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CapnBry posted:I have a giant-rear end 15 gallon electric brewery and I keep thinking about making a small batch version that I can run in the kitchen so I'd be interested in seeing what you come up with. I suppose I should have specified. I'm doing BIAB, so I'll be doing a full volume mash, and the pumps will only be recirculating! CapnBry posted:
Wow! I never thought of the problem with getting a vigorous boil out of setting the temperature. There's no way to make the TA4-SNR do a vigorous boil, such as toggling between 100°C and 105°C?
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# ? May 30, 2014 13:30 |
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# ? Jun 7, 2024 22:02 |
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hellfaucet posted:Inspired by Brewing Classic Styles and Brew Like A Monk: Thanks! I'm doing a small batch -- 2.25 gal max. At that size, I think I'm going to skip the Black Patent as it's less than an ounce and round to the nearest ounce on the rest for sanity's sake. I may boil longer to compensate, though that may be the wrong approach. I'll let you know in 3 weeks how it turned out!
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# ? May 30, 2014 13:58 |
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Midorka posted:Monk's has been different every time I've had it, the first time it was very vinegar and the second time it was really restrained. Oude Tart I found to be pretty vinegar though. I've never had La Folie though. Yeah, in retrospect, you're probably right about Oude Tart, it's so loving sour that really throws the balance off and there's definitely some acetic there, but it's hard to wade through the levels of tart/funk and get to it. Much more pronounced as it warms. It's been a minute since I've had it and I checked my notes, for sure there's a nice subtle acetic flavor there. hellfaucet fucked around with this message at 14:09 on May 30, 2014 |
# ? May 30, 2014 14:04 |
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BrianBoitano posted:Thanks! I'm doing a small batch -- 2.25 gal max. At that size, I think I'm going to skip the Black Patent as it's less than an ounce and round to the nearest ounce on the rest for sanity's sake. I may boil longer to compensate, though that may be the wrong approach. Nice! The black patent is really just for some color and a touch of roasty notes. You might want to let it go for a couple extra weeks since the gravity is so high. I found that on week 3, the isoamyl acetate (banana) started to subside and turn more into a date/plum/clove vibe. If you can't grab the ECY09, try WLP530 / WY3787 instead.
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# ? May 30, 2014 14:07 |
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hellfaucet posted:Yeah, in retrospect, you're probably right about Oude Tart, it's so loving sour that really throws the balance off and there's definitely some acetic there, but it's hard to wade through the levels of tart/funk and get to it. Much more pronounced as it warms. It's been a minute since I've had it and I checked my notes, for sure there's a nice subtle acetic flavor there. I wonder if Blue Moon's new Flanders Red/Saison beer will have a acetic character to it?
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# ? May 30, 2014 14:19 |
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I prefer to do Flanders reds with just lacto for the bugs. It's the only way I can manage to keep any body and it tastes like sour beer candy :3
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# ? May 30, 2014 14:54 |
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Double Post: the guys from Basic Brewing finally saw my painting: https://www.facebook.com/basicbrewing/posts/10152845767223906
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# ? May 30, 2014 17:14 |
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What do you guys use to clean silicone hoses? Or do you just transplant the fittings to new hoses when they get discolored and yucky?
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# ? May 30, 2014 19:46 |
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Additional electric brewing question: Can somebody suggest an SSR worth half a drat? Those in this search are all widely panned for burning out easily or being cheap knock-offs. Still, $10 is pretty cheap, and I'll know in 2 days if they'll work thanks to Amazon Prime. I'm going to run mine off of an Arduino, so I don't need a PID controller.
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# ? May 30, 2014 20:44 |
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Jo3sh posted:What do you guys use to clean silicone hoses? Or do you just transplant the fittings to new hoses when they get discolored and yucky? I don't currently use them for anything cold-side, so I just rinse them before/after use, but I've been thinking about making the upgrade and going 1/2" silicone across the board. I thought part of the whole point was they didn't get yucky really, and you can just boil them.
