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drat it, thank you sir. I just about caved to the wife on a 01 XJ for her "summer fun car" since I get to have so many Rx-7's (don't get married). Looks like I'm sticking with a 97-99 XJ 4.0 5spd.
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May 8, 2014 00:31
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You know what the hell you're doing, you could go junkyarding and have yourself a 02.5-04 WJ 0331 head for under 100 dollars, toss some new gaskets and seals at it and be done in an afternoon. Not like it matters though, if 5 speed is a requirement, very few 00-01s got them. They swap to 5 speed with all the same parts as a 97-99 though (unless you're picky about it being exactly factory, then you need an NV3550 instead of an AX15, not like it matters though) except for the ECU, and you can get the factory auto ECU retuned to manual for a couple hundred.
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May 8, 2014 00:34
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 http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/4456320184.html We still may check it out, it's super clean for the PNW.
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May 8, 2014 01:17
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the spyder posted:
That's a pretty funny lookin' XJ it's a TJ 
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May 8, 2014 03:53
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Same screed about the 0331 applies either way, but yeah, that's a TJ.
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May 8, 2014 04:01
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Alright. I officially love these tires. With a little practice I can now maintain 53-55 or so through that same cloverleaf with the throttle WFO. I don't know how many Gs I'm pulling but it's not a small number. 29" tall 235/75R15 mudterrains should not be capable of this. This morning on the way to work the MIL came on and my idle started randomly surging. Pretty sure my ultra ghetto "oh god make it stay together and get home from the shop" electrical tape repair of a CCV system vacuum elbow/metering port finally melted or broke in half. I guess I'll have to actually put the new elbow in now...
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May 9, 2014 05:39
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Kastein, that plug looks very. very. british. Old rovers/jags are littered with em.
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May 9, 2014 15:41
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CSB - Thanks! I'll have to see if I can find anything with that info. Found a transmission I might get for the 5 ton... who knows things about SAE bellhousings and flywheels and crap? The 6BT5.9 I will probably be getting for it has an SAE 2 clutch setup and flywheel housing. The transmission I found today is an Eaton Fuller RTO14615. 0.78 OD (not quite as good as the 0.73 OD on the RTX14709H I was looking at, but about 100 miles closer and 6 more gears) 15 speeds, 1450 ft-lb max input torque, SAE 1 bellhousing. I know I can buy an expensive 1" thick adapter plate to put a #1 transmission onto a #2 engine. What else do I need? Flywheel spacer? Throwout bearing spacer? Pilot bearing spacer or a custom pilot bearing? Are all clutch disc splines for MDTs/HDTs the same, do I need anything funky here? I'm assuming I can just bolt a flywheel spacer on, use a #2 flywheel/clutch/PP and stab the #1 transmission input shaft into it just fine once I install the bellhousing flange adapter plate, but I don't want to spend a bundle of cash and find out I'm wrong. Alternatively, I could probably put an SAE #2 bellhousing on the transmission, but I don't want to know what a new bellhousing for an OTR truck transmission costs, and I have no idea how to find out what will bolt to it from a junkyard. Heavy truck stuff is all new to me.
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May 11, 2014 00:51
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Gonna get poo poo faced on free schnapps tonight.
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May 11, 2014 00:55
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Super Aggro Crag posted:Gonna get poo poo faced on free schnapps tonight. Go hog wild, I sure as gently caress wasn't gonna drink it at this point  I can't find any info about this SAE bellhousing crap online. Either it's really complex and no one posts about it, or it's so simple no one bothers to post about it.
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May 11, 2014 01:16
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JnnyThndrs probably knows a thing or two, but when's the last time anyone heard from him?
