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Hey Subargoons! I have a 2014 Legacy and was thinking of getting a roof rack for it. I may also need to put a kayak up there later if I buy one. I'm thinking OEM and not aftermarket because I'd like to not scuff the hell out of my roof and void my warranty. What OEM parts should I order for the roof, or am I totally going about this the wrong way? Would a hitch-mounted rack be better, along with some other solution for the kayak? Thanks!
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Jun 20, 2014 20:22
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Bajaha posted:That would be your security module, guessing yours came equipped with the security package, could also be keyless entry module but that usually sits by the passenger a pillar behind the dash if I'm not mistaken. It is a security module because the car has an alarm. Guess it's time to go searching for removal instructions online.
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Jun 20, 2014 20:27
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Strange, that recall isn't new - it came about 2 years ago in the US. Wonder why Canada is so far behind.
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Jun 20, 2014 20:31
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Subaru just rebrands Yakima rails.
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Jun 20, 2014 22:30
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Much as I am loving my new STI, the stock shifter had to go. Enter jamal, who hooked me up with a sweet deal on a Kartboy short shifter and a full set of new bushings. Top: stock shifter, mushy and agricultural. Bottom: Kartboy short shifter, made of flowers and rainbows (if the online reviews are to be believed). Pulling the shifter is straightforward enough, but the bearings are a bit more work.  You are basically replacing everything labelled in red. Picture courtesy of jamal. D and E are not too bad, but getting to the ones at A (there is actually another pair in front of those, not pictured) requires you to either figure out some way to unbolt it from the bushing bracket, or drive out the pin that holds the entire linkage to the transmission. I went with the second option, as it's drat tight under there and I wasn't too keen on forcing the transmission down from its proper place, which is what it would have taken. Fortunately I had a set of non-tapered pin punches left over from an AR-15 build. I would not advise taking on this task without them, as there's also a roll pin that holds the reverse lockout collar onto the shifter that needs to come out too. From what I can tell, a lot of people don't bother with replacing the A bushings because it has the reputation of being a lot of extra work. Having done it, I'd do it again -- dropping the whole linkage makes reassembly a lot easier, as there's suddenly lots of space to see and work. The hardest bit of the whole install was bolting bushing E back to the inside of the tranny tunnel, and that would have been even harder if I had not had the extra working room from dropping the linkage. After buttoning it all back up, I took it for a spin. The lower shift knob position actually doesn't make all that much difference to me, but then I have long ape arms. Shifts were nice, but there was still quite a lot of side-to-side slop and although it was better, I was expecting a bit more of an improvement given all the praise heaped on the parts. To cut a fairly short story a little shorter, some clown had forgotten to tighten the bolt that goes through the bushings on the shifter itself, under the leather boot. I do not advise doing this. It will make you think "Well, this is nice, but I don't really see what all the fuss was about" when you test drive it. And it will make an unsettling rattle in the higher gears which goes away when you clamp your hand round the boot. After getting home from work the next day I resolved to figure out why it was not as OMG AWESOMEBALLS as I had been lead to believe and began retracing my steps. Fortunately I didn't have to go far, as it would have sucked to have had to start pulling tranny braces and things again. With the bolt tightened up...yeah, it's every bit as good as they say. It snicks home with barely a thought. Even the troublesome 4-5 shift is easy. I find myself dancing around the box on corner approach even when I'm not really driving hard, just for the fun of shifting. It has also acquired a sweet transmission whine, most pronounced in gears 1 through 3, but still just about audible in higher gears too. I rather like that, but I'm a bit of a child about cool car noises. tldr: get one. From jamal, too, because he's cheap and awesome and sends you cool diagrams and stuff.
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Jun 21, 2014 00:44
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Question! What the hell causes repeat valve cover leaks? I just had the gaskets changed and the passenger side is still leaking onto my headers. Is a failed blowby system to be suspected?
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Jun 22, 2014 19:02
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What are the 2 things on either side of Blobeye STI front bumpers that aren't on normal WRXS called? Splitters?  The bit of plastic with the lump on it I mean. Compare that picture to: 
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Jun 23, 2014 03:17
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Canards? I'm unsure if an application that small plays the same valuable role though.
