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Great Beer posted:Wrap them in towels and throw them in the back is what do. I have half doors though. Just eye-balling it makes it look like they'll be too big. But I'll give it a shot.
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Jul 18, 2014 07:21
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I used to transport my YJ doors in the back seat all the time. It's totally possible. It just makes it hard to fit a person back there. I actually only put a poncho liner over them once. The rest of the time I just threw them in and they were fine. I've got full soft doors now which come apart and fit behind the rear seat. Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 09:58 on Jul 18, 2014 |
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Jul 18, 2014 09:52
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Yeah, if you're planning on going doorless as more than just a novelty, I would get soft doors that can be folded up. On a semi unrelated note, Why the gently caress would anyone fold down the windshield ? On a JK it's right in the way. The only thing I could think of is that it might be handy for photographers.
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Jul 18, 2014 16:34
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Untagged posted:Is there any viable ways to transport your doors if you want to travel from one place to another without said doors? Only stuff I see on the parts websites are for door storage on a wall or bags for moving. This is for a 2DR Wrangler. on my CJ-7 with 2 piece soft doors i break em into 4 parts and carry em in the back, for hard doors, i'm not too sure, i rarely use them.
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Jul 18, 2014 17:03
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jonathan posted:On a semi unrelated note, Why the gently caress would anyone fold down the windshield ? On a JK it's right in the way. The only thing I could think of is that it might be handy for photographers. I don't know. It made installing my cage easier so I am grateful that the feature still exists, but if you fold it down: It looks ugly because the windshield is curved, it exposes a massive gap behind the dash where a lot of wiring is and like you mentioned you can't see poo poo because the windshield is thick and curved and in your face.
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Jul 18, 2014 18:50
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But if it didn't fold down how would you fit the 30 cal in the passenger side?
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Jul 18, 2014 18:55
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Putting a pintle mount on your roll cage like a civilized post-apocalyptic raider. :|
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Jul 18, 2014 19:18
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Great Beer posted:But if it didn't fold down how would you fit the 30 cal in the passenger side? Like this!   
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Jul 18, 2014 19:18
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tuna posted:Like this! that's clearly where the .50 cal goes. Can't be wasting that mounting point on a .30 cal. edit: now I see the M240B (??) in the second picture.
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Jul 18, 2014 20:06
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Is that a 4 door jk configured as a 2 door soft top truck? 
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Jul 18, 2014 21:22
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kastein posted:They didn't all have them - it was an option that bolted in in place of the little triangular fixed window. My 96 didn't have em either, but could have if I cared enough to hit the junkyard for a set. 
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Jul 18, 2014 22:47
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Great Beer posted:Is that a 4 door jk configured as a 2 door soft top truck? Here you go. Does anyone know if this thing has a custom frame? I thought it was a standard JKU frame, but the rear suspension makes me wonder.
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Jul 19, 2014 06:14
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Godholio posted:Here you go. Who is buying these other than the Egyptian government?
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Jul 19, 2014 14:18
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The US has bought a few. They're growing in popularity among contractors.
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Jul 19, 2014 18:22
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diving into fixing my speaker wiring today. Sometimes top off isnt enough   edit: Off to poach some cassowaries. Wish me luck! I finally got sick of the torx bolts that hold the spreader bars to the windshield and replaced them with a set of grade 8 flange bolts. 
Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 23:41 on Jul 19, 2014 |
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Jul 19, 2014 19:41
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J8 chat (I want to paint UN on my doors now to troll idiots) I'm not sure if the frame is much different from a regular JK. I've heard that it is, but it will also take bumpers that were designed for the JK just fine. Other than different brackets for the leafspring rear suspension. The Jeep I posted earlier with a turret is in fact not a J8. VWerks lengthened the frame 10" and custom made the rear body section to fit the new length. Looking at pictures of these things really makes me want half-doors with soft uppers. Wish they weren't so expensive.
