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Ignoarints posted:Nice man. I'm hoping off the shelf copper heat sinks will cut it for me. I wish I could go that far though. Any recommendations on thermal pads because I've read quite a few reports of them just falling off with what comes with them. Although they are often countered by people saying they didn't do it right. Last thing I'd want is one falling off without me knowing and I actually was running too hot since I don't have a way to monitor vrm temp
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Jun 6, 2014 19:21
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Ignoarints posted:Nice man. I'm hoping off the shelf copper heat sinks will cut it for me. I wish I could go that far though. Any recommendations on thermal pads because I've read quite a few reports of them just falling off with what comes with them. Although they are often countered by people saying they didn't do it right. Last thing I'd want is one falling off without me knowing and I actually was running too hot since I don't have a way to monitor vrm temp I don't use adhesive pad, even my custom solution was tapped for screws, honestly I could probably use regular old cream TIM but I prefer the consistency of thermal pads (and for the surface mounted VRMs you need a thick layer to insulate them properly (see a couple pages back when I burned my motherboard power traces by shorting the VRMs). I used a rebranded fujipoly pad @ 1mm thickness. deimos fucked around with this message at 19:38 on Jun 6, 2014 |
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Jun 6, 2014 19:36
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Ignoarints posted:Nice man. I'm hoping off the shelf copper heat sinks will cut it for me. I wish I could go that far though. Any recommendations on thermal pads because I've read quite a few reports of them just falling off with what comes with them. Although they are often countered by people saying they didn't do it right. Last thing I'd want is one falling off without me knowing and I actually was running too hot since I don't have a way to monitor vrm temp Does the vapor chamber come off the stock cooler on nv cards? For AMD you just heat the solder that holds the chamber to the aluminum bottom bracket and voila, separation.
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Jun 6, 2014 19:47
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deimos posted:Does the vapor chamber come off the stock cooler on nv cards? For AMD you just heat the solder that holds the chamber to the aluminum bottom bracket and voila, separation. What can you do with it separated?
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Jun 6, 2014 19:49
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deimos posted:Does the vapor chamber come off the stock cooler on nv cards? For AMD you just heat the solder that holds the chamber to the aluminum bottom bracket and voila, separation. I have no idea, and I have an MSI card which is very different from the reference cooler. I shall look
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Jun 6, 2014 19:57
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Shaocaholica posted:What can you do with it separated? You use the frame to cool the rest of the components, see my earlier posts about my VRM cooling experiments, the best results were when I re-used the bracket. edit: Not mine but: Visuals! (I used a blow torch instead of an oven to remove the chamber, and I soldered aluminum fins in the "front") deimos fucked around with this message at 20:33 on Jun 6, 2014 |
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Jun 6, 2014 20:30
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deimos posted:You use the frame to cool the rest of the components, see my earlier posts about my VRM cooling experiments, the best results were when I re-used the bracket. Seems like a lot of work and destroys the stock cooler. Did you have to use a torch?
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Jun 6, 2014 20:37
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Shaocaholica posted:Seems like a lot of work and destroys the stock cooler. Did you have to use a torch? No, you can use an oven. And good news, coolers don't have serial numbers anywhere in them, so if you get an advance replacement you can just drop the new cooler in the old card. It's honestly pretty easy, I didn't file the opening, just drilled the mounting holes in my press. It basically turns the G10 into a fully custom bracket that cools the right places perfectly. deimos fucked around with this message at 20:48 on Jun 6, 2014 |
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Jun 6, 2014 20:44
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Would it be possible to grind away the fins and stack on top of the vapor chamber? That way you'd cool the vram better. Edit: on 2nd thought, not worth the trouble. Are there any aftermarket brackets for either air or liquid? Shaocaholica fucked around with this message at 20:52 on Jun 6, 2014 |
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Jun 6, 2014 20:50
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Shaocaholica posted:Would it be possible to grind away the fins and stack on top of the vapor chamber? That way you'd cool the vram better. You can separate the fins from the chamber the same way you separate the chamber from the bracket, but for that I am pretty sure a blow torch will be better than an oven, you have to use a screw driver to separate those two while heating it up (the chamber has a much weaker attachment to the base bracket than the fins). Honestly the fins are the lovely part of the cooler, the vapor chamber seems decent enough. edit: Sup?  deimos fucked around with this message at 22:12 on Jun 6, 2014 |
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Jun 6, 2014 21:08
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Err hasn't the xtreme IV been out for a bit already? edit: oh I read above post as 'coming out' not arriving personally. Shaocaholica fucked around with this message at 22:06 on Jun 6, 2014 |
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Jun 6, 2014 21:23
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Shaocaholica posted:Err hasn't the xtreme IV been out for a bit already? Yes: first available March 3.
