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I'm trying to figure out what type of front lift people are putting on XJs, and I can't find anything about this particular setup. There were a bunch of XJs at the last offroad show I went to with a odd setup, almost like a radius arm - there only seemed to be one upper arm on the front axle. What are these called, and who makes them?
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Jul 6, 2014 07:36
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Krakkles posted:I'm trying to figure out what type of front lift people are putting on XJs, and I can't find anything about this particular setup. There were a bunch of XJs at the last offroad show I went to with a odd setup, almost like a radius arm - there only seemed to be one upper arm on the front axle. Three link is what you're talking about I think. Lots of people make kits.
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Jul 6, 2014 07:45
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The purpose is to allow more flexible across-axle articulation - see the rear end of Land Rover 90s, 110s, Range Rover Classics and early Discos.
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Jul 6, 2014 19:59
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I can't find an solid answer to this question and it's driving me crazy. Does anyone know if the WJ GC came with an optional rear LSD Vari-lok as part of a tow package? The Quadra Drive system came with vari-lok in both axles, but I am seeing conflicting reports of whether a rear only vari-lok was optional with other 4x4 systems. Some people say the vari-lok only came with Quadra Drive, and others say it was optional on V8 D44a equipped models in the rear only with a factory tow package. I'm looking at a 2000 GC V8 with Selec-Trac and a D44a and a factory tow package. The only thing keeping me from putting down cash would be whether it has a rear LSD. I like the idea of having the selec-trac for manual control over the 4x4 system coupled with the V8, but I don't want to have to install a lunchbox locker (only kind available for the D44a) to get rid of the open diffs and then drive around the city or in snow. Edit: Hmm I think I found the answer. If I'm reading this chart right, a 2000 GC with Selec-Trac definitely does not have a rear LSD, but it's possible that it was an option on 2001+ cars without Quadra-Drive. 
BoostCreep fucked around with this message at 21:12 on Jul 6, 2014 |
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Jul 6, 2014 20:56
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Just look at the tag on the diff housing and see what it says? Wait, this means you need to know what a gerotor one should say. Paging Kastein: 
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Jul 6, 2014 21:12
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While my valve cover was off for a new gasket, I got a hot flash to paint it. I figured the old thing was too oily to really do properly, but thought I'd give it a shot and see how it holds up for the gently caress of it. Washed/scrubbed it down with: gasoline, simple green, several applications of engine degreaser, dish soap and water, and finally denatured alcohol and a light sanding:  Three layers of primer:  Three coats of VHT "Chrysler Red" 500deg engine enamel:  180grit followed by 220grit to sand down the fins:    Purdiest craigslist beater you ever saw  
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Jul 7, 2014 00:10
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That's awesome. I kind of want to do mine in that 60's industrial awful sea green color you see on all kinds of old machinery.
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Jul 7, 2014 01:41
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mod sassinator posted:That's awesome. I kind of want to do mine in that 60's industrial awful sea green color you see on all kinds of old machinery. AutoZone had several different VHT rattlecan classic colors including Grabber Green 
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Jul 7, 2014 01:53
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Went to Palm springs and visited a museum with some kewl Jeeps. The ever rare m151. I don't think they ever sold these off to the public so it was cool to see one knocking around fully registered in museum quality. Not a fan of the sideways grill or the front IFS  but the overall size of the thing is perfect. They also had a Willys-Overland Jeepster!  We went through Berdoo and Joshua Tree area.  The temperature was hot this weekend   The heat was quite unbearable, especially getting out to gently caress with airing up/down tires. The roll cage acted as a sort of massive radiator inside the Jeep, unfortunately. Even though it's painted gloss/white, it absorbed heat from the sun through the windshield that, thanks to conduction, heated EVERY PART of the rollcage to a point that it was way too hot to touch. It basically started a war of fire and ice against my air conditioning that the aircon heroically struggled to win against every time we were in the Jeep. How do people survive with black Jeeps? It must be awful in the desert. jonathan posted:I'd like to know how the RCV's feel when giving power at full turning lock. Like if you feel it in the wheel when stuck in mud etc. In the offroad thread in January my father popped both axles at the steering knuckle u-joint. Was considering RCV but went with Yukon as it was a bit cheaper. RCV was a 3 week wait and Yukon a 1 week shipped from Washington to Northern Alberta. No issues at full lock this weekend. There weren't many rocks we were testing it out on but it never felt anything other than normal. AFAIK, the RCVs have a limit of something like 45 degrees, which is more than where my steering lock is. tuna fucked around with this message at 02:15 on Jul 7, 2014 |
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Jul 7, 2014 02:11
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:AutoZone had several different VHT rattlecan classic colors including Grabber Green Awesome, looks like 'detroit diesel alpine green' is the right color:  Would love to pop my hood and have it look completely barf green like that.
