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1997 Honda Accord Wagon got all new front brakes. Hate that job, will never understand why Honda built em the way they did. Also, they gave me the wrong pads despite stating emphatically that it was a wagon, not a sedan. The wagons got bigger brakes, same calipers and pads as the Type-R actually. It also got all new fluids, a headlight polishing/dehazing, and a glob of JB weld on a leaking exhaust weld (we'll have to see how well that holds). 1970 250c was de-mothballed. Pulled from storage, battery charged, some new fuel line, new fuel filter, carbs diagnosed (gonna need new diaphragms for the secondaries), and an oil and filter change. All that's left to do now is change the coolant on the ITR and 250c.
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# ? May 4, 2014 00:15 |
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# ? May 13, 2024 10:57 |
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Cobalt got a wash, wax and underbody clean. Not going to matter since it's going to be yellow again tomorrow. S10 got rid of the driveshaft, transmission crossmember, disconnected the fuel lines from the transmission and engine, removed both engine mounts, and then I tried to push the truck back (yanking engine and transmission together). In my expected moment of glory I realized I had forgotten to disconnect the exhaust from the engine. Oh well, sawzall in the morning will take care of that poo poo and I'll have the engine compartment empty and ready to be cleaned and painted. Since I won't be able to give away the S10 2.2 to a blind man for free I'm going to end up making a table out of it.
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# ? May 4, 2014 01:14 |
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Fushin posted:Cobalt got a wash, wax and underbody clean. Not going to matter since it's going to be yellow again tomorrow. Are you within driving distance of eastern PA? Because I need a 2.2 for my 2000 S10 with rod knock.
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# ? May 4, 2014 01:18 |
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Motronic posted:Are you within driving distance of eastern PA? Because I need a 2.2 for my 2000 S10 with rod knock. This 2.2 needs some work. It ran last October before I started pulling it, but the head looks vile. Gunked up and has a slight noise at the bottom end. I'm a few hours from Philly, done some ghost hunting at Fort Mifflin before (located in Southern Maryland). If you REALLY want it honestly you can have it and the 4L60e. I make no guarantees that the engine will be any good at this point without being rebuilt. You may have better options out there.
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# ? May 4, 2014 01:39 |
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Bought it! 20013 Mazda2 that a dealer in the next city had sitting around. Probably because it has a manual. Just under 15k with tax which is loving cheap for Canada. Also holy poo poo is it bright red. First impressions are good handling and shifter feel. God I missed using a clutch. Also averaging 6.4l/100km or 37 USmpg so far
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# ? May 4, 2014 01:52 |
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kastein posted:Put oil compatible UV dye in only one of the possibly-leaky gearboxes. Wait a few days. Break out the UV lamp. I had to pull the transfer to get to where the leak was coming from anyway, and it only cost me $45 for the transfer case seal kit and $29 for the gearbox seal kit, so I grabbed both. I'd already had the front output seal on the transfer start to leak about 25K kms ago, so figured it was easy enough to do the rear and other random ones while i was at it.
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# ? May 4, 2014 02:00 |
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Might as well, at that point. Speaking of which, I had a bit of a laugh today when I tore apart my parts AX15 for a couple bits I needed. Whoever had it in a vehicle last used about 3 tubes of RTV sealing the tail housing flange to the transfer case. Except it doesn't loving matter because there's a drain hole in the flange. All they had to do was replace a 3 dollar seal on the output shaft... but nope, they shadetreed the gently caress out of it with a massive quantity of RTV without fixing the problem.
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# ? May 4, 2014 03:39 |
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Fushin posted:This 2.2 needs some work. It ran last October before I started pulling it, but the head looks vile. Gunked up and has a slight noise at the bottom end. I'm a few hours from Philly, done some ghost hunting at Fort Mifflin before (located in Southern Maryland). If you REALLY want it honestly you can have it and the 4L60e. I make no guarantees that the engine will be any good at this point without being rebuilt. You may have better options out there. What year is it? I've got no use for the engine, but I could use a 4L60e for my '93 Jimmy.
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# ? May 4, 2014 03:48 |
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trouser chili posted:Thank you. I'm gonna use this for the wires, but $15 a spark plug seems ridiculous. The stock plugs are NGK PFR6G-11. And yeah, they're expensive - Amazon has them for $11/each (eligible for Prime shipping). Rockauto stocks them for $9.65. AutoZone also carries them in some stores, though the ones around me seem to want $14/ea. Plus tax. The OE wires are either NGK or Denso. The NGK version would be part # HE64, which are a little under $50 on Amazon (also eligible for Prime); $44 on RockAuto. The NGK replacements are bright blue, while the originals were either blue or black.
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# ? May 4, 2014 09:25 |
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thelightguy posted:What year is it? I've got no use for the engine, but I could use a 4L60e for my '93 Jimmy. 98, about 80,000 miles on the transmission. Never had problems with it, I think the 4L60e is bulletproof...
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# ? May 4, 2014 13:09 |
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Timmy Cruise posted:Bought it! One of us, one of us, one of us.
