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Yeah, two reasons mostly: 1. Most people who want and can afford a top of the line 7er aren't going to buy used. They're probably going to lease a brand new one. The secondary market is pretty small. 2. A couple trips to the mechanic and you'll find out why the secondary market is pretty small.
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# ? May 15, 2014 21:28 |
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# ? Jun 4, 2024 11:16 |
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sanchez posted:All this talk of 7's had me looking at ebay, holy poo poo depreciation is incredible on them. A 2013 750li that stickered for 105k with ~10k miles can be had for 70-75k now. That's $35,000 in lost value in 12 months. When I got mine it was 2.5 years old and sold for 42% of its original MSRP. Granted it had 32,000 miles but it was in great shape. A number of people have said that a CPO 7 series, kept through CPO warranty only (that's the catch) is the cheapest large luxury car you can own. Based on my calculations I think it cost me about $500 a month all said and done. Not bad for a six figure luxury boat. I'll have to drive my new 5er for twelve years to match that.
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# ? May 15, 2014 21:30 |
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Beater7 continues to be awesome. Dynamic Drive errors went away after topping up PS fluid with Pentosin. One minor gripe is that every time I start the car up, iDrive defaults to the Navigation screen now instead of the Entertainment screen (which it used to always default to), and every 10 starts or so the audio settings (bass and treble adjustments) reset to default. OH MAN FUUUUUUCK THE CAR IS BROKEN I BETTER GO DROP TWO GRAND FOR REPAIRS ~sob~ edit: IMO if you want luxury CPO, look for a 3-4 year old Mercedes S600 with the 7-year bumper-to-bumper extended warranty on it. Car MSRP's for $150k, sells for $50k after 4 years. Twin turbo V12, 510hp, etc.
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# ? May 16, 2014 03:42 |
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Happy page 540. In honor, here's a car I should have flown out to get three years ago.
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# ? May 16, 2014 04:13 |
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Oh look, the back side of Jerome in Az. White Spars just south are better twisties but still a good spot. edit: How the hell do you completely disable traction control in an E92? One press to disable DSC, hold it to 'disable' traction control but the loving thing still cuts power abruptly when slip angle gets large enough. Maybe it's just the diesels that do this. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 12:33 on May 16, 2014 |
# ? May 16, 2014 11:27 |
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I'm really tempted to sell my 2006 accord for this and keep the change; http://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/bmw/e46-3-series-98-06/bmw-3-series-e46-330i-se-2002/2305647?isexperiment=true But I can't help but think I'll get the one that tears its subframe and shits its coolant everywhere but 2.0 VTEC to a 330i seems like a worthwhile trade.
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# ? May 16, 2014 13:11 |
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What are some possible causes of intermittent power steering failure? It happens only when parking and only after the steering wheel has turned a few times (as in, the steering wheel has moved back and forth some, not necessarily near lock). No obvious leaks and fluid level is good. It's an N42 engine.
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# ? May 16, 2014 13:35 |
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Failing belt tensioner perhaps? When you turn the wheel a bit it's putting more strain on the power steering pump, pulleys and belts.
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# ? May 16, 2014 14:29 |
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Page 540 crew. FIXIT NOTES ON ABOVE HOOPTY: tonight I test the resistor pack and aux fan, and order whatever's broken. I've read you can resurrect the fans if they're sticky, so may try that. If the motor's good and the resistors are not, i'm DIYing a resistor pack out of 0.5 ohm 100 watt power resistors, the two stock ones are 0.5ohm/85watt and 0.2ohm/85watt, i'll use a single 0.5 for the first and two 0.5's in parallel to approximate the second. They're about 4 bucks a pop and I need three, versus 75 bucks for the 'real' pack. Really wish there was a a way to retro the PWM fan circuit they put in around '98, much cleaner than just using big ugly rear end resistors.
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# ? May 16, 2014 15:30 |
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I always felt like those resistor packs were the most hacky piece of poo poo ever. They're such a hack that it's almost elegant. How do you cool them when they heat up? Stick em in the path of the A/C!
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# ? May 16, 2014 15:39 |
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revmoo posted:I always felt like those resistor packs were the most hacky piece of poo poo ever. They're such a hack that it's almost elegant. How do you cool them when they heat up? Stick em in the path of the A/C! You are now qualified to engineer Hybrid vehicles.
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# ? May 16, 2014 15:40 |
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Coils of Nichrome wire in the air path of the blower is how every multi-speed HVAC system has been forever, PWM is pretty new.
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# ? May 16, 2014 20:55 |
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Sold my E46 M Sport for more than I got it for, I loved it, but it requires some one who is bright eyed and optimistic. I felt that the subframe would break at every turn while simultaneously crapping the cooling system. I feel peace. Looking at IS350's and E92 330's now.
