Warhammer 40k: It's the end of the game as we know it (and I feel fine)

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Traditional Games > Warhammer 40k: It's the end of the game as we know it (and I feel fine)

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Sulecrist: Apr 5, 2007; Better tear off this bar association logo.

high six, ZachAttack, and anyone else who's interested:

Here's the Dark Angels stuff I want to get rid of:

-Master of the Ravenwing in Land Speeder, painted. All of the pieces are present but the twin-linked heavy bolter and part of the railing broke off. Should be an easy fix. Also, not Dark Angels-specific, but I have two painted plastic Land Speeders with metal ventral Assault Cannons I don't want to keep.
-14x metal Dark Angels vets, all but 3 painted. Some plastic arms missing but I'm sure you have piles. Most are the typical robe models that you put whatever you want onto, but one is the bare-headed sergeant with chainsword and plasma pistol that came in the DA Tactical Squad box.
-The limited edition Dark Angels combi-plasma captain from the 5E megaforce, with an Iron Halo and back banner and hooded bare head and a cape over his left shoulder. Bare metal, unassembled, Iron Halo still on the sprue gate thing attached to the shoulder.
-7x plastic Dark Angels vets in robes. Six are bare plastic, one is basecoated (in colors). One has a jump pack and is set up to be an assault sergeant with power sword. The others are power weapon or bolter.
-Two Ravenwing upgrade sprues. A few pieces missing from each but most of the good stuff (all of the weapons as far as I can tell, all of the shoulder pads, a couple of the robe pieces) are still there.

Anyone who wants to take the whole lot can have it for $100 plus shipping. (I'm in northeastern US.) If you only want part of it, send me a PM (you can send one anyway) and we'll haggle.

Other stuff I'm probably getting rid of (these are earlier models, one or two of them borderline eBay victim rescue territory:
-10x Assault Marines, assembled and mostly painted
-12x painted Tactical Marines with Bolters
-2x painted Marines with Plasma Guns
-2x painted Marines with Plasma Cannons
-Old school Techmarine, primed black
-Old school Standard Bearer, unassembled

EDIT: anyone who wants the entire second lot can have it for $40 plus shipping.

Sulecrist fucked around with this message at 05:34 on Jul 13, 2014

# ? Jul 13, 2014 05:20

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# ? May 12, 2024 09:49

thiswayliesmadness: Dec 3, 2009; I hope to see you next time, and take care all

twistedmentat posted:

I'm thinking I'll offer up the Ork half of the box for about 80 Canadian. That's pretty much the boyz + the kans.

I assume you're mostly grabbing this for the rule book? I'd be willing to grab the orks (though I don't really need them), but it's pretty much the rules I'm after too.

# ? Jul 13, 2014 05:49

high six: Feb 6, 2010

Sulecrist posted:

high six, ZachAttack, and anyone else who's interested:

Here's the Dark Angels stuff I want to get rid of:

-Master of the Ravenwing in Land Speeder, painted. All of the pieces are present but the twin-linked heavy bolter and part of the railing broke off. Should be an easy fix. Also, not Dark Angels-specific, but I have two painted plastic Land Speeders with metal ventral Assault Cannons I don't want to keep.
-14x metal Dark Angels vets, all but 3 painted. Some plastic arms missing but I'm sure you have piles. Most are the typical robe models that you put whatever you want onto, but one is the bare-headed sergeant with chainsword and plasma pistol that came in the DA Tactical Squad box.
-The limited edition Dark Angels combi-plasma captain from the 5E megaforce, with an Iron Halo and back banner and hooded bare head and a cape over his left shoulder. Bare metal, unassembled, Iron Halo still on the sprue gate thing attached to the shoulder.
-7x plastic Dark Angels vets in robes. Six are bare plastic, one is basecoated (in colors). One has a jump pack and is set up to be an assault sergeant with power sword. The others are power weapon or bolter.
-Two Ravenwing upgrade sprues. A few pieces missing from each but most of the good stuff (all of the weapons as far as I can tell, all of the shoulder pads, a couple of the robe pieces) are still there.

