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The HF ratcheting crimper I have is garbage. Even on the tightest adjustment 100% of my crimps fail the tug test. With the lovely red-handle Radio Shack crimpers 90% of my crimps pass the test.
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May 28, 2014 23:26
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KozmoNaut posted:I'll be the contrarian and say that crimping is better. With soldering, you risk the solder wicking up into the wire and making it brittle. A proper crimped connection is more durable and will stand up better to vibration. Just make sure to use quality crimps and a good crimper. I can't remember a single time when I've seen a soldered connection in automotive wiring looms. Crimps certainly seem to be the standard! That being said, I solder because I never have crimps available.
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May 29, 2014 00:16
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KozmoNaut posted:My dad swears by tools from Berner and Wrth. I'm not 100% sure if the crimps come from them as well, he goes through a lot of them, but he refuses to buy the cheap poo poo.
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May 29, 2014 01:22
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12volt chat: if you want to do any amount of it, get one of these automatic strippers or one like it: http://www.amazon.com/Ancor-702030-Electrical-Automatic-Stripper/dp/B000NI5CMK You will save yourself much cursing. Ask my sailboat electronics system which I've spent the last few months re-doing and adding to for the past few months.
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May 29, 2014 02:19
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Yeah stay away from the HF crimper--it's worthless in my usage too.
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May 29, 2014 02:35
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SuperDucky posted:12volt chat: if you want to do any amount of it, get one of these automatic strippers or one like it: I have one of these and love it! Also, I agree with KozmoNaut that crimping is better than soldering.
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May 29, 2014 03:06
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revmoo posted:The HF ratcheting crimper I have is garbage. Even on the tightest adjustment 100% of my crimps fail the tug test. With the lovely red-handle Radio Shack crimpers 90% of my crimps pass the test. They have a really nice hydraulic die crimper, if you start getting into the larger gauges; surprisingly enough, if I had to put a guesstimated figure out there, I'd say they're 75% as nice as the burndy and greenlee units out there, but at 1/50th the cost. Though, they lack the open dieless models, which are really nice but cost $texas.
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May 29, 2014 03:44
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Krakkles posted:How do I figure out what the right gauge wire is? I'm not sure. I'm just talking out my rear end about simple stuff that's not too picky like tail lights or something. But if it's something, say electronic, I'd be much more careful and do some research. Edit: Also forgot to add that I always make sure I get crimpers with the dyke wire cutting tip right out front. I hate the kind with the wire cutting part in the middle. I'd check out the different styles and see which you prefer. Ramsus fucked around with this message at 05:04 on May 29, 2014 |
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May 29, 2014 05:01
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Krakkles posted:How do I figure out what the right gauge wire is? If I'm over-engineering things, this is what I go by:  Let's assume you have a 120 watt light bar, that's going to draw 10A. You're probably not going to run more than about 20 feet of wire, so use at least 10ga wire from battery to relay to light bar and back again. For the switch, you could probably use spider silk; use whatever you have handy.
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May 29, 2014 05:50
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What is a good/durable and relatively inexpensive remote hose clamp tool similar to this.  It seems like there are a million of these out there and priced from 30 bucks to 150. Ive seen ones for 100 that look exactly like ones ive seen for 30. God drat copy cats everywhere.
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May 29, 2014 19:56
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Someone recommended the Craftsman one in here a ways back: http://www.sears.com/craftsman-cable-operated-hose-clamp-pliers/p-00947390000P Edit: Thanks, Safety Dance! Safety Dance posted:If I'm over-engineering things, this is what I go by: When I do this install, the distance from battery -> relay -> light bar is actually going to be very short - MAYBE 3 feet. Does this correctly imply that I can use a smaller gauge (looks like 16, maybe 14 to be safe) wire? Edit again: and you nailed it, it's a 120W/10A lightbar. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 20:02 on May 29, 2014 |
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May 29, 2014 19:59
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Yes, you can, but as usual that's the minimum spec. I usually use 10ga for anything lighting related on the power side of the circuit unless larger wiring is required. As noted, anything works for the signal side. A lot of people use stranded cat5, in fact.
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May 29, 2014 20:04
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kastein posted:Yes, you can, but as usual that's the minimum spec. I usually use 10ga for anything lighting related on the power side of the circuit unless larger wiring is required. Ok, so I'm going the crimping route (ordered a Snap-On crimper, because I usually trust their tools, and it sounds like it's one of the "if you buy a lovely one you will regret it" tools), I'm looking at connectors from McMaster Carr because Berner sadly doesn't seem easily available in the US. For fuses, I should fuse near the power source, not the load, right? Or both?
