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Delivery McGee posted:Also a good buy: Stanley demo drivers. Y'know all those things you're not supposed to use screwdrivers for, like chisleing, prying, drilling, etc. but do anyway? They're built for it. Toolmonger's review sold me on them, in which they hammered one all the way through a 2x4, handle and all, with no damage other than a few scratches to the rubber grips. I've used them for prying, chiseling through small bolts (in conjunction with the 3-lb hammer), and as a non-marring hammer (hold it by the shaft and whack the thing with the handle; chews up the finish, but hey, that's just more grip) more than I've actually used them to turn screws. Oh drat, those drivers are going on my Christmas list. Great idea to make a screwdriver that isn't afraid of being abused.
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Jun 20, 2014 18:38
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mod sassinator posted:Oh drat, those drivers are going on my Christmas list. Great idea to make a screwdriver that isn't afraid of being abused. I have similar ones from Wera and they're fantastic. The handle isn't hard, though, more of an ergo-shape comfort grip.
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Jun 21, 2014 00:24
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Those stanley demo drivers look neat, but I couldn't find them on the stanley site, they seem to be discontinued?
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Jun 21, 2014 00:39
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http://chadstoolbox.com/05018282006wera9326chsldrvrsdset4-sl2-phrack.aspx I use these.
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Jun 21, 2014 06:15
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peepsalot posted:Those stanley demo drivers look neat, but I couldn't find them on the stanley site, they seem to be discontinued? Well, balls. What if I ever manage to break them? Dewalt makes a similar set, and the one Amazon review says they're better than the Stanley version. They look pretty much identical except the Dewalts don't have the rubber grips, just solid plastic handles but the same shape. I wonder if they licensed a third-party design, and the patent owner jumped ship when the contract was up for renewal. Edit: I've been watching Let's Plays of The Forest, in which your starting weapon/tool is the fire axe from the airliner you crashed on.  That's a funky blade shape. Is it because it's more a can opener writ large than an actual axe? Could you chop down a tree with it? Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 07:03 on Jun 21, 2014 |
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Jun 21, 2014 06:54
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Delivery McGee posted:They look pretty much identical except the Dewalts don't have the rubber grips, just solid plastic handles but the same shape. I wonder if they licensed a third-party design, and the patent owner jumped ship when the contract was up for renewal. Stanley owns DeWalt. Also Mac Tools, Proto, and Black & Decker. They're probably identical with different handles.
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Jun 21, 2014 07:56
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I'm intrigued about the demo screwdrivers. I can't find the Stanley ones nearby (and it's surprisingly-difficult to find them online), but a local Homedepot does have these Milwaukee demo screwdrivers. Is there any reason for me to believe that these demo screwdrivers are of lesser quality than the Stanley ones you guys are discussing?
melon cat fucked around with this message at 16:51 on Jun 21, 2014 |
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Jun 21, 2014 16:29
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Klein makes some really nice demolition screwdrivers too. They only have slotted, but I can't really think of any reason to pry and bash with a phillips head screwdriver. http://www.kleintools.com/videos/klein-tools-demolition-screwdrivers
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Jun 21, 2014 17:19
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So, I'm looking for something to help me separate pressed CV Joints and I'm coming up short. I've tried the pipe trick and mine aren't budging so I think I'll need something more specific to the task From what I've found looking around my options are either a slide hammer with an attachment to yank off the joint, or using one of these tools to pull it off:  video of it in action: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vOh43Wkmqnc&t=68s Issue is that the only place I can find that has those are either UK retailers or slowboat from china for around $60-$100 for the various brand names (pretty sure they're all the same with different names stamped). It uses the nut to pull it off which might also not be the best thing ever for the threads. Anybody seen them stateside or better yet in the great white north? I guess I could use the slide hammer puller, would be useful in other applications down the road, would just have to find one in Winnipeg for a decent price or get this on off of Amazon and pick it up with everything else I have waiting for me http://www.amazon.com/OTC-7509-Inner-Joint-Puller/dp/B000O825QU  Because the exact same one on the .CA site is about $22 more http://www.amazon.ca/OTC-7509-Inner-Joint-Puller/dp/B000O825QU Any thoughts/experience with any of these? Kinda worried that if the pipe trick didn't work then the slide hammer might not be enough.