Anyone who wants to take the whole lot can have it for $100 plus shipping. (I'm in northeastern US.) If you only want part of it, send me a PM (you can send one anyway) and we'll haggle.

Other stuff I'm probably getting rid of (these are earlier models, one or two of them borderline eBay victim rescue territory:
-10x Assault Marines, assembled and mostly painted
-12x painted Tactical Marines with Bolters
-2x painted Marines with Plasma Guns
-2x painted Marines with Plasma Cannons
-Old school Techmarine, primed black
-Old school Standard Bearer, unassembled

EDIT: anyone who wants the entire second lot can have it for $40 plus shipping.

I'll take the first lot. I don't have PMs, but email me at noutlaw1@gmail.com and we can set stuff up.

# ? Jul 13, 2014 06:05

AbusePuppy: Nov 1, 2012; BEST DAY OF MY LIFE!!!!!! so far.

Esser-Z posted:

Hmmmm. I was aiming for an all-battlesuit gimmick, but Kroot are pretty awesome. I appreciate all the help, and I'll definitely take a look at it. I can definitely use something else instead of the railguns; I just really like how they look and want to field them for that reason!

Yeah. A few kroot won't be too out of place, really, if they're really that useful. It's a bit disappointing to not be ALL SUITS, but gotta make some concessions to victory!

My Crisis Suits have magnets, so I can easily swap out their weapons to try multiple things! Hm. Do you think Fire Warriors could work in place of Kroot? I already have some of them, and I'd like to keep with the fancy tech aesthetic.

Again, thanks for the advice!

EDIT: Also, your version is over the points limit before I even add the kroot :V

Yeah, I think I forgot to add the cost of one of the Crisis units or something in somewhere, it's ~150pts over.

Fielding a pure-battlesuits army is possible, if not exactly optimal. However, if you're doing so you really need to keep in mind that you're gonna have a weak scoring presence and play/build accordingly. Neither Kroot nor FW are "required," but they do shore up some of your weaknesses- if you want to do without them, that's achievable, though. Personally, I really like Kroot (allies are a big part of what originally drew me to Tau) so they are almost always part of my core troop contingent, but obviously not everyone feels that way.

code:

FARSIGHT ENCLAVES
1 Commander Farsight
1 Riptide (Ion, Fusion, Override, Velocity)
1 Riptide (HBC, Fusion, Advanced Targeting, Earth Caste)
3 Crisis (2 Fusion, Target Lock)
2 Crisis (2 Plasma, 3 Gun Drone)
2 Crisis (2 Plasma, 3 Gun Drone)
1 Crisis (2 Missiles)
1 Crisis (2 Missiles)
1 Crisis (Fusion, TLFusion)
2 Broadsides (High-Yield, 4 Missile Drone)
2 Broadsides (Plasma Rifles, Advanced Targeting)

FARSIGHT ENCLAVES
1 Commander (Missile, Missile, Drone Controller, Target Lock, Talisman)
3 Crisis (2 Missiles, Target Lock, 6 Marker Drones)
1 Crisis (Fusion, TLFusion)

I'd give that a spin. Basically, since each of your troop units is so fragile, you want to be fielding as many of them as possible here. Depending on how much terrain you play with, investing in a Bastion or something else to hide behind might be useful. Still the same basic setup, but not you have some extra independent firepower in the form of solo Crisis units instead of the extra scoring from Kroot. With this one it's gonna be VERY important that you know when to duck with your units. Scattering around a few Gun Drones on the solo Missile units wouldn't be a bad idea; alternately, you could give them one twin-linked weapon to improve their accuracy a bit. I would also experiment with Burst Cannon units in place of the Plasma Rifle units- they do have a shorter range, but they can be very handy against non-vehicle targets (and they're a little bit cheaper.)

