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Kia Soul Enthusias
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom
Toilet Rascal
I think the hottest I've done is around 114. Popped all the A/C units at work, just inside their 5 year warranty though. No humidity though.

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ExplodingSims
Aug 17, 2010

RAGDOLL
FLIPPIN IN A MOVIE
HOT DAMN
THINK I MADE A POOPIE


Yikes, that's pretty brutal. Although pure heat by itself isn't too bad. I can deal with that for a while, but humidity is a killer.

When I worked valet I always used to tell people working in the rain never bothered me, it was what came after the rain that I hated.

Terrible Robot
Jul 2, 2010

FRIED CHICKEN
Slippery Tilde
I'm pretty sure I would literally die if the temperature hit 110+ here, but we also tend to have 70+ percent humidity which makes everything terrible. The humidity and I do not get along, anything above about 80f and I'll be sweating just sitting still. When I visited Vegas it was regularly 95-100f and I felt pretty good.

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


When i was in adelaide, i ran into 40*c and raining. Hot rain.

I wished for death.

Nidhg00670000
Mar 26, 2010

We're in the pipe, five by five.
Grimey Drawer
We very seldom get more than 25-30C (77-86F) here, so even though I love it when summer is here I have no idea how I'd like the temps you're all getting.

We get this instead. (That's minus 38F eqv.)



On the upside, the heating in a car breaks way less often than the AC.

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


I can relate to the hot weather talk been 90F+ here the last couple days. We've been staying in cheap hotels and hostels with no A/C (common for Europe). Last night, or this morning, our hotel room got down to 86F around 3am...it sucked. We ended up driving around Stuttgart for a couple hours purely so we could have A/C and not be in our lovely hotel room.

Apparently this heat is uncommon for Germany. Looks like I'll be flying home to upper 80's with thunderstorms all week. I'm just happy we had great weather for the Ring, was worried about lapping in the rain.

Coasterphreak
May 29, 2007
I like cookies.
August Chat Thread: Watch Motronic and Viggen Troll Each Other

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Nidhg00670000 posted:



On the upside, the heating in a car breaks way less often than the AC.

Until some idiot puts straight water in. Though that takes out a lot more than just the heater. :haw:

Honest question: what radio coolant to water do you run to deal with those kind of temps?

We've been way, way below normal all week. Highs in the 80s, lows in the.. 60s. :stare: Broken 3 low temp records this week. Usually this time of year, our highs are in the high 90s/low 100s, lows in the low 80s. August usually sees highs around 105-110. Noticed an odd reversal in how you'd think coolant temps SHOULD work - if I don't run the a/c on really hot days, the gauge gets up to about 2/3 in traffic (OBD2 data shows that to be nearly 230). Turn on the a/c, and it's rock solid at a touch under 1/2 ("solid" translates into 195-210 via OBD2, no idea why they dampen the gauge reading so much). :stare: I've also noticed the ECU doesn't seem to be very aggressive about turning on the radiator fan - turning on the a/c forces the fan on.

I did get to deal with a very intermittent radiator fan for a bit, but swapping relays fixed that. I noticed the same temp issue on a rental Cobalt I had a few years back. I'm half tempted to install a manual fan switch (I don't need the a/c on 24/7), I'm sure that wide range can't be great for longevity... right? :ohdear:

Timmy Cruise
Jun 9, 2007

some texas redneck posted:

Until some idiot puts straight water in. Though that takes out a lot more than just the heater. :haw:

Honest question: what radio coolant to water do you run to deal with those kind of temps?


From what I remember you need about 60% coolant and 40% water.

thegasman2000
Feb 12, 2005
Update my TFLC log? BOLLOCKS!
/
:backtowork:
So my DD died. It was the cam pulley and probably the cam bearings, and not worth doing. So she will be scrapped tomorrow. I may have a deal on a 1994 Peugeot 106 Roland Garos special edition. Its got a great interior and the exterior is great apart from the lacquer peel. Its a puny 1.4l but cheap and actually pretty fun to drive, no power steering or brakes for me. I will contact the scrappy and see if he has anything else available though.

