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I'm confident in your ability to get a jeep airborne but I'm not sure how you will keep it up there with just a little Subaru engine and some fancy prop action. This isn't going to be a "As god as my witness I thought  I'm looking forward to seeing how you build a plane. Your normal antics are pretty great but controlled flight is on a whole other level of cool.
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Jul 29, 2014 20:57
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Galler posted:I'm confident in your ability to get a jeep airborne but I'm not sure how you will keep it up there with just a little Subaru engine and some fancy prop action. kiiiit fooooox https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_JHkW2xtPuY
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Jul 29, 2014 22:30
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http://www.nlclassifieds.com/Automotive-Trucks-Other-1956-Army-Dump-Truck-Carbonear-Newfoundland-NLCId1567050 This came up for sale. I shouldn't want it but I do. It'd be a like a Ken's Halfway House/Babbys First Dump Truck combo-thread.
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Jul 30, 2014 02:06
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Kastein, I have an awesome old textbook somewhere called like "Airframe and Powerplant Mechanics" that I could lend to you if it sounds useful. Edit: I think it's this thing - The Airframe Handbook http://www.faa.gov/regulations_policies/advisory_circulars/index.cfm/go/document.information/documentID/23018 There's also a powerplant handbook - http://www.faa.gov/regulations_policies/advisory_circulars/index.cfm/go/document.information/documentID/22913 And a general handbook - http://www.faa.gov/regulations_policies/advisory_circulars/index.cfm/go/document.information/documentID/74451 Opensourcepirate fucked around with this message at 08:40 on Jul 30, 2014 |
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Jul 30, 2014 08:05
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I started reading into the install manual for Aussie lockers and it was all anal about "side gear thrust washers". I didn't know what those were, and thought about asking in here but I thought "No, I won't hassle Kastein for this - I'll figure it out myself like a big boy! Several minutes of googling later, and I was reading the only informative link I found - an archived post on NAXJA by user "kastein" 
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Jul 30, 2014 17:33
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hahaha, yeah that happens  Hell, I had to take the name of the transfer case in my 5 ton out of the specs list in my signature over there... because it was making GBS threads up my goddamn google results and I couldn't find a manual for the thing. Still can't, either.  The thrust washers are those little thin washer-like bits (they're actually bearings of a sort) that go between the back of the side+spider gears and the ring gear/differential carrier.
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Jul 30, 2014 18:07
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:I started reading into the install manual for Aussie lockers and it was all anal about "side gear thrust washers". I didn't know what those were, and thought about asking in here but I thought "No, I won't hassle Kastein for this - I'll figure it out myself like a big boy! I'm pretty sure I have a pair of brand new thrust washers for a dana 30 if you need them. Might take me a couple of days to find where I left them though. Let me know if you want me to ship them out.
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Jul 30, 2014 18:10
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Astonishing Wang posted:I'm pretty sure I have a pair of brand new thrust washers for a dana 30 if you need them. Might take me a couple of days to find where I left them though. Let me know if you want me to ship them out. Just noticed this and thanks - they'd be going in a 8.25 and I'm assuming that's different.
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Aug 1, 2014 00:36
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Just hit the junkyard and got everything I needed for the subaru engine project (except for the timing cover, and its in good enough shape for now), a few jeep bits for me and some friends, and also two EGT sensors... also known as EGR temp sensors off 96/97 3.0L nissan maximas. Not sure what curve they are but probably just K type thermocouples, really. Those are for the jet engine project  $20 for all of it. This is why not being a dick to the yard employees works out well.
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Aug 2, 2014 20:05
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Welp I no longer only own jeeps. I have been very fed up with this shitbox cherokee for quite some time. In fact, ever since it broke the first bellhousing. The replacement vehicle came with a 5 speed and AWD and has already been pictured in this thread. Stock DDs are boring so this time I went with a weirdo nonstock engine instead of swapping the trans a million miles from home. So today I drove a red crapcan to NY with a motor stuffed in the back, jammed the motor in its recipient chassis, threw my tools in the back and drove it home. The clutch hydraulics failed halfway home but loving about with it and applying a colorful array of 4 letter words got it working again. I guess I will have to build a different ej251/ej22 hybrid when I start working on an airplane 'cause this one's taken   Pictured is why my arms are sore. Goddamn wheelbarrow tipped over so I got pissed off, picked it up and jammed it in the back of the jeep. Back is fine, but my arms are going to be unhappy tomorrow for sure.