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# ? May 30, 2014 21:22 |
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wildfire1 posted:
My first ever lager saga continues. I brewed this https://www.brewtoad.com/recipes/ritual-porter (a Baltic Porter) May 11th, and it went alright on brew day. Hit 1.081, 3 off my target OG, and started it fermenting around 50-52 for a couple of weeks. I took a gravity sample last Sunday, and it read 1.031, so 60% attenuation so far. Then, at some point between Sunday and yesterday, my fermentation fridge accidentally got unplugged. By the time I noticed yesterday, the beer was up to around 58F, and I got nervous. Before reading the above reply, I plugged it back in and the beer got back down to about 55F. At this point, I am just letting it stay there. I took another gravity sample today, and I got 1.031 again, so obviously the beer's indeterminate stay at a higher temperature did nothing to increase attenuation. It also still tastes fine, albeit super syrupy. I am wondering, though - has anybody known WLP830 German Lager to stall? Is it possible the beer is just done? I mean, it's a big ol' sweet grain bill, but we did mash pretty low (151-149-151 over the course of the mash), and 60% is pretty drat low. Any thoughts? I'll probably just leave it at 55F for another couple weeks and see what happens. I really have no idea how long primary should be for a giant, fat lager, so I'll let it chill.
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# ? May 30, 2014 21:27 |
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more falafel please posted:I don't currently use them for anything cold-side, so I just rinse them before/after use, but I've been thinking about making the upgrade and going 1/2" silicone across the board. I thought part of the whole point was they didn't get yucky really, and you can just boil them. Well, my wife just forced me (FORCED, I say!) to buy a hoprocket, so that meant that I needed to review all my fittings to see what I needed to integrate it, and I noticed that a couple of my hoses were kinda grody. I have them soaking in PBW now, but that does not seem to be making a huge difference. If that doesn't do it, I think I have some line cleaner hanging around that ought to.
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# ? May 30, 2014 21:29 |
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Jo3sh posted:Well, my wife just forced me (FORCED, I say!) to buy a hoprocket, so that meant that I needed to review all my fittings to see what I needed to integrate it, and I noticed that a couple of my hoses were kinda grody. I have them soaking in PBW now, but that does not seem to be making a huge difference. If that doesn't do it, I think I have some line cleaner hanging around that ought to. I'm definitely considering biting the bullet and paying $2+/foot and just using them for everything, except maybe blowoff. Blowoff I can use 1/2" vinyl and just throw it out when it gets grody. I'm sick of having to find the right ID/length/non-grody hose for transferring. It would also mean I'd need a 1/2" autosiphon, which means my 5/16" could be dedicated to sours.
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# ? May 30, 2014 22:39 |
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more falafel please posted:I'm definitely considering biting the bullet and paying $2+/foot and just using them for everything, except maybe blowoff. Blowoff I can use 1/2" vinyl and just throw it out when it gets grody. I'm sick of having to find the right ID/length/non-grody hose for transferring. Even silicone hoses can get grody, it appears. The PBW did nothing to get the discoloration out of them, and encouraging it with a brush didn't help, so now I have them soaking in some line cleaner. If that doesn't help, I don't know what the gently caress. Sodium hydroxide, maybe. Google hasn't been much help on this one. Meh, even if it just means I end up chucking the hoses out and putting the QDs on new hoses, I'll be OK with that. But I'd rather not if I can help it. I'm not going back to vinyl, though. Edit: The line cleaner appear to be at least loosening the gunk. I need to get a longer brush, though. Jo3sh fucked around with this message at 00:02 on May 31, 2014 |
# ? May 30, 2014 23:21 |
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BrianBoitano posted:Wow! I never thought of the problem with getting a vigorous boil out of setting the temperature. There's no way to make the TA4-SNR do a vigorous boil, such as toggling between 100°C and 105°C? BrianBoitano posted:Can somebody suggest an SSR worth half a drat? Those in this search are all widely panned for burning out easily or being cheap knock-offs. Still, $10 is pretty cheap, and I'll know in 2 days if they'll work thanks to Amazon Prime. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions you think I might be able to handle.
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# ? May 31, 2014 14:14 |
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A thermometer I stumbled across online: http://www.sciplus.com/p/DIGITAL-LAB-THERMOMETER_54801
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# ? May 31, 2014 15:06 |
Jo3sh posted:What do you guys use to clean silicone hoses? Or do you just transplant the fittings to new hoses when they get discolored and yucky? I wash them out asap once I've pitched the yeast and everything is has been done and it's clean up time. (I get almost boiling water from my hot tap so I use that) Just power jet the hot water though it then leave it to soak abit then wash it one more time and let them dry on the side. I havn't had a yucky hose yet from it, however some have been miscoloured but its just a slight yellow miscolouring and I use those hoses for the stuff prior to wort chilling (eg the water sparge hose etc).
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# ? May 31, 2014 15:15 |
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Jo3sh posted:A thermometer I stumbled across online: "View Hand Drawn" What?
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# ? May 31, 2014 15:53 |
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Haha I'm not sure but it's a pretty funny drawing.