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May 11, 2014 01:36
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Decided it's way too nice outside to be inside not fixing a jeep. So I'm outside fixing a jeep instead. We meet again.  Petcock.  It's nice to actually catch all the coolant that came out out of something for once. Having a few feet to spare between the underside of the vehicle and the 5 gallon pail helps, and so does the fact that the petcock is in the lowest section of the cooling system and points straight down. I drained 4 or 5 gallons out, didn't have another pail handy and that should have the coolant below the head gasket anyways so I'm not gonna bother draining more unless it becomes an issue. Big turbo. Too bad the thing only makes 175hp/525 foot pounds and gets 5mpg. This is why I want to replace this motor with a B or C series cummins.  Off to the parts store to buy more shop towels, brakleen, some razor blades, an 11/16" low profile box wrench, and whatever else I am forgetting. Hoping to have this thing buttoned up with new head gaskets in time for Go Topless Day in Monson MA this Saturday. I may be able to get it temp plated for the day and drive it on over, since it's only about 10-15 miles from here. Currently: road draft tube off water manifolds off intake flame heater system off turbo off exhaust off thermostat housing and upper radiator plumbing off intake manifold completely unbolted but trapped by: exhaust manifold being a dickbag and getting in my way. I remember the intake/exhaust manifolds being a lot more of a pain in the rear end to remove last time, but I had only been working on my own vehicles for 2 years at that point. It's now been 6 years so I have a little more prespective on what can reasonably be considered "a pain in the rear end". kastein fucked around with this message at 20:12 on May 11, 2014 |
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May 11, 2014 20:09
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Can you in fact go topless with that thing? 5mpg is more than I expected. That's practically smokemap Ram territory. Don't forget the GoPro if you can get it plated, especially if you drive it to the registry and get the desk jockey to come out and look. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 20:16 on May 11, 2014 |
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May 11, 2014 20:13
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I can. In fact I drove it home topless (control yourselves, ladies) from Pennsylvania. In a series of ever-more-saturated-and-miserable thunderstorms. The windshield halves fold up, or you can fold the whole windshield down onto the hood, too. It's best compared to a giant CJ5 on monster truck axles with a huge inefficient diesel engine. They can be had with hardtops but I ended up with a soft-top one. I'm going to need to stick a Honda radiator or something under the dash with a fan as a heater core at some point because driving it in the winter is pretty miserable, it's not what you would call an airtight cab and there just plain isn't a heating system as it stands right now.
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May 11, 2014 20:16
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kastein posted:CSB - Thanks! I'll have to see if I can find anything with that info. I think you can get a #1 flywheel and rear engine housing for the 6BT, might even be possible to find a #2 bell and clutch for the RTO14615 for a decent price. I work in a truck tranny shop, but I've only been doing it a year so if tomorrow isn't batshit crazy I'll ask one of the retrofit gurus we have.
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May 11, 2014 21:16
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kastein posted:I'm going to need to stick a Honda radiator or something under the dash with a fan as a heater core lol Also, kastein posted:the petcock is in the lowest section of the cooling system and points straight down. This is absolutely terrible engineering. It's supposed to point sideways, bounce off the alternator/generator, and pour down onto the undertray, which scatters it like putting a spoon under a running faucet.
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May 11, 2014 21:21
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Tommychu posted:I think you can get a #1 flywheel and rear engine housing for the 6BT, might even be possible to find a #2 bell and clutch for the RTO14615 for a decent price. I work in a truck tranny shop, but I've only been doing it a year so if tomorrow isn't batshit crazy I'll ask one of the retrofit gurus we have. I was talking to Motronic on IRC last night and apparently the RT series from 11xxx (maybe even lower) through 18xxx all use the same drat bellhousing pattern, so I can just pick up a #2 bellhousing for it and it SHOULD instantly work with a #2 clutch setup and flywheel. Not 100% sure on that yet, the spline and pilot bearing may still be wrong. The bellhousing I need is $475 new on ebay. I bet I can get one for 100 bucks at one of the junkyards around here... and then sell my #1 bellhousing on ebay for 200. All the info I found points at no #1 flywheel housing available for the B series - most people claiming it's available go on to say it's the same flywheel housing as a C series, which every expert I can find says is bullshit. So I'm reasonably certain there's no #1 flywheel housing for a B series, which makes sense because it's a pretty small motor to need something like that. Ideally I'll find a C series for 800-1k with a #1 and just bolt it to this RTO14615 but I'm not holding my breath. Fucknag posted:This is absolutely terrible engineering. It's supposed to point sideways, bounce off the alternator/generator, and pour down onto the undertray, which scatters it like putting a spoon under a running faucet. I know, right? Whoever designed it was an idiot I guess. The funniest part was even when I pulled the thermostat housing and a bunch of surprise coolant poured out... because of the angle the truck is parked on, it poured forward into the front frame crossmember, and ended up pouring out through the hole the petcock points down through, directly into the bucket. It was the most amazing thing I've ever had happen. Speaking of which. The heads are off. A few mishaps along the way, I accidentally pulled two lifters out of their bores because they were stuck to the pushrods with oil and they fell sideways across the openings of course. Fortunately, I managed to get them back in with carefully bent pieces of copper wire. Unfortunately, I was a clumsy rear end in a top hat and managed to drop one of the pieces of wire down into the engine in the process. I'm reasonably certain I heard it hit the oil pan, which means I don't care. I took two pieces of random metal out of this engine last time I was in it, so I guess I'm just balancing the random bits of metal budget. Maybe it will run better or something. Bad news: there is definitely coolant in this oiling system.  Pulled the valve covers and there was a LOT of emulsified crap on the undersides. And the rockers. And everywhere. Pulled the rocker rails and there were pools of green coolant under a few of the mounting blocks for them. gently caress. The pools are right over freeze plugs in the top surface of the head. I'm not sure if they are leaking, or if this is coolant that came from a mishap while I was assembling the motor, though I thought I cleaned all that up. Some of the injectors do appear to be pretty coked up, so there's a good chance the nasty knocking is a few cylinders not firing right. It may also be bad rod bearings, however. When I say a lot of coolant I mean a lot. So basically I may need to drop the oil pan anyways. I'm going to put the whole thing back together, maybe with new injectors, and see how it sounds, however. If it sounds good, I'm going to pretend I saw nothing and get the Cummins engine for it as soon as I possibly can.
