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Armchair Calvinist posted:Things I need for my garage: I'm fairly boorish even it comes to appreciate differences in quality, so other people may know what's actually good, but I will say that my cheap HF impact wrench is possibly the best 20$ I have ever spent. I had no idea how incredibly loving useful those things are--at the time I just needed to pop off an axle nut, and now I use it for anything and everything. It's a must for any kind of suspension work, and made changing the front sprocket on my bike a breeze. I'd imagine that half the bad reviews are idiots who forgot to put air tool oil in it, and the other half is the typical HF quality crapshoot. It runs well enough off my six gallon porter cable air compressor, though I'm browsing around craigslist for a better one. Speaking of air compressors, what's a good one that I can run of 110v? I keep seeing some really nice two stage/20 gallon compressors on craigslist, but they're all 220/230v, and I can't swing that where I'm at right now.
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Jul 5, 2014 14:23
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That HF impact looks physically identical to my 10-year-old Craftsman. Works great for 99% of what I do, but struggles sometimes with axle nuts and crank pulley bolts. Eventually I'll get one of the higher-torque models, but it's not high on my list.
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Jul 5, 2014 14:57
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I love buying nice tools, so I'm secretly hoping it'll break and I can upgrade it... only problem is, it just won't, nomatter how hard I try 
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Jul 5, 2014 15:00
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Wasabi the J posted:I need a new drill set for around the house, and occasionally to work on my truck. I don't think I need anything too heavy duty, but I don't know what the more well-regarded ones are. Power Tool Chat always just turns into personal preference. You can't go wrong with any of the major players (Bosch, DeWalt, Makita, Milwaukee). Hell, even Metabo has some nice (although limited on number of items) cordless tools, and the list goes on. Joe Schmo Carpenter may swear that DeWalt makes the worst tools in the world because his buddy dropped his 20 year old drill in a lake and he couldn't get it fixed under warranty, yet Bechtel, the largest contractor in the world, specifies in DeWalt tools on all of their bids. Each manufacturer has the same story. I always suggest reading reviews, thinking of any projects that may pop up (you don't want to be stuck with an under powered set), and buying what you can afford(avoid MasterForce and junk like that).
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Jul 5, 2014 16:03
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PitViper posted:That HF impact looks physically identical to my 10-year-old Craftsman. Works great for 99% of what I do, but struggles sometimes with axle nuts and crank pulley bolts. Eventually I'll get one of the higher-torque models, but it's not high on my list. I've got an Aircat 1150 waiting for me when I get home. On the power tool chat, selection is really really important. Dewalt doesn't have much, nor does Metabo.
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Jul 5, 2014 16:05
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I would say do your homework and find the brand that carries the largest selection of tools you will need in their "system". I stuck with Bosch because well they make all the stuff I wanna use/buy. But pretty much every one now makes a nice assortment. Also, Bosch makes a better boom box that runs off batteries than the rest at the time I bought the tools.
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Jul 5, 2014 23:11
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BrokenKnucklez posted:I would say do your homework and find the brand that carries the largest selection of tools you will need in their "system". Who is it had the portable loving bandsaw? That's the system for me!  I mean, they all have the staples like drills and impact guns. Any other odd/interesting tools in the set are gravy.
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Jul 6, 2014 04:20
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Milwaukee and Makita both have cordless 18V bandsaws. Oops, Dewalt does too. A few others make corded ones. I want to get one for cutting EMT and cable, since they cut so damned nice. This tool is absolutely amazing if you have to work with TECK or SOOW cable a lot. Although I have been injuring conductors in SOOW cable lately because it is hot and I am rushing. I don't recall the designations for you Americans.
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Jul 6, 2014 05:09
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Is the Mityvac MV8000 a good tool for bleeding brakes and clutches?
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Jul 6, 2014 08:04
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I've used those hand-pump devices, shop air driven vacuum pumps, and a Motive power bleeder. The Motive works so much better than the others. Just make sure you get the right adapters for whatever cars you work on.
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Jul 6, 2014 15:07
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Can you buy just the adapters for a Motiv? I was gonna get one for my VW, but it would be nice to also use it on my folks Subaru or my sister's Mazda.
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Jul 6, 2014 15:13
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Uthor posted:Can you buy just the adapters for a Motiv? I was gonna get one for my VW, but it would be nice to also use it on my folks Subaru or my sister's Mazda. Yes. Seconding the Motive love. I've heard a lot of mixed results on the Mityvac but nobody seems to have issues with the Motive. I grabbed the black label and I'm glad I did because it has a swivel fitting that makes attaching to the MC a lot easier, also anodized aluminum fitting instead of plastic. My only problem with the Motive is that all the additional fittings are like 40 bucks which seems like a ton of money. I mentioned in my project thread I'm looking at adding a blow-off valve and air tool fitting so I can use it without pumping. Someone needs to make a bleeder that does this.