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Jun 6, 2014 21:33
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I'm not sure if I like the back plate mounting mech on the Xtreme IV. Seems really hacky. Also, is there any room under the main cooler for low profile vram and vrm heatsinks?
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Jun 6, 2014 22:08
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deimos posted:You can separate the fins from the chamber the same way you separate the chamber from the bracket, but for that I am pretty sure a blow torch will be better than an oven, you have to use a screw driver to separate those two while heating it up (the chamber has a much weaker attachment to the base bracket than the fins). I knew 290s ran hot wow
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Jun 6, 2014 22:08
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Welmu posted:Yes: first available March 3. Err well I misread something, thought it came out more recently.
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Jun 6, 2014 22:11
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Sorry for the low effort post here, but this is unfamiliar territory for me. Can anybody estimate a rough cost for custom water cooling two 780tis and a CPU? I'm starting to wonder now if it's just worth going for. Once I add up the costs of 2x AIO's + 1 I have already, little heatsinks and stuff, 2x water brackets, the cost seems to get pretty up there. I was in Microcenter buying a case and saw real watercooling kits I thought were only available online and it just struck me. I remember seeing waterblocks and scoffing at the prices in general but the difference might not to be TOO off I guess. And if it's not too bad I might be willing to do it for peace of mind for VRM's, etc. Edit: The case, btw, was a NZXT H440. A major loving headache picking a case I must say. It was all complicated by the fact my cheap antec 300(2) has excellent airflow for whatever reason and I didn't want to take a step back. The best airflow cases for overclocking, it seemed, were either mega huge, sacrificed GPU temps for CPU temps and vice versa, or extremely ugly. I have a pretty good ugly computer tolerance but I just couldn't deal with the Phantom 630 and something else that was even "better" but looked like a transformers 7 racist-bot. H440 looks sleek as hell, just a tad of rice, supports the radiators I want, airflow is at least good to decent (but consistent), and plenty of room. "Bad" news is no optical bay which is admittedly weird for the size and the PSU area is strangely restrictive but shouldn't be any issue for me. I think I've thrown away every driver cd I've gotten in the last year so I gave up the bay. I guess I'll get some kind of USB enclosure for the one I have if I need it for whatever reason, if that's a thing. Looking forward to filling this case up with tubes and stuff. Now I kind of wish my ram wasn't blue... which is something I just couldn't have given a poo poo about ever in my life. But red/black case, red/black mobo, red/black GPU all by chance, then random blue rear end ram. I wish it were lovely ram as it is many years old now, but its not... can't possibly justify buying new ram. Ignoarints fucked around with this message at 15:58 on Jun 8, 2014 |
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Jun 8, 2014 15:38
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One thing to consider is that full-cover waterblocks are rarely transferrable to new cards since they're custom-fitted for specific reference models. As a result they generally can't be reused later and they'll usually have gently caress-all resale value unless you manage to sell the card(s) with the coolers.
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Jun 8, 2014 15:55
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cisco privilege posted:One thing to consider is that full-cover waterblocks are rarely transferrable to new cards since they're custom-fitted for specific reference models. As a result they generally can't be reused later and they'll usually have gently caress-all resale value unless you manage to sell the card(s) with the coolers. Alright good enough for me right off the bat, thanks. And I just took a look at the price of two waterblocks and its already around the cost of the entire setup I was planning to have with AIO's. Resale is pretty important to me and I didn't even think about that.
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Jun 8, 2014 16:00
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Rough minimum cost for a custom loop is ~$500.
