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His Divine Shadow posted:I've been considering getting a cordless drill and impact driver. I like the Makitas (read they use metal gears and such, not plastics) so I've looked at their 10.8v and 18v sets, basically boiled down to either of these: Personally, i've found that I use the 12v impact / drill MUCH more often than I use the 18v. I have a couple of sets of each including this Makita 12v set which I really like. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-12-Volt-Max-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Combo-Kit-2-Tool-LCT209W/202945283 Really, the only time i've used my 18v is for driving big lag screws into studs, and how often do you really need to do that? On the other hand, i find myself needing to throw wood screws in all the time, which is why i love the 12v impact. It's lighter, charges in about 15 minutes and is just easier to handle.
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Jul 23, 2014 22:11
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So I'm new at pneumatic tools. Picked up this compressor - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BMUGQNC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 With this hose - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0038M4ZMQ/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1 And these air coupler plugs - http://www.amazon.com/Milton-M-Style-Air-Coupler-Plug/dp/B0000AXCF4/ref=pd_sim_hi_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=0P35Q1B9BRMS9F5XP2ND All are 1/4" NPT. Standard stuff, right? Except I can't get those coupler plugs to screw into anything! They go a few turns in and then stop, and even with the aide of wrenches, I can't get them to screw in anywhere near all the way - max, about 1/3 of the way in. I've tried each of the couplers in the package with both the male ends of the hose and the female ends of two different air tools - same deal, they screw in a little and then stop with no shot of turning it further. Something wrong with the couplers perhaps? Or did I buy the wrong thing and not notice it?
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Jul 24, 2014 03:24
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You're not supposed to screw them in all the way, that's not how NPT works. You apply thread sealant and then screw them in until you can't anymore. That should be airtight. That's all you need and if you go any further, you risk splitting a fitting somewhere.
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Jul 24, 2014 04:02
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His Divine Shadow posted:I've been considering getting a cordless drill and impact driver. I like the Makitas (read they use metal gears and such, not plastics) so I've looked at their 10.8v and 18v sets, basically boiled down to either of these: I don't have either of these particular models but I have a set of the Bosch brushless 12v drill/impact driver. I just finished up a deck this week and the 12v impact had no problems putting 3 inch deck screws in for a few hours, and since the batteries recharge in about 30 minutes it means there's never really any downtime. I actually found the batteries held up almost as long as my 18v lithium ridgid drill did. If I had to pick one for general around the house use and occasional large projects like a deck, I would go with the 12v without a thought. The 12v tools are almost half the weight and I found the small size was also incredibly helpful in driving screws in tight spaces. At least for the Bosch set the 12v batteries are also much cheaper so you can pick up some extras and run both tools for not much more money.
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Jul 24, 2014 06:09
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powderific posted:Are there any meaningful differences between caulk guns? We just bought a new house and there's lots and lots of caulking that needs to be done. Bathtub, sink, many of the exterior windows, hairline cracks in a cement pad in the back, etc. The biggest difference I can think of is in what happens when you let go. There are models with a thumb release that usually have a "smooth rod" or models where there are ratcheting teeth on the plunger and you have to flip it. I find the ratcheting teeth easier for thicker caulk (construction adhesive) but the smooth plunger is great for White Lightning or whatever household silicone you plan on using where drips/over-run can be annoying.
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Jul 24, 2014 15:16
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kid sinister posted:You're not supposed to screw them in all the way, that's not how NPT works. You apply thread sealant and then screw them in until you can't anymore. That should be airtight. That's all you need and if you go any further, you risk splitting a fitting somewhere. 
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Jul 24, 2014 15:36
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Interlude posted:Thanks, I hate plumbing and anything like it for this reason I think they work like this because the threads are tapered. As the diameters increases the fittings pull together and make a tight seal. I guess a gas-tight seal is more important than a mechanically strong join that you would get with more mating threads.
