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Grand Fromage posted:Is there a good non-toxic spray for killing aphids? I found some, I isolated the pot but then found more in another. I don't want to spray insecticide on herbs. That's another thing I've had good luck with controlling with diatomaceous earth. Sometimes it's not enough, and that's when I deploy the ladybugs. (seriously, they are stone cold aphid killers and cheap)
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May 19, 2014 02:29
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I read online to water down your garden and spray said lady bugs with a mix of water and sprite before deploying them so their wings stick. Is this a good strategy?
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May 19, 2014 02:34
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Veskit posted:I read online to water down your garden and spray said lady bugs with a mix of water and sprite before deploying them so their wings stick. Is this a good strategy? I've never sprayed down the ladybugs with anything. Yes, provide water (simply by watering foliage in the garden) and release them at night and - if there's enough for them to eat - they will hang out.
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May 19, 2014 02:38
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Motronic posted:That's another thing I've had good luck with controlling with diatomaceous earth. Sometimes it's not enough, and that's when I deploy the ladybugs. (seriously, they are stone cold aphid killers and cheap) Yeah, ladybugs were my first thought but I don't have a clue where I'd buy them here. I found a translation for diatomaceous earth though, I can look for that. How would I use it? Sprinkle it on the soil or all over the plant, or both?
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May 19, 2014 02:40
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Grand Fromage posted:Yeah, ladybugs were my first thought but I don't have a clue where I'd buy them here. I found a translation for diatomaceous earth though, I can look for that. How would I use it? Sprinkle it on the soil or all over the plant, or both? Just sprinkle it on the plant. You want direct contact with the pest. I use an old sock. Fill it with DE and tie off the end. Hold it over things and tap.....perfectly dusted up DE comes out. I didn't realize you weren't in the US. If you have aphids, something native likely eats aphids. Ask around at garden stores or whatever your version of the county agricultural office might be.
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May 19, 2014 02:44
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We have ladybugs here, I just know that rolling into a garden store and asking for ladybugs is going to get me the blank stare. I wonder if anyone I know knows any farmers. Of course here they still roll trucks around neighborhoods spraying fog clouds of insecticide so buying ladybugs may not be a thing. E: If anyone's curious, diatomaceous earth in Korean is 규조토 
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May 19, 2014 02:58
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Grand Fromage posted:We have ladybugs here, I just know that rolling into a garden store and asking for ladybugs is going to get me the blank stare. I wonder if anyone I know knows any farmers. You'd get a blank stare in most place here as well. I mail order mine. And yeah, a farmer is definitely going to know where you can buy local or order stuff like that.
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May 19, 2014 03:13
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I usually spray everything down with a little soapy water when there's an aphid problem. A few weeks ago they decided to swarm all over my green onions, and after one treatment with soapy water they haven't bothered those plants again. Your mileage may vary, of course, and you'll probably want to avoid getting a bunch of soap in the soil. I just add a couple drops of dish soap to a 20oz spray bottle and spray directly on the affected areas of the plant.
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May 19, 2014 04:25
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Grand Fromage posted:Is there a good non-toxic spray for killing aphids? I found some, I isolated the pot but then found more in another. I don't want to spray insecticide on herbs. You could try Neem oil.
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May 19, 2014 05:03
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I use neem oil when it is in the colder months, and ladybugs in the hotter months. I will also just use water pressure and spray them off of plants.
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May 19, 2014 05:15
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If the plants aren't too tender a blast of the hose will burst the bodies of the aphids and kill them. You can also spray de by mixing a quarter cup of food grade DE in a gallon of water. It works and is more lung and eye friendly than using a duster. You gotta mix it fairly thick like that, though, using only a little won't work. Insecticidal soaps and pyrethrins work too, however none are as effective as pesticides on non-resistant pests. For me, if I can't kill it with water, BT, insecticidal soap or DE, I usually can't kill it with broad spectrum insecticide either. Think squash bugs or black widows. Boots and flyswatters tend to be best With the latter, raid spider and scorpion works, but slowly. It's faster just to carry two flyswatters, in case you miss or it runs up the one you tried to hit it with. E:FB; Got to long winded.