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Jun 23, 2014 03:34
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The clutch pedal pad just wore through and fell off on my '03 outback. What's a parts site that has a search function that will actually allow me to locate said part. I've been having no luck so far.
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Jun 23, 2014 03:49
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Opposed Forces has the parts diagrams you're looking for. Should be 36015GA111.
Naked Bear fucked around with this message at 05:05 on Jun 23, 2014 |
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Jun 23, 2014 05:00
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opposedforces has the exploded parts diagrams with most of the part numbers listed below, don't know if it has a search function. Alternatively you can stop by a local junkyard and pull one off of another subaru, all the pedals should be the same size for every year, I know the 2010 WRX pedal pads fit perfectly on my 03 Baja. efb and with a link.
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Jun 23, 2014 05:02
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How serviceable is the DCCD in a GV (2012) STi? I was in an accident; after the repair shop finished their work, the DCCD faults out ~20 seconds after I hit the 60 mph - whether sustained at that speed or just briefly at it and then back under 60, once I exceed 60 the indicator starts flashing a few seconds later. Insurance has told me to take it to a dealer and have them look at it to determine whether it's normal wear or accident related; the dealer I selected has access to my entire service history and can see that I follow the recommended severe driving maintenance schedule to the letter, up to the 46k miles I'm at right now. Is it something they can open up and look at, or is it a sealed thing that is only ever replaced as a unit?
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Jun 26, 2014 02:38
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I've seen a few people rebuild it, but I'm unsure if subaru will service the diff vs replacing it outright. Is it binding at all or are you just getting warning lights?
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Jun 26, 2014 02:57
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McSpatula posted:I've seen a few people rebuild it, but I'm unsure if subaru will service the diff vs replacing it outright. No binding, warning light only. What happens is the + AUTO - indicator goes out and the manual control indicators all start flashing. User manual says that's "center diff fail, take in for immediate service." The dealer said it would be hard to diagnose; we'll just see what they come up with. I suspect they just straight up replace it most times; my insurance company's intransigence is really frustrating. Doubly so since it was the other guy's fault and they can just go after his insurance for the repair costs. But this is how they make their money, I guess.
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Jun 26, 2014 03:08
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JDAMS CURE PASHTUN posted:Opposed Forces has the parts diagrams you're looking for. Should be 36015GA111. Bajaha posted:opposedforces has the exploded parts diagrams with most of the part numbers listed below, don't know if it has a search function. Alternatively you can stop by a local junkyard and pull one off of another subaru, all the pedals should be the same size for every year, I know the 2010 WRX pedal pads fit perfectly on my 03 Baja. Thanks guys. Probably just gonna buy one as I don't need anything else right now so junkyard doesn't make a ton of sense.
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Jun 26, 2014 05:13
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VelociBacon posted:Question! What the hell causes repeat valve cover leaks? I just had the gaskets changed and the passenger side is still leaking onto my headers. Is a failed blowby system to be suspected? Did you also do the spark gaskets and the rocker gaskets (I think that's the part name), or just the valve cover? The spark gaskets are known to leak too. Otherwise yeah, certainly could be a blocked PCV or something also. Midjack posted:No binding, warning light only. What happens is the + AUTO - indicator goes out and the manual control indicators all start flashing. User manual says that's "center diff fail, take in for immediate service." Did you sustain any damage to a wheel/etc? Might be related to the ABS sensors or similar. Either way the dealer should be able to diagnose it. It shouldn't be "hard" for them.
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Jun 26, 2014 13:08
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si posted:Did you also do the spark gaskets and the rocker gaskets (I think that's the part name), or just the valve cover? The spark gaskets are known to leak too. Otherwise yeah, certainly could be a blocked PCV or something also. Actually turned out to be just a valve cover bolt that wasn't tightened down fully I guess (was weeping). I did replace the spark gaskets and PCV gaskets (and oil filler tube gasket) at the same time.
