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QuarkMartial posted:Sweet. As far as charging goes, I'd always heard that, too... but then I've also heard that even on a trickle charge it'll slowly kill off the batteries. I dunno, maybe batteries in general are all a losing game? I left a battery on the charger once and it was ruined. In my mind it's easy enough to take it off and store it in the house that I do it to save the eventual the cost of replacing the batteries.
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May 3, 2014 17:33
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I want the 13 drawer hf tool chest but I want it to be shorter so it will fit under my workbench in my garage. Does anyone have any experience with swapping the casters for smaller ones? How much harder will it be to roll assuming I never get close to the ton it's rated at?
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May 3, 2014 18:08
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melon cat posted:I was on the fence about Ryobi, but after hearing a story like this from a poster as helpful as yourself it's definitely made any future buying decisions a lot easier. Krakkles posted:Yeah, I've had no desire to buy Ryobi after hearing what he's said. It makes a definite difference!
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May 3, 2014 21:27
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I've heard that the battery chargers that tell you when they're done charging can keep batteries connected indefinitely because they shut themselves off when they're done. The ones that just have an idiot light to tell you there is a battery connected will fry your battery though (which will then destroy the charger. Ask me how I know that.)
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May 3, 2014 21:35
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InitialDave posted:Do you have a hammer-actuated impact driver, a decent breaker bar, some Plusgas, Loctite "lipsticks" of locking compound and a good inspection lamp? Yes, yes, if you recommend it I'll get it, blue so I'll get some red, and yes. Thanks.
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May 3, 2014 21:50
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Plusgas is decent stuff, and the added bonus is you can still get it in "dripper" tins with a nozzle, which gets you a hell of a lot more actual fluid than the same money spent on an aerosol. Loctite also do anti-seize and copper grease in those lipsticks. Oh, and Aldi are currently selling rubberised-palm "mechanics" gloves for ｣3 for two pairs. They're not as good as the Gorilla Grip brand ones I normally use (about ｣3.50 a pair, so still cheap), but they're not at all bad for the money.
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May 3, 2014 22:00
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re: Electric impact gun chat: Go big or go home. I've been drooling over this thing for a long time. 780 ft-lbs in a 1/2" electric? Hell yes. I just can't justify it when I already own this baby and I do all my work in a shop, where there's air all the time anyway. Also, impression of the Snap On air hammer I bought a month ago: holy poo poo this thing is my new favorite tool. I used it to change out the teeth on an asphalt planer, a job that can take 3-4 hours with a hammer and punch. With the air hammer I did it in about an hour and a half (an that includes probably 20 minutes of just figuring out the best angle to set up and hammer from). It annoys the poo poo out of my coworkers though, because it is loving loud.
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May 4, 2014 08:22
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That's the problem with air hammers. I have a small amount of concrete I need to break up and I've been waiting for the right day during the week to do it when everyone's at work.
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May 4, 2014 15:28
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Ziploc posted:This is a really fun tool review. Where is there a scrap yard where the cars are neatly stacked on blocks!?
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May 4, 2014 15:58
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There are three near me... and they are open sundays. It is like automotive nerd heaven.
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May 4, 2014 16:12
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That's all of them around here. All the you-pull yards anyways.
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May 4, 2014 17:33
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Same here. Mine uses welded steelies like that one. It's pretty drat nice.
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May 4, 2014 22:19
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InitialDave posted:Do everyone a favour and write to Ryobi telling them this. Eh, I'll put in a positive word for Ryobi. Mostly because they're a good value and have a pretty big lineup including yard tools. I've got their weed-wacker, trimmer, fan, inflator and jig saw. The jig saw was $25 and the others are tools that Milwaukee doesn't make. I haven't run any of them hard but I like them all and I've had no problems with my two batteries. Right now you can get two tools and two batteries at Home Depot for $99 which is hard to argue with. Though as a random aside, I saw a display for Makita's entire 18V lineup recently and was impressed. I didn't know they crossed into yard tools. And I think their dual 18V tools are a fantastic idea.
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May 5, 2014 00:10
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I've said it before in this very thread, but just in case anyone hasn't considered this, please don't store/charge your tool batteries in your garage, as the heat and or cold can lessen their life. Keep them inside an air conditioned space and they will last longer.
