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aventari posted:Aren't you never supposed to negotiate on monthly payment? They'll do everything possible to keep final price out of the discussion if you're financing.
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Jun 4, 2014 01:04
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If I were to want to get the glass lens upgrade kit for my E36 M3, which one should I get?
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Jun 4, 2014 02:06
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Kenshin posted:If I were to want to get the glass lens upgrade kit for my E36 M3, which one should I get? The one that doesn't have spiders in it.
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Jun 4, 2014 02:38
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sofullofhate posted:The one that doesn't have spiders in it.
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Jun 4, 2014 02:42
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Since the search function is still down ( ) I must ask something that I'm sure has been gone over in the days of yore: what's the verdict on the 335d? Pursuing reviews, they seem positive overall.There are several loaded 2011 models available in my area and I'm tempted to check them out.
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Jun 4, 2014 18:00
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I have a 1995 318i (5-speed) with 98k on the clock that is doing some funky engine poo poo. It seems to alternate between idling smooth but high (1300 rpms or so) and shaking like crazy with a seeking idle around 600-900 rpms. Definitely the engine shaking, and when I increase the engine speed while its acting up the vibration seems to increase as well. Seems to happen more when its hotter outside or when the car is driven more aggressively, though that could be my imagination. Anything common on these motors that I should start looking at first? I've been chomping at the bit to get started, but the weather has sucked and I want to get my leads together for the first decent day.
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Jun 4, 2014 21:06
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95 should be a M42 engine, so you've got some work to do. http://www.m42club.com/forum/index.php?topic=2742.0 This link shows how to replace all of the terrible hose routing that the stock engine has and replace it all. Most likely you have a dirty ICV (idle control valve) and/or vacuum leak, which this setup is prone to.
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Jun 4, 2014 23:14
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Start with new plugs/wires/air filter if unknown provenance. After that, smoke test for vac leaks, check barn door, go through entire intake system. Ignition systems on these seem to be less of a problem, I'd blame a sensor first probably such as cam position or a temp sensor somewhere. ICV is a sure bet as well, cleaning it will be worth your time no matter what.
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Jun 4, 2014 23:45
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Id say pull the intake manifold and take care of that mess of hosing. Besides what has already been mentioned, check for oil around the valve cover and check the bolts. They love to strip.
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Jun 5, 2014 00:07
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BraveUlysses posted:95 should be a M42 engine, so you've got some work to do. I don't think the E36 has the same manifold and cooling system as the E30 M42 does. I don't believe it has that particular clusterfuck of hoses. Some of them remain, but my guess would be to check for vacuum leaks. According to http://realoem.com/bmw/partgrp.do?model=CA53&mospid=47490&hg=11&fg=40 they're similar, but it's not quite as bad it looks like.
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Jun 5, 2014 00:24
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El Scotch posted:Since the search function is still down ( They're amazing and make stupid power with minor ECU mods.
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Jun 5, 2014 01:25
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I always start with vacuum leaks with engine issues. Recently got a MAF code + a ton of fuel trim codes...turns out my IACV hose ripped itself off and was letting in lots of unmetered air. Its always the cheapest thing to start with.