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Jun 22, 2014 00:11
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Remember just how much torque goes on that nut, and how much more tension that involves on the shaft+threads, using them for the puller seat won't be an issue at all unless they are drat near shagged out already.
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Jun 22, 2014 15:35
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Why would you remove a CV joint and not just replace the whole axle shaft? A reman axle shaft gets you "new" inner and outer joints and new boots. I have used the slider hammer style tool and they work great for popping stubborn axle shafts out of transmissions. I had a Mazda Protege that the tool would not work on though. I was replacing the engine so I ended up leaving the transmission in the car instead of pulling the engine and trans together like I wanted to. I tried making an oil extractor powered by an electric vacuum pump. It did not work because the vessel I used could not handle vacuum pressure. I looked around for a better vessel but I couldn't find anything that looked like it would work at a price low enough for me to risk another failure. So I bought a Liquivac at Northern Tool. I used it on two lawn mowers this morning and it was awesome. If the pump fails I can remove it and install a blank plate with a nipple for my electric vacuum pump and keep using it.
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Jun 22, 2014 17:44
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PBCrunch posted:Why would you remove a CV joint and not just replace the whole axle shaft? A reman axle shaft gets you "new" inner and outer joints and new boots. I have used the slider hammer style tool and they work great for popping stubborn axle shafts out of transmissions. I had a Mazda Protege that the tool would not work on though. I was replacing the engine so I ended up leaving the transmission in the car instead of pulling the engine and trans together like I wanted to. Axle's would cost around $800 for 2 from what I've been quoted from DSS. It's a little bit of a special case, building hybrid axles for the Baja. 2010 WRX motor, 2013 STI transmission and rear diff, 03 Baja rear hubs, 2010 WRX front hubs. Need to make axles with STI inner stubs and WRX and Baja outer stubs for the front and rear respectively. The rear is easy enough as I can just swap the inner stubs since those come apart easily with the removal of a snap ring, are both 6 ball bearings, and I'm getting the Baja bearing race machined down to the STI size to use the STI ball bearings and cage. The front is a little more of an issue as the inside joint is a 3 prong joint and there's no way to adapt one to the other, so I'm left futzing about with the outer joint which is a press fit. I've tried the pipe trick which is where you slide the axle into a pipe slightly larger than the axle shaft itself and slam the pipe on the ground. The momentum of the axle itself should pull it out from the joint. Unfortunately this hasn't worked for me, hence trying to find another method. So far I'm leaning towards the constant pressure tool that should slowly pull it out. Best bet for finding it seems to be this: http://www.amazon.com/Supercrazy-Assembly-Removal-Puller-SF0107/dp/B00JV19FZA Still pricey for what seems like a cheap to manufacture tool, but I guess it doesn't really have any other purpose and is mostly not-needed. Still going to try a few more things before I cave and get it.
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Jun 22, 2014 18:19
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Anyone have any opinions or experience on this waxer/polisher that Woot has for sale? It's something I've always had a bit of interest in, but haven't wanted to drop a ton of dough on, in case it just sits in the closet for years.
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Jun 28, 2014 08:29
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I got something similar from Costco and it's nice if you have a lot of cars to wax or wax all the time. It's kind of big with a 10" disc so it's great for large flat areas (works really well on my Jeep Cherokee), but can be a pain for tighter or more curved spots. I end up masking off plastic and other parts with tape to keep the wax off them. It beats using your hands, but I would check Walmart or Costco since they probably have similar things for the same price or cheaper.
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Jun 28, 2014 08:37
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I guess it is kind of a tool question. I need to strip about 4-5 layers of paint off of some metal that has some tight curves and the metal is getting a bit thin. Before taking it around to try and find a shop that can blast it safely I wanted to try chemical stripers. Is there any that are known to work better? I have no issues using chemicals safely and have a good ventilated area to do the work.
