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Make sure you have a v-mount battery or two OR mains power available then, the internal battery dies after around 35 minutes. To record in log mode you'll want to go to Recorder Settings - Dynamic Range - and set it to film instead of rec709. You can view the footage on your monitor as either rec709 or film (log). I usually monitor in the same mode as I record in but viewing in 709 might be good if a client is on set.
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# ? May 1, 2014 22:34 |
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# ? May 30, 2024 10:12 |
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We have a few V lock batteries and a lanparte battery pinch that will hopefully be powering the camera, 2 TV logic monitors and a wireless monitor/transceiver for the director to not get in the way. I'm excited to use it, global shutter means no more awful tracking shots hopefully!
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# ? May 2, 2014 22:59 |
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garney posted:We have a few V lock batteries and a lanparte battery pinch that will hopefully be powering the camera, 2 TV logic monitors and a wireless monitor/transceiver for the director to not get in the way.
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# ? May 2, 2014 23:55 |
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homo punching bag posted:the BMCC has a weird power connector I see this repeated everywhere and it's not really true. I mean, it's not a V-lock, but it's a standard 2.5mm x 5.5mm DC jack, which apparently is used in laptops a lot. It gives actually quite a bit of versatility when it comes to external power, for example many universal laptop batteries are compatible with it without any adapters. For example this one: http://www.amazon.com/XTPower-10000...eywords=xtpower can be used directly with its standard cable - which is what I did with my BMCC.
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# ? May 3, 2014 10:12 |
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Yeah it's a pretty standard 12v connector. I've used a few cameras that could be powered using the same connector tip.
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# ? May 3, 2014 10:15 |
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Sorry if this is inappropriate but I'm trying to sell my used Chrosziel matte box kit on eBay (http://r.ebay.com/E0XRv5) and I don't know if I'm pricing it right. I'm hoping you guys could give me a ballpark idea so I could relist with the new amount. Everything included is: Chrosziel 411-50 4x4 Matte Box housing Chrosziel 402-26 French Flag (foldable) Two Side flags Chrosziel S1001-85 Insert Ring (fits Canon XL1 and 2) Chrosziel 206-01-S Follow Focus with .6 wide gear Chrosziel 401-43 Canon XL-2 Base Plate Two Chrosziel 402-04 4x4 Filter Holders Tiffen 4x4 Circular Polarizer Filter with Case Incidentally, if anyone here would like this kit, let me know. I'd rather sell to a goon than random eBayers.
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# ? May 6, 2014 21:13 |
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http://variety.com/2014/film/news/t...eakingnewsalert loving god dammit, Gordon Willis died and it's seriously bumming me out.
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# ? May 19, 2014 06:24 |
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EnsGDT posted:http://variety.com/2014/film/news/t...eakingnewsalert Yeah this is a huge bummer Its crazy to think about what the craft would have been like without him. Gunna have to watch some of his stuff this weekend.
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# ? May 20, 2014 16:14 |
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I'm watching Moneyball and I noticed this thing they're doing where they move the subject in and out of focus during dramatic moments, almost achieving a kind of handheld effect. They'll focus on Pitt's character then shift the focus behind him while he's still predominately in frame. I know other movies do this too, I just kind of picked up on this while watching now. Is there a name for this effect? I don't know if I'm being too vague or not so hopefully you know what I'm trying to articulate.
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# ? May 24, 2014 23:55 |
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Assuming the camera isn't moving, then it's just a focus pull. Fairly standard technique. Hard to master.
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# ? May 24, 2014 23:59 |
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thehustler posted:Assuming the camera isn't moving, then it's just a focus pull. Fairly standard technique. Hard to master. Yup, camera was stationary for the most part. Thanks, was curious because they seemed to pull it off really well and it added a lot to the mood
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# ? May 25, 2014 00:03 |
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Can someone direct me to a good explanation of different lenses and what they do? I really want to get in to this and plan on buying a 7d in the near future. Edit: is a 7d even the way to go? Budget is approximately $1000. Is a $500 camera with some lenses a better option? ButtWolf fucked around with this message at 22:54 on May 25, 2014 |
# ? May 25, 2014 22:24 |
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jimcunningham posted:Can someone direct me to a good explanation of different lenses and what they do? I really want to get in to this and plan on buying a 7d in the near future. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_LphY7GxTgU There are 4 parts in total, really great stuff.