# ? Jul 13, 2014 06:53

PeterWeller: Apr 21, 2003; I told you that story so I could tell you this one.

I had a really good time trying to take apart that ork horde formation from the Ghaz supplement today. My buddy loaded the unit to the gills with toys and armor and the fearless boss pole and attached a painboy to it. It was insane, and my 1500 point all comers Eldar really didn't have the firepower to stop it. I had a good time feeding it sacrificial units while trying to maneuver the rest of my army out of the way. But my maneuvering just didn't matter. He had great luck with all his movement, run and assault rolls, and with the horde's giant footprint, I could never actually get that far from it. It was the orkiest loving thing, just this unstoppable wall of green that I could dance around some but eventually just overwhelmed anything it got close to.

# ? Jul 13, 2014 07:26

Ghost Hand: Aug 10, 2004; Rampant 40k Fanboy

Tuxedo Jack posted:

Its been openly discussed for months in these threads. Who cares?

I actually do care. But that is because I have close friends that work for Forge World. So to me ordering from recasters is like stealing from my friends. I'm not looking to start an argument, but you asked who cared. :P

# ? Jul 13, 2014 07:32

twistedmentat: Nov 21, 2003; Its my party
and I'll die if
I want to

thiswayliesmadness posted:

I assume you're mostly grabbing this for the rule book? I'd be willing to grab the orks (though I don't really need them), but it's pretty much the rules I'm after too.

Rule book and the space wolves, yea.

# ? Jul 13, 2014 07:37

my kinda ape: Sep 15, 2008; Everything's gonna be A-OK; Oven Wrangler

Is Chinaforge just a term referring to Chinese recasters or is it an actual thing.

# ? Jul 13, 2014 07:40

Thundercloud: Mar 28, 2010; To boldly be eaten where no grot has been eaten before!

ghetto wormhole posted:

Is Chinaforge just a term referring to Chinese recasters or is it an actual thing.

Just a term for recasters.

On the topic of forgeworld, who here has a local GW that have banned Forgeworld books and models?

# ? Jul 13, 2014 08:34

JerryLee: Feb 4, 2005; THE RESERVED LIST! THE RESERVED LIST! I CANNOT SHUT UP ABOUT THE RESERVED LIST!

Ghost Hand posted:

I actually do care. But that is because I have close friends that work for Forge World. So to me ordering from recasters is like stealing from my friends. I'm not looking to start an argument, but you asked who cared. :P

Not trying to start a fight with you over the point, but just because I'm curious now--do your friends (or I guess the model makers in general) get a percentage for every model that sells, or anything like that? Or is it just like a salaried job?

# ? Jul 13, 2014 08:39

long-ass nips Diane: Dec 13, 2010; Breathe.

Thundercloud posted:

Just a term for recasters.

On the topic of forgeworld, who here has a local GW that have banned Forgeworld books and models?

They were banned here on a case-by-case basis during 6th, but the tournament rules for 7th haven't really been nailed down yet and nobody seems to really care about forgeworld as much as they do arguing about unbound in general.

# ? Jul 13, 2014 08:44

Sistergodiva: Jan 3, 2006; I'm like you,
I have no shame.

Esser-Z posted:

I promised I'd take pics of stuff when I started working on it, so here we go! These Nobz are still WIP, but I'm pretty happy with them so far!

Not sure what color I'm going to do the guns. Probably just black, maybe made metallic.

A friend photoshopped the brown to khaki, and I think I like it more like that:

I'm using hexed lichen (gw xerus purple or something) and gw tallarn sand.

# ? Jul 13, 2014 08:56

serious gaylord: Sep 16, 2007; what.

Tuxedo Jack posted:

Its been openly discussed for months in these threads. Who cares?

Hey, so the Battlescribe rules for the ABG don't allow a Baneblade in the LOW slot. Is this an oversight?

I care since several of my friends work for GW and Forge world.

Not to mention everytime it gets brought up Winson tells you all to shut up about it.

