|
Throatwarbler posted:2012+ Charger/300 Thanks for the suggestions. I see there are a handful of RLs in Dallas, I'll go check one out. And I've test driven a Buick Lacross. Seemed nice enough, but I'm only 50. Maybe I'll get one when I'm 60. And I should test drive a MKZ.
|
#
?
May 25, 2014 18:58
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 12, 2024 01:46 |
|
|
Aquatic Giraffe posted:BFC questions for this thread: 1. Dealers make most of their money on financing and warranties and other bullshit. You can absolutely come out better off making them think that you aren't going to immediately pay the entire thing off and that you need the worst possible loan terms ever as long as the pre-interest price looks nicer. They want you to finance, why give away your hand? 2. Depends what you're trading in but I think you usually do better selling private party or at least not as a trade in.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2014 19:22
|
|
|
Aquatic Giraffe posted:BFC questions for this thread: 1)Don't mention that you are looking to pay outright until after negotiation. The dealerships make a lot of money off of financing and they won't be willing to negotiate as much if you are taking away a money stream from them. 2)Definitely go to a couple of places to check the value on the car. It's a good bargaining chip to increase the value of your current car. I did this with my old car and managed to squeeze out almost $2,000 more out of it by going to Carmax and having them appraise it.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2014 19:25
|
|
|
Yeah, don't give away the cash thing until you have a price. If you can get 0%, it may be better to finance also.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2014 20:17
|
|
|
The trade-in is an 05 Hyundai Tucson with ~75k miles and a pretty beat up interior. We'll probably end up getting $7k out of it, $8k if we can drive up the price through pitting dealers against each other. Should we just use the trade-in as our downpayment and pretend to finance the rest? We both have good credit so we can't fake them out with a really bad APR since we both qualify for pretty good rates (my current car is financed at ~1%). We're going to buy the car in about three or four weeks so we've got some time to do some pretty thorough research on TrueCar and such. We don't have our hearts set on a Forester, so if we can get a really good price on an equivalent car like a CR-V or RAV4 from Honda or Toyota we might just go with that instead. It'll give us more leverage since we can seriously just walk out and actually go buy a car somewhere else instead of just faking it.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2014 20:28
|
|
|
Aquatic Giraffe posted:Assuming we don't hate it on a test drive, looks like we're getting a Subaru Forester. The salt chat from earlier in this thread has me a little worried about the Subaru since we're in the mid-west where it snows a lot. One guy made the claim and two of us asked about it and no one has said a word about it. So I guess I wouldn't be too worried and just take care of your car.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2014 21:24
|
|
|
Yeah, wash your car regularly (when it is over 32) and you'll be fine. it isn't an early 00 mazda or 90s honda.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2014 21:49
|
|
|
The one problem with trade-in is that once you mention you have one, it becomes difficult to tell how much you're actually getting for the trade-in, because you're also negotiating on the price of the new car. Maybe they tell you they're giving you $7500, but at the same time they're raising their bottom price on the car you're buying by $500. Did you get a deal? You might do a lot of research and know what "a really good price" on the new car might be, but that's not perfect insight into how much that particular salesman and dealership wants to move that particular car on that particular day. This is why I always advise people to do these things strictly in this order: A) negotiate on price of new car. If they ask about trade-ins, say "maybe" but refuse to identify what car you're trading in, OR commit to the trade-in at all. Stick to your guns and insist on negotiating the final, includes-everything price. B) negotiate on the value of the trade-in. If they won't give you your negotiated price on the new car less a value you're happy with on the trade-in, you can just keep your old car and sell it private-party. C) only after A and B are done, and you have exact dollar amounts for both things, discuss payment options. Do not negotiate financing on the basis of "monthly payment" - you want to know 1) length of the loan, in months 2) down payment, if any and C) actual APR of the loan. Don't let them tack on additional financing fees. Another important point here is that you should find out if there are any incentives you're passing up by financing - often a new car has factory incentives of either "cash on the hood" or a premium interest rate, but not both. It's tough to stick to this policy and some dealerships just won't play ball. I also advise taking at least two days to buy a car - on day 1 you look at several cars, do your test drives, etc., and take notes. Insist that you can't buy today. Make up a reason if you need to, maybe you need to go over your finances or you need to arrange parking or you need to discuss things with your spouse, whatever. Then on Day 2 (which isn't necessarily the next day), after you've used your notes to check for reviews on the car, competing offers, and slept on it, you can go back in and negotiate on price. That tactic helps to show the dealer/salesman that you're perfectly willing to walk away if you're not happy with the deal, and suggests you may be looking at other cars at other dealerships. It's not a perfect strategy but I suspect it often gives a little bump to your negotiating position. Finally: try to arrange to be buying your car at the very end of the month. That's when salesmen are trying to make quotas or hit a sales incentive (they often get rewards for selling x cars a month), and that's when dealerships are trying to get rid of inventory so that they can take delivery of more new cars the next month. This is also not a surefire thing of course, but I think it can make some small difference.