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Jul 7, 2014 02:22
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I changed the engine, front diff and transmission oil today in my 98 TJ. The fill plug for the AX15 has become increasingly rounded off each time I've changed the fluid. I always forget to get a new one, and this time I could not get it off. I resorted to vice grips and a pipe wrench, neither of which worked. I eventually gave up and removed the console and shifter and filled it from the top. What's been bothering me lately is it's making a whirring noise as I accelerate. It stops when I let off the gas. I'm not sure if it was always there because I didn't really notice it until I put in a new exhaust manifold as my old one had a massive crack and was quite noisy.
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Jul 7, 2014 02:33
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InitialDave posted:Just look at the tag on the diff housing and see what it says? I honestly have no idea, I only know enough about WJs to not buy a 4.7 or 99-02.0 4.0 one, pirate TUPY heads off the 02.5-04 ones, and not tow with any of them. Get the VIN and ask chrysler for a build sheet, they usually respond in a few days. I wish I could throw a vari-lok in my DD XJ but it requires custom splined shafts since the spiders/sides are offset in the carrier and one side needs to be super long splined to drive the gerotor and still touch the side gear. I could probably cut a stock axle down for one side, but the other side would need to be custom. Oh, and it needs a nifty little oil scoop thingus that feeds the gerotor pump oil and I don't know if I could fit that in anything but a WJ d30.
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Jul 7, 2014 03:06
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Krakkles posted:I'm trying to figure out what type of front lift people are putting on XJs, and I can't find anything about this particular setup. There were a bunch of XJs at the last offroad show I went to with a odd setup, almost like a radius arm - there only seemed to be one upper arm on the front axle. Like the IRO longarm kit? 
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Jul 7, 2014 04:25
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Audiologic posted:Like the IRO longarm kit? Do not ever buy. Four of my friends have either lost hundreds of dollars worth of parts and had to be dragged off the trail or gotten into at-fault colllisions due to a fatal design flaw in this kit. Buy something, anything else, that doesn't have their retarded weak "revolutionary" caster adjuster in it. I might note I've been saying it is a bad design since well before their poo poo blew up and they didn't listen and said it must be fine. Vindication is nice, but I wish it didn't come at such a cost for my friends.
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Jul 7, 2014 04:38
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If you want a 3-link, go with the Clayton kit Ugh their link/store system is horrible because everything is cookied. Just browse for the longarm upgrade kit and check out the very last one on the list. Philip J Fry fucked around with this message at 21:00 on Jul 7, 2014 |
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Jul 7, 2014 07:48
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kastein posted:I honestly have no idea, I only know enough about WJs to not buy a 4.7 or 99-02.0 4.0 one, pirate TUPY heads off the 02.5-04 ones, and not tow with any of them. I still can't figure this out. Nearly everything I've come across doing research says the 4.7 is an excellent engine as long as you don't let it overheat and use the correct coolant. Or, as some of the more eloquent posters have said: "The 4.7 is garbage unless the oil has been changed on schedule." Ok, so yes, engines need to have oil changed. Gotcha. Otherwise I'm seeing nothing but "extremely reliable" with "many examples running 200k+ miles" in every other post I've come across. People also seem to have no problem running 33's and wheeling around Moab on the D44a, and the transmission has nearly nothing but glowing reviews across dozens of forums from BITOG to Pirate4x4 and back again. The transmission on the V8 models is the 45RFE or 545RFE, which are the same except for a software reflash to add a 5th forward gear on the latter. And they are used on all Hemi and 4.7 Rams, Durangos, Jeeps, Dakotas, Liberty's, Commanders, and more from basically 1999-2011. So essentially you shouldn't tow with any Chrysler vehicles for a 13 year span? Including the '05-'11 Power Wagon? What gives? I just tend to see a lot of people saying "I heard WJs are bad" and not a whole lot of "my WJ is bad". Edit: And by the way Kastein, I'm totally not trying to call you out as you know way more about Jeeps than I ever will. I'm just getting frustrated trying to find a mid-size SUV in the $4k range with two solid axles, a real 4x4 system, V8 rated to tow 6500lbs or more, and made in the last 15 years that doesn't have ANY reliability concerns leaves me with zero options. Literally zero. I'd love a Land Cruiser, but they are $10k for a real 91-97 model and they still come with an I6. I guess assuming a level of risk is just part of the process. BoostCreep fucked around with this message at 09:13 on Jul 7, 2014 |
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Jul 7, 2014 08:13
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BoostCreep posted:
I always assumed they were unreliable when looking at them used. Seems a lot of them list a new or rebuilt transmission in the details among other problems. These could be operator error of course, but it seemed wide spread enough to be wary of. I guess you could look for one with receipts of oil changes.
