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If your rides normally start at Los Carboncitos your bike won't be the only one going braaaaaap.
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Jul 18, 2014 15:45
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| # ? May 11, 2024 06:16 |
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That's a sexy rear end DRZ!
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Jul 19, 2014 00:28
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 Crap!
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Jul 19, 2014 07:27
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^^^^ What happened? Akion, only if your sumo were white with slicker street tires could it look better. Otherwise, that's the best looking sumo I've ever seen in my life (ktm excluded). Good buy! I want your sumo with the force of seven suns. That full yoshi system is blowing my mind. Even my streetbike yoshi exhaust didn't come close to that visual styling. The bonkers zig zag rear logo, fat muffler, yoshi cutout heat shield on the header...  Enjoy it for me, please. It will be a long time before I can afford a sumo, or even another bike. 
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Jul 19, 2014 19:42
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detonation, ran lean, then dried out the bottom end wiping out the crank.
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Jul 20, 2014 00:06
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Been there before  One of my crank bearings somehow managed to lose half of it's balls, apparently out of the exhaust.
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Jul 20, 2014 01:01
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When my f11 seized, like 5 of the balls just disappeared, and the clearance between the crank and the case is like 2mm, way to small for the balls to escape. It's a mystery to this day
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Jul 20, 2014 01:19
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I couldn't see it happening any other way because I didn't find any shrapnel in the cases or transmission.  To this day I picture someone getting pelted with tiny BBs as they drove behind my lovely RD.
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Jul 20, 2014 02:24
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CA's newest sumo member... Snowdens Secret by God you better have fun with this effing bike or I swear I will ride over there and give you a swift kick to the nuts  . (seriously dude enjoy the gently caress out of it, there's no way you CAN'T!!!)I'm going to go cry myself to sleep now, after selling the best bike in existence. needknees fucked around with this message at 04:32 on Jul 20, 2014 |
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Jul 20, 2014 03:56
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Radbot posted:If your rides normally start at Los Carboncitos your bike won't be the only one going braaaaaap. Are you stalking me? That's like... right up the street. We should go for a ride, man. Coydog posted:^^^^ What happened? Thanks! When I saw it on CL for the price, I was like "I can come down now, with cash, if you'd like?"
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Jul 20, 2014 21:04
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needknees posted:
Its the KTM way!
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Jul 21, 2014 17:39
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So after years of alternating neglect and abuse, my DRZ appears to have finally gotten to the point where it just gives me the finger and laughs. Managed to keep a trickle charger on it all winter, having finally gotten tired of buying a new battery every spring, but now the ignition switch doesn't actually make contact in the Run position. Acted like a dead battery at first, headlight and cluster came on briefly then gave up, along with no cranking. One beer and some profanity later, I discover that it actually will light up and start as long as the key is between off and run. If you move the key all the way to the run detent it dies. Parts guy at the local dealership made sympathetic noises and quoted ~$100 for new ignition complete set. Haven't tried pulling it all apart yet, work has been busy and no fiche that I can find has any kind of exploded diagram for the ignition. Worst case I can just do a rocker switch, but if anyone has any other suggestions I'd be thrilled.
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Jul 23, 2014 01:13
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drzrma posted:So after years of alternating neglect and abuse, my DRZ appears to have finally gotten to the point where it just gives me the finger and laughs. Managed to keep a trickle charger on it all winter, having finally gotten tired of buying a new battery every spring, but now the ignition switch doesn't actually make contact in the Run position. Before I got to your last sentence I was going to say hidden rocker switch.
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Jul 23, 2014 03:16
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Could always try shooting the ignition (lock cylinder, actual electric bits preferably) full of contact cleaner. I would disconnect the battery first, just in case, lest the wrong kind of ignition manifest.
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Jul 23, 2014 03:23
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Akion posted:I live in CO 
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Jul 24, 2014 06:50
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axia posted:Where at? Denver. Akion fucked around with this message at 22:52 on Jul 27, 2014 |
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Jul 24, 2014 07:50
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Found a set of dirt wheels for the DRZ. If all goes well I'll be at loving Sturgis this year getting paid to bolt bigger radios to Harleys and riding the black hills on the DRZ whenever I'm not busy.