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Jun 30, 2014 04:17
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"airplane remover" is usually the go-to chemical. If you want to try something a little more gentle, i was able to remove spray-paint from my plastic engine cover without disturbing the original paint too much with this stuff http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/dominion-sure-seal-paint-stripper-0475684p.html#.U7DYNrEi1cE  
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Jun 30, 2014 04:25
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Tindjin posted:I guess it is kind of a tool question. I need to strip about 4-5 layers of paint off of some metal that has some tight curves and the metal is getting a bit thin. Before taking it around to try and find a shop that can blast it safely I wanted to try chemical stripers. Aircraft Stripper I think is what I've used before for something similar, it's not perfect but it does a decent job. For something that's got really tough spots to reach, I know some guys who swear by that permatex gasket stripper spray. Haven't tried that one yet though, and not sure if I'd risk it on thin metal.
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Jun 30, 2014 04:25
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Tindjin posted:I guess it is kind of a tool question. I need to strip about 4-5 layers of paint off of some metal that has some tight curves and the metal is getting a bit thin. Before taking it around to try and find a shop that can blast it safely I wanted to try chemical stripers. Aircraft stripper. It's methylene chloride, and will gently caress you up if you inhale or absorb it. Nitrile gloves won't stop it, so you'll have to get chemical-resistant rubber gloves. It's available as a gel, just brush it on, let it sit for a while, and the paint will just bubble up. Wipe it off, wash with water. If the paint is thick, you might need to repeat it a few times. Covering it with plastic wrap makes it last longer and gives you more working time. Wear a good respirator, with organic vapor cartridges.
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Jun 30, 2014 04:27
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sharkytm posted:Aircraft stripper. It's methylene chloride, and will gently caress you up if you inhale or absorb it. Nitrile gloves won't stop it, so you'll have to get chemical-resistant rubber gloves. It's available as a gel, just brush it on, let it sit for a while, and the paint will just bubble up. Wipe it off, wash with water. If the paint is thick, you might need to repeat it a few times. Covering it with plastic wrap makes it last longer and gives you more working time. Wear a good respirator, with organic vapor cartridges. Thanks for the info guys. I worked for a couple years dealing with chemicals that would scare normal people so I can appreciate the warnings on using this stuff.
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Jun 30, 2014 04:41
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Tindjin posted:I guess it is kind of a tool question. I need to strip about 4-5 layers of paint off of some metal that has some tight curves and the metal is getting a bit thin. Before taking it around to try and find a shop that can blast it safely I wanted to try chemical stripers. This stuff worked fantastically for me, almost as fast as the Kleen-Strip made of methylene chloride and a few various nasty alcohols. Fairly cheap, and it made my garage smell like oranges too. I used it to strip a tool chest and tool box that I found sitting on the side of the road, it ate the ever loving poo poo out of the paint on that thing and didn't cause one bit of corrosion. http://t.homedepot.com/p/Citristrip-17-oz-Safer-Paint-and-Varnish-Stripper-ECG73807/100164441
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Jun 30, 2014 04:42
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If aircraft stripper/remover, brake fluid, MEK, or acetone won't do the job, the job doesn't need doing. I wouldn't mix any of those together, use one at a time, but all of them are very good at dissolving various types of organic chemicals (most paints these days) and don't really attack metals much, if at all. Aircraft remover: when it absolutely must be stripped, no questions asked. MEK: about the same, but works on different kinds of paints. Probably a lot of overlap. Can even work on epoxies if you wait long enough. brake fluid: most automotive paints if you wait long enough. EXCELLENT at removing many heavy-build undercoatings. acetone: removes most single stage paint, many plastics, etc. If you are quick and gentle you can usually use it to get rattlecan off of factory cc/bc paint. Works great for removing grease and oil residue from things, and takes tint adhesive off nicely too. Warning, test yours in a hidden spot, I am not liable if acetone dissolves your factory paint, eats the defrost grid protective coating off your rear windscreen glass, or drinks the beer in your fridge. Most of these, you are going to want to use another solvent after the fact to clean up the residues so the new paint will stick. A scrub with acetone is my go-to for that. Removing grease and oil from parts: (Heaviest sludge/residue) start with diesel. (Pretty nasty sludge/residue or lots of oil) start with gas. then finish with acetone to clean off all remaining oily residues. Once it has dried for a while, you can go directly to paint prep or do whatever work you need to on the parts. kastein fucked around with this message at 06:05 on Jun 30, 2014 |
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Jun 30, 2014 05:55
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So does anyone who doesn't work in a garage use coveralls while they work? I've ruined a bunch of clothes in the last year and I was thinking of picking up a set. Ollie's Discount has them for $15 and 15% off this week, I figure it'll save me from ruining anymore clothes, but will I look like a tool?