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May 12, 2014 03:11
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Heads are on and torqued to spec. 110 first torque, 130 second, 157 third, 157 again fourth pass. Had to make a "custom tool" (there's a milspec one, but it's expensive and the current production versions are known for being crummy forgings that tend to break) to torque six of the nuts. Basically it's the closed end of a 7/8" box wrench with a long 1/2" drive extension bar welded to it. It's a real stupid design because the nut/stud is hidden under the boss for the fuel injector and there's basically no way to get at it, even a regular crows foot adapter wouldn't help because you need a few inches of clearance and the casting is so close around the nut that an open-end crows foot wouldn't be able to turn. Tomorrow the parents want to do stuff and Tuesday I'm probably helping drop that new motor into the 0331 cursed 2001 XJ, so Wednesday I'm gonna toss the manifolds, exhaust, intake, turbo, valve rockers, injectors, and wiring back on the motor, set the valve lash, dump the valve covers on it, change the oil, fill the coolant, prime the fuel system and take it for a spin around the block. Hopefully. There was no sign of head gasket leakage aside from oil leaving the pressurized oil passages (which I knew was happening) so here's hoping I fixed the issue with the new rev C head gaskets that replaced my older rev B ones... which I didn't put the oil passage crush washers in because the manual didn't tell me to 
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May 12, 2014 06:24
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Fucknag posted:Ughh. I've heard that name before and never knew what they were, but after looking it up just now they used a shitload of 'em on the Blazer. I never felt comfortable unplugging anything on that POS; the washer sprayer connectors particularly always felt like they were gonna disintegrate. GM still uses them on more recent stuff; I have them for headlight and fog light connectors.  Broke a clip on one of them the first time I changed the fog light bulbs. 
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May 12, 2014 09:22
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42 hours after having my windshield replaced for the second time this year, I get pegged by another chunk of milled asphalt. Rock chip right in my field of view. gently caress you very much MassDOT
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May 12, 2014 16:18
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Clear bra your windshield 
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May 12, 2014 17:42
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I was planning on ordering windshield tear-offs for it this week to avoid this very sort of thing 
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May 12, 2014 17:47
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More greasy olive drab truck things from yesterday. Quarter till 5.    7PM.  A little series I'd like to title "gently caress MassDOT" Receipt from Saturday's windshield replacement  Still hadn't even removed the tape they use to keep it in place while the urethane sets.  Paper may beat rock but rock beats glass, apparently.  RIP new windshield, we hardly knew ye 
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May 12, 2014 18:31
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That's happened to me 5 out of the 6 times I've had a windshield replaced. Now I wait about a year after getting a crack before I even think about replacing the windshield.
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May 12, 2014 20:51
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I would have done exactly the same thing but I am severely overdue for an inspection and it would never have passed with the chips it had, nevermind the crack that went straight across my field of view that prompted me to take it in for replacement. So now I'm probably back where I started.
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May 12, 2014 21:12
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That loving sucks. Luckily in my state Jesse "the governor" Ventura did away with inspections altogether.
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May 12, 2014 21:36
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If Iowa had inspections, I'd never drive. Between deer, gravel roads, and rust, I'd have to spend all of my spare time and spending money trying to keep my stuff passable.
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May 13, 2014 00:37
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Part of the reason i'm okay with living in Arkansas. My window has had a massive crack going top to bottom for at least a year now, but whatever, I can still see out of it and we don't have inspections so it's fine
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May 13, 2014 06:39
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I would have no problem living in Eureka Springs.
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May 13, 2014 07:25
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How big is the chip? Can you get it resin fixed for the inspection?
