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Mister Sinewave posted:There is a $300 Pick and Place / 3D Printer in prototype right now at the Hackaday projects site. How are those things are supposed to be practical for the average hobbyist? You'd have to set the machine up with a roll of each component, as well as program the picking and placing. Not very convenient for building only one circuit. It might come in handy if it could handle SMT components too small for normal humans to hand-solder, but you still need some solution for creating the circuit board itself. Plus you have to buy components by the roll when you may only need one or two.
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Jul 12, 2014 02:06
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peepsalot posted:Is there any free/open source software for 3d scanning, which can be used with a multiple shots of different angles from a regular single lens camera, or possibly with a video stream as input? MAKE had a small feature on open source photogrammetry tools: http://makezine.com/2013/08/21/diy-photogrammetry-open-source-alternatives-to-123d-catch/ However, I'd should mention that while 123D Catch is capable of some amazing results, but it has two key requirements: 1. Even lighting with no unnecessary shadows 2. Don't take too many or too few photos If you want something higher-end, Cosmo Wenman's amazing sculptural scans have been done using his DSLR and Autodesk ReCap: http://www.autodesk.com/store/recap-360?licenseType=cloudSub&support=basic&term=annual
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Jul 12, 2014 04:09
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Cockmaster posted:How are those things are supposed to be practical for the average hobbyist? You'd have to set the machine up with a roll of each component, as well as program the picking and placing. Not very convenient for building only one circuit. This writeup gives a good understanding and overview, but the short version is that it's aimed at enabling automated small-to-medium quantity PCB assembly. It's also a delta 3D printer. Right now there is a big gap in the assembly side of things - you can do them by hand, or you can pay a shop to pick-and-place your boards but unless you're doing 500+ quantities it's not worth it, the setup fees kill you. Cockmaster posted:you still need some solution for creating the circuit board itself. Plus you have to buy components by the roll when you may only need one or two. Nobody but hobbyists make their own (production) PCBs, but funny you should mention that because that's another gap in the market. PCB manufacture can be cheap but not fast. SMT components are just as easily purchased in ones and twos as anything else. If you buy anything less than a full reel you get a cut piece of tape containing your chosen quantity. If you want real savings you buy by the reel, but buying even ones and twos has never really been a problem.
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Jul 12, 2014 22:15
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My wife is an elementary school teacher, and her school is getting two Makerbot printers, and one of their 3d scanners. There's absolutely nobody who has any kind of technical ability working at the school. What are the chances they'll be able to keep them running without outside help?
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Jul 14, 2014 00:00
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Oh I'm sure they'll run fine when one of the 4th graders shoves a live frog into it to print an exoskeleton as seen on some lovely anime.
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Jul 14, 2014 00:04
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n0tqu1tesane posted:My wife is an elementary school teacher, and her school is getting two Makerbot printers, and one of their 3d scanners. There's absolutely nobody who has any kind of technical ability working at the school. It depends. A few switched on nerdy grade 8 students enamored with 3d printing who get to turn its use into an after school club and actually get given permission to police access to it; it'll last a while, though it'll need some additional capital investment in destroyable parts (hot ends and the like) If one of the teachers makes it there personal mission to figure out how the thing works and keep it going, also likely to last with additional investment. Outside of that.... weeks at most?
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Jul 15, 2014 04:40
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It's a K-5 school, so no 8th graders to help out. Honestly, I'll probably end up keeping them running, so I can get after-hours access.
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Jul 15, 2014 04:45
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What the heck are kids in the k-5 range gonna learn from 3d printers anyway? The meaning of patience? How to kill brain cells with acetone fumes?
