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Kazy posted:Speaking of, I'm using HIPS and honestly it doesn't help much. I'm using it for standard supports in MakerWare, should I just make the HIPS parts solid? As it is, supported curves turn out so badly I may as well have not used any support at all. I never had a problem on our 2x with makerware's supports. If the part has super fine details then the support tends to break it away as it dissolves aka falls away. For sturdier stuff (like a hilbert cube) I just had it generate support and it worked great. If you flash with sailfish you can run gcode from other slicers I believe. Simplify3D can also export directly to x3g, and has editable supports so you can get your support structure exactly how you want it. That said there are certain instances where it's better to a 2nd model file for the support. Such as on flat surfaces that you want a smooth finish without any effects of bridging, etc.
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May 27, 2014 23:31
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MickRaider posted:I still don't know why people hate on multiple extruders. Dissolvable support is awesome. Exactly, it's silly until it isn't... like when you need the support. On the argument against them, the Replicator 1 dual took a little bit of work to get them both level. Once you got that going and overcame the other struggles of owning a Makerbot it was awesome until the mainboard broke.
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May 27, 2014 23:42
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MickRaider posted:I only picked printers at or below 1k (Except the ultimaker) The UM2 produces phenomenal parts. Like, the normal resolution is something retarded like 0.06mm layers. That said, I've seen the UM2 go for several hours to produce a part that would take most printers an hour tops. I own an M2. It's all stock, and it's super loving reliable. It's my go-to printer for "I have a 45 hour print job and it can't fail". I've had 75 hour print jobs (8x9x6.5" part, nearly 4lbs plastic) that JustWorked(tm). It's favorite layer height is 0.2mm, and I can interchangeably use ABS or PLA. Support from the company is as good as it seems. It's currently in competition with my UM1 for print quality ... the UM1 does thinner layer height with less drama, but the M2 has better behavior with ringing and ghosting.
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May 28, 2014 01:34
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Any thoughts on this MOD-t 3D printer campaign on IndieGoGo? In a moment of weakness I backed one for $200 (+$40 for shipping), they're shooting for delivery next April. I've been dying to dabble in 3D printing and this seemed like as good a time as any. For the price it seems to have an above-average build volume, average speeds, and it uses standard PLA filament. I don't have any hands-on experience with 3D printers, though, so for all I know this could be a pipedream. An article or two on this project mentioned that a couple of the people involved are seasoned veterans of this field so I'm going to remain hopeful.
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May 28, 2014 16:11
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Layer height and print quality aren't the same. I have concerns about it, in that the rods that hold the head are not supported on the top. Printrbot did this, got the nickname "wobblebot", and have been fighting it ever since then. They run a normal cartesian setup, three NEMA17s, probably Marlin firmware on an Arduino-style board, with the Chinese Mk8 hotend clones. There's nothing new or innovative there, and most of the pitch is about how awesome their software ecosystem is. They don't show the bed surface preparation, and since it's 80 watts for the whole machine that means no heated built platform. You're probably printing on blue tape. I'm being a cynical rear end in a top hat today though so take it with a grain of salt.
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May 28, 2014 16:36
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I believe you to be right on the mark. Everything in that video feels like it's focused on hiding the complexity of use.
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May 29, 2014 17:42
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That design just reeks flimsy. They also include a pointless huge enclosure when it can only print in PLA. Definitely no heated bed Plus proprietary software. No thanks.
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May 29, 2014 17:50
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MickRaider posted:Plus proprietary software. No thanks.
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May 29, 2014 22:04
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Slic3r doesn't make STL files. Whoever wrote that doesn't know what they're talking about. Slic3r takes STL files and converts them into toolpaths. That said, every 3D modeling program can make STLs. It's an extremely simple open format.
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May 29, 2014 22:20
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Taking STL's isn't my concern. Taking g-code is my concern. It's stupid to limit yourself to one slicer.
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May 29, 2014 23:47
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Hey guys I'm having a crazy problem with my reprap prusa i3 where the extruder will go in reverse really fast for no apparent reason. It then tries to continue the print. I've tried using slic3r vs kislicer and have the same result. I've tried reloading the sprinter software as well. It seems to happen when it changes layers, but not always. Anyone run into something similar? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A8U8SMZ_LyU
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May 30, 2014 02:04
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Do you have some absurd extruder retraction length in your settings?
