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Jay Rust
Sep 27, 2011

This is a long shot, but is there a way to see what enemies on the enemy list are currently NOT being tanked by a tank? During trash pulls in 24-mans, it's easy to lose track of an enemy and find out much later that it's been running loose, whacking healers and whatnot.

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Killsion
Feb 16, 2011

Templars Rock.

Jay Rust posted:

This is a long shot, but is there a way to see what enemies on the enemy list are currently NOT being tanked by a tank? During trash pulls in 24-mans, it's easy to lose track of an enemy and find out much later that it's been running loose, whacking healers and whatnot.

Not easily. You select a target and look up at the raid window. If a raid tank has it you'll see a red outline on their icon.

MinionOfCthulhu
Oct 28, 2005

I got this title for free due to my proximity to an idiot who wanted to save $5 on an avatar by having someone else spend $9.95 instead.
I haven't really been paying attention to Hunts but my armor is pretty lovely so I figure I need to start so I can get armor. What do I need to do? I know you track down beasts that spawn randomly and kill them but how do I join up with people because the things die really fast I hear so any help would be great thanks!

Hamsterlady
Jul 8, 2010

Corpse Party, bitches.

MinionOfCthulhu posted:

I haven't really been paying attention to Hunts but my armor is pretty lovely so I figure I need to start so I can get armor. What do I need to do? I know you track down beasts that spawn randomly and kill them but how do I join up with people because the things die really fast I hear so any help would be great thanks!

Get Teamspeak and connect to the server ts.ffxiv.in

If you can't Teamspeak, then find the hunt train of 100 people and shout "Looking for a hunt party!" and someone will invite you. Politely request that they share coordinates in party chat because you can't get in the TS, and they probably will.


edit: assuming you're on Excalibur. The TS is an Excalibur thing, but shouting for hunt parties will probably work on other servers too.

Vil
Sep 10, 2011

MinionOfCthulhu posted:

I haven't really been paying attention to Hunts but my armor is pretty lovely so I figure I need to start so I can get armor. What do I need to do? I know you track down beasts that spawn randomly and kill them but how do I join up with people because the things die really fast I hear so any help would be great thanks!

Hunts are a source of myth (level 90 gear, uncapped so grind your heart out) and soldiery (level 100 gear, weekly cap), but you can also get those from other sources besides hunts. What hunts get you that you *can't* get elsewhere are an *uncapped* source of sands and oils of time, which let you upgrade that level 100 soldiery gear to level 110. Every other source of those items has limited availability per week.

But sands and oils don't do you all that much good if you don't have the soldiery gear to begin with.

So the real question here is, how hyperbolic is your definition of "pretty lovely"?

If by "pretty lovely" you mean "really quite decent, lots of soldiery stuff, just want to push to 110" then yes, absolutely: your only real options for gear progress at this point are hunts or second coil. You can also get one oil a week from CT2 as well.

If by "pretty lovely", however, you mean "genuinely lovely for endgame" like leveling gear, or even "all right-ish but not too great" like gear in the 55-70/80 range, then hunts are still a completely viable option (for the myth and soldiery, and down the road the oils/sands too). But if they're not really your thing then you can also run dungeons and CT and first coil and stuff for upgrades (some from direct drops, and pretty much everything gives you some amount of myth and soldiery).

Rei_
May 16, 2004

The difference between confinement and rest is a shift in perspective

T7 question, how the hell do I pick up adds as OT when I have voice on me?

SpazmasterX
Jul 13, 2006

Wrong about everything XIV related
~fartz~

Rei_ posted:

T7 question, how the hell do I pick up adds as OT when I have voice on me?

Tomahawk, run to the wall, untargeted flashes, and a prayer that your DPS realize you can't do a drat thing for another 5+ seconds.

EDIT: Oh and hope you grabbed it before it automatically targeted your healers, cause you'll lose it to them too.

SpazmasterX fucked around with this message at 03:27 on Jul 27, 2014

Mr. Nice!
Oct 13, 2005

bone shaking.
soul baking.
You should be able to get off a GCD or two before you have to turn around. If you don't have legacy controls on, enable them and spinning around is so much faster.

Varance
Oct 28, 2004

Ladies, hide your footwear!
Nap Ghost

Rei_ posted:

T7 question, how the hell do I pick up adds as OT when I have voice on me?
Have Skull Sunder/Savage Blade ready to go for each add spawn and immediately combo into Butcher's Block/Rage of Halone if you can. It's obvious when they spawn (80%, after first shriek goes off, then about the same time as the next round of voice goes out), so you should be able to move to position and setup before each one spawns. You can also Flash while turned around, as that won't face you toward the mob.

Edit: Tomahawk/Shield Throw if you're out of range, but 1 or 2 of those aren't going to be enough threat to keep adds off healers/DPS. You need to get off BB/Halone as soon as possible to give yourself a little breathing room.

Varance fucked around with this message at 04:25 on Jul 27, 2014

Meiteron
Apr 4, 2008

Whoa! You're gonna be a legend!

Rei_ posted:

T7 question, how the hell do I pick up adds as OT when I have voice on me?

