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If it's that old, there's a good chance the thermal compound between the heatsink and the CPU isn't doing its job so well anymore. If it really is getting that hot, you need to do something about it one way or the other; I'd stress-test with something like Prime95 to see what it does there.
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Aug 7, 2014 22:30
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It sounds like you have some serious non-iRacing issues. I second running Prime95, watching your temperatures, and going from there. 100C is not normal!
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Aug 7, 2014 23:45
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Yeah, so I'm a bit embarrassed that I posted before checking the fan on the processor which was in fact full of probably 6 years of dust..... I only had a few minutes last night to check it out after clearing that off but it looks to have done the job. So, sorry for wasting people's time but thanks for your help anyway!
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Aug 8, 2014 08:02
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So I'm using a Fanatec CSR and when I use certain cars, like the skip barber F2000, Iracing is forcing me to use the paddle shifts. Is it possible to change the controls so I can use the H-pattern shifter instead?
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Aug 9, 2014 21:12
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If it has sequential shifters in real life you have to use sequential.
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Aug 9, 2014 21:29
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tater_salad posted:If it has sequential shifters in real life you have to use sequential. You really can't just change the controls? oook then. In that case, how can I tell which cars have a stick and which cars have paddleshits? (I noticed that typo then I decided to keep it that way.)
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Aug 9, 2014 21:48
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When you load up the car it will say "This car uses your Sequential/H-Patter shifter." You don't have to use the paddles, you can use any sequential shifter.
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Aug 9, 2014 21:54
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I don't have a fantec, Is there a way in the config software you can make the shifter act like a sequential shifter instead of h IE 1&4 act as shift up, and 2&3 act as down. Only issue would be that if you were in 3rd would you need to neutral it then shift into first. so it would be 2 actions instead of one. looks like you can get a sequential shifter, but bad news is that it is in a bundle with an H pattern http://eu.fanatec.com/Shifters/CSR%20Shifter%20Set%20EU
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Aug 10, 2014 00:28
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Is there any benefit (in terms of safety/iRating etc) to not running with driver aids? I've been running with the racing line indicator and auto-clutch but I'm not sure I need them any more, would anything else change if I switched them off?
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Aug 10, 2014 14:28
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Helicon One posted:Is there any benefit (in terms of safety/iRating etc) to not running with driver aids? I've been running with the racing line indicator and auto-clutch but I'm not sure I need them any more, would anything else change if I switched them off? In most sims, auto-clutch shifts more slowly than when using a clutch. By turning that off, you will shave a tiny amount of time from every single shift, saving you a noticeable among each lap. Also, it feels way more awesome to race with no assists.
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Aug 10, 2014 14:52
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Helicon One posted:Is there any benefit (in terms of safety/iRating etc) to not running with driver aids? I've been running with the racing line indicator and auto-clutch but I'm not sure I need them any more, would anything else change if I switched them off? The racing line is often wrong as well, at least in terms of getting the fastest lap times. Braking too early, not using all of the curb, etc.
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Aug 10, 2014 15:35
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The driving aids will slow you down. Turn off everything in the settings menu. On the other hand, some cars (like the Z4) have traction control. This can be helpful if they've modeled it correctly.
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Aug 10, 2014 15:56
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If a car uses paddle shifts then do you still need to use the clutch when shifting? Seems like the gearshifts work ok when I try it without the pedal but I don't know if I'm risking mechanical failure that way.
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Aug 10, 2014 16:01
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You don't have to use the clutch to shift anything in iRacing which is kind of lame. Some cars use paddles, some use a sequential shift lever. You'll mostly have to just look around the cockpit and see what the car you're driving uses and see if it has three pedals. There was a website that said what each car uses but I forget.
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Aug 10, 2014 16:07
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Since I'm weak, I just re-upped after not playing for a bit over two years. Anything "new" I should know about, or do I just need to get stuck in and re-learn my cars?
