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sliderule posted:I'm getting clock noise induced onto my ground from my computer. One synth is picking it up quite a bit. It can't hurt. Pick up a clip-on or two from RadioShack and try a few spots. I suspect you'll have more luck with signal lines than power, but play around. eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 16:55 on Jul 27, 2014 |
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Jul 27, 2014 16:45
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Well, I got the second subwoofer, and put it on the left side of the door to my French balcony. After fiddling a bit with the levels, I settled on dialing back the volume on both by about 25% compared to how the single sub was before. Seems to work pretty well, and the bass does seem to be more "room-filling" now, without being louder or more boomy. I still have a noticeable dip around 55hz or thereabouts if I run a frequency sweep, but to eliminate it I think I would have to put at least one of the subs somewhere in the middle of the room. Which obviously isn't happening. I may fiddle around a bit with my crossover frequency and see if I can mitigate it a bit.
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Jul 28, 2014 13:33
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eddiewalker posted:It can't hurt. Pick up a clip-on or two from RadioShack and try a few spots. The Source (nee Radio Shack) didn't have any, nor did any of the electronics and music stores I visited. I did, however, solve the problem by running all signal cables 90 degrees to all power cables!
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Jul 28, 2014 15:22
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sliderule posted:The Source (nee Radio Shack) didn't have any, nor did any of the electronics and music stores I visited. That's a shame. Our stores are still RadioShack and I snagged all of these within the last year:   (That big fat one is super effective on the Fostex)
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Jul 28, 2014 15:34
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KozmoNaut posted:Well, I got the second subwoofer, and put it on the left side of the door to my French balcony. After fiddling a bit with the levels, I settled on dialing back the volume on both by about 25% compared to how the single sub was before. Seems to work pretty well, and the bass does seem to be more "room-filling" now, without being louder or more boomy. Post a before and after graph, from 120hz down to however low you can go. 16hz or whatever.
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Jul 28, 2014 18:42
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jonathan posted:Post a before and after graph, from 120hz down to however low you can go. 16hz or whatever. Captured with? I don't have a mic. (And  at 16hz, I go down to maybe 25, 30 more likely. Small subs, small room)
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Jul 28, 2014 23:05
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Going to run out and pick up an entry level receiver and speakers tomorrow. My question what is the best way to connect my PC to it? I have a multi monitor setup which includes my TV but that is not the primary display, just there mainly for steam big picture. I have SPDIF and HDMI on the motherboard available as well as the traditional PC inputs. Few things I've read seem to indicate SPDIF is inferior to HDMI, seems almost wasteful to use HDMI just for audio but would that be my best choice?
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Jul 29, 2014 03:25
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codo27 posted:Going to run out and pick up an entry level receiver and speakers tomorrow. My question what is the best way to connect my PC to it? I have a multi monitor setup which includes my TV but that is not the primary display, just there mainly for steam big picture. I have SPDIF and HDMI on the motherboard available as well as the traditional PC inputs. Few things I've read seem to indicate SPDIF is inferior to HDMI, seems almost wasteful to use HDMI just for audio but would that be my best choice? Sound quality wise, you won't notice any difference between HDMI and SPDIF. The reason HDMI is preferable is that the receiver will separate the audio and video through HDMI. It goes like this: Computer ----(HDMI)----> Receiver -----(HDMI)----> Monitor That way, if you hook another HDMI device (game console, cable box, Roku, etc.) up to the same receiver, you can switch between inputs easily. If you don't want to do this for whatever reason, SPDIF would work fine.
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Jul 29, 2014 04:27
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Okay that sounds good. Receiver has 4 inputs, I have my PC, cable receiver, BD player and girlfriends xbox. Also I mostly use the tv to stream stuff off my NAS through the built in player, will it be able to handle that as well or will I have to run something back out from the TV to the receiver for that?
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Jul 29, 2014 04:43
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KillHour posted:Sound quality wise, you won't notice any difference between HDMI and SPDIF. The reason HDMI is preferable is that the receiver will separate the audio and video through HDMI. HDMI is superior to SPDIF because it will carry all the full-fat surround sound formats, whereas SPDIF is only meant for stereo sound and will only carry the most basic Dolby 5.1 in a pinch.
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Jul 29, 2014 06:46
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KozmoNaut posted:HDMI is superior to SPDIF because it will carry all the full-fat surround sound formats, whereas SPDIF is only meant for stereo sound and will only carry the most basic Dolby 5.1 in a pinch. True. I just didn't want to imply that sound through SPDIF would be inherently lower quality. I generally use PCM, anyways. codo27 posted:Okay that sounds good. Receiver has 4 inputs, I have my PC, cable receiver, BD player and girlfriends xbox. Also I mostly use the tv to stream stuff off my NAS through the built in player, will it be able to handle that as well or will I have to run something back out from the TV to the receiver for that? If your receiver and TV both support ARC (Audio Return Channel), you should be set.