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2014 06:19
|
|
|
WorldTravelerX posted:Thanks for the suggestions. You can also get Lexus IS in that price range used with cooled seats.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2014 16:33
|
|
|
Aquatic Giraffe posted:BFC questions for this thread: Some states net the amounts to reduce your sales tax. I would still use Carmax to get a floor trade in value. If you know what car you want I usually just email a ton of dealers and find the cheapest, then I go lowball the poo poo out of them until the sales manager caves to stop having to deal with me. Some other tricks, get your trade in keys back before you do the four square bullshit or they will try to lose them. You should also check to see if other regions have better promotions on the car you want. NY had some sweet plug in prius promotion that the rest of the country did not get last year.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2014 20:16
|
|
|
Elephanthead posted:
If any dealer tries this bullshit, call the police for a stolen vehicle, then leave that dealership and never come back. "Losing" a customers keys is disrespectful of a customer who wants to buy a product from you.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2014 20:27
|
|
|
TrinityOfDeath posted:If any dealer tries this bullshit, call the police for a stolen vehicle, then leave that dealership and never come back. "Losing" a customers keys is disrespectful of a customer who wants to buy a product from you. When I was car shopping for myself earlier this year the Nissan dealership tried to pull that poo poo on me. The guy kept "forgetting" to give me my keys back. One of the reasons I'm not looking at the Nissan Rogue this time around despite it fitting what we're looking for is because I don't want to have to deal with those shitheads again.
|
|
#
?
May 28, 2014 00:05
|
|
|
Aquatic Giraffe posted:When I was car shopping for myself earlier this year the Nissan dealership tried to pull that poo poo on me. The guy kept "forgetting" to give me my keys back. One of the reasons I'm not looking at the Nissan Rogue this time around despite it fitting what we're looking for is because I don't want to have to deal with those shitheads again. sorry , what is the trick that they try to pull here?
|
|
#
?
May 28, 2014 03:39
|
|
|
Barfoid 3 posted:sorry , what is the trick that they try to pull here? Just get you to stay, buy a car, make a bad decision, trick you, etc.
|
|
#
?
May 28, 2014 03:56
|
|
|
Barfoid 3 posted:sorry , what is the trick that they try to pull here? Some people are pushovers and are too non-confrontational to make a scene. Not that they don't see right through it, but they're too timid to regain control of the conversation or jump right up and demand their loving keys right loving now. So they'll stay seated across from the silver-tongued salesman while the service techs that performed the trade-in appraisal continue to search for the keys. goku chewbacca fucked around with this message at 04:26 on May 28, 2014 |
|
#
?
May 28, 2014 04:22
|
|
|
Hoping a general auto sales scenario / question will be accepted here. I like to think think I'm fairly savvy when it comes to buying vesicles, but I'm in a scenario now that I'm not quite sure how to approach. I have a 2013 Tacoma that's killing me on MPG and I want to downsize to a compact SUV or a Sedan. Currently I'm looking at Rav4's which are in a comfortable price range and are currently at 0% APR. Unfortunately, the 0% APR deal ends next week so I'm feeling a bit rushed. Here's my question... I know that dealerships are going to want my truck, Tacoma's are in crazy demand right now and a super new low mileage used one is going to be as good as gold to any dealership. That being said, how would you negotiate? I know the typical school of thought would be to arrive at the price of the Rav4 before i even mentioned that I had a trade in. On the other hand though, I know that any dealership would much rather replace any Rav4 on their lot with my Tacoma, so maybe it's worth bringing up my trade in order to get them lower on the price of the Rav? I guess my best case scenario is this, if I can get a $30k Rav4 down to $26-27k I think i'd be pretty close to a strait up trade on my Tacoma (KBB puts it at 26.5k trade in value). I've already had one dealership tell me that they'll find a way to get me into "a Rav4" on a strait up trade, but I don't want just any Rav, I want my rear end on leather seats! I know that BEST thing to do would be to sell the Truck privately, but since i'm still making payments on it, the 0% apr window on the Rav's is closing, and and it would probably take forever to sell... i'm thinking trade in is the way to go.
|
|
#
?
