|
From the land of newer bimmers, I think the F10 came out pretty darn good:   The pictures are from the guy who did the work, is my car and I can use them. So glad they brought A90 paint back. Pictures don't do it justice but get close.
|
#
?
May 5, 2014 00:58
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 13:08 |
|
|
Crustashio posted:Everything in the unibody is technically structural, but I drove my e36 for over a year with the rockers peeling out and a hole forming by the dead pedal (which explained why the car always smelled funny, moldy rear end carpet). To fix those properly you have to cut out the entire rocker along with the bottom of the door pillars. I wouldn't bother with it on any e36, let alone one you paid 1k for. If you need to pass a safety inspection I'd just fiberglass them. Fair enough, the top of the rockers and the floor pans are ok so maybe if I get bored I'll try doing something stupid, but otherwise I'll just drive it into the ground!
|
|
#
?
May 5, 2014 02:51
|
|
|
SpaceRangerJoe posted:The original motor blew up right after the guy bought it. No idea why they didn't put another s50 in. Emissions could be a thing, but I can figure something out. Here's what I have on the motor swap. I stand corrected on the oil pump. Actually I'm corrected on it all, shricks are damned expensive so that with ARPs, and a silvertop DME...that's a lot of coin. The only thing I can think that the motor would need to be tip top would be chain guides. Anyone else see anything glaring, x5x bros? (Paging Rev.Moo and Viper3k) Personally I'm kinda meh on the track car thing, I'd rather have an interior, but I'm weird. I will put my INTERNET OPINION(tm) in the "ok" box on this purchase if you think its solid otherwise and its what you want, no warranties express or implied. 
|
|
#
?
May 5, 2014 03:32
|
|
|
So there's a guy who owns http://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=976284 I gotta say one thing that always strikes me is how good M3s look vs the regular 3 series.
|
|
#
?
May 5, 2014 11:55
|
|
|
SpaceRangerJoe posted:The original motor blew up right after the guy bought it. No idea why they didn't put another s50 in. Emissions could be a thing, but I can figure something out. Here's what I have on the motor swap. Sounds like a decent deal for 8k as long as you're cool with lack of interior. I'd price a full interior at 2500-3500 so as long as you have no desire to have it I think the rest of the car sounds great. Might try to beat him up on price just a little bit but I don't think you'll get ripped off at that price. Also I'm interested in what they did to 'reinvent ccv system'
|
|
#
?
May 5, 2014 13:11
|
|
|
revmoo posted:Also I'm interested in what they did to 'reinvent ccv system' Thanks for any advice. I'm still pretty new in the BMW world so I appreciate any help. Anyone know of a reputable shop near Moorestown, NJ?
|
|
#
?
May 5, 2014 15:27
|
|
|
Well, the S50 doesn't have a CCV right? so it's probably an adaption of the OBD1 to the newer motor.
|
|
#
?
May 5, 2014 16:02
|
|
|
SuperDucky posted:No secured oil pump nut. Also why in the world would you s50->52 swap!? If its going to be tracked, keep in mind that if your state has emissions and you're driving it to the track, it'll have to pass inspection.
|
|
#
?
May 6, 2014 00:43
|
|
|
255 rears should fit fine, that's the standard factory size for rears on a ZHP, and they don't have rolled fenders.
|
|
#
?
May 6, 2014 01:11
|
|
|
HotCanadianChick posted:255 rears should fit fine, that's the standard factory size for rears on a ZHP, and they don't have rolled fenders. Wheel offset and width are more important than tire size for making poo poo fit.
|
|
#
?
May 6, 2014 01:22
|
|
|
255s should easily fit but those look like e46 M3 rears which are 18x9 +26 as opposed to the style 135s which are 18x8.5 +50. My old ZHP rubbed at times with a 10mm spacer, the M3 wheels would be like adding a 25mm spacer to those. I instructed for our autoX club school this weekend and my student's car was an e46 M3 vert. Despite having no roof and weighing a shitton, it actually handled quite well. And jesus christ that motor. So much nicer than my S52, it just has torque everywhere. If only S54 swaps weren't absurdly expensive.  On the downside, this was also a student's car but I didn't get to instruct him. 
|
|
#
?