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Jun 26, 2014 13:14
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si posted:Did you sustain any damage to a wheel/etc? Might be related to the ABS sensors or similar. Either way the dealer should be able to diagnose it. It shouldn't be "hard" for them. No wheel damage; the first repair shop and the garage they subbed it to initially (Mach V) said all the external connections looked OK and the problem was inside the diff. ABS or speed sensor was my first thought too. I was accelerating from a stop until the front impact at ~10mph so there could very easily be some drivetrain damage. Edit: there apparently is a diagnostic for the DCCD, but it sounds pretty involved. Midjack fucked around with this message at 18:56 on Jun 27, 2014 |
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Jun 26, 2014 13:17
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gently caress YOU SUBARU CAM BOLTS! Replacing cam seals as I apparently can't put them in without them leaking, and they're being a bitch to take off. R-intake came off no problem, R-exhaust and L-intake had to be taken off by jamming a breaker bar against the frame and bumping the starter a few times, but L-exhaust is being a major pain in the rear end. Tried the starter trick but it stripped out in a hurry, vice grips just keep chewing up the outside and keep falling off, taking tiny pieces/chips of the plastic exhaust cam with them.  Now it looks like next step is to drill it out. In a fit of rage I now have a set of TiC FU Cam bolts on order to replace the bullshit Allen key fitting for the stock cam bolts.
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Jun 28, 2014 00:53
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McSpatula posted:Canards? I'm unsure if an application that small plays the same valuable role though. Yeah I basically want them because I like the look.
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Jun 28, 2014 01:10
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Bajaha posted:gently caress YOU SUBARU CAM BOLTS!  I've been there. I eventually took a die grinder and made an X pattern into the bolt and one of them came off without damaging the plastic cam gear, but the other shattered into a bunch of pieces.
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Jun 28, 2014 01:42
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WjZ0XtLYtzc When I did it, I used mustang lug nuts welded on. 
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Jun 28, 2014 03:04
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G-Mach posted:I've been there. I eventually took a die grinder and made an X pattern into the bolt and one of them came off without damaging the plastic cam gear, but the other shattered into a bunch of pieces. Hmmm... seems like it might work for me. Doing it all in-car so far since I really don't want to pull the motor again. Slow is Fast posted:When I did it, I used mustang lug nuts welded on. I do have a few unused lug nuts laying around, but unfortunately no easy access to a welder, I could probably get one if it really comes to it but I'll try other methods first. Which reminds me, I really want to look into a welder. Would be nice not to have to bug friends and neighbours when I need a random weld done here or there. Plus I can practice on the Craptimatm while doing rust repair. I'll probably play around with it tomorrow, I'll see which method seems easier, either going to try the cutting a slot or x pattern into the bolt, or I'll drill it out like in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cHEWo0GgPWE&t=131s
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Jun 28, 2014 05:34
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This might be a goofy question - does anyone make overload springs/helper springs /whatever they're called, that will maintain stock ride height, but will keep my car from sagging when I have it loaded up with people/crap? I have a 2012 Impreza.
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Jun 30, 2014 15:11
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FogHelmut posted:This might be a goofy question - does anyone make overload springs/helper springs /whatever they're called, that will maintain stock ride height, but will keep my car from sagging when I have it loaded up with people/crap? I have a 2012 Impreza. RalliTek used to make overload springs for the outback once upon a time, but other than that... no. You might be able to stuff in rear crosstrek springs but that might give you a little bit of lift in the rear. Otherwise an overall stiffer aftermarket spring might be an option.
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Jun 30, 2014 15:20
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Slow is Fast posted:RalliTek used to make overload springs for the outback once upon a time, but other than that... no. Yeah, I'm wondering how many things would have to change to get crosstrek suspension in there. Or if there's a progressive rate spring that's not a lowering spring. I mean, I don't know if an entirely stiffer spring is going to cause my rear end to bounce around like an unloaded pickup truck.
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Jun 30, 2014 15:29
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You could get coilovers? Stiff but feel nothing at all like an empty ute.
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Jun 30, 2014 15:42
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I have the same problem with my '04 wrx wagon. Bunch of camping gear in the back plus a person and I rub on bumps or corners. I've heard STI springs are stiffer but don't affect ride height.