For us, first add tends to pop just as a voice goes out. If I get the voice I just start my combo while facing outward and give it a stack, then move to the arena edge to face it away for Tail Slap. It doesn't live long enough for 1 stack to become an issue. Prep your second hate combo skill by doing heavy swing/fast blade on Melusine when she ticks down to 80% so you're ready for add pop.

Second add comes out with Shriek so you should have hate locked down before you possibly get voiced.

Third add I just pull with Tomahawk and land another as I'm pulling it into position (I take it to the north side where #1 spawns to avoid Shriek) and then use a Flash while facing away, at which point my voice usually goes off. Then I go into normal hate combo. This is always the trickiest one so if I get voice I make sure the healers know they might be pulling hate if they're overhealing until I have it locked down.

LuckyCat
Jul 26, 2007

Grimey Drawer
I'm still kinda learning everything, despite having a couple of classes in the 30s, but the Hand professions particularly confuse me. How should I be leveling these primarily, just grinding from my Crafting Log, or doing Leves? The Leves seem a lot quicker, but I used like 20 of my allowance yesterday just to get to level 17 on Leatherworking, and I fear I may run out after only getting up to 30 or something.

MinionOfCthulhu
Oct 28, 2005

I got this title for free due to my proximity to an idiot who wanted to save $5 on an avatar by having someone else spend $9.95 instead.
Does anyone have any experience with leveling with someone who is way behind you? My girlfriend is thinking about playing, but since I'm level 50, even switching to a class at level 1 won't really do much since I'll have had done all the story quests up to that point. I guess I could start a whole new character, bleh...

Happy Blue Cow
Oct 23, 2008

I have moooore respect for
Mr. Carpainter then others. Even if I become someone's steak dinner, I'll still respect him.

MinionOfCthulhu posted:

Does anyone have any experience with leveling with someone who is way behind you? My girlfriend is thinking about playing, but since I'm level 50, even switching to a class at level 1 won't really do much since I'll have had done all the story quests up to that point. I guess I could start a whole new character, bleh...

You can join her in every part of the story quest-line that requires or allows group-play, and you can queue with her for every dungeon on your lv.50 job through the level sync system.

There really isn't a reason to start a brand-new character unless you absolutely need to gain the same amount of Quest Experience at the same time as her or level up at the exact same time or something. This MMO is probably the best game when it comes to playing with someone who is way behind you in experience/levels simply because of the level sync mechanic alongside the armoury system.

Verranicus
Aug 18, 2009

by VideoGames
So, FSHerman, what are the valuable fish to go for at 50? Don't worry about me cutting into your profits or anything, I'm stuck over on Balmung.

Manyorcas
Jun 16, 2007

The person who arrives last is fined, regardless of whether that person's late or not.

Droid Washington posted:

I'm still kinda learning everything, despite having a couple of classes in the 30s, but the Hand professions particularly confuse me. How should I be leveling these primarily, just grinding from my Crafting Log, or doing Leves? The Leves seem a lot quicker, but I used like 20 of my allowance yesterday just to get to level 17 on Leatherworking, and I fear I may run out after only getting up to 30 or something.

Guildleves are by far the quickest way to level the DoHs, the crafting log is OK for the first 10-15 levels since the reagents for everything are right there on the guild supplier but once you get beyond that it's tedious managing all the different reagents. Don't feel bad about using your leve allowances on DoH classes since they get the best benefit from them.

Another alternative is the daily Grand Company turn-ins, they give about a leve each worth of XP and a good bit of GC seals as well, although that won't be as focused as burning through leves it's a good way to ration leves or wait for them to replenish. You can see what they are from anywhere from the "Timers" menu, be sure to use this to grab everything you need from the market board/supplier NPCs before going back to the turnin.

Oh! While the general tradecraft suppliers in the big cities have a bit of everything, there's an NPC FCs can put in their houses that sells nearly everything from all the guild suppliers, so they're super useful and I wish I had access to one when I was going through the lower crafting levels.

Generally speaking you'll want every DoH to 15 > Cul to 37 (the cross-classed Steady Hand 2 here brings basic touch up to 100% success rate) > CRP/WVR to 50 > everything to 50 in whatever order, but this is a long term plan of course just so you know which goals to shoot for.

Unrelated to the rest of the post but Hildebrand so far does justice to the hype it gets in this thread :allears:

Spaceman Future!
Feb 9, 2007

Verranicus posted:

So, FSHerman, what are the valuable fish to go for at 50? Don't worry about me cutting into your profits or anything, I'm stuck over on Balmung.

Im pretty sure you're basically just supposed to walk into the ocean, drift away and breathe the water deep into your lungs. Embrace the eternal sleep so that you never have to realize there is no valuable fish.

LuckyCat
Jul 26, 2007

Grimey Drawer

Manyorcas posted:

Guildleves are by far the quickest way to level the DoHs, the crafting log is OK for the first 10-15 levels since the reagents for everything are right there on the guild supplier but once you get beyond that it's tedious managing all the different reagents. Don't feel bad about using your leve allowances on DoH classes since they get the best benefit from them.