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# ? May 31, 2014 16:56 |
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Here's a pic to show the hoses I've been asking about. On left, new and unused tubing. Middle, tubing used to move hot water and cooled wort. Right, tubing used to move hot wort. After all the cleaning, they are better than they were, but they still smell worty. If I can't get them cleaner by the time my additional QDs show up and I start reassembling the hoses, I'll probably just replace the tubing in the three worst ones.
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# ? May 31, 2014 17:08 |
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So I may have just set the record for most stupid. I have a cream ale that is done with secondary and ready to be kegged, and a marzen that I finished brewing Thursday. I was waiting a couple of days for the marzen to cool down and for a starter to get going, so this morning (hung over) I head out to pitch the starter into the marzen and keg the cream. Aaaaaaand then I proceed to dump the marzen starter into the cream ale. So, I'm just going to go get another thing of yeast for the marzen so it is fine; what about the cream ale? What should my plan be here? Leave it for a few days and then keg as usual? Throw it away? Light it on fire?
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# ? May 31, 2014 17:56 |
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bewbies posted:So I may have just set the record for most stupid. I'd ferment it a bit warmer on the lager side and see what happens.
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# ? May 31, 2014 18:04 |
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Is it bad news to fill screw top growlers with a batch of brew? I've heard some stories of growlers not being able to withstand the pressure of carbonated homebrew, but some breweries have released beer in swing top growlers.
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# ? May 31, 2014 18:09 |
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CapnBry posted:Feel free to PM me if you have any questions you think I might be able to handle. Thanks! I'll try out the cheaper one with an oversized heat sink and a PC fan to boot. I'll take you up on your offer for assistance, and I'll document as much as I can in case it's helpful to others looking to try this!
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# ? May 31, 2014 18:10 |
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bewbies posted:what about the cream ale? What should my plan be here? Leave it for a few days and then keg as usual? Throw it away? Light it on fire? Well, the cream ale is already done, right? But now it has a bunch of yeast floating in it. I'd leave it alone for a couple of days so all that will settle out (since there's nothing there for the lager yeast to ferment), then keg it.
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# ? May 31, 2014 19:23 |
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Bag of Sun Chips posted:Is it bad news to fill screw top growlers with a batch of brew? I've heard some stories of growlers not being able to withstand the pressure of carbonated homebrew, but some breweries have released beer in swing top growlers. Well the difference is that they are force carbonating. I'm bottling my batch on Monday in screw top growlers though. I'm putting them in Rubbermaid containers though in-case they explode. I'll report back in two to three weeks.
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# ? May 31, 2014 21:29 |
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Jo3sh posted:Well, the cream ale is already done, right? But now it has a bunch of yeast floating in it. I'd leave it alone for a couple of days so all that will settle out (since there's nothing there for the lager yeast to ferment), then keg it. I'd probably just keg it, the yeast will settle out in the keg and your first couple of pours might be yeasty.
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# ? Jun 1, 2014 03:03 |
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Alright, I'm getting sick of Simcoe, Amarillo, Citra, and Mosaic, which have been my go-to hops for the past year or so. I'd like to make an IPA using hops that have different characteristics. Anyone have any suggestions for IPAs using unique hop choices?
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# ? Jun 1, 2014 14:45 |
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null_pointer posted:Alright, I'm getting sick of Simcoe, Amarillo, Citra, and Mosaic, which have been my go-to hops for the past year or so. I'd like to make an IPA using hops that have different characteristics. Anyone have any suggestions for IPAs using unique hop choices? I'm doing a SMaSH project where I grab random hops off the shelf and try them out. You could do that?
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# ? Jun 1, 2014 14:49 |
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Midorka posted:I'm doing a SMaSH project where I grab random hops off the shelf and try them out. You could do that? Yeah, if I could get my one-gallon rig built, I might try that, but I don't want to have to drain-pour five gallons if it doesn't work out. There are so many hop varieties, out there, and so many talented brewers, here, I thought that some goons may have had some successful experiments under their belt.
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# ? Jun 1, 2014 14:58 |
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null_pointer posted:Yeah, if I could get my one-gallon rig built, I might try that, but I don't want to have to drain-pour five gallons if it doesn't work out. For the first attempt I did a mini-mash on the stove and got a 3 gallon bucket to ferment in. I think I'm going to do extract next time since it's less of a pain in the butt.