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Jun 5, 2014 01:29
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So I'm thinking of getting an e36 or e46 and was wondering if I could get some advice from some of you guys in the know. This will be a DD. I'm not going to be racing around in it or anything so I don't need an M3, but obviously it'd be nice for to have some get up and go. 1. Which is more reliable, requires less work between the e36 and e46? 2. What are some of the pro's and cons between the two. I've read that the e46 has a nicer more refined interior and more electronics. 3. What would be good years and good models for both? 325, 328, 330? I'm just trying to get a general idea of what I should be looking for. I'm looking in the Seattle-Tacoma area, if anyone has seen any good ones. -Blackadder- fucked around with this message at 01:58 on Jun 5, 2014 |
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Jun 5, 2014 01:55
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-Blackadder- posted:So I'm thinking of getting an e36 or e46 and was wondering if I could get some advice from some of you guys in the know. This will be a DD. I'm not going to be racing around in it or anything so I don't need an M3, but obviously it'd be nice for to have some get up and go. 2. All true. E46es are nicer cars overall than their E36 counterparts (I own an E36 M3 that I love, so I'm not hating on them) 3. As a rule the later the year in a model the better as the manufacturer will be working out issues. Also even for a DD there is no reason to exclude a good E36 M3 from your search unless you're really mpg-obsessed
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Jun 5, 2014 02:13
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Hi BMW guys. I'm considering picking up a ~2001 740i (most likely iL, since that's what seems to be more readily available) in a few months*. I like the styling and interior, and they do look very comfy and proper deluxe. I also like how good examples seem to be available for under $10k Canadian. I expect running costs to reflect the original price of the car, however. So about those costs... what sorts of things catch you out on 740s? Does anyone have personal experience with late model e38s? The plan would be to do most of the servicing myself with only the really big mechanical jobs being done by a good independent. Knowing myself, I'd probably keep the car for less than 5 years, but you never know. *this isn't a recommend me a car question, just doing some research into a particular model.
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Jun 5, 2014 10:11
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-Blackadder- posted:So I'm thinking of getting an e36 or e46 and was wondering if I could get some advice from some of you guys in the know. This will be a DD. I'm not going to be racing around in it or anything so I don't need an M3, but obviously it'd be nice for to have some get up and go. E46 and E36 are very similar mechanically. The biggest difference is the interior, which is night and day different and better. Mechanically, the E46 is slightly weaker in spite of its improved power output (speaking in generalities here), but both cars are so similar that it's totally ok to cross-shop. Make sure regardless of which car you get that you inspect the frame for rust and damage, especially torn subframe mounts which can cost several thousand to fix. Aside from that, make sure that the interior is 9/10 or better. Not only is it a great indicator of the car's overall shape but the interiors are really where BMW will nickel-and-dime the poo poo out of you. Make sure 100% of the electrics work, that all interior panels are securely fastened, and the seats are not in need of replacement. Mechanicals are much less important because most of the parts you'll need will either be cheap or available in a junkyard. Parts prices are definitely higher than a Honda but nothing really terrible as long as you shop around. Reliability will be dictated not by model or year or mileage but by maintenance history. This is the _only_ thing that counts on these cars. If you don't get a book of records (my 3-ring binder is probably 100+ double-sided pages), you better get a smoking price. 330i is probably the best all around choice from either model, ZHP if you compare with the M3's (opinion). Aside from that, 328s are great as well. Avoid 325/323 in either model unless price is a big factor, they're fine cars but you can do better, same with the four-pots.
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Jun 5, 2014 12:35
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El Scotch posted:Since the search function is still down ( BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 12:47 on Jun 5, 2014 |
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Jun 5, 2014 12:44
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Linedance posted:Hi BMW guys. I'm considering picking up a ~2001 740i (most likely iL, since that's what seems to be more readily available) in a few months*. I like the styling and interior, and they do look very comfy and proper deluxe. I also like how good examples seem to be available for under $10k Canadian. I expect running costs to reflect the original price of the car, however. So about those costs... what sorts of things catch you out on 740s? Does anyone have personal experience with late model e38s? The plan would be to do most of the servicing myself with only the really big mechanical jobs being done by a good independent. Knowing myself, I'd probably keep the car for less than 5 years, but you never know. I stopped looking at those after I saw a stack of repair bills where the guy selling it had put something like $25K into the car over a period of 5 years.
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Jun 5, 2014 16:10
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Das Volk posted:I stopped looking at those after I saw a stack of repair bills where the guy selling it had put something like $25K into the car over a period of 5 years. What the hell breaks on a 7-Series exactly?
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Jun 5, 2014 16:26
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"What could go wrong on a German car?"