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May 5, 2014 01:34
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asdf32 posted:Eh, I'll put in a positive word for Ryobi. Mostly because they're a good value and have a pretty big lineup including yard tools. I've got their weed-wacker, trimmer, fan, inflator and jig saw. The jig saw was $25 and the others are tools that Milwaukee doesn't make. I haven't run any of them hard but I like them all and I've had no problems with my two batteries. Don't get me wrong, I love the tools. In fact I sounded a lot like you (I recommended them to several dozen people, in fact) until they told me to gently caress off when I tried to warranty my first failed battery about 6 months after purchase... with a 3 year warranty listed on the box.* Ever since then? gently caress that company. * only if you read the tiny print on the manual you didn't read (because it says "plug in battery, install cutting disc, cut things, don't cut yourself, do not stop spinning blade with genitals") that says you have to register poo poo on their website or your warranty is worthless.
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May 5, 2014 02:55
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The only Ryobi tool I have is a table saw which was $80 or $100 new. News flash: don't loving buy an $80 table saw. I can make straighter cuts with less kickback freehanding a circular saw. I knew it wasn't going to be great when I bought it but it was small enough to fit on my apartment balcony and at an impulse buy price sooo.
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May 5, 2014 03:03
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Any recommendations on a good 12 volt tire pump? Got into a jam today and was able to borrow one, but I should probably have my own.
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May 5, 2014 04:01
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iForge posted:Any recommendations on a good 12 volt tire pump? Got into a jam today and was able to borrow one, but I should probably have my own. I have this with my Jeep and love it--it can inflate big 31"+ off road tires in minutes: http://www.amazon.com/Industries-MV...volt+compressor Only fault is that it's kind of loud, but all small compressors are usually that way.
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May 5, 2014 04:53
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Those are what I see off-roaders use quite a bit. If that doesn't float your boat, though, here's the suggestion I put in the PYF Product Recommendation thread:Krakkles posted:First thing: They're always going to be loud. Offroaders use them a lot, and I spend a lot of time around them, and the one I have is the only one I've seen that's (relatively) quiet, and that's only because it's custom mounted with sound absorbing materials inside the vehicle fender.
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May 5, 2014 07:19
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sharkytm posted:I can't believe that no one has mentioned the trailer hitch mounts that are all the rage on garage journal. I've got one on my bench and it's great. I can also mount my tools on either my front or rear hitch on my truck, which is a nice touch. Details on that? New benches are on my list this year. The ones that came in my shop are, uh, full of spiders and immovable.
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May 5, 2014 08:34
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Recommend me a 4.5" angle grinder. 240v mains powered, mainly automotive/metalwork, very occasional DIY use for cutting paving slabs and the like. Not wanting to spend money for the fun of it, but happy to cough up if justified.
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May 6, 2014 21:51
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kastein posted:* only if you read the tiny print on the manual you didn't read (because it says "plug in battery, install cutting disc, cut things, don't cut yourself, do not stop spinning blade with genitals") that says you have to register poo poo on their website or your warranty is worthless. I have yet to put this to the test and hopefully I won't have to. But it sounds good, so far. Advent Horizon posted:Details on that? New benches are on my list this year. The ones that came in my shop are, uh, full of spiders and immovable.
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May 6, 2014 22:03
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kastein posted:Don't get me wrong, I love the tools. In fact I sounded a lot like you (I recommended them to several dozen people, in fact) until they told me to gently caress off when I tried to warranty my first failed battery about 6 months after purchase... with a 3 year warranty listed on the box.* Are we talking about the 18V lithium one+ line? Because I have this set and for less than a hundred bucks I really can't complain. Of course my batteries still work, so there is that. Also, I vaguely remember reading somewhere that the law requires companies to honor the warranty whether or not you send in the registration card. Scummy on Ryobi's part nonetheless, but you might be able to play that card and get them to honor the warranty.