May 6, 2014 01:31
|
|
|
So, if the 3-Series is only for poors...I don't want to know what owning an R53 Mini makes me. This past weekend I installed new rotors and pads on all four corners of the car, and hooked up the pressure bleeder to the hydraulic fluid reservoir. I pumped it up to around 10psi, and as I started to walk around to the right rear corner to start bleeding the brakes, I nearly ate it slipping in a rapidly growing pool of fresh, amber DOT 4 on the garage floor under the left front wheel, underneath the brake fluid reservoir. First thought was "OHJESUSSHEEEEIIITTT," so I unscrewed the pressure bleeder cap to take the squeeze off the hydraulic system. The hemorrhaging stopped. First thought was that the pressure blew a seal somewhere in the system, but after cleaning up the atrocious mess of brake fluid, there haven't been any further indications of a drip or leak anywhere. I gingerly drove the car around the block a few times, and the brakes feel like there's air in the lines somewhere, a little mushy, but nothing indicating massive hydraulic failure I was prepared for, given the amount of fluid that was pouring onto the garage floor. I still played it safe this morning and took the train to work. When I got home this evening, thankfully, the garage floor underneath the car was still dry. I'm reasonably positive that the pressure bleeder WAS firmly connected to the brake fluid reservoir in the car - the fluid seemed to be pouring out from below there, somewhere, and there wasn't any fluid pooling on top of the reservoir. I used the same style bleeder on my old '95 Mustang before it died a Las Vegas, heat-induced death, and never ran into any issues like this one - it always gave me pretty awesome feeling in the brake pedal. I'm wondering if there's some BMW black magic that I completely ignored when I went to bleed the Mini. Someone, please tell me I missed something stupid. Besides the obvious answer of getting a sub-3 Series BMW bastard child.
|
|
#
?
May 6, 2014 02:11
|
|
|
Lord Zuthulu posted:Hey guys. I really want to sell my zhp and buy an e46 m3 (coupe, 6sp). What can kind of differences can I expect when working on the s54 vs the m54 (besides costs)? I've done belts, pulleys, vcg, beisan vanos rebuild, cooling system refresh, plugs etc on my zhp so that's my reference point. From what I can tell the s54 is solid so I'm mostly just trying to be sure I won't be surprised by something. The vanos rebuild procedure looks different than the m54 one, has anyone done both and can compare? Anything else to be aware of going to a e46 m3? I've never worked on an M54, but I do my own wrenching on an S54. Nothing should be any more difficult than what you've already done. The only major repair difference that I can think of is that the S54 uses solid lifters, so you have to do valve adjustments every major service interval. This too is not difficult, just delicate. gigButt posted:E82 owners: i have a 2009 135i and the rear feels like it is on ice anytime i get into the gas. The tires are not breaking free. It seems like the diff is transferring power left or right making the car get squirmy. Is this rwd torque steer? What are some possible causes and solutions? Simple as bushings, more like m3 parts and cool overs, or all out lsd swap? That is a classic symptom of worn RTABs. DirtyHarold posted:
Does mini have an overflow tube on the reservoir? Made that mistake the first time I bled the brakes on the 911.
|
|
#
?
May 6, 2014 02:36
|
|
|
SuperDucky posted:
Love me some M rims on a grocery-gettin' wagon. Here's mine (well, the wife's). Please excuse the racing downforce wing which was stuck in the raised position that day. 
|
|
#
?
May 6, 2014 02:46
|
|
|
Crustashio posted:If only S54 swaps weren't absurdly expensive. M54 swaps make S52 power with torque everywhere too...
|
|
#
?
May 6, 2014 04:39
|
|
|
Crustashio posted:255s should easily fit but those look like e46 M3 rears which are 18x9 +26 as opposed to the style 135s which are 18x8.5 +50. My old ZHP rubbed at times with a 10mm spacer, the M3 wheels would be like adding a 25mm spacer to those. Ah, from the thumbnail sized pic on my phone, I thought those might have been style 135s off a ZHP, but yeah, if they're proper M3 wheels they'll have the wrong offset for an E46 with non-M3-sized fenders. And the fat broad torque of the M54 is why I like E46s over E36s - there's not a huge difference in peak torque values, and not a lot more peak power, but it just plain feels like a much more powerful engine because the torque feels strong everywhere on the tach. It definitely pulls harder at the top end, but even down low it still feels strong and never feels like you're straining to move the car.
|
|
#
?
