|
Yeah, only Carbon and their guaranteed-buyback plan (either selling them on to smaller departments or parting them out for spares) had a chance of keeping former cop cars out of civilian hands. Too bad Carbon was a massive swindle.
|
#
?
Apr 23, 2014 13:11
|
|
Bad Angus! Bad!
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 22:25 |
|
|
I haven't been able to find a solid answer for these questions I have, maybe you guys can help. Like I mentioned in here before, I'm planning on swapping the OEM steel wheels on my 2006 for Bullit wheels. I have been told that the bolt pattern is the same, but I still have questions. Should it be a straight up swap, or will I need stuff like spacers to make them work ok? They are 17 inch wheels, same as the steelies on the car now. At the same time that I'm changing the wheels, I'm planning on getting new tires as well, planning on Goodyear Assurance Triple Treads. My question for that is, what is the best size exactly to put on the Bullit wheels? Should I know this beforehand, or will the tireshop just know/find out for me? I'm not lowering the car or changing the suspension in any way with this, so it will be all stock still. Also, looking at the Bullit wheels, it looks like the lug nuts are exposed/visible. What/where is the best place to order new ones that have a nice finish to them, instead of the surface rusted ones I have on the car now. It would look silly to have fresh clean wheels on the car with rusted lug nuts visible on them.
|
|
#
?
Apr 23, 2014 13:20
|
|
|
themachine posted:I haven't been able to find a solid answer for these questions I have, maybe you guys can help. Like I mentioned in here before, I'm planning on swapping the OEM steel wheels on my 2006 for Bullit wheels. I have been told that the bolt pattern is the same, but I still have questions. Should it be a straight up swap, or will I need stuff like spacers to make them work ok? They are 17 inch wheels, same as the steelies on the car now. At the same time that I'm changing the wheels, I'm planning on getting new tires as well, planning on Goodyear Assurance Triple Treads. My question for that is, what is the best size exactly to put on the Bullit wheels? Should I know this beforehand, or will the tireshop just know/find out for me? I'm not lowering the car or changing the suspension in any way with this, so it will be all stock still. Also, looking at the Bullit wheels, it looks like the lug nuts are exposed/visible. What/where is the best place to order new ones that have a nice finish to them, instead of the surface rusted ones I have on the car now. It would look silly to have fresh clean wheels on the car with rusted lug nuts visible on them. I've been wondering about this myself. It looks like someone did all the research for various fitments here: http://www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1061930 It seems 03+ crown vics it should be a direct fit with no issues. Regarding lugs if you want a specific look or style Amazon has a large selection.
|
|
#
?
Apr 23, 2014 13:30
|
|
|
Since we're on the topic of wheels.. I picked up some 2008 Mustang 'Pony Package' wheels for my car. They're identical to the Marauder wheels.  Getting some rubber next week, then they go on my 2011 LX 
|
|
#
?
Apr 23, 2014 14:48
|
|
|
themachine posted:I haven't been able to find a solid answer for these questions I have, maybe you guys can help. Like I mentioned in here before, I'm planning on swapping the OEM steel wheels on my 2006 for Bullit wheels. I have been told that the bolt pattern is the same, but I still have questions. Should it be a straight up swap, or will I need stuff like spacers to make them work ok? They are 17 inch wheels, same as the steelies on the car now. At the same time that I'm changing the wheels, I'm planning on getting new tires as well, planning on Goodyear Assurance Triple Treads. My question for that is, what is the best size exactly to put on the Bullit wheels? Should I know this beforehand, or will the tireshop just know/find out for me? I'm not lowering the car or changing the suspension in any way with this, so it will be all stock still. Also, looking at the Bullit wheels, it looks like the lug nuts are exposed/visible. What/where is the best place to order new ones that have a nice finish to them, instead of the surface rusted ones I have on the car now. It would look silly to have fresh clean wheels on the car with rusted lug nuts visible on them. What offset Bullits do you plan on going with? I'm currently running 17x9 Bullitts front and rear, +30 offset all the way around and I have to use fairly thick spacers on my 2001. 1.25" front, 1.5" rear, otherwise the back of the wheel grinds against the balljoints up front. Also, pretty much any Mustang wheel will bolt right up, Vics use the standard 5 x 4.5 Mustang bolt pattern. As for tire size, on a 17x9 i'm using 245/45/R17 Kumho Ecsta ASTs and they still have decent sidewall and look great without crazy stretch / bulging.  Super old shot, but this is what it still looks like. This is on stock suspension, no lowering or anything like that. If you're going with a 0 or -30 offset you should be alright, but beware positive setups.