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Aug 4, 2014 05:41
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It is the red Forester?
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Aug 4, 2014 07:32
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Wait, did you abandon the toilet in NY? Viking funeral?
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Aug 4, 2014 13:59
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Abandoned in NY? Never!
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Aug 4, 2014 14:09
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Wait, did you abandon the toilet in NY? Viking funeral? Until I find a way to retrieve it, yes. This is likely to involve me bribing someone with a significant amount of beer/gas money to drive me out there, because I can do some things, but driving two cars at once isn't among them 
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Aug 4, 2014 15:41
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kastein posted:Until I find a way to retrieve it, yes. Where in N.Y.?
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Aug 4, 2014 15:49
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Ballston area. Maybe half an hour north of Albany. Oh, I completely forgot somehow. OSP, that book might be useful to me, but it'll be a loooooooooooooong time before I get as far as airframe stuff. Este, yeah, dragged a Subaru engine to NY, stuck it in a Subaru and drove it home.
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Aug 4, 2014 15:58
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It was an adventure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pDDCjYjqIAs It got better though. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GUQPEhwIdTo Sort of.
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Aug 4, 2014 16:09
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goddamnit, one tire is going flat. I'm betting the rest aren't far behind. Was hoping they would last till snow tire season... Anyone in the area have a set of 2000 forester compatible wheels for $cheap? Don't care what they look like if they are circular and hold air.
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Aug 4, 2014 19:04
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I got confused for a moment there and thought you put the Scooby motor in the red one.
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Aug 4, 2014 21:51
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kastein posted:Until I find a way to retrieve it, yes. This is what you have the 5 ton for....
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Aug 4, 2014 23:13
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good god this thing makes a ratty 267k mile jeep 4.0L sound like a finely built piece of precision german machinery https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xzj8U1tNN1c
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Aug 5, 2014 00:31
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Is that the sound of too many moths, or not enough?
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Aug 5, 2014 01:03
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Not enough I think, because I just drained the oil out to check for metal and found none. No moths either. I left the fill cap open so a few can fly in before I drive home though. No metal in the pan, haven't looked in the filter media yet. Checking that next... I wouldn't bother checking but the instant redline before the engine had a chance to build pressure because the throttle cables were hosed up kinda spooked me. Bouncing a new-to-me engine off the rev limiter before it has any oil pressure is not my favorite thing to do. e: ahhaahahahaha, no joke, I just found two little baby moths (like 1/4" long) in the funnel filter. I hope the motor does as well without them as it did with them. lovely picture because lovely phone 
kastein fucked around with this message at 01:16 on Aug 5, 2014 |
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Aug 5, 2014 01:06
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FWIF my EJ25 has sounded like that for years.
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Aug 5, 2014 01:14
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While it's not the most healthy subaru sounding engine, it's not that terrible.
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Aug 5, 2014 01:15
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That sounds like a normal (happy) N/A Subaru to me... Ticking injectors, noisy headers, maybe some piston slap. Subaru Rod knock has a sharp clear sound. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CFoOgdMqUoQ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxrwPEzZg4Y I've been standing next to a couple Subaru's that have kicked the bucket at AutoX and TimeAttack.
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Aug 5, 2014 01:18
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Yeah I kept telling him it was going to sound like a barrel of assholes on first start up and that it was fine. The only thing that matters is being rev'd warm and this motor passes. It sounded great when I got the first run snapchat. I am proud of our moth and booze fueled engine build.
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Aug 5, 2014 01:25
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GrantC posted:That sounds like a normal (happy) N/A Subaru to me... Ticking injectors, noisy headers, maybe some piston slap. Wow, it's very kind of Subaru to make an engine which so clearly telegraphs when its knocking instead of making you guess at it.
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Aug 5, 2014 02:02
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Since this is the new Subaru Knock thread, here is my contribution from my WRX (before rebuild) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yW76x4w_fkk
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Aug 5, 2014 02:05
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For reference this is just piston slap on my own EJ25, it goes away after the engine warms up a bit. This video was taken 20k miles ago and it still runs fine, sound hasn't changed a bit. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m0jzGom0K_E It's a very...agricultural engine. Hugh G. Rectum fucked around with this message at 03:33 on Aug 5, 2014 |
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Aug 5, 2014 03:31
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Piston slap on my old EJ22 would only shut up in certain circumstances and only once I started running 5W40 Rotella. The current EJ25 is such a cavalcade of broken cats, leaky exhaust gaskets, loose mounts and (probably) rod knock that it would be impossible to tell the engine's health from sound alone.
