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ExecuDork posted:1996 328is Would you be willing to travel to southern Ontario and drive a donor car back? I have a 93' E34 525i just sitting that I'm trying to figure out what to do with. It has a M50TU engine which should be a straight drop in for your car. I'll let the whole car go for $500. I really don't want to see it go to the junkers.
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May 25, 2014 01:12
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| # ? May 25, 2024 04:55 |
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Sounds like the first thing you need to do is determine whether you need rear trailing arms first. Either way, with your situation of housing/job pretty uncertain, I'd junk it and use the $2k to buy something cheap yet reliable and then use the scrapyard money to get that car up to snuff.
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May 25, 2014 02:30
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So I purchased some lighter rims to replace my style 135's that the PO put on my 2002 330Ci. Ended up going with APEX Arc8s in 17x9 with a 42mm offset in a square setup (I had staggered before). For tires, I went with Nitto NT01 255/40r17 for track use. I am just getting into using R comps as my previous tires (Pilot Super Sports) were chunking when driven on the track. Now that I have a square setup, I am looking at my sway bar configuration. I have Turner adjustable sway bars and with the staggered setup (225 front, 255 rear) I had the front at medium stiff, and rear at full stiff. This was to try to balance the car between over/understeer. With the old setup, I still had a fairly understeery car but I think with adding 30mm of rubber to the front of the car I will need to make some changes. Turner suggest a full stiff front bar with a medium stiff rear bar and I will likely start with that. Does anyone have thoughts on a different initial setup? A pic of the car on the new rims/tires: 
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May 25, 2014 04:48
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ExecuDork posted:1996 328is You do not invest or spend money in uncertain times, or before major life events. Kill the car, get the friend's Subaru, don't be an idiot.
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May 25, 2014 18:33
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ZincBoy posted:A pic of the car on the new rims/tires:  ***** several quite reasonable people posted:Don't fix the 328, that would be dumb My friend, he of the massively generous offers (time, help, car) called me last night and we worked out that I'll be borrowing his Subaru Legacy until about October, which is excellent and gives me time to get some of this life-situation and financial uncertainty sorted out. 8ender posted:Would you be willing to travel to southern Ontario and drive a donor car back? I have a 93' E34 525i just sitting that I'm trying to figure out what to do with. It has a M50TU engine which should be a straight drop in for your car. I'll let the whole car go for $500. I really don't want to see it go to the junkers.  Awesome offer, seriously, that would be an excellent adventure and I can think of few better ways to spend a week and a few hundred dollars, if I had access to a spare week and a spare few hundred bucks. Out of curiosity, what's wrong with the E34? Can't you get at least $1500 out of it if it's in reasonable condition? EDIT: a look at Kijiji suggests I can ask around $1000 for the car as somebody else's project, perhaps somebody will bite. Or just the winter tires for ~$250 and the car overheats on the way to its grave at a local JY. A plan! I have a plan! Huzzah (even if I'm sad about my car). ExecuDork fucked around with this message at 20:49 on May 25, 2014 |
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May 25, 2014 20:40
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Well it happens to all of us. The cooling system struck me. The unit was done within the past 50k, but I guess the radiator wasn't one of those things. I caught it at about 3/4 of the way on the dial before I killed it, but it blew only about two seconds before with coolant coming onto the windshield. Ah, to the shop.
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May 27, 2014 03:03
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The familiar sight of brittle german plastics
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May 27, 2014 03:18
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8ender posted:The familiar sight of brittle german plastics   Which is under the intake with a fuckload of other pain in the rear end vacuum and coolant hoses that were unpleasant to replace 
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May 27, 2014 03:46
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Got it towed to my shop, but I'm wondering what I should do. Get a zionsville $700 radiator and never worry about it again? Or get a cheaper unit and pray? I'm planning on doing the radiator and thermostat first and then flushing the system before I try to run it again. If it runs after that, entire cooling system shortly after. edit: Wondering if I should just spread my rear end in a top hat and buy this -- http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/store/screen/prod/store_code/6134/product_code/E39SDCKII.htm Has anyone gone with that? Looks like it addresses the weaknesses of the cooling system, though I would need other parts like the thermostat, waterpump and so forth. Pretty Boy Floyd fucked around with this message at 06:03 on May 27, 2014 |
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May 27, 2014 05:53
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I want an updated CD (yes, my 2002 745i has a CD-based nav system) for the Utah areas. The CD in mine only has the interstates around Utah. BMW no longer sells it. :files: where dat ISO at
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May 27, 2014 07:41
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BraveUlysses posted:If you're in the south end, South lake European is a solid shop, I think they offer a CCA discount too. Forgot to update: I went here, am getting the car serviced. I didn't know that the "service engine soon" light was more than a maintenance reminder light. I'm used to the check engine light of all my other cars.  Fortunately it wasn't on long. Apparently the water pump & thermostat are going bad. Hooray for the thread title before. Oh yeah this car doesn't have a temp gauge.  They'll have to finish it up this week but they seem knowledgeable and reasonable so thank you for the recommendation.