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May 19, 2014 05:38
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This is what I got done this weekend. The raspberry is already established and it's looking like a good harvest this year. I dunno what else to plant other than the nasturtium, which I'm planting this week. Maybe do some zucchini or cucumbers. I'm going to try to stake the squash so it doesn't overrun too much. Also did some interplanting of companion herbs and flowers and will experiment with lettuce under the brussel sprouts when they get a little bigger. I've never done pole beans or even built a teepee until today so I'm praying I actually get some growth as my luck with direct sowing isn't too hot. cheese eats mouse fucked around with this message at 05:57 on May 19, 2014 |
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May 19, 2014 05:54
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So how does the old dish soap and water spray mixture work on grape flea beetle larvae? I've recently (since last summer [northern hemisphere]) gotten into wine making and viticulture and noticed a much neglected grape vine planted by my father yeeears ago has those fuckers sucking the color out of its leaves since spring has sprung. If I have to, we have a big jug of carbaryl dust at our disposal but I'm hoping to start using fewer chemical means since I hope to start keeping bees on our property either later this summer or next spring.
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May 19, 2014 07:08
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How often do you water fruit trees and grapes that are planted in the ground? They are about 3 years old, and I am in zone 8a, northern california.
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May 19, 2014 07:52
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Fozzy The Bear posted:How often do you water fruit trees and grapes that are planted in the ground? They are about 3 years old, and I am in zone 8a, northern california. Unless it's a true dwarf or potted, after the first 2 years that a tree is transplanted it should be established enough that you don't need to overly worry about it unless you are in drought, or an overly naturally dry area. I'd give it a drink if it looks distressed or if you hadn't had any rain in over 2 weeks. Grapes I'd be looking at weekly, depending on the variety and how well established they are. I know some wine making grapes do better when kept drier but if you give table grapes water once a week (twice if it's getting in the 100s with no rain) you should be fine. Watering is tricky because it really depends on your micro climate, how much your soil retains water and how much sun your plants are getting. If it's hot, your soil is dry and your plants look distressed you've not watered enough. If the soil is always damp and you are having lots of problems with mildew, you are watering too much. After a few years you kinda get a feel for it. Anubis fucked around with this message at 12:52 on May 19, 2014 |
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May 19, 2014 12:47
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Anubis posted:
My grapes (2 each of 2 wine grapes and 2 concord) just got dropped off today. Really stumped on where best to put them for now. Made certain we ordered varieties that could withstand the brutal temperatures in the winter (-17F was the lowest since we moved here a few years back). We have about 1/4 acre to play around with that has absolutely zero irrigation run to it yet, or I can put them along the yard fence, which would be within range of the sprinklers that I have on a every-3rd-day schedule. Being more than 6000' above sea level the sun is comically bright and well over 300 sunny days a year. It's really easy to want to water too much here. Water evaporates reaaaaaaaaaaly quick from the first inch or so of soil. I also do not want to mulch them, but rather read that simply piling compost in place of mulch is a good thing. I'd go check out what others have done successfully up here in the valley, but damned if I know of anyone who's raised grapes here.
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May 20, 2014 01:06
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Fog Tripper posted:I also do not want to mulch them, but rather read that simply piling compost in place of mulch is a good thing. I've mulched my first two grapes and it seems to keep in the moisture. With the compost, just make sure you keep it 2-4 inches away from the trunk of the plant, I'm sure you already know this. I made that mistake once and don't want anyone else to do the same. Is your fence the metal wire type? The vines will really easily climb that and you won't have to build a trellis.
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May 20, 2014 01:22
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Well poo poo. I should have been tipped off by the fact that I've had three thermometers (electronic & analog alike) just break trying keep track of how hot it was inside my homemade vinyl tablecloth mini greenhouse. I'm guessing this is what heat damage looks like, eh. I think they'll live, but still. Boiled them good.