Turbo Fondant
Oct 25, 2010

Well what the poo poo? I put a 20% larger diameter than stock tire on the Kia and while I haven't verified with GPS, my speedo seems to be almost dead-on accurate. Never drove it on the stock tires but it would've had to be way the hell out of whack before I bought it. I'd chalk it up to PO fuckery, but the electricals (outside the stereo, whaich was massively hosed with) are untouched.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Just replaced both rear springs on my e46 as I couldn't easily/cheaply find a single one the right size, so I've raised the back about 30mm, giving it some hilarious drag-racer rake. Sadly both drop links were either already broken or weakened enough that me hauling on the lca's broke them. So I've no anti-roll on the rear now :v:

neckbeard
Jan 25, 2004

Oh Bambi, I cried so hard when those hunters shot your mommy...
I've had my Golf wagon for almost a year now, this is the first car I've had that has roof rails on it. I believe I'm getting a lot more bird poo poo on my car than I did with my previous car. Does anyone else have this issue? Are birds more likely to poo poo on my car because they can perch on the roof rails or am I just being paranoid/retarded?

stump
Jan 19, 2006

thegasman2000 posted:

So my DD died. It was the cam pulley and probably the cam bearings, and not worth doing. So she will be scrapped tomorrow. I may have a deal on a 1994 Peugeot 106 Roland Garos special edition. Its got a great interior and the exterior is great apart from the lacquer peel. Its a puny 1.4l but cheap and actually pretty fun to drive, no power steering or brakes for me. I will contact the scrappy and see if he has anything else available though.

To be fair the 106 weighs about as much as a packet of fags so the 1.4 should move it decently. Surely the brakes are servo assisted though?

Super Aggro Crag
Apr 23, 2008




And, of course as always, kill Hitler.


My friend from HS went to school in England and just moved home with a fiance. They came over last night. Dude is British as hell but drives a Mustang and plays basketball. He thinks PB&J sandwiches are gross though.

West SAAB Story
Mar 13, 2014

by Athanatos

(and can't post for 215 days!)

Super Aggro Crag posted:

My friend from HS went to school in England and just moved home with a fiance. They came over last night. Dude is British as hell but drives a Mustang and plays basketball. He thinks PB&J sandwiches are gross though.

You can tell if he is truly infected - check him for racism levels.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Tommychu posted:

Well what the poo poo? I put a 20% larger diameter than stock tire on the Kia and while I haven't verified with GPS, my speedo seems to be almost dead-on accurate. Never drove it on the stock tires but it would've had to be way the hell out of whack before I bought it. I'd chalk it up to PO fuckery, but the electricals (outside the stereo, whaich was massively hosed with) are untouched.

Nearly every car I've owned had a speedo that read high. The last 3 were verified by GPS as reading at least 5 mph high @ 55 indicated. This was with stock size tires.

Admittedly, I've only owned Honda, followed by 1 Nissan, now a GM. The GM's speedo is dead as hell accurate (verified by GPS and OBD2 data) up to 100. Haven't tried it above 100, I don't have a steep enough hill anywhere nearby to get it past that.

Kia Soul Enthusias
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom
Toilet Rascal

neckbeard posted:

I've had my Golf wagon for almost a year now, this is the first car I've had that has roof rails on it. I believe I'm getting a lot more bird poo poo on my car than I did with my previous car. Does anyone else have this issue? Are birds more likely to poo poo on my car because they can perch on the roof rails or am I just being paranoid/retarded?

My anecdotal observation is it has to do with car color.

Goober Peas
Jun 30, 2007

Check out my 'Vette, bro


CharlesM posted:

My anecdotal observation is it has to do with car color.

And surface reflectivity.

I dunno why, but when birds seem to poo poo when they see their reflection.

blk
Dec 19, 2009
.
interesting nyt piece on subprime auto loans:

http://mobile.nytimes.com/blogs/dealbook/2014/07/19/in-a-subprime-bubble-for-used-cars-unfit-borrowers-pay-sky-high-rates/

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.

thegasman2000 posted:

So my DD died. It was the cam pulley and probably the cam bearings, and not worth doing. So she will be scrapped tomorrow. I may have a deal on a 1994 Peugeot 106 Roland Garos special edition. Its got a great interior and the exterior is great apart from the lacquer peel. Its a puny 1.4l but cheap and actually pretty fun to drive, no power steering or brakes for me. I will contact the scrappy and see if he has anything else available though.
Ah well, it would have been nice if it'd been something simple.

You sure it's not worth doing an engine swap if the car is otherwise ok?

Failing that, echoing Stump - a 1.4 in a 106 will shift just fine, and they handle pretty nicely in that "low spec French car" kind of way (don't worry about the body roll, just stick it in and keep your foot down).