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Aug 10, 2014 19:06
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tater_salad posted:I don't have a fantec, I remember a guy rigging his h shifter with elastic bands that would pull the stick into neutral when he released it, so he could have 3rd as downshift and 4th as upshift so he has a ghetto sequential shifter. You should be able to use the wizard to set a specific gear to upshift or downshift, but not multiple gears.
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Aug 11, 2014 17:18
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So since I am an idiot. I bought the Chevrolet Silverado just to see what it is like. You guys were right about driving this thing with a 360 controller. It is really, really hard. But god drat it is cool. Makes the street stock look like a pile of poo poo. I really wish I could race with it but the way I am driving with it I might as well just disqualify myself before I even get on grid.
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Aug 11, 2014 18:25
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Torabi posted:So since I am an idiot. I bought the Chevrolet Silverado just to see what it is like. You guys were right about driving this thing with a 360 controller. It is really, really hard. But god drat it is cool. Makes the street stock look like a pile of poo poo. I really wish I could race with it but the way I am driving with it I might as well just disqualify myself before I even get on grid. In my experience, the truck is difficult even with a wheel. 
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Aug 11, 2014 18:40
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For anyone asking about shifting/clutch/aids, read this thread if you haven't already. When it comes to shifting and aids, it really depends on what you're driving. I never use H-Pattern shifting because I use my G27 paddles for everything. Helicon One posted:If a car uses paddle shifts then do you still need to use the clutch when shifting? What car? I drive the DW-12 and it's 100% shift-without-lift paddle shifting so there's no reason to ever enable shifting aids. On the rare chance I race any stock cars, I usually just enable auto-clutch since the only time I have to shift is coming out of the pits/restart and shifting is 
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Aug 11, 2014 19:38
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The only car I know of off the top of my head that requires clutching for upshifts is the Spec Racer Ford. The only other cars with synchroed transmissions are the Mustang, Solstice, MX-5, and Street Stock. I don't know if they all require clutch on upshifts in the sim. List of transmission types in iRacing I wouldn't use auto-clutch on stock cars since you only need the clutch to get going from a stop, and the anti-stall will take care of that with or without auto-clutch.
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Aug 11, 2014 20:08
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So I made it to D-Class in Oval, but unexpectedly. When I hit R-3.0 it automatically bumped me to D-2.5 (Should have been D-2.1 before the bump). I thought that it didn't auto-upgrade you until R-4.0. What gives? It sort of sucks because now I cannot race Advanced Legends and have it count towards my MPR, which was my plan. I know I still gain SR and irating, but I really don't want to do Late Model or SK Modified. I guess I'm stuck with it. I'll probably race Advanced Legends for fun and SR padding. Question, though: Even though I'm likely not going to buy any new cars or tracks for a bit, which is a better series, Late Model or SK Modified. They look similar to me on paper, though SK Modified runs on somewhat shorter tracks. The only clue I have on this is that the tracks that Late Model races on are either base tracks that I already have or tracks that are run in subsequent oval series. What's the main difference past that?
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Aug 12, 2014 00:45
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MPR only matters for advancing licenses - if you're racing for participation credit that's different.
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Aug 12, 2014 00:47
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You can keep racing in advanced legends. Just race until you hit D4.0. When do you that, you can participate in C class races and use that to make your MPR.
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Aug 12, 2014 00:50
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Ah, okay that makes a little more sense. Thanks guys. I get why this is (sort of) but god drat if the class badge and safety rating system aren't extremely convoluted. When I think about it for a half second I realize that I don't care that much as I want to race Advanced Legends for fun and start working up my road badge. I bought the Skippy already, so at least I'll have a car to race in once I plow through (literally ) Rookie Road.Speaking of Advanced Legends: I have been practicing with it a bit and holy poo poo, the heightened rev limiter makes a huge difference. It has a shitload more power and it's hard to not spin out even while steering mildly if you're standing on the throttle. Kind of makes it even more fun to me.
