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Good enough for Willie Nelson, and good enough for Al Di Meola.
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May 19, 2014 07:47
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| # ? Jun 5, 2024 12:33 |
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Though the style isn't exactly the same I noticed my finger picking got a lot better after I started playing banjo. Learn a new instrument and new picking styles!
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May 19, 2014 16:27
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I'm pretty thrilled, my new GFS roller bridge showed up!  Only problem is it's made for bigger posts than what my LP has installed. I have one of these (more or less) and bought one of these to replace it. Is it easy enough to get an adapter, or am I going to have to install/have someone install these bushings for me?
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May 19, 2014 20:15
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Dewgy posted:I'm pretty thrilled, my new GFS roller bridge showed up!
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May 19, 2014 20:31
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I actually don't have Nashville posts, just ABR-1 screws right into the body. Was kind of hoping there might just be some kind of washer or adapter sleeve I could put on the screw to fit the new bridge, but it probably wouldn't hurt to have someone give it a once over if they're installing new posts.
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May 19, 2014 20:40
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Dewgy posted:I actually don't have Nashville posts, just ABR-1 screws right into the body. Was kind of hoping there might just be some kind of washer or adapter sleeve I could put on the screw to fit the new bridge, but it probably wouldn't hurt to have someone give it a once over if they're installing new posts. I've not been able to find any sort of an adapter to retrofit either bridge onto the other's posts as recently as a few months ago when I snagged the wrong GraphTech saddles for one of my LP's. There's no real difference between the two from a functional standpoint and, considering the cost of a decent luthier I'd guess you'd end up cheaper selling/returning the wrong bridge and buying the right one.
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May 19, 2014 21:08
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It's not exactly the wrong bridge, I knew it was a different type when I bought it. Might install it on my baritone if it'd be that much of a pain in the rear end though.
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May 19, 2014 21:16
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The bridge on my made in china Jagmaster is like one of those cheapo strat style things and the hole where the D string comes out from the back of the body has this really uneven part. Like it dips outside of the circle and is causing string breakage. Well I had .09s on for a while and tossed on an old set of .11s recently cause I had them laying around. It probably will break again at some point, so what is the best way to take care of that? I am wondering if I should just replace the whole drat bridge. Heck I am still thinking about getting a completely new guitar eventually, but tossing some cheap (but better) parts on it in the meantime might not hurt.
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May 19, 2014 23:45
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I have an LSR roller nut + locking tuners + Graphtec saddles thru-body into a Trem-King locking tremolo. Unfortunately this apparently means a capo is not an option because the strings pull from both directions no matter what and go way the hell out of tune, at least with a Shubb
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May 20, 2014 05:18
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If your locking trem has fine tuners just use them but if a simple capo is pulling you out of tune that much then you might have issues fretting normally.
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May 20, 2014 08:36
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jeez how high is your action
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May 20, 2014 11:41
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Schlieren posted:I have an LSR roller nut + locking tuners + Graphtec saddles thru-body into a Trem-King locking tremolo. Unfortunately this apparently means a capo is not an option because the strings pull from both directions no matter what and go way the hell out of tune, at least with a Shubb Lock the trem? iostream.h posted:
ABR's are slightly less stable at the posts, Nashville is slightly larger to give a bit more travel space for the saddles to move. Zuhzuhzombie!! fucked around with this message at 14:54 on May 20, 2014 |
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May 20, 2014 14:50
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I posted earlier about breaking two high E (gauge 10) strings right at the tuning peg while bending/tuning, which made a couple of you believe that it was a tiny burr in the peg. Should I take it to the shop, or just use the jeweler's files I have or some sandpaper on the hole?
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May 20, 2014 15:21
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Mr E posted:I posted earlier about breaking two high E (gauge 10) strings right at the tuning peg while bending/tuning, which made a couple of you believe that it was a tiny burr in the peg. Should I take it to the shop, or just use the jeweler's files I have or some sandpaper on the hole? I did this to my Aria SG ( the sand paper ) and it fixed the issue no problem.
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May 20, 2014 17:52
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I can't imagine the sandpaper would hurt the guitar unless you do something seriously stupid with it.
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May 20, 2014 18:10
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Can someone give a breakdown in the difference between the following three tiers/lines of Fenders/Squiers? I know that ultimately, the right choice is "whichever guitar you like best" but it'd be nice to know what the extra money gets you: Squier Vintage Modified Strat - looks like it retails for about $300 new Squier Classic Vibe Strat - looks like it retails for around $380 new Fender MIM Strat ~$500 or so new I've heard good things about the Vintage Modified and Classic Vibe lines, but I am not enough of a hardware geek to understand what goes into each line. Edit: not trying to be lazy here - looked at all three: http://www.fender.com/squier/guitars/stratocaster/vintage-modified-stratocaster-rosewood-fingerboard-vintage-blonde/ http://www.fender.com/squier/guitars/stratocaster/classic-vibe-stratocaster-60s-rosewood-fingerboard-candy-apple-red/ http://www.fender.com/guitars/stratocaster/standard-stratocaster-rosewood-fingerboard-lake-placid-blue-no-bag/ looks like the only difference i can see is that the Vintage modified has a C shape neck while the CV and MIM strats have the "modern C," different pickups for each, Basswood for the Vintage Modified with Alder for CV and MIM, and maybe different looking tuners. Am I missing something? Is there some kind of "build quality" aspect there that's not represented in the specs? If the biggest difference is just the pickups, seems like if you like all three, play the cheapest and upgrade the electronics if you feel like it. E-Money fucked around with this message at 19:49 on May 20, 2014 |
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May 20, 2014 19:21
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Vintage mod is based around vintage-style guitars with accoutrements and features that never actually appeared together standard, classic vibe is about emulating somewhat period accurate guitars, while a fender standard strat is basically really straight forward and modern in design, from the bridge saddles to the headstock logo. It really is about whatever features appeal to you and trying it out. The quality might be higher on the fender standard strat, but not by much in my experience.