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Aug 5, 2014 05:16
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kastein posted:Ballston area. Maybe half an hour north of Albany. Sorry, that's not on my (and my wife's) way to a wedding in two weeks. Then again, I'm not sure if letting you meet my wife is a good thing or not.
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Aug 5, 2014 11:33
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You may be surprised to hear this but I am fully capable of not swearing a lot Hoping to have the crapcan back in the corner of the yard by weekend, but we'll see. The engine was fully warmed up when I took that video. It still sounds like poo poo but as long as it isn't about to puke rods I don't care. I may even have motivation to actually change the clutch stuff out tonight. Bought it and stuck it in the back seat last night, figured worst case, I can limp it to a parking lot and change it out there in more comfort than in my dirt driveway at home.
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Aug 5, 2014 16:27
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Alright, tire issue turned out to be a leaking valve, I hosed with it last night and it hasn't leaked since. Other stuff it needs/I really want: real oil pressure gauge. Sorry, dumbass lights don't do it for me. Voltage gauge too. Not sure where these will go, but I hate ghetto gauge installs and prefer to make things look as OEM as possible when it comes to instruments so no worries here. It needs an exhaust sooner rather than later. I'm going to weld in some flex joints in a few spots (on the long leg of the header and somewhere between the cat and the long pipe under the body) because not having any is retarded. Probably put a new O2 sensor in at the same time since it's probably rusted in place. This is all going to wait until the old one falls off. Cam seals are leaking a bit because I was a dumb lazy rear end in a top hat and didn't put them in before timing the engine even though I had new ones sitting there. Oh well, now I have motivation to replace the timing covers that broke when I dropped the engine, too, since the cam sprockets have to come off. Rust repair in a variety of places. Almost all are still hidden under plastic cladding so welding in 16ga sheetmetal and POR15ing the poo poo out of things is the name of the game. A few body panels (hood, passenger doors, driver fender, etc) are dinged, peeling, and/or rusting. These will be replaced on an as-available basis with factory paint matched ones from the local junkyards. Snow tires this winter. Winterforces are cheap and it'll probably be in dire need of tires by October/November or so. Trailer hitch, because without an XJ to treat like a pickup truck (the MJs are all either hosed or in long term project status), I need something to haul greasy filthy poo poo around. Might just make my own hitch now that I have plasma cutter access at work and a badass MIG. New carpet, it's worn through in one spot and filthy. Can I remove the retarded foot rest thing? It keeps getting in my way when I try to hit the clutch, I have big feet. De-sticker/de-badge the tailgate. The previous previous owner had... questionable taste. This will involve brakleen, so detailing nerds should probably avert their eyes. Bracket for the AC compressor, since the one that's currently in there holds the alternator but not the compressor, which is just tied in place so it doesn't get friendly with the radiator. Also an AC recharge. New front brakes. They're hosed. Completely utterly hosed. Might need balljoints and/or front wheel bearings. Not sure yet. And before anyone asks, no, this is not the new project and no, this is not replacing the jeeps, other than the toilet jeep because gently caress that thing. This thing's job is to pass inspection (thus the variety of mechanical repairs), look reasonably nice (thus the new body panels), not strand me (that's what the mechanical repairs and extra gauges are for), and get 24+ mpg for my 140 mile commute. I find driving it intensely boring, I can't hear the engine, can't feel the road, doesn't accelerate (because LOL low compression EJ22/EJ251 hybrid build*), and right now, doesn't corner or brake because the brakes are marginal and I don't trust the tires yet. * I wouldn't be against a turbo and tune eventually however because I do still plan on using this exact engine build to power an airplane eventually, and a turbo would be pretty nice for that, so I can prototype and power test it on the ground where I won't loving DIE if it fails. Hell, if this car bores me too much or breaks too many expensive things I'll probably rip this very motor back out of it and start building an airplane around it. BEHOLD THE REPLACEMENT RED TURDMOBILE 
kastein fucked around with this message at 00:03 on Aug 6, 2014 |
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Aug 6, 2014 00:00
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Oil pressure gauge, there is a galley plug on the passenger side rear of the block you can undo with a hex key, then you can put in a plug and sensor, or I recommend the prosport remote install kit: http://prosportgauges.com/remote-oil-pressure-sender-installation-kit.aspx Match that with whatever gauge/sender you want. Voltage gauge, just get whatever you want. As for where to put the gauges, if you get a forester nav pack thing, you just delete the nav thing and use the cover so you have a flat face opening for gauges instead of a weed dash pocket or whatever.  I have the plastic thing and the nav pack... Exhaust, do whatever you want. O2 the rear just reports cat efficiency, the front one does the actual tuning. People may disagree with me but gently caress them. Also you will probably break the bungs off if they're rusted in good. Cam seals you already know what must be done. The rest is bolt on poo poo. Trailer hitch, I'd suggest get an OEM one and put a 1/2 inch receiver on it instead of DIY. Carpet + dead pedal, junkyard carpet is fine. Dead pedal you can remove, but you may have to hammer the body back a bit to make more room. I can't remember honestly. De-badging is a knife and de-stickering I recommend the 3m eraser wheel + goo gone. Skidplate isn't a bad idea, I find I get an extra MPG with one on the front of the cars. Pull the roof cross bars as well.