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Jul 7, 2014 09:59
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Also, we got some supremely lovely oil and tranny pans..ask me how I know! My staycation was a complete and utter BUST. Bad tie rod kept me from getting an alignment, bought a replacement and planned on putting it in myself. Studied up, watched vids..went to dads and the sonofabitch would NOT come out..didn't wanna do too much since I was afraid of loving up the steering, so I have up, packed it in, and I guess am gonna take it somewhere..shame.. Then, I tried changing the pads on my wifes Altima..caliper bolts frozen the gently caress up, PBlaster let me down and again, I admitted defeat. Then I mowed the grass. Dammit fellas..just dammit. But! Ordered half of my brake stuff and it came with a quickness, so hopefully this coming weekend will not end in frustration. Tie rod bastard...
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Jul 7, 2014 11:12
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BoostCreep posted:I still can't figure this out. Nearly everything I've come across doing research says the 4.7 is an excellent engine as long as you don't let it overheat and use the correct coolant. Or, as some of the more eloquent posters have said: "The 4.7 is garbage unless the oil has been changed on schedule." Ok, so yes, engines need to have oil changed. Gotcha. Otherwise I'm seeing nothing but "extremely reliable" with "many examples running 200k+ miles" in every other post I've come across. People also seem to have no problem running 33's and wheeling around Moab on the D44a, and the transmission has nearly nothing but glowing reviews across dozens of forums from BITOG to Pirate4x4 and back again. The transmission on the V8 models is the 45RFE or 545RFE, which are the same except for a software reflash to add a 5th forward gear on the latter. And they are used on all Hemi and 4.7 Rams, Durangos, Jeeps, Dakotas, Liberty's, Commanders, and more from basically 1999-2011. So essentially you shouldn't tow with any Chrysler vehicles for a 13 year span? Including the '05-'11 Power Wagon? No worries, someone's gotta keep me honest. The 4.7 has issues with cooling if you use the wrong coolant, iirc. So use the right kind, or there will be corrosion problems. It drops valve seats if you overheat it a little because they didn't use a tight enough pressfit. Alloy has like a 50+% higher thermal expansion coefficient, so heat a steel valve seat and an alloy head equally and at some point, it will fall out unless you used a tight enough pressfit to prevent this... the valve seats do stay hotter than the head (since they are right at the exhaust port and all) but at some point there will be issues unless you use a tight fit. If you don't change the oil religiously, it has oiling issues on the rearmost cylinders. Slow Is Fast's parents towed with two WJs. Each ate a transmission. I know multiple people with issues with the tranny who didn't tow, or towed something less than an sn95 on a flatbed. Might be previous owner abuse, might not, who knows, but XJs are out there with horrible abuse on their AW4s for 200k miles with no issues at all, so why look for pain? That is how I look at it, anyways. Not going to tow a fullsize trailer with one, though, the tow rating on an auto 4.0 XJ is 5k but I would probably not recommend it. 3500 was enough for me, it towed... adequately, but I was extremely careful. Anecdotally, I see a lot of cheap WJs on CL needing an engine or a transmission. That is never a good sign. The 4.0 WJs got the 42re, which everyone agrees is a horrible shitpile unless you rebuild it and add a number of fixes and upgrades they should have just done from the factory. kastein fucked around with this message at 12:46 on Jul 7, 2014 |
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Jul 7, 2014 12:41
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kastein posted:Slow Is Fast's parents towed with two WJs. Each ate a transmission. I know multiple people with issues with the tranny who didn't tow, or towed something less than an sn95 on a flatbed. Might be previous owner abuse, might not, who knows, but XJs are out there with horrible abuse on their AW4s for 200k miles with no issues at all, so why look for pain? That is how I look at it, anyways. Not going to tow a fullsize trailer with one, though, the tow rating on an auto 4.0 XJ is 5k but I would probably not recommend it. 3500 was enough for me, it towed... adequately, but I was extremely careful. Yep. First 02 WJ towed a boat for a few years without issue and the trans started slipping and losing gears. Second 05 WJ towed a boat and was fine for the most part. Dollied a Subaru and the trans immediately started floating gears and making GBS threads itself a week later. The motors are just ok, but the gearboxes are dogshit. Both of them had towing packages with trans coolers and poo poo. Get a Tahoe or Suburban or Yukon or Yukon XL if you want to tow poo poo around. WJs are only good for a cheap commuter SUV and they kind of suck at even that.