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Jul 24, 2014 18:33
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You're right, but you only need around half-3/4 of a diameter worth of thread engagement for full strength anyways, even on straight-thread bolts. I don't know how that plays with taper-thread piping, though. PTFE tape, PTFE thread dope, or most Rectorseal type thread dopes should be fine for this application, but choose whichever says something about being approved for compressed air applications if you have to buy a jar. Preferably also applicable for water and natural gas because those are the 3 most common uses for threaded pipe in most homes, so you'll be covering more bases with one jar of dope.
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Jul 24, 2014 18:45
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kastein posted:You're right, but you only need around half-3/4 of a diameter worth of thread engagement for full strength anyways, even on straight-thread bolts. I don't know how that plays with taper-thread piping, though. I've always went with 1.5x the diameter and considered 1x the diameter to be marginal, but I could totally be wrong.
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Jul 24, 2014 20:01
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You're actually right and I'm completely wrong.quote:A commonly used rule of thumb states that the thread engagement length for a screw in a tapped hole should be 1.5D, where D is the major diameter of the screw. A variation on this recommends an engagement length of 1.0D for steel, 1.5D for cast iron, and 2.0D for aluminum. e: that's for straight bolt threads with expected clamp loads - here's a table of thread engagement specs for NPT. Starts at 2D, but tapers off very quickly, a 12" NPT thread (  ) only requires 1.75" of thread engagement.http://www.jgbhose.com/technical-reference-literature/normal-engagement-length.asp
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Jul 24, 2014 20:31
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I'm looking for a pressure pot that has a working pressure of 60 psi and is about 5 gallons but doesn't cost $500. Anyone have any reccos for brands to look at? The end purpose is urethane resin pressure casting.
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Jul 24, 2014 20:51
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Interlude posted:So I'm new at pneumatic tools. Picked up this compressor - What kind of tools are you planning to run off this? I love me a small hot-dog compressor, but you're pretty limited in what type of tooling you can run. These are great for nail guns, palm nailers, floor nailers and filling car tires, but anymore more than that you really need a 20-30 gallon tank.
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Jul 24, 2014 21:44
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I am looking at 18v deals still, I guess I am probably going with 18v because I just don't want to have a situation where I don't have the power when I need it, rather go the other way around. Now I found this Hitachi set, Hitachi also has a good rep from what I hear, though I dunno how they stack against makitas. http://www.toolstop.co.uk/hitachi-ktl318wr-jf-3-piece-18v-cordless-li-ion-kit-2-x-2.5ah-batteries-p69974 The twist here is that this is an impact wrench, not a driver. It's the same price as an identical kit but with an impact driver. From the specs the almost identical looking wrench has way higher torque rating though, and it'll take socket bits, which is a plus. There are 1/2 square to 1/4 hex bit adapters so I could use it as a driver too. I'm also now starting to wonder if I really will have that much use of the drill, perhaps I'd be better served to just go for an impact driver/wrench? I have a corded drill and a drill press anyway.
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Jul 25, 2014 08:35
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If you do go with the makita tools you'll be able to travel in style. http://toolguyd.com/makita-18v-lxt-cordless-folding-bicycle/
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Jul 25, 2014 13:13
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I guess I'll go a little against the grain and say I didn't like my 12v ridgid drill very much. It didnt have the power to really make holes larger than 3/4 or 1" regardless of the type of bit. RPMs were pretty low too. The 12v impact any bad and I still use that for light duty stuff. My 18v ridgid tools have plenty of power and speed, and I don't think they weigh significantly more.
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Jul 25, 2014 13:42
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coathat posted:If you do go with the makita tools you'll be able to travel in style. http://toolguyd.com/makita-18v-lxt-cordless-folding-bicycle/ That's pretty neat. The front light is powered off the batteries and it folds up too. But it's over 600 euros on Amazon.de and it doesn't come with any batteries. My main concern would be someone stealing the expensive batteries out of it while it was in the rack since there doesn't seem to be a locking mechanism for them.