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Jul 1, 2014 01:25
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Rhyno posted:So does anyone who doesn't work in a garage use coveralls while they work? I've ruined a bunch of clothes in the last year and I was thinking of picking up a set. Ollie's Discount has them for $15 and 15% off this week, I figure it'll save me from ruining anymore clothes, but will I look like a tool? I used tyvek suits until I trashed them all and I KNOW I looked like a tool. I've thought about picking up some coveralls but I'm afraid I'd get way too loving hot. I just have some dedicated wrenching clothes.
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Jul 1, 2014 01:51
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:I used tyvek suits until I trashed them all and I KNOW I looked like a tool. I've thought about picking up some coveralls but I'm afraid I'd get way too loving hot. I just have some dedicated wrenching clothes. I had a bunch but they were mistakenly pitched.
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Jul 1, 2014 02:54
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Rhyno posted:So does anyone who doesn't work in a garage use coveralls while they work? I've ruined a bunch of clothes in the last year and I was thinking of picking up a set. Ollie's Discount has them for $15 and 15% off this week, I figure it'll save me from ruining anymore clothes, but will I look like a tool? You'll be clean, who cares what you'll look like while you're under a car? I'm not sure how durable the Ollie's stuff is, but if you have a surplus store around, see if you can get a good deal on an old flight suit.
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Jul 1, 2014 04:12
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McSpatula posted:You'll be clean, who cares what you'll look like while you're under a car? I'm not sure how durable the Ollie's stuff is, but if you have a surplus store around, see if you can get a good deal on an old flight suit. I must be STYLISH. The Ollie's stuff if pretty decent honestly, they have some fire retardant stuff in stock right now but they're a tad more expensive.
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Jul 1, 2014 04:21
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Delivery McGee posted:
You probably could, but for cutting down a tree you'd want something with a bit more mass and a longer handle - a rescue axe isn't much more than a funny-looking hatchet at the end of the day. As for why a rescue axe is a funny shape, part of it is to keep the weight down (as every pound of rescue axe is a pound less fuel or payload you can carry), but most of it is that the axe is specifically designed to chop and pry through panels/insulation to help the crew get at a hard-to-reach electrical fire - contrary to popular belief, they're not intended to break windscreens or chop their way though the skin of the aircraft. Why they're called crash/rescue axes still is utterly beyond me.
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Jul 1, 2014 04:29
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Rhyno posted:I must be STYLISH. There was discussion about the use of flight suits a while back. I imagine if your near a military surplus store you can get some cheap
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Jul 1, 2014 04:36
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BrokenKnucklez posted:There was discussion about the use of flight suits a while back. I imagine if your near a military surplus store you can get some cheap I bought one for Halloween some years back and I don't think it was this cheap, I probably spent $30 on it.
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Jul 1, 2014 05:39
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re: wrenching clothes - I just use my dorkiest jeans and an old T-shirt. When jeans get too hosed up to use anymore, they hit the trash and I go on to my next dorkiest pair of jeans. Rinse and repeat. When I eventually run out of dorky jeans, I look for sales so I can buy more dorky jeans for  . Currently sitting on 9 pairs of jeans (not including current wrenching pants) that I won't wear out anymore for various reasons, so I'm good for a while.