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# ? May 25, 2014 23:19 |
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thehustler posted:Assuming the camera isn't moving, then it's just a focus pull. Fairly standard technique. Hard to master. I think he's describing racking focus. Pulling focus generally refers to just following the subject as it moves so it stays sharp.
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# ? May 26, 2014 01:05 |
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Awesome. Thanks much. I think ive decide to go with T3i and 50mm and a 55-250mm lens. Should be around $800.
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# ? May 26, 2014 04:45 |
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jimcunningham posted:Awesome. Thanks much. I think ive decide to go with T3i and 50mm and a 55-250mm lens. Should be around $800. This is an excellent choice, I learned how to shoot on this gear.
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# ? May 26, 2014 06:18 |
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jimcunningham posted:Awesome. Thanks much. I think ive decide to go with T3i and 50mm and a 55-250mm lens. Should be around $800. Make sure to take crop factor into account when picking a lens. 50mm on a T3i will be an 80mm, etcetera. Also, pay attention to the lowest f-stop on your lenses. That telephoto is 4.0-5.6, which might be high for what you're looking for, not sure what your goals are though. That's mostly an outdoor, generous light lens. If you wanna do indoor, normal-or-low light stuff, might wanna look for a 1.4 or a 2.8. I'm a big fan of the Nikkor 28mm f2.8 AI-S. You'll need an adapter if you're gonna use it on you Canon body though. No lens is perfect for everybody, find the lens best suited to what you wanna shoot. If you can describe what your goals are, we can help you with a better-suited recommendation.
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# ? May 26, 2014 06:18 |
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Bugblatter posted:I think he's describing racking focus. Pulling focus generally refers to just following the subject as it moves so it stays sharp. Today I learned something! Thanks.
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# ? May 26, 2014 10:37 |
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jimcunningham posted:Awesome. Thanks much. I think ive decide to go with T3i and 50mm and a 55-250mm lens. Should be around $800. Unless you only ever want to shoot portraits and birds, you need a wider lens. Go to http://www.keh.com and pick up a t3i or t4i body, an 18-55 kit zoom (any of them are fine, they're all under a hundred bucks) and a 50 f1.8. If you want to stretch your budget a little, the 35mm f2 is a better "normal" prime for your camera.
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# ? May 26, 2014 15:28 |
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Well ultimately, I want to shoot films I write. I realize this is not optimal but I have to start somewhere. Im sure ill be shooting a mix of indoor and outdoor.
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# ? May 26, 2014 16:55 |
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My students just finished their first short films, shooting on t3is with 18-55mm lenses and it turned out fine. I'm writing a feature now I plan on shooting on a t3i with a 50mm, 28mm, and the 18-55. May rent a 5d since I have a stuck pixel but the cameras are great and are perfect for getting started
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# ? May 26, 2014 19:29 |
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I went to the Vincent Laforet Directing Motion workshop. It was pretty good, I learned some things and got to play with equipment I don't normally have access to. I recommend it if you have a spare few hundred bucks and/or can get your job to pay for things like that.
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# ? Jun 4, 2014 04:10 |
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Hey there. Stepping out from my voyeuristic reading fits to speak up again. I wanted to pick all of your brains. Been shooting on DSLRs and borrowed/provided gear (c300, FS700, Panasonic 500, etc) and I currently took a pretty high paying full-time day job to stock up on camera gear for two shorts and a music video that I'll be shooting in several months. Do you guys have suggestions for cameras to be aiming to get in my post 5D world? Been eyeballing some black magic cams for the 4K RAW capture, since dicking around with the ML RAW on my 5D acted as an intro into me experimenting with RAW in my spare time. Love to hear what you guys think on the matter. Edit: I've been snooping around the BMC Ursa. It looks like my best option at my price point. Thoughts? sophomorehoffman fucked around with this message at 16:14 on Jun 4, 2014 |
# ? Jun 4, 2014 13:40 |
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If you need the cameras at any particular time, I wouldn't go with something unreleased from Blackmagic. They have a history of shipping literally almost a year late, generally with massive issues on the first run of units. If you're stocking up for a few specific projects, why aren't you renting? Are these going to be super long shoots or something?