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# ? May 4, 2014 15:54 |
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Fushin posted:98, about 80,000 miles on the transmission. Never had problems with it, I think the 4L60e is bulletproof... I know someone who has killed three. One stock, one he built, and one he had a pro do. He is parting the vehicle out and buying something unmodified (It was one of the pioneering 5.3 swapped XJs)
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# ? May 4, 2014 16:11 |
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kastein posted:I know someone who has killed three. One stock, one he built, and one he had a pro do. He deserves a medal made from a melted down 60e. Ow, my back
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# ? May 4, 2014 16:52 |
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New-to-me '98 TJ: replaced the "fuel supply module", which consists of the fuel pump, fuel level sender, rollover check valve, FPR, and fuel filter. Installed a receiver hitch and trailer wiring adapter. Noticed that the PO recently installed a new steering stabilizer on the badly misaligned front end, which somehow failed to cure the Death Wobble.
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# ? May 4, 2014 17:52 |
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Fixed the right front speaker wiring through the door hinge. For the first time since buying this piece of poo poo in 2010, I have 4 working speakers. The front right quit, then both rears, then the front left. I fixed the front left, swore I wouldn't touch the front right for 6 months because it sucked so bad, fixed the rears when the rest of that connector finished committing suicide by fire (which took out all right taillight functions, and got me pulled over) and never had the motivation to gently caress with the front right until now. During. Good job putting loving splices in the middle of a door harness right where it bends, chrysler. Wrapped back up.
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# ? May 4, 2014 21:07 |
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It is done! The first real modification to my "new" Koup. Carbon fiber K badges painted with DupliColor Metalcast Red.
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# ? May 4, 2014 23:00 |
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StormDrain posted:Oh hell no. That would mean both axles had a seal break within two months. I'd better go smell it. It was gear oil after all. I took the drum off and didn't see any apparent leaks from the wheel cylinder but did see a blob of oil hanging out at the base of the backing plate with a particular smell. Replaced a seal at the end of the axle (Dana 60 semi-floating) and greased the bearing which was dry. Replaced the wheel cylinder since I had a new one, while trying to remove the brake line I managed to destroy it. The flare was bonded to the cylinder, and I foolishly used a vice grip to hold it in place trying to break the grip of rust and turn the nut, but it folded over and broke off nearly immediately. I bought a new 20" line at NAPA that was exactly the right length. 1/8 or more shorter and it wouldn't have worked. Called my wife in to help bleed it and it went well, pushed air out in like two strokes and then a few little bubbles and we were done in record time. Then I went to add some gear oil to the differential, since it had to be low, but instead it was high and spewed out. Last time I filled it was on jack stands leaning to the front, and it came rushing out on level ground. At least now I have some on hand I guess. I think I'll do the passenger side next weekend. The cylinder removed had some nice ridges of rust inside and were overall terrible. I might even put a new hard line on it as well.
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# ? May 5, 2014 04:44 |
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Last week I plasti-dipped my summer wheels with a fresh coat of white and did the badges as well. I'd bought a wheel kit off the DYC site for like $33 and it had 4 cans, was browsing Amazon and they had 6-can boxes for $28 so I bought that as well so I ended up with 10 cans and now I'm just dipping all sorts of poo poo. I watched a few of the DYC youtube videos and got interested int he gloss coating. But at $10 a can I balked and jumping on that but I searched it on Amazon and they had 6-packs listed for $9. It was out of stock and I figured they'd never fill the order but I ordered two anyways. Got this in the mail So now I have a shitload of glossy. I'm going to glosscoat everything I loving own.
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# ? May 5, 2014 05:24 |
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Washed, waxed, and debaged the ZHP in preparation for MFest 2014 in Las Vegas next weekend. Should be a fun caravan through the Mojave. Chinatown fucked around with this message at 06:35 on May 5, 2014 |
# ? May 5, 2014 06:32 |
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Sold my old Accord I'd bought as a project some years back before discovering I was in slightly too deep. It was great mechanically and I loved generally staring at it, but had incredible rot issues I wasn't going to be capable of sorting any time soon - about a foot missing off both back sills, massive holes in the floor, etc. It hid it fairly well, but years of awful patch-welding caught up with it. You had to be careful around the back because one of the floor panels there had completely broken off the seam somehow so they just flapped freely, if you sit in the back and put your feet down you'd be touching the road. New guy is a pro welder, which gives some hope it'll see the road again. I can't stand seeing cars go to waste otherwise I'd have scrapped it years ago, feel like I've given it another roll of the dice at least.
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# ? May 5, 2014 12:05 |
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Last week was unusually good for me working on cars. Finally swapped out the cabin air filter, modified the fan shroud (read: used a dremel) to put a fan back on the Miata, and pulled the motor out of Fatcow's Miata (2.5 hours from the car on the ground to motor out). Also went for a few bike rides. Feels good, man.
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# ? May 5, 2014 16:50 |
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Went to Harbor Freight. Somehow fit a 12" Miter Saw inside the shoebox. Got weird looks on the highway. Don't care, saved $160.
