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Coydog posted:Oh yeah 2nd gen has a digital temp readout, which I really enjoy. I know exactly how soon and how much I can play, as well as monitor temps on hot days/stoplights. FYI oil takes about twice as long to get to temperature as coolant, which is what the gauge measures, and oil is what you want warm before you wail on it.
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Jun 9, 2014 04:22
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MetaJew posted:Well I took it for a ride and the brakes are still spongy. I bled the front brakes with a mityvac and went back and forth several times. Should I try bleeding some fluid by cracking open the banjo bolt at the MC? I'm not sure how to firm them up. For sure. This is the reason I love nicer radial brake MC's on sport bikes and such. They come with a nice convenient bleeder nipple on the MC that makes getting the brakes rock solid a no-brainer. Try the banjo method and then maybe go back and tap on the lines to unseat any bubbles in there. Other than that I usually try giving the bike a ride for a day and then come back to bleed them again once the vibrations have done a little work (hopefully) on any bubbles or anything in there. I also bought speed bleeders so it's dead simple to just pop the tubing on there, loosen them a bit and pump the brakes to get them back to solid feel.
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Jun 9, 2014 17:21
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Nur_Neerg posted:Yeah you keep the stock cables. Really all you need to do is shave down a portion of the tabs on the new throttle. Just bought the tube!
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Jun 9, 2014 21:05
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Baller Witness Bro posted:For sure. This is the reason I love nicer radial brake MC's on sport bikes and such. They come with a nice convenient bleeder nipple on the MC that makes getting the brakes rock solid a no-brainer. Son of a bitch. I really wasted the evening trying to get my zen-and-the-art-of-motorcycle-maintenance on. My T-Rex Racing no-cut frame sliders arrived today, along with a set of their slider spools. Installing the slider spools was a no brainer and took less than 2 minutes to do. I then popped off the plastics to do the rest of the work. Long story short, T-Rex Racing sent me an incomplete package. Not only was I missing the long bolt that runs through the width of the engine, I'm also missing several other parts like washers, and a bolt appears to be longer than what's described in the instructions. In addition, one of the brackets looks defective, or different than what's in their photos. I just sent them an email along with photos of what I received. Hopefully they'll do me right and ship me a new package of parts. However, when I was emailing them last week to get details about their products, I would ask two or three questions and get a terse one or two sentence response back answering only one of them. So, now I'm not confident about their customer service. I had high hopes for a company that was based in Texas. I tried bleeding at the banjo bolt, followed by more bleeding at the calipers, and the lever never really firmed up to what I'm looking for. I swear it felt, at one point, like the lever was really firm, but later I went and grabbed it and it felt spongy again with more travel than I like. I put it away for tonight with a zip tie around the lever, and I'll check for leaks tomorrow morning. Edit: After taking a brake (  ) overnight, I think the brakes are good enough. I'd like them to be even firmer, but I think I've got them set up well enough. I need to take another test ride on it.Also, I attempted to set up the sag on my bike today, and got it to where I think it should be. A funny thing I noticed, however, was that it seems like the rear spring has very little pre-load on it. According to Ohlins, the spring appears to be about the right rate for my weight, and the sag seems about right, though. I'll need to do some more riding, and maybe eventually take it to the suspension guy in town. Ohlins posted:01096-21: standard spring that comes on the shock. Fits "dressed" rider weight of 155-175#. 428lbs/in MetaJew fucked around with this message at 03:25 on Jun 11, 2014 |
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Jun 10, 2014 06:18
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opengl128 posted:FYI oil takes about twice as long to get to temperature as coolant, which is what the gauge measures, and oil is what you want warm before you wail on it. Oops. Good to know thank you. So I've been filling my tires wrong by accident. I know how to fill tires, but somehow that all went out the window where the bike was concerned. I've been filling them about 8-12psi over recommended for the past 4 months. Always at least 5psi below max, though. In what way have I damaged my tires?
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Jun 10, 2014 07:41
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I'm really curious as to how you fill them wrong? I'm still on my first bike but I've always just topped them up to 33psi front and 36 rear after a few miles to warm them up a bit . Is that not right?
