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So I'm about to get my first DSLR probably and am looking at a Canon SL1 or the T5i. Anyone here with experience with both of these? I don't mind the larger body of the T5i and it's only a $100 difference so I'm interested to see if the features are worth it or if I should get the SL1.
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Aug 8, 2014 15:56
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I shot on a t3i for a while and really liked the flip out screen. So I'd lean towards the t5i just for that. This might help you in your comparison? http://snapsort.com/compare/Canon-Rebel-SL1-vs-Canon-Rebel-T5i
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Aug 8, 2014 15:58
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If you want to save a bit of money, you can try and find a T4i and lose the stunning feature list of absolutely nothing. The main difference between the SL1 and the T4i/T5i is just the size and the flippy screen, so pick whichever feels better.
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Aug 8, 2014 16:35
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Elliotw2 posted:If you want to save a bit of money, you can try and find a T4i and lose the stunning feature list of absolutely nothing. The main difference between the SL1 and the T4i/T5i is just the size and the flippy screen, so pick whichever feels better. Unless I'm mistaken, the SL1 only has one cross-type and the T4i/T5i have 9 which would lead to better focus speed/accuracy on the non-center points. I would recommend going into the store and holding both in your hands as the size difference can be very important. Edit: Here's a list from TDP for SL1 vs. T5i: 9 AF points with 1 cross-type vs. 9 cross-type Hybrid CMOS AF II covering approx. 80 x 80 percent vs. Hybrid CMOS AF covering approx. 38 x 26 percent 4fps continuous shooting speed vs. 5fps Silent Single & Silent Continuous shooting modes available vs. No Basic Zone Modes: 13 vs. 10 Built-in flash Guide No of 9.4 vs. 13 Built-in flash coverage down to 18mm vs. 17mm Integrated Speedlite Transmitter: No vs. Yes Built-in mic is mono vs. stereo Miniature effect movie and Extra Effect Shot included in SL1 SL1 LCD is not Vari-Angle No SL1 battery grip available Battery life of approx. 480 vs. 550 In-camera JPG cropping vs. no T5i has a dedicated "Q" (and print) button vs. Set button serving dual roles Did I mention that the SL1 was smaller/lighter? The T5i has a larger grip for better control of camera – making the T5i a better choice if big lenses are on your planned use list theloafingone fucked around with this message at 16:59 on Aug 8, 2014 |
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Aug 8, 2014 16:56
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Thanks everyone for your help so far. I need to go into a store for sure and actually try both of them out. I have larger hands so a t5i might feel way better just based off that alone. I'll try it out and report back 
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Aug 8, 2014 17:15
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theloafingone posted:Unless I'm mistaken, the SL1 only has one cross-type and the T4i/T5i have 9 which would lead to better focus speed/accuracy on the non-center points. I'm pretty sure the T4i/T5i and the SL1 are the same sensor and everything, it's just the SL1 has a smaller body and a thinner, slower shutter/mirror.
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Aug 8, 2014 17:27
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Elliotw2 posted:I'm pretty sure the T4i/T5i and the SL1 are the same sensor and everything, it's just the SL1 has a smaller body and a thinner, slower shutter/mirror. The cross vs. non-cross focus point difference is definitely real.
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Aug 8, 2014 17:37
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Elliotw2 posted:I'm pretty sure the T4i/T5i and the SL1 are the same sensor and everything, it's just the SL1 has a smaller body and a thinner, slower shutter/mirror. After I posted in this thread I found a comparison video that said the SL1 only has one focus point vs 9 in the t5i. Didn't know what that was at first but looks like it's better for taking off-center pictures. Also the flippy LED screen and apparently a wireless flash transmitter which I dunno what that's all about. InFlames235 fucked around with this message at 17:42 on Aug 8, 2014 |
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Aug 8, 2014 17:39
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InFlames235 posted:After I posted in this thread I found a comparison video that said the SL1 only has one focus point vs 9 in the t5i. Didn't know what that was at first but looks like it's better for taking off-center pictures. Also the flippy LED screen and apparently a wireless flash transmitter which I dunno what that's all about. For reference, this is the focus point layout for both of the cameras:  On the SL1, only the center point is a cross-type which means that the other 8 non-cross-type focus points only sample either vertically or horizontally rather than both. The T4i/T5i have all 9 focus points as cross-type which helps with the focus speed/accuracy.