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Jun 5, 2014 16:32
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Tab8715 posted:What the hell breaks on a 7-Series exactly? The car. Starting with every courtesy and/or electronic feature (everything from the stereo, to the soft close doors, to trunk shocks, to power seat issues, etc etc). Then the transmission or is it just in need of a software update? We'll try both and see if it gets you out of limp mode. And you're in for an extra treat if you have a 750, because the motor is also junk.
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Jun 5, 2014 16:33
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Tab8715 posted:What the hell breaks on a 7-Series exactly? Like the Mercedes S class, the 7 series is where BMW tries all of its new technologies. This means they haven't been tested for years and they aren't bulletproof. This means that they break shortly after the warranty goes out. The 7 series is something a rich person buys or leases and gets rid of a couple years later. If you want a fancy car with new technologies, get a 5 series.
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Jun 5, 2014 16:39
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Tab8715 posted:What the hell breaks on a 7-Series exactly? GDCS* for starters, it's all plastic like the other series. It requires proactive and unquestioning pre-replacement of all those parts. Do not wait for a light or a leak. Any GDCS over 4 years of use is extremely risky.  Personal experience: My pops** bought a 2001 740i as a CPO in 2004 and it massively overheated the first time going over Pacheco pass in California and the engine was pretty much poo poo after that and he had to dump it. *Goddammmned Cooling System **illogically traded in his super clean 2000 E39 528 that would still be running today, meh!
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Jun 5, 2014 17:01
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Got lost at the top of the page:Kenshin posted:If I were to want to get the glass lens upgrade kit for my E36 M3, which one should I get? Want to work on getting my M3 really good cosmetically this year. Gonna also have my mechanic keep an eye out for wrecked E36s with nice interiors to replace the seats. Getting the while thing repainted from black (original paint, lots of little scrapes and chips) to Laguna Seca Blue sometime in July. Kenshin fucked around with this message at 17:19 on Jun 5, 2014 |
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Jun 5, 2014 17:03
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Keyser S0ze posted:GDCS* for starters, it's all plastic like the other series. It requires proactive and unquestioning pre-replacement of all those parts. Do not wait for a light or a leak. Any GDCS over 4 years of use is extremely risky. So what you're saying is, if I were to look at one, ask to see the service history and find out when the cooling system was last replaced? Cojawfee posted:Like the Mercedes S class, the 7 series is where BMW tries all of its new technologies. This means they haven't been tested for years and they aren't bulletproof. This means that they break shortly after the warranty goes out. The 7 series is something a rich person buys or leases and gets rid of a couple years later. If you want a fancy car with new technologies, get a 5 series. 2001 was the last year of the e38, so I'd hope they would have worked out the bugs by then... Or is BMW not like other manufacturers in that regard...? Edit- there's also this '91 Alpina b11 (735) for sale for $10k I'm eyeing up... But that'll probably be sold by the time I move... Finger Prince fucked around with this message at 20:21 on Jun 5, 2014 |
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Jun 5, 2014 20:17
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Linedance posted:So what you're saying is, if I were to look at one, ask to see the service history and find out when the cooling system was last replaced? This is actually true of any BMW. Fantastic cars, and the cooling system works flawlessly when it is working once one thing goes, they all just time bomb together (radiator/hoses/water pump/t-stat/expansion tank/etc) and it's always a better choice to do a compete replacement at once rather than bit by bit. The coolant should also be blue, if they buy generic green coolant rather than the superior German engineered stuff it'll also cause problems throughout the whole plumbing.
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Jun 5, 2014 21:43
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I picked up my m3 tonight. Oh my god I hate the nav. On the bright side it's horrifically fast down a B road.
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Jun 5, 2014 23:38
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Thinking to take the family on a 3000mi road trip in the '02 M5 w/ 78k. GDCS is all original save the thermostat, replaced 3yrs ago @ 56k. I'm thinking about replacing some/all of the rest of the GDCS before departure. M5Board guys would say it's a waste. I think AI's wiser and I SHOULD just replace all of it, eh? Unless there's something less-cursed about the E39 GDCS..? Any comments about that Turner cooling overhaul package also appreciated. Laso water pumps known to be OK?