Another alternative is the daily Grand Company turn-ins, they give about a leve each worth of XP and a good bit of GC seals as well, although that won't be as focused as burning through leves it's a good way to ration leves or wait for them to replenish. You can see what they are from anywhere from the "Timers" menu, be sure to use this to grab everything you need from the market board/supplier NPCs before going back to the turnin.

Oh! While the general tradecraft suppliers in the big cities have a bit of everything, there's an NPC FCs can put in their houses that sells nearly everything from all the guild suppliers, so they're super useful and I wish I had access to one when I was going through the lower crafting levels.

Generally speaking you'll want every DoH to 15 > Cul to 37 (the cross-classed Steady Hand 2 here brings basic touch up to 100% success rate) > CRP/WVR to 50 > everything to 50 in whatever order, but this is a long term plan of course just so you know which goals to shoot for.

This was really super helpful, thank you!

Robo Reagan
Feb 12, 2012

by Fluffdaddy
Are any of the crafting/gathering professions actually worthwhile without a ton of market babysitting, or are they something to do when you're tired of murdering things?

Leal
Oct 2, 2009
They are a change of pace when you don't want to run SC2 for the nth time... or toto rak when you do roulette to level your tank class (Just rename low level roulette to toto roulette already). If you do want to do crafting gathering is very useful cause sometimes you only need 5 or so of a material, too bad the market board only has stacks of 99 to sell you! I've been working on goldsmith lately and its mostly me running out and gathering stuff myself cause pubs demand 500 gil for a single ore, and will only part with 99 ores at a time.

Now is crafting worth it? Eh..... You can repair your own poo poo in dungeons instead of having to run to a mender I guess? You wont be able to craft anything better then you get for "free" using myth and soldiery. You can make a few glamour items, you can make dyes as well as glamour prisms. And supposedly crafting gear being crap compared to sold/myth as well as the dungeon drops is by design, Yoshi has said gear that is made by crafting will never be as good as stuff done by dungeoning.

Its nice if you want to make your own HQ gear for leveling your other DoW/M classes I guess? You can use them to make money if you're good at HQing stuff, particularly leve items.

Robo Reagan
Feb 12, 2012

by Fluffdaddy
Huh, it's odd that crafting gear can't be as good as dungeon gear. I get that most MMOs do that, but that's usually when crafting is something you do in a tiny window instead of a full fledged group of classes with their own abilities and gear.

Kalenn Istarion
Nov 2, 2012

Maybe Senpai will finally notice me now that I've dropped :fivebux: on this snazzy av

jwang posted:

With how the current leveling system works, I seriously doubt that Blue Mage will ever become a thing. And no, Hunts still won't be more tolerable with it, it just becomes more annoying since people would constantly try to reset so that the mob might use the skill again so someone can learn it. gently caress BLU spell learning.

If they were smart they'd make the blue Mage skill gets part of the class/jpb quests and the quest would explicitly take you to something that hit you with whatever, then you could use the new spell on the thing. This way lore is satisfied and you don't have nerd brains melting from lovely RNG.

Ohtsam posted:

If they did do blue mage I'd expect that the actual learning of moves would involve instanced class quests .

.... So this.

Rei_ posted:

500 weekly seal cap. Every problem is now solved.

Get hosed. This just screws anyone who hasn't already been doing hunts like crazy.

Serperoth
Feb 21, 2013




Manyorcas posted:

Generally speaking you'll want every DoH to 15 > Cul to 37 (the cross-classed Steady Hand 2 here brings basic touch up to 100% success rate) > CRP/WVR to 50 > everything to 50 in whatever order, but this is a long term plan of course just so you know which goals to shoot for.

I presume I'm not super screwed if I just casually level WVR/GSM/CRP while I reach 50 with Black Mage? I have Weaver at 20 or 21, just casually doing the GC turnins, with the plan being to level DoH classes when I hit 50.

CJacobs
Apr 17, 2011

Reach for the moon!


My girlfriend made me start over as a Lalafell because they're cute. I agree with her.

Which brings me yet another noob question: Does the stature of the character affect their damage at all? Because like, visually I may as well be shooting my enemies with toothpicks.

CJacobs fucked around with this message at 15:04 on Jul 27, 2014

Pomp
Apr 3, 2012

by Fluffdaddy

CJacobs posted:



My girlfriend made me start over as a Lalafell because they're cute.

Kwyndig
Sep 23, 2006

Heeeeeey


CJacobs posted:



My girlfriend made me start over as a Lalafell because they're cute. I agree with her.

Which brings me yet another noob question: Does the stature of the character affect their damage at all? Because like, visually I may as well be shooting my enemies with toothpicks.

Haha, of course not, size of character is just appearance, your stat differences are so minor as to not matter. Also, I hope you used the RNG for your name because the Lalafell ones are hilariously cute.

JohnOfOrdo3
Nov 7, 2011

My other car is an asteroid
:black101:

CJacobs posted:


Which brings me yet another noob question: Does the stature of the character affect their damage at all? Because like, visually I may as well be shooting my enemies with toothpicks.

From the post beneath the OP:

The Chairman posted:

Does it matter what race I pick? Mechanically, the difference in stats at Lv.50 for any given pair of races is less than 1%. The difference between races is almost completely cosmetic.