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May 20, 2014 21:03
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E-Money posted:Am I missing something? Is there some kind of "build quality" aspect there that's not represented in the specs? If the biggest difference is just the pickups, seems like if you like all three, play the cheapest and upgrade the electronics if you feel like it. There is a difference in the build quality, though not really in a way that's reflected in the price. And certainly not in a way that would make a huge difference in this line of instruments. I would prefer an Alder body though, if I was buying any of them, but that's just my personal preference. I'd buy the least expensive of the three and then buy a good little tube amp.
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May 20, 2014 21:07
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E-Money posted:Can someone give a breakdown in the difference between the following three tiers/lines of Fenders/Squiers? I know that ultimately, the right choice is "whichever guitar you like best" but it'd be nice to know what the extra money gets you: Fit, finish, electronics, body wood, neck. If you don't believe that body wood has an affect on tone, then: Fit, finish, electronics, neck. If you're going to swap out the electronics no matter what: Fit, finish, body wood, neck. If fret finishing and aesthetics aren't that big of a deal to you: Electronics, body wood, neck. If the neck shape doesn't matter to you: Electronics, boody wood, fit, finish. Me, I happen to like the sound of the texas pickups in the MiM, and I'm a fan of Alder, so... done! You? Use the filters above and I'm sure the right solution will show itself. P.S. Go play them if you can. Neck can be a big deal to some people. Electronics, bridges, etc... that's changeable, but feel is hard to swap out sans going to a totally different instrument.
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May 20, 2014 21:07
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Remember the biggest difference in what you pay for is labor and transportation costs. Those costs are different in Mexico and Indonesia.
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May 20, 2014 21:09
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Thanks for the quick answers! That's pretty much what I expected - play them and get the one you like. I want to see if i like the thicker C neck vs the Modern C. I would rather have a guitar that feels and plays better than stress about the electronics for now. I'll see which neck shape I like and take it from there. I'm in the preliminary stages of thinking about getting another guitar (have an Epiphone LP already) and a Blackstar HT1 amp. Looking for a lighter body and a different fretboard radius (if i decide i like the strat style more.) It's an entirely gratuitous purchase, but it's pretty easy to justify dropping $300 on a guitar. Currently have a pretty big boner for the surf stratocaster, or the jazzmaster/jaguar (with a swapped in mustang bridge) but I need to get my hands on some guitars and fiddle around a little bit first.
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May 20, 2014 21:19
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For shits, I tuned my Bass VI up a whole step. Magically, just as I passed the half step upward mark, all the bridge buzzing completely stopped and the fret *clack* went away. I still have the stock strings on there and I wanted to see how some more tension would change the feel and noise. It was for the better (other than being in F# standard which is a bit weird and those strings probably aren't all that happy being so tight). I can play bass lines with A LOT more clarity over the stock E to E tuning. Need to get some heavier LaBella flatwounds so I don't have to crank the tension up though. Also need to get a good nut since the one on there has some ugly cuts from the factory and is made of incredibly soft plastic.
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May 20, 2014 21:34
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Vintage modified seems to be made out of basswood. The classic vibes and the MIM are made out of alder. I think the difference in price between MIM and CV is going to be labor prices in Mexico vs China and in some of the materials. But really, it seems like they are made out of the same wood. The hardware might be cheaper in the squiers. I really like my CV tele over my MIM strat. Also, if you are getting a strat, make sure you really want a tremolo bridge. It's really annoying having to deal with it later one when you really wish you had a fixed bridge.
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May 20, 2014 22:19
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Cojawfee posted:Also, if you are getting a strat, make sure you really want a tremolo bridge. It's really annoying having to deal with it later one when you really wish you had a fixed bridge. Amen. Historically I've been a one-starter-instrument and one-final-instrument kind of guy. Had I not sold my bass years ago, necessitating its replacement in the past year, that would still hold true. I'm currently planning my build-a-strat for next spring and by all that's holy it will have no trem on it.
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May 20, 2014 23:00
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Of all the floating trems I've worked on, ever, strats have eeeeeasily been the most straightforward. Even the old style 6-screw ones, they're just not very difficult to configure for normal usage. They suck at pretending to be a Floyd Rose or a Khaler or whatever, but that's what those brands are for. If you have tuning stability problems with a strat, it's either because the hardware is legitimately lovely in some way, or because it needs a better setup.