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Jul 25, 2014 16:49
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coathat posted:If you do go with the makita tools you'll be able to travel in style. http://toolguyd.com/makita-18v-lxt-cordless-folding-bicycle/ I want one of those that recharges your batteries on the way to the next job site.
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Jul 25, 2014 17:00
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Cpt.Wacky posted:That's pretty neat. The front light is powered off the batteries and it folds up too. But it's over 600 euros on Amazon.de and it doesn't come with any batteries. My main concern would be someone stealing the expensive batteries out of it while it was in the rack since there doesn't seem to be a locking mechanism for them. I'm pretty sure it's got a lock on the battery compartment. But since it folds up you could just take it inside. What it really needs is a way to mount a miter saw on the back.
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Jul 25, 2014 17:17
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coathat posted:I'm pretty sure it's got a lock on the battery compartment. But since it folds up you could just take it inside. Replace the rear wheel with a blade and bob's your uncle.
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Jul 25, 2014 17:22
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What I think you mean is replace the front wheel with a saw so you can pop a wheelie and bring it down on some toubafors and cut in style. Also, a riving knife kickstand.
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Jul 25, 2014 17:29
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Rear wheel is powered, you'll have to endo your boards in half. e: or go off a jump and get like three feet of air that time
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Jul 25, 2014 17:30
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I had a go on a motor assisted bike a while back and the major problem with it was the battery. Kept loving up for some reason. Having one powered off makita batteries makes sense to me, more mature tech and such. I still haven't chosen a cordless brand yet, so this is interesting me.
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Jul 26, 2014 02:47
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Nobody has any info on the whole impact driver vs. wrench thing, I am still not sure what to think about that. Are they both essentially the same, just that the impact driver seems to deliver more torque, or does one of them deliver downwards force while the other just rotational force? There seems to be a lot of "impact drivers deliver downwards force" followed by "that's a myth and is wrong" on the internet. Which is true? I'm really close to buying that hitachi impact wrench kit because it seems like the impact wrench works identically, just more torque in the impact driver, so with an adapter I could have a really strong impact driver. Unless I am missing something important, which is the little nagging sensation that's kept me from buying anything.
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Jul 26, 2014 07:43
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An impact (wrench, driver) hammers in the rotational direction, while hammer drills hammer downwards. An impact is useless in concrete and a hammer drill is useless as an impact. One reason to not get a 1/2" impact for all your impacting needs is that you will not have any finesse and it will deliver blows that will twist the heads right off of smaller screws before you realize it got tight.
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Jul 26, 2014 08:50
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If you like Canadian Explanations, here's a good one explaining the typical inner workings of an electric impact. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SOpVnhdx58w 2:00 begins the hammer portion
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Jul 26, 2014 13:51
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coathat posted:If you do go with the makita tools you'll be able to travel in style. http://toolguyd.com/makita-18v-lxt-cordless-folding-bicycle/ Maikita is the current winner in 18V tool variety (source: a Makita poster) which is a pretty good thing. I also think makitas 2x18V battery tools are really really smart. In terms of 18V versus 12V I think it's safe to say that for most people most of the time the 12V tool is the better tool to have. When it comes to a drill though the question is whether you might want a 1/2" chuck, which as far as I know only Milwaukee has in 12V. That's the only issue for 12V I think. Heh that bike is pretty neat. I have a hypothosis that sometime soonish a standard for lithium packs like cordless tools may develop. They pack enough power that you see more and more companies trying to use them but while tool companies have learned to use lock-in to their advantage, it's actually a huge bummer for anyone who'd just like to add cordless to a couple products in their line. I could see that incentive possibly driving towards a standard sometime. Then we wouldn't have to see Makita bikes, we'd see lots of actual bike companies making bikes with semi-standard packs.