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Jul 29, 2014 14:10
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KozmoNaut posted:Captured with? I don't have a mic. I thought you meant you did a frequency sweep with measurent. If you have a calibration mic and a soundcard it will plug into on a laptop you could use REW and get a decent measurement.
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Jul 30, 2014 09:09
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jonathan posted:I thought you meant you did a frequency sweep with measurent. If you have a calibration mic and a soundcard it will plug into on a laptop you could use REW and get a decent measurement. Nah, I just did it by ear. I have the RTA mic that came with the driverack, I could use that, but I think it needs phantom power. Maybe I could just do an RTA sweep and see what it says.
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Jul 30, 2014 11:02
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Just looking for some recommendations for a USB DAC for my PC/Mac (dual boot), I don't want to spend an absolute fortune but am happy to pay more for some tangible improvement over a cheep DAC. It's to connect the computer to my Rotel RA-04.
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Jul 31, 2014 07:37
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GhostSeven posted:Just looking for some recommendations for a USB DAC for my PC/Mac (dual boot), I don't want to spend an absolute fortune but am happy to pay more for some tangible improvement over a cheep DAC. It's to connect the computer to my Rotel RA-04. If I had to get a new one to replace my Pro-Ject DAC, I'd either get another from Pro-Ject or more likely ODAC from JDS Labs: http://www.jdslabs.com/products/46/standalone-odac/
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Jul 31, 2014 08:01
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Hob_Gadling posted:If I had to get a new one to replace my Pro-Ject DAC, I'd either get another from Pro-Ject or more likely ODAC from JDS Labs: Thanks shall look into the JDS Labs one looks nice 
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Jul 31, 2014 15:11
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I'm out of my depth trying to size an amplifier for an old set of speakers, or even Googling proper information about the speakers. This makes sense since they're stamped "Made in the Federal Republic of Germany - West Germany," I guess. It's a set of Canton Plus 5 bookshelf speakers. Here's the info off the back label: Impedance: 4 Ohm Rec. Ampl. Impedance: 4 .... 8 Ohm DIN Power Handling: 40 Watt Music Power Handling: 70 Watt Every "How to pick an amplifier" guide I've seen has been flatly contradicted by every other one and/or relies on Watt RMS, which I'm not sure these numbers are.
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Aug 1, 2014 22:33
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Factory Factory posted:It's a set of Canton Plus 5 bookshelf speakers. Here's the info off the back label: Do you mean Canton Plus S? Apparently they're relatively bright. You might want to try Marantz 2200 series amps (which is my recommendation, f. ex. 2230 isn't too expensive on Ebay) or some tube amp if you can deal with their peculiarities (which I really, really don't recommend unless you know what you're getting into). If you just want a music system with a modern amp for a relatively low price, try entry level models from Marantz or NAD. If they really are Canton Plus 5, I have no idea. Hob_Gadling fucked around with this message at 22:54 on Aug 1, 2014 |
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Aug 1, 2014 22:42
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How about that, it is an "S" rather than a "5". I do want a cheap, modern system, mostly because of "cheap" and also because I don't have the space for the giant receiver that was previously powering these things but is unavailable to me to check specs because it's packed in a box at the back of a storage locker. So, specs on the Marantz 2230 say it does 30W per channel RMS. Is that the power I should shoot for? Like, picking one at random, one of these NAD D 3020 whatsits? Oh wait holy poo poo that thing's $500. Even the 2230 is a couple hundred bucks on eBay. What the hell kind of speakers do I have my hands on to warrant this kind of equipment?
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Aug 1, 2014 22:59
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Hob_Gadling posted:Do you mean Canton Plus S? Is he going to be able to drive 4 ohm speakers, even bookshelves, with a low wattage amp?
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Aug 1, 2014 23:03
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Sounds like you want a cheap T class amp. They are small and inexpensive. I think you're worrying too much about pairing amp and speaker power ratings. Just get something like the Lepai Tripath TA2020 and call it a day. It will provide plenty of power for normal listening volumes. The biggest thing you want to worry about is actually underpowering your speakers, because you risk sending a clipped audio signal which will ruin them.
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Aug 1, 2014 23:06
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Factory Factory posted:Even the 2230 is a couple hundred bucks on eBay. What the hell kind of speakers do I have my hands on to warrant this kind of equipment? Relatively power hungry. Absolutely no way can you get them running satisfactorily with a T-amp. Tell you what, why don't you tell us what you want to listen to (CD, LP, digital music, something else?) and whats your budget? It's easier to figure something out with that info. There are cheap, powerful amps if you want those. Usually when people get old speakers they want to match them with period-suitable amps, so I went with that out of habit.