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Jun 10, 2014 10:02
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I think what he means is he was running them slightly under the max pressure the tire can take rather than what the manufacturer recommends for the bike. You won't have as much traction running on a higher pressure, but unless that causes you to lowside then you really shouldn't have any damage to the tire. If anything it would make the tire wear less.
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Jun 10, 2014 10:10
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Thank you. I feel much better now. I took em back down to the manufacturer recommended specs. No traction issues with them, but its hot here and the tires are new pr3. This is really a win win. I wore them a bit less, and avoided a low side. It's good that I fixed them though as I'm doing a LOT of leaning and hard turns now that I'm more comfortable with the bike. It handles like magic. I should calm it down, though.
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Jun 10, 2014 19:48
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I'm looking to buy some Titax replicas off Ebay, which years will fit my 2003 S? I know the 2003 is the mongrel year, and according to the part numbers the gen 1 uses one set of levers, 2003-2005 uses another and 2006 onward uses a third. But then I find sites that says levers will fit all gen 2s. And for that matter (just to double check), I'm assuming the levers are the same between the S and N? Second question, if I'm looking for rearsets, do I have to get 2003-specific ones, since the shifter and foot brake is some weird mix between gen 1 and 2?
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Jun 10, 2014 20:33
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Coydog posted:Thank you. I feel much better now. I took em back down to the manufacturer recommended specs. No traction issues with them, but its hot here and the tires are new pr3. This is really a win win. I wore them a bit less, and avoided a low side. Confidence increases quicker than skill level.
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Jun 10, 2014 21:04
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Anyone selling a complete headlight and bracket for a 2nd gen naked?
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Jun 11, 2014 05:09
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nsaP posted:Confidence increases quicker than skill level. And it's a BITCH. The last thing in the world I need is a crash. I really need to calm it the gently caress down ASAP. I mean I'm not dragging knee, or riding at 90% or anything, but still.
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Jun 11, 2014 05:57
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Coydog posted:And it's a BITCH. The last thing in the world I need is a crash. I really need to calm it the gently caress down ASAP. I mean I'm not dragging knee, or riding at 90% or anything, but still. Ride with someone fast and it'll give you some perspective. It's pretty easy to start thinking you're a badass with no frame of reference and then you go ride with faster folks and realize your knee is 4ft from the ground and what you used to consider "hanging off" is actually just your butt scooted 3 inches to the left. The track is great for this.
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Jun 11, 2014 06:58
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HI don't know if I need help riding more aggressively at the moment. I more need a recording of nsap saying discouraging words to me while I ride.
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Jun 11, 2014 18:44
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Coydog posted:HI don't know if I need help riding more aggressively at the moment. I more need a recording of nsap saying discouraging words to me while I ride. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=nagging+whiny+bitch There ya go boss.
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Jun 11, 2014 23:53
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I want to update my suspension on my 2005 sv650s to something a little more adjustable. I was thinking of going with a rear shock from a zx14 and this drop in kit from Traxxion dynamics. I'm planning on doing a track day with it but not until November, I figured it'd make more sense to change my suspension before the track day so I was used to it. Is this worth doing or am I just swapping parts/spending money to no purpose? It's worth noting that I'm not really a good enough rider to identify any weaknesses in the suspension. I can tell the difference between when I adjusted the pre-load in the rear back to a setting more appropriate for my weight from the minimum pre-load I was using to sink the rear to make it easier for me to flat foot it, but that's about it.
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Jun 12, 2014 00:46
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M. Night Skymall posted:I want to update my suspension on my 2005 sv650s to something a little more adjustable. I was thinking of going with a rear shock from a zx14 and this drop in kit from Traxxion dynamics. I'm planning on doing a track day with it but not until November, I figured it'd make more sense to change my suspension before the track day so I was used to it. Is this worth doing or am I just swapping parts/spending money to no purpose? Yeah, it's definitely worth doing.