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Jul 27, 2014 07:48
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Yerok posted:I'll be at loving Sturgis this year Jealous.
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Jul 28, 2014 17:08
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Sturgis is go. Worst case the guy with the dirt wheels bails on me and I get to ride my boss's KTM 620
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Jul 28, 2014 21:27
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So, I installed some R&G Racing Axle Sliders on my DRZ yesterday. Front went on without a hitch, but the back ones are a little loose (the slider can spin on the spindle). Is that normal? Can I just stack some more washers on there to make it stop?
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Jul 31, 2014 16:56
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Must have caught a nail on my way home on my DRZ because I found my rear flat this morning. (gently caress) What are my options on getting the tire to a shop to replace? Can I just use jack stands along with my car's jack or is that too bootleg? My previous bike had a center stand so this was a trivial issue so I'm not sure what to do with the DRZ  Also is the tire ruined or am I good just replacing the tube? Looks like a pretty big nail but I assume the tire can just be patched if I replace the tube yeah? It's a Distanzia with loads of tread left.
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Aug 6, 2014 19:18
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Replace the tube and you'll be good. If you have access to rafters, tossing some ratchet straps around the rafters and lifting the bike that way has been successful in the past. Failing that, it's a DRZ, so just kick it on its side.
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Aug 6, 2014 19:23
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Minty Swagger posted:Must have caught a nail on my way home on my DRZ because I found my rear flat this morning. (gently caress) You can use anything to put the bike on to take the wheel off, here is one I helped with the other weekend  You can plug the tire and some people put a patch on the inside too
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Aug 6, 2014 19:27
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Ha yeah I suppose I'm over thinking it. Jack stands it is.
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Aug 6, 2014 19:41
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Minty Swagger posted:Ha yeah I suppose I'm over thinking it. Jack stands it is. Just put the sidestand down, lean it to the left until the rear comes off the ground, apply some pressure to the back until the front comes off the ground, stick a jackstand, wrench, whatever under the block and call it a day. That's how I painted the front wheel on my WR.
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Aug 6, 2014 22:43
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Minty Swagger posted:Ha yeah I suppose I'm over thinking it. Jack stands it is. I use an old beer crate to hold the bike up when i'm taking the wheels off my drz.
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Aug 6, 2014 23:25
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I wedge a piece of pipe under the bike making a tripod between the pipe, the side stand and the wheel I'm leaving on. I wrap an old cycle inner tube round the end of the pipe that contacts the bike.
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Aug 7, 2014 09:04
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Nidhg00670000 posted:So my 690 still isn't all I want it to be. It's been at the dealer twice and they've adjusted the AFR 4% fatter both times. Or so they say. My cables arrived in the mail today so I just uploaded a throttle map that was identical to the EVO 2 map to my 690sm. I also did the adjustments to the fuel map as outlined in the Code Orange thread on ADV. Did basically everything they did except I dont have multiple load maps, so I just adjusted the one load table. I did them both at the same time so its hard to say what made the difference but, oh boy, is it a lot easier to ride now. My 690 has the Akro exhaust and stock airbox and has always ran way too lean. Stalling out all the time, really wonky power delivery after it warms up (always rode great when it was cold). My throttle is way more linear now and way easier (for me) to ride around town. No more chugging at low speeds, no more random stalls. Much nicer ride. That my initial impression after a 15 minute ride. I'll probably try richening it up a bit more, engine is still running a bit too hot, not sure if this is a cooling issue or it's still running on the lean side.