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May 30, 2014 02:17
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It could be that your printer is expecting the retraction distance to be relative, but your slicers are sending it an absolute value?
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May 30, 2014 02:20
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post the gcode e: If you run the same gcode again does it fail in the same place?
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May 30, 2014 02:23
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I haven't quite dug into the retraction settings yet. I'll do that soon. Here is the gcode (for a robot keychain) however, yes it will fail at the same place. http://tny.cz/9813588d madkapitolist fucked around with this message at 05:24 on May 30, 2014 |
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May 30, 2014 03:42
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I'm not 100% fluent with g-code but this snippet looks wrong to me:code:There is a setting in slic3r 'Printer Settings' -> 'General' -> 'Firmware' -> "Use relative E distances" which might give gcodeplater the type of input its expecting? Or maybe you can disable gcodeplater in pronterface, I haven't looked at it in a while. Also make sure you have the correct firmware 'G-code flavor' selected in slic3r on that same setting screen.
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May 30, 2014 06:18
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Thanks, turns out it was completely the gcode platter's issue in pronterface. If I don't use that, then its completely fine. Thanks a ton, this one had been bugging me for a while. Edit: So... new problem. I was warming up my hot end to 220 to start printing and all of a sudden plastic started pouring out of the nozzle, it looked like it was getting way too hot, the plastic was turning black and was too liquidy. The temperature according to pronterface was no where close to 220. Is my thermistor fried? My hot end is all jacked up and black now... Edit2: Nvm, thermistor is definitely dead, reading 0 now. madkapitolist fucked around with this message at 23:11 on May 31, 2014 |
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May 30, 2014 22:16
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So, if I've done my research right, it shouldn't be TOO hard to "upgrade" my Replicator 2 to be a 2x. Just expensive.  Heated Build Platform: $175 Bigger Power Supply: Not sure Alucarriage Dual: $140 Cooling Block: $25 K Type Thermocouple: $6 Botstep Driver: $45 Nema 17 1.8° motor: $14 Extruder Cable: $40 Dual MBE v9 extruder w/24v heaters: $96 So that's $541. Before shipping.  There's a quick guide that I was looking at here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:236491/#instructions Am I overthinking this? Are there cheaper alternatives? It's just so drat hard to find solid info for adding a second extruder, since searching for Replicator 2 always comes up with the 2X as well. Hell, would it be a good idea to do 2x Bowden extruders instead of the direct feed that it's using now? I have no idea. TwystNeko fucked around with this message at 17:09 on Jun 2, 2014 |
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Jun 2, 2014 16:54
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QU-BD, or quintessentialuniversalbuildingdevice.com has a track record of having terrible extruders and hot ends, I've bought a few of them that have actually come missing parts, where I ended up needing to pay shipping to get the parts that they forgot.
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Jun 2, 2014 20:26
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On the subject of Makerbot Extruders: Does anyone have any suggestions for non-Makerbot sourced replacement extruders/hot-ends for the Replicator? Our hackerspace printers are nearing 2.5 years old, and with heavy use, are in need of some TLC.
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Jun 2, 2014 20:34
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UberVexer posted:QU-BD, or quintessentialuniversalbuildingdevice.com has a track record of having terrible extruders and hot ends, I've bought a few of them that have actually come missing parts, where I ended up needing to pay shipping to get the parts that they forgot. Okay... so what IS recommended then? Is there a simple replacement that I can do? Get a second extruder somehow? Heck, I've seen on Hackaday crazy things like the Kraken, or dual extrusion in the space of just one extruder. I know the Mightyboard in the Replicator 2 has ports for a second extruder and a HBP, just really needs a bigger power supply.