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Aug 12, 2014 00:55
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Because I'm just that much of a nerd, if I spot for people (especially on longer races) I'll probably start using this: http://members.iracing.com/jforum/posts/list/1826964.page
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Aug 12, 2014 00:57
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Is it possible to start from the pits in a standing start road race? ALSO: Thank you ManicJason for the post about transmission types.
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Aug 12, 2014 02:13
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Marauder Stig posted:Is it possible to start from the pits in a standing start road race?
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Aug 12, 2014 02:25
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Bentai posted:Yes it is. How do I start from the pits?
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Aug 12, 2014 02:58
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Don't grid (the big green button when it's time to line up before the race). The green button will then say "Start from Pits". Click it. You'll have to wait several seconds after the race begins to leave your pit box.
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Aug 12, 2014 03:01
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I put some latest build news and a FAQ in the second post of the thread. Let me know if I missed a question that gets asked all the time.
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Aug 12, 2014 05:49
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Are new updates regularly scheduled or do they just pop up as and when there's enough content for iRacing to bundle and release?
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Aug 12, 2014 09:05
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Scheduled updates come once per season, four times per year, usually at the start of week 13. Minor updates happen in between, such as the new build today that fixed the unlimited push-to-pass DW-12 bug and a few other minor issues. It's odd to get more than one or maybe two small updates mid-season. They're not scheduled that I know of other than occurring around the Tuesday 00:00 GMT week switch when they do happen.
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Aug 12, 2014 09:39
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Overwined posted:So I made it to D-Class in Oval, but unexpectedly. When I hit R-3.0 it automatically bumped me to D-2.5 (Should have been D-2.1 before the bump). I thought that it didn't auto-upgrade you until R-4.0. What gives? It sort of sucks because now I cannot race Advanced Legends and have it count towards my MPR, which was my plan. I know I still gain SR and irating, but I really don't want to do Late Model or SK Modified. In terms of full rooms. National Series most active Late Model active SK less active Tour least active The tracks for the SS and SK are basically the same. I feel like the SS is a better transitional series for moving into Nationwide and Cup. The SK though is pretty drat fun, it's a different style of racing since it's open wheel. I own the SS SK and Tour and race in all three.
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Aug 12, 2014 13:57
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I just had my first jerk give me some road rage. After spending 75% of a street stock race at Charlotte behind this guy I finally managed to sneak by him on the left on a straightaway. He didnt like this and cut into me on the turn and we both spun out but recovered. I kept going, he stayed near the pits waiting for me to come around again and pulled out in front of me purposely. I get wheel damage so I have to loop again to get into the pits, as I enter the pits he rams me from behind, spinning me out. He then chases me down after the checkered flag just to get one more pointless contact penalty. Dick.
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Aug 12, 2014 14:01
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When this happens save the replay cut it and then protest. One incident can be said to be racing but if they hunt you down 2 more times it's protest time.
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Aug 12, 2014 14:29
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I really hope you saved the replay, and if you didn't ask other people that were in the race. All that stuff is protestable, but contact after the checkered is super bad.
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Aug 12, 2014 14:38
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Yeah, I did save a replay and filed a protest as soon as I could. Got this email this morning:quote:Good Day Xxxx Xxxx2 Not sweating it. Its just I have a new account because of the free 3 month deal so I have to crawl my way out of rookie again.
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Aug 12, 2014 14:41
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That's the email you get when they yell at the other person It's just frustrating when you lose a bunch of sr because someone is an rear end hole
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Aug 12, 2014 15:33
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It sucks they don't tell you the result of the protest or even if they agreed with it. I didn't bother with more than one protest because it's pointless if I don't know that I'm not spamming them with stuff they'll laugh at.
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Aug 12, 2014 21:46
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Dudley posted:It sucks they don't tell you the result of the protest or even if they agreed with it. They'll never tell anyone the outcome of protests for privacy, etc but you should always submit if it's serious enough. I'm sure if you're spamming they'll say something to you.
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Aug 12, 2014 21:49
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