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Jul 15, 2014 04:48
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n0tqu1tesane posted:It's a K-5 school, so no 8th graders to help out. Well if that's the case I would suggest the following: 1. Request an immediate stop to any 'out of the box experiments' so that you can get a handle on the equipment before it gets immediately broken- point out that the stuff is somewhat fragile. 2. Confer with your wife to develop some curriculum that uses the 3d printer; My suggestions: a. print some mathmatical solids b. Link in with art classes (if you can draw it in google sketchup we can TRY to print it) c. Link in with science classes (3d printed stock cars will give good understanding of aerodynamics 3. Get familiar with the software that will convert drawn images to 3d prints (normally by taking the drawn image and rendering that as a black and white bitmap then going bmp->g-code), most of the kids will not have the patience to do anything in google sketchup, but producing a bitmap is at least possible. 4. See if the school has any goals in mind for the printer (produce some primary builders for the K-2 classes, etc), prioritize those first. Illustrate how long prints actually take and that they need to be monitored for the entire print process, but also not disturbed and suggest that you take one home and one stay at the school doing simple print jobs (like the primary builders for the k-2 classes), swap every 2 weeks and re-calibrate the one that was at the school- take home student print jobs and do them at home when you can keep the printer safe and idle.
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Jul 15, 2014 05:14
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n0tqu1tesane posted:My wife is an elementary school teacher, and her school is getting two Makerbot printers, and one of their 3d scanners. There's absolutely nobody who has any kind of technical ability working at the school. You'll need to have someone in charge of doing maintenance. MakerBot is working on education curriculum, you could talk to them about access to materials. Maker Kids, a local makerspace for kids, has been working on trying to standardize some teaching stuff with Mozilla: http://learninglabs.org/making-makers/ Talk to the school about budget for supplies. Make sure they understand that the printer will need lots of filament and 3M painter's tape. If the school has iPads, Modio would be great for drag and drop assembling of extremely well-tested snap-fit monster parts in multiple scales: http://modio3d.com/ I used Modio to make this scorpion the other day:  For modelling from scratch, Tinkercad is great for simple web-based work with lots of examples: https://tinkercad.com/ If you need something a little more powerful, I suggest 123D Design (rather than Sketchup which has no built-in STL export in the free version, and only a buggy plug-in otherwise) for that: http://www.123dapp.com/design Also I imagine that tons of the kids already play Minecraft, and can do simple first-person 3D modelling with that and Printcraft http://www.printcraft.org/ or Minecraft.Print() http://www.minecraftprint.com/
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Jul 15, 2014 06:16
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 quote:Genital art elicited a very different response in Japan this week, when police arrested an artist for distributing data that enables recipients to make 3D prints of her vagina. http://www.theguardian.com/world/2014/jul/15/vagina-selfie-for-3d-printers-lands-japanese-artist-in-trouble 
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Jul 15, 2014 07:28
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What a bunch of c**ts  Anyone seen this before: http://wiki.fablab.is/wiki/Portal:Labs It's a network of hacker space type things. Turns out there's one not too far from me with a next engine scanner, a number of 3d printers and a laser cutter.  All free to use, you just book a slot.
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Jul 15, 2014 11:07
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techknight posted:Great information This helps, thanks. They do have iPads. I really have a feeling that the principal went to the ITSE conference earlier this month, saw some wiz-bang booth or presentation, and decided that she had to have the printers. EDIT: Yep, Makerbot had a booth.
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Jul 16, 2014 04:17
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techknight posted:I used Modio to make this scorpion the other day: Holy cap do you take requests?
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Jul 16, 2014 05:18
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If I had the goal of making a dock for a device, or to hold specific remotes etc, is there a repository somewhere with size specifications to work from?
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Jul 16, 2014 17:54
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w00tmonger posted:If I had the goal of making a dock for a device, or to hold specific remotes etc, is there a repository somewhere with size specifications to work from? Sometimes manufacturers are friendly with info. For example, Apple has this document for case manufacturers with drawings and measurements of basically ever mobile device they've made since 2003: https://developer.apple.com/resources/cases/Case-Design-Guidelines.pdf
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Jul 16, 2014 20:07
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Anybody used HIPS as a primary printing material before? What do I need to know to use it?