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Aug 6, 2014 01:42
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Oil pressure - I was just gonna tee the sensor port at the front while I have the alternator and AC compressor off again to swap that bracket, but that works too and is probably easier, so thanks. Voltage - yeah, I haven't decided where I'm going to tap in, probably either at the battery positive or at the ECU, haven't decided whether I care more about my battery charge monitoring or how healthy power supply to the ECU is. It's probably not much of a difference either way, but I'm an EE, so full sperg mode on this one. Where to put the gauges - that'd be awesome. I don't think the nav display would do much for me anyways, but the shell sure makes for a clean install! I'm split on the O2s. The upstream definitely handles AFR, that's what it is for. On some vehicles, the downstream average value is used to set the target voltage for the upstream, this is basically to take care of the unburned fuel and oxygen in the exhaust stream from the fact that cylinder combustion isn't 100%, so that you don't trim too rich all the time just trying to burn that last bit of oxygen that will never burn till it hits the cat. Many Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep vehicles do this. Since I don't know if MY2000 Foresters do this, and my sensor is likely rust-welded securely in place, this is likely a moot point regardless. Cam seals, I know they need replacing but not how. Do I have to pull the cam carriers? I might shoot myself if I do. Or do they just come out with a sheetrock screw and a puller and then get new ones pushed in? You're probably right about the hitch, I'm going to see if I can find one, if I can't, I'll make one. I don't mind using a hammer on this thing at all - hopefully just pulling the dead pedal will help enough. Debadging: I just peel them off, scrape the remaining adhesive off with my fingernails, then use acetone based brakleen to remove the gum. Works every time, doesn't hurt the paint or CC, at least on Jeeps. I do need to make a skidplate, and I had no idea they actually improve fuel economy.
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Aug 6, 2014 01:52
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  That's for a GD chassis impreza. Yours should be pretty loving close, you'll have to shim down the rear section of it because NA headers hang down more. Also, put the 5 bolts in, put antiseize on the heads, and press the skid plate against them to get your hole template.
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Aug 6, 2014 01:56
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Ken, Cool about maybe wanting the book eventually. I don't know if you noticed, but all of the links I posted have PDF versions of the books. Not nearly as nice as a paper copy, but it's cool of the FAA to post them.
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Aug 6, 2014 07:26
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So I think I mentioned that a coworker bought a Jeep recently. It's a... early to mid 90s? I forget exactly how old, I'm sure Ken can figure it out. It's old enough that it's not OBD2 (judging by the inspection sticker). I want to say 94 or 95.  Has some funky striping going on out back.  Has WAY too many miles and  Also has an odd "TURN OFF HEADLIGHTS WHEN EXITING" sticker on the dash - not a homemade one, looks like a mass produced sticker. It's a barebones jeep with only AM/FM radio, I don't think it even has a/c. It'd been parked in his neighbor's driveway for several years, he bought it from him for $1200. He mentioned something about it possibly being a former forestry service jeep, but it's not 4x4. I'd guess it's at least a former government vehicle though. e: absolutely zero rust anywhere on it. I think the built in rust prevention system is broken too. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:00 on Aug 6, 2014 |
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Aug 6, 2014 08:56
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Kinda looks like an ex-railroad vehicle.
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