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# ? May 17, 2014 01:59 |
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More adventures in E90 fuckery. Came out of a restaurant to car that would not start, and barely turned over. No warning lights in the two trips right before it, car ran fine. Tow truck driver jumped it, started right up. Got a block away, and got a pile of warning lights, engine died again. Will not start, even the 4-ways died after 10 minutes or so. Got it towed home and put the battery charger on it, thinking it was just completely flat, and it says it's 96%, and finished charging in about 5 minutes. Still no power at all to the car. Can't even lock it with the keyfob. Start button does nothing, no lights even come on when the door opens. What do I even look at? Is this from my oil cap issue? Did I spray oil over something and short out my entire electrical system? The other problem I have is there's a strange noise coming from the back half of the car. Like a gurgling pump or something. Here's a short video with the sound. http://youtu.be/NunUZ1NroTk What the hell did I do to my car? Anyone know where I should start looking?
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# ? May 17, 2014 03:39 |
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Funzo posted:What the hell did I do to my car? Anyone know where I should start looking? Actually it might be related to a starter or alternator. If you're not good with diagnosing poo poo a trip to a shop is in your near future.
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# ? May 17, 2014 03:48 |
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Funzo posted:More adventures in E90 fuckery. Came out of a restaurant to car that would not start, and barely turned over. No warning lights in the two trips right before it, car ran fine. Tow truck driver jumped it, started right up. Got a block away, and got a pile of warning lights, engine died again. Will not start, even the 4-ways died after 10 minutes or so. Got it towed home and put the battery charger on it, thinking it was just completely flat, and it says it's 96%, and finished charging in about 5 minutes. Still no power at all to the car. Can't even lock it with the keyfob. Start button does nothing, no lights even come on when the door opens. What do I even look at? Is this from my oil cap issue? Did I spray oil over something and short out my entire electrical system? Your battery is dead and needs to be replaced.
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# ? May 17, 2014 04:07 |
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CharlesM posted:Your battery is dead and needs to be replaced. Yeah, considering how the E9x's computers need to be told that a fresh battery was installed, I can't imagine they much appreciate being jump-started or having charged battery being presented to them. It won't cause any damage to the car, but I can guarantee it will cause all kinds of problems until the battery is replaced properly.
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# ? May 17, 2014 04:22 |
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mulligan posted:Sold my E46 M Sport for more than I got it for, I loved it, but it requires some one who is bright eyed and optimistic. I felt that the subframe would break at every turn while simultaneously crapping the cooling system. This post is completely hilarious when taken in conjunction with the post immediately following it. If you aren't prepared for keeping totally on top of maintenance and dealing with the occasional surprise, _no_ BMW is a good car for you. I suggest an Acura or Lexus if you want something that you'll never have to worry about. An E9x isn't really going to be much different/better, it'll just be slightly different poo poo that'll break compared to an E46, and lower mileage.
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# ? May 17, 2014 05:56 |
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What year is your E90? It could be related to this recall: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=804545
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# ? May 17, 2014 07:10 |
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If I wanted another BMW, I would be driving to Seattle tomorrow: http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/4467552590.html
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# ? May 17, 2014 09:56 |
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Billy Zane posted:What year is your E90? It could be related to this recall: Mine's an '06, so I don't think I'm under that one. I'll get a new battery this weekend and see what happens. I'll have to see if there's anyone local that can do that registration process I guess you have to do to reset something in the computer.
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# ? May 17, 2014 12:36 |
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Popete posted:You want your car to be passed of as an X3? I'm cheap, but I try not to look cheap because that's not a great personality trait to some people I'd like it to pass as something newer and more expensive, yes, but I picked a bad example, the X3 is only for poors who can't afford a REAL BMW (SUV).
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# ? May 17, 2014 13:50 |
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It's funny, I drove a X5 and it actually surprised me with the handling but what I wasn't impressed by was the luxury. It drove too much like a car.
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# ? May 17, 2014 14:58 |
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meatpimp posted:They were "craigslist perfect." Lips were not polished, they were painted with clearcoat scratches/gouges, one wheel had a chunk out of the sidewall and rim, listed as "BF Goodyear Forumula F1" tires, which was partially correct -- two of them were Goodyear F1s, the other two were Goodrich. Hi last week's meatpimp. This week's meatpimp is going back to look at the wheels again for $700. Even with some cosmetics and mismatched tires, still a good deal from what I've seen.
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# ? May 17, 2014 15:40 |
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Funzo posted:Mine's an '06, so I don't think I'm under that one. I'll get a new battery this weekend and see what happens. I'll have to see if there's anyone local that can do that registration process I guess you have to do to reset something in the computer. It will cost you the same amount to buy the tool / software to code the new battery yourself as it will to have a dealership do it for you. Fwiw.