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# ? May 6, 2014 05:08 |
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StormDrain posted:I think I'll do the passenger side next weekend. The cylinder removed had some nice ridges of rust inside and were overall terrible. I might even put a new hard line on it as well. Did the passenger side tonight! Opted to leave the wheel cylinder in place and hard line as I had nobody around to bleed it with me. Then - I put some cable clamps along the positive cable so it was routed properly, cleaned a bulkhead connector to see if I could get more accurate readings on my gauges (two out of three improved - I think..). Threw a bunch of garbage out of the cab, filled it with gasoline and retired. The gauge I wanted to improve was the fuel gauge, and it was on a different connector. It was nice to see temp and oil pressure reading correctly at halfway though, previously 1/4 would have been operating temp and pressure.
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# ? May 6, 2014 05:12 |
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Spent most of the day today helping neighbor lady install a junkyard steering knuckle on her 2006 Ford Focus. Jesus Christ what a lovely, miserable job this is. She rode it with a bad wheel bearing for so long, the ball bearings just fell out when I started pulling the old hub. Got the knuckle off only to find part of the outer race welded into the knuckle and the rest chewed all to hell and not fit for installing a new bearing so I took her to the pull-a-part. It takes an awful lot of violence to pop the ball joint loose. drat thing. Used a printout of this as a guide. http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=220746
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# ? May 6, 2014 06:07 |
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I threw on my coil covers for the first time since I Plasti-Dipped them over the Winter. I've still got some touch up stuff to do, but I really like how they've turned out: Before: During: Now: Root Bear fucked around with this message at 06:16 on May 6, 2014 |
# ? May 6, 2014 06:09 |
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Rolled it out of the shop and drove it for the first time since the middle of January. Went in with tired suspension and 4 wheel drum brakes, came out refreshed. Washed the shop dust off.
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# ? May 6, 2014 12:26 |
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I'm jealous. I think this car collects dirt & dust faster than anything else I've ever owned. I end up washing it almost every day. I got tired of constantly scrubbing the silver wheels, so I dipped 'em earlier. I just washed it yesterday morning and it's already looking bad Now on to figuring out which path I wanna take to lower it.
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# ? May 6, 2014 19:23 |
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Is that salt on the door? Where do you live that salt is still on the roads? And yeah, welcome to the "cant keep a black car clean" club.
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# ? May 6, 2014 20:07 |
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I dunno, didn't think about that. I live near the Corvette manufacturing plant in Kentucky. The salt trucks here were out almost 24/7 for a few months, so it wouldn't surprise me if there's still salt dust & residue out. All I know is it's some kind of whitish-grey dust that covers the car within a few hours of city road/interstate driving
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# ? May 6, 2014 21:43 |
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Cage posted:Is that salt on the door? Where do you live that salt is still on the roads? They just put a fresh skim of salt down this very morning on my major commute.
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# ? May 6, 2014 21:49 |
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Dumped all the coolant from my Blazer on the highway at 60MPH. The PO apparently thought that simply putting a band clamp on the lower radiator hose was enough to keep it in place. Tightening it beyond finger tight? Wasted effort better spent wiring up their lovely wal-mart sub in the cargo area. Luckily I was less than a mile from a shopping center when it happened, so I put the hose back on, poured in the gallon of pre-mix I always carry, and drove it over to where I could get enough coolant and water to fill it up, stopping the engine at every stoplight.
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# ? May 7, 2014 02:36 |
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Autotuned it on the way to work. TunerStudio is the best money I have ever spent on a car. Most of the time that screen displays a gauge cluster (fuel trim, pulse width, AFR/boost history, etc.) but it's so nice to be able to tweak stuff at a stop light.
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# ? May 7, 2014 16:49 |
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Picked up my transmission for the subie Gotta love a hatchback.
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# ? May 7, 2014 17:29 |
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Bajaha posted:Picked up my transmission for the subie Niiice So that's the colour grass is supposed to look like, huh.
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# ? May 7, 2014 17:46 |
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Picked up some new rims. They are 18-inchers. Coming up are some drilled and slotted 312mm brake disks in the front, and BSR stainless steel exhaust. Aleks_r fucked around with this message at 18:47 on May 7, 2014 |
# ? May 7, 2014 17:51 |
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You kinda drive a poop wagon.
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# ? May 7, 2014 18:55 |
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:So that's the colour grass is supposed to look like, huh. I get to enjoy a couple days of 13-18°c weather too, awe yeah. (Don't remind me that I have to eventually drive back to the frozen wasteland we call home.)
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# ? May 7, 2014 19:59 |
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Cage posted:You kinda drive a poop wagon. I like to think of it more as ski queen-like(brown cheese): The color is called matte Ipanema braun, and it's originally an Audi-color AFAIK. I happen to like it - and i've yet to see another B5 Passat with that color.
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# ? May 7, 2014 20:34 |
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That color owns bones.
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# ? May 7, 2014 21:04 |
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# ? May 13, 2024 10:57 |
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# ? May 7, 2014 22:21 |