May 28, 2014 16:56
|
|
|
Sointenly posted:Hoping a general auto sales scenario / question will be accepted here. I hate to tell this to you, but it sounds like you're falling for all the marketing that car dealerships put out there. They'll tell you your used car is in demand so you'll get a premium price (probably false) and that current incentives are unlikely to continue (certainly false), just so you'll go into the dealership and give them a chance to sell you a car. The best way to negotiate is to get a lowball price from Carmax to understand your price floor, try to sell your car on Craigslist, and meanwhile negotiate with all the dealerships' internet sales managers in your area for the best price on the Rav4. As soon as you sell the Tacoma, pull the trigger on the Rav4.
|
|
#
?
May 28, 2014 18:29
|
|
|
spwrozek posted:Just get you to stay, buy a car, make a bad decision, trick you, etc. Some of the worst ones even hold the keys hostage, as in "you get your keys back when you sign to buy the new car" or "you don't need these anymore because you're driving home in your brand new car!"
|
|
#
?
May 28, 2014 21:55
|
|
|
Toyota is straight up gonna extend that 0% APR. Or they will offer it in a couple months again. The RAV-4 isn't a good enough car with enough demand to not put incentive funds on it.
|
|
#
?
May 28, 2014 21:55
|
|
|
swenblack posted:FWIW, low mileage 2013 Tacomas start at $25k at the dealerships here in DC, and there's a fuckton of them for sale. Also, a maxxed out Rav4 costs $28k, including navigation and "leather" seats. Finally, although the 0% interest rate promotion ends soon, rest assured, a new one will start the day after that one ends. We're getting to the end of the model year. Don't let the artificial deadlines create a sense of urgency that isn't warranted. All fair points, thank you. I'm reluctant to sell privately because the truck is only about 2/3's paid off. I've never tried to sell a vehicle that was still under a loan and the idea of it doesnt sound fun at all. I know if I was a private buyer, especially if I were looking to pay $20k+ i'd want a title before I handed over any cash. For "falling for the marketing" well, i suppose I am but in this case I think it's almost to my benefit. We have great credit and I've kind of gotten used to only accepting 0% APR offers. If we didnt get 0%, we'd probably forget the whole thing. I know you mentioned that the offer will come back, but all that adds up to is more miles on my Taco and more chance for scratching and more wear and tear on it. Regarding Carmax, I actually went yesterday and got an appraisal. You called it though, they offered $24k which is a few grand under what a fair retail price would be. Sointenly fucked around with this message at 23:10 on May 28, 2014 |
|
#
?
May 28, 2014 23:06
|
|
|
I'm helping a friend look for a car. She wants a Mazda RX8. I'm speaking to someone selling this 2007:    He wants $11,500 for it. We may be able to talk him down some. What are some things I should look out for with an RX8? Is that anywhere near a reasonable price? e: 70k miles, says it runs perfectly, automatic, I think its a touring, just got a new battery. Cacafuego fucked around with this message at 23:28 on May 28, 2014 |
|
#
?
May 28, 2014 23:23
|
|
|
Sointenly posted:I'm reluctant to sell privately because the truck is only about 2/3's paid off. I've never tried to sell a vehicle that was still under a loan and the idea of it doesnt sound fun at all. I know if I was a private buyer, especially if I were looking to pay $20k+ i'd want a title before I handed over any cash. Is your loan with your own bank? If it is, the way you sell a car with a lean still on it is you meet the buyer, negotiate a price etc., and then the two of you go to your bank. He pays your bank, the bank hands over the title, you deposit any additional money you got from the transaction, and you both are able to walk away with good assurance that the transaction was clean. If you have some kind of dealer or manufacturer based financing, that's slightly more challenging to do.
|
|
#
?
