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Shaocaholica posted:So back to putting my butcher block through the planer... S long as the planer is wide enough, you should be fine. 20" planers are the standard for most shops I've worked in, so make sure that the planer you're going to use can handle 26". as far as cut depth goes, I disagree with everyone else. 1/8" is far to much to take off in one pass, especially on a piece that's 26" wide. Most planers' ideal range is between 0.5mm and 2mm per pass. The minimum of 0.5mm makes sure that any marks left by the feed rollers get cut away, and the maximum makes sure you maintain a clean cut. The maximum is flexible, but it is based on several factors. The width and hardness of your piece being the biggest ones. Feeding speed also makes a bit of a difference, but usually won't make up for taking off to much material. 1/8" (3.1mm) is quite a heavy cut, but you might be able to get away with it for narrower pieces or softer woods. Birch isn't particularly hard, but 26" is very wide, so you'll probably want to take off 1mm to start. If the planer is having an easy time of it and your cut is clean, you'll probably be able to take a little more. In the end, it's always better to take a little less. If your piece gets caught in the planer because you get greedy, you'll end up with a big divot in your counter where the piece stops under the blade. Also, make sure you're flipping the piece between passes to make sure you're releasing tension evenly between the faces. You'll have a hell of a time if the piece starts to warp after taking a 1/4" off one side. If you end up getting tearout for any reason, reduce your feed speed and cut depth for the final passes. This way tearout will be minimized and easier to sand. In the end, if you're using some else's equipment, ask them. They will have a good idea of what their machine can handle and help you if you're having problems.
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Jun 4, 2014 14:53
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Blistex posted:Mastercraft is really hit or miss. Their planers (10+12") are pretty garbage, and their large hammer drills burn out really fast. Their scroll saws are pretty uninspired, as are their sanders (the orbital ones don't rune true and apply more pressure at the corners), and their biscuit joiners are literally the worst I have ever used (that also includes King). The only power tool they have made that actually impresses me is the Mastercraft 12A Plunge Router with Digital Display. It has all the different fittings and slots for using the Porter Cable guide rings, and a host of other base attachments. Also it takes both 1/2 and 1/4" bits. It's probably the only router under $200 that does all of that. I have a ton of their tools and you are right, most are poo poo. I keep asking for tools for Christmas from my parents because I just never need much else. They usually go the Mastercraft route so I've gathered a collection. The jointer might be the worst of them. I just can't get the 2 sides even no matter what I do so its impossible to make a clean cut. Complete waste of money. The table saw i had worked fine, but it's just weak and the fence is garbage. I was making a thick butchers block from hard maple and it struggled to make the cuts on the thick hard stock. The fence is too flexible so making a straight cut was also hard. I ended up using a sled for everything. If you just need rough work though they certainly get the job done cheaply.
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Jun 4, 2014 15:09
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Blistex posted:Mastercraft is really hit or miss. Their planers (10+12") are pretty garbage, and their large hammer drills burn out really fast. Their scroll saws are pretty uninspired, as are their sanders (the orbital ones don't rune true and apply more pressure at the corners), and their biscuit joiners are literally the worst I have ever used (that also includes King). The only power tool they have made that actually impresses me is the Mastercraft 12A Plunge Router with Digital Display. It has all the different fittings and slots for using the Porter Cable guide rings, and a host of other base attachments. Also it takes both 1/2 and 1/4" bits. It's probably the only router under $200 that does all of that. I've picked up a couple of their tools on sale and my RO sander has been great, as long as you don't want to use the dust collector thing (which is really crap). I also bought their mid-level circular saw and while it's had limited use, it's also been perfectly adequate when I've used it and certainly better than the crappy old ones at the workshop.
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Jun 4, 2014 19:11
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Dunno if this has been posted before, but Roy Underhill went on a Ted(x) and flung wooden shrapnel everywhere, while quoting Whitman and Star Wars, just to remind us how awesome it is to be an American: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Au1TbIyLcPU Also, somewhere in this thread, someone mentioned a book that's apparently the end-all-be-all resource for finishing. Could someone remind me please? bollig fucked around with this message at 23:33 on Jun 4, 2014 |
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Jun 4, 2014 22:19
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bollig posted:Also, somewhere in this thread, someone mentioned a book that's apparently the end-all-be-all resource for finishing. Could someone remind me please? Understanding Wood Finishing by Bob Flexner There are a couple others that are very popular but I've had Flexner's book for years and as a hobbyist it covers 99.9% of everything I've needed to know. Wood finishing is fairly simple but like sharpening and many other things people make it difficult by either skipping around with different techniques or not bothering to learn the basics to start.