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Jul 7, 2014 14:16
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kastein posted:I honestly have no idea  Heh, mine did have a Vari-Lok in each axle, and it did have something on the tag which denoted this fact... I just can't recall exactly what it was! I didn't have any major problems with mine, but I bought the best I could find, and it was looked after properly (genuine Jeep fluids and filters etc). Were I looking to buy something to use with a view to towing, I'd buy a Range Rover or a Discovery. Not the Discovery I did buy, of course, which is a shed of the highest order, but a decent one. In the US, I'd buy an XJ. If you must buy a WJ, get a post-'02 Overland or Limited with the HO V8, and don't worry about which transfer case it has so much as whether it's a good car otherwise - you can always swap in a different TC.
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Jul 7, 2014 20:46
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Buy a 2.5 VM Motori powered XJ and send me the engine, transmission, wiring harness, instrument panel, and all ECMs, please  I don't have any idea what would be stamped on the axle tags but the order codes you are looking for on the build sheet would be DSB (Vari-Lok - front) and DSC (Vari-Lok - rear.) Basically I know nothing except: * XJs, MJs * poo poo I can rip off other vehicles to put on XJs and MJs * poo poo I can rip off other vehicles to put in 87 YJs and 94 YJs. * what is bad about various ZJs, TJs, WJs, and other models. Mostly learned as a result of not wanting to take those parts. * the large list of old jeep trucks I wish I had rotting in my yard
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Jul 7, 2014 20:54
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I pulled a piece of cladding off my ZJs driver side fender and found rust. Normal people would be disappointed, but I'm excited cause I can now justify chopping my fenders up for more tire clearance. Wooo!
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Jul 7, 2014 21:02
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kastein posted:Buy a 2.5 VM Motori powered XJ and send me the engine, transmission, wiring harness, instrument panel, and all ECMs, please If you're serious and have the  for the comedy shipping cost, I'll help you out, but I think it's a daft idea.
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Jul 7, 2014 21:08
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InitialDave posted:Really? You are aware that this is the engine once described as "not so much an Italian stallion as a very determined carthorse"? I'm mostly kidding, as I'm sure it'd cost me more than a VW TDI swap in shipping and duties alone, if they even let it past the border 
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Jul 7, 2014 21:12
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For what it's worth, I had a 4.7 in my 02 Dodge Ram and it was a great motor for the 150k miles that I owned it, nor did I have any problems with the 45RFE transmission, even after towing a bass boat every summer.