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Aug 7, 2014 22:56
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Snowdens Secret posted:Could always try shooting the ignition (lock cylinder, actual electric bits preferably) full of contact cleaner. I would disconnect the battery first, just in case, lest the wrong kind of ignition manifest. Weeks later work finally lets up for a bit, couldn't find my can of contact cleaner so filled the ignition cylinder full of brake cleaner. Surprisingly(disappointingly) there wasn't any fire, and it now seems to be behaving itself. Need to find some graphite or something to lube the tumblers and all since the ignition now feels very dry when I turn the key. Haven't actually had the time to take it for a real ride, but better than it was. At least the battery wasn't dead. Ride your bikes people, don't be a me. Disuse kills more fun toys than abuse ever has or will. (Why is my chain all rusty I sprayed it down with lube last fall? I am the worst bike owner ever.)
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Aug 8, 2014 01:16
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Rode dirt for the first time today. The Distanzias performed well enough, much better than my testicular fortitude allowed me to. Also, powering straight through the middle of a river crossing is... interesting. One guy in the group had his built DRZ (470) die, so him and another guy took my bike back to his trailer since it had passenger pegs, and I rode the other guys WR450. I spent the whole ride home telling myself I just bought the DRZ and that I don't need a 450.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VeAOda8fQ-g Akion fucked around with this message at 23:29 on Aug 12, 2014 |
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Aug 11, 2014 03:52
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Yesterday was the best day of my life. The motard runs once again. That is all.
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Aug 11, 2014 19:22
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So as I mentioned in my last post I richened up the fuel mix on my 690SM, but I'm still finding that it runs way better when its still warming up. I've added 6% fueling across the board and I'm scared to add more without knowing much more. From start until it reaches it operating temp it feels like it has a lot more power. With the richer fuel mixture the bike feels better after it reaches it's operating temperature, but I can't help but feel theres some more power that I can tune out of it. Should I go richer? Is there another variable I'm not aware of here that could be creating more power while the engine is cold? I'm running a full Akro system with the stock airbox for what its worth.
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Aug 13, 2014 01:54
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The reason I've been told is that it always goes open loop until it's fully warm, and when it's warmed up it always goes closed loop when below a certain load and/or throttle opening. And when in closed loop it always tries to hit lambda 1, and disregards the fueling tables. Which is why I've ordered a blanking plug for my O2 sensor and already have a fuel map with the "O2 sensor" option unchecked, ready to upload to the bike.
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Aug 13, 2014 10:18
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Sounds like a job for a wideband sensor and O2 controller. Set the controller's lambda crossover to something awesome like 13.4AFR and it will run great when warm.
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Aug 13, 2014 16:08
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Jesus. I'd been wanting a 690SMC, but you guys make this poo poo sound like owning a spaceship or something.
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Aug 13, 2014 20:56
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This is where n8 comes in and tells us we're all stupid for wanting to change fueling on a EPA-fueled bike.
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Aug 13, 2014 20:57
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Akion posted:Jesus. I'd been wanting a 690SMC, but you guys make this poo poo sound like owning a spaceship or something. *scoffs to death at carburetors* *goes back to searching the internet for how to get a 690 to run right*
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Aug 13, 2014 21:00
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The SuperMotard Thread: Ready To Upload To The Bike.
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Aug 13, 2014 21:11
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Boss posted:So as I mentioned in my last post I richened up the fuel mix on my 690SM, but I'm still finding that it runs way better when its still warming up. Take it to a tuner with a dyno, it'll be worth your money.
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Aug 13, 2014 21:57
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| # ? May 11, 2024 06:16 |
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The 690 is pretty simple. Get rid of your O2 sensor and follow this guide: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=15358449&postcount=13 Especially the bit about the F-L map. If you don't believe me about the 02 sensor, try unplugging yours. The bike will give an error code but it will run, and run so much better. If you're only riding around town consider going one down on the front sprocket and two up on the rear. The bike is much more use-able below 20mph with this ratio and you can use the stock chain length, so if you don't like it you can always swap back. It also has the side effect of making it wheelie even easier. I have a wideband kit that I am going to install as soon as I get round to turning the plug up in stainless on the lathe (supplied one is mild). Interested to see what it shows.
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Aug 13, 2014 22:22
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