So damage should be equal between the different races, otherwise there'd be no point in choosing a Lalafell for a Disciple of War class. Hope that helps :)

Sendo
Jul 26, 2011

I don't know, losing 6 strength and 5 vitality going from Highlander to Lalafell kind of sucked. That's a bigger difference in main stat than going i100 to i110 weapon/body/legs, I really wish they would just remove the attribute bonuses between races.

Rei_
May 16, 2004

The difference between confinement and rest is a shift in perspective

Although fun fact, Lalafell monks have to jump to hit Titan sometimes during the heart phase.

Algid
Oct 10, 2007


Leal posted:

Now is crafting worth it? Eh..... You can repair your own poo poo in dungeons instead of having to run to a mender I guess? You wont be able to craft anything better then you get for "free" using myth and soldiery. You can make a few glamour items, you can make dyes as well as glamour prisms. And supposedly crafting gear being crap compared to sold/myth as well as the dungeon drops is by design, Yoshi has said gear that is made by crafting will never be as good as stuff done by dungeoning.

Its nice if you want to make your own HQ gear for leveling your other DoW/M classes I guess? You can use them to make money if you're good at HQing stuff, particularly leve items.
It's possible to make a lot of gil from crafting. However, to get to the point where you can put millions worth of product on your retainers you'll need to invest millions in materia. Also crafted gear occasionally does have end game uses, though it's pretty niche and the benefit is pretty marginal.

Serperoth
Feb 21, 2013




Am I the only one who finds random (not even a "hello please join our fc pls") FC invites annoying? I'm not in one now, and in the past two or three days I've had like five random invites, without a single word.

CJacobs
Apr 17, 2011

Reach for the moon!
Also, I mentioned earlier that this is my first real MMO. I don't really like huge wide-open co-op games but I have gotten sucked into the co-operative spirit a little bit with this one.

There was a point where some random other player and I were on the same quest chain and playing at about the same speed, so there became like some kind of silent co-op between us as we ran back and forth doing stuff for a while. Then he left to do other quests without a word between us. It was really cool actually, I can definitely see the merits of it now.

Meiteron
Apr 4, 2008

Whoa! You're gonna be a legend!

Robo Reagan posted:

Are any of the crafting/gathering professions actually worthwhile without a ton of market babysitting, or are they something to do when you're tired of murdering things?

Yes and no, but mostly no at this point.

There are a few things which consistently sell well; glamour pieces are one of them, and you can usually grind out profit from food. You can grind out smaller profits (but still profits) by finding intermediate pieces like lumber, ingots, which can benefit from the market of "people too lazy to craft their own intermediates" and make a few hundred gil per piece which adds up since making a hundred pieces wouldn't even take very long. You often don't even need max crafting levels for some of that.

Other benefits come from paying attention to what's going on in the market right now. Hunts making Mythology more prevalent and GC seals less so have made i70 crafting mats far more costly than i90 stuff and prices have changed to reflect that. Housing was/is a big seller at the start of 2.3 as a bunch of players got their personal rooms and suddenly realized they desperately needed some tables. If you're paying attention and can get on top of the trends you can make pretty serious money.

So what's the problem? Well, a few. There are a lot of crafters at 2-star level now, because levelling crafting was never particularly difficult or costly. So markets beyond the brand-new tend to show up and vanish rapidly as the horde of player crafters focus their attention on each in turn and flood supply. That means making money either requires attention, good timing, and good fortune, or takes awhile by sticking to slower safer options. In addition, almost all the big-ticket items have massive, constant undercutting going on. Some pieces I basically have to check every hour on my retainer to drop another 10k or so because there's always at least one jerk doing exactly the same thing with the same item.

Also, there's some stratification going on now that they're adding new recipes. In 2.1, a crafter could get his way to crafting 2-stars quite reliably on all classes just by getting some base HQ crafting sets and a few materia; in fact, crafting AF gear wasn't even necessary for it. In 2.2 they added 3-stars and to even start them you needed almost maxed melds on your gear and the new crafting tool they added which was quite a grind to obtain. Now in 2.3 they've added another set of tools which are even more of a grind and cost conservatively 8 million gil worth of needed materials just for one of them. I guarantee those new tools will be needed for any 4-stars added in 2.4, and the first people to get them will be the people who already have money from being the first people to get 2.2 tools. With 2.3 tools they will then have an edge in 2.4 making themselves yet more money, and on and on forever. The further ahead you are, the easier it gets to stay that way. Starting now, it's the reverse.

So basically if you do crafting casually it's good for repairs for your gear, and making your own food and potions, and maybe a little bit of pocket money probably not worth the effort when the Challenge Log and Roulettes are things that exist. If you want the real levels of gently caress-you money that finance multiple Relic Novus or whatever the glamour/minion flavour of the month is, you need to put in a lot of time and money and effort up front. Frankly if you're going for the whole deal then I would start right now when we have 3 months ahead of us before another update which is only going to move the goalposts further.