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Jul 7, 2014 22:46
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I want to put a lock rite in my rear axle, but I currently have 3.73 gears and a trak-loc LSD in my rear D44. From what I understand I will need an open carrier to fit most lockers (the only available locker for the LSD carrier is the powertrax no-slip for $500.) If I get an open 3.73 carrier ($70ish) and a lock rite ($250ish) can I take off my ring gear, put it on the new carrier, install the locker and be good to go once I put all the shims back in place? Or will the new case be different enough for that not to work? e: I'm fine with 3.73 since I don't know any better. I'm trying to lock the rear without needing to regear. I think the no-slip is probably my best bet. Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 17:40 on Jul 8, 2014 |
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Jul 8, 2014 17:34
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You need to take a contact pattern with marking paste before touching anything, then measure backlash, then reproduce both those specs once you swap the ring gear onto the new carrier. Yeah, it'll probably take a different amount of shim on each side. It's basically babbys first gear setup - you know the pinion depth is already set properly, so more than half the battle is won already as the real complexity in gear setup lies in the fact that pinion depth, backlash, and ring gear offset are all inter-related and changing one affects the others. So doing a gear setup is a rather iterative process, you can go faster once you have enough experience to know about how much to add for a given gearset and starting pattern. Since the depth is already set for you, you're just trying to reproduce the existing setup (backlash, pattern, preload) by changing two shim stacks that are only related to each other. Stuff you'll need: Carrier bearing cones x2 (two extra cones on top of those if you want to make setup bearings, which you do) Carrier bearing races/cups x2 Carrier bearing shim assortment Gear marking paste New ring gear bolts Tools: orange plastic deadblow dial indicator w/ mag base torque wrench 3/16 (iirc) roll pin punch (I use a piece of 3/16 brass rod stock, which doubles as a 4.0L rear main seal removal tool, since it's brass) 0-1" micrometer (NOT a caliper - an actual micrometer. You need to measure shims with this, it must be accurate to .001" and repeatable) a case spreader is very helpful if you're making setup bearings, you want some sort of die grinder and some flapwheel drums for it to hone the bearings out half a case of brakleen (you can probably use less, but I use a lot of brakleen on anything involving cleanliness and precision that starts out greasy and gets greasy and grimy every time I have to mess with it) It's a lot easier than it sounds, really. Took me an evening. The dial indicator and micrometer can be HF ones, that's what I use, they're decent.
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Jul 8, 2014 19:03
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kastein posted:You need to take a contact pattern with marking paste before touching anything, then measure backlash, then reproduce both those specs once you swap the ring gear onto the new carrier. Yeah, it'll probably take a different amount of shim on each side. Thanks for such an in-depth answer! I have a micrometer, but it's an old timey analog model. It looks like something that I'd be better off replacing with a digital tool. I think I have a dial indicator too. My buddy just did his first re-gearing so he probably has a good bit more knowledge and at least some of the right tools. I'll see if I can get a hand with that. The setup bearings are the ones at either side of the case, correct? Why is it that you need to make these 'dummy' bearings at all?
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Jul 8, 2014 20:02
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You don't HAVE to - but they make life a lot easier. There's little chance you'll get the setup right on the first try, and with them honed out to just barely clear the carrier bearing journals, you can just slide them off, adjust your shim stacks, and slide them back on instead of having to press things on and off and risk damaging bearing cages each time. An analog micrometer is just fine - and honestly, if it reads accurately, just use it.
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Jul 9, 2014 00:50
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Astonishing Wang posted:Three link is what you're talking about I think. Lots of people make kits. Thank you all for your input - I wouldn't have found it without. So. I think I have a lot of suspension costs coming up, and I want to seek out knowledge before I do anything. This is for a 2000 XJ (4.0, 4x4, AW4) which is getting more and more heavily modified. We're looking at this for the front end:
Additionally, I know that the TnT upgrade calls for steering and track bar upgrades, and these will be handled by a custom shop. So they're handled. This is going to cost me about $1300 in parts. Does anyone have any glaring "omg don't do that" or other advice? Much appreciated! Krakkles fucked around with this message at 10:08 on Jul 9, 2014 |
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Jul 9, 2014 09:12
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I have the Y-link kit, it's pretty nice and I really like the coverage area and thickness of the skid. Haven't noticed any of the infamous radius arm unloading or binding issues at all. Get a decent step-bit for drilling all of those holes in the frame rail (gently caress me I had to go through 3/16" unibody stiffeners, too.) And don't forget a new carrier for the 4.10's; the stock carrier only handles 3.55 and down. Philip J Fry fucked around with this message at 10:43 on Jul 9, 2014 |
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Jul 9, 2014 10:41
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Installed the 7" flares last night. Really hoping this will keep the 33's from flinging just as much mud inside as outside. And if anyone is curious about the quality and service of Rusty's Offroad, the winch plate I received is gorgeous and feels like 25#. 2 days after I ordered they called to let me know that my rear bumper would be a few days behind the front. I found mixed reviews prior to my purchase but my experience has been positive so far.