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# ? May 17, 2014 16:24 |
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Funzo posted:Mine's an '06, so I don't think I'm under that one. I'll get a new battery this weekend and see what happens. I'll have to see if there's anyone local that can do that registration process I guess you have to do to reset something in the computer. My 06 325xi qualified for the battery cable recall, so don't rule it out. And do the battery registration when you install the battery. DO NOT WAIT. You will end up putting too much current into the new battery and damage it. And yeah, paying a dealer to do it is about the same cost as buying the cable and software.
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# ? May 17, 2014 17:11 |
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meatpimp posted:Hi last week's meatpimp. This week's meatpimp is going back to look at the wheels again for $700. Even with some cosmetics and mismatched tires, still a good deal from what I've seen. I'm glad I listened to this week's meatpimp. They looked much better on second view. Full, legit Original BMW rims with the correct E39 part numbers for front and rear and 2003 build dates. Rear tires (BFG g-force sport comp-2 alphabet soups) are just about brand new with a 12/12 build date. The fronts are also new as far as tread depth, but 6/05 build date tells me they are going to be stones when I get them on the car. I'll just get a pair for the front to match the back and be set. On the car later today, but as of right now:
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# ? May 17, 2014 19:02 |
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I'm pretty sure if you need your E90 battery coded you can use the same guys that do the other coding. You can find them on the Bimmerfest and Bimmerpost forumss. I coded my F10 myself since it was very easy but had a guy from NYC code my E90 over the interwebs. They usually charge around $125 vs the $500 you'll get capped for at the dealer. Taking the Nav disclaimers off, extra seatbelt warnings, adding actual MPH on the cluster, auto mirror folding, etc is very nice to have on the E90. F10 you can code similar things along with the actual TPMS values (pressure/temp) among other things.
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# ? May 17, 2014 19:58 |
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meatpimp posted:I'm glad I listened to this week's meatpimp. They looked much better on second view. Full, legit Original BMW rims with the correct E39 part numbers for front and rear and 2003 build dates. Rear tires (BFG g-force sport comp-2 alphabet soups) are just about brand new with a 12/12 build date. The fronts are also new as far as tread depth, but 6/05 build date tells me they are going to be stones when I get them on the car. I'll just get a pair for the front to match the back and be set. Seeing actual pictures, that was a smoking deal for the condition. These days Mpars are seriously expensive, a local guy wants 1000 for a set without tires. I've always loved them but they look like rear end on e36s.
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# ? May 17, 2014 20:25 |
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sanchez posted:All this talk of 7's had me looking at ebay, holy poo poo depreciation is incredible on them. A 2013 750li that stickered for 105k with ~10k miles can be had for 70-75k now. That's $35,000 in lost value in 12 months. This, to me, is the secret formula that is leasing a car. Your total lease payments for a 7 should be less than the like a rock depreciation.
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# ? May 17, 2014 20:32 |
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Picked up my 2011 520d F11 today from the dealer, proceeded to drive up and down the autobahn for most of the day, than majestically cruising through the towns . Totally in love.
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# ? May 17, 2014 22:00 |
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Crustashio posted:Seeing actual pictures, that was a smoking deal for the condition. These days Mpars are seriously expensive, a local guy wants 1000 for a set without tires. I've always loved them but they look like rear end on e36s. That's great to know. I'm getting more comfortable with the deal now that I have them mounted and have driven it to see that they're balanced with no issues: The front wheel gap isn't as bad in real life as it looks in the picture. I really like the way it changes the look of the car. Now I just need to order a set of front tires so it's all matchy-matchy, sell the fronts on there now, remove and sell the nice Michelins on the 16" stock set and buy a set of Winters for the 16" stock set. Then I'll have my wheel/tire setup sorted.
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# ? May 17, 2014 22:28 |
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Mpars are the best wheels for E38s and E39s.
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# ? May 17, 2014 22:36 |
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Maybe it is just my love of 90s cars, but I think alpine e39s look much better with black exterior trim.
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# ? May 17, 2014 22:46 |
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Warning: poor-mobile picture incoming. It's really hard to take a picture that actually shows how blue the Silverstone color is, but that's probably because it's only a 3-series and they didn't get the special unicorn paint.
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# ? May 18, 2014 01:14 |
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Fuckin' aye those wheels. I want those.
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# ? May 18, 2014 01:22 |
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They are stock Style 219 wheels if you are looking for a set.
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# ? May 18, 2014 12:44 |
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Those really are the best wheels. Strong and light as factory wheels go, and there's plenty of tires that will fit them. Also brake-dust-gunmetal-grey suits them well
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# ? May 18, 2014 17:33 |
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I have another set in the basement as well, fitted with winter tires. I like the looks of them so much I wanted to have the car look the same in winter mode. You're definitely right about them hiding brake dust well though.
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# ? May 18, 2014 19:35 |
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# ? Jun 4, 2024 11:16 |
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I have a feeling the reason my car's PO had the style 135s repainted gunmetal was to hide all the brake dust. So many spokes, so much dust .
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# ? May 18, 2014 20:14 |