May 6, 2014 05:20
|
|
|
DirtyHarold posted:the pressure bleeder I loving hate my Motiv pressure bleeder, but I found a way around the dumping-fluid problems -- just use the pressure bleeder empty and make sure you keep the reservoir topped off. It takes a little longer, but protects against the myriad of spill types I've encountered. I've had disaster after disaster trying to use the "universal" cap adapter -- don't use that, ever, unless you try it with an empty bleeder. The most recent failure was when I hooked it up to my E39 and left to get a wrench for the bleeder screw -- and came back to find the hose had sprung a leak and was pissing brake fluid all over. I haven't replaced that hose yet, but when I do, next time will be dry.
|
|
#
?
May 6, 2014 11:36
|
|
EVERYWHERE 
|
AI is full of nothing but horror stories about pressure bleeders. I'll stick to the old fashioned way, thanks. swampnutz posted:Love me some M rims on a grocery-gettin' wagon. Here's mine (well, the wife's). Please excuse the racing downforce wing which was stuck in the raised position that day.
|
|
#
?
May 6, 2014 14:32
|
|
|
What's the deal with convertibles? They don't handle well as normal cars because...?
|
|
#
?
May 6, 2014 14:42
|
|
|
Tab8715 posted:What's the deal with convertibles? They don't handle well as normal cars because...? In a unibody the chassis is going to be more flexible unless they specifically design a convertible version which would be pretty expensive. The alternative is to brace it, which adds weight and reduces usable interior space. The top mechanism also adds weight and complexity to the car
|
|
#
?
May 6, 2014 14:47
|
|
|
Chassis isn't as stiff because it's missing all the roof bracing, there's added bracing to make up for it but it adds weight and doesn't quite get there. Add that to the weight of the convertible top assembly and you have a heavier car with more chassis flex. It's really not a big deal, but there's no such thing as free lunch.
|
|
#
?
May 6, 2014 14:47
|
|
|
Is it pretty common to charge more for an alignment on a lowered car? I just dropped off the M3 for a final alignment now that I have the ride height set. They tacked on another $20 for it being lowered on top of an already high price ($100 seems a bit steep). The place has good reviews so I figure the higher price maybe worth it to be done right. Though it was a little disconcerting when both of the guys at the counter where staring at me like I was from mars when I was giving them numbers for camber/toe. Update: Well they couldn't get the camber perfect, up front they have left side -2.4 and right side -1.6 any more adjustments would have thrown off the caster apparently. The rear they got to -2.4 camber and they said the toe was maxed out one side but within spec. Popete fucked around with this message at 20:13 on May 6, 2014 |
|
#
?
May 6, 2014 14:49
|
|
|
Tab8715 posted:What's the deal with convertibles? They don't handle well as normal cars because...? Having driven M3s and a coupe version of the 335i convertible I just bought I have to say the chassis is better than I was expecting. I wouldn't use it as a track day car but for blasting down a fun road its 95% as good. 115% top down.
|
|
#
?
May 6, 2014 15:30
|
|
|
SlapActionJackson posted:I've never worked on an M54, but I do my own wrenching on an S54. Nothing should be any more difficult than what you've already done. The only major repair difference that I can think of is that the S54 uses solid lifters, so you have to do valve adjustments every major service interval. This too is not difficult, just delicate. Ok cool, thanks. gently caress it, guess it's M3 time.
|
|
#
?
May 6, 2014 22:58
|
|
|
Lord Zuthulu posted:Ok cool, thanks. gently caress it, guess it's M3 time. This is a BMW Thread: gently caress it, guess it's M3 time.
|
|
#
?
May 6, 2014 23:32
|
|
|
Sure, if you're too poor to afford a real car like an M5. 
|
|
#
?
May 7, 2014 00:44
|
|
|
Oh my lord a 2003 530i with an automatic is the most boring 230hp ever. Easily one of the most annoying automatics too. Oh you want some acceleration? How about I shift into 5th and we thrum along at 2.5k rpm instead. Yeah, thats better, just sit back friend.
|
|
#
?
May 7, 2014 03:25
|
|
|
8ender posted:Oh my lord a 2003 530i with an automatic is the most boring 230hp ever. Easily one of the most annoying automatics too. Use the "manual" mode. Its not as fun as a real manual, but at least you can choose your gear when you want.
|
|
#
?
May 7, 2014 03:56
|
|
|
Buying an E46 to replace the problematic Mazda3 ~*my fiance*~ has. I figure with a little bit of TLC and parts thrown at it we'll have a nice car. 2002 330i, 111k.   Here's the biggest issue with the car, though. Looks like it was towed from the rear control arms. 