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Jun 12, 2014 00:48
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M. Night Skymall posted:I want to update my suspension on my 2005 sv650s to something a little more adjustable. I was thinking of going with a rear shock from a zx14 and this drop in kit from Traxxion dynamics. I'm planning on doing a track day with it but not until November, I figured it'd make more sense to change my suspension before the track day so I was used to it. Is this worth doing or am I just swapping parts/spending money to no purpose? The suspension is the weakest part of the SV by far, it is a worthy upgrade. Not sure about buying the used shock, it might need to be refreshed. Any reason you're not doing the ZX-6R shock? The ZX-14 ones are for fatties. At the track, they usually have suspension specialists that will set the bike up for a minimal cost ($20-40) and will get it as best as your suspension can be for your weight. xaarman fucked around with this message at 02:52 on Jun 12, 2014 |
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Jun 12, 2014 02:48
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xaarman posted:The suspension is the weakest part of the SV by far, it is a worthy upgrade. Not sure about buying the used shock, it might need to be refreshed. Any reason you're not doing the ZX-6R shock? The ZX-14 ones are for fatties. No reason for the ZX-14 other than availability, I think a lot of people go with the 2006-2007 ZX-10R rear shock but it's basically impossible to find now as a result. I'm less than 150 in gear so not exactly heavy. I couldn't find a good calculator for rear shock spring rates. The ZX-14 shock is also the same length as the stock shock which is nice, I'm short so I'd prefer not to raise it above stock height if I can avoid it. According to this spreadsheet, most model years of the ZX-6R have a stiffer spring rate than the ZX-14. I was also considering the GSX-R1000 shock but it looks like it's a lot harder to install than the ZX-14.
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Jun 12, 2014 03:28
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I had mentioned earlier that I ordered the T-Rex Racing No Cut Frame Sliders for my 08 SV650SF. They showed up on Monday, and that evening I tried to install them. Only I discovered that the package I received was missing several parts, and one of the brackets did not look right to me. They sent me one bolt that was the wrong length, left out several washers, and completely failed to send the new bar/bolt I would need that runs through the width of the engine.  (It should look like this) So, I couldn't install sliders if I wanted to. But, as I said, the bracket for the right side of the bike looked a little funny, also. The right bracket is the long narrow one. I think those cylindrical spacers are all supposed to be welded to the brackets, but one of them was just loose in the package.    I've emailed them and I think they're going to send me the missing pieces, but responses via email have been slower than I would hope for. I'm still not sure if the Motosliders frame sliders would've been a better purchase-- they are basically twice as expensive. Edit: I found this installation guide that seems to confirm my suspicion on the bracket being defective: http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139369 MetaJew fucked around with this message at 06:25 on Jun 12, 2014 |
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Jun 12, 2014 06:11
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If my Goldwing sells fast enough I'll make the 4 hour drive to pick this up. http://ottumwa.craigslist.org/mcy/4506127861.html
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Jun 12, 2014 18:50
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I've got the bug again after a few years of not having a bike. First ride was an 83 gs1100. Tell me if this is a horrible idea. http://syracuse.craigslist.org/mcy/4484408179.html Edit: I'm moderately handy, how much pain are the carbs on a first gen going to cause me over the long run? Zosologist fucked around with this message at 19:43 on Jun 12, 2014 |
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Jun 12, 2014 19:37
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Don't use that helmet and the jacket is the ugliest thing. Otherwise the bike looks good, but the price is a bit high. You could spend a bit more and get a second gen.
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Jun 12, 2014 19:55
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Unfortunately pickings are kinda slim in upstate New York this time of year everything else around is either ugly or expensive and my budget is around 2k.
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Jun 12, 2014 20:02
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Well, you aren't really going to find a second gen under 2k that you would want to own. Maybe offer that guy 1600? Can you not just wait until a really good one pops up? The SV is an excellent bike, but there is no need to settle. EDIT Question: I have to do my rear pads this weekend. I've done pads on all sorts of cars, and its not really a big deal. Just time consuming and tedious. I found a guide video for how to do the sv1k, and that seems similar to mine. Basically, I shouldn't be dreading or daunted by this, right? It's probably going to be a cakewalk? Second question- When I put my yoshi on, I got all these awesome burbles and pops (which I love) but my average MPG went down to the mid/low 30s, instead of high 40s. I can't tell if I just hoon it more and to hear the exhaust, or if I'm running rich and spitting unburnt fuel out all over and being wasteful. Will a power commander bring my mpg way up like they should be? It's a big expense I don't really need at the moment, but may pay for itself if I use like a third less gas afterwards. Coydog fucked around with this message at 03:58 on Jun 13, 2014 |
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Jun 12, 2014 20:29
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I dropped my bike on gravel and broke my right rearset and rear brake lever... Anyone have a spare right rearset? Or know where to get an OEM set online besides ebay?