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May 21, 2014 01:37
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Agreed posted:Of all the floating trems I've worked on, ever, strats have eeeeeasily been the most straightforward. Even the old style 6-screw ones, they're just not very difficult to configure for normal usage. They suck at pretending to be a Floyd Rose or a Khaler or whatever, but that's what those brands are for. If you have tuning stability problems with a strat, it's either because the hardware is legitimately lovely in some way, or because it needs a better setup. I found that myself as well, generally speaking. My only problem with floating trems is that they are a bit more pissy when changing tunings.
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May 21, 2014 03:15
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Roller bridge update: Decided to install it on my Shadow instead of my Matsumoko, since gently caress it if I'm gonna pay to have someone install a bridge on that thing I'm gonna pay them to install a gold one. And a trem. And new tuners. I'm not sure if it's just psychosomatic or not (or if my original bridge just sucked) but this thing is awesome. Something about the entire guitar just feels better with a new bridge I guess. 
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May 21, 2014 03:53
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Are telecaster neck single-coil pick-ups traditionally a little bit dark and dull? I'm going to take my Squier CV Telecaster Custom to my trustworthy luthier some time in the near future for set-up, and was wondering if I should swap the stock neck pup. Currently, I hardly ever switch to both pick-ups nor neck pup solo, because the bridge pup has that beautiful twang and sparkle. The other two options sound lifeless, boomy and hollow. The luthier wires pick-ups himself, so I may either go with his stuff or order something, if you can recommend some more hot and clear-sounding puppies.
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May 21, 2014 15:51
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These Loving Eyes posted:Are telecaster neck single-coil pick-ups traditionally a little bit dark and dull? I don't know about other Telecasters, but this definitely describes the neck pickup that came on my MIM Standard. Eventually, I dropped a Strat pickup in and I was very happy with it.
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May 21, 2014 15:59
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I didn't like the stock pickups in my MIM Tele, swapped them with GFS Pro 63s and they are brighter and (in the bridges case since I got a different winding) hotter. I actually have a Pro 52 Tele neck pickup from GFS if you're interested. They are cheap and sound great. And by cheap I mean $35 new and I barely used it so I'd let it go for $25. e: Sample of the pickups https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q6tIzrKEgbs
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May 21, 2014 16:14
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Yeah, many stock tele neck pups are pretty blah. I have GFS fat boys in one and a twisted tele pup in the other guitar. Both are huge step ups from stock, especially the twisted tele, it sounds soo good.
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May 21, 2014 17:33
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I think the point of the tele is being able to go from a mellow rhythm to a twangy lead.
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May 21, 2014 17:46
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Pulled down a Cabronita Fender tele, with filtertrons (or Fender versions thereof) for my lesson yesterday. Really nice-feeling and playing guitar. Thinking about going back to the store and playing it through a better (louder) amp. Any other thoughts on these? It's missing a tone knob, which I'm kinda OK on, but I don't know much about fts.
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May 21, 2014 18:00
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The neck PU on my Tele is the only time I've ever changed a pickup without there being something wrong with it (other than me never wanting to use it). I like the Dimarzio True Velvet that's in there now.
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May 21, 2014 19:04
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Remulak posted:Pulled down a Cabronita Fender tele, with filtertrons (or Fender versions thereof) for my lesson yesterday. Really nice-feeling and playing guitar. Thinking about going back to the store and playing it through a better (louder) amp. Any other thoughts on these? It's missing a tone knob, which I'm kinda OK on, but I don't know much about fts. They look super sick and I want a blonde one
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May 21, 2014 20:08
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How much would you guys expect to pay for a shop to carve a new saddle for a classical? I'm getting an estimate of $100, which seems high
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May 21, 2014 20:10
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Gilgameshback posted:How much would you guys expect to pay for a shop to carve a new saddle for a classical? I'm getting an estimate of $100, which seems high That seems about right.
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May 21, 2014 20:37
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Yeah, that sounds about right in my experience. That's a bit more involved than a nut replacement, y'know?
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May 21, 2014 20:40
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I traded some video editing work for a Guild M-80. I believe it's the third redesign of the M-80, which would put it around '82 or so. I spent a lot of time in Westerly, Rhode Island, when I was younger, where Guild was located for many years, so it's a little bit sentimental. Anyway, the bridge pickup is nearly dead, though I don't know if it's a wiring issue or something wrong with the pickup itself. Heavy guitar though, for a double cutaway. I think it weighs in at around 9.5 pounds. 
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May 21, 2014 20:40
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| # ? Jun 5, 2024 12:33 |
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booshi posted:I didn't like the stock pickups in my MIM Tele, swapped them with GFS Pro 63s and they are brighter and (in the bridges case since I got a different winding) hotter. I'd jump on your offer, if the great Atlantic ocean wasn't between us. Thanks for all the feedback people! I'll post what I ended up going with when I get my guitar back.
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May 21, 2014 20:57
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