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# ? Jun 4, 2014 18:31 |
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I do so much personal shooting and spec shooting that I've been tending to use personal gear and save rental costs, so that's why I'm hunting for an affordable raw solution. I do a lot of test shoots and personal short films for festival circuits, so I'd love to have the gear on hand to play with. I definitely realized that the Ursa is unreleased and I don't want to chance anything, so I may just go with a released BMC cam. If this was for a client I'd rent for sure, but its a personal music video and a short film that my wife wrote and is directing, so I'd like to own if I could. I think I'm going to tackle the music video in July with my Mk II and a friend's Mk III with ML raw, but I want a "real" raw solution for the short in September. We are boarding an animatic for pitching the short, though, so we may could get sponsorship or backing from someone with access to gear too. Just weighing my options.
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# ? Jun 4, 2014 18:50 |
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I personally wouldn't go for any of their 4k solutions until they get the kinks ironed out - fixed pattern noise is still an issue on their 4k sensor and it even appeared on the Ursas they demo'd at NAB The original BMCC is still a great camera though, never had issues with mine.
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# ? Jun 4, 2014 19:24 |
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Ah! I had no idea about that. Well, 4K is definitely not a must by any means, but I would like to get into the raw workflow more than I have been just for the experience and flexibility. I hear the C100 is essentially worthless when compared to the C300, BMCC, Mk III, and FS700. Is that the case? BMCC is definitely where I'm leaning. Not having had the chance to physically play with one, how many add-ons and such are necessary to hit the ground running? Having shot with RED EPIC, and ACed with a Scarlet and One, I know that the modules are where the beef of the price lies, is it the same way with the BMCC? If not than the price point is far more attractive.
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# ? Jun 4, 2014 20:10 |
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The main thing about getting a BMCC running is some v-mount batteries (if you don't do events just one is fine) and SSD's. Beyond those and lenses, you don't need anything else. Of course you can get a monitor, rails, FF, and whatever else you want, but the system really isn't designed for additional modules.
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# ? Jun 4, 2014 20:14 |
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Very nice! I already have rails and follow focus, so that's no biggie. SSDs seem like the only real money sink part, but apart from that it all sounds pretty good. Thanks for all of the input! I'm sure once I pull the trigger I'll be on here asking a million questions again. Edit: The 4K BMCC has that great Super 35MM sensor though... when recommending shying away from their 4K solutions would any kinks persist even if dropped from 4K to 2.5K in their 4K model? Does it even allow you to do that? I'm just weighing the two sensors out sophomorehoffman fucked around with this message at 21:44 on Jun 4, 2014 |
# ? Jun 4, 2014 20:43 |
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Get the MFT version and a Metabones Nikon to BMCC speedbooster. Gives you a roughly super-35 equivalent plus a couple extra stops of light and declicks your aperture. This is assuming you want to use Nikon glass, which you should because it adapts to anything (except PL).
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# ? Jun 5, 2014 00:41 |
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The 4k sensor doesn't do a windowed 2.5k mode. You can record to ProRes at 2k, probably can't do raw in 2k (but you can resize in Resolve anyways). And at any rate, it's a different sensor than the 2.5k version altogether. Global shutter, less dynamic range.
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# ? Jun 5, 2014 04:32 |
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Chitin posted:Get the MFT version and a Metabones Nikon to BMCC speedbooster. Gives you a roughly super-35 equivalent plus a couple extra stops of light and declicks your aperture. This is assuming you want to use Nikon glass, which you should because it adapts to anything (except PL). I've been using Nikkor lenses on my 5D body as of late, but I do have it all converted to EF mount with quite a few Canon lenses as well. Would you recommend making a move to MFT? I've not ever weighed the pros and cons of a shift like that. I've used the MetaBones speedboosters with the FS700 before though. Cool stuff.