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Jul 17, 2014 06:59
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insta posted:Anybody used HIPS as a primary printing material before? What do I need to know to use it? HIPS is usually used as a soluble support material for ABS prints. I've never heard of someone printing objects with it, though I guess nothing really prevents you from doing so.
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Jul 17, 2014 16:11
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I've heard of people using hips. You can vapor polish it with limonene I find it a little more brittle than abs but is pretty tough. It sticks really well. I find hairspray works great but you could probably get it to stick to anything really.
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Jul 17, 2014 18:09
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kitten smoothie posted:Sometimes manufacturers are friendly with info. I don't suppose anyone has curated that stuff for the other mobile device manufacturers?
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Jul 18, 2014 10:00
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So I'm setting up my printrbot simple metal for the first time and am having a couple different issues getting it going. On the first front, the instructions I'm following are telling me to set the initial z height using some gcode, but I can't find where I would enter it because the instructions are using an older/different version if repetier. How do I go about setting that initial z level if I've calibrated it to a certain height. On another note. When I try and x or y home in repetier, I get a grinding noise as it reaches the far side of things and treys to keep going. Also, where is the 0,0,0 position considered on this things. Top left corner of the base, as far down as the z will go?
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Jul 20, 2014 04:57
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If you're using Repetier-Host, the origin is the surface of the bed at its lower left corner. If you're manually zeroing it, you move the head to the origin and then enter the following line in the manual command box at the top of the movement arrows: G92 x0 y0 z0 That tells the printer software that it's at 0,0,0. You can verify this with command M114 which will write out the current head position to the console at the bottom of the screen.
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Jul 20, 2014 07:11
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Is that gcode a permanent thing? The whole grinding noises thing when I tried to home it in was a little scarring For some reason last night I wasn't getting the manual gcode box so no fuckin clue why it dusky appeared at the end of the night...
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Jul 20, 2014 16:42
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So the OP hasn't been updated for a while and I'm wondering where 3D printing is it at the moment. I'm mainly wondering about printing small but relatively highly detailed parts for model kits (Gunpla for the most part) and how much it'd cost for a machine with enough accuracy to do this.
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Jul 20, 2014 23:04
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w00tmonger posted:Is that gcode a permanent thing? The whole grinding noises thing when I tried to home it in was a little scarring Did you buy it assembled? The grinding noises mean that the end-stop switches for the motors aren't being activated. They either could not be plugged in right or something is keeping the motors from hitting them.
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Jul 20, 2014 23:16
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Kazy posted:Did you buy it assembled? The grinding noises mean that the end-stop switches for the motors aren't being activated. They either could not be plugged in right or something is keeping the motors from hitting them. Got it working. One of the stops wasn't quite reaching so I've super glued a nickel to make the connection. I've run a couple test prints and they're looking pretty solid so far. I think at this point I just need to work out the details for the initial layer, as I think it might be slightly too high to start
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Jul 21, 2014 02:02
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so newest problem. Ive run the first 2 pieces of g code and theyve worked fine, but when I run an stl, the printer starts much higher off of the bed. What do I do to fix this? Im not sure why its happening... Edit: I'm thinking it might be a z height issue. Is there anything that would be making my stl z height different than my gcode z height? How do I lower things on either case? Should I be messing with the z Ax's offset in sclic3r, it do I change things somewhere else? (Repetier host) w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 05:29 on Jul 21, 2014 |
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Jul 21, 2014 04:34
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Are you making sure to drop the parts to the bed when you arrange them in the plater? Go to the object placement tab, select each of the models, and click the downwards-pointing arrow.
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Jul 21, 2014 06:31
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I hadn't dropped the parts so that's likely the problem, however things have escalated. I was having a grinding noise towards the low end of the z axis, and the couple between the rod and motor snapped. I've sent a ticket to printrbot, but its out of commission for the rest of the week... As far as I can tell it was an assembly issue on my part, I think I pushed the rod to far into the couple which was jamming things at the bend, stressing the metal. On the plus side, this thing is calibrated within a mm on the z axis so when it does come in Ill be up and running immediately.