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May 13, 2014 19:11
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That's the plan... once I get un-pissed enough to have it done. I don't even really want to deal with it right now, gently caress that noise. Wednesday I went over to a friends place to help him with the new 0331 and new 4.0 going into his DD XJ. He's been borrowing a car because everything he owns blew up at once. We made good time, got almost everything back together in something like 2.5 hours... then while we were getting the torque converter bolts in, he said something that killed it all. "It was a pain in the rear end to line up the bellhousing bolts, this one doesn't have those hollow peg things the lower bellhousing bolts go through for some reason"  GOD DAMMIT Me: gently caress! You're kidding. This all has to come back out, I'm sorry. Him: WTF, you're kidding right? Me: Nope. Not in the least. Those have to be in there. Yep, engine has to come right back out. He was talking about the two hollow dowel pins that align the transmission to the engine. Without them, you're rolling the dice and might lose the crank, flexplate, torque converter, input pump on the tranny, or trans input shafts and seals, or all of it, depending on your luck. $10 worth of parts forgotten during assembly made half a day worth of work loving worthless. Worse than worthless in fact because it all has to come back out. So we called it quits, he's still working on it, I've been too busy to drop by since then unfortunately. Yesterday I finally managed to get home before Tractor Supply Co closed, so I got all the new grade 8 bolts I need to put the valve covers and injector hold-down clamps back on the 5 ton. The old ones were way too crusty and hosed up to risk putting them back in, learned my lesson on that long ago. Then it started raining after I was outside working on it for maybe 15 minutes so I called it a night. The weather looks awful for tonight too so I am probably going to finish it up Saturday afternoon. kastein fucked around with this message at 23:11 on May 16, 2014 |
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May 16, 2014 23:08
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Went to Springfield today to buy a bigtruck manual transmission, the junkyard closed 10min before I got there (even though I was waving around $1k cash, they still told me to gently caress off. Guess the guy I thought was the owner wasn't, I know I'd stay open a few minutes late for an extra grand in income) so I guess I get to go out there again next weekend. Or buy one somewhere else because gently caress those guys. So I came home and drank cider and worked on the 5 ton. Manifold gaskets on.  I love having plenty of working space.  (I am sorta leaning on/sitting on the air filter housing and inner fender. I am not a short person. The alternator makes an excellent footrest.) Exhaust manifold is on.  Both manifolds are actually on and tightened fully, but it's dark so no more pictures tonight. Turbo and rocker arms+pivot rails next, then cooling system parts, going to leave the injectors, valve lash, and final touches for tomorrow because nowhere in town stocks feeler gauges and I can't find my set.
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May 18, 2014 02:04
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kastein posted:I love having plenty of working space. I know that feeling. 6'3" in my boots. Working on my dad's Austin Healey 3000 is a joy because the engine sits inside the engine bay with ample work space all around — until you need that final loving nut that, because it's British-made, requires some weird bastardised imperial measure spanner that you virtually have to saw in half just to get it into the gap. But only that one nut. What are your long-term plans for the five ton? Just a fun-as-gently caress piss-take runaround, or do you have something in mind?
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May 18, 2014 02:13
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I'm 6'5" and those are size 14 logger boots for scale. The end goal is a much more powerful engine, better transmission (overdrive!), 46" tires and beadlock wheels, heat in the cabin, and that's about it for mods. I bought it because my offroad jeep fits into the bed, so once I finish welding the loading ramps together, I'll be able to use it to haul my busted junk around instead of a fullsize pickup and trailer. Bonus, when I have to go pick up mortar mix to repoint my basement walls and loam to redo the landscaping I'll be able to just show up at Home Depot / the gravel pit and say "yeah, toss a few pallets in the back" or "I'd like 8 yards of loam please" and then drive home, instead of messing around. Hoping to have it done in time for remodeling the first floor of the house too because it'd be nice to be able to just go get a pallet of 3/4" ply and a pallet of 1/2" drywall in one trip... with a dozen windows stacked around that. Expenditures so far on the 5 ton: $2500 truck $500 or so fuel driving it home $1400 for new tires $700 or so for soft top, new drivers seat, and gasket set for the engine the first time around $90 for the gasket set the second time around Expected future costs: $800 for new engine (if Cummins 6BT5.9) or ~$1500 (if Cummins C series) $600-800 new wheels (not strictly necessary, but gently caress me if I'm going to screw around with split ring rims) $1000 new transmission $unknown hoses, metal for brackets, exhaust adaptation, intercooler, wiring, etc for engine/transmission swap (expected: below $500, I'm crafty about junkyard scrounging for engine swaps.) $lots fuel So I think I should be able to get it done for around $8-10k when all is said and done. Not bad for what I'll end up with. kastein fucked around with this message at 02:52 on May 18, 2014 |