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Jun 5, 2014 23:44
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swampnutz posted:Thinking to take the family on a 3000mi road trip in the '02 M5 w/ 78k. GDCS is all original save the thermostat, replaced 3yrs ago @ 56k. I'm thinking about replacing some/all of the rest of the GDCS before departure. M5Board guys would say it's a waste. I've got an '03 530i with 80k, all original GDCS except for coolant. I'm scouting GDSC replacement and would hesitate to trust it the 250 miles to my wife's parent's place, round trip. I have no cause for concern, other than it's getting to the hot season and with my luck GDCS would strike. For the cost, I'd replace without a second thought before a 3k mile trip.
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Jun 5, 2014 23:51
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EVERYWHERE 
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I've got a 99 540i with 130k on it, and it doesn't look like the GDCS has ever been touched. Apparently i like to live dangerously.Bape Culture posted:I picked up my m3 tonight. Oh my god I hate the nav. Come on, we need pics.
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Jun 6, 2014 00:15
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Powershift posted:Come on, we need pics. He's embarrassed, it's sitting like a 4x4.
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Jun 6, 2014 00:22
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meatpimp posted:He's embarrassed, it's sitting like a 4x4. This!  I have my schirmer kws in the boot I just haven't decided on what 18s to get and I don't wanna pay for alignment twice as I'm from the north!!!  Imola/imola. Babes luv it.
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Jun 6, 2014 00:24
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Bape Culture posted:This! FTFY Don't slam it if you want to continue to be able to drive it on said B roads...
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Jun 6, 2014 00:44
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It's not going to be slammed as such it's going to have one of tom schirmers ring setups and square 18x10s so look a bit silly but be very fast.
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Jun 6, 2014 00:45
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Cojawfee posted:Blah blah blah I'm poor and can't afford a real luxury car and instead buy lovely garbage  There is the 7-series, and then there's everything else.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LJ9RQKUp0PY BMW SEVEN SERIES, NIGGAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
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Jun 6, 2014 01:44
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My 5 and dad's 3, both feeling sad that they're inferior motors:
meatpimp fucked around with this message at 01:53 on Jun 6, 2014 |
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Jun 6, 2014 01:49
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meatpimp posted:My 5 and dad's 3, both feeling sad that they're inferior motors: Nah inline-6s are the best. V8 engines are the tools of knuckle-dragging troglodytes.
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Jun 6, 2014 01:57
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Yes and V12 = 2*inline six so only the V12 7 series are good
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Jun 6, 2014 02:14
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Kenshin posted:Want to work on getting my M3 really good cosmetically this year. Gonna also have my mechanic keep an eye out for wrecked E36s with nice interiors to replace the seats. Getting the while thing repainted from black (original paint, lots of little scrapes and chips) to Laguna Seca Blue sometime in July. I'm in the same boat, I've done a lot to get the car up mostly to snuff and the new suspension is great. But I really wanna work on the cosmetics, there are a bunch of chips and a few small rusts spots I want to get taken care of. The trim on the windows is poo poo so I need to figure something out for that, and the front needs a protective tray as the plastic is shredded and hanging on by threads. Anyone have a ballpark on getting the car painted? It's crossed my mind as I love Laguna Seca as well. If it's not too much I could bite the bullet and have it stripped and rust spots fixed then totally repainted.
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Jun 6, 2014 02:32
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| # ? May 23, 2024 15:09 |
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Question about the GDCS: how proactively must it be replaced, and based on time or miles? I have an 08 E61 (535 wagon, first year with the n54), so it is six years old now but only has 45k miles. It's not leaking or having any issues at all, but if this thread is accurate I would expect the cooling system impeller to detonate itself randomly at any time. I am in no way mechanically inclined so I would talk to my local indie shop about the replacement, if wisdom here is to replace the system sooner rather than later. At least BMW warrantied the N54 for an extended time given all the issues it had.
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Jun 6, 2014 02:53
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