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May 20, 2014 01:55
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Fozzy The Bear posted:
Cedar post fence with wire 2x4 mesh. If I go this route I plan to make cuttings of the successful vines and propagate on trellis in future seasons. edit: Looks like at least the wind will be dying down a bit. Wish I didn't see those lows in the 30s again. 
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May 20, 2014 04:07
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Why don't you want to mulch them? Compost on top IS mulch, and arguably the best kind. It's just less common since compost is more expensive than other organic mulch materials.
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May 20, 2014 05:26
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I am speaking of wood chip mulch.
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May 20, 2014 12:19
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I'm giving soap spray a shot on the aphids, they stopped moving so that's good. There are a poo poo ton of eggs though, is this going to kill those too? And I'm correct that aphids don't fly, right? I only have two pots that had them, so I moved them as far away from the other plants as I could while I try to deal with this. If they're going to start jumping into my herbs I'd rather just toss the plants. Peppers I can buy, herbs I can't.
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May 20, 2014 12:24
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Fog Tripper posted:I am speaking of wood chip mulch. I have great results with wood chip mulch, the kind with various sizes of chips and the whole tree including twigs and leaves, often called arborist wood chips or ramial chipped wood. I'd never use bark or bagged and dyed wood mulch though. If you have compost to spare or want to purchase some then that would be even better though.
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May 20, 2014 16:30
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Fozzy The Bear posted:With the compost, just make sure you keep it 2-4 inches away from the trunk of the plant, I'm sure you already know this. I made that mistake once and don't want anyone else to do the same. Out of curiosity, why is this? I just planted a baby grape (Bay Area, CA) and was thinking I need to give it some compost. Does the proximity just rot the trunk?
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May 20, 2014 18:27
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Grand Fromage posted:I'm giving soap spray a shot on the aphids, they stopped moving so that's good. There are a poo poo ton of eggs though, is this going to kill those too? And I'm correct that aphids don't fly, right? I only have two pots that had them, so I moved them as far away from the other plants as I could while I try to deal with this. If they're going to start jumping into my herbs I'd rather just toss the plants. Peppers I can buy, herbs I can't. You will want to keep an eye out for the next week or two for further aphid incursions. I don't think the soap kills the eggs, but you're almost guaranteed to have missed some and they'll sneak back onto your plant. I battled these things and won a Pyrrhic victory the last time I tried to grow Poblano peppers; you miss a few eggs but think you got everything and stop checking, a week later its coated in aphids again from seemingly nowhere.
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May 20, 2014 22:05
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boberteatskitten posted:Out of curiosity, why is this? I just planted a baby grape (Bay Area, CA) and was thinking I need to give it some compost. Does the proximity just rot the trunk? Yes, it is the same as planting the tree or grape too deep.
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May 20, 2014 22:35
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cheese eats mouse posted:This is what I got done this weekend. 
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May 20, 2014 23:13
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Kilersquirrel posted:You will want to keep an eye out for the next week or two for further aphid incursions. I don't think the soap kills the eggs, but you're almost guaranteed to have missed some and they'll sneak back onto your plant. I battled these things and won a Pyrrhic victory the last time I tried to grow Poblano peppers; you miss a few eggs but think you got everything and stop checking, a week later its coated in aphids again from seemingly nowhere. Ugh. Do you think it's best to just get rid of the plants if I don't care about them that much? They're probably the least important ones I have.
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May 21, 2014 02:40
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Nah, just don't stop checking the plant for them. If you can't get anywhere with the soap try hitting it with some cheap pyrethrin spray, it will take care of business(and eggs too, I think) and break down after a few hours of exposure to UV light. It washes off easily with soap and warm water too. E: keep an eye out for ant mounds in your yard, they will truck aphids in when they find new "pastures" for them, so to speak. You might need to nuke an ant mound or two in the the end. Kilersquirrel fucked around with this message at 08:57 on May 21, 2014 |
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May 21, 2014 08:53
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These are all in pots on my fourth floor balcony, no ant issues. I just don't want them getting on my herbs. 