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# ? Jun 1, 2014 15:05 |
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null_pointer posted:Alright, I'm getting sick of Simcoe, Amarillo, Citra, and Mosaic, which have been my go-to hops for the past year or so. I'd like to make an IPA using hops that have different characteristics. Anyone have any suggestions for IPAs using unique hop choices? Chinook, Centennial, Cascade, Summit. Sorachi Ace. Riwaka.
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# ? Jun 1, 2014 16:04 |
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Oh I had a Cigar City beer with Kohatu hops. Never heard of them but they are amazing.
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# ? Jun 1, 2014 16:29 |
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null_pointer posted:Alright, I'm getting sick of Simcoe, Amarillo, Citra, and Mosaic, which have been my go-to hops for the past year or so. I'd like to make an IPA using hops that have different characteristics. Anyone have any suggestions for IPAs using unique hop choices? If you really want to buck the trend, pick some hops that you wouldn't associate with an IPA. One of my favourite beers I made last year was 6 lbs 2-row, 4 lbs rye malt with about 40 ibu of willamette favoured towards late boil additions with a 2oz dry hop, fermented in the mid 60s with WY1450. My goal was dry, floral, and spicy, and I think I nailed it. Name an IPA on the market that tastes like that.
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# ? Jun 1, 2014 19:21 |
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null_pointer posted:Alright, I'm getting sick of Simcoe, Amarillo, Citra, and Mosaic, which have been my go-to hops for the past year or so. I'd like to make an IPA using hops that have different characteristics. Anyone have any suggestions for IPAs using unique hop choices? I really like Apollo, Ahtanum, Palisade, Mount Hood, Mount Ranier, Galena, and Nugget in IPAs. I'm with you though, I've had so many IPAs with Amarillo, Citra, Simcoe, and all the other hot poo poo varieties that they're starting to get boring.
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# ? Jun 1, 2014 22:18 |
crazyfish posted:If you really want to buck the trend, pick some hops that you wouldn't associate with an IPA. One of my favourite beers I made last year was 6 lbs 2-row, 4 lbs rye malt with about 40 ibu of willamette favoured towards late boil additions with a 2oz dry hop, fermented in the mid 60s with WY1450. My goal was dry, floral, and spicy, and I think I nailed it. Name an IPA on the market that tastes like that. English IPAs! Floral, spicy, earthy!
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# ? Jun 1, 2014 23:20 |
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Just bought my first bucket. One bucket. I'm going 100% budget here for my first brew. Bought a pre-built ingredient box for an English Ale, an airlock, and some iodine sanitizer. LET'S DO THIS. I know the next obvious step is to buy a secondary fermentation carboy or something like that, but does anyone have any suggestions for cheaper stuff to add on if I decide I want to continue? If this first batch turns out to not be poison, I was thinking of getting a simple Hydrometer and that lab thermometer I saw a page or so ago for . Anything else cheap worth getting?
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# ? Jun 1, 2014 23:49 |
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Napoleon Bonaparty posted:I know the next obvious step is to buy a secondary fermentation carboy or something like that, but does anyone have any suggestions for cheaper stuff to add on if I decide I want to continue? If this first batch turns out to not be poison, I was thinking of getting a simple Hydrometer and that lab thermometer I saw a page or so ago for . Anything else cheap worth getting? I'd skip the secondary fermenter (carboy or otherwise) for now and possibly for a long time. You really don't need one unless you're actually adding a second round of fermentables, like fruit or something. On the other hand, you're going to want to package this batch in a couple-three weeks, so I'd suggest you pick up another bucket (no lid needed), a bottling wand, and an autosiphon. These will make it easy to transfer your finished beer onto your priming sugar and then into bottles. Which means you're going to need a capper and some caps, too.
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# ? Jun 2, 2014 01:06 |
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Admiral is a good one too. My LHBS store has some hops called Huell Melon and i guess it has aroma and flavor like watermelon. I think i want to try a heff with it.
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# ? Jun 2, 2014 02:25 |
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# ? Jun 7, 2024 22:02 |
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I've already got some 750ml resealable bottles. Just enough for the 2.5 gallons I'm making. The best part of the prepackaged stuff I bought is that it's got all of the ingredients divided in half (except for the yeast, but the guy at the store threw some at me for free that was supposed to keep the sediment together). My bottling plan right now a funnel and either pouring super carefully or using the spout at the bottom. I guess it's going to depend on how tall the sediment pile is going to be. I'd rather not use a suck siphon because germs make gross beer, but I have no idea where to start, really. I see all kinds of stuff at the store and online. Anyone have suggestions?
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# ? Jun 2, 2014 02:35 |