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Jul 20, 2014 02:21
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JK half-door prices are a crime against humanity. Naturally the UN is on board. 
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Jul 20, 2014 03:35
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i've wanted steel half doors for as long as i've owned jeeps, but goddamn if the lowers alone practically cost as much as full doors 
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Jul 20, 2014 03:43
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brains posted:i've wanted steel half doors for as long as i've owned jeeps, but goddamn if the lowers alone practically cost as much as full doors There are plenty of cheaper 3rd party alternative half doors, companies like Savvy etc. but none that I know of offer soft uppers, nor work with mopar soft uppers. Best bet is to find someone who is selling their oem half doors for cheap.e: 4-door combined weight of full doors is 210lbs. Definitely interested in switching to a plastic/alu half door set now, if a brand ever makes them compatible with uppers. tuna fucked around with this message at 06:41 on Jul 20, 2014 |
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Jul 20, 2014 06:13
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I lucked out and found 40 dollar half doors at the junkyard. No door cards and the soft uppers are beat, but they work and my sister loves them.
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Jul 20, 2014 12:34
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brains posted:i've wanted steel half doors for as long as i've owned jeeps, but goddamn if the lowers alone practically cost as much as full doors That's funny because i've always wanted full soft doors - specifically the CJ7 type ones with the 2 windows. Unfortunately, nobody makes those for a YJ and so I have the 2 piece soft doors instead. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_HWhYup01zdk/TJPAUw16XbI/AAAAAAAAAzY/6IoDbMtX79c/s1600/terminator.png Storm's coming Slow is Fast posted:I lucked out and found 40 dollar half doors at the junkyard. No door cards and the soft uppers are beat, but they work and my sister loves them. yeah those were a great find. And you didn't even have to die under a car. Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 22:36 on Jul 20, 2014 |
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Jul 20, 2014 22:32
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Even the tube-framed half doors for JKs are expensive. Almost all the brands I've seen get universally terrible reviews. Poor fit, bad/broken welds out of the box, etc.
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Jul 21, 2014 00:36
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Bought the brake line and the Jeep is going to the shop tomorrow for the tie rod replacement and alignment. I have 3 paydays next month, so I'm gonna buy 2 new tires and the oil pan and trans pan and filter kit.. Cleaned it out last Sunday, washed the door facings and rocker panels. Gonna zip tie the header panel, since it cracked on the drivers side and the headlight rattles over bumps. Spring insulators are sitting in a box in my shed, waiting on me to buy springs and shocks. I was thinking about getting one of those Air Raid Jr intake kits that's just the tube and maaaaybe one of their dry filters to drop into the stock airbox. Anybody had a good experience with them?
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Jul 21, 2014 06:49
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If I wanted them I'd just bend the tube myself. But currently I have half doors for my TJ and wish I had full doors. I'm getting sick of zipping down my windows.
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Jul 21, 2014 07:06
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Ramsus posted:If I wanted them I'd just bend the tube myself. But currently I have half doors for my TJ and wish I had full doors. I'm getting sick of zipping down my windows. The hassle of the zip up windows is more than made up for in the weight difference. Then again- this time of year the doors pretty much just chill in a corner of the garage next to the rear quarter windows, cold weather coats and ice scrapers.
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Jul 21, 2014 17:02
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The funky bolts under the dash on an XJ are just external/inverted torx, right? (2000, just in case that was a late model Chrysler decision.)
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Jul 21, 2014 18:38
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I've never seen funky bolts under the dash. Which ones?
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Jul 21, 2014 23:11
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kastein posted:I've never seen funky bolts under the dash. Which ones?  I guess it's a stud, not a bolt. There's a nut that threads down over it and holds that panel in place, and the stud itself is threaded into the body behind that and appears to have a e-torx or related head. Basically, it annoyed me that we had to pull one of these out with a improper socket and I want to find the right tool to have for next time. (Sorry, I'd get you an actual picture, but google isn't very helpful and my Jeep is ~200 miles away.)