May 28, 2014 23:29
|
|
|
Cacafuego posted:I'm helping a friend look for a car. She wants a Mazda RX8. I'm speaking to someone selling this 2007: Make sure the oil has been changed every 3000 miles. Make sure the trans/diff fluid were changed every 30k miles. Make sure spark plugs/coils/wires were changed every 30k-35k miles. For the automatic in particular, make sure the person revved the poo poo out of it every day or every other day. Mazda made a mistake where the transmission changes gears like a normal transmission. But rotary engines need to be run to the red line at least once every other day. If they didn't the engine could have a lot of carbon buildup and break.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2014 01:53
|
|
|
You really don't want an automatic RX8. It's just a terrible, terrible match for the rotary engine. And like HolyDukeNukem mentioned the poor match caused all sorts of serious reliability issues. A lot of automatic RX8s have had to have their engines replaced due to it. The manual is way better for a rotary car that needs the snot rung out of it on a daily basis to stay healthy. Plus, if you aren't wringing that sucker out to 9k on a regular basis then I don't really know why you're driving an RX8.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2014 02:00
|
|
|
Leperflesh posted:If you have some kind of dealer or manufacturer based financing, that's slightly more challenging to do. Sometime a little bit, sometimes a whole lot. He should just call the noteholder and tell them what's up. Many of them will allow the transaction to take place at (insert big national bank chain here) to act as their agent.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2014 02:03
|
|
|
HolyDukeNukem posted:Make sure the oil has been changed every 3000 miles. Make sure the trans/diff fluid were changed every 30k miles. Make sure spark plugs/coils/wires were changed every 30k-35k miles. For the automatic in particular, make sure the person revved the poo poo out of it every day or every other day. Mazda made a mistake where the transmission changes gears like a normal transmission. But rotary engines need to be run to the red line at least once every other day. If they didn't the engine could have a lot of carbon buildup and break. Man, that's a lot of TLC needed. I may have to talk to my friend about her choice in vehicles. Guinness posted:You really don't want an automatic RX8. It's just a terrible, terrible match for the rotary engine. And like HolyDukeNukem mentioned the poor match caused all sorts of serious reliability issues. A lot of automatic RX8s have had to have their engines replaced due to it. She'd prefer a manual. This one just happened to be available and owned by someone I think I'd trust to be a careful driver that takes care of their cars (my judgement may be wrong). Thanks for the advice! e: she wants it because she's a girl and "ooo I like the way that one looks". I may not be successful talking her out of it. For reference, her current car is a 99 beetle and she wanted another one (that I successfully talked her out of) because "cute". Cacafuego fucked around with this message at 02:19 on May 29, 2014 |
|
#
?
May 29, 2014 02:16
|
|
|
Cacafuego posted:Man, that's a lot of TLC needed. I may have to talk to my friend about her choice in vehicles. She should not buy an automatic RX-8. Full stop. You can't even rev the poo poo out of them on the auto like you need to.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2014 02:26
|
|
|
Cacafuego posted:Man, that's a lot of TLC needed. I may have to talk to my friend about her choice in vehicles. It's a sports car engine, and a specialty one at that, they need more care than your average car. They are a lot of fun if you keep up with the maintenance, but it doesn't sound like she would be interested in that.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2014 02:31
|
|
|
New car chat: I'm seriously considering buying a 2014 Kia Forte Koup SX come July. Does anyone here have any strong opinions on them? A 10 year warranty on a turbocharged coupe seems too good to be true. I'm also considering the Chevy Sonic LTZ Turbo, because it comes out to be about $3k less, and from what I've heard it's a fun tiny go kart of a car, or if I decide I want to sacrifice all fun for economy's sake, a Ford Focus SE. Right now I drive a 1991 Chevy S10 Blazer, so all three will be a massive improvement in fuel economy and maintenance, I'm just hoping to grab something that is as fun on tarmac as the blazer is on wet grass and mud. Any other cars I should be looking at in the sub $25k range?
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2014 02:52
|
|
|
It's at the very upper end of your range, but you'd be doing yourself a disservice if you don't at least test drive the Subaru BRZ/Scion FRS. Though it'd be a bit less practical, but more fun (IMO). Guinness fucked around with this message at 03:00 on May 29, 2014 |
|
#
?
