|
Don't paint your white models white, paint them extremely light grey then highlight with white. For these veterans, I painted their helmets Ulthuan Grey, washed with Drakenhof Nightshade (a blue wash) and then brought them back up to Ulthuan Grey leaving the shade in the recesses, before highlighting with pure white: 
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2014 04:45
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 21:45 |
|
|
Advice I got on painting whites in a class by Noel Meyer is that you want to have most of your white areas white, but to have a decent amount shadows in colors that match the surroundings to some extent. Generally a light brown for warmer, indoor settings and blue for cooler, outdoor settings. Normally, when you paint a mini, you're going to look at about sixty percent of the area in your midtone, with twenty percent shadow and twenty percent highlight. With white, your "midtone" is also your highlight, so you end up with eighty percent white or very near white. She used this mini among others to demonstrate. She paints blacks pretty much the same way, just reversing it so you have about twenty percent highlight (again using colors around it) and the rest black. I've got a picture of some color squares she made to demonstrate. I'll try and upload them later. And try not to handle your mini directly until you have a chance to seal it. If it isn't feasible to not handle it (large, awkward model), consign yourself to having to touch it up, and make sure to wash your hands before and after. If you're having a serious problem, make sure you're washing the mini well before painting. EDIT: Here it is. Linking because it's pretty large. JackMann fucked around with this message at 05:26 on Jun 26, 2014 |
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2014 05:18
|
|
|
SRM posted:Don't paint your white models white, paint them extremely light grey then highlight with white. For these veterans, I painted their helmets Ulthuan Grey, washed with Drakenhof Nightshade (a blue wash) and then brought them back up to Ulthuan Grey leaving the shade in the recesses, before highlighting with pure white: Thanks! Time to buy more paints at the local GW store for this stupidass project 
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2014 05:37
|
|
|
AndyElusive posted:Good question! I too would like to know if there are any awesome painters slash modellers on Instagram. I need to balance out all these pictures of food, cats, couples and babies with awesomeness. I just went ahead and searched for hashtags that had anything to do with warhammer and miniature gaming. My hobby-instagram is @garagepainter. If you add me you can see what kind of people I follow and then go from there. Although @heelanhammer, the podcast have their own instagram so that is a good place to start.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2014 05:41
|
|
|
What advantages are there to buying this http://www.thewarstore.com/product74554.html over these http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NNLAC2/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3BUTZ3PU6O0VG&coliid=I1TS6O6PGGSPI2 http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0065O63BK/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3BUTZ3PU6O0VG&coliid=I2RONDG84KSPIN&psc=1?
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2014 06:03
|
|
|
ProfZoom posted:What advantages are there to buying this Nothing (as far as I can tell) other than you won't get that drill bit until some time between July and September. Also there's no info on what size those Warstore magnets are.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2014 06:07
|
|
|
Traditional Oath crosspost  
JerryLee fucked around with this message at 06:25 on Jun 26, 2014 |
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2014 06:20
|
|
|
Whats the trick to doing white with a red cross on shields? Just to paint it straight white?
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2014 07:56
|
|
|
DJ Dizzy posted:Whats the trick to doing white with a red cross on shields? Just to paint it straight white? I'd use some masking tape as well, but I'm bad at painting straight lines, so...
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2014 08:43
|
|
|
I got some painting done while the forums were down. I normally don't get any responses to pictures I post here, (hard to compete with some of you incredible painters!) but this is my first attempt at OSL (on the hammer) so give me some feedback?    Double dare: can you spot the Chinese recasts?
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2014 14:06
|
|
|
Tuxedo Jack posted:I got some painting done while the forums were down. I normally don't get any responses to pictures I post here, (hard to compete with some of you incredible painters!) but this is my first attempt at OSL (on the hammer) so give me some feedback? There's only one photos with the hammer really visible, but from what I can tell the glow is only on the boot of the rider - the glow would reach the ground, front fender/mud guard of the bike, even the weapon shaft and I can't spot any hint of blue on those areas. It depends how obvious you want the glow to be, but objects at the same distance should have roughly the same amount of glow on them to make the OSL really work.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2014 14:09
|
|
|
Like krush said, more should be glowing. I doubt anyone will notice if you don't grab them and tell them to examine your OSL, but just something to consider. Drill your bolter holes! Ps that guy's bike is falling because he can't steer Chinese recasts are...the apothecary, the Ravenwing bike, and possibly the Sanguinary Guard you used on the bike apothecary?
