03
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I actually have both currently, for their exclusives only (both were gifts, six months apart) - but they're really not delivering on the exclusives yet. I intend to keep the PS4 because the PS3 managed to deliver an AMAZING library after a pretty sparse and disappointing early period, so I'm hoping the PS4 will do the same - and it's a drat nice console. Xbox One...ahh, I knew it was going to be the lamer platform, but also knew there would be good games down the line, much like the 360 had some gems despite mostly being pretty crap. Thanks for the tips - I guess maybe I could sell the Xbox One now seeing as it's only going to drop in worth over time, and hang onto that cash until the new cards drop.
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May 3, 2014 12:47
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Man I can't seem to get rid of the nvidia GPU drivers bug. Tried following the instructions some (many) pages back, DDU and the special reinstall of the latest beta drivers without the nvidia experience and other extraneus bullshit drivers but it keeps coming back. Symptoms: Sorta like a memory leak, computer will start getting chuggy despite not being taxed much. Mouse cursor will be skipping, mumble and the like will start getting "Robot-voice" sound skips/distortions (outgoing and ingoing) and especially audio seems affected the most. Eventually the computer will start really crawling on its knees (even if not taxed at all), but never crashing or freezing up (used to with the worst offending drivers, 320 something). Timeframe: Usually takes an hour or two to start creeping in when gaming. Games that don't tax the GPU much don't seem to trigger it (or if they do, it takes such a long time it's not noticable). Cure: Only a reboot seems to clear it out, but the bug will be back in GPU intensive games eventually. Other culprits: Firefox? but even when it's off the bug will appear. Troubleshooting: Tried seeing if I can spot anything odd in GPU-Z and the activity handler performance window, but nothing. Doesn't even max out the card, memory or CPU but the computer starts running like rear end non-theless. Even when pretty much shutting down every program and having no performance upkeep that any sensors can detect the bug effects will remain. gently caress, should never have left the safe harbor of the 314 drivers, but they didn't help last time I moved back to them  (the symptoms of the bug changed slightly though).Is there any way to force a GPU-driver reboot, without rebooting the computer? Would like to test if that would at least clear out the bug without having to shut down everything else. Pimpmust fucked around with this message at 19:32 on May 3, 2014 |
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May 3, 2014 19:29
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Rosoboronexport posted:On a completely different matter -- is it possible to undervolt Nvidia Kepler GPUs through software or is the only way to fiddle with BIOS? The only way is to mess with the bios. The software voltage control only sets a minimum voltage (Which is why people should leave it alone most of the time, it's just wasting power at lower power states which don't need as much voltage) it'll always use as much voltage as the bios allows if it's not hitting the power target. If you want to use less power/produce less heat you can lower the power target and see if you're still satisfied with the performance. The drivers do a very good job obeying the power target, I've tested my 680 up to 250 watts and all the way down to under 100 watts.
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May 3, 2014 22:26
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Don't let a bios flash scare you off though, it's really not hard at all. And if you're planning on undervolting I can't imagine much risk. The config file is simply text and you just type in the voltage you want. Actually I'm pretty sure there is a list of voltages already in the file but I can't remember.
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May 4, 2014 02:46
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