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May 6, 2014 22:18
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sbyers77 posted:Are we talking about the 18V lithium one+ line? Because I have this set and for less than a hundred bucks I really can't complain. Of course my batteries still work, so there is that. Yes. It was great till it wasn't. All 3 batteries (two nicad and one li-ion) have now failed. I might be able to wrangle with them (believe me, I tried already) but I'd rather just punch them repeatedly in the bottom line by honestly telling everyone I know that they are shitbags and don't honor their warranty instead. I already bought a 6V and a 12V 7Ah lead acid gelcell pack and (when I remember, probably tomorrow night or Thursday since I'm hitting the junkyard Friday) will be wiring them into a gutted broken battery pack so I can cut things in half for approximately 19 trillion years with it before it runs down. I've already steered something like two dozen people away from them based on factual evidence. So I hope they're happy that they saved themselves 50 bucks retail price on just warrantying my poo poo like they should have. gently caress you, ryobi t 
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May 7, 2014 00:56
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So I took apart an outboard engine without knowing what I was doing and now I'm trying to replace the head gasket (also without knowing what I'm doing) and get it back together. I don't do a lot of engine stuff but it seems like now's the time to buy a torque wrench. For my current job I need to crank the cylinder head down to 85lb-in. If I'm going to own one torque wrench that can do this job and isn't too expensive which should it be? I'm looking at Home Depot (Husky, powerbuilt), and Amazon (Tekton). http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24320-4-Inch-Torque-20-200-Inch/dp/B00C5ZL2EG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1399424196&sr=8-2&keywords=torque+wrench http://www.homedepot.com/p/Powerbuilt-3-8-in-and-1-2-in-Dual-Drive-Torque-Wrench-944001/203116804 http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3-8-in-Click-Torque-Wrench-H3DTW/202916179 asdf32 fucked around with this message at 02:18 on May 7, 2014 |
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May 7, 2014 02:05
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kastein posted:gently caress you, ryobi t   Edit: asdf32 posted:If I'm going to own one torque wrench that can do this job and isn't too expensive which should it be? I'm looking at Home Depot (Husky, powerbuilt), and Amazon (Tekton). I definitely wouldn't buy the Powerbuilt, that brand seems to be universally poo poo in my experience. The Tekton looks suspiciously like the Pittsburgh (HF) model, and the Husky is pretty pricey for what it is. Are you sure it's 85lb-in? That seems light for head bolts. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 02:29 on May 7, 2014 |
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May 7, 2014 02:08
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melon cat posted:And this is a big contrast to Milwaukee. Just got my first Milwaukee tool and I was pleasantly surprised to find out that you don't need to register the drill for warranty purposes. All you need is the proof of purchase, and failing that "The product's serial number will be used to determine the warranty period or eligibility". You attach the hitch mount to the underside of your workbench. Then you take the bench tools you want to be able to switch out and bolt/weld them to a hitch (minus the ball, obviously). Slides in and out and secures with one pin.
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May 7, 2014 05:21
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I"m still convinced it's not possible to overbuild a workbench 
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May 7, 2014 05:28
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Anybody got tips on good Allen wrenches? I feel like every time I had to use one here in the nature exposed parts there's a fifty/fifty chance for stripping the bolt head or the wrench itself. Not as bad as torx but still pretty lovely.
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May 7, 2014 05:28
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Apparently Allen keys being torque-limiting by the size-shape of the tool tip is a feature, not a bug, so good luck.
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May 7, 2014 06:01
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Krakkles posted:This set is what I have in my toolbox, it's more than adequate.
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May 7, 2014 06:27
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iv46vi posted:Anybody got tips on good Allen wrenches? I feel like every time I had to use one here in the nature exposed parts there's a fifty/fifty chance for stripping the bolt head or the wrench itself. Not as bad as torx but still pretty lovely. I bought these recently and they seem pretty nice. I could have sworn I bought them after reading about it in this thread, but I'm not finding any reference now. Anyways the ball end is nice for when you can't quite get in there perfectly perpendicular. The corrosion resistant coating seems high quality and they have a lifetime warranty. Or you could get fancy and get a t-handle set from the same company.
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May 7, 2014 06:28
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iv46vi posted:Anybody got tips on good Allen wrenches? I feel like every time I had to use one here in the nature exposed parts there's a fifty/fifty chance for stripping the bolt head or the wrench itself. Not as bad as torx but still pretty lovely. gently caress hex heads forever. The tiniest little bit of rust and they just strip right out. Sockets work better, as long as you have the space to use a ratchet. Tip on getting out stripped hex bolts: Hammer in a torx socket (or screwdriver) that is a size bigger, and turn that. It works 9 times out of 10, with the added bonus that in a pinch you can reuse the bolt if you don't have a spare.