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Jul 6, 2014 15:28
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So we're involved in building a new house for my inlaws. They're seniors and expect to hand it off to us in the next 5-10 years so we're being asked what we (Mrs. and I) want it to have so we'll be happy with it. So my question to ask you guys is, if you could build a dream garage from the ground up what would it have? My ideas are as follows: lots of light and 120V plugs 240 power High ceilings so I could install a hoist in the future. How high? If the ceiling is high enough, mezzanine for bulk storage? Radiant heat Nice work area for bench and tool box Sink/water Out of the way corner for a compressor and maybe hard air tubing plumbed on the wall? What am I missing?
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Jul 7, 2014 00:39
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Floor drains. Epoxy floor covering.
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Jul 7, 2014 01:05
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240v Air compressor hardlines/outlets run behind the drywall Plenty of ceiling outlets RJ45/cat6 - run throughout the whole house for that matter, from a central networking closet My GF's parents asked me the same question when they remodeled her house (her folks = $$$$  ) and I suggested all of the above, except for the loving RJ45. They only asked me about the garage, and I forgot to bring up networking during the house part I do have approval/funding to design and build a nice workbench/workspace around the existing washer/dryer/sink, which I'm going to model in Sketchup as soon as the place is done. You might try to work that into it. If I had been running the show a bit more, I definitely would have gone for: Car lift Floor drains Wall-mount flatscreen Some kind of kegerator/beer tap setup Sick-rear end cabinetmaker-designed integrated tool closet
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Jul 7, 2014 01:27
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slidebite posted:So we're involved in building a new house for my inlaws. They're seniors and expect to hand it off to us in the next 5-10 years so we're being asked what we (Mrs. and I) want it to have so we'll be happy with it. Space too. If you could do something like the size of a 3 car garage but only 2 cars parked in it then there would be a ton of room to move around the cars and even store stuff. Heated floor would be nice but I would worry how much it would cost to run all the time. I would look at making it a separate thing from the rest of the house so you could keep it unheated for all the time you're not working on it.
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Jul 7, 2014 01:33
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Run 1" conduit to 4 11/16" square boxes with duplex mud rings everywhere instead of cat5/6. No futureproofing like being able to pull any half dozen cables you want to anywhere. Also, put in overhead I-beam(s) for rolling trolleys for chainfall hoists. Might be overkill, but after using a chainfall, I will never use a shop crane again unless I have to. If you do a mezzanine for storage, make sure the I-beam goes over it, so you can hoist an engine or whatever up, roll it over to the mezzanine, and let it down.
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Jul 7, 2014 02:40
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kastein posted:Run 1" conduit to 4 11/16" square boxes with duplex mud rings everywhere instead of cat5/6. No futureproofing like being able to pull any half dozen cables you want to anywhere. Can you elaborate on the mudrings, Ken? I googled, and I understand why you'd want open conduit like that but I'm not seeing how it helps you...wouldn't you need runners at the ready to pull new wire through if you needed it? Most of my experience with things like this lie in the sailboat mast/halyard arena so I may be missing something large.
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Jul 7, 2014 02:44
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You can always use a fish tape in conduit, or vacuum a pull cord through the conduit tied to a shop towel. Putting pull cord in when you assemble the conduit is never a bad plan though. The only reason I spec 4 11/16 boxes and mudrings instead of regular dual gang boxes (4 inch) is that I like a little extra working room and the cost difference is nominal. E: oh yeah, here's a tool recommendation. The posi-lock 5 ton 3 jaw gear puller is badass, I have been using mine for years. It is around 130 on amazon, but worth it. I used mine to pop an 18 year old balljoint taper out of a control arm in the rust belt today and I didn't even have to really crank on it or use the hammer trick to shock the taper out. kastein fucked around with this message at 02:54 on Jul 7, 2014 |
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Jul 7, 2014 02:50
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kastein posted:You can always use a fish tape in conduit, or vacuum a pull cord through the conduit tied to a shop towel. Putting pull cord in when you assemble the conduit is never a bad plan though. What do you reccomend on pull cord? We always used fishing line with fishing weights attatched to it on sailboats.
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Jul 7, 2014 03:01
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Anything works, really. I usually leave masons twine in there, if I need something stronger like paracord to pull a bundle of cable in at once, I tie another piece of masons twine next to the cables and pull it in to replace the one I used. Don't underestimate the amount of force required, especially if you don't have any cable pulling lube around. I was putting around 150-200lbs tension on the 9 cat6 cables I pulled at once in a 2 inch conduit at work that already had 15 in it last week.