Meiteron fucked around with this message at 16:11 on Jul 27, 2014

Algid
Oct 10, 2007


Yeah, one i75 mainhand costs as much as some of the more expensive novus infusions. Even if I try to grind for it myself instead of just buying it, it'll be pretty expensive. I'm not sure how hard it is to level desynth past 60 but the lack of GC seals right now seems like it would be a huge bottleneck that would just destroy my wallet.

CJacobs
Apr 17, 2011

Reach for the moon!
I also like that players, for the most part, will try not to walk through each other. Most of the people I've met have tried to walk around me instead of through me even though just walking straight would be faster/easier. :3:

Meiteron
Apr 4, 2008

Whoa! You're gonna be a legend!

Algid posted:

Yeah, one i75 mainhand costs as much as some of the more expensive novus infusions. Even if I try to grind for it myself instead of just buying it, it'll be pretty expensive. I'm not sure how hard it is to level desynth past 60 but the lack of GC seals right now seems like it would be a huge bottleneck that would just destroy my wallet.

I'm 85 desynth on goldsmith, and I've been breaking down Artisan Spectacles which are i70 for the chance at mastercraft and fieldcraft III demimateria in order to get an i75 tool. After 400 crafts, 8400 shards, and a lot of time I've blown up 40 of them and gone 0/40 on master craft and 1/40 on fieldcraft III. A single i75 tool requires 3 mastercraft and 10 fieldcraft III. So grinding i70s for them is pretty unfeasible unless you're getting massively lucky.

Of course I've made the cash back and then some from the rose gold ingots that occasionally desynth from the spectacles, so it's not as bad as all that. Especially right now, when i70 items are soaring in value.

Of course what I should be doing is desynthing i90 items which have a higher rate on both and can drop multiples; of course I need to blow up this many i70s to even get halfway good chances at i90 success rates and will cost through the nose anyway. So either buying or grinding out the new tools is going to cost really depressing amounts of money.

Apropos of nothing, hot tip for up and coming desynthers of any craft: go do some frontlines, buy i70 pvp gear, and desynth it. Faster, cheaper skillups than crafted options and the chance at battlecraft III materia!

Pierson
Oct 31, 2004



College Slice
If I want to powerlevel fishing via leves which ones do I take? I notice some of them reappear and disappear from the questgiver and this is annoying.

edit; Or is it like Mining/Botany and there's no guarentee I'll get the same leves? Because I'm just gonna buy my way to 50.

Pierson fucked around with this message at 17:02 on Jul 27, 2014

Stanley Pain
Jun 16, 2001

by Fluffdaddy
Been playing around with the SMAA injector a bit to get some better anti-aliasing and a bit more saturated colours and a bit more pronounced HDR + Bloom.

Here's a set of screen shots to show the difference.

Here's the link with instructions I used. Followed the Windows 8 instructions since they are the only ones that worked for me.

http://www.reddit.com/r/ffxiv/comments/1sbbin/ffxiv_sweetfx_how_to/



Before:




After:





edit:

Posting a second before/after shot since someone asked for more :3:

Before:



After:




Copy/paste the following code into your sweetFX_settings.txt file (delete everything inside and then paste all of this back in, then save the file). Modified version of Myrkens. You can find more presets at the following site:


http://sfx.thelazy.net/games/game/31/


code:
   /*-----------------------------------------------------------.   
  /                       Description                           /
  '------------------------------------------------------------/

Game: Defiance
SweetFX: v1.4
Author: CeeJay.dk 
Preset: Myrkens custom HD FFXIV v2

Please note when tweaking settings that higher numbers does not always equal better (nor does lower).
Finding the best settings for your game and your taste is about finding just the right amount to apply.

If you made a good setttings preset please share it with your friends, on forums and websites,
and/or submit it to the SweetFX Settings Database : [url]http://sfx.thelazy.net/games/[/url]

   /*-----------------------------------------------------------.
  /                      Choose effects                         /
  '-----------------------------------------------------------*/