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May 27, 2014 08:03
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Nait Sirhc posted:I want an updated CD (yes, my 2002 745i has a CD-based nav system) for the Utah areas. The CD in mine only has the interstates around Utah. BMW no longer sells it. EBay has quite a few sellers with them... but I don't know how legit they are.
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May 27, 2014 18:30
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I have bought a E46 m3. Does anyone know how to make the television work on digital? Also is it possible to connect my iPod. I am very excited. Also how can I get some Enkei NT03s into England without paying import tax, it's for a project. 
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May 27, 2014 21:03
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Alright, cooling system question time: If I get this: http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-cooling-system-overhaul-kit-with-water-pump-e39-oem-e39coolkit and this: http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-radiator-17111436060 What else do I need to do the entire overhaul? Clips and brackets and poo poo? Anyone?
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May 27, 2014 23:21
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looks good to me!
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May 27, 2014 23:30
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Pretty Boy Floyd posted:Alright, cooling system question time: Glomping on to this... 2003 530i w/80k miles. Any reason why I should not do the exact same thing?
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May 27, 2014 23:42
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^^^Nope you should be thinking about it too.Pretty Boy Floyd posted:Alright, cooling system question time: If your car is an auto, you should replace your fan and fan clutch too. Might not be a bad idea to do belts and tensioners either; certainly belts for sure though. Also I would stay away from the Wahler thermostat; I've replaced three of them under warranty in the last 18 months in my E46 because they started leaking. MrChips fucked around with this message at 23:54 on May 27, 2014 |
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May 27, 2014 23:51
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Seriously don't buy any water pumps except BMW OEM composite or EMP Stewart.
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May 28, 2014 00:01
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revmoo posted:Seriously don't buy any water pumps except BMW OEM composite or EMP Stewart. I've had good luck with my Saleri composite pump (which isn't much of a surprise considering they make the OEM pump anyways) so far...
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May 28, 2014 00:07
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Is that just for E36/E39s because the waterpump kit on pelican parts uses a graf waterpump with a metal impeller
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May 28, 2014 00:09
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May 28, 2014 00:22
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Who's the maker of that?
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May 28, 2014 00:45
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Have a hosed turn signal on the back of my e90, which apparently there is a TSB for, but dealers only fix it while under warranty. Does anyone have experience with these or is OEM the only way to fly?
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May 28, 2014 00:46
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Pretty Boy Floyd posted:Who's the maker of that? Graf. I bought one, took one look at the welds, googled for a bit and then sent it straight back.
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May 28, 2014 01:03
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That right there is why I bought my cooling system replacements as individual parts instead of a kit, just so I could get the correct OEM pump (Saleri).
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May 28, 2014 02:01
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Nait Sirhc posted:I want an updated CD (yes, my 2002 745i has a CD-based nav system) for the Utah areas. The CD in mine only has the interstates around Utah. BMW no longer sells it. Quoting to merely say I stalked your post history in this thread to see if I know you. Is your 7 one that had a couple of rather expensive parts (coughtransmissioncough) completely replaced for a brand new one just before you bought the complete car for approximately the same price? If so, hi fellow UBEr 
Somewhat Heroic fucked around with this message at 05:53 on May 28, 2014 |
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May 28, 2014 05:51
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I put a Graf on my e46 years ago, this is scaring me :-/
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May 28, 2014 07:02
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Does the thread hive mind have a favorite tire for an e90 328? I have a NorCal to Montana trip coming up next month and my run flats will need to be replaced beforehand. I'd rather avoid the expense of new run flats and don't really have to worry about winter weather tires.
