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Good news, everyone, an M2 might be on its way. http://www.autoblog.com/2014/05/01/bmw-m2-2-series-green-lit/ If 3-series is for poors, then the 2 is literally unfit for human consumption right?
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May 1, 2014 20:39
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IuniusBrutus posted:Attempted to jack my E36 up for the first time to swap out the wheels. Used the factory lift points/factory jack and heard horrible noises. Everything in the unibody is technically structural, but I drove my e36 for over a year with the rockers peeling out and a hole forming by the dead pedal (which explained why the car always smelled funny, moldy rear end carpet). To fix those properly you have to cut out the entire rocker along with the bottom of the door pillars. I wouldn't bother with it on any e36, let alone one you paid 1k for. If you need to pass a safety inspection I'd just fiberglass them. Popete posted:Apparently one of the 3 bolts on the rear trailing arm sheared so he's in the process of removing that and replacing the bolt. This is a pretty common e36 problem, and is usually caused by lovely shops who shear off the bolt head trying to do an alignment and then don't tell you. Also DIY mechanics who are too lazy to fix things. Mounted my RS3s last night, 245s all around on 8.5" DSIIs. They're a pretty wideass tire so I had to mess with camber to get decent clearance on full shock travel. Should be interesting to see what the baseline is before an alignment, I may need to suck it up and roll the rears this summer.  
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May 1, 2014 21:20
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I thought I was crazy for running 235s for a while. Didn't know those would even fit.
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May 1, 2014 22:21
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I had 245/40/17 Bstone RE01R's on 17x8.5 Kosei K1's on a stock 328i and they fit with a tiny bit of rubbing up front on the fender liner.
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May 1, 2014 22:43
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Lightbulb Out posted:It's certainly a pain in the rear end but is basically required for a decent E30 setup. I also could have sworn all 318is' came with LSDs..... I think all 318is came with a small case LSD. Whether it was swapped out at some point in the last 20 years is a different story.
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May 1, 2014 22:50
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Dyscrasia posted:I think all 318is came with a small case LSD. Whether it was swapped out at some point in the last 20 years is a different story. 
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May 2, 2014 00:03
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Need a bit of help, guys. I don't have a ton of info on this car, but I'm hoping someone will be able to shed some light on the situation... I have a good friend who has a 2004 Mini Cooper with a CVT. Apparently, the previous owner did a JCW swap (is this even possible?) Anyways, the transmission started acting up on him, holding revs for way too long before shifting up. He also noticed a small leak forming. So he took it in, and was told his transmission was making GBS threads the bed. Now, we're in Bahrain, so we don't have tons of sources for parts, but he managed to get it to a transmission shop who said they could take care of it. They ordered a (used) trans from a scrap car and installed that. That one was hosed, so they got another, that was hosed as well. Then another, but that one wouldn't go into reverse. Then another, which is the one that's in the car now. It's making AWFUL noises. Also, the car is now idling at 1500-2000rpm and overheating. I have no idea what this shop has done to his car, but it seems like it's hosed. Anyone have any suggestions on what could be causing the (initial) issue? Any chance of a 6 speed swap? I know the CVTs in these have issues, and it seems like putting a used one in with 120k kilometres on the clock (from Kuwait, with no service history) is begging for disaster.
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May 2, 2014 01:45
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angor posted:Need a bit of help, guys. Wait, so it's on its (counts thread again) FIFTH transmission? And you are now contemplating buying a sixth? The "JCW" swap could mean as little as "oh he put the JCW badges on the car" to "oh it has a fully built motor with the supercharger" (iirc the 04s were s/c, not turbo) so you'd have to get specs on the actual motor. I would say yes you should definitely pursue the 6-speed option if you can source one that isn't trash.
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May 2, 2014 03:16
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To clear up any confusion, he hasn't been buying these transmissions. The shop get's a 2 week guarantee on the used parts it gets, so he's just been sending them back. I really do need to get better info on the engine. I've been told that it has a JCW swap. Now, I didn't hear anything when I was riding in it (odd for a JCW, those things whine like mad), but he drives slower than my grandmother, so maybe that's why. Again, I won't know until I can look under the hood (and show you guys pictures, cause I have no idea what I'd be looking for.) The guy at the garage has been looking for a 6 speed, but nothing has turned up yet. People in this part of the world seem to love autos, and unfortunately, most of them seem to get treated like poo poo. But hey, oil money. EDIT: I have been told that it was an engine swap from an 03 JCW car. The shop managed to find a 6 speed from an '07. Will that work? angor fucked around with this message at 17:42 on May 2, 2014 |
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May 2, 2014 10:15
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Have you crawled underneath it and looked for the tag or painted S on the diff? I really do think most 318iS's got them regardless of that chart.