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Jun 15, 2014 20:42
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If you're in the UK wemoto have none-OEM replacements. The other alternative is to find your nearest Suzuki parts re-seller.
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Jun 19, 2014 12:57
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So when I bought my bike a few weeks ago, the brakes felt like crap. Lots of flushing, and a set of front Galfer SS lines later, they felt better but still not great. Today I removed the calipers and cleaned the piston surfaces with soapy water and a tooth brush, and I cycled the pistons in and out several times. I initially found that the pistons were binding, and only one was coming out of the caliper. Now they both move nearly synchronously, and I feel pressure developing in the brake lever much sooner than I did before cleaning them. I highly recommend you guys clean your brakes. It definitely won't hurt, and it took me maybe 30-45 minutes to do. Here are some guides: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aHtxBI8NEMg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sbr7Eo4RSvo SV Specific guide (sort of): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SH_fq5xgda0
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Jun 20, 2014 07:24
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I'm planning on doing an oil/filter change and radiator flush this weekend on my new-to-me SV650 and I'm noticing in the service manual torque specifications for the oil drain plug and the water drain bolt. Do I need to buy a torque wrench for these?
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Jun 20, 2014 21:12
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I finally got my frame sliders installed. It was pretty straight forward, however, the M10 washers that T-Rex says to put on the bolt that holds the slider to the bracket was too big to actually fit inside the slider, so I reused some sliders that were on the OEM engine mount bolts. Hope that works out alright.  I'm going to have to remove them to reinstall the plastics, but I was planning on doing an oil change and coolant flush first. And, I was also going to try to patch/seal a crack in the fairing from when the PO dropped it. Speaking of coolant flushes, do you need to remove the S headlights/cowl in order to get to the radiator cap or can it be drained and filled without removing it? Also, is there anything special about draining/filling the overflow tank? Spankydoodle posted:I'm planning on doing an oil/filter change and radiator flush this weekend on my new-to-me SV650 and I'm noticing in the service manual torque specifications for the oil drain plug and the water drain bolt. Do I need to buy a torque wrench for these? You should have a torque wrench so that you don't overtighten and strip things. But that's just my opinion.
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Jun 26, 2014 07:22
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Just wiggle the cap out from under there. I guess you could take off that fairing but I don't see any reason. You can angle a funnel in usually to fill it back up. As for the overflow if it's already empty I usually fill it ~halfway when flushing coolant. If it's full you'll probably have to disconnect the tubing and drain it out. I've used my brake bleeder before to pump out the coolant by dropping in a hose so I don't have to unbolt it but YMMV. Some bikes wedge the overflow into some rear end in a top hat places.
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Jun 26, 2014 14:52
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Hello, first bike younger than me. http://imgur.com/7bprjEe
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Jun 26, 2014 16:43
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Very pretty, looks like mine did when I bought it, except way cleaner. Now it looks like this (subtle mods):   except I have SS lines on the front now.