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Jun 8, 2014 18:36
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Ignoarints posted:Sorry for the low effort post here, but this is unfamiliar territory for me. Can anybody estimate a rough cost for custom water cooling two 780tis and a CPU? I'm starting to wonder now if it's just worth going for. Once I add up the costs of 2x AIO's + 1 I have already, little heatsinks and stuff, 2x water brackets, the cost seems to get pretty up there. I was in Microcenter buying a case and saw real watercooling kits I thought were only available online and it just struck me. I have a kraken x40 for my 780 with a g10 bracket and a kraken x60 for my 4770k in my h440. setup was real easy and it looks good imho  the nzxt fans are loud as hell though, the noctuas I replaced them with makes the whole thing completely silent, even under load
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Jun 8, 2014 22:43
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So, I'm pretty drat new to this overclocking thing. I'm actually in the market for a new build, and intend on overclocking that so I've been reading about it. That being said, I downloaded some CPU temp software and found my stock 2500k processor was running at 3.3 ghz at 95deg Celsius. Soooo. That's pretty drat hot. Luckily I had a hyper 212 evo laying around that I never installed. I had the Sunday, and installed it. Seemed to install well, felt pretty tight (a little tiny bit of wiggle but hardly movement). I started up the computer and saw that my stock temps were like, 45deg C at like 20% load. I started overclocking a bit getting to 4.2ghz at 1.25V with idle temps around 44 and max at 52deg when gaming. By the looks of what I saw online, this seems a bit high temp. Then again, for god knows what reason my chip has been running at 95 degrees for probably months prior to this. Does this sound incredibly hosed? Like I said I'm in a market for a new rig, but this one will go to my little brother and I definitely want him to have a good comp too.
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Jun 9, 2014 01:58
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52C is not remotely hot for full load.
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Jun 9, 2014 02:14
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His gaming is probably not really close to being "full load" in the sense that's usually used in OCing (talking about IBT or Prime95 stress testing temperatures), but yes, those temps are perfectly fine.
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Jun 9, 2014 02:19
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beejay posted:52C is not remotely hot for full load. Well I ran 5 rounds of intel burn on standard mode (which puts the cup at 100%) and it looks like the temperature highs it made during that time were around 75•C.
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Jun 9, 2014 06:23
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As long as that's the highest reading for a single CPU core in IBT that's fine. If it's the "CPU" temp the cores are likely reading higher than that.
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Jun 9, 2014 07:20
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cisco privilege posted:As long as that's the highest reading for a single CPU core in IBT that's fine. If it's the "CPU" temp the cores are likely reading higher than that. Again, excuse my terrible understanding of this, but where would I see the overall CPU temp? I would run the ITB with RealTemp and just watched where the temp was. The 4 diff cores had about a 75*C temp give or take 3 degrees or so. What's the difference between those four temperatures, and the "CPU" temp. Is it like, overall vs. just the cores? I guess all I really wanna know is how to gauge if I'm in a danger zone or not. And if not, if it's okay to keep moving up the clock speed?
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Jun 9, 2014 13:49
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DirtyTalk posted:Again, excuse my terrible understanding of this, but where would I see the overall CPU temp? I would run the ITB with RealTemp and just watched where the temp was. The 4 diff cores had about a 75*C temp give or take 3 degrees or so. I'd try to keep maximum core temps under 80C in max IBT if at all possible as you'll never see anything that high in normal usage. The closest temperatures might be during multithreaded CPU transcoding or something but still well below your max temps.
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Jun 9, 2014 16:01
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cisco privilege posted:That's fine. Realtemp gave you per-core measurements. Some measuring tools like HWiNFO also give a "CPU" die/package reading which isn't as accurate, but you have the right numbers there. Thanks again - makes a bit more sense to me now. I suppose I'll start trying to slowly increment up and test to see how much further I can go without going much higher on full load.
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Jun 9, 2014 16:26
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So for extreme cooling like liquid nitrogen or phase change, would it be possible to eliminate condensation with just a medium sized fan pointing at the offending areas? Condensation will still form but it should evaporate pretty quickly from the constant moving air. Seems a lot less messier than petroleum jelly and other oil based coatings.
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Jun 10, 2014 00:27
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I have a question. I have one of those Steam Machine beta units, and eventually (Skylake-ish?) I'll need to upgrade the processor. My question is how I can do any sort of good cooling or water cooling. I've never worked in anything this small or with water. Here's what I'm working with: 
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Jun 10, 2014 00:36
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Endymion FRS MK1 posted:I have a question. I have one of those Steam Machine beta units, and eventually (Skylake-ish?) I'll need to upgrade the processor. My question is how I can do any sort of good cooling or water cooling. I've never worked in anything this small or with water. Here's what I'm working with: A water block with the radiator outside the case is the only option I can imagine.