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Jun 5, 2014 03:03
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I have had a crap Groz #5 plane for the longest time and tried it a few times and couldn't get the thing to work. I realized it wasn't flat, the blade wasn't dialed in correctly nor sharpened, and it generally needed a lot of work, so I never got around to getting the thing tuned up. On a whim a week ago, I decided to dress the blade and grind the chipbreaker on the Worksharp 3000 I picked up on clearance. Added a touch of camber to the blade. I came down with stomach flu a couple days ago and spent the day puking, making GBS threads, and lapping the sole with 180 grit and doing the best I could to get the frog flat. I tried the thing again tonight and after figuring out that the frog really, really needs to be planar with the mouth opening (or even shy of it) and that the chipbreaker should be around 1/64th away from the blade edge, started to try to level the backside of some glue ups I am doing for door panels. Holy loving poo poo, you're telling me I could have done this to get the loving things level instead of sitting with a belt sander for an hour and praying I didn't gouge the work? gently caress me, this thing owns. Got 64 square feet of cherry level in about a half hour and I'd estimate the smoothness is somewhere around what I'd get with 150 grit. I could almost, almost go straight to a cabinet scraper. Now I want to get a smoother and see how close I can get to finish quality without even touching sandpaper. I hate sanding. I hate dust. Planing is the best. All hail planes. Long story short: handplanes own, go get a few lovely ones and tune them up.
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Jun 5, 2014 03:06
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wormil posted:Understanding Wood Finishing by Bob Flexner Thanks. Yeah, learning the basics is exactly what I need. Thanks.
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Jun 5, 2014 10:40
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So I got my Freud diablo general purpoe blade with the 5/8ths diameter arbor. Now what todo when the saw I ended up ordering has a 30mm arbor? Is it complicated to bore up the hole to 30mm if you got a metal lathe (or know someone who does more like).
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Jun 5, 2014 14:02
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You return the blade and buy one with the correct arbor size.
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Jun 5, 2014 15:58
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Tim Thomas posted:You return the blade and buy one with the correct arbor size. This. Imagine how fast the blade is spinning and what would happen if that bore isn't perfectly on center.
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Jun 5, 2014 18:00
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How should I mark wood that I'm going to plane/sand? I'm just concerned that anything with ink thats too thin might seep into the wood and be visible even after material is removed.
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Jun 5, 2014 23:10
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Shaocaholica posted:How should I mark wood that I'm going to plane/sand? I'm just concerned that anything with ink thats too thin might seep into the wood and be visible even after material is removed. ...a pencil
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Jun 5, 2014 23:24
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JEEVES420 posted:...a pencil I guess I should have been more specific. I need to mark up a large pace thats already oil finished to give to a miller who's going to cut it and plane it so I need to make sure the marks stay there for the most part during transport and handling.
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Jun 5, 2014 23:53
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Shaocaholica posted:I guess I should have been more specific. I need to mark up a large pace thats already oil finished to give to a miller who's going to cut it and plane it so I need to make sure the marks stay there for the most part during transport and handling. A lumber crayon?
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Jun 6, 2014 01:26
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Cool. I actually have one of those laying around.
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Jun 6, 2014 02:32
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I got the Rikon and I love it but I need a chuck I think. Mostly turning stuff in the 1 to 4" range, anybody got a jaws recommendation? Also yeah this this has gotten pretty expensive pretty quickly. 
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Jun 6, 2014 04:18
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bimmian posted:This. Imagine how fast the blade is spinning and what would happen if that bore isn't perfectly on center. Returning is not feasible since I bought it from the US. I would if I had bought it locally. E: Found someone who does the service (quite common for larger blades since they are expensive) but he wants as much as what I paid for the blade anyway so I guess I'll try and sell it. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 07:29 on Jun 6, 2014 |
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Jun 6, 2014 06:15
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Made raised panels for the first time in hardwood. Fuuuuuuck burn marks, now I need to make a rabbet plane so I can take these out without sanding for half a year.
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Jun 6, 2014 14:01
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iwannabebobdylan posted:I got the Rikon and I love it but I need a chuck I think. Mostly turning stuff in the 1 to 4" range, anybody got a jaws recommendation? I too have a Rikon mini lathe. I bought a Talon chuck, a bit pricey but everywhere I read regarded it as the best.
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Jun 6, 2014 14:56
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iwannabebobdylan posted:I got the Rikon and I love it but I need a chuck I think. Mostly turning stuff in the 1 to 4" range, anybody got a jaws recommendation? I use a SuperNova2 chuck on my Delta 46-460 and love it. Would like a set of Cole jaws for it though, since I turn bowls frequently and would make it easy to turn a foot on them. That new Easy Wood Tools Easy Chuck looks pretty cool, though mega-expensive. But the one thing that gets annoying about the Novas is when you only have one and you have to take out 8 screws to swap jaws.
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Jun 6, 2014 18:55
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bimmian posted:This. Imagine how fast the blade is spinning and what would happen if that bore isn't perfectly on center. "The wrong son died!"
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Jun 6, 2014 18:56
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A freshly sharpened low angle block plane took care of the burn marks really easily! God drat, planes loving own. I WANT ALL THE PLANES.
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Jun 6, 2014 23:16
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Man, I have got to learn how to work with planes. Is there a recommended resource for figuring out how to take care of them? Maybe it's just that I like working with maple, but every time I try to use the cheap little one I have it goes horribly.