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Aug 1, 2014 23:10
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Blah. The full story is that I had to sell a pair of M-Audio AV-40s (hooked up to a PC for Blu-ray audio and high-bitrate CD rips). I was blissfully happy with them, but it'll be a long time before I can afford to replace them because I am the brokest-rear end of students. I was just hoping I could repurpose these speakers I had at much less cost than getting another pair of entry monitors. It sounds like that plan is not feasible and I should just huck these things onto eBay, as well as the receiver when I can dig it out.
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Aug 1, 2014 23:14
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Factory Factory posted:It sounds like that plan is not feasible and I should just huck these things onto eBay, as well as the receiver when I can dig it out. Absolutely not needed, the recommendations were way off. My bad. You could try looking up Sony STR-DE series stereo receivers. I owned one of those for a decade, very durable piece. They go for $30-40 used on Ebay. Might be less on your local flea market/garage sale/Craigslist. Very common, very durable and has certainly enough power to run those speakers.
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Aug 1, 2014 23:17
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Hm, some of those Sony receivers look incredibly useful, though they are still pretty large. I'm also getting the idea that it takes a lot of electricity to run a speaker, and I hadn't anticipated that cost-wise. I'm so used to dealing with computers and tablets and whatnot where you can do crazy things in less than 10W that it just hadn't occurred to me. I'll sleep on the receiver, I guess. Thanks for the recommendations.
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Aug 2, 2014 02:33
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Factory Factory posted:Hm, some of those Sony receivers look incredibly useful, though they are still pretty large. I'm also getting the idea that it takes a lot of electricity to run a speaker, and I hadn't anticipated that cost-wise. I'm so used to dealing with computers and tablets and whatnot where you can do crazy things in less than 10W that it just hadn't occurred to me. Big speakers are actually more efficient than small speakers. Your speakers can produce 87.2dB SPL at 1 meter from a single watt, which is pretty average for a large speaker. The main reason you want an amp that can provide more power than you need is because that will ensure a clean signal. Amps pushed to their limit clip and damage speakers. For reference, I have this stereo receiver (which is 50w per channel) hooked up to a pair of speakers with similar sensitivity/impedance, and I'm not sure if hearing damage or speaker damage would happen first if I cranked it all the way up. Edit: Since your only source is a computer, you don't need a receiver per-se. You could use a power amplifier, instead. Something like this Rolls would work nicely: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rolls-MA2355-Rack-Mounted-Stereo-Mixer-Amplifier-/291197708889?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43ccbc6a59 Double Edit: I've run my speakers off a cheap T-Amp before, so it definitely can be done. I'd be worried about a clipped signal damaging them, though. KillHour fucked around with this message at 03:17 on Aug 2, 2014 |
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Aug 2, 2014 02:48
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BANME.sh posted:The biggest thing you want to worry about is actually underpowering your speakers, because you risk sending a clipped audio signal which will ruin them. KillHour posted:Amps pushed to their limit clip and damage speakers. It's not a hard fast fact that underpowering speakers will damage them: http://www.bcae1.com/2ltlpwr.htm What happens when an amp starts clipping is that it approaches square wave output. A square wave makes an amp output 1.1414 times more power than with the equivalent sine wave. Speaker units are cooled by their own movement, but only move the same amount if it's a square or sine wave, so more heat needs to be dissipated with the same movement, which can lead to overheating. Square waves in themselves do not harm speakers, otherwise music with cheap/old synths would be blowing speakers left and right. If your speakers' power handling is more than 4-5 times the output of your amp, it is basically impossible to harm the speakers. It will sound like absolute poo poo, but no damage will be done. For a long time, I used a 2x35W amplifier with a pair of speakers rated for 200W, and I played them loud on a regular basis, with no harm done. That said, there's nothing wrong with having a bit of reserve power available.
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Aug 2, 2014 09:58
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Perhaps this should go elsewhere, but I'm running out of width in my home theater alcove thing that came with the house. My projector screen covers it, but I have sub woofers and a center channel that sit below the screen and are in the alcove. i'm putting some cabinets in the alcove and now I can no longer fit my center channel. My options are to cut the cabinets skinnier, but thats a tight squeeze and won't allow for proper acoustic foam treatment, or widen the alcove to the width of the screen. The front corners of the alcove have two 2x4's each. I'm guessing that this is for alcove structure only and not load bearing? Is there an easy way to check? I'd rather just blow out the sides, re frame, and drywall as this opens my options up a ton for future upgrades.
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Aug 8, 2014 03:50
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Have you seen my apex seals? I seem to have lost them.
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Is there a reason you can't just put your speakers behind the screen?
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Aug 8, 2014 12:16
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Is this thing a good deal? http://sellout.woot.com/offers/pinnacle-3-ele-center-channel-speaker-1?ref=cnt_wp_2_38 I haven't been looking for a center speaker but that discount is pretty compelling.