Lightbulb Out fucked around with this message at 04:26 on May 7, 2014 |
|
#
?
May 7, 2014 04:22
|
|
|
concise posted:Use the "manual" mode. Its not as fun as a real manual, but at least you can choose your gear when you want. On a side note, I'm having some frustration with the audio system in my car. '04 330Ci with the Nav unit and 6-disc changer in the trunk. Both of those components were just replaced by a shop. However, the same problem is occurring as before it went into the shop. The radio/cd function will cut out randomly, and then come back randomly. Doesn't matter if I'm driving on a smooth or bumpy road. Sometimes it will play for a whole drive, sometimes it cuts out and comes right back on. It's like the audio portion of the system is intermittently losing power or connection or something. The power LED on the nav unit that shows the radio on/off will sometimes stay on, but if the radio cuts out for a while, it will go off. Pressing the power on button won't do anything. Any gurus have any idea of easy things to check? I am planning on taking it back to the shop but don't have a ton of free time in my schedule, so if it's a simple fix I can check it myself.
|
|
#
?
May 7, 2014 16:11
|
|
|
Battery/Alternator gremlins? That's a weird one.
|
|
#
?
May 7, 2014 16:18
|
|
|
concise posted:Battery/Alternator gremlins? That's a weird one.
|
|
#
?
May 7, 2014 16:43
|
|
|
E46's are notoriously finicky over voltage issues. Even things may seem normal, a battery/alternator/bad ground will make poo poo act loving goofy. But what your describing sounds like a relay or a ground issue. The electronics themselves are pretty bullet proof, because you know... derived from the E39  But, joking aside, here is a website that will help you out. http://www.bbbind.com/tech_database.html There are several wiring diagrams that will assist you to where things are at. This is a link every one should have in their browser when they have any remote electrical issues.
|
|
#
?
May 7, 2014 18:19
|
|
|
I have a E90 2008 BMW 328xi without any fancy navigation system, just an audio system that has a 30 pin USB cable that I've always used a circa 2005 iPod with. Well, that iPod was recently stolen and was thinking that I could buy a 30 pin to lightning adapter and use my iPhone 5s for music playback. I scoured some BMW forums like Bimmerfest and these seems to work out just fine for folks who have a fancy navigation system; I've not seen anyone try it with the plain-jane audio system from a 2008 E90. Anyone know if this will work or not?
|
|
#
?
May 7, 2014 18:54
|
|
|
Ultimate Mango posted:From the land of newer bimmers, I think the F10 came out pretty darn good: It's a great color even in the "commoner" B90 Sophisto Grau (Dark Graphite Metallic II) version. I would get it again. Yours almost has a Callisto Grey tinge to it, probably due to the surroundings.   Still not as cool as the old Stahlgrau (Panzer Grey) though.  
Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 00:34 on May 8, 2014 |
|
#
?
May 8, 2014 00:32
|
|
|
GentlemanofLeisure posted:I only recently started using the manual mode on my e46. It's good fun if its your only option, but not the same as a true manual. Also being able to hold gears is a good thing, my daily commute has a couple weird corners where the automatic transmission does some weird shifting. Holding 2nd gear through them is a lot nicer. Yeah it can be pretty useful for weird grades etc - on my way home there's a hill that makes the auto trip out and want to rev way high to shift out of 2nd so I slam it over and do it myself. It's also great on the way home from the mountains near my house; I can lose 6000 feet and rarely touch the brakes (assuming there's not some dirtbag in front of me slamming brakes at the entry to every corner).
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2014 01:22
|
|
|
My e65 745i gives me a "Dynamic Drive inactive!" error anytime I really push it hard into corners and get body roll. Anyone know what that's about?
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2014 03:20
|
|
|
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2014 03:26
|
|
|
Nait Sirhc posted:My e65 745i gives me a "Dynamic Drive inactive!" error anytime I really push it hard into corners and get body roll. Anyone know what that's about? Didn't those have the diagonally cross linked suspension components that helped control body roll? They were the newer style active roll stabilization but there was a bit I recall reading about. Could be a malfunction related to that, I got it a few times in my e66.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2014 03:34
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 13:08 |
|
|
Nait Sirhc posted:My e65 745i gives me a "Dynamic Drive inactive!" error anytime I really push it hard into corners and get body roll. Anyone know what that's about? $$$$$. It's about the dolla dolla bills y'all is about to get parted from.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2014 03:46
|
|