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Jul 22, 2014 03:45
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For any UK goons there's a 3D Printing Show on in London in September. Tickets for the Saturday are £22.50 http://3dprintshow.com/london2014/
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Jul 26, 2014 11:46
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I have an aluminum heated bed which seems to be slightly out of whack: The aluminum plate is in the standard configuration with 4 screws with springs in the corner, and there is nothing touching in the center which would cause it to bow up like that. Is there some way I can fix this, or is this actually an artifact of something else wrong? The printer is a Makerfarm i3 (the old style where the X carriage rides on two smooth rods rather than extrusion). If the carriage were just sagging in the middle, then there wouldn't show the same bow on the Y axis so that points to the bed as the issue, right? (values are in mm)
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Jul 27, 2014 13:52
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Unless it's MIC-6 or something special, aluminum plate typically isn't very flat because of the way it's manufactured. There are some firmwares that let you specify a table of height values so it can automatically take that into account when printing. Obsurveyor fucked around with this message at 15:01 on Jul 27, 2014 |
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Jul 27, 2014 14:59
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CapnBry posted:I have an aluminum heated bed which seems to be slightly out of whack: Aluminum warps like that when it's heated, because it expands and you've locked it in place with your screws. The PCB heaters do it too. This is why people use plate glass, it doesn't suffer as much when warm.
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Jul 27, 2014 16:51
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insta posted:Aluminum warps like that when it's heated, because it expands and you've locked it in place with your screws. The PCB heaters do it too. This is why people use plate glass, it doesn't suffer as much when warm. Aluminum's coefficient of linear thermal expansion is 22.2 x 10-6 m/m K, which means for every degree Celsius, each linear meter of material will expand by 22.2x10-6 meters, or 0.0222 mm. The bed is 200 mm wide and we're heating to less than 80C over ambient which means there should be 0.2m * 80C * 22.2x10-6 m or 0.3552mm I would have thought the slop in the attachment screw holes would be able to absorb that much expansion per pair, especially considering they're 5-10mm long so they can sort of angle out. Over time though, I suppose it does create a problem because when I bought this bed it was perfectly flat. If one clips a piece of glass to this, won't it just bend the glass too to match the shape or does that just not happen? I feel like the glass should have 0.2mm shims in the corners to make it flat!
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Jul 27, 2014 18:45
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Glass is quite a lot more rigid than aluminum.
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Jul 27, 2014 21:02
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Can anyone advise me if a 3d printer would be any good for fine scale architectural modelling? Some of the pictures I've seen have looked very... rough. Mainly the layered look of the plastic filament sorta thing.
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Jul 28, 2014 08:56
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Babygravy posted:Can anyone advise me if a 3d printer would be any good for fine scale architectural modelling? Some of the pictures I've seen have looked very... rough. Mainly the layered look of the plastic filament sorta thing. Check out the form1 and other SLA printers, they have a much higher resolution. Got my QU-BD two-up, two parts broken so could only make the extruder before grinding to a halt 
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Jul 28, 2014 10:03
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Has anyone tried the monoprice printer yet?
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Jul 28, 2014 18:14
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It's just a flashforge clone with different branding.
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Jul 28, 2014 18:55
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Does anyone have any thoughts on the Craftbot 3D printer currently on Indiegogo? They allegedly are shipping to the first 100 backers next month and then up to 500 each month after. Print speed seems a tad slow, but the build area fairly large... especially for $500. They also have developed their own software to slice models and add supports. When my boss saw it, he gave me his credit card to buy one to play around with. This is our first 3D printer and we really have no set use for it... mainly just for playing around. Hoping it will arrive mid-September. Indiegogo campaign Company site for the printer Craftware Slicer Software I read through the last few pages of the thread and also searched and didn't find any mention of this device.
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Jul 29, 2014 15:42
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