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# ? Jun 5, 2014 13:06 |
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sophomorehoffman posted:I've been using Nikkor lenses on my 5D body as of late, but I do have it all converted to EF mount with quite a few Canon lenses as well. Would you recommend making a move to MFT? I've not ever weighed the pros and cons of a shift like that. I've used the MetaBones speedboosters with the FS700 before though. Cool stuff. The move to MFT is to facilitate the Speedbooster things. Since you can adapt basically any lens to MFT there isn't much of a downside other than sensor size, and that's debatable.
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# ? Jun 5, 2014 18:59 |
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Gotcha. Thanks for the info! Also, I adore your avatar picture homo punching bag !
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# ? Jun 5, 2014 19:16 |
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Just be aware that there isn't currently a Canon to MFT speed booster, though there's a rumor that they're working on it. EOS glass doesn't concert easily because it has an electronic aperture, meaning that you either have to have an electronic adapter as well as a physical one or else put an aperture in the adaptor as well (which causes heavy vignetting.) If you're heavily invested in L glass, it may not be worth it to make the switch - otherwise, switching to MFT opens up a whole world of inexpensive manual lenses.
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# ? Jun 6, 2014 20:07 |
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I have two L lenses, so I'm not bothered by the idea of switching. Many thanks, guys! I was pretty ignorant to the world of non-EF lenses but now your suggestions have led me to really dig deep into researching other lens types.
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# ? Jun 6, 2014 22:08 |
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MFT has a lot of good lenses and some pretty awesome fast ones made by Voigtlander, but if you ever want to change to a larger sensor your lenses are unusable. I've heard Zeiss ZF.2 lenses are the best bang-for-buck lenses you can get and should cover most of your needs until you're on something with a decent budget. They're made for Nikon so the focus is 'backwards', but you get a manual aperture and the lens design is the same as what's used in the Zeiss Compact Primes, just without the cinema-focused lens construction and fewer aperture blades(14 vs. 9). Rokinon's decent, too, and there's a lot of vintage Nikon and Canon FD lenses that can be had for cheap. I know quite a few people shooting on Red Ones and Epics with old Nikon and Rokinon primes. If you wanna geek out more over lenses, I like Duclos' blog, though he doesn't update too frequently. http://matthewduclos.wordpress.com/ Anyone have any other good reading material regarding lenses?
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# ? Jun 7, 2014 05:27 |
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For bang for buck, I really like these Rokinon T1.5 lenses http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1016624-REG/rokinon_super_fast_t1_5_cine.html They have declicked aperture, geared focus and aperture rings, are cine-size so they'll fit properly in rigs, and are very nice to pull focus with. No electronics though, but drat cheap. Oh yeah, they come in Canon EF, Sony E, Sony A and Nikon F-mounts. Greenplastic fucked around with this message at 14:37 on Jun 7, 2014 |
# ? Jun 7, 2014 14:34 |
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I'm looking for an inexpensive jib/crane that's light enough to pack amongst my other grip gear and get hauled up a hill. I've liked Kessler products in the part, so I'm looming at the Traveler and KC-Lite. From what I can see, the Traveler is significantly more expensive and lacks the important ability to control camera tilt. What am I missing here? What's the advantage of the Traveler?
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# ? Jun 20, 2014 00:36 |
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# ? May 30, 2024 10:12 |
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Chitin posted:I'm looking for an inexpensive jib/crane that's light enough to pack amongst my other grip gear and get hauled up a hill. I've liked Kessler products in the part, so I'm looming at the Traveler and KC-Lite. From what I can see, the Traveler is significantly more expensive and lacks the important ability to control camera tilt. What am I missing here? What's the advantage of the Traveler? The aviator jib gets good reviews: http://www.aviatorcameragear.com/product/the-aviator-travel-jib-mag-alloy-kit/
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# ? Jun 20, 2014 16:17 |