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Jul 26, 2014 15:15
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Well I got the makita set actually, a beefier one since it was only 50 euros more and for that I got a beefier drill and 4AH batteries instead of 3AH ones. Now I don't wanna be buying anything new for a decade atleast, aside from batteries I guess. http://www.toolstop.co.uk/makita-dlx2005m-18v-cordless-li-ion-2-piece-cordless-kit-2-x-4ah-batteries-p66888
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Jul 26, 2014 16:15
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His Divine Shadow posted:I am looking at 18v deals still, I guess I am probably going with 18v because I just don't want to have a situation where I don't have the power when I need it, rather go the other way around. To simplify the impact wrench vs driver, think about what you would use it for the most. An impact wrench is for running impact sockets, but there are adapters to make them take bits, like you mentioned. On the exact reverse, impact drivers have the 1/4" hex, but there are cheap adapters for each drive size to run impact sockets. For my uses, I like an impact driver better for driving screws and loosening nuts and being able to pop in a 3/8"dr, or 1/2"dr adapter to occasionally run some impact sockets. Either way you go, an accessory kit like this is super helpful too, because you can use the insert bits with your regular drill and it comes with multiples of #2 Phillips in case you lose one. http://www.irwin.com/tools/impact-accessories/33-piece-impact-fastener-drive-set
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Jul 26, 2014 16:39
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asdf32 posted:Maikita is the current winner in 18V tool variety (source: a Makita poster) which is a pretty good thing. I also think makitas 2x18V battery tools are really really smart. I went all in on the Bosch 18v Litheon line years ago and I've been fairly happy. However, all the other US manufacturers and Bosch's EU line have been releasing sweet gizmos like LED lights and leaf blowers while Bosch US has only released expensive storage systems. I have all of my portable saws and drills/drivers, but it would be nice to run a weedwhacker for a few minutes with my 18v battery collection.
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Jul 26, 2014 17:59
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Little late on the caulk gun discussion but for years I used the cheapo guns and got by. Splurged on this gun one day and haven't looked back. Cheapo guns you have to hit the release if you want it to stop oozing, this gun though you don't.
dwoloz fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Jul 26, 2014 |
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Jul 26, 2014 20:29
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Ryobi do an 18v caulk gun, it cracks me up every time I see one for sale at ~£80, without batteries.
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Jul 26, 2014 21:48
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The Ryobi is a terrible caulk gun for 99% of caulking work. However when I needed to put sanded plywood down in my trailer and using 1 stick of liquid nails subfloor per a sheet it was a godsend. I got it I believe for $50 without a battery and bought the impact with 2 batteries for $100 (gift to dad since he needed more batteries when I was done). If you tried to caulk around a bathtub or a window you'd make a huge loving mess. It moves too quick and notchy to do anything accurate.
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Jul 27, 2014 00:28
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Cakefool posted:Ryobi do an 18v caulk gun, it cracks me up every time I see one for sale at ~£80, without batteries. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-18-Volt-One-Plus-Caulk-Gun-Tool-Only-P310/100342145?keyword=ryobi+caulk+gun $40 in the US with 4.5 star reviews. I've thought about it a few times.
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Jul 27, 2014 02:22
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WashinMyGoat posted:To simplify the impact wrench vs driver, think about what you would use it for the most. An impact wrench is for running impact sockets, but there are adapters to make them take bits, like you mentioned. On the exact reverse, impact drivers have the 1/4" hex, but there are cheap adapters for each drive size to run impact sockets. For my uses, I like an impact driver better for driving screws and loosening nuts and being able to pop in a 3/8"dr, or 1/2"dr adapter to occasionally run some impact sockets. This is 100% correct, there's not a huge difference between them, its mostly what the part sticking out of the tool is. The impact driver is a rated for a little less driving force but you should be able to use it for longer. The primary purpose of an impact wrench is for nuts and bolts which is great for something like automotive work, but all the power is a little wasted if your're just driving screws. edit:neither should be used for drilling holes, I've seen several people do it before but that's the reason drills exist. Chickenbisket fucked around with this message at 07:32 on Jul 27, 2014 |
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Jul 27, 2014 07:27
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Yeah I went with a makita impact driver set instead. Though I still don't know if an impact driver creates downwards force or not, whereas an impact wrench doesn't. It's still 50/50 on this based on what I read online and I have no idea who is right and who is wrong. And now wikipedia says it creates a downwards force (it used to say differently). Big mystery.