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Aug 8, 2014 17:51
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theloafingone posted:For reference, this is the focus point layout for both of the cameras: That's really helpful, seems worth the extra cash. I'll go to best buy this weekend and try both out from a "feel" perspective.
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Aug 8, 2014 19:01
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Does the t5i do much more than the t3i? The t3i was my starter camera and served me well until I wanted to go full frame.
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Aug 8, 2014 19:04
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triplexpac posted:Does the t5i do much more than the t3i? The t3i was my starter camera and served me well until I wanted to go full frame. Touch screen, which personally I think is awesome in live view. Live view/video "cmos" af: Totally useless on T5i, so whatever (Edit: Type 2 on SL1 also totally useless. don't believe any of canon's hype - even on a subject that isn't actually moving towards or away from the camera, it will lose focus and rack in and out. 70D is the only DSLR on the market that actually does video AF in a usable fashion - nothing else even scrapes the level of 'kindof ok') 5 vs 3.7 fps T3i is the 1 cross type like SL1 vs 9 on t5i timrenzi574 fucked around with this message at 19:20 on Aug 8, 2014 |
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Aug 8, 2014 19:18
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The touch screen is the big difference. Combined with the flip around screen, it is great for adjusting settings when the camera is on a tripod in some weird to work with angle. Like pointed up for star trail shots. Or if you are backed up against a wall, or in a corner, or close the the ground. Especially if you have a tripod that holds the camera upside down to get really close to the ground. You can twist the screen around and have access to all the settings by touch. It is also very useful for checking out pictures. You can pinch-zoom and drag the photo around, which is much easier than the old zoom button an D-pad type navigation. InFlames235 posted:Thanks everyone for your help so far. I need to go into a store for sure and actually try both of them out. I have larger hands so a t5i might feel way better just based off that alone. I'll try it out and report back Definitely check out the flip screen on the t5i when you play with the 2. It's not a huge deal if you expect to be looking through the viewfinder nearly 100% of the time. But if you plan on putting it on a tripod, the flip around touch screen is brilliant. Another little perk to the flip screen is that you can turn it around and shut it so that the plastic back is facing outward. It is nice for keeping it protected while traveling. It is also nice if you are using it in a situation where you are going to be getting sweaty or dirty. You won't get the screen all grimy when you put it up to your face or dirt from your shirt or what ever. Swing it open to check out your shots on a nice clean screen, then close it back up to make sure it stays clean. Beowulfs_Ghost fucked around with this message at 19:57 on Aug 8, 2014 |
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Aug 8, 2014 19:47
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Beowulfs_Ghost posted:The touch screen is the big difference. tap to focus and shoot is also freaking awesome, even if it is slow as molasses on not-70D.
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Aug 8, 2014 19:58
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timrenzi574 posted:tap to focus and shoot is also freaking awesome, even if it is slow as molasses on not-70D. I keep turning off the tap-to-shoot, but it randomly turns itself back on. I don't tap to focus as much as I use the tap to zoom to check the focus. But every once in a while I go to tap the screen on where I want to zoom and the shutter goes off. Really annoying when I'm set up for long exposures and I'm left twiddling my thumbs for several seconds seconds. But I have a remote for the shutter, so I'm usually poking the screen with one hand to adjust the settings and have the remote in the other hand for the shutter.
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Aug 8, 2014 20:09
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Beowulfs_Ghost posted:I keep turning off the tap-to-shoot, but it randomly turns itself back on. It has a touch sensitive "on/off" button in the bottom left hand corner, you're probably bumping it by mistake? That is one of the silliest things about the M - when it's on a neckstrap, sleeping, your belly hitting the screen wakes it up, then turns on the touch shutter, then starts taking pictures.
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Aug 8, 2014 20:43
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timrenzi574 posted:It has a touch sensitive "on/off" button in the bottom left hand corner, you're probably bumping it by mistake? That is one of the silliest things about the M - when it's on a neckstrap, sleeping, your belly hitting the screen wakes it up, then turns on the touch shutter, then starts taking pictures. Probably. It is in that far corner of the screen that is right on the edge of the camera. I even went into the menu system and disabled touch-shutter there, but it can just be reactivated from the liveview screen. Disabling it in the menu should make that touch button go away or be replaced by something else.