# ? Jul 13, 2014 09:29

ijyt: Apr 10, 2012

Tell them their mould line locations loving suck.

# ? Jul 13, 2014 10:11

Post 9-11 User: Apr 14, 2010

BULBASAUR posted:

Here's one from one of the terrible low quality websites everybody knows about :

Why would you even show this to people??

Ouch.

As far as :filez:

guess what: I've been a global moderator on what used to be one of the top 40k sites around, (ghost town now, hooray) so had to become an armchair copyright lawyer. Games Workshops "do-can't-do" IP page changes by the month, but at times it has included sections about how doing anything to "devalue their IP" is considered a copyright violation.

Posting lovely pirate miscasts? Probably increases the value of their IP.

Ack, had to do a search engine query just to find the new location of their pages since the site was replaced.
http://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/Intellectual-Property-Policy?_requestid=8870487
http://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/Copyright-and-Legal-Information

# ? Jul 13, 2014 10:12

JerryLee: Feb 4, 2005; THE RESERVED LIST! THE RESERVED LIST! I CANNOT SHUT UP ABOUT THE RESERVED LIST!

Post 9-11 User posted:

Games Workshops "do-can't-do" IP page changes by the month, but at times it has included sections about how doing anything to "devalue their IP" is considered a copyright violation.

This setup is so pathetically easy to hit that I'm not even going to go for it. :v:

# ? Jul 13, 2014 10:23

Nichol: May 18, 2004; Sly Dog

Hay I ran out of toys to paint so my friend leant me this guy to play with. Anybody know what he is? For all I know he's not a 40k model at all. My guess would be "Khorne sorcerer" but really I don't know if he's from fantasy either. He could certainly be a Quest or Talisman guy.

Edit: quickie google says he's a gd 2010 giveaway.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Nichol fucked around with this message at 10:57 on Jul 13, 2014

# ? Jul 13, 2014 10:30

NTRabbit: Aug 15, 2012; i wear this armour to protect myself from the histrionics of hysterical women

bitches

Post 9-11 User posted:

Posting lovely pirate miscasts? Probably increases the value of their IP.

So what does posting recasts of higher quality than the original do to the IP? :v:

# ? Jul 13, 2014 10:42

Esser-Z: Jun 3, 2012

AbusePuppy posted:

Yeah, I think I forgot to add the cost of one of the Crisis units or something in somewhere, it's ~150pts over.

Fielding a pure-battlesuits army is possible, if not exactly optimal. However, if you're doing so you really need to keep in mind that you're gonna have a weak scoring presence and play/build accordingly. Neither Kroot nor FW are "required," but they do shore up some of your weaknesses- if you want to do without them, that's achievable, though. Personally, I really like Kroot (allies are a big part of what originally drew me to Tau) so they are almost always part of my core troop contingent, but obviously not everyone feels that way.
code:
FARSIGHT ENCLAVES
1 Commander Farsight
1 Riptide (Ion, Fusion, Override, Velocity)
1 Riptide (HBC, Fusion, Advanced Targeting, Earth Caste)
3 Crisis (2 Fusion, Target Lock)
2 Crisis (2 Plasma, 3 Gun Drone)
2 Crisis (2 Plasma, 3 Gun Drone)
1 Crisis (2 Missiles)
1 Crisis (2 Missiles)
1 Crisis (Fusion, TLFusion)
2 Broadsides (High-Yield, 4 Missile Drone)
2 Broadsides (Plasma Rifles, Advanced Targeting)

FARSIGHT ENCLAVES
1 Commander (Missile, Missile, Drone Controller, Target Lock, Talisman)
3 Crisis (2 Missiles, Target Lock, 6 Marker Drones)
1 Crisis (Fusion, TLFusion)
I'd give that a spin. Basically, since each of your troop units is so fragile, you want to be fielding as many of them as possible here. Depending on how much terrain you play with, investing in a Bastion or something else to hide behind might be useful. Still the same basic setup, but not you have some extra independent firepower in the form of solo Crisis units instead of the extra scoring from Kroot. With this one it's gonna be VERY important that you know when to duck with your units. Scattering around a few Gun Drones on the solo Missile units wouldn't be a bad idea; alternately, you could give them one twin-linked weapon to improve their accuracy a bit. I would also experiment with Burst Cannon units in place of the Plasma Rifle units- they do have a shorter range, but they can be very handy against non-vehicle targets (and they're a little bit cheaper.)