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May 2, 2014 17:50
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Does this shop know that they'll also need the clutch assembly, shifter parts and more than likely will have to do wiring AND programming? If coopers are like any BMW from that era a manual swap is difficult and requires pretty good knowledge of the car and BMW programming tools.
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May 2, 2014 17:53
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Yay I got the M3 back today, it feels awesome. I can't believe how cheap it was for all the work done, at this point the whole suspension has pretty much been overhauled. I still need to make some ride height adjustments and then get a final alignment but at least I won't fear for my life every time it sprinkles. My mechanic did some basic alignment and adjusted the rear to full toe out, previously it was pretty much toed in as far as possible. He mentioned I would probably want to toe it out further when I get an alignment but since the rear is so much lower now it would require camber adjustment to get it further out. I may adjust the rear height a little higher and the front definitely needs to be a bit lower. All in all though I'm really happy with how the car is shaping up since I got it last summer. I still need to put the new water pump in and it should be ready for auto-x pretty soon.
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May 2, 2014 18:20
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You complained of high speed stability issues and he put the rear to full toe out? That doesn't make sense to me.
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May 2, 2014 18:45
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Crustashio posted:You complained of high speed stability issues and he put the rear to full toe out? That doesn't make sense to me. Yeah I may have that backwards actually, it was pretty early this morning so I maybe have been understanding wrong. Previously it was toed pretty much completely one way and it caused really excessive tire wear. He set it to as far as he could one way and I think that was close to neutral. But because the car is lowered and the camber probably not adjusted correctly he could only do so much. I've been looking up recommended camber/toe settings for when I take it in to get aligned.
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May 2, 2014 18:50
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http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?995556-The-Definitive-Alignment-Guide-for-your-E36-M3 is a great reference. If you're mainly street driving, the suggested street alignment is quite good. I have a bit of a mix right now. This is what I just had mine aligned to: Front Camber: -2.7 Front Toe: 0 Rear Camber: -2.0 Rear toe: 3mm inward (1.5mm per side) Corner weights in the rear are within 5lbs, front is about 20lbs off when I'm in it. I have the front plates marked for -2.7 and -3.5. When I'm at autoX/track days I go to -3.5, put it back to -2.7 at the end of the day. Vorshlag plates can go further negative, but you have to sacrifice caster. Depending on wear on my RS3s, I may go up to -3 front -2.5 rear, same toe settings. I got lazy last year and didn't realign the car after adjusting front ride height and destroyed my front tires. Crustashio fucked around with this message at 21:26 on May 2, 2014 |
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May 2, 2014 21:23
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BraveUlysses posted:Have you crawled underneath it and looked for the tag or painted S on the diff? I really do think most 318iS's got them regardless of that chart. Yea it does look like it was an option. Seems like most had the option though. Everyone I've seen has one, but its an easy upgrade and they are 20 year old cars.
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May 2, 2014 23:07
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Hey guys. I really want to sell my zhp and buy an e46 m3 (coupe, 6sp). What can kind of differences can I expect when working on the s54 vs the m54 (besides costs)? I've done belts, pulleys, vcg, beisan vanos rebuild, cooling system refresh, plugs etc on my zhp so that's my reference point. From what I can tell the s54 is solid so I'm mostly just trying to be sure I won't be surprised by something. The vanos rebuild procedure looks different than the m54 one, has anyone done both and can compare? Anything else to be aware of going to a e46 m3? Also it looks like I'm going to have to spend about $16-20k CAD for a decent example with low enough mileage and service records, does that sound right? I'm in Ontario Canada.
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May 2, 2014 23:34
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BraveUlysses posted:Have you crawled underneath it and looked for the tag or painted S on the diff? I really do think most 318iS's got them regardless of that chart. No, I should probably do that though. Tonight.
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May 2, 2014 23:56
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beater 7 series update: no problems. fully reclined, arm hanging out the rear window.
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May 3, 2014 03:10
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I take it this has the N62 V8... just make sure to keep an eye on the oil, they are notorious for burning a quart ever 3-4k miles.