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Jun 2, 2014 20:55
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Karthe posted:Any thoughts on this MOD-t 3D printer campaign on IndieGoGo? In a moment of weakness I backed one for $200 (+$40 for shipping), they're shooting for delivery next April. I've been dying to dabble in 3D printing and this seemed like as good a time as any. For the price it seems to have an above-average build volume, average speeds, and it uses standard PLA filament. I don't have any hands-on experience with 3D printers, though, so for all I know this could be a pipedream. An article or two on this project mentioned that a couple of the people involved are seasoned veterans of this field so I'm going to remain hopeful. It kind of reminds me of the Buccaneer, which also promised to bring 3d printing to people of limited technological literacy. Their campaign was wildly successful, but it seems they've had some difficulty delivering on their promises. First they've omitted a number of promised features, some of which sound kind of important to bringing 3D printers into the mainstream. Then the print quality (according to the one and only test print I've seen thus far) turns out to be total rear end, even for a sub-$500 machine. If it were any other printer, it would just be a matter of getting the thing adjusted properly, except the whole point here is that you're not supposed to have to do that. And now someone is trying to achieve the same objective at an even lower price. Yeah, I'll believe it when I see it. Cockmaster fucked around with this message at 01:37 on Jun 4, 2014 |
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Jun 3, 2014 02:56
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TwystNeko posted:Okay... so what IS recommended then? Is there a simple replacement that I can do? Get a second extruder somehow? Heck, I've seen on Hackaday crazy things like the Kraken, or dual extrusion in the space of just one extruder. I know the Mightyboard in the Replicator 2 has ports for a second extruder and a HBP, just really needs a bigger power supply. If you're willing to work with it, the QU-BD extruder might end up working for you. If you go that route, find the drive gears from MBI, because the ones from QU-BD are terrible at everything that isn't eating filament. I think bowden extruders would be cool, but I've heard that they bring their own issues with them.
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Jun 3, 2014 08:49
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well, I think I should dial in my Rep2 before I even think about doing upgrades. It's printing okay, but there was some weirdness in the last print I did, using black PLA for the first time. I designed a pretty simple sword mount for a friend's display, and while it came out usable and he'll think it's fine, the first 3 mm of the print are gently curved, like the whole object shifted as it was printed.  After that, it's perfectly straight. And on longish horizontal layers, I got some bubbling. But only on the back side. 
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Jun 4, 2014 17:53
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Makerbot's wi-fi support (including camera monitoring) has rolled out, apparently.
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Jun 4, 2014 19:02
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TwystNeko posted:well, I think I should dial in my Rep2 before I even think about doing upgrades. I've seen bubbling like this from low quality ABS or ABS that has absorbed too much water. From my understanding PLA has even more of a problem absorbing water.
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Jun 6, 2014 01:42
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TwystNeko posted:well, I think I should dial in my Rep2 before I even think about doing upgrades. Make sure you're getting your filament from a good supplier. I've had really good luck with ProtoParadigm, they've got a student discount, if that applies to you. And Makerbot made okay filament when I stopped ordering it from them, it always seemed to be tangled over itself halfway through the spool. In any event, I've heard pretty good things about the FlashForge creator, and it looks like they're selling a dual extruder assembly premade. Might be worth a look if you decide to go through with the upgrade. http://www.amazon.com/assembly-Extruder-Flashforge-Creator-Printer/dp/B00GEZ3O9E/ref=aag_m_pw_dp?ie=UTF8&m=A8RK4QCP0IFCY
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Jun 6, 2014 09:11
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So I got my QU-BD One-Up kit today. I was supposed to get it in April, but... yep, got it today. And, surprise! It's missing one piece. Not a nut, or a bolt, or anything I can just hop down to the store and get. Nope, part JJ - The bearing spacer. Which according to the assembly instructions, is kinda important. So, I suppose I'll put together the extruder and the gantry while I wait another 3 months for a piece of acrylic to ship to me. I wish I had the ability to make my own, but this is my first real step into things like this... Any suggestions? Or should I just wait? I'm in Northwest Florida if anyone can just make me one 
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Jun 8, 2014 03:14
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That's a pretty neat physical representation of the humdity level of the room your 3D printer lives in. You can see pretty much exactly when the air conditioner kicked on. 
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Jun 8, 2014 03:31
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Hadlock posted:That's a pretty neat physical representation of the humdity level of the room your 3D printer lives in. You can see pretty much exactly when the air conditioner kicked on. Except I don't have an air conditioner! :V It really only happens when I print with the black PLA. The colorchange filament was perfect, and was from the same supplier.