Alright! Thanks again! If I find all-suit doesn't work out, I do have 20 FW (and two Devilfish, which I could also count-as other vehicles) I can try out. I wouldn't mind trying out some burst cannons, entirely because they're a cool looking weapon--I got into Tau for aesthetics!

I do LIKE kroot and such, but the Crsis, Broadside, and Riptide are my three favorite GW miniatures! :v:

Soooo who wants to hit up Vassal so I can try stuff out?

EDIT: Turned one plasma unit into a Burst Cannon unit, gave each solo missile a gun drone. I think I'll try it out like that!

Esser-Z fucked around with this message at 11:06 on Jul 13, 2014

# ? Jul 13, 2014 10:55

Tuxedo Jack: Sep 11, 2001; Hey Ma, who's that band I like? Oh yeah, Hall & Oates.

serious gaylord posted:

I care since several of my friends work for GW and Forge world.

Not to mention everytime it gets brought up Winson tells you all to shut up about it.

Then I will stop referring to which of my models are recasts. Then you won't be able to tell. :v:

# ? Jul 13, 2014 11:30

Esser-Z: Jun 3, 2012

Khaki was definitely the right choice. Next up: I brownwash the khaki, clean up overspill, and start in on the rest of the details!

# ? Jul 13, 2014 11:51

Ratflinger: Jul 1, 2010

I have been trawling the internet this morning, trying to find a decent guide as how to wash and highlight models. I am not really looking to apply wash to every inch of the model as I have previously done with metals, but rather how to wash more precisely. I have coated my model with Vallejo Andrea Blue, and have some lighter shades available (Sky Blue, Deep Sky Blue). The dark grey parts are done with Dark Reaper, and the light grey is Ulthuan Grey.

I really do not know how to wash and hightlight properly, but look to learn that now as I started a new army. Any suggestions on how I would go on about things or where I could find good tutorials? Should I just apply one of the lighter shades to every edge of the model?

The model in question is here.

# ? Jul 13, 2014 13:16

AgentF: May 11, 2009

Nichol posted:

Hay I ran out of toys to paint so my friend leant me this guy to play with. Anybody know what he is? For all I know he's not a 40k model at all. My guess would be "Khorne sorcerer" but really I don't know if he's from fantasy either. He could certainly be a Quest or Talisman guy.

Edit: quickie google says he's a gd 2010 giveaway.

Games Day 2010 limited edition Chaos Sorcerer

# ? Jul 13, 2014 13:42

LordAba: Oct 22, 2012; by FactsAreUseless

Ratflinger posted:

I have been trawling the internet this morning, trying to find a decent guide as how to wash and highlight models. I am not really looking to apply wash to every inch of the model as I have previously done with metals, but rather how to wash more precisely. I have coated my model with Vallejo Andrea Blue, and have some lighter shades available (Sky Blue, Deep Sky Blue). The dark grey parts are done with Dark Reaper, and the light grey is Ulthuan Grey.

I really do not know how to wash and hightlight properly, but look to learn that now as I started a new army. Any suggestions on how I would go on about things or where I could find good tutorials? Should I just apply one of the lighter shades to every edge of the model?

The model in question is here.

For washes there are basically two ways of doing it: Slather that crap on and hitting specific areas. The slather method is easy and works on smaller items (when you start your tau infantry) and more bumpy materials like skin and cloth. You can control how the shading looks by applying more or less.
Hitting specific area is what you want to do for areas with panels, hard edges, and flat surfaces (like the tau model). For this you want a fine brush and use not a lot of wash to hit the specific lines you want. Lines between panels, and along angled areas and details are perfect for the wash.
Either way you will want to go back with the original color for cleanup.