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Jun 7, 2014 00:08
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His Divine Shadow posted:Returning is not feasible since I bought it from the US. I would if I had bought it locally. To reiterate, do not bore a TS blade arbor hole. Yourself, or otherwise. Just don't, it's an easy rule.
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Jun 7, 2014 00:24
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If a planer is rated at 24", whats the safest width material to actually pass through it? What kind of headroom is recommended? Or does the rating typically already account for a safety margin?
Shaocaholica fucked around with this message at 00:49 on Jun 7, 2014 |
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Jun 7, 2014 00:42
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Shaocaholica posted:If a planer is rated at 24", whats the safest width material to actually pass through it? What kind of headroom is recommended? Or does the rating typically already account for a safety margin? The planer's documentation should include safety information like this. When in doubt, trust the docs.
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Jun 7, 2014 01:08
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:The planer's documentation should include safety information like this. When in doubt, trust the docs. The planer at the shop I'm having do the mill work might be really old. Their website lists it as "Crescent Planer (24 inch)". Might be a few decades old and lacking docs. I'll leave it to them to make the call.
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Jun 7, 2014 01:28
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Man, I have got to learn how to work with planes. Is there a recommended resource for figuring out how to take care of them? Maybe it's just that I like working with maple, but every time I try to use the cheap little one I have it goes horribly. Cheap / untuned planes (and hand tools in general) makes for a very frustrating experience and is what probably turns a lot of people off hand tools. Check out Paul sellers on YouTube, he has some great vids on plane care and use.
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Jun 7, 2014 02:11
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Cobalt60 posted:To reiterate, do not bore a TS blade arbor hole. Yourself, or otherwise. Just don't, it's an easy rule. Where does this rule come from because it doesn't seem to be followed by actual woodworkers who do it for a living that I've spoken to. You can buy blades with shims here btw for different arbor sizes, those shims are not quite perfect fits, like they use a 16mm shim for TS with a 15.875mm arbor (5/8"), that is done all the time, someone boring the blade with a lathe would have better tolerances than that so I don't really see the issue when in addition, it seems entirely common amongst professional woodworkers here and there are actual companies doing the service, and european woodworkers are more sticklers for safety than american ones by all accounts. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 10:54 on Jun 7, 2014 |
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Jun 7, 2014 10:48
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His Divine Shadow posted:Where does this rule come from because it doesn't seem to be followed by actual woodworkers who do it for a living that I've spoken to. Yes, of course, there are shops in the world capable of properly boring, balancing, setting, sharpening, etc. I'm just saying that for most humans, it should be a rule of thumb that TS blade holes aren't "adjustable," outside of sending Forrest blades back to Forrest (for example). To the planer question: the maximum width of the planer is also the maximum width of the planer. Unless someone swapped motors, they are generally built to take their maximum cut (but I've only used Olivers & Newmans of that size, maybe imports have issues?). Personally, if I'm planing over 12", I'm going to be taking VERY light passes, but honestly I've seen others just go hog wild just fine.
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Jun 7, 2014 17:45
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I'm thinking of buying some hand planes, looking at some planes in a regional ebay-analoge and found the following planes, do they look good given their price? This one is a Stanley no.3 for about 20 euros + shipping  I quite like this one, looks like it could be easily restored (I've done wood & metal refinishing lots before) and I understand the no.3 is a very useful sized plane for most jobs. There's also this one, bit more modern so I am not as interested in it, not even wooden grips, but its about 25 euros, I dunno?  Timg'd for size.
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Jun 7, 2014 19:22
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They both look OK to be honest, I'd snap them up in your position.
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Jun 7, 2014 19:52
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well this doesn't seem incredibly dangerous or awesome or anything https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9qt5ui3P9QA
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Jun 7, 2014 21:00
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rotor posted:well this doesn't seem incredibly dangerous or awesome or anything I believe he also made a lathe duplicator made of an angle grinder with a dado blade.
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Jun 7, 2014 21:18
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rotor posted:well this doesn't seem incredibly dangerous or awesome or anything Lathe router jigs have been around for a long time. Like cutting circles and bowls on tablesaws or rabbets on jointers, it freaks people out the first time they see it because it's uncommon.
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Jun 7, 2014 23:33
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150 HP lathe: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P4qB6n1cm04
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Jun 8, 2014 04:03
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Nice kickback at about 1:30. http://youtu.be/-gTRPqjy3gg
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Jun 8, 2014 04:46
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rotor posted:well this doesn't seem incredibly dangerous or awesome or anything Cross-post to OSHA.JGP in GBS. ... Jesus.
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Jun 8, 2014 08:21
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How dangerous/difficult is off center turning? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_FhlScQmAfw As for the crazy minivan lathe, I wonder how they keep the suspension still. Not Wolverine fucked around with this message at 13:38 on Jun 8, 2014 |
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Jun 8, 2014 13:34
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Crotch Fruit posted:How dangerous/difficult is off center turning? not terribly dangerous, if setup correctly. It's quite traditional, actually, often used to form oval cylindrical forms like axe handles. You even watch Roy Underhill do it on a treadle lathe. Difficulty just comes from safe setup, and slow approach.
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Jun 8, 2014 18:20
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