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May 3, 2014 03:30
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Nait Sirhc posted:beater 7 series update: no problems. fully reclined, arm hanging out the rear window. Laiiiidddddd back..... Love your updates. Waiting for the "poo poo blew up" post so the thread spirals into a poo poo show about BMW maintenance. Jk, hope that never happens and you straight mack on bad bitches for life.
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May 3, 2014 03:54
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Just got my middle class 550 back from opticoat, suntek ppf, and tint. The backseat in this thing is tiny compared to the limo but drat is it a beast. Five years from now me: remember how awesome it was now, and don't be sad that everything is breaking and the tint is peeling off and the paint protection did jack to keep the car nice because you didn't wash it with a newly skinned sheep carcass every third day. At least I found out that the shop next to the place that coated my car is an indy BMW mechanic who is apparently very good. Just in time for the Mrs to need a non dealer option! Hopefully they can keep an N54 from blowing up at fifty thousand miles.
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May 3, 2014 04:06
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I'm thinking about replacing the CCV system in my M54 E46 soon. It looks like a pain but a doable pain, and when I did my DISA rebuild a little while back I found my intake manifold is coated in oil grime indicative of a failing/failed CCV, as well as what I would classify as excessive disappearing oil syndrome. Doing some research I'm getting mixed signals on whether the cold weather version of the CCV is actually any different than the regular one other than the insulation. Seems like most of the complete repair kits from ECS or Bavauto or similar include the cold weather version. The ECS kit with OEM parts is $178 I might just go with that. Also how necessary is it to replace the oil dipstick tube with the supposedly improved cold weather version. ECS says highly recommended, but at almost $150 to replace the damned dipstick tube it seems excessive even if it is technically part of the oil seperation process. Would cleaning out the OEM dipstick tube before putting it back in be sufficient, or is the design badly flawed? FWIW I don't live in an especially cold climate. Pacific Northwest only gets below freezing a few days out of the year and even then only just. Edit: Bonus question: how worth it in terms of effort/reward would it be to disassemble the intake manifold and clean it assuming it has a moderate oily-grimey sheen? It looks like a considerable hassle to do, but again, doable. Guinness fucked around with this message at 04:53 on May 3, 2014 |
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May 3, 2014 04:44
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Last year I was getting some heavy shuddering from the front wheels of my e46 330Ci when under heavy braking coming off the straights on the track. There was no shudder when braking on the freeway under normal conditions. Reading online seemed to indicate that the FCABs could do this but only when worn. I had replaced the front control arm bushings with Meyle HD at the beginning of the season so I was unsure if that was the problem. After looking at the rotors and not seeing any significant thickness variation, I decided to replace the FCABs with the UUC poly ones at the start of this season. Replacing the almost new bushings was very easy and a two jaw puller was more than enough to pop them off. I guess after only one year they were not welded themselves to the control arms. The Meyle bushings still looked brand new and showed no signs of degradation. I was somewhat concerned that I had wasted my money at that point. The rest of the suspension was left unchanged. At last weekend's track session there was no shuddering from the front end under any amount of braking and bump steer seemed to be improved. This could be psychosomatic, but I felt the front end was much tighter even though the NVH did not seem to significantly change from my already modified suspension. If you track your e46, I would recommend poly front control arm bushings as a worthwhile improvement.