Nidhg00670000
Mar 26, 2010

We're in the pipe, five by five.
Grimey Drawer

stump posted:

To be fair the 106 weighs about as much as a packet of fags so the 1.4 should move it decently. Surely the brakes are servo assisted though?

Even my 1.1 which is so poverty spec I'm pretty sure someone payed extra for high beams has power brakes, so probably.

some texas redneck posted:

Honest question: what radio coolant to water do you run to deal with those kind of temps?

For the coldest freezing point you should go 60/40, but since 50/50 gives you -40C (-40F as well) I just go with that since it's easier to mix. After reading a test a few years back where they noticed that none of the pre-mixed ones held up to their rating (the freezing point was substantially warmer than rated on all), I always mix my own. The test showed the same for pre-mixed washer fluid.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003






Is it a two fan (or two speed fan) setup? The LS1 in my truck has two fan relays and I think in a factory config, A/C only commands the high fan on. The low fan still cycles with temperature. Sounds like your low speed fan relay is dead or dying.

Also, assuming GM did it the same way, a manual fan switch is easy. You just have to ground the relay since that's all the computer does.

Fender Anarchist
May 20, 2009

Fender Anarchist

Nidhg00670000 posted:

For the coldest freezing point you should go 60/40, but since 50/50 gives you -40C (-40F as well) I just go with that since it's easier to mix. After reading a test a few years back where they noticed that none of the pre-mixed ones held up to their rating (the freezing point was substantially warmer than rated on all), I always mix my own. The test showed the same for pre-mixed washer fluid.

It's also cheaper if you mix it yourself. $16 of concentrate + $1 distilled water (ALWAYS USE DISTILLED) vs 2x$14 for the same amount of premixed.

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:
Can someone explain the differences between drum and disc brakes to me?

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.

SEKCobra posted:

Can someone explain the differences between drum and disc brakes to me?
How much detail do you need?

A disc brake is a metal disc that rotates with the wheel, and is clamped by a hydraulic calliper with friction pads (bolted to the suspension) to slow the vehicle.



A drum brake is a shallow drum (like a cake tin) which is again attached so as to rotate with the wheel, and this time the friction pads are inside it, pushed out to hit the inside wall of the drum, again by hydraulics.

InitialDave fucked around with this message at 20:21 on Jul 20, 2014

Nidhg00670000
Mar 26, 2010

We're in the pipe, five by five.
Grimey Drawer
EDIT: ^^^^ And what he said.

On a drum brake you have brakes shoes, fitted inside the spinning drum (connected to the wheel by the wheel bolts/studs) and the brake shoes are pushed outward by the wheel cylinder to grab the inside of the drum. With disc brakes a caliper pinches the spinning rotor (connected to the wheel by the wheel bolts/studs) situated between the brake pads.


Disc


Drum

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:
Sorry I didnt mean how they work, I knew that, I mean more like pricing/longeivity/brakeing power

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.

SEKCobra posted:

Sorry I didnt mean how they work, I knew that, I mean more like pricing/longeivity/brakeing power
Ok, this is where it gets a little more complicated.

Short "lies to children*" answers:
- Disc brakes are generally cheaper to make nowadays, largely through economies of scale, and use less material. However, if you need a handbrake mechanism in the assembly, a drum brake is cheaper to incorporate this into, hence why you still see rear drums on budget stuff

- Generally, a disc pad doing the same amount of work is going to last longer than a drum shoe (this is what the friction pads in a drum are called). They are generally much thicker, and better cooling helps them last longer.

- A drum can actually have a lot of power. Your braking surface is as far out as it can be from the centre of the axle for a given diameter of fitment, and this leverage really helps. This is especially true if you have twin leading shoes, which is where you design the hydraulics such that the leading edge of both brake shoes is pushed out to the surface when activated, giving more bite.
HOWEVER, braking generates heat, and that heat has trouble escaping a drum brake, meaning they rapidly go over their functional temperature and lose power - a disc brake of the same diameter, though perhaps fractionally less powerful at first, perfect activation, will remain more powerful for a hell of a lot longer.






*This is not intended to be insulting, it's actually something Terry Pratchett mentions in his Science Of Discworld books - in order to explain things plainly and quickly, you have to say things that are maybe not quite true, but will suffice to answer the question at hand.