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Aug 8, 2014 22:58
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Beowulfs_Ghost posted:Probably. It is in that far corner of the screen that is right on the edge of the camera. I even went into the menu system and disabled touch-shutter there, but it can just be reactivated from the liveview screen. Disabling it in the menu should make that touch button go away or be replaced by something else. Yeah, agreed. If you turn it off from the menu it should disable the button there. It's the one big flaw in what is otherwise a really really good touch interface.
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Aug 8, 2014 23:18
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I'm thinking about picking up a DSLR for an upcoming vacation (coming from an old P&S SD710IS), and have been looking at getting an older used camera vs a new one. Would it be better to get something like a used Nikon D50 or Canon T1i for around 150-250 instead of a new D3300 or T3i? (along with the standard kit lens)
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Aug 26, 2014 16:39
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I would say the T1i or the newer D3300 or T3i would be the better choices out of what you've listed. The D50 is a fine camera, but it's also nearing 10 years old and it will show.
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Aug 26, 2014 16:47
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After coming back from a camping trip, I'm intrigued as to how people take really good photos when something like a campfire is the only source of light. I'm shooting on a fast lens (35mm 1.8) but an old body (D50) with a pretty low ISO. I also think newer bodies might autofocus in the dark a lot better than mine can? I shoot fully manual, aperture fully open and with a shutter speed of around 50 to not cause blur but while the shots look better on the computer than they did on the (pretty awful and dated) LCD screen on the camera, they're not great. Is it simply a case of a newer body with it's better AF and ISO ratings would make for far better shots in these situations, a proper flash that's used correctly so it doesn't just illuminate everything in sight, insanely expensive glass or a combination of these factors that'd make for good photographs in this kind of situation? It's more curiosity than anything as I'm unlikely to go out in these conditions again this year, but I'm enjoying taking my camera out now I have my new lens and it's nice to know how I could improve my photos. (Sorry I don't really have any examples at the moment, I'm gonna mess about in Lightroom and see what I can do with the one or two pics I kept though).
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Aug 26, 2014 16:51
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Yep. Newer cameras are better at autofocus and are less noisy at high ISOs. I'm just using a D3200 but with a 1.4 or 1.8 lens I can get usable (not what I'd call great) pictures in that sort of lighting conditions.
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Aug 26, 2014 16:59
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Yeah, used entry level DSLRs from even a couple years back tend to go for peanuts and have quite competent sensors.
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Aug 26, 2014 18:29
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EL BROMANCE posted:...a proper flash that's used correctly so it doesn't just illuminate everything in sight... If you are using the built-in flash, try going into the menus and setting the flash exposure compensation down a stop.
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Aug 26, 2014 18:56
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Good to know my suspicions were right at least! I'll probably consider a new body next year, my friend has a 3100 so I might have a play about with that. Beowulfs_Ghost posted:If you are using the built-in flash, try going into the menus and setting the flash exposure compensation down a stop. Ha, one of the first things I learnt because I used to do gig photos and I felt bad at blasting them with light at short range. Didn't realise until recently I could do it on the fly with 2 buttons and a command dial twist, but I still don't really like the onboard one.
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Aug 26, 2014 23:32
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Do a search for "diy popup flash diffuser" and you can rig up something that will make the light a lot less harsh.
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Aug 26, 2014 23:35
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Yeah I saw the trick using the business card before, but that one seemed to rely on a white ceiling. Will definitely see what other tricks are possible and have a practise! Damnit the 5200/5300 is looking so tempting if I sell a lung before my next vacation...
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Aug 26, 2014 23:52
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Tape a loop of toilet paper around it, it's fun!
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Aug 27, 2014 17:11
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Another common one is shoving a ping-pong ball on the flash.
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Aug 27, 2014 18:34
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EL BROMANCE posted:Yeah I saw the trick using the business card before, but that one seemed to rely on a white ceiling. Will definitely see what other tricks are possible and have a practise! for a lung you better be getting at least a D800
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Aug 27, 2014 19:14
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You guys taping poo poo to your flash heads are loving fire hazard.
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Aug 27, 2014 19:15
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I use velcro to keep my modifiers on my flash guns, nbd. Not worried about a fire. ITs an SB700 not a 1600watt norman.