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Jun 26, 2014 17:08
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Welp. I bit the bullet and got a 2003 SV650N today. My... 5th bike now, if I'm counting right. It came with Suburban Machinery bars and I don't like the way they feel and I imagine impact the steering. Anyone have some stock bars lying around? I am surprised none are listed on the svrider forums, but maybe they just don't carry that much residual value? Also, I'm about to pull the trigger on some Pilot Road 4's. I do almost all city/commuting riding, but don't really do a lot of wet riding if I can help it. Can I get a cheaper tire that wont kill me if I get caught out in the wet, but still has good cornering ability and decent life before flat-spotting in the middle from city riding? Edit: full list of modzzzzz ZX-10r shock and new fork springs/oil set up for a ~190lb. rider (I weigh 195 so it's good for me) aTRE Suburban machinery bars Pazzo adjustable shorty levers Shortened + gutted stock exhaust (sounds great, maybe too loud) Sprockets are 15 in the front, 47 rear (+2) OEM rear tire hugger and cowl (passenger seat included) Home made undertail (by previous owner) Frame sliders and spools on rear Bar end mirrors Angled valve stems No glamour shots yet, but here's one from outside: 
ShaneB fucked around with this message at 20:13 on Jun 28, 2014 |
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Jun 28, 2014 19:48
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Coydog posted:MetaJew- Look here for the r6 throttle tube info. http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/bike/r6-throttle.php
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Jun 29, 2014 00:21
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So my brother had a spare 2006 R6 throttle tube lying around after swapping a motion pro unit. I followed the Canyon Chasers guide that the svrider.com guys reference, and since I have a 2008 S model, I trimmed down the stops on the R6 tube. After trying to reinstall the throttle tube and the housing that clamps holds it all together, I found that it was very difficult to get the two halves to squeeze together. On top of that, if I threaded the screws and tried to open and close the throttle, it was sticky and horrible. So, what gives? The stock throttle is butter smooth on my bike. I would like to have the shortened pull to WOT, but not at the expense of having my throttle feel like it could get stuck open or something. Edit: Maybe the tension on my throttle cables is too tight? The SVRider forums, despite being pretty big, seem kind of lovely for these sorts of problems. MetaJew fucked around with this message at 07:38 on Jul 1, 2014 |
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Jul 1, 2014 07:33
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MetaJew posted:So my brother had a spare 2006 R6 throttle tube lying around after swapping a motion pro unit. I followed the Canyon Chasers guide that the svrider.com guys reference, and since I have a 2008 S model, I trimmed down the stops on the R6 tube. You're right, it's your throttle cables. The inner circumference the cables wrap around on the R6 throttle is bigger than stock so you need to loosen the cables a bit. You should be able to get away with adjusting them at the throttle without having to go in got the engine.
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Jul 1, 2014 09:43
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Mine's a first gen but I had to adjust the cable slack ALL the way out when I put the R6 tube on mine. It was a little tight to begin with so I had to loosen the adjusters at the carb too. The other thing I found is that the throttle housing has a nub on the underside that fits into a hole in the bars, to lock it into position. I missed that the first time and I couldn't get it all back together until I repositioned it so the, uh, nub fit into the hole.
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Jul 1, 2014 14:28
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ReformedNiceGuy posted:You're right, it's your throttle cables. The inner circumference the cables wrap around on the R6 throttle is bigger than stock so you need to loosen the cables a bit. You should be able to get away with adjusting them at the throttle without having to go in got the engine. You were absolutely right. I loosened up the cable that opens the throttle, and put everything together and it feels great. Now, however, the adjustment is maxed out at the throttle end. If I wanted to add any more slack or play into the throttle, I'd need to go make more adjustments at the throttle bodies. But for now it feels great. I also put on a pair of tank pads that I picked up off a guy that sells them on SVRider. These are made by a guy who goes by the username "BigHammer". I like how they sort of blend in with the tank.  On another note, has anyone with an 07+ bike tried balancing the throttles? I've read that it is a service item in the manual, but to do it on 07+ bikes you have to have some Suzuki cable or computer. On the earlier bikes, I read that you could do it the same way that you balance carbs-- with a pair of hoses and some oil and that all attached to some vacuum lines or something.
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Jul 4, 2014 02:07
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Did a few things on the new bike last evening. First was checking the idle speed and adjusting the throttle position sensor. This was surprisingly straightforward and only required ordering a torx security set off Amazon. My bike was supplying more fuel at a really high 4,000 RPM instead of 1,450 or so as it should, I guess. So some minute adjustments got it back to that. I couldn't test it because my valve stem is cracked and the tires aren't holding air. But new stems and tires go on Saturday. I also replaced the dumb Suburban Machinery bars with some superbike bars, which was harder than expected. All the cables are just long enough to reach the bars, and I put some things on in the wrong order, so it was a pain. But in the end everything is on and feels a lot more ergonomic. Can't wait to get the new tires on and put this thing through the paces.
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Jul 4, 2014 16:24
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