You can see the process at about 5 minutes in: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=74p9eGwRAog

EDIT: I would actually recommend spending time with most of the GW painting tutorials; they are surprisingly good if a bit focused on one model at a time. Other than the tank you would probably want to watch the imperial knights videos as the techniques would apply more toward a riptide.

# ? Jul 13, 2014 13:54

Ratflinger: Jul 1, 2010

LordAba posted:

For washes there are basically two ways of doing it: Slather that crap on and hitting specific areas. The slather method is easy and works on smaller items (when you start your tau infantry) and more bumpy materials like skin and cloth. You can control how the shading looks by applying more or less.
Hitting specific area is what you want to do for areas with panels, hard edges, and flat surfaces (like the tau model). For this you want a fine brush and use not a lot of wash to hit the specific lines you want. Lines between panels, and along angled areas and details are perfect for the wash.
Either way you will want to go back with the original color for cleanup.

You can see the process at about 5 minutes in: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=74p9eGwRAog

EDIT: I would actually recommend spending time with most of the GW painting tutorials; they are surprisingly good if a bit focused on one model at a time. Other than the tank you would probably want to watch the imperial knights videos as the techniques would apply more toward a riptide.

Cheers! I have currently lent out the model to do a guest visit on a local tournament that fortunately does not run overly harsh painting requirements. I will look to those videos. My mind was just blown when you said I could go back and clean up after the shading, I guess I am that lost when it comes to painting. I have seen their Morkanaut video and tried to make use of that before I began. I will plan things out and try to fix the model when I get it back.

# ? Jul 13, 2014 14:18

Post 9-11 User: Apr 14, 2010

Games Workshop declared around 2011 or 2012 that 40k avatars and fan art were copyright violations.

# ? Jul 13, 2014 14:44

Ratflinger: Jul 1, 2010

Yeah, they can declare that as much as they want. It generally won't matter. They are probably only interested in showing that they do care about their IP for when something actually dubious gets done with their IP without consent.

# ? Jul 13, 2014 14:53

Raphus C: Feb 17, 2011

I played a game yesterday and was crushed by Eldar.

Things I learnt:

14 Warbikers with a Biker boss and painboy is brutal. 500ish pts that absorbed almost every gun my opponent had for 3 turns and was still a threat. The fact that they move so quickly and carry a large threats force your opponents to move and focus on them, leaving your back line under less pressure. My problem is that I only had one such threat and against a mobile Eldar list it was not enough.

Trukk Boyz are awful but for the first time in memory they achieved something for me. A squad of 6 took the last wound off an Avatar (after he slaughtered 3 of them) and thus saved themselves from being overrun.

Lootas & kannons are still fantastic.

Flashgitz are too situational. You need a target and then hope that you have good AP. They are better if they sit still but a squad of 9 didn't do much for me in the game (they took two wounds of a wraithlord when I rolled a 1 for AP). I couldn't find a decent target as most of the squishy Eldar were in tanks or on the other side of the table. Lootas are better. Longer range, higher strength and can threaten vehicles as well as infantry.

Buggies are now inferior to Deffkoptas IMO. In 7th they explode with a s4 blast. I actually lost the last HP of 1 buggy to the explosion of another buggy yesterday and lost two Buggies and 6 Boyz to exploding Buggies. Unlucky yes, however, you have to factor in that the other buggies in a squadron are in danger and they must stay within 4" of each other. Open topped means that they are at real risk of blowing up.

I used buggies to screen Wagons. Koptas are better. They have scout and can jink, buggies rely on other forms of cover so are more vulnerable.

# ? Jul 13, 2014 14:58

Winson_Paine: Oct 27, 2000; Wait, something is wrong.