// Set to 1 for ON or 0 for OFF
#define USE_SMAA_ANTIALIASING 1 //[0 or 1] SMAA Anti-aliasing : Smoothens jagged lines using the SMAA technique.
#define USE_CARTOON       0 //[0 or 1] Cartoon : "Toon"s the image. (Interferes with SMAA, CRT, Bloom, HDR and Lumasharpen)
#define USE_ADVANCED_CRT  0 //[0 or 1] Advanced CRT : Simulates an old CRT TV display. (Interferes with SMAA, Cartoon, Bloom, HDR and Lumasharpen, and it has a very high performance cost) 
#define USE_BLOOM         1 //[0 or 1] Bloom : Makes bright lights bleed their light into their surroundings (relatively high performance cost)
#define USE_HDR           1 //[0 or 1] HDR : Not actual HDR - It just tries to mimic an HDR look (relatively high performance cost)
#define USE_LUMASHARPEN   1 //[0 or 1] LumaSharpen : Also sharpens the antialiased edges which makes them less smooth - I'm working on fixing that.
#define USE_TECHNICOLOR   0 //[0 or 1] TECHNICOLOR : Attempts to mimic the look of an old movie using the Technicolor three-strip color process (Techicolor Process 4)
#define USE_DPX           0 //[0 or 1] Cineon DPX : Should make the image look like it's been converted to DXP Cineon - basically it's another movie-like look similar to technicolor.
#define USE_MONOCHROME    0 //[0 or 1] Monochrome : Monochrome makes the colors disappear.
#define USE_LIFTGAMMAGAIN 0 //[0 or 1] Lift Gamma Gain : Adjust brightness and color of shadows, midtones and highlights (avoids clipping)
#define USE_TONEMAP       1 //[0 or 1] Tonemap : Adjust gamma, exposure, saturation, bleach and defog. (may cause clipping)
#define USE_VIBRANCE      1 //[0 or 1] Vibrance : Intelligently saturates (or desaturates if you use negative values) the pixels depending on their original saturation.
#define USE_CURVES        0 //[0 or 1] Curves : Contrast adjustments using S-curves.
#define USE_SEPIA         0 //[0 or 1] Sepia : Sepia tones the image.
#define USE_VIGNETTE      0 //[0 or 1] Vignette : Darkens the edges of the image to make it look more like it was shot with a camera lens. May cause banding artifacts.
#define USE_DITHER        1 //[0 or 1] Dither : Applies dithering to simulate more colors than your monitor can display. This lessens banding artifacts (mostly caused by Vignette)
#define USE_BORDER        0 //[0 or 1] Border : Makes the screenedge black as a workaround for the bright edge that forcing some AA modes sometimes causes.
#define USE_SPLITSCREEN   0 //[0 or 1] Splitscreen : Enables the before-and-after splitscreen comparison mode.


   /*-----------------------------------------------------------.
  /                  SMAA Anti-aliasing settings                /
  '-----------------------------------------------------------*/

#define SMAA_THRESHOLD 0.05           //[0.05 to 0.20] Edge detection threshold. If SMAA misses some edges try lowering this slightly. I prefer between 0.08 and 0.12.
#define SMAA_MAX_SEARCH_STEPS 98      //[0 to 98] Determines the radius SMAA will search for aliased edges
#define SMAA_MAX_SEARCH_STEPS_DIAG 16 //[0 to 16] Determines the radius SMAA will search for diagonal aliased edges
#define SMAA_CORNER_ROUNDING 25        //[0 to 100] Determines the percent of antialiasing to apply to corners. 0 seems to affect fine text the least so it's the default.

// -- Advanced SMAA settings --
#define COLOR_EDGE_DETECTION 1        //[0 or 1] 1 Enables color edge detection (slower but slightly more acurate) - 0 uses luma edge detection (faster)
#define SMAA_DIRECTX9_LINEAR_BLEND 0  //[0 or 1] Using DX9 HARDWARE? (software version doesn't matter) if so this needs to be 1 - If not, leave it at 0.
                                      //Enable this only if you use a Geforce 7xxx series or older card, or a Radeon X1xxx series or older card.

 
   /*-----------------------------------------------------------.
  /                      Cartoon settings                       /
  '-----------------------------------------------------------*/
#define CartoonPower 0.1             //[0.1 to 10.0] Amount of effect you want.


   /*-----------------------------------------------------------.
  /                    Advanced CRT settings                   /
  '----------------------------------------------------------*/
#define CRTAmount            0.00    //[0.00 to 1.00]  Amount of CRT effect you want

#define CRTResolution        1.2     //[1.0 to 8.O]    Input size coefficent (low values gives the "low-res retro look"). Default is 1.2
#define CRTgamma             2.4     //[0.0 to 4.0]    Gamma of simulated CRT (default 2.4)
#define CRTmonitorgamma      2.2     //[0.0 to 4.0]    Gamma of display monitor (typically 2.2 is correct)
#define CRTBrightness        1.0     //[1.0 to 3.0]    Used to boost brightness a little. Default is 1.0
#define CRTScanlineIntensity 2.0     //[2.0 to 4.0]    Scanlines intensity (use integer values preferably). Default is 2.0
#define CRTScanlineGaussian  1       //[0 or 1]        Use the "new nongaussian scanlines bloom effect". Default is on

#define CRTCurvature         1       //[[0 or 1]          "Barrel effect" enabled (1) or off (0)
#define CRTCurvatureRadius   1.5     //[0.0 to 2.0]       Curvature Radius (only effective when Curvature is enabled). Default is 1.5
#define CRTCornerSize        0.0010  //[0.0000 to 0.0020] Higher values, more rounded corner. Default is 0.001
#define CRTDistance          2.00    //[0.00 to 4.00]     Simulated distance from viewer to monitor. Default is 2.00
#define CRTAngleX            0.00    //[-0.20 to 0.20]    Tilt angle in radians (X coordinates)
#define CRTAngleY            -0.10   //[-0.20 to 0.20]    Tilt angle in radians (Y coordinates). (Value of -0.15 gives the 'arcade tilt' look)
#define CRTOverScan          1.01    //[1.00 to 1.10]     Overscan (e.g. 1.02 for 2% overscan). Default is 1.01
#define CRTOversample        0       //[0 or 1]           Enable 3x oversampling of the beam profile (warning : performance hit)