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May 29, 2014 07:02
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Can't go wrong with Michelin Pilot Super Sports. A bit pricey, but for good reason. Love them on my e46.
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May 29, 2014 07:13
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Last I was looking at run-flats there was a version of the Potenza 960as out, which is a good all-season in the regular kind. It's been a while since I looked though.
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May 29, 2014 08:20
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I finally found a good way to get the lower radiator hose off without a whole bunch of brute force. Of course it still required a bit of WD40 and the 4 piece pick and hook set from Harbor Freight - http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-pick-and-hook-set-66836.html.  That section there can be reached from below the car. If you can kind of wedge 2 hooks in there without damaging the surrounding plastic. Once you get it wedged it there, carefully start trying to pry the hose without too much force. It just takes a bit of patience and carefully prying but I was able to get it off without shaking the radiator apart. I'm glad I don't have to do this again for another 60k miles. That was by far the hardest part of the entire refresh.
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May 29, 2014 16:24
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ibntumart posted:Does the thread hive mind have a favorite tire for an e90 328? I have a NorCal to Montana trip coming up next month and my run flats will need to be replaced beforehand. I replaced the runflats with Pilot Sport AS3's, they've been great.
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May 29, 2014 16:37
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Shadowhand00 posted:I'm glad I don't have to do this again for another 60k miles. That was by far the hardest part of the entire refresh. That's why you replace everything all at once, including the radiator...so you can give no fucks and kastein it apart. 
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May 29, 2014 20:12
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Touring chat: Wife is talking about wagons again, not sure how serious she is but thought I'd explore the BMW option. Thinking E46, E39, E61 or E91. Is the E46 still the cheapest to own and wrench on yourself? What would come second to that? Driving a manual is starting to grow on her but I'm not sure if she'd still prefer an AT. What's the longevity on the ATs in these cars like? If she does opt for a manual, what engine choices do we have? I think it's 325 and 328 for the E46, 525 for the E39, and no manual available for the E61 and E91 (we're in the US), but I'd like to confirm. What is BMW's all wheel drive like re: handling/understeer and reliability/cost of ownership? I've never driven an X car. Any major issues or links to FAQs you can provide for these models? With E46s I remember subframes being a problem. With all cars I know of the cooling system stuff, bushings and rubber bits, etc.
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May 29, 2014 20:16
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At least for the E46, I'm pretty sure the wagons only came in 323 and 325 form. You could never get the bigger engine (328/330) in wagon form unfortunately. You can choose between RWD and AWD (i vs. ix). In the E46 the AWD system is a full-time mechanical fixed-ratio system that isn't particularly sophisticated. Unless you really really need AWD the RWD variant will handle better, be less complicated, more efficient, and way easier to find parts for. E46 auto trans aren't time bombs, but aren't bulletproof either. Trans fluid changes every like 60k miles (iirc) helps longevity, but there are plenty of cases of autos needing rebuilds in the 100-150k range. The manuals are rock solid and will last a long, long time. The E46 bimmerwiki is pretty exhaustive: http://www.bimmerfest.com/wiki/index.php?title=BMW_E46
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May 29, 2014 20:28
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Somewhat Heroic posted:Quoting to merely say I stalked your post history in this thread to see if I know you. Is your 7 one that had a couple of rather expensive parts (coughtransmissioncough) completely replaced for a brand new one just before you bought the complete car for approximately the same price? If so, hi fellow UBEr Wait, what? Transmission replaced?! I have no idea what the previous history of the car was before I bought it, but yes, I bought the car for around the price of what a (at-cost) transmission would cost. Please tell me more about the previous owner and its history, though. edit: and yes I am who you think I am on UBE!
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May 30, 2014 00:26
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There's a 2002 745il for sale near me for silly low money with a battery light on and a transmission issue. Knowing how touchy they are with voltage on the battery I'm thinking about buying it cheap and flipping it. The transmission in the E65s are pretty bullet proof and just get super fussy if the voltage is wrong. Or beater 7 series. 
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May 30, 2014 00:57
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BrokenKnucklez posted:beater 7 series. Seems like the natural progression for this thread.
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May 30, 2014 01:32
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 :3
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May 30, 2014 02:41
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For some reason this post/avatar combo is strangely satisfying.
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May 30, 2014 04:41
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