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Jul 1, 2014 06:03
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Rhyno posted:I must be STYLISH.  Who says coveralls can't be stylish?
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Jul 1, 2014 06:30
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I have a couple of pairs of my dads old work coveralls for wrenching, I don't care how I look or what people think of me or I wouldn't be wrenching on a fiat multipla. What's the consensus on cobalt drills - a triumph of material science or snake oil? Because I bought a set and am itching to try drilling holes in my horrible concrete house with them
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Jul 1, 2014 10:42
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They're excellent for drilling harder steels, but also easier to snap. I'd be reluctant to use cobalt in a hand drill. e: wait, you want to drill holes in concrete? I think you're after carbide-tipped masonry bits with a hammer drill. I've never heard of anyone using Cobalt drills in masonry.
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Jul 1, 2014 10:56
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I wear fire-retardant coveralls when I do hot work (welding, grinding, plasma cutting, torch work, etc). They keep the dust/slag out of my actual clothes, and the fire-retardant properties make me feel a little better. They never enter the house unless bagged for the laundry, either.
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Jul 1, 2014 11:54
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Rhyno posted:So does anyone who doesn't work in a garage use coveralls while they work? I've ruined a bunch of clothes in the last year and I was thinking of picking up a set. Ollie's Discount has them for $15 and 15% off this week, I figure it'll save me from ruining anymore clothes, but will I look like a tool? I actually just picked up a pair of those coveralls 2 weeks ago (and had to pay full price instead of saving $2.25  ). They seem to be decent quality, but I haven't used them yet. It's 90 degrees, so I'll stick with the old t-shirt and jeans (or jorts) for now. They also had some orange ones, that I think were 3M brand, but I'd feel stupid wearing those.Since I've never really used coveralls either, one thing I wonder about is how permeable they are. I'd imagine they would keep general dust and dirt off of my clothes, but if I kneel in a puddle of tranny fluid it's gonna soak through. It's not like I was planning on wearing a tuxedo underneath them or anything, but something waterproof/oilproof yet still breathable would be awesome.
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Jul 1, 2014 14:53
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My mom got me some coveralls for Christmas and they're great. I don't always put them on but if the project is gonna take more than a few minutes I will. Its saving me money on clothes already :-D I'm good at staying out of puddles of oil, but I get everything else all over me. I'm always impressed by how much grime ends up on my face somewhere. Its great for skin...
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Jul 1, 2014 15:56
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The Carbon Tax posted:They're excellent for drilling harder steels, but also easier to snap. I'd be reluctant to use cobalt in a hand drill. I watched the bloke go through wood, thin and thick steel, iron, brick, glazed and unglazed tile, concrete, glass and brass with the same bit, hogging the hole out sideways with the bit in a hand drill through a brake rotor. I had a play and they don't snap easy, I did every stupid thing you do to snap a (4mm) bit and they kept on trucking. I'm fitting a towbar to my wife's car tomorrow so I'll give them a spin and see, after that I've something to fix in the attic that's been waiting for masonry bits so I'll feed back. I'm fully expecting to find some dumb flaw and realise I've wasted my money but it's worth a shot.
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Jul 1, 2014 22:40
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I suspect they're not actually cobalt through and through - I've snapped enough cobalt bits to know how brittle they are, and reserve their use for when HSS won't do. If you bought them from someone doing a live demo it may be some kind of cobalt wonder-coating. Have you got a brand name?
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Jul 1, 2014 23:31
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I added a tow hitch to my E36 and I just used whatever cheapo bits I had laying around. Wasn't an issue.
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Jul 2, 2014 00:14
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For wrenching clothes, I have a pair of FR coveralls that I "borrowed" from the refinery. When they get too dirty I'll take them back to be washed and bring a new pair home. gently caress putting oily clothes in my home washing machine.
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Jul 2, 2014 03:53
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