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Jul 27, 2014 07:31
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an impact driver does not create downward force. A hammer drill is the only drill style tool that creates a downward force. Even if an impact driver created downward force it wouldn't help you, the speed a screw will go in depends on its threading and the rpm you drive it in at, nothing else matters. edit: I just checked wikipedia, the article is about manual impact drivers which are kind of like a stick you slam down on with a hammer and it converts the pressure into rotational energy. It's great if you're dealing with a rusted out screw and you cant get it with a normal screw driver but it has little in common with a battery powered impact driver. Although I have found impact drivers great for also dealing with rusted out screws as you can lean on them and something about all the sudden impacts seems to be far more successful than a drill. Chickenbisket fucked around with this message at 07:42 on Jul 27, 2014 |
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Jul 27, 2014 07:36
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asdf32 posted:http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-18-Volt-One-Plus-Caulk-Gun-Tool-Only-P310/100342145?keyword=ryobi+caulk+gun I have this and it's ok at best. I'd never try to do detailed work with it, it's just too drat heavy with a battery on it. Gives a nice consistent bead though. It's best application is probably for slathering on adhesive, like Christobevii3 mentioned. e: I think I caught it on a clearance somewhere for like $20.
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Jul 27, 2014 16:15
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His Divine Shadow posted:Yeah I went with a makita impact driver set instead. Though I still don't know if an impact driver creates downwards force or not, whereas an impact wrench doesn't. It's still 50/50 on this based on what I read online and I have no idea who is right and who is wrong. And now wikipedia says it creates a downwards force (it used to say differently). Big mystery. Here's a video that explains the concept for an impact driver with slow motion: http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how-to/video/testing-cordless-impact-drivers.aspx This video was done with a high speed camera so it's more better: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f0gSJa3L_7c The rotational force is what matters in an impact, the spring driving it downwards is probably only consequential of the need to disengage the hammer and re-engage it. Chauncey fucked around with this message at 17:24 on Jul 27, 2014 |
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Jul 27, 2014 17:05
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Christobevii3 posted:The Ryobi is a terrible caulk gun for 99% of caulking work. However when I needed to put sanded plywood down in my trailer and using 1 stick of liquid nails subfloor per a sheet it was a godsend. I got it I believe for $50 without a battery and bought the impact with 2 batteries for $100 (gift to dad since he needed more batteries when I was done). If you tried to caulk around a bathtub or a window you'd make a huge loving mess. It moves too quick and notchy to do anything accurate. It's a kind of funny progression: Glue pots and brushes, while good for wide area application, are messy, imprecise, and prone to being kicked over by cows. So we'll invent a tube for fine beads, then a bigger tube, then a mechanical pusher device for the big tubes. Whoops we now have a wide area application and all these tubes, guess we have to motorize our tool to keep our hands from cramping up.
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Jul 28, 2014 18:59
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His Divine Shadow posted:Anyone know what profile of aluminum this is, or what it perhaps is cut from? Found it in some german forum (I don't speak german and I got no useful info from that place) and it looks like a real useful piece of metal for my own table saw (my fence is identical) so I could swap between a high and low fence. Move it back and forth as well for a short rip fence or full length bisenmeyer style. It looks like 80/20 but I can't find that exact profile on their website. Maybe the links below will get the wheels turning and you can find it http://www.8020.net/T-Slot-5.asp http://vsctools.com/shop/table-saw-fence/ ^ THE POWER IS IN THE TNUTS! johnnyonetime fucked around with this message at 20:03 on Jul 29, 2014 |
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Jul 29, 2014 20:01
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