Hi. Winnie here! Just a quick reminder, no one on SA gives a poo poo about protecting the dignity of GW or whatever. The IP talk can go to the industry thread, which would love the traffic. You can even discuss the ethics of recasting there.

That said, recasts and bragging on your recasts like this dude here:

Tuxedo Jack posted:

Then I will stop referring to which of my models are recasts. Then you won't be able to tell.

Makes you sound like a l33t 12 year old that has just discovered they can download Call of Duty off a torrent site. It falls under the general "no filez talk" rule, so avoid it. Don't ask, don't tell. This is an admin level policy, so discussion of how unfair it is can be taken to QCS. I am declaring a general amnesty on the filezchat prior to this post because I am a noble soul and also a very lazy man. Further recast chat can be reported or whatever.

# ? Jul 13, 2014 15:26

SRM: Jul 10, 2009; ~*FeElIn' AweS0mE*~

Raphus C posted:

Buggies are now inferior to Deffkoptas IMO. In 7th they explode with a s4 blast.

How is a squad of Orky carbombs inferior!? Drive them down the gullets of your opponents and do some damage :orks:

# ? Jul 13, 2014 16:01

CyberLord XP: Oct 18, 2005; Goldie...She says her name is Goldie

Raphus C posted:

Buggies vs Koptas

I'd still call it a toss up.

Buggies can cascade damage each other, but only on a 6 and if you keep them the full 4" apart then only half the time will the blast range reach the next one. Deffkoptas still need to deal with leadership. I think I'm probably gonna take both though. Start with Deffkoptas on the board and scout move them, call in outflanking buggies from reserve.

# ? Jul 13, 2014 16:32

Esser-Z: Jun 3, 2012

The wash definitely looked good. A friend suggested I ink them after touchups (but before details). I've not done that before, but it seems like a good idea, and I have some.

# ? Jul 13, 2014 16:38

Slimnoid: Sep 6, 2012; Does that mean I don't get the job?

Esser-Z posted:

The wash definitely looked good. A friend suggested I ink them after touchups (but before details). I've not done that before, but it seems like a good idea, and I have some.

They could definitely do with a wash and highlights. Well, a stronger wash anyway, it hardly looks like you did a wash at all from the photo.

# ? Jul 13, 2014 16:40

Esser-Z: Jun 3, 2012

Haven't washed anything but the tan yet, as I wanted to do some touchups first. I was worried about dulling it too much if I did too heavy, but I could try going over that part again when I do the rest!

I'm still... pretty new to painting, so any advice like that is welcome!

# ? Jul 13, 2014 16:44

Slimnoid: Sep 6, 2012; Does that mean I don't get the job?

Esser-Z posted:

Haven't washed anything but the tan yet, as I wanted to do some touchups first. I was worried about dulling it too much if I did too heavy, but I could try going over that part again when I do the rest!

I'm still... pretty new to painting, so any advice like that is welcome!

I wouldn't worry too much about dulling it. Especially with orks, where they are usually covered in dirt and carrying rusty hunks of metal.

The thing to remember when painting orks, is that you'll be painting a lot of them and so fretting over every detail and trying to make each one look good will drive you bonkers. Basecoat, wash, 1-2 highlights, and call it a day. You're going with quantity, not quality, and with horde armies they're one of the best ways to get the basics down and improve rapidly; you're painting so many of them, and practice makes perfect.

GW's youtube page has a tutorial on painting ork flesh, and I honestly recommend it if you're starting off. It's surprisingly good advice, and you can extrapolate their paint colors to another company if you're not using GW paints.

# ? Jul 13, 2014 16:52

Proletariat Beowulf: Jan 7, 2007; I wish meat screamed as I ate it.

Ratflinger posted:

I have been trawling the internet this morning, trying to find a decent guide as how to wash and highlight models. I am not really looking to apply wash to every inch of the model as I have previously done with metals, but rather how to wash more precisely. I have coated my model with Vallejo Andrea Blue, and have some lighter shades available (Sky Blue, Deep Sky Blue). The dark grey parts are done with Dark Reaper, and the light grey is Ulthuan Grey.