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Jul 7, 2014 03:11
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You guys are psychic with the Cat6, already talked about that in the home networking thread in hardware The larger conduit to snake is not something I thought of though. I think floor drains are verboten in local code without a dedicated sump, but if they are not that is a certainty. The garage will be a big triple but they only have one car so room won't be an issue. If we inherit it we have 2 vehicles and couple bikes so we should be ok. Even for the time being, I'll probably winter the bike(s) there for the off season. I like the idea of an I-Beam for a chain hoist. I might not put that in from scratch but I'll make sure the trusses are able to handle one for later. Is a pit a crazy idea if a hoist is doable? e: Heated floors won't happen and to be honest aren't even on my wishlist. The garage will be attached so there will be some heat from the house even with garage heating off. It'll probably only approach freezing on the coldest days of the year at worst. slidebite fucked around with this message at 05:14 on Jul 7, 2014 |
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Jul 7, 2014 05:08
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slidebite posted:You guys are psychic with the Cat6, already talked about that in the home networking thread in hardware You should have them only build a two-car and leave expansion room for a pitted third bay in the future when you inherit it.
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Jul 7, 2014 05:14
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Unless you are absolutely 100% positive this is the last house you will live in for the rest of your life, I would not put a pit in the garage. It's going to be a nightmare to sell the house with a pit, since 99% of buyers would see it as a negative. Not to mention insurance would probably freak out and require stuff like a fence around it or method of covering it up so there's no chance of someone falling into it. I have a friend who bought a place that was owned by a mechanic who built an absolute dream garage. Space for 6 cars, a pit, and enough room for a lift. The problem is he really can't sell to anyone that isn't a car nut so the value of the home is crap. Working in a pit is also kind of a pain in the rear end since you usually need to step up on a ladder to get to the car and you're working with your hands in the air all the time. It's not useful for working on suspension stuff since the wheels have to be on the ground, and you really wouldn't want to do something like drop a transmission from it either. Really it's only useful for changing fluids, and that's not that bad to do with a normal jack.
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Jul 7, 2014 05:22
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^^ I agree with that. The pit would have and be covered unless needed, but I concur some would see that as a drawback. Little timmy taking a header in a 6.5' hole isn't appealing to most parents. e: Truth be told, I like hosts more anyhow. I am pretty sure they will build the garage as a 3 bay right from the getgo. Probably 2+1. Worst comes to worse if we don't do a pit from the get go, I could bust through the garage slab and dig/pour a pit. Luckily my best friend in town is the manager of the big concrete supplying outfit  Drainage would be an issue though as that would be too late to plumb and make a sump. kastein posted:E: oh yeah, here's a tool recommendation. The posi-lock 5 ton 3 jaw gear puller is badass, I have been using mine for years. It is around 130 on amazon, but worth it. I used mine to pop an 18 year old balljoint taper out of a control arm in the rust belt today and I didn't even have to really crank on it or use the hammer trick to shock the taper out. I sell posi-lock. I'm not a fan of posi-lock. The function is good, but the teeth on the end of the arms stretch easier than I would like and I've seen way more come back on warranty claims than you would think. Double E: Epoxy covering over the concrete is something I'll do. slidebite fucked around with this message at 05:37 on Jul 7, 2014 |
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Jul 7, 2014 05:25
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PBCrunch posted:I've used those hand-pump devices, shop air driven vacuum pumps, and a Motive power bleeder. The Motive works so much better than the others. Just make sure you get the right adapters for whatever cars you work on.
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Jul 7, 2014 05:39
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slidebite posted:^^ I agree with that. The pit would have and be covered unless needed, but I concur some would see that as a drawback. Little timmy taking a header in a 6.5' hole isn't appealing to most parents. Huh, that's interesting. I haven't had that issue (yet) though I did notch the arms a little trying to grab a gear just barely by the very tips of a tooth once, but that was my fault so I wasn't blaming it. If the arms were made from a harder, more durable metal (like something heat treated I guess) and were thinner with a sharper tip, I would be able to grab a lot more things with it. As it is, I have to split a lot of bearings slightly from what they are pressed onto with a chisel before I can get the jaws to grab. This isn't really the intended use of the tool, so again I wasn't blaming it, though it would be nice. E: yeah, I wouldn't go with a pit either. Put footings in for a lift, lifts are getting cheaper and are way more awesome. If you do overhead I-beams, remember not only the load of the beam but whatever load you expect to hang from it. It may require a trussed I-beam and end support columns rather than hanging it from the trusses. kastein fucked around with this message at 07:04 on Jul 7, 2014 |
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Jul 7, 2014 07:02
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I don't know if you own or plan to own a boat, but I refuse to have a garage that won't fit a boat sideways along the back wall and still have room to walk between it and the cars. Also its much easier to get a boat through a single two car door than two single car doors. If you don't live in an area with winter and navigable waterways then disregard this post.
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Jul 7, 2014 07:07
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Industrial sized ultrasonic solvent tanks would be mandated in my dream garage.