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May 29, 2014 20:08
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Krakkles posted:That's probably a good idea. Ok, cool. Thank you! Oh hell, I just use a crimper from Napa and buy all of my crimps at ACE, then wrap that up with good 3M tape. I put the fuse where it stays clean and easy to access, just in case. I also started using closed end crimps as I only have to squeeze it once and it works with 2-18ga wires as well as it does 2-10ga wires. The only crimps I've had fail were using the wrong size for the wire to begin with.
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May 29, 2014 20:17
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Krakkles posted:For fuses, I should fuse near the power source, not the load, right? Or both? Think about it: with the fuse as close to the battery as you can get it, if a wire gets pinched anywhere along the run and shorts against the body, the fuse should blow. If you make a run from the battery up front all the way to an accessory in the trunk, then put the fuse way back in the trunk, you could have more serious smoke in the same scenario.
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May 29, 2014 20:17
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Fusing near the power source is better since there is a possibility that you could end up with a short somewhere between the power source and the load. If the fuse was on the load in that case, it would never break the circuit.
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May 29, 2014 20:17
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peepsalot posted:Fusing near the power source is better since there is a possibility that you could end up with a short somewhere between the power source and the load. If the fuse was on the load in that case, it would never break the circuit. In this case (battery - relay - light) is the relay the load, or the light? Or, basically, do I need to fuse before AND after the relay, or just one side? StormDrain posted:Oh hell, I just use a crimper from Napa and buy all of my crimps at ACE, then wrap that up with good 3M tape.  Krakkles fucked around with this message at 20:34 on May 29, 2014 |
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May 29, 2014 20:32
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Krakkles posted:Makes good sense, thanks both of you. Fuse between the battery and the relay. The relay itself isn't the load, but the relay-light system is.
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May 29, 2014 20:35
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Safety Dance posted:Fuse between the battery and the relay. The relay itself isn't the load, but the relay-light system is. Fuse as close to the battery as possible, especially if you pass through a firewall or something. The fuse will protect anything downstream (away from battery side of fuse) in the event of an over current condition, for example, if the wire passed through a hole in the chassis and over time wore the insulation down (use a grommet). If the fuse was downstream of the fault, then the wire would become the fuse and turn red hot.
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May 30, 2014 03:54
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I guess this fits in this thread: do you guys use creepers when you work under your cars? For years I've been sliding in and out from under cars on ramps/stands, and today especially I wished a had one. I'm a skinny dude but is the loss of clearance between you and the car noticeable/annoying, if you had for example a car set up on a set of Rhino Ramps? Speaking of ramps, my set of Rhinos has been missing one of the rubber pads for several years now. I understand the company that made them (Blitz) is defunct now. I know you used to be able to get replacement pads for the asking. Anyone know where I can get a new one these days? They still work fine, but obviously the pad is there for a reason.
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May 30, 2014 04:19
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two forty posted:I guess this fits in this thread: do you guys use creepers when you work under your cars? Of course. If you don't have a "proper" lift but have a smooth surface to get under an adequately (low) lifted and supported vehicle why wouldn't you?
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May 30, 2014 04:37
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Motronic posted:Of course. If you don't have a "proper" lift but have a smooth surface to get under an adequately (low) lifted and supported vehicle why wouldn't you? Any suggestions, then, or are they all as similar as they appear?
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May 30, 2014 04:44
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two forty posted:Any suggestions, then, or are they all as similar as they appear? I was given a harbor freight one with an adjustable headrest that I love.
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May 30, 2014 04:48
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two forty posted:Any suggestions, then, or are they all as similar as they appear? Don't wear baggy clothing. Nothing is more embarrassing than getting stuck under your car because your shirt jammed the wheel and you don't have the leverage to drag it. 
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May 30, 2014 05:20
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I'm a poor scrub with nowhere to store large tools like that so I save any big cardboard boxes and slide under on those.
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May 30, 2014 06:01
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Kardboard krew 4 lyfe
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May 30, 2014 06:41
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Cakefool posted:I'm a poor scrub with nowhere to store large tools like that so I save any big cardboard boxes and slide under on those. I have a very nice creeper that I never use because it would involve jacking the car up 2 more inches.
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May 30, 2014 07:05
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I never use my creeper because I'm always working on uneven, cracked concrete and I'll invariably run over my hair. If I had a nice smooth shop slab it would be great, though.
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May 30, 2014 10:28
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Every time i've used a creeper I end up running over my bloody work light power cord with it. Or im trying to wrench something up to 160-170ft/lb and instead of actually pulling the wrench I just slide around the floor on the bloody creeper. Kardboard mostly here... failing that, the 3x3m square of old carpet is great when your stuck under a car for HOURS.