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May 3, 2014 05:04
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BrokenKnucklez posted:I take it this has the N62 V8... just make sure to keep an eye on the oil, they are notorious for burning a quart ever 3-4k miles. My m62 ninja tip is to regularly check and/or blue loctite the power steering pump mounting bolts. i lost 2/3 of mine on the worst trip to coldstone
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May 3, 2014 06:08
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Guinness posted:I'm thinking about replacing the CCV system in my M54 E46 soon. It looks like a pain but a doable pain, and when I did my DISA rebuild a little while back I found my intake manifold is coated in oil grime indicative of a failing/failed CCV, as well as what I would classify as excessive disappearing oil syndrome. Doing some research I'm getting mixed signals on whether the cold weather version of the CCV is actually any different than the regular one other than the insulation. Seems like most of the complete repair kits from ECS or Bavauto or similar include the cold weather version. The ECS kit with OEM parts is $178 I might just go with that. The cold weather CCV is exactly the same except for the slightly different dipstick tube and insulated lines. Since you don't live anywhere super-cold (as in, below zero F at any point), you can probably skip the cold weather CCV, but it won't cause any harm if you install it. Personally, I would say install the cold weather setup and be done with it since it isn't that much more expensive. You should also replace your valve cover gasket and intake manifold gasket at the same time; the intake manifold gasket because CCV replacement is much more difficult with the intake manifold still in place, and the VCG because it's probably old and hard by now anyways. Also, check your oil filter housing gasket; if it shows signs of even a slight leak, it's a "while you're in there" job while you're doing your CCV. Just don't make the mistake that I did and leave it until it totally fails (which cost me a LOT of money). It was effective in reducing my oil consumption; instead of one quart every 4000 miles, my oil consumption is effectively zero now...I have the rarest of birds; an M54 that doesn't naturally burn oil 
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May 3, 2014 09:04
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gigButt posted:Laiiiidddddd back..... Dayam... I didn't know he got the 7 with the GYB package: https://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/4436011746.html
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May 3, 2014 09:58
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EVERYWHERE 
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meatpimp posted:Dayam... I didn't know he got the 7 with the GYB package: The price he is selling this car for makes me want to go out and flip mine immediately. Holy crap.
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May 3, 2014 17:41
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Nait Sirhc posted:The price he is selling this car for makes me want to go out and flip mine immediately. Holy crap. East Columbus sounds like the roughest mid-Ohio town there is... E82 owners: i have a 2009 135i and the rear feels like it is on ice anytime i get into the gas. The tires are not breaking free. It seems like the diff is transferring power left or right making the car get squirmy. Is this rwd torque steer? What are some possible causes and solutions? Simple as bushings, more like m3 parts and cool overs, or all out lsd swap?
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May 3, 2014 17:52
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MrChips posted:The cold weather CCV is exactly the same except for the slightly different dipstick tube and insulated lines. Since you don't live anywhere super-cold (as in, below zero F at any point), you can probably skip the cold weather CCV, but it won't cause any harm if you install it. Personally, I would say install the cold weather setup and be done with it since it isn't that much more expensive. You should also replace your valve cover gasket and intake manifold gasket at the same time; the intake manifold gasket because CCV replacement is much more difficult with the intake manifold still in place, and the VCG because it's probably old and hard by now anyways. Also, check your oil filter housing gasket; if it shows signs of even a slight leak, it's a "while you're in there" job while you're doing your CCV. This. Skip the new dipstick design, but get the cold weather CCV. I did this a few months ago without taking the intake manifold off and it was a HUGE pain in the rear end, so I'd recommend you go ahead and do that too. He's spot on with the oil filter housing gasket too, check the line there as well as mine had a nice slow leak. I also would replace the vacuum line to the SAP while you have the intake off and the connection is easy to get to.
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May 3, 2014 18:01
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gigButt posted:East Columbus sounds like the roughest mid-Ohio town there is... The best solution is to get an LSD and M3 rear subframe bushings. If you don't want to spend $3k on getting everything at once I would recommend the M3 rear subframe bushings first then the LSD. You can get a wavetrac unit for $2k + core charge. I installed my LSD diff in about 3 hours. The only special tool I needed was for the driveshaft. For the subframe bushings you have to drop the rear subframe a few inches to press them out. There is a tool you can rent (search for e90 subframe bushing tool) to press the old ones out and the new ones in. If you are doing all that, you might as well get the M3 front control arms. My 135 has almost all M3 suspension now and it is amazing with 400whp.
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May 3, 2014 18:57
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Does anyone know if you can use one of the old DICE iPod/aux adapters for a e46 with an e65 745i? It's not the Mediabridge, it's one of the original old-school units with the iPod plug and 3.5" aux in.
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May 3, 2014 21:41
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I bought a cheapo head unit for my E39 from eBay and it was pretty good! Good UI, good map program, good response speed, good touch response, etc. Unfortunately, my loaded ipod made it puke. So, back it goes to China. Then I bought an Eonon head unit, also direct from China. Its navigation program wasn't as good as the iGo Primo in the eBay unit, but I'm trying to find a replacement navigation program. Other than that, the Eonon is better and more developed than the generic eBay unit. The only down side is that the Eonon screen is a little less firmly fixed, it flexes a little if you press on the corners. With that, both head units made the stock/base speakers sound MUCH better. Not full-on custom, but absolutely as good as many upgraded stock systems. Good enough that I'll keep them in place. What it did, though, is make me want for bass, so I'm digging out my isobaric subwoofer and big amp from the basement and setting it up in the trunk -- plan is to take a large-gauge tap off the distribution block and use an unused fuse space for switched power. I know it's simple, but am I missing anything in that plan? The car seems pretty straightforward, but I want to make sure I don't do something that makes the electrical system puke... but with the battery and distribution block in the trunk, it seems like it'd be super-easy.