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May 21, 2014 10:28
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 A new pest approaches! Seriously though what is this thing?   These little rows of white egg sacs were neatly placed around the bottom of just about every leaf of each of my spinach plants. No obvious damage on the spinach really at all, maybe some of the most large / overgrown leaves had a little bit of clearish wilt on them but it was very small. Aphids? Should I just start throwing down the soap+water / pyrethrin same as Grand Fromage? Bummer is these area all on the bottom of each leaf, will be tedious applying it to each single one!
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May 21, 2014 14:45
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Grand Fromage posted:These are all in pots on my fourth floor balcony, no ant issues. I just don't want them getting on my herbs.
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May 21, 2014 15:32
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coyo7e posted:Just get a plastic spray bottle, fill it with water, and spray it liberally once or twice a day until the aphids all drown. They don't have tough carapaces so the spray should do plenty of damage to them physically. All right, I'll keep at it. That's what I've been doing (water/soap), I just found the nine billion eggs and ugh. Here's hoping! I may also offer cash rewards to my students to bring me live ladybugs. Anyone done garlic as a repellant? Does it actually work?
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May 21, 2014 15:37
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Grand Fromage posted:All right, I'll keep at it. That's what I've been doing (water/soap), I just found the nine billion eggs and ugh. Here's hoping! I'll go out on a limb and say that garlic as a repellant is most likely an old wive's tale. Have you looked into ordering ladybugs? Bringing a handful in won't do much, but ordering a couple hundred could. Just make sure you release them at night, after giving everything a good spray-down, because they show up thirsty and will just fly right off if you don't let them out when they can't see and CAN get an easy drink. I got lucky last season and found one ladybug with a crippled wing, so I gave her a ride to my artichokes and watched her scarf down like 10 aphids in 30 minutes. Holy poo poo do they eat a lot of them, and fast!
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May 21, 2014 15:46
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coyo7e posted:I'll go out on a limb and say that garlic as a repellant is most likely an old wive's tale. Garlic+Dried peppers soaked in water overnight makes a great repellent. The problem is that the first encounter with water will wash it off the plant, so you have to frequently re-apply it if you don't have a drop/soak system.
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May 21, 2014 15:49
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Fart Car '97 posted:Garlic+Dried peppers soaked in water overnight makes a great repellent. The problem is that the first encounter with water will wash it off the plant, so you have to frequently re-apply it if you don't have a drop/soak system.
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May 21, 2014 15:53
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I have a shitload of greenhouse whiteflies. I think they came in with some basil I bought labeled "Bio". Never going that road again. I killed all the basil. Then they killed my iceberg lettuce. Now they reside on my best cherry tomato plant, which I'm practically hosing down with water and linseed oil soap, mostly because that's what I've got available here, but I don't know if it's going to help anything, never mind that I don't even know if it's bad for the plants or anything. Google tells me using chemicals will just give me a master race of superwhiteflies. Bah.
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May 21, 2014 15:53
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coyo7e posted:It does gently caress-all about mosquitoes, I'd want to see some sources before bothering to try it. Well of course it does gently caress-all about mosquitoes, nothing reasonable does anything about mosquitoes. They are a species of animal adapted to 1)survive and 2)kill humans. Deal with it.
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May 21, 2014 16:01
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coyo7e posted:Have you looked into ordering ladybugs? Bringing a handful in won't do much, but ordering a couple hundred could. Just make sure you release them at night, after giving everything a good spray-down, because they show up thirsty and will just fly right off if you don't let them out when they can't see and CAN get an easy drink. I have but can't find anything about it, nobody here I can find has ever heard of the concept and poking around online revealed nothing. It may be possible but not anywhere I can find. I'm stuck with sprays for now. It does seem to be killing them, fortunately.
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May 21, 2014 16:15
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coyo7e posted:Nasturtiums are kind of aggressive so make sure you pick up their seed pods. They won't be a mega-hassle but you should definitely make a point to go out and pick up all those teeny pumpkin-shaped seed pods before they get a season to hang out in your beds. It's not hard to do, but you don't want to miss putting in the Definitely will do. I want some seeds for next year anyway. Adding to the garden this weekend. Probably something like this. I'll take suggestions though since i'm a newb newb 
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May 21, 2014 16:45
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