May 29, 2014 02:57
|
|
|
If you like the Focus, but want something more fun, you can easily get a Fiesta/Focus ST for well under $25k
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2014 03:09
|
|
|
thelightguy posted:New car chat: I'm seriously considering buying a 2014 Kia Forte Koup SX come July. Does anyone here have any strong opinions on them? A 10 year warranty on a turbocharged coupe seems too good to be true. Buy a Fiesta ST.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2014 03:42
|
|
|
thelightguy posted:New car chat: I'm seriously considering buying a 2014 Kia Forte Koup SX come July. Does anyone here have any strong opinions on them? A 10 year warranty on a turbocharged coupe seems too good to be true. The Kia turbos are a lot slower and less fun to drive than they look on paper. I'd have a hard time recommending them. If you want a turbo go-kart economy car, try and find a Fiesta with the 3 cylinder turbo engine, it should be extremely cheap (~$15k ish), have bluetooth and play mp3s from a USB, and be fun to drive in an econobox sort of way. If you really want to spend $25k and have a coupe, that'll get you a nicely loaded V6 Premium Mustang, Focus ST or Fiesta ST, or Scion FRS.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2014 03:48
|
|
|
Twerk from Home posted:If you want a turbo go-kart economy car, try and find a Fiesta with the 3 cylinder turbo engine, it should be extremely cheap (~$15k ish), have bluetooth and play mp3s from a USB, and be fun to drive in an econobox sort of way. Oooh, I didn't know those had come over to the US. As long as I can get cruise control for the long drives, that sounds like it could be a blast.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2014 04:14
|
|
|
Cacafuego posted:Man, that's a lot of TLC needed. I may have to talk to my friend about her choice in vehicles. The RX-8* may be the only car that requires more diligent routine maintenance than a Mk.IV Beetle. Just let her get another Beetle. The new one is relatively reliable, and by the end of life most of the kinks had been worked out of the older one. You've already been warned against the automatic RX-8 but in addition to all the legitimately horrible things and inherent unreliability, you're already starting off down on power compared to the manual. Look for a Beetle in stick with the 2.5L 5-cylinder for the most reliable Beetle. *FD RX-7 is worse
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2014 13:56
|
|
|
thelightguy posted:Oooh, I didn't know those had come over to the US. As long as I can get cruise control for the long drives, that sounds like it could be a blast. Fiat 500 Turbo or Abarth should also be on your list.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2014 13:57
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Sometime a little bit, sometimes a whole lot. Good advice but i'm not sure i'll need it anymore. After running some numbers yesterday i'm not sure that I want to give up the truck after all. Fuel savings between a Rav4 and a Tacoma would be around $800/year. Yea that's not pocket change but it's not exactly life changing either. Not to mention, even under a best case scenario where I traded strait up for a Rav4, i'd still be paying Tax and License on it at around $2k (we don't have that super sensible trade in credit here in CA). So right off the bat it would take me 2.5 years of gas savings just to make back the tax and license.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2014 16:20
|
|
|
I really need some used car buying advice. I'm talking to a guy about a car who is under huge time pressure because he's moving next week, and has already told me that I'm the only interested buyer and he will trade it in to a dealer on Saturday if he can't work something out with me, and the best trade-in offer he's gotten. I offered $500 over trade in, and he told me that's not enough of a premium to warrant dealing with a private party transaction. He also told me the dealer that he's going to trade it into, and I'm wondering if I go see that dealer the same day he trades it in and offer to take the car off their hands what I could expect to negotiate over what they paid for it.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2014 17:08
|
|
|
Twerk from Home posted:I really need some used car buying advice. I'm talking to a guy about a car who is under huge time pressure because he's moving next week, and has already told me that I'm the only interested buyer and he will trade it in to a dealer on Saturday if he can't work something out with me, and the best trade-in offer he's gotten. A couple of grand at a minimum. The dealer is going to want to make a buck on the transaction, and clearly you want the car enough to track them down to try to buy it. Offer the guy a better offer if you really want the car.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2014 17:40
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 12, 2024 01:46 |
|
|
skipdogg posted:A couple of grand at a minimum. The dealer is going to want to make a buck on the transaction, and clearly you want the car enough to track them down to try to buy it. Thanks. I want it, but I'm shocked at how much the dealer is offering him for it. The car is a 2011 Prius 3, with cloth and no backup camera or any options, even the steel wheels. All of the TMV and truecar estimations say it should be worth $16,500-ish private party and $14k trade in, but he's got a dealer offer for $16k so maybe I'm missing something. Also I dont see how a dealer is going to manage to sell a 2011 Prius with no options for $19k when you can buy a new one with a touchscreen & backup camera and 0% incentive APR for $23k locally. Twerk from Home fucked around with this message at 18:22 on May 29, 2014 |
|
#
?
May 29, 2014 18:18
|
|