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2014 14:13
|
|
|
Thanks for the feedback. I hadn't really thought out the complete effect of the OSL and everything it should touch, I just wanted to see if I could make the "glow" look right. I'll go back and add it to those features, good call. The recasts are the FW Apothecary and the chest pieces on the bikers. Everything else is GW. Its brittle, but great casts.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2014 14:16
|
|
|
you can't fool me I forgot the front of the Ravenwing bike tire guard has that beak thing. I'll still take it.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2014 14:21
|
|
|
DJ Dizzy posted:Thanks! Time to buy more paints at the local GW store for this stupidass project  As for straight lines, paint the whole model red, mask off the line you want to stay red with Tamiya masking tape, then paint white. Otherwise your red lines will (probably) always be wobbly.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2014 14:23
|
|
|
I have produced a super-in-depth guide to painting white buy skull white spray. if your model is metal or resin, pick a different color
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2014 14:30
|
|
|
I purchased a Badger 155 Anthem with my birthday money, so I'd have a siphon feed airbrush. Anything I need to know about it that wouldn't be obvious? I am using it pretty much exclusively for priming, basecoating, and varnishing. Supposedly I can use it for fine work if I get a replacement head assembly without needing to change the needle. Anyone got experience with that?
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2014 14:46
|
|
|
signalnoise posted:I purchased a Badger 155 Anthem with my birthday money, so I'd have a siphon feed airbrush. Anything I need to know about it that wouldn't be obvious? I am using it pretty much exclusively for priming, basecoating, and varnishing. Supposedly I can use it for fine work if I get a replacement head assembly without needing to change the needle. Anyone got experience with that? It's the same as a Patrio 150, but siphon feed instead of gravity...so it will outlast all your hobby painting needs. Try to have a spare needle on hand in case you bump it or drop it, the needle is pretty exposed.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2014 14:50
|
|
|
SRM posted:Don't paint your white models white, paint them extremely light grey then highlight with white. For these veterans, I painted their helmets Ulthuan Grey, washed with Drakenhof Nightshade (a blue wash) and then brought them back up to Ulthuan Grey leaving the shade in the recesses, Welp, guess I should stop volunteering to a friend with really poor eye sigh to paint his future White Scars army then. 
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2014 16:23
|
|
|
krushgroove posted:It's the same as a Patrio 150, but siphon feed instead of gravity...so it will outlast all your hobby painting needs. Try to have a spare needle on hand in case you bump it or drop it, the needle is pretty exposed. Sweet. Can you tell me if the fine tip works well? So far I'm really enjoying the brush excepting the fact that it sort of backwashes paint into the next pot. I don't much care for that aspect. I assume there's some trick to preventing that though, like keeping a jar full of water or something to use between functional jars.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2014 20:00
|
|
|
You should be running cleaner or at least water through between colours whatever kind of brush you are using
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2014 20:23
|
|
|
Yeah always flush it through! I haven't tried the fine needle in the Patriot, but if you do get it make sure you always use the correct tip with it, otherwise you'll have bad leaks and lots of trouble.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2014 21:06
|
|
|
Skarsnik posted:You should be running cleaner or at least water through between colours whatever kind of brush you are using Yeah, I've been running cleaner through it after each color. The reason I noticed the paint is because my bottle of cleaner now has some green at the bottom. krushgroove posted:Yeah always flush it through! I haven't tried the fine needle in the Patriot, but if you do get it make sure you always use the correct tip with it, otherwise you'll have bad leaks and lots of trouble. That's the thing, the Anthem doesn't have a fine needle, it just has different heads using the same size needle. Supposedly the needle is designed for this.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2014 21:35
|
|
|
Its the same as the patriot, the fine conversion kit is a tip and a needle
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2014 21:42
|
|
|
Oh I guess I misread all the literature. I do see multiple needle types on dick blick. 
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2014 21:46
|
|
|
I've painted up a combat squad of Scouts with sniper rifles. These models are leagues better than the plastics, even if the poses are kinda limited. The sergeant has the little red skull on his Ultima, and the squad is the first in the 10th company. I'll need to go back and add squad markings to my other Scouts later:       I also painted up the Rhino for the first tactical squad, and this one I DID manage to get the rails on!     
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 00:19
|
|
|
Pacheeco posted:Nothing (as far as I can tell) other than you won't get that drill bit until some time between July and September. Also there's no info on what size those Warstore magnets are. Ah. But otherwise, for pin vises, a drill bit is a drill bit is a drill bit as long as it's the right size to fit?
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 03:04
|
|
|
 I've collected together an orc Blood Bowl team. This guy is a quick test of the colour scheme. I'm not sure what I think. The plan was to contrast a bright yellow with duller browns and greys in order to walk the line between 'uniform' and 'general thrown-together orcyness', but I'm worried the brown and grey is just a bit uninspired. The metal isn't doing much for me either. I like the yellow and I like the skin and I feel a whole team painted up like this (though a little neater and finished off properly) would look pretty good but if anyone has any suggestions as to what I can do to really make them ballin', I'd appreciate it. More yellow? Less yellow? Darker? Lighter? Another colour?