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Jul 22, 2014 01:23
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Oh, those are just regular hex but they piss me the gently caress off. You want a deep 11mm 6 point socket. You actually only need to back the nut off about a turn or two because the side of the recess there is slotted out, you just slide the kick panel plastic forward/back (iirc, toward the back of the vehicle) and it'll finagle its way out with a little cursing and screwing around. As for the stud I think they are actually spotwelded in place? I haven't cared since I discovered how easy the kickpanels are to remove once you know the trick.
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Jul 22, 2014 01:28
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kastein posted:Oh, those are just regular hex but they piss me the gently caress off. You want a deep 11mm 6 point socket. You actually only need to back the nut off about a turn or two because the side of the recess there is slotted out, you just slide the kick panel plastic forward/back (iirc, toward the back of the vehicle) and it'll finagle its way out with a little cursing and screwing around. We had to pull it out so we could mount things in the fender to the outside of the stud/bolt 
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Jul 22, 2014 01:34
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Sandbagger SA posted:The hassle of the zip up windows is more than made up for in the weight difference. Then again- this time of year the doors pretty much just chill in a corner of the garage next to the rear quarter windows, cold weather coats and ice scrapers. I live in the pacific northwest, so it rains a lot. I never used my soft top so I ended up craiglisting it. Plus taking the hard top off and on is easier. I just keep the front latched and two bolts in the back, and I can take it on and off myself by getting under it and standing up like a squat with my head crooked over. The soft top was always a bitch to put back on unless it was a warm day and had some stretch to it. I just need the hard doors to complete the package. Plus I never lock my doors or leave anything of value inside because people will just cut those plastic windows to get in. When I was in Virginia we caught a bum sleeping in it and it's been rummaged through a few times, but I've only ever lost some loose change. 
Ramsus fucked around with this message at 01:52 on Jul 22, 2014 |
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Jul 22, 2014 01:48
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So, tie rod got replaced and "aligned"..yeah..still shakes..steering feels tighter, but there is still a shake starting at around 50 or so. Receipt says tie rod and alignment, so I dunno..considering going by in the morning after I get off work, but I think the remaining shudder and pull could be the 2 toasted front tires..which are gonna get replaced next payday. Just feel a bit ripped off I guess. My wife took it to the garage after she got off work at 4 since I work overnights and it's not like she's mechanically disinclined, she's a smart cookie and she's always taken her cars here and the owners know her uncle really well..so I'm at a loss, I wanna give them the benefit of the doubt, but I'm not made out of money either and need my vehicle to work! Now with more pictures!  Drivers side  Drivers side  Passenger side 
gileadexile fucked around with this message at 07:14 on Jul 22, 2014 |
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Jul 22, 2014 06:38
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gileadexile posted:So, tie rod got replaced and "aligned"..yeah..still shakes..steering feels tighter, but there is still a shake starting at around 50 or so. Receipt says tie rod and alignment, so I dunno..considering going by in the morning after I get off work, but I think the remaining shudder and pull could be the 2 toasted front tires..which are gonna get replaced next payday. Havent read up on the original issue or which jeep, but assuming it's a TJ, XJ, ZJ or later, Your drag link ends, track bar ends and steering box should all be checked too. Easy to do. Have your prettier half sit in the jeep and turn the wheel back and fourth. Enough to get the tires to move an inch or so side to side. Use a flashlight and look at the above components for anything loose in the ball joints/tie rod ends.