InitialDave fucked around with this message at 20:37 on Jul 20, 2014

blk
Dec 19, 2009
.
Goddammit, I move to one of the safest neighborhoods in town to get away from property crime, and both of my cars have been broken into the past week. I accidentally left $50 in one of them because I was having a garage sale and wanted to have change; it's gone now.

Militant Lesbian
Oct 3, 2002
Actually the short "lies to children" answer is drums suck, you should never use them on anything if you have a choice, use disc brakes 24/7 erry day.

thegasman2000
Feb 12, 2005
Update my TFLC log? BOLLOCKS!
/
:backtowork:

InitialDave posted:

Ah well, it would have been nice if it'd been something simple.

You sure it's not worth doing an engine swap if the car is otherwise ok?

Failing that, echoing Stump - a 1.4 in a 106 will shift just fine, and they handle pretty nicely in that "low spec French car" kind of way (don't worry about the body roll, just stick it in and keep your foot down).

The rest of the car doesnt warrant a new motor...

The pug is fast and fun as poo poo to drive. 3 doors is a pain with kids but it was cheap and will do for now.

jammyozzy
Dec 7, 2006

Is that a challenge?
In less sober moments I've contemplated swapping a 306 GTi motor into my HDI estate when the stuck injector dies, but it has the same problem in the rest of the car isn't worth it.

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.

thegasman2000 posted:

The rest of the car doesnt warrant a new motor...

The pug is fast and fun as poo poo to drive. 3 doors is a pain with kids but it was cheap and will do for now.
Aye, small, light, relatively low-powered cheap cars are where it's at for sheer fun on the road. Mainly chasing cars you have absolutely no business trying to keep up with, smoking into roundabouts way too fast, aimed at the kerb and using the understeer to drift you on the right line out the other side, ditch-hooking left-hand turns on country lanes and scraping up the front wing with the hedge because you don't give a poo poo...

And yet never managing to break the speed limit.

thegasman2000
Feb 12, 2005
Update my TFLC log? BOLLOCKS!
/
:backtowork:
So this site is awesome!

http://www.howmanyleft.co.uk/vehicle/peugeot_106_roland_garros

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.
Well, at least your new car has an obvious nickname:

bend
Dec 31, 2012
Hi ho, Hi ho tis off to work I go...

Got sick of long term unemployment, so I'm digging a mine hole up the back. Apparently during the 1850's they got good gold about 10 feet deep, so i picked a spot between two holes and started. Got about four and a half foot down yesterday and I'm getting a bout 5 flakes to the pan.

Fender Anarchist
May 20, 2009

Fender Anarchist

RE: Drum brakes, it's not just the increased heat retention that makes them overheat, but also the fact that the drum physically expands away from the shoes so they can't grip it as hard. Disc brakes don't have this problem, as the rotor expands into the pads.

CAT INTERCEPTOR
Nov 9, 2004

Basically a male Margaret Thatcher

InitialDave posted:

Ok, this is where it gets a little more complicated.

Short "lies to children*" answers:
- Disc brakes are generally cheaper to make nowadays, largely through economies of scale, and use less material. However, if you need a handbrake mechanism in the assembly, a drum brake is cheaper to incorporate this into, hence why you still see rear drums on budget stuff

- Generally, a disc pad doing the same amount of work is going to last longer than a drum shoe (this is what the friction pads in a drum are called). They are generally much thicker, and better cooling helps them last longer.

- A drum can actually have a lot of power. Your braking surface is as far out as it can be from the centre of the axle for a given diameter of fitment, and this leverage really helps. This is especially true if you have twin leading shoes, which is where you design the hydraulics such that the leading edge of both brake shoes is pushed out to the surface when activated, giving more bite.
HOWEVER, braking generates heat, and that heat has trouble escaping a drum brake, meaning they rapidly go over their functional temperature and lose power - a disc brake of the same diameter, though perhaps fractionally less powerful at first, perfect activation, will remain more powerful for a hell of a lot longer.






*This is not intended to be insulting, it's actually something Terry Pratchett mentions in his Science Of Discworld books - in order to explain things plainly and quickly, you have to say things that are maybe not quite true, but will suffice to answer the question at hand.

I just prefer the "Discs are loving awesome, drums are loving pieces of poo poo to be avoided at all costs" explanation.

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opengl
Sep 16, 2010

I adopted this little dude on Thursday. He is awesome.





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