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Jul 7, 2014 11:51
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Also run multiple conduits from the basement to the attic, empty. That way if you ever need power or data in the future, you can run it up those, then fish down the wall as needed, assuming this is a 2 level home rather than a bungalow.
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Jul 7, 2014 13:35
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I am not a boat guy so that's not an issue. Good thought though. I am sure the home people would know this, but how high of a ceiling should a person get if you plan on a hoist and mezzanine? 14'? slidebite fucked around with this message at 14:23 on Jul 7, 2014 |
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Jul 7, 2014 14:19
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Arent pits disallowed by building code pretty much everywhere? They have a tendency to fill with poison gas unless they have proper ventilation.
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Jul 7, 2014 14:51
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FatCow posted:Arent pits disallowed by building code pretty much everywhere? They have a tendency to fill with poison gas unless they have proper ventilation.  Holy crap, you weren't kidding about lifts getting cheap--apparently you can get a lift for 1500$?? That's impulse buy money right there. I'd think labor costs alone of digging out the pit would probably be comparable.
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Jul 7, 2014 15:31
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DocCynical posted:Also run multiple conduits from the basement to the attic, empty. That way if you ever need power or data in the future, you can run it up those, then fish down the wall as needed, assuming this is a 2 level home rather than a bungalow. Did this in my place, glad I did. I ran dual 2" conduit attic to basement. Every wall of every room is getting a 1" conduit (to either the attic or the basement depending on which floor it's on) from a 4 11/16" box. So theoretically I could run any kind of cable I want from any wall of any room to any wall of any room in one shot, without ever opening a wall. kastein fucked around with this message at 16:03 on Jul 7, 2014 |
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Jul 7, 2014 16:01
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I cleaned my mom's garage this weekend. This garage has been a mess since I was a kid, and after my dad passed away a couple years ago I've been making it worse by leaving Jeep parts and tools everywhere. I feel like he would be super stoked to see it now. It's still pretty cluttered, and I need to organize a TON of little bins and tool chests. I boxed up at LEAST 60 duplicate screwdrivers and at least as many box wrenches. There were some pretty neat old torque wrenches, gear pullers and various other tools as well.
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Jul 7, 2014 16:11
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Would a small 3-gallon compressor be adequate to run an impact wrench in short bursts(i.e. just breaking things loose on high-torque fasteners rather than disassembling the entire front end of a car with it)? It wouldn't be doing any kind of sustained work so it should be about how high the CFM capacity of the fully-charged tank and hose is rather than what can be sustained by the compressor motor itself, correct? I really don't care about having to wait a few minutes for the compressor to get back up to pressure in between bursts, but I'm a little shaky on how exactly you use the various ratings to calculate air tool requirements. I've got a coupon for 50% off one of those 3-gallon HF ones - 99% of what I'd use it for is just topping off tires and such, but I've also been meaning to get an impact wrench for a long time now. If it's doable on that type of duty cycle that would be great, otherwise I guess I'll keep saving my pennies for an electric. A huge-rear end compressor just isn't doable at the moment(unfortunately, I would love to have a monster air tank and complement of tools) since I'm currently renting and have no intention of attempting to buy the place.
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Jul 7, 2014 18:29
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Kilersquirrel posted:Would a small 3-gallon compressor be adequate to run an impact wrench in short bursts(i.e. just breaking things loose on high-torque fasteners rather than disassembling the entire front end of a car with it)? It wouldn't be doing any kind of sustained work so it should be about how high the CFM capacity of the fully-charged tank and hose is rather than what can be sustained by the compressor motor itself, correct? I really don't care about having to wait a few minutes for the compressor to get back up to pressure in between bursts, but I'm a little shaky on how exactly you use the various ratings to calculate air tool requirements. It would work, but I think you'd be surprised at how quickly it ran down. I'd go for something bigger. If I swap a set of wheels my 60-gal will almost certainly cycle even from totally full. Also I wouldn't even consider an oilless compressor. I think you'd be better off with an electric/cordless impact.
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Jul 7, 2014 18:52
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I've been borrowing my friend's Harbor Freight electrical impact gun for a few weeks and it works great, but holy balls if it isn't the loudest thing. Any recommendations for an electric impact gun that doesn't need earplugs? Just for automotive stuff, never seeing torque greater than 120ftlbs.
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Jul 7, 2014 18:56
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I've got the Ryobi and it's decent, I think it goes up to 200ft/lb. I find myself using it a lot even though I have air. I really like that it's fastening torque is perfect for lugs so I don't have to bother with a torque wrench. It's probably the cheapest brand-name cordless you're gonna find, though if I did it all over again I'd go with Milwaukee.
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Jul 7, 2014 18:58
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Thanks for the info! What about corded?
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Jul 7, 2014 19:02
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