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Jul 22, 2014 06:53
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Ramsus posted:Plus I never lock my doors or leave anything of value inside because people will just cut those plastic windows to get in. When I was in Virginia we caught a bum sleeping in it and it's been rummaged through a few times, but I've only ever lost some loose change. My husband's TJ is never locked either but that didn't stop someone from slashing the top, then punching through the duct tape essentially 'slashing it' again, then we also caught a hobo sleeping in it, then someone ripped the glove box and center console open...they weren't locked either...then two weeks ago we found a key twisted off in the ignition. Ah the joys of TJ ownership in the Pacific Northwest 
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Jul 22, 2014 07:19
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lol, those are some mean or dumbass bums you got in your area. I left the doors unlocked on the cherokee at my brother's house once. Someone began to pry along the door molding before trying the door. The damage was minimal as they must have thought to try the door before they finished, but they got in and stole some rock climbing shoes. My brothers wrx wasn't so lucky. They did some damage to that thing getting it open since it was locked and then stole his amp and subs. My tj won't start without manually resetting the switch on the clutch, so it's relatively safe.
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Jul 22, 2014 09:50
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gileadexile posted:So, tie rod got replaced and "aligned"..yeah..still shakes..steering feels tighter, but there is still a shake starting at around 50 or so. Receipt says tie rod and alignment, so I dunno..considering going by in the morning after I get off work, but I think the remaining shudder and pull could be the 2 toasted front tires..which are gonna get replaced next payday. When I was dealing with my death wobble it was a combination of tires with belts that let go and the trackbar being worn out.
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Jul 23, 2014 02:00
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If I take my passenger airbag out of my XJ, what kind of resistor would I have to put in it's place to extinguish the airbag MIL? No, taking the light out isn't an option, and yes, the driver airbag is staying in.
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Jul 23, 2014 04:43
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Super long shot, but I'm selling an OME 2.5" suspension lift for the WK/XK. I bought it while I briefly owned a 2006 Grand Cherokee and never installed it before selling the Jeep. Brand new and located in SoCal if anyone knows of someone looking for a lift. It's listed locally on CL for $700 but would give a nice AI price.
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Jul 23, 2014 06:17
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I'm planning an eventual trip to the junkyard and wondering if a 703 injector swap is worth it and, if so, if I've never worked with injectors would I be better off buying rebuilt injectors than I would be pulling them from 1.5 Neons and then cleaning/refurbishing them myself?
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Jul 23, 2014 19:10
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Installed some more upgrades on my stripper SE XJ. So, lets see: up to this point, I've added the center console, overhead console, power lock motors (for the alarm), and factory digital clock. Now: power windows, power mirrors (97-up style), switches for the power locks, put in a factory-style relay-based trailer light adapter to replace the passive one that was in there, wired for rear wiper, and some of the wiring for fog lights. It all took a lot longer than I hoped, but I'm going as OEM as I can, without, say, removing the entire dash to get to the wiring harness tucked behind and above the AC ducts. This means I'm using the OEM connectors and as much wire as I can get, added circuits to the fuse block in the empty spots for the options I added, and adding terminals to the dash side of the body harness connector down in the driver's kick area. Thankfully, the 2-door uses the same window regulators as the 4-door - that part was a bolt-in. Pile of parts from the last JY run, not including the window regulators. Already had the rear wiper stuff. The cooling fan is from a Mercury Villager, destined for my FC RX-7. Throttle body is for a 4.0L. Some folks seem to think It'll improve oomph on the 2.5L. For $20, I'll give it a try.  Fuseblock before - note all the empty bits:  Extra terminals  Fuse location 13 before (for the power windows. It's actually a circuit breaker feeding the terminal maked "PWR ACCY" where the power window fee plugs in.  