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May 30, 2014 12:21
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StormDrain posted:I was given a harbor freight one with an adjustable headrest that I love. I've got a Big Red Jacks version of this one that's great. I did have to go around and tighten all the wheels first as they got a bit floppy and pinched the poo poo out of my arm. Ferremit brought up a good point with torquing stuff down - I usually have to wedge myself against something so I don't just spin around. I've also got a stool like this: https://www.etsy.com/listing/190514...TfUG4VAC1vD_BwE that my dad gave me. Mine's red and is in much better shape than that clown's.
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May 30, 2014 14:00
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Preoptopus posted:What is a good/durable and relatively inexpensive remote hose clamp tool similar to this.  is, frankly, rubbish.
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May 30, 2014 14:09
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Cakefool posted:I'm a poor scrub with nowhere to store large tools like that so I save any big cardboard boxes and slide under on those. BraveUlysses posted:Kardboard krew 4 lyfe sup guys  I either use the back of my beat up (sorry, "distressed") leather jacket I've been rolling around in junkyards on for 5 years now, or a big sheet of closed cell foam. Or a sheet of cardboard. Cardboard slides really nicely on packed/refrozen ice and snow, btw. Better than a crawler even. Mostly I do my repairs at work now, where the floor is clean and smooth enough I just slide around on my back, but at home it's a dirt road and driveway so there's no point in trying to use a crawler.
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May 30, 2014 14:35
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My girlfriend got me a creeper for working under my Jeep. I've used it once so far and I hit my head on pretty much everything I could find. Control arm mounts, axle tubes, etc. I guess there's a learning curve. Using the creeper makes it easier to get to the tools that I always leave on the wrong side of the vehicle at least.
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May 30, 2014 17:10
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I bought the harbor freight creeper and got it for about $22 with a coupon. It's the same one Advance Auto sells for $50. I haven't tried it out yet. http://www.harborfreight.com/oversized-low-profile-creeper-2745.html
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May 30, 2014 17:15
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Astonishing Wang posted:My girlfriend got me a creeper for working under my Jeep. I've used it once so far and I hit my head on pretty much everything I could find. Control arm mounts, axle tubes, etc. After a while you understand how high to lift the vehicle to get around comfortably. The worst I've done is smashing my finger trying to get over the crack in my floor. I also replaced my corded work light with a cordless unit for that reason.
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May 30, 2014 17:20
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Astonishing Wang posted:My girlfriend got me a creeper for working under my Jeep. I've used it once so far and I hit my head on pretty much everything I could find. Control arm mounts, axle tubes, etc. I just remember where all the good handholds on the bottom of my jeep are so I can reach up a few inches, grab one, lift myself up by it and push across under it with my feet. Kinda like an upside down push-up, I guess. (Driveshafts and the trans crossmember + axle housings are great. Exhaust? Not so much, unless it's been off for a while.)
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May 30, 2014 18:25
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Krakkles posted:
Back to crimper chat! I have a Paladin Tools Crimpall 8000 kit (with the data/coax dies) and have added dies for molex pins, and terminal/lug connectors etc. It's a nice solid tool, produces reliable crimps and allowed me to throw out a handful of shittier tools it replaced.  It's available just as the frame, or with one set of dies, or as a bunch of different kits. Not sure if it's more expensive (or better/worse) than the bluepoint stuff tho. There are a ton of dies for just about every kind of connector, which can be handy.. Not sure why I can still crimp rj22 handset plugs, but uh, I can woo?! Blitter fucked around with this message at 19:44 on May 30, 2014 |
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May 30, 2014 19:41
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InitialDave posted:I can tell you that the cheapo one I bought for Well I appreciate the one and only input!
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May 31, 2014 01:08
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Preoptopus posted:Well I appreciate the one and only input! Spend a different amount and report your findings. With two data points, we can determine a trend.
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May 31, 2014 03:11
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I should have at least used some cardboard. I spent about six hours laying on an epoxy-painted garage floor and woke up sore all over. Neck, shoulders, chest, back, stomach, and the back of my head. I wasnt even breaking stuck bolts or anything. Is this is what getting old feels like? I'm 25, what in the hell. Now I know how my dad felt when I roped him into helping me with car poo poo ten years ago. I'll probably grab the Harbor Freight one on coupon and see if I like using one. Actually, I don't know if its been said before but I have sets of Harbor Freight "Pittsburgh" sockets and wrenches and they are accurate (? Fit the bolts well?) and have held up to amazing abuse over years and years of use. I bought them figuring if I break them they'll replace them and for less than a Jackson what do I have to lose? They're currently my main sets of wrenches and sockets until I get really drunk and buy a set of Snap-Ons off ebay at 3 am.
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May 31, 2014 05:59
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