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May 7, 2014 06:30
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These are pretty loving rad for the most part: http://www.amazon.com/Wera-SPKL-Two-Component-Storage-9-Pieces/dp/B000XIUMKC Last time I checked, they didn't make t handle or socket drivers using this profile, which is a shame since it works a bit better as long as you never get it tilted wrong in the hex. If you do, it sucks just as bad as any other allen key. Edit: I guess they do still have hex plus in straight bits of assorted hex shanks. These were listed under hand impact drivers: http://www-de.wera.de/product_detail.html?L=0&file=schlagdreher_und_schonhaemmer_serie_schlagdreher_90_nm_840_2_s&lang=de Commodore_64 fucked around with this message at 07:25 on May 7, 2014 |
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May 7, 2014 07:12
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Krakkles posted:I just spent about $600 on Milwaukee and Bosch gear, without even looking at what Ryobi offers, specifically because you said that about them. So ... Yes, sure. It's a 3.3hp engine. I think I'm going with the tekton. Hard to argue with the reviews or price.
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May 7, 2014 14:08
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Advent Horizon posted:Details on that? New benches are on my list this year. The ones that came in my shop are, uh, full of spiders and immovable. Sorry for the delay, I'm half-way across the world (Bahrain). Here's some examples: http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=57193 http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=159647 http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=168307 http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=175873 Basically, you bolt a receiver tube under/next/through the bench, and put mounts on all your tools. I've got a similar setup at my house. My bench grinder, 3 vises, and portaband table all have mounts. I can store them under the table, out of the way, but it is simple to pop one onto the bench as needed. I also have an extender for my truck hitch so I can use them on either the front or back. It's very useful at certain times.
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May 7, 2014 15:55
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What *is* a good fastener head? They all seem terrible in their own way.
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May 7, 2014 19:05
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For internal wrenching, XZN (triple-square, beloved of VAG) isn't too bad, for external, splines are what you really want, but a bi-hexagonal 12-point is what goes on most aerospace stuff.
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May 7, 2014 19:07
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thebigcow posted:What *is* a good fastener head? They all seem terrible in their own way. Discounting rust issues, I agree with InitialDave. With rust, hex and torx are about the best. External torx is pretty OK too (since I already blew 40 bucks on a set of sockets for them, admittedly.) For rusty torx, you have to make sure you knock all the gunk out before even trying, though. I like hex because if they rust evenly enough, they just become the next size down, or swap from SAE to metric...  and even if no socket will fit nicely, a locking adjustable wrench usually works great.Allen head can go get hosed. With a rusty rake. 12 point bi-hex are pretty OK, at least once they rust down badly enough that you can barely recognize them, you can just dremel the rust off and weld a larger nut around them. Torx-plus is only annoying because I haven't bought a set of sockets yet. External Torx-plus, same story. Square bolt heads are OK because you can put an adjustable wrench on them without really risking rounding them off, but suck for every other reason. Especially in tight quarters where you may not be able to get 1/8 turn out of them, but could get 1/12 of a turn out of a hex and then flip the box wrench over. Spline drive suck once rusted, but are very nice until then. "Universal" wrenches are gimmicky bullshit intended for harry homeowner who wants a cool looking tool that will fit the one brand new bolt he will ever turn on his kids new swingset. They suck if you have to deal with high torque fasteners, or anything even mildly corroded, unless you were simply wanting to round it off. They do that equally well on all fasteners. Flat blade screws can go to hell. Phillips are OK, if they don't round. Robertson are annoying because I rarely see them, but work nicely. Honestly, if I had my choice, I'd make everything with hex bolts, triple-squares (or maybe even quadruple-triangles, if anyone made such a thing!) and internal+external torx plus. Reduced-head fasteners would all be triple square or quad-triangle. kastein fucked around with this message at 19:35 on May 7, 2014 |
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May 7, 2014 19:27
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One of the benefits of 12pt heads is that they are very compact, they need little more room around them than a cap-head does, and they will allow you to apply more torque than a plain hex which would fit in the same footprint. Also, if you have something that's rounded off, I can recommend Irwin Bolt Grips for removal - think of them as an external easy-out. I've found they work better than the "locking wheel nut remover" things that are basically a self-tapping left-hand female thread with a slight taper to them, and they're available in a wider range of sizes:  You're right, a good dose of corrosion really changes the picture for how well a fastener works. You can't do a drat thing about how the stuff was put together originally, but if you're doing things yourself, you can try and protect it. While these kind of plastic head covers look a little goofy, if you put a blob of vaseline or grease in them before putting them on an exposed nut, your life will be about a million times easier when you come to undo them again: 
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May 7, 2014 19:46
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