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 09:08
|
|
|
I think it looks great - I like the pink at the finger joints and stuff like that. Maybe all it needs are some freehanded insignias or jersey (jerkin?) numbers to make it clearer they're football players and not tiny warjacks. How about a contrasting color lightning bolt or something on the left shoulder? I'm really going to have to try doing the nose/ears/lips like that, though, I think that's something I'm missing on my own dudes.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 12:08
|
|
|
I think your Orc looks good too - the yellow is just enough to draw the attention to the face and upper body. Anything more, especially more yellow below the waist would be asking for trouble.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 13:13
|
|
|
Tenterhooks posted:Football orc
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 13:56
|
|
|
oh god i finished my 1st vendetta    That took me a loving month. But I only have to do one more.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 14:22
|
|
|
OK I'm gonna ask. Is anyone here both highly experienced with different paint types AND a user of Minitaire paint? I'm trying to figure out exactly what the issue is with this stuff. It just has so many weird properties. If you are an experienced painter but have not used it but would be happy to analyze a sample for me send me a PM. So far, I've used Citadel, Privateer Press, Reaper, Reaper HD, VMA Metallics, and Minitaire. I can report the following: * It pools up like water on treated glass if you paint Minitaire over VMA metallics * Unless you apply a ridiculously thin coat, it pools in recesses almost like an ink. No other paint I know does this quite like Minitaire * If left alone, some of the colors will separate. For instance I have to take a paint mixer to my bottle of Lust Pink every time I want to use it because the white part of it falls to the bottom. Other colors have other pigments I wouldn't even expect to be part of the color do the same thing. * Shaking the paint up creates foam at the top of it faster than other paints I've tried. * It dries to a candy gloss finish * If you paint it on really thin, it dries fine. If you paint it at all thick, it just gets tacky, like PVA almost. I wear nitrile gloves when I paint, and the paint comes off on those gloves. I don't really know wtf is going on with this paint.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 14:34
|
|
|
The Ghost Tints have a candy gloss finish, are using those? For the mixing, I drop a faceted glass bead (bought a pack of 200 off ebay) in each bottle when I open it, that helps get the pigment up off the bottom and mix. But I've had Vallejo paints and primers separate too, so that's no biggie. The Ghost Tints do bubble/froth but I haven't had any issue with that.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 14:39
|
|
|
Tenterhooks posted:
This guy looks great! The only thing I could really think of to improve it is some black on the shoulderpad - a player number, checkerboard, or flames or something could look really good there. Even without that, it's a great paintjob.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 14:51
|
|
|
krushgroove posted:The Ghost Tints have a candy gloss finish, are using those? For the mixing, I drop a faceted glass bead (bought a pack of 200 off ebay) in each bottle when I open it, that helps get the pigment up off the bottom and mix. But I've had Vallejo paints and primers separate too, so that's no biggie. The Ghost Tints do bubble/froth but I haven't had any issue with that. I airbrushed Envy Green yesterday. SUPER shiny. I'll get some glass beads though that's a good idea.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 15:14
|
|
|
Hey everyone, I figured I'd cross post this here since I've only got paints left. My SAMart thread http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3645870&pagenumber=1&perpage=40#post431420032. I've got a bunch of Vallejo paint I'm looking to give a goon a good deal on.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 19:42
|
|
|
I have a question about the way you paint these guys. I love the intense black you have in the recesses between armour panels. Is that done with a wash or are you painting over black and leaving the recesses to show through?
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 20:06
|
|
|
Speckled Jim posted:I have a question about the way you paint these guys. I love the intense black you have in the recesses between armour panels. Is that done with a wash or are you painting over black and leaving the recesses to show through? My models are primed with Army Painter's Crystal Blue then given a pretty healthy wash of Drakenhof Nightshade or whatever the blue wash is called, before bringing it back up to blue and leaving the shade in the recesses. It might look a little darker in the photos because of the white balance, but it's kind of my go to technique for painting power armor.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 20:43
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 21:45 |
|
|
SRM posted:My models are primed with Army Painter's Crystal Blue then given a pretty healthy wash of Drakenhof Nightshade or whatever the blue wash is called, before bringing it back up to blue and leaving the shade in the recesses. It might look a little darker in the photos because of the white balance, but it's kind of my go to technique for painting power armor. It looks great! I mean everything looks great, but that part just catches my eye.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 20:55
|
|