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Aug 27, 2014 20:22
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evil_bunnY posted:You guys taping poo poo to your flash heads are loving fire hazard. A nice big 500 or 600 series external flash (aka "speedlight" aka "flashgun") can burn stuff pretty nicely, but a pop-up on a DSLR has a guide number of like 13, no? Do they typically get hot enough to light paper on fire? I'm not talking singe, or leave a brown quasi-burn-mark on the business card or whatever, I mean flames.
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Aug 27, 2014 21:28
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I am trying to find a decent used DSLR on ebay for under $300. Any suggestions for good models? So far I have seen the Canon T1i and T2i as well as the Nikon D3100 for decent prices. I will mostly use it for either outdoor photography or taking close up macro shots of computer equipment.
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Aug 27, 2014 22:06
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Stealthgerbil posted:I am trying to find a decent used DSLR on ebay for under $300. Any suggestions for good models? So far I have seen the Canon T1i and T2i as well as the Nikon D3100 for decent prices. I will mostly use it for either outdoor photography or taking close up macro shots of computer equipment. You can get a refurbished T3i for slightly more (335$) with lens direct from Canon. Will get you a 1yr warranty that way too
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Aug 27, 2014 22:23
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That seems like a pretty awesome deal. I hope it lasts a little bit.
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Aug 27, 2014 22:39
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ExecuDork posted:A nice big 500 or 600 series external flash (aka "speedlight" aka "flashgun") can burn stuff pretty nicely, but a pop-up on a DSLR has a guide number of like 13, no? Do they typically get hot enough to light paper on fire? I'm not talking singe, or leave a brown quasi-burn-mark on the business card or whatever, I mean flames. Absolutely not. It's perfectly fine on popup flashes. I mean hell, one time I was trying to use my SB800 to light a tiny piece of flashpaper that was literally resting directly on the flash head, and I ended up having to sharpie a black dot on it before it'd work. And that's paper that is specifically intended to burn. Yes, the bigger speedlights do generate a decent amount of heat, just for a very, very short period of time. Having said that, having dark red gel pressed directly onto your flash head is still a stupid idea.
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Aug 27, 2014 23:01
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SoundMonkey posted:Absolutely not. It's perfectly fine on popup flashes. I mean hell, one time I was trying to use my SB800 to light a tiny piece of flashpaper that was literally resting directly on the flash head, and I ended up having to sharpie a black dot on it before it'd work. And that's paper that is specifically intended to burn. Yes, the bigger speedlights do generate a decent amount of heat, just for a very, very short period of time. You're not going to start an actual fire with anything short of studio lights or a busted magnesium flashbulb. I wish my D7000 had M-sync, I have so many flashbulbs left from my Speed Graphic days. Alternately, I should set up the DSLR for a longish exposure (like, f/22 at night and whatever time is good for the sky) and manually burn a flashbulb for a portrait in the foreground, that looks creepy as hell. I might do that later tonight. Jimlad posted:So uhm... scrub dicktographer question time: how does everyone set their exposures? Jam it at whatever exposure comp feels right and fix anything bad in post? Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 03:22 on Aug 28, 2014 |
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Aug 28, 2014 03:08
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Won a cheap t2i off of ebay. It was $290 for the camera, a 18-55m EF-S IS lens, a 16gb memory card, and three batteries. THe t3i refurb was out of stock on the site and I saw this deal. From the pictures, the camera looks great. Hopefully it wont have like 90k actuations on it though 
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Aug 29, 2014 19:19
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I might be looking in the near future for an dSLR with this requirements: Used Good ISO performance (for shooting in low light situations, such as clubs, etc) APS-c Decent viewfinder Price range around 800-1000USD for the body I don't care about video, buffer or super fast AF (honestly i'm used with manual all the time, so it's still going to be faster overall) I'm also not really invested in any digital system (I only have legacy glass, yashica and adapted medium and large format lenses). I would like to use those from time to time, but it's not a priority. It's my understanding that I should be looking at nikon, as canon stalled in high iso performance right? Being rugged is a bonus as I tend to not be the most careful person with my gear. Small size is also a bonus. I'm thinking about maybe a slightly used D7100. I can find D7000 for good prices also. Is there much difference between them? Would I maybe be better served by something older and pro-ish maybe?
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Sep 14, 2014 15:24
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