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Jun 30, 2014 15:50
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You could always bolt titanium drag blocks to the frame, so when it sags, they scrape the pavement and throw wicked sparks.
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Jun 30, 2014 16:03
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There are things like these spacers, but I don't trust them and I'm not sure why.
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Jun 30, 2014 16:05
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Boogalo posted:I have the same problem with my '04 wrx wagon. Bunch of camping gear in the back plus a person and I rub on bumps or corners. I've heard STI springs are stiffer but don't affect ride height. You need spacers for sedan rears. I used 1/2". Past a certain height of spacer, you also need extended studs.
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Jun 30, 2014 16:07
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Bam: http://www.paranoidfabrications.com/shop/category/subaru-impreza/saggy-butt-spacers/
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Jun 30, 2014 18:21
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JDAMS CURE PASHTUN posted:Bam: http://www.paranoidfabrications.com/shop/category/subaru-impreza/saggy-butt-spacers/ That's what I got. I also got these studs: http://www.paranoidfabrications.com/shop/subaru-impreza-95-07-longer-stud-kit/
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Jun 30, 2014 19:46
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So I've got a 2004 WRX wagon, 70k miles, shifter still mostly feels really good. It's got a very tiny bit of play to it, nothing too serious, but also does that thing where when I give the car gas, going from zero to any amount, I can feel the shifter wiggle back and forth a tiny bit with the engine. Not enough to cause any problems or anything, just wondering if there's something specific I can do/replace to improve that? I've never actually replaced a shifter or any bushings before, and so really don't have a great idea of how it should feel stock in good shape.
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Jun 30, 2014 19:56
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People claim that these bushings will help immensely with that. I have a 2003 outback with 180K miles and my shifter has a good bit of play in it, and the car jerks a bit when I let off the gas in first through third, so I'm considering installing them.
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Jun 30, 2014 20:30
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I will 2nd that kartboy kit. Go all the way and get their short shifter too. If you're not sure you'll like it, it should be pretty easy to find someone nearby with one installed. 70k is nice low mileage for an '04!Seat Safety Switch posted:You need spacers for sedan rears. I used 1/2". That's what I thought. The guy who said I didn't need spacers probably forgot I have a wagon. Boogalo fucked around with this message at 21:07 on Jun 30, 2014 |
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Jun 30, 2014 21:02
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door Door door posted:People claim that these bushings will help immensely with that. I have a 2003 outback with 180K miles and my shifter has a good bit of play in it, and the car jerks a bit when I let off the gas in first through third, so I'm considering installing them. I haven't even bothered with my bushings in the shifter - my engine and trans mounts were so shagged that they made all the difference for me. EDIT: Also, this little pressure sensor is leaking like a gently caress on my wagon. drat you VTEC Sohc bullshit. 
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Jun 30, 2014 21:33
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These are the bushings that I think help the most: http://turninconcepts.com/tic-06-subaru-shift-linkage-bushings.html The front and rear kartboy bushings are firmer mounts that hold the bar that holds the bottom of the shifter. So the biggest difference you get from them is a more direct feeling when shifting into gear. The u-joint bushings I linked will take out the side-to-side play when it's in gear. Also I'm a kartboy and TIC dealer so send me a PM or email if you want to get any of that stuff.
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Jun 30, 2014 21:43
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I found the biggest difference in the group N tranny mount. 15 minute install. Worth ever penny. Cant wait to do the engine mounts.
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Jun 30, 2014 22:40
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| # ? May 27, 2024 08:54 |
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always be closing posted:I found the biggest difference in the group N tranny mount. 15 minute install. Worth ever penny. Cant wait to do the engine mounts. I did group N motor and tranny mounts, TIC tranny crossmember bushings, and rear diff outrigger bushings at the same time. I can't say if you'll see a big change from just the motor mounts, but all of the above tightened up the car a lot. After all of that, I was surprised how much easier it was to shift and revmatch. I'll also throw in a recommendation for steering rack bushings, but they're a bitch to install.
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Jun 30, 2014 22:49
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