   /*-----------------------------------------------------------.
  /                       Bloom settings                        /
  '-----------------------------------------------------------*/
#define BloomThreshold 14.25 //[0.00 to 50.00] Threshold for what is a bright light (that causes bloom) and what isn't.
#define BloomPower 0.003     //[0.000 to 8.000] Strength of the bloom
#define BloomWidth 0.0120    //[0.0000 to 1.0000] Width of the bloom


   /*-----------------------------------------------------------.
  /                        HDR settings                         /
  '-----------------------------------------------------------*/
#define HDRPower 1.10  //[0.00 to 8.00] Strangely lowering this makes the image brighter
#define radius2  0.88  //[0.00 to 8.00] Raising this seems to make the effect stronger and also brighter

   /*-----------------------------------------------------------.
  /                     LumaSharpen settings                    /
  '-----------------------------------------------------------*/
// -- Sharpening --
#define sharp_strength .10  // [0.10 to 3.00] Strength of the sharpening
#define sharp_clamp    0.035  // [0.000 to 1.000] Limits maximum amount of sharpening a pixel recieves - Default is 0.035

// -- Advanced sharpening settings --
#define pattern 4        // [1|2|3|4] Choose a sample pattern. 1 = Fast, 2 = Normal, 3 = Wider, 4 = Pyramid shaped.
#define offset_bias 1.0  // [0.0 to 6.0] Offset bias adjusts the radius of the sampling pattern.
                         // I designed the pattern for offset_bias 1.0, but feel free to experiment.
                           
// -- Debug sharpening settings --
#define show_sharpen 0   // [0 or 1] Visualize the strength of the sharpen (multiplied by 4 to see it better)



   /*-----------------------------------------------------------.
  /                      TECHNICOLOR settings                   /
  '-----------------------------------------------------------*/
#define TechniAmount 0.4         //[0.00 to 1.00]
#define TechniPower  4.0         //[0.00 to 8.00]
#define redNegativeAmount   0.88 //[0.00 to 1.00]
#define greenNegativeAmount 0.88 //[0.00 to 1.00]
#define blueNegativeAmount  0.88 //[0.00 to 1.00]


   /*-----------------------------------------------------------.
  /                      Cineon DPX settings                    /
  '-----------------------------------------------------------*/
#define Red   15.0  //[1.0 to 15.0]
#define Green 15.0  //[1.0 to 15.0]
#define Blue  15.0  //[1.0 to 15.0]

#define ColorGamma    2.0  //[0.1 to 2.5] Adjusts the colorfulness of the effect in a manner similar to Vibrance. 1.0 is neutral.
#define DPXSaturation 1.0 //[0.0 to 8.0] Adjust saturation of the effect. 1.0 is neutral.

#define RedC   0.36  //[0.60 to 0.20]
#define GreenC 0.36  //[0.60 to 0.20]
#define BlueC  0.34  //[0.60 to 0.20]

#define Blend 0.07    //[0.00 to 1.00] How strong the effect should be.


   /*-----------------------------------------------------------.
  /                      Monochrome settings                    /
  '-----------------------------------------------------------*/
#define Monochrome_conversion_values float3(0.18,0.41,0.41) //[0.00 to 1.00] Percentage of RGB to include (should sum up to 1.00)


   /*-----------------------------------------------------------.
  /                      Lift Gamma Gain settings               /
  '-----------------------------------------------------------*/
#define RGB_Lift  float3(1.030, 1.030, 1.030)  //[0.000 to 2.000] Adjust shadows for Red, Green and Blue
#define RGB_Gamma float3(1.030, 1.030, 1.030)  //[0.000 to 2.000] Adjust midtones for Red, Green and Blue
#define RGB_Gain  float3(1.030, 1.030, 1.030)  //[0.000 to 2.000] Adjust highlights for Red, Green and Blue


   /*-----------------------------------------------------------.
  /                        Tonemap settings                     /
  '-----------------------------------------------------------*/
#define Gamma 1.0       //[0.000 to 2.000] Adjust midtones

#define Exposure 0.01    //[-1.000 to 1.000] Adjust exposure

#define Saturation 0.15  //[-1.000 to 1.000] Adjust saturation

#define Bleach 0.000     //[0.000 to 1.000] Brightens the shadows and fades the colors

#define Defog 0.00 //[0.000 to 1.000] How much of the color tint to remove
#define FogColor float3(0.00, 0.00, 2.55) //[0.00 to 2.55, 0.00 to 2.55, 0.00 to 2.55] What color to remove - default is blue

   /*-----------------------------------------------------------.
  /                       Vibrance settings                     /
  '-----------------------------------------------------------*/
#define Vibrance 0.30 //[-1.00 to 1.00] Intelligently saturates (or desaturates if you use negative values) the pixels depending on their original saturation.