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May 3, 2014 22:00
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E39 540i water pump saga: Replaced the pump Thursday night, still had a leak at the bottom of the pump it seemed. Got a low coolant ding about 18 miles into the first test (2mi from home). Temps stayed 94-101C as usual. wasn't sure if it was a gasket or what, so I pulled it today. Turns out I tore up both the O-rings for the water pipes that run to the back of the motor. I saved the old O-rings and they still looked good, and reused those. Pipes are both seated properly now (you can stick your finger in the inlet/outlet and feel around the pipes to make sure they didn't cut the O-ring and drag it). 2 tips: -lube the ends of the water hardlines with a drop of coolant before assembly -the four bolts for the thermostat are the same thread as the four short bolts on the water pump and a few mm longer. Use them as a setup jig to keep the gasket lined up while you seat the top water hardlines and then replace them one at a time with the real water pump bolts (use anti-seize!) and torque down. In retrospect I think my leak my have actually been from the torn O-rings, but I'm taking no chances, thin thin layer of RTV on the gasket this time, applied properly.
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May 3, 2014 23:25
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I need to know if I'm crazy for wanting this. It will be a DE and occasional weekend spin car. Here's a copy/paste from the ad. The interior mostly stripped, which I would probably do anyway. It's listed for $8k. 1995 E36 M3 212,000 miles on the body S52 Motor swap done in July of 2013 OBD1->OBDII 90K miles on the S52 Schrick racing cams Baffled Oil pan K&N Intake 24lb injectors 255 walboro fuel pump Euro 540 MAF conversion AA Track pipe exhaust AA headers 3.38 Diff Ground Control Camber caster plates UUC control arms Koni coil overs w/ Eibach springs Re-inforced subframe Brembo cross drilled rotors Hawk track pads with 4 days on them Toyo Proxes RA1 255/45/17 with 2 days on them Spare set of BF Goodwrich slicks OEM LTW rear wing Sparco EVO 2 Plus racing seats Schroth 6 point harness Momo racing steering wheel Harness bar (No full cage)
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May 4, 2014 19:27
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SpaceRangerJoe posted:Track car Not a really bad car otherwise, but I wouldn't pay 8 for it. In other news, I did a  Buddy bought them for 250 with decent rubber for his e36m3 but didn't have rolled rear fenders or front spacers. I told him I'd break them in for him since he's going to reimburse me for the spacers he's going to need on the front later anyway. The rears have 255s on them so I had to take my racelands in the back all the way up and luckily I had a 15mm spring pad lying around...they...mostly don't scrub. I did this because my LM reps have a giant crack in the passenger rear I didn't know about till we pulled them to test this fitment.  The e36 in question, with my wagon:  Now all it needs is a s54! 
SuperDucky fucked around with this message at 19:50 on May 4, 2014 |
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May 4, 2014 19:45
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Yeah I really don't get the OBDI->OBDII swap unless something went wrong with the original engine. 8k$ for a swapped car just seems really high. Also the M3 should already have the subframe re-enforcements.
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May 4, 2014 20:41
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SuperDucky posted:Not a really bad car otherwise The original motor blew up right after the guy bought it. No idea why they didn't put another s50 in. Emissions could be a thing, but I can figure something out. Here's what I have on the motor swap.
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May 4, 2014 20:42
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Popete posted:Yeah I really don't get the OBDI->OBDII swap unless something went wrong with the original engine. 8k$ for a swapped car just seems really high. Also the M3 should already have the subframe re-enforcements. MY95 m3's didn't come with the reinforcement. I can see an s52 swap being done because they are much easier to find and you get extra power.
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May 4, 2014 21:40
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BraveUlysses posted:MY95 m3's didn't come with the reinforcement. Ahhh ok, it looks like the S52 was converted to OBDI as well which is a nice bonus. Could do the M50 manifold swap pretty easily. Or would that be apart of converting the S52 to OBDI?
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May 4, 2014 22:03
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