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May 18, 2014 02:46
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How much power does the truck have stock? Surely you could put a cheaper 4BT in there and have even MORE room to work on it! Is the plan for a 6BT to do some work on the motor, or just put it in stock and enjoy the reliability? Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 02:57 on May 18, 2014 |
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May 18, 2014 02:54
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The stock engine (that monstrous green lump of White/Continental cast iron) makes 175hp and 525 foot pounds of torque, with a very... optimistic redline of 2600rpm. By that I mean they were originally designed to do no more than 2400, and once uprated to 5-ton power/torque (they made less in the deuce) with upgraded pistons, they were told it had to spin faster, so they basically said "oh uh well, we think the factor of safety is high enough, so the redline is 2600 now! Presto!" - except that's not good for them, they don't like doing that and tend to window blocks. The best part is that 2600rpm is absolutely required if you want to go a whopping 52mph, else you are stuck going way slower. This is why I want an engine that spins faster and overdrive. A non intercooled 6BT (what I'm going to be getting for 800 bucks complete) makes less torque and around the same power, but spins 100rpm faster (governed, reportedly they can be made to do 2800 or 3000rpm without much concern) and can go a little faster than that. And gets much better fuel economy while doing so... and can be tuned to (reliably) make 300hp and however much torque comes with that. I'm probably going to slap an intercooler on it, then build it for around 250hp and however much torque I can get. Really I just want the better fuel economy and higher redline. Extra power is just a bonus. At a 2700rpm redline with 46" tires and a 0.78 OD, my maximum speed by gearing is 75mph... which is a terrifying thought based on how the suspension/steering act in this thing, so I'll probably do that once just to see what it's like, then loaf around at 65mph (a comfortable 2400rpm, not wringing the engine's neck for once) happily forever. If I went hog wild and got a .73 OD transmission, a Rockwell T-1138 transfer case (instead of the stock T-138 - the 1138 has an overdrive high range), and went for 3000rpm, I could theoretically do 120mph (excluding air resistance and rolling friction, which is significant in a vehicle literally shaped like a brick with a contact patch the size of a small island nation), which is a horrifying thought. Or, at that point 70mph or so is 1800rpm, which means I could rock a Detroit Diesel and make tons of power, but an 1138 is a spendy upgrade and I'd rather stick with the stock transfer case and have to use a high speed diesel. e: to say nothing of the fact that 4BT swaps are getting so popular they are hard to find and in some cases, cost as much as or more than a 6BT! I typically see them for around 1500, I am getting a pretty good deal on this 6BT. Speaking of which, AFAIK this one's a non intercooled unit. If it is intercooled already and I am wrong, it should make more power/torque stock than I thought, otherwise, I can apparently just stick an intercooler on it and retune it, rather than having to change pistons and stuff out. Cool. kastein fucked around with this message at 03:35 on May 18, 2014 |
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May 18, 2014 03:15
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I think I found Ken's Saudi Arabian cousin. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TP-iZkVfvt0
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May 18, 2014 20:43
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Holy poo poo that looks like fun. In other, less fun news. Just discovered something broken on the 5 ton motor... fortunately it is a cheap part. Unfortunately, it is annoying to change out without removing the head again. The loving #3 inner intake valve spring (this motor uses dual nested springs) is broken. Goddammit! At least I discovered it now instead of after it let a keeper or two sneak out and then dropped a valve and hammered it into the head sideways. It's been broken for a while, too. Last time I tore this motor down for new head gaskets, I found a turn worth of it sitting in the lifter valley. I looked at it and said "hah! This is way too small to be a valve spring for this thing, look how big those are! I wonder where it came from? " and though nothing more of it. Didn't realize there were two springs per valve.Getting there.  For scale...  Two springs.  1.5 springs.  New problem: not sure where to buy one. Going to check the usual suspects.
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May 18, 2014 22:13
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I see no mention of any bodywork or paint. Any plans to paint it so it doesn't rust away?
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May 19, 2014 02:10
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I'm pretty sure the thinnest metal on it is 10 gauge steel. I tried to beat some dents out of the drivers fender since it was mangled a bit when I bought it and my deadblow didn't do poo poo. Given that, and that it leaks oil from everywhere right now, I'm pretty sure I don't have to worry about that for a while... oh and the frame is 3/8" plate  Eventually it will come apart and get cleaned up, dents beaten out and a new paintjob, but it's not high on the list right now.
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May 19, 2014 03:23
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