   /*-----------------------------------------------------------.
  /                        Curves settings                      /
  '-----------------------------------------------------------*/
#define Curves_mode 2        //[0|1|2] Choose what to apply contrast to. 0 = Luma, 1 = Chroma, 2 = both Luma and Chroma. Default is 0 (Luma)
#define Curves_contrast 0.30 //[-1.00 to 1.00] The amount of contrast you want

// -- Advanced curve settings --
#define Curves_formula 3     //[1|2|3|4|5|6|7|8|9] The contrast s-curve you want to use.
                             //1 = Sine, 2 = Abs split, 3 = Smoothstep, 4 = Exp formula, 5 = Simplified Catmull-Rom (0,0,1,1), 6 = Perlins Smootherstep
                             //7 = Abs add, 8 = Techicolor Cinestyle, 9 = Parabola.
                             //Note that Technicolor Cinestyle is practically identical to Sine, but runs slower. In fact I think the difference might only be due to rounding errors.
                             //I prefer 2 myself, but 3 is a nice alternative with a little more effect (but harsher on the highlight and shadows) and it's the fastest formula.
                             
   /*-----------------------------------------------------------.
  /                         Sepia settings                      /
  '-----------------------------------------------------------*/
#define ColorTone float3(1.40, 1.10, 0.90) //[0.00 to 2.55, 0.00 to 2.55, 0.00 to 2.55] What color to tint the image
#define GreyPower  0.11                    //[0.00 to 1.00] How much desaturate the image before tinting it
#define SepiaPower 0.58                    //[0.00 to 1.00] How much to tint the image


   /*-----------------------------------------------------------.
  /                       Vignette settings                     /
  '-----------------------------------------------------------*/
#define VignetteRatio 1.00    //[0.15 to 6.00]  Sets a width to height ratio. 1.00 (1/1) is perfectly round, while 1.60 (16/10) is 60 % wider than it's high.
#define VignetteRadius 1.00   //[-1.00 to 3.00] lower values = stronger radial effect from center
#define VignetteAmount -1.00  //[-2.00 to 1.00] Strength of black. -2.00 = Max Black, 1.00 = Max White.
#define VignetteSlope 8       //[1 to 16] How far away from the center the change should start to really grow strong (odd numbers cause a larger fps drop than even numbers)
#define VignetteCenter float2(0.500, 0.500)  //[0.000 to 1.000, 0.000 to 1.000] Center of effect.


   /*-----------------------------------------------------------.
  /                        Dither settings                      /
  '-----------------------------------------------------------*/
#define dither_method 2  //[1 or 2] 1 = Ordering dithering (good and very fast), 2 = Random dithering (even better dithering but not as fast)

//Note that the patterns used by Dither, makes an image harder to compress.
//This can make your screenshots and video recordings take up more space.


   /*-----------------------------------------------------------.
  /                        Border settings                      /
  '-----------------------------------------------------------*/
//No settings yet, beyond switching it on or off in the top section.


   /*-----------------------------------------------------------.
  /                     Splitscreen settings                    /
  '-----------------------------------------------------------*/
#define splitscreen_mode 1  //[1|2|3|4|5]  1 = Vertical 50/50 split, 2 = Vertical 25/50/25 split, 3 = Vertical 50/50 angled split, 4 = Horizontal 50/50 split, 5 = Horizontal 25/50/25 split
 

  /*-----------------------------------------------------------.
  /                      Key settings                           /
  '-----------------------------------------------------------*/

// This is the section where you can define your own key mapping
// See the following URL to find out what keycode a key has:
// [url]http://www.cambiaresearch.com/articles/15/javascript-char-codes-key-codes[/url]

// key_toggle_sweetfx = 145
// key_screenshot     = 44
// key_reload_sweetfx = 19


   /*-----------------------------------------------------------.
  /                  Misc settings                              /
  '-----------------------------------------------------------*/
// You can load and chain other DirectX wrappers (ENB, Helix, Windower...)
// If the external wrapper is already named d3d9.dll, rename it into
// something else like "d3d9_enb.dll" (note that even if this is commented it actually works)

// external_d3d9_wrapper = none
// external_dxgi_wrapper = none

Stanley Pain fucked around with this message at 16:59 on Jul 27, 2014

Evil Fluffy
Jul 13, 2009

Scholars are some of the most pompous and pedantic people I've ever had the joy of meeting.

Well that's terrifying.

Zero The Hero
Jan 7, 2009

CJacobs posted:

Also, I mentioned earlier that this is my first real MMO. I don't really like huge wide-open co-op games but I have gotten sucked into the co-operative spirit a little bit with this one.

There was a point where some random other player and I were on the same quest chain and playing at about the same speed, so there became like some kind of silent co-op between us as we ran back and forth doing stuff for a while. Then he left to do other quests without a word between us. It was really cool actually, I can definitely see the merits of it now.

Sometimes non-communication is essential. Once when playing WoW, I was blazed out of my mind, and accepted a random party invite from a guy who could tell we were on the same quest. I joined, he asked me if I was on the same questline, and I said yes. After what seemed like several hours, he asked me another question. I spent several minutes re-reading his question, trying to understand it, but eventually gave up and just responded with, "i am high". He must have understood me, because he didn't say anything for the remainder of the party, and left soon after. On that note, I very much like how you can aid each other in FF14 and share kills without being in a party.

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Aqua_D
Feb 12, 2011

Sometimes, a man just needs to get his Rock off.
Any idea what the maintenance claiming to adjust Elite Marks is going to alter?

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