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Jun 10, 2014 00:48
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The ML07 fits a single 120mm rad with thin fans IIRC. Also the case has surprisingly good airflow, so you can get healthy overclocks if you use a low profile CPU cooler like the Heligon (NT06-Pro).
deimos fucked around with this message at 01:33 on Jun 10, 2014 |
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Jun 10, 2014 00:59
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Oh ok, I can live with an external radiator. As long as I have a small case to cart between my TV and my computer desk I'm good. Water cooling would also be possible for my GPU by adding it to the loop too correct?
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Jun 10, 2014 01:42
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I'd love to see a high end steam box with the same form factor but custom mainboard, PSU and watercooling. Something thats extremely well space optimized.
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Jun 10, 2014 01:58
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Okay - so I tried to continue to step it up. Went to 4.3Ghz @ 1.25V. Ran ITB a few times and temps never got over 75*C. Went to go play Wildstar, about 30 minutes in, I BSOD'd. Now, from what I've been told about overclocking is you step up the multiplier, test, repeat, and then when you BSOD you up the voltage. I can't find anywhere in what increments to step up voltage. I went up to 1.27V after the BSOD and haven't run into anything just yet. The core temps while playing Wildstar are hovering around 50*C. How do I increment voltage? At what point do I finally decide that I've hit a wall?
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Jun 10, 2014 02:23
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 lovely pic but just transplanted my computer into the new case. Reduced my IBT temps by about 7 degrees, which I'm ecstatic about. I wasn't sure how much if any difference I'd see. Perhaps now with a better cooler and lapping I can use those few degrees to bump it up a notch. My focus now will be watercooling that gpu and see how much I can overclock that, and figuring out how to unlock the voltage on it since I failed once already. Never cared much about looks, especially inside, but it is pleasing when pieces I put together over months happen to have the same black/red color scheme by pure luck. Although its kind of hard to see there, especially the motherboard red heat sink spam and the MSI card. And all except for the blue ram lol It's overall quieter except for the CPU pump is clearly louder. I have no idea why that would be  DirtyTalk posted:Okay - so I tried to continue to step it up. Went to 4.3Ghz @ 1.25V. Ran ITB a few times and temps never got over 75*C. Went to go play Wildstar, about 30 minutes in, I BSOD'd. Edit: I seriously mistyped here, do not increase by 0.10v lol - 0.010 is the "fast" route. 0.005 is recommended. I always use 0.010 though... It sounds like you'll hit a thermal limit before voltage limit so I'd increase it and test stability until your IBT is in the mid 80's and stop there. edit: and I forgot to say, 1.30 is a somewhat conservative voltage limit, 1.35 is "pushing" it (but honestly, imo, fine), most people dont go over 1.36-1.37 for 24/7 use. You can go all the way up to 1.45 or so before you can expect quick death but it is bad for it. Ignoarints fucked around with this message at 06:21 on Jun 10, 2014 |
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Jun 10, 2014 04:53
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Ignoarints posted:
Air bubble, run your system flat (mobo down) for a while.
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Jun 10, 2014 05:22
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deimos posted:Air bubble, run your system flat (mobo down) for a while. Oh thanks, I'll do that edit: it is very odd. its all the same noises I'm used to, just louder. I wonder if it's resonating through the case through these particular standoffs. Ignoarints fucked around with this message at 07:00 on Jun 10, 2014 |
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Jun 10, 2014 06:19
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Is there any significant downside to running a Hyper 212 with the fan sucking instead of blowing, as seen in these pictures of the SilverStone Temjin TJ08e case? 
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Jun 11, 2014 06:09
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Cardboard Box A posted:Is there any significant downside to running a Hyper 212 with the fan sucking instead of blowing, as seen in these pictures of the SilverStone Temjin TJ08e case? Going off of this post it doesn't look like using a fan to pull air through it instead of pushing has very much difference in overall cooling: http://www.overclock.net/t/1199135/hyper-212-testing-push-vs-pull-vs-push-pull-also-horizontal-vs-vertical-positioning quote:Push using 2000RPM Blademaster
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