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Aug 8, 2014 13:37
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there wasn't a better thread in here or sh/sc, so... I'm running on some AKG k240s for my pc right now, and I find them pretty quiet. No other issue, just kinda low volume, even if I boost the OS volume all the way, then boost the iTunes EQ all the way as well. I know they can go louder, because they do when run through my TV. So, short of buying an amp for them (I would, but I am too poor - infact, I have no money) what software side solutions are there for my issue? Are there any recommended sound control programs that works over other programs? So like, it would boost iTunes, Spotify, videos, whatever.
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Aug 10, 2014 18:30
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Another Person posted:Are there any recommended sound control programs that works over other programs? I recommend checking the goodwills and craigslists of this world for some vintage type amp for little money. You could potentially score a free one that is broken in such a way that it still does headphones fine while it won't work for speakers on both channels or something. Any old hifi all in one thing with a line in and headphone out would work as well. People wanting to be rid of those with non functioning cassette players and/or cd player.
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Aug 10, 2014 20:13
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Flipperwaldt posted:There are none in Windows, 'cause that's not how poo poo works on there. It cannot exist. Either the driver for the audio chip offers you possibilities or the audio playback program you're using; there's no feasible way to squeeze anything in between. OSX, I have no idea, but I'm told audio routing is more flexible there. Ah, my luck is screwed then. I have an old amp sat next to my computer, but I don't think there is a cable I could use to e;  this is what I have to work with, not sure I have anything compatible with it e2: clear up, I can run my headphones to it fine, I can't run my PC to it. I am an idiot who fails comprehension Another Person fucked around with this message at 21:35 on Aug 10, 2014 |
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Aug 10, 2014 21:19
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Another Person posted:e2: clear up, I can run my headphones to it fine, I can't run my PC to it. I am an idiot who fails comprehension 3,5mm to RCA cable wouldn't work? Why not?
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Aug 10, 2014 22:08
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Hob_Gadling posted:3,5mm to RCA cable wouldn't work? Why not? No, I mean I do not know how to run my PC into the amp. Like, I don't know what cable I would buy to connect the PC to that, nor do I know where I would even get one these days. Those are all but one of the ports on the amp, the headphone port is on the front. The headphones can plug into it just fine, I have multiple jacks just lying around.
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Aug 10, 2014 22:11
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Another Person posted:No, I mean I do not know how to run my PC into the amp. Oh, right. Get one of these ($0,79 @ Monoprice):  Connect PC sound card to any pair of RCA inputs in the amp except Phono In. Turn the amp to correct channel and you're set. If you have a pair of speakers to go with the set, you can connect those too. What model is the amp, by the way? Can't quite make it out of the pic you posted. Hob_Gadling fucked around with this message at 22:23 on Aug 10, 2014 |
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Aug 10, 2014 22:19
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Technics SA-110L, I think. It is ancient by the terms of my life, probably 10 years or more older than me. I just inherited it from someone else who inherited it. If there is some more useful serial number, afraid I can't check it right now. It took a hell of a lot of fuss to put it back without breaking my turntable by accident, and I needed another person to help with that. It is quite beaten already, and when all set up one speaker never works with it. I've replaced the speakers, and it is definitely the amp at fault. e; yup, that model no. brings up the right amp on ebay Another Person fucked around with this message at 22:38 on Aug 10, 2014 |
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Aug 10, 2014 22:34
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KillHour posted:Is there a reason you can't just put your speakers behind the screen? Here is what I've currently got going. I've removed the speaker grill and added the cabinets, ready for drawers.:  Not a brony. My screen is not acoustically transparent. If I were to move the subs directly behind the screen, wouldn't the screen flutter? I also assume I'd have to build a sturdy shelf and foam it up. I know jonathan posted some examples for transparent screens. If I can get away with moving the subs up, I'd do it as I don't really want to deal with drywall work.
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Aug 11, 2014 00:49
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Vintage amps are gonna have a hell of a lot of noise coming from the headphone jack, even with nothing on the input. Might not be noticeable during louder music but definitely during soft stuff. S/N ratios weren't that good back then.
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Aug 11, 2014 03:26
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So once again, I've been trying to get more out of the position of my sub than I currently do. Here is an extremely lovely diagram of my room that I drew on paper cause gently caress paint.  (Larger: http://i.imgur.com/gBHxClg.jpg)The sub is in the bottom right corner, and the listening area is the couch in the middle. However, most of the bass goes to the far opposite corners of the room where the dresser and computer desk are. Since it is a 15" sub, there isn't much other place I could put it. Any suggestions? Also open to completely rearranging stuff. BabyRyoga fucked around with this message at 01:32 on Aug 13, 2014 |
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Aug 13, 2014 01:28
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