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Jun 8, 2014 05:26
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josiahgould posted:So I got my QU-BD One-Up kit today. I was supposed to get it in April, but... yep, got it today. If you link me the part, and it's open source, I can probably cut it out on the Shopbot or print you one. Edit: This? http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:213752 UberVexer fucked around with this message at 08:31 on Jun 8, 2014 |
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Jun 8, 2014 08:19
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josiahgould posted:So I got my QU-BD One-Up kit today. I was supposed to get it in April, but... yep, got it today. Yeah, you got screwed on that one. I was short a few washers and a bolt and nut were off sized but other than that I got everything. Let me know if you get yours running, I'm waiting on some more filament on mine before I can really dial it in. I think I have a jam in the hot end and the plastic curls up and around when it comes out and I'm not sure how to get it out. UberVexer posted:If you link me the part, and it's open source, I can probably cut it out on the Shopbot or print you one. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:212989 No, it's the thing in this one that looks like brass knuckles for someone with three fingers, the ydriveupperbody.stl file. At least I think that's the one he's missing.
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Jun 8, 2014 16:51
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UberVexer posted:If you link me the part, and it's open source, I can probably cut it out on the Shopbot or print you one. Nah, it's this on page 6. Part JJ http://www.quintessentialuniversalbuildingdevice.com/BothUps/Instructions.pdf I don't think it's open source though, but no worries. The next few weeks at work are going to be difficult so I won't get to play with it anyway. But while I wait, any tips to keep my PLA nice and dry? I've got some small buckets the spools fit into nicely. Just toss in some moisture absorber?
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Jun 9, 2014 01:23
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josiahgould posted:But while I wait, any tips to keep my PLA nice and dry? I've got some small buckets the spools fit into nicely. Just toss in some moisture absorber? I used to keep my filaments in a ziploc bag with some of the moisture absorber packets, make sure they actually work. Depending on how fast you can go through a spool you may not need to worry about it, during some hardware revision sprints I've gone through two or three spools a week over a few machines.
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Jun 9, 2014 12:19
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Hey- side note about moisture and filament: Is there a way to express moisture out of already compromised, or potentially compromised, PLA/ABS? Will they naturally 'sweat' or can you use heat (thinking to welding you can store rods in a container with a light bulb and sweat out all the moisture) If there is it would be very useful for people like me who don't mind buying large amounts from china in order to get discounts, but then can't count on materials handling for it. Linux Assassin fucked around with this message at 12:57 on Jun 10, 2014 |
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Jun 9, 2014 18:03
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Just an update on making the Printrbot hot end fit my cupcake printer. It works but it's just too much of a hassle to consider as "functional"; being an old finicky printer with a more reliable but somewhat less stable hot end is still a finicky old printer that's just not worth the trouble for what you get out of it. Like the other poster mentioned, "functional" but still a doorstop.
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Jun 9, 2014 18:08
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Linux Assassin posted:Hey- side note about moisture and filament: You can try using a vacuum chamber + dessicant to dry out filament. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iGNXHWPFAKo&t=540s
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Jun 9, 2014 19:15
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peepsalot posted:You can try using a vacuum chamber + dessicant to dry out filament. There we go. That's basically exactly what I wanted to hear/see. He had some bad filament, put it under 11" vacuum for two weeks with desiccant in the container and then had workable filament 11" is not hard to achieve, you can do that with one of those hand vacuum pumps for break bleeding (though you might be at it for a while)- depending on the quality of your shop vac it should be enough to get you started at least so that your not hand pumping till the end of time. Unfortunately any report back on the effectiveness of this from me will be more then 2+months down the line. Side note- I don't think the author of that video quite realized how much moisture he pulled out of that plastic. Assuming he started with a 1KG spool, and removed 1g of liquid that is 1%moisture content removed. Steam has a volume ratio of 1603:1 compared to water, so he removed ~1603 cc of moisture expansion from that 1kg spool of plastic. That is rather significant. Linux Assassin fucked around with this message at 13:15 on Jun 10, 2014 |
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Jun 10, 2014 13:11
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Linux Assassin posted:Hey- side note about moisture and filament: People who are experimenting with nylon routinely bake it to drive moisture out. The only comment I have is that PLA can soften and creep at low temperatures, so good control is a must.
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Jun 10, 2014 17:03
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Has anyone seen this Kickstarter? https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/structur3d/discov3ry-extruder-do-more-than-ever-with-your-3d Twitter's all over the idea of printing with Nutella, but if it works it looks like it could have a lot of really interesting applications, being able to use pastes rather than filament. They do say that paste extruders have been tried before, I'm not knowledgeable enough to say whether theirs is better.
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Jun 11, 2014 09:23
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