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Jul 9, 2014 14:16
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Krakkles posted:Three link is close, as it turns out, but Y link is what I was actually looking for. Don't go with a Y-link, they have a tendency to get axle hop/unload while climbing obstacles due to the caster changing as the suspension cycles. Go with a 3 link, they are in fact a superior suspension design. A 4 link is fine if you are using full hydro steering, can fully triangulate it (aka buggies or rear diffs only), and/or are using rubber bushings in at least a few spots, a 3 link is effectively the same as a 4 link but with one beefier upper link rather than two small ones, and is a naturally non-binding design, while a 4 link will bind except for the exceptions I just mentioned.
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Jul 9, 2014 15:42
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I replaced the front jounce bumpers last night - these are inside the front coils and are designed to squish and soften impacts. Here's the 12 year old version next to the brand new one.
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Jul 9, 2014 16:25
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piss boner posted:Installed the 7" flares last night. Really hoping this will keep the 33's from flinging just as much mud inside as outside. I have some skids from Rusty's and have no complaints. Rusty himself took care of me when I was dumb and ordered the wrong engine skid. I think it is solid kit for the price. Not the best out there, but a solid deal for something you aren't beating the poo poo out of.
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Jul 9, 2014 17:32
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kastein posted:Anecdotally, I see a lot of cheap WJs on CL needing an engine or a transmission. That is never a good sign. I'd (also anecdotally) disagree with that assessment. As came up again recently over in the Ram thread, a whole bunch of (and I'd argue most) issues with the 5/45RFE are simple electronics. But most shops don't want to touch the magic voodoo box—be that Chrysler's or Toyota's—when they can sell you a rebuild for less labor, less time in a bay, less risk, and a higher margin. $250 solenoid pack? $50 line pressure sensor? Nah, you need a new transmission from Jasper for $2500. Diagnosis and repair are for chumps. One little slip and your typical WJ owner is going to the likes of AAMCO, where everything needs a rebuild. Take the transmission to the transmission experts, right? Voila, "needs transmission" and off it goes to Craigslist as a lost cause.
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Jul 9, 2014 19:03
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Molten Llama posted:But most shops don't want to touch the magic voodoo box—be that Chrysler's or Toyota's—when they can sell you a rebuild for less labor, less time in a bay, less risk, and a higher margin. $250 solenoid pack? $50 line pressure sensor? Nah, you need a new transmission from Jasper for $2500. Diagnosis and repair are for chumps. On the other hand, misdiagnosing a small problem results in a pissed off customer, lost time, labor costs, and parts, and a black mark on their reputation if the customer tells still their friends how poo poo x shop is. Anecdotal example: my old civic was popping out of fifth at highway speeds. The shop I took it to had a decent reputation and thought it was a worn synchro ( I think, trannies are voodoo to me). They put a new one on and it worked fine for a month. Then it started doing it again. Another examination, slave cylinder was failing. That got replaced, it didn't fix anything. Turns out the gasket keeping the grease in had a tiny leak and was leaving fifth unlubed, but didn't leak out all the fluid so the others weren't affected. They lost a shitton of money and i didn't have a car for a month. A new tranny would have cost more up front but it would have saved me a month of lost wages (pizza delivery), saved them labor, and I wouldn't tell stories of their incompetence at every opportunity. e: vvv True. Transmission World in Knoxville TN. Stay far, far away. Great Beer fucked around with this message at 21:00 on Jul 9, 2014 |
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Jul 9, 2014 19:31
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Great Beer posted:They lost a shitton of money and i didn't have a car for a month. A new tranny would have cost more up front but it would have saved me a month of lost wages (pizza delivery), saved them labor, and I wouldn't tell stories of their incompetence at every opportunity. If you want this to really ring true you gotta say the name of the shop, otherwise you're not hurting their reputation for the lovely diagnosis.
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Jul 9, 2014 19:35
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Molten Llama posted:I'd (also anecdotally) disagree with that assessment. As came up again recently over in the Ram thread, a whole bunch of (and I'd argue most) issues with the 5/45RFE are simple electronics. Makes a lot of sense, and my family suffered from this somewhat. My parents are the "do very little till it stops moving and then get raped by a shop" sort of auto owners, unfortunately. They paid something like 2500 bucks for a new torque converter and pan on one of their vehicles at one point... it proceeded to blow up again. That being said the same kinds of owners have XJs, and those trannies very rarely fail. So I'll still take an AW4 (or any aisin warner auto, basically) over a chryco auto box any day. I was very happy to see an aisin offering as an option on newer cummins-powered Rams.
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Jul 9, 2014 19:48
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