I really do not know how to wash and hightlight properly, but look to learn that now as I started a new army. Any suggestions on how I would go on about things or where I could find good tutorials? Should I just apply one of the lighter shades to every edge of the model?

The model in question is here.

I just recently began following a wash with a drybrush once-over for metallics and it looks effing brilliant. I actually got the idea from the aforementioned GW Knight Titan painting video. My problem now is dealing with the expensive impulse to now buy a bunch of their dry paints for post-wash highlight-drybrushing. :shepspends:

# ? Jul 13, 2014 16:53

Esser-Z: Jun 3, 2012

Slimnoid posted:

I wouldn't worry too much about dulling it. Especially with orks, where they are usually covered in dirt and carrying rusty hunks of metal.

The thing to remember when painting orks, is that you'll be painting a lot of them and so fretting over every detail and trying to make each one look good will drive you bonkers. Basecoat, wash, 1-2 highlights, and call it a day. You're going with quantity, not quality, and with horde armies they're one of the best ways to get the basics down and improve rapidly; you're painting so many of them, and practice makes perfect.

GW's youtube page has a tutorial on painting ork flesh, and I honestly recommend it if you're starting off. It's surprisingly good advice, and you can extrapolate their paint colors to another company if you're not using GW paints.

Well, I only have two nobz in my army (With the extras going on a display shelf), so I figured I'm make THEM look nice. The boyz will definitely be faster painting!

I do think I need to go over the khaki with more wash--I was pretty light on it the first time. I'll watch that video for flesh; I really like the green I picked out (Reaper Muddy Olive) for the base of it.

My boyz are the Warpath Marauder troops, and they don't have a HUGE amount of exposed skin (parts of limbs but not entire limbs, parts of face and a couple full faces, a couple hands IIRC), and I'll be fielding 58, so I won't go into too much detail on them :V

My list current fields a megaboss, three battlewagons with 5 meganobz each, two four-unit buggy squadrons, ten lootas, and two 30-model shoota boy mobz (with boss nob of course!). I thought I'd do relatively simply painting on the boyz, but put more work into the other units, especially the boss and meganobz, as I'll also want to display them!

Man. I really enjoy this hobby.

# ? Jul 13, 2014 17:08

Raphus C: Feb 17, 2011

CyberLord XP posted:

I'd still call it a toss up.

It is more that Deffkoptas can Jink. The things that hurt buggies also hurt Koptas but Koptas can avoid 50% of it. I used to be 100% buggies over Koptas but the game I just had showed me the value of those saves. You can occasionally get a kill with overwatch too.

Horde detachment:

HQ

140 warboss, pk, lucky stick, Bike, boss pole
75 painboy, bike
75 painboy, bike

Troops

35 Grotz
35 Grotz
35 Grotz

Fast

292 14 Bikes + Nob, Powerklaw, Boss pole
150 5 Dethkoptas with Rokkits
262 14 bikes + nob

Heavy

154 11 lootas
105 5 Kannon+5 ammo runts
140 10 Lootas

Total: 1498

2 fast moving Bike units with fnp and jink saves. You can swap the Koptas for buggies and grab some more points. The fast attack units are a bunch of mobile Power klaws that can put out a decent amount of fire power.

# ? Jul 13, 2014 17:29

Lungboy: Aug 23, 2002; NEED SQUAT FORM HELP

Bollocks, I knew I should have ordered a Stormclaw box as soon as they went live. Every decent discount seller in the UK has sold out, and the mini books are going for �25 on eBay already.

# ? Jul 13, 2014 17:38

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# ? May 12, 2024 09:49

A 50S RAYGUN: Aug 22, 2011

Does this mean Wolves are next, presumably?

# ? Jul 13, 2014 17:42

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Traditional Games > Warhammer 40k: It's the end of the game as we know it (and I feel fine)

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