After adding terminals:  Exciting, right? I'll spare you the others. Suffice it to say I did the same for Fuse 1 for the rear wiper, and Fuse 13 for the OEM power door lock relays (I had stand-alone relays in there for the alarm to control the PDL, but moved to the factory config. Added terminals to the relay center for that, as well.) Power mirrors were fairly easy. I found a 96-down power mirror plug at the yard and purchased an eBay mirror switch. If I hadn't found the pigtail, I was just going to use a ZJ power mirror switch. All the 96-down power mirros were missing or broken, so I grabbed a nice pair of 97+ mirrors. A little studying of the wiring diagram and I got everything working, though I did manage to get left and right motion backwards on both, because I forgot that the switch is mounted facing forwards on my year. I'll fix it when I next have the panels off. Had to get the corner filler plates off of eBay. found a nice plastic plug to fill the window crank hole, but I still need to paint to (sorta) match. I did deviate from the OEM wiring on both the power windows and the power door locks. The OEM uses positive-triggered door lock relays. My alarm uses negative pulses to trigger the door locks, so I rewired the OEM relays to negative triggers, and wired the switches accordingly. I also tend to prefer there not be constant power in the doors, so there's that, too. On the power windows, the factory uses full power through the switches. That has a tendency to burn up switches, so I used relays, and set up the PW switches to also use negative triggers. Speaking off switches, I looked for an OEM 2-door PW/PDL switch panel, but they were unobtainium, so I ended up using Ford Contour/Mercury Mystique PW and PDL switches, from the passenger and rear doors.  These are nice, front-mounted switches, with a short through and a very nice tactile click when engaged. First-gen Focus switches are the same mechanism with a different style cap:  The ford switches are a bit deep, but that's not a problem in the OEM XJ location, which is the door opening handdle surround:  Aforementioned surround marked for cutting, and the switches, waiting and ready:  Switches installed (I ended up moving the PDL switch to the first position later):  Both sides ready to go:  On to the regulators themselves. So, I got the driver's side out of a later 84-96, and the passenger out of an earlier. The difference? Bolts on the later, rivets on the earlier.  I don't have any giant rivets (nor do I want them) and I hate trying to use nuts and bolts inside the door. It just so happened that I bought something to help me install the OEM roof rack, and they were the correct size:  RACEHARD I wanted to test the Internet's cheap nutsert tool, so:  (hardened bolt - 12.x, as I recall - 6mm washers, nut that the bolt fits through loosely, grease.) Drill rivet hole larger to fit nutsert:  Insert tool with nutsert, hold nut with wrench, tighten bolt:  I did have to hold a couple with pliers to get them stated collapsing. I think for the roof rack, I will spring for the proper pulling tool. Now that I think about it, a star-type lock washer between the nut and insert probably would have helped. The crush starts:  I went a little further then removed the tool. Worked great! (digital potato unfocus - ACTIVATE!)  Subsequent ones went easier. 7 in all.  I LIKE nutserts. These things are great! Power versus manual regulator. The motor bolts in a different location from the manual crank, but the other two mounts are in the same place.  In progress:    somebody made a mess in my Jeep. Seat removal saved me lots of pain.  Done! (before I found plugs for the holes. Hopefully I can find some PW door panels eventually)   I built a relay-based trailer light adapter following the factory diagram in the service manual, using a Ford Panther ECU/Fuel pump/AC relay block. It took two of them because they don't use the 87a terminal in the original application, so I had to pirate the terminals from a second one. Also required the male and female taillight plugs form another XJ, plus another couple of terminals for the male (taillight side) one.    Ready for testing:  I ended up wiring a trailer plug on 12" of wire to the remaining leads, since it turned out that that's how the passive one that was in there was set up, so I could just plug the extension in. It worked fine, no problem. I did have to trim a lot of the protruding edges off of the housing to get it to fit through the hole in the rear sheetmetal... While I had the Jeep torn apart, I installed the nicer grey-trimmed dash panel I found (I put the magnet for my Rokform case behind the plastic this time. Now my phone sticks to the dash for no obvious reason.):  My oil pressure sender seems to have borked:  I also removed the block-off plate in the core support in front of the airbox. Not sure why it's blocked - I noted that it was open with a duct on some pictures of an MJ I spotted a while back. Don't see what it could hurt. Oh, and I found some factory tow hooks in the JY. One of the brackets is bent a bit from the accident that killed that XJ, so I'll have to straighten that one before I can put them on. More pics of all this crap at http://wright-here.net/gallery/v/kevin/jeep_cherokee/, if anyone cares.
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Jul 23, 2014 21:47
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