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2014 04:54
|
|
|
IIRC, since he has a 2006 Panther he'll need Bullitts from a 2005 and up Mustang to get the offset right (or something with roughly a 40-50mm offset). You needed spacers because you have the pre-2003 suspension which is quite a bit narrower. E: Found the megathread http://www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2160712#Post2160712 MonkeyNutZ fucked around with this message at 14:02 on Apr 24, 2014 |
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2014 13:55
|
|
|
Ah, I didn't realize they were that drastically different. I knew the offset of the factory steelies changed between the -02s and the 03+s but I never knew it was by that much 
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2014 21:57
|
|
|
So a 1986 Crown Vic: awesome, or poo poo? I had one (well, a '90) as my very first car, but I didn't really give a poo poo about cars at that time so I didn't do much except spin some donuts in the school lawns. Loved the trunk space. I never paid much attention to the performance, besides, it was in a state where it was burning various fluids and probably wouldn't have been very representative. At about 150hp, I guess the 86 CV won't be anything incredible. How's maintenance on one from this era? It seems that the 302 engine was super common so that should be a plus.
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2014 09:17
|
|
|
It's still, at the root, the same 302. The 86 actually introduced true multiport EFI, but I don't know if that was halfway through the model year, or at the beginning. If it's actual MPFI, then it'll be EEC-IV - there's plenty of options to make a bit more power. Trans would be the Ford AOD, which was an early 4 speed auto (lived on until the 91 model year for the Vic, little to no electronics). Only engine options were 302 or 351. The 302 is a lot more common, as you know. The 351 is still a common engine - it was the Windsor variant by then, which was used well into the 90s. Personally, if it's a good price, I'd pick it up. Maintenance will be like any other mid-late 80s V8 EFI - filters, PCV valves, gaskets, distributor cap/rotor, spark plugs. It's late enough that you won't have to carry a spare EEC module with you if you go venture more than 5 miles from home (ask me about my 1980 F-150). Modern enough that you won't really need much work outside of what a more recent car would need. I'd expect more electrical issues than, say, an 87, since 86 was the first model year for true MPFI.
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2014 11:48
|
|
|
2003 Marauder owner checking in with 125k miles on the clock. My only mods are swapping the rear from 3.55:1 to 4.10:1, retuning for faster shift points and 93 octane, and packing 8 clutches in the diff. I'm on my 3rd set of axles, and finally stable at this point. Our wedding photographer just did our engagement shoot and knowing his target audience, he rigged up a camera to shoot my Marauder going up and down Chicago’s Lakeshore Drive.  And my fiance says a pic of the Marauder will be included in our wedding album.  Really not looking forward to my future mother-in-law writing in soap on my car.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2014 03:59
|
|
|
CharlieWhiskey posted:2003 Marauder owner checking in with 125k miles on the clock. My only mods are swapping the rear from 3.55:1 to 4.10:1, retuning for faster shift points and 93 octane, and packing 8 clutches in the diff. I'm on my 3rd set of axles, and finally stable at this point. And also getting everything stable. I have two questions though: How fast were you actually driving during the Lakeshore Drive photo shoot? What time of day did you get that much clearance during a clear sunny day? Oh, and for the Mother-In-Law writing in soap... just write that off as an added expense to the wedding, and schedule a day for stripping the wax, clay bar action, and several layers of wax to give it the same shine it has in that motion picture. Just look at the hood and the reflection of the building behind it. NICE! Or some sort of total vinyl cover that people can write on with soap. I'm sure it exists, ask a car salesperson.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2014 04:38
|
|
|
CannonFodder posted:Congratulations on the wedding! Thanks! We were going between 40 mph and 60 mph. Photo was taken about 8:30am on a Sunday morning. Traffic density was starting to pick up. Good call on the clay bar or vinyl cover. Might even be able to save the cover for the little lady's scrapbook.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2014 12:43
|
|
|
The dealer I work for recently had a new (unsold) car vinyl wrapped pink so people could sign it with sharpies for some kind of breast cancer awareness promotion. Do that. See if you can find hazard stripe masking tape to denote the edges of the 'safe' zone.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2014 13:57
|
|
|
Splizwarf posted:The dealer I work for recently had a new (unsold) car vinyl wrapped pink so people could sign it with sharpies for some kind of breast cancer awareness promotion. Do that. Interesting. I'll have to look into this. Replaced my squealing stock serpentine last night with a Goodyear Gatorback. Since I've never driven the Marauder in snow/salt, the belt tensioner actually moves and the replacement took 13 minutes. Last time I touched belts (horribly rusted 98 Cherokee) the job took 3 hours after busting 2 bolts.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2014 17:08
|
|
|
CharlieWhiskey posted:Interesting. I'll have to look into this. hahaha, I know exactly which bolts you're talking about  I won't even try to work on the belt without having a known good (AKA already freed up and wire wheeled + retapped) bolt/pinch block on hand.One of the worst serpentine belt tensioner designs I've ever seen. Subaru likes using tension bolts too... why the hell can't they just use a big beefy spring tensioner like everyone else?
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2014 18:54
|
|
|
CharlieWhiskey posted:Interesting. I'll have to look into this. If the gatorback is the kind with the serrated grooves I don't really like those, I personally see a lot of them wear out prematurely and crack in the narrow part. Give me a solid rib serpentine belt any day.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2014 19:00
|
|
|
13 INCH DICK posted:If the gatorback is the kind with the serrated grooves I don't really like those, I personally see a lot of them wear out prematurely and crack in the narrow part. Give me a solid rib serpentine belt any day. Those are they. I've never heard of them before reading about guys with Panthers using them to stop squeaking, now I have three on two different cars. Good so far.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2014 20:13
|
|
|
Well, I went off and bought a Panther. It's a 1986 LTD Crown Victoria. It's got the 302 engine, no police package for me. As you can see the paint is in pretty good shape, as is the landau roof.  It's pretty large, but when you pull up to a modern truck, SUV, or even a crossover, you realize it's also not that tall and seriously not even that long by modern standards. It's fit just fine in every parking spot I've encountered so far.  The speedometer goes to 85, because 1980s American laws and such. Cruise control works, as do the tape deck and the air conditioning.   The seats? Velour.   I'd been driving a rather disappointing 99 Taurus belonging to my fiance's parents. When I saw this come up on the local craigslist, I had to go take a look. Took a while, because the owner's DD broke down and he had to use the CV for a while, but eventually I got to check it out and was sold pretty quickly. Passed smog with great results, rides smooth... only problems I've found so far is that the rear driver's side window won't roll up on its own, two of the doors rattle a little, and the driver's seatbelt is a bit wonky (tends to go slack, won't lock when you pull on it sharply).
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2014 05:02
|
|
|
That is sexy as hell
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2014 05:13
|
|
|
CharlieWhiskey posted:That is sexy as hell It's super clean all over, which is really nice. I've got an OBD v1 scanner in the mail from Amazon, an IAC gasket, and 2 each of brass and plastic throttle valve cable grommets (apparently if this fails, your transmission will very quickly commit suicide) I'm in the process of checking the gas mileage. I've filled the 18 gallon fuel tank and we'll see how it does. I'm hoping that based on the really nice smog test results it's burning an appropriate amount of fuel... which should be 17-20 mpg mixed. Will report back once I've burned enough gas to get a decent estimate. I'm also trying to decide how and where I will install my 2m radio kit.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2014 08:27
|
|
|
That's one swanky car. I dig it. Also, question for the whale owners: Thinking about picking up some 17x9 Soft 8's with a 0 offset to replace my 17x9 +30 Bullitts. According to Cragar, the backspace on them is 5". I tried looking at that wheel swap guide on CV Net but they didn't have any info on the backspacing of the stock wheels, and I can't seem to find that out anywhere. They'd be going on my 2001 CVPI, just trying to figure out if I'd need to run spacers still or if I could fit these on without issue.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2014 12:28
|
|
|
Google wizard to the rescue: http://www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2467140&#Post2467140 Note that later in the thread he says: internet guy posted:Also, I'm going to roll my front fender lips a little. I have a tiny bit of contact if the nose dips hard while I'm turning.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2014 15:42
|
|
|
Pham Nuwen posted:It's super clean all over, which is really nice. I've got an OBD v1 scanner in the mail from Amazon Yeah uh, there's nothing compliant with OBD anything on that car. OBD1 was generally 92-95. Return it when you get it. You can jump a couple of wires under the hood with a paperclip to get it to blink codes out. Otherwise you need an EEC-IV reader like this one. Nice car, I'd drive the hell out of that. e: is it just me, or is there not even a light for engine temp? 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 16:23 on Jun 26, 2014 |
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2014 16:20
|
|
|
some texas redneck posted:e: is it just me, or is there not even a light for engine temp?
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2014 16:30
|
|
|
some texas redneck posted:Yeah uh, there's nothing compliant with OBD anything on that car. OBD1 was generally 92-95. Return it when you get it. Sorry, I guess I didn't mean OBD1, because what you linked is exactly the reader I ordered. Apparently the engine light is a multi-purpose idiot light that covers engine temp and oil pressure. If the moderators over at the crown vic forums ever approve my account, I think I'll ask how hard it is to wire in some additional gauges. I'd at least like a real gauge for engine temp. RPM and oil pressure would also be nice.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2014 16:33
|
|
|
It's pretty easy; I had a set of gauges in my F-150 (the typical 3 gauge under-dash thing - oil pressure, coolant temp, voltage). You either disconnect the original senders, or get a T-fitting for them. Or find a new location for them (my 351M had an unused port on the water pump that fit the sender perfectly, for example). In my case, I stupidly disconnected the sender for the oil pressure light - and the rear main seal was non-existent on that engine. I'd glance at the gauges now and then, but occasionally I'd hear it start rattling... then see the gauge sitting at 0. Whoops. The tach needs switched 12V, ground, and a wire connected to the coil. They usually have a selector on them for 4, 6, or 8 cylinder operation. If it's backlit, you'll need a wire to the dash lighting. I had mine strapped to the steering column. Also, for the love of <deity>, go with electric gauges. They cost a little more, but trust me when I say you don't want to run an oil line into the cab. It's more than unpleasant when it pops.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2014 16:43
|
|
|
MonkeyNutZ posted:Google wizard to the rescue: http://www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2467140&#Post2467140 That's the exact setup i'm planning, gently caress yes! Thank you so much for this 
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2014 22:07
|
|
|
If I could keep mine that's exactly what I would get.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2014 03:24
|
|
|
I did the KOEO test and got an 11 ("ok"), did KOER and got 94 & 44. As far as I can tell these are both for the thermactor system. I don't have a manual yet, but from what I can glean online a malfunctioning thermactor won't affect much besides smog tests, and I've just passed smog so no problem, but I figured I'd take a look anyway. Is this the smog pump? I'm only going by crude sketches I saw online, it looks to be connected into the right set of tubes, but I'm wondering WTF is up with that T-splitter on the end... it looks like there's an unplugged hole there?  I'm planning to order the Haynes manual today, unless anyone can recommend a better shop manual for this thing?
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2014 21:02
|
|
|
If you do go with a mechanical oil pressure gauge throw away the plastic tubing and buy 1/8" copper tubing at a hardware store, also use a grommet where it passes through the firewall. The plastic tubing gets brittle and weak from age and heat. I have never had an issue after switching to copper.
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2014 00:42
|
|
|
Figured out why some of the doors are rattling, the striker bushings are broken or completely missing on 3 out of 4 doors, with 2 broken so badly that the doors rattle as you drive. Since the rest of the striker seems fine, I'm thinking of grabbing some flexible tubing and cutting lengths to stick in there. A trip to the thrift store brought up 4 acceptable cassette tapes to augment the Dark Side of the Moon tape I already had in there 
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2014 03:10
|
|
|
Psycho Donut Killer posted:If you do go with a mechanical oil pressure gauge throw away the plastic tubing and buy 1/8" copper tubing at a hardware store, also use a grommet where it passes through the firewall. The plastic tubing gets brittle and weak from age and heat. I have never had an issue after switching to copper. Copper work hardens and will eventually crack from vibration and movement cause by engine torque. If you want to use mechanical, and a hard line, use CuNiFer lines, or better yet, flexible Teflon stainless braided. But electric oil pressure gauges are bountiful in junkyards, and have no risk of a hot oil leak inside the cab.
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2014 08:43
|
|
|
Ok guys, why is my cvpi getting hot and the ac not as cold these days. It get pretty hot when we autocrossed it but I was t too concerned since we were hot lapping it for over an hour in first gear I figured the trans was getting pretty hot and that was the issue with not getting a lot of air with the lower speeds. The efan is going but does not sound very loud. Is their a high speed?
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2014 23:58
|
|
|
I fear my username may have been too Vietnamese-sounding for the good old boys over at crownvic.net, it's been a month and my account still languishes un-approved. I'm hearing some clinking/squeaking, I think from the front end, as I hit bumps on the road, but I can't replicate it when I'm outside pushing up and down. The rubber bits down on the suspension look pretty fuckin old, so I'm thinking that replacing those might help... but I'm also thinking maybe I should run it to a mechanic first and ask him to just have a look at the suspension and the brakes, since I am using this as my daily driver and I'd like to catch any problems in the most important parts. Think it would be better to the Ford dealer shop, or to a reputable shop in town that doesn't necessarily specialize in Ford?
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2014 19:31
|
|
|
Crown vics are so ubiquitous that my mother knows how to work on one, so you're usually fine taking it to any reputable local joint. As for the front end noises, even if you don't have a crownvic.net account, I think you can still search their forums. I bet someone has had your exact issue and someone posted diagrams and videos on how to fix it. I had the same symptoms on my Jeep and it turned out to be my sway bar links rusted in half.
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2014 19:56
|
|
|
Spent 7 or so hours replacing the clutches in my 3.55 LSD with the Ford Racing carbon fiber pack. After doing it once I could probably bang it out in 2 hours but goddamn. My old clutchpacks had 0.10" of wear on each side, Ford specs 0.030" as the limit which explains the horrible axle end play I had before. Now the tires don't chirp while cornering at 1/8 throttle and the axle end play is down to 0.005"! E: Oh, if anyone is interested in a write-up there's a way you can replace the clutches without taking the carrier out of the differential so you don't have to worry about shims or preload MonkeyNutZ fucked around with this message at 20:10 on Jul 23, 2014 |
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2014 20:06
|
|
|
CVN accounts are notorious for taking f o r e v e r to get approved. Mine took about a month and a half. There's only one guy approving them apparently.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2014 01:35
|
|
|
Pham Nuwen posted:I fear my username may have been too Vietnamese-sounding for the good old boys over at crownvic.net, it's been a month and my account still languishes un-approved. Try adjusting the hood stops, two little rubber knobs on either side of the latch. Sometimes that's all it is. Honestly they all squeak and rattle a little when they get older. I think the sway bar is loose or broken on mine. I haven't been too thrilled with dealership service, it's not really worth it since these cars are so simple and the parts are so cheap.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2014 03:59
|
|
|
Pham Nuwen posted:I fear my username may have been too Vietnamese-sounding for the good old boys over at crownvic.net, it's been a month and my account still languishes un-approved. You're not missing much, trust me. If and when you do get approved just search and don't ever post or you'll open the portal to douche nozzle planet and we'll all be screwed.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2014 23:14
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 22:25 |
|
|
leica posted:You're not missing much, trust me. If and when you do get approved just search and don't ever post or you'll open the portal to douche nozzle planet and we'll all be screwed. Well I was hoping to ask them if my specific year is supposed to have the Throttle Valve Grommet of Doom, which instantly destroys your AOD transmission upon failure... I can't seem to find the drat thing, all the cables and